Island life and tings

The Bahamas National Trust installed new signs around Conception Island to help cruisers enjoy the island, stay safe and respect the wildlife. The three moorings in West Bay have been reset and inspected. Boats over 100 feet are strongly encouraged to use these moorings; the southernmost mooring is a 3,000-pound Danforth for vessels up to 200 feet.

Sea Turtle Network

Sea turtle nesting season runs roughly from April to September. Reports of nesting activity are especially important in The Bahamas because there are so many nesting beaches scattered throughout the islands and only a few people regularly monitor them. The Department of Marine Resources has partnered with several non-governmental organizations (NGO) to form the Sea Turtle Network, the purpose of which is to reduce the illegal harvest of sea turtles that continues despite the complete ban in 2009. The Network also provides an important means of disseminating information and receiving important sea turtle observations. All cruisers are asked to report sightings of mating or nesting turtles, injured turtles, turtles found with tags, and any violations of the ban on the harvest of turtles. Reports can be made on Facebook: Bahamas Sea Turtle Network.

The Island School

Parents and grandparents interested in a rewarding experience for high school students should visit the Island School in South Eleuthera. The school and its partner, the Cape Eleuthera Institute, are located within walking distance of the Cape Eleuthera Marina.
Founded by Chris Maxey, the Island School offers full semester programs for about 50 students and offers special scholarships for Bahamians. The organization also runs a middle school in Deep Creek for local children. Spend time investigating the school’s extraordinary opportunities at islandschool.org.
The Cape Eleuthera Institute is a research facility where senior scientists conduct important oceanographic research and involve the Island School students in their projects, including ongoing studies of sharks, rays, sea turtles, lionfish, conch, and bonefish.

Talkin’ Bahamian

The Bahamas’ linguistic treasures are part of a rich culture. Here are a few of our island-lingo favorites we’ve learned over the years:
• Day clean: first light, dawn
• Me-one/you-one: by myself. “Who sailed here with you?” “Nobody. Just me-one.”
• I ain’ know, you know: answer to any question with an unknown answer.
• God spare life: answer to remarks like “See you tomorrow.”
• Done reach: has arrived, “The mailboat done reach.”
• One time ago: sometime in the past
• Tief: steal, “Someone done tief ma boat last night.”
• Owned: used with the name of the owner, “That Pam-owned car.”
• Next: another, “You want a next beer?”
• Tingum: all-purpose designation of an object the listener is supposed to know. “Fetch me another tingum.”
More Talkin’ Bahamian by Patricia Glinton-Meicholas has an excellent collection of words and phrases with good explanations of meanings and usage. Glinton-Meicholas’ How to Be a True-True Bahamian explains much of the context of these gems.

Stolen dinghies

Dinghy theft continues to rise throughout The Bahamas. There is no absolute way to prevent your dinghy from being stolen, but basic seaman’s preparedness may surely help especially as the season of thunderstorms and hurricanes is upon us. At the end of the day’s activities it is good practice to secure the boat for the night and ensure that all equipment is stowed, anchor is holding, dinghy is on deck, and so on. Be ready to react quickly to surprises that may come in the night. If you tow a larger center console boat, invest in an alarm/tracking system such as the SeaTrax II from AtlasTrax (atlastrax.com). To report theft and other crimes to the Bahamian Police, dial 911 or 919.

Dean’s Blue Hole

Dean’s Blue Hole just north of Clarence Town, Long Island, is one of the most exciting natural features in The Bahamas and is now a major location for freediving training and competition. At the annual Vertical Blue competition on Saturday, April 30th, William Trubridge broke the world record in the free immersion category of freediving. More incredible is that on Monday he went down again and added another 2 meters to his record; he reached 124 meters on a single breath lasting 4 minutes 34 seconds.
NOTE: Freediving to extraordinary depths is dangerous and should not be practiced without considerable instruction and extensive safety precautions. verticalblue.net

Navigation and safety

As everyone knows we are now well into hurricane season and the season of severe thunderstorms and water spouts. Be extra careful when selecting your anchorages as sudden squalls with shifting winds can ruin more than a good night’s sleep. Choose marinas that have good protection, always keep a short list of hurricane holes on hand, and make sure that you pay close attention to forecasts to access one of these holes in plenty of time if need be. Be sure to call these protected marinas well in advance as many marinas do not allow boats at their docks if there is a hurricane threat.
Remember how much trouble it was for meteorologists to predict Hurricane Joaquin last year? That hurricane was expected to be a category 1-2 but quickly became a category 3-5 and caused as much or more devastation than many memorable hurricanes. As the English proverb goes, “Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.”

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine July 2016

Hurricane Joaquin

Hurricane Joaquin was the dominant event this fall in The Bahamas. The brutal, slow-moving hurricane suddenly went from a category one near Mayaguana to a category four and sat over Crooked and Acklins islands for two days with destructive winds and torrential rains. Joaquin then caused major damage in Long Island, Rum Cay and San Salvador as it moved west, north and northeast out of the region. But as they say in The Bahamas, “Thank God for life,” as the storm did not claim a soul. There are hundreds of stories of heroic action and bravery and later of incredible generosity. One family in Crooked Island had to leave their house through a window as it became flooded to the ceiling. Michael Carroll was able to free one of his boats from its trailer, then he and his family spent 19 hours in the boat tied in the lee of his house.

The long rebuilding of the southern islands has begun, and their citizens are showing amazing resilience and determination.

Recovery

Some areas are recovering from Joaquin a lot faster than others. In Long Island, Stella Maris Resort Club & Marina opened soon after Joaquin’s passage. Flying Fish Marina reported some slight damage to its docks yet was expected to be fully operative within weeks of the hurricane’s landfall. Cape Santa Maria Beach Resort on the north tip of the island had a bit of beach erosion but is completely open. Long Island Petroleum is pumping fuel in Salt Pond. Services in Salt Pond will be fairly normal by Christmas though many of their fishing boats were destroyed.

In San Salvador, Club Med and Riding Rock Resort & Marina are working on repairs. Club Med hopes to be open by December 20^th. Rum Cay’s recovery efforts are a bit slower as the loss of government docks hampered equipment delivery.

Crooked Island, Acklins and Long Cay are in various stages of reconstruction, but they sustained the most damage and full recovery will take time. Be sure to be full of fuel, water and supplies if you sail to Rum Cay and the southeast islands. Phone lines are expected to be back in service so call ahead to your destination.

A house near Mangrove Bush, Long Island, is in dire need of repairs post Joaquin.

Giving a hand

December is known as a season for giving, so what can the cruising community do to help the southern islands? The best answer is to carry on and bring business to the islands. Cruise down to the southeast and purchase groceries and fuel where available. Eat ashore if there is a restaurant open. Hire a bonefish guide. If you want to get involved, look around to see where help is needed and ask the local people. Offer whatever skills you have, or simply start working alongside someone. Remember also that cash is good.

El Faro

There was loss of life at sea—a reminder of nature’s wrath and the importance to be prepared for the worst. The 790-foot cargo ship El Faro (“the lighthouse”) went down with all 33 crew members on board in an area near the southeastern Bahamas during Hurricane Joaquin’s passage. The nearly 40-year-old El Faro was on its regular run from Jacksonville, Florida, to San Juan, Puerto Rico, when it lost power and began taking on water in heavy seas. It is the worst cargo shipping disaster involving a U.S. flagged vessel in more than 30 years.

Navtours

A good charter company is operating crewed and bareboat charters out of Nassau, Staniel Cay and Great Exuma. Navtours is a French Canadian company with years of experience in the business, and they are the first to offer extensive services in the Exumas. Skipper your own boat, or charter one with a captain, mate and cook.

Charter companies have been operating in the Sea of Abaco for years because it is a safe, enclosed area where visitors can cruise for weeks and anchor in a different location every night. The Exumas are more difficult because there are fewer good harbors in westerly winds, but this island chain is definitely worth it with the support of a good charter company. With the variety of departure and return locations and with its backup and safety services, Navtours provides a wonderful way to enjoy the finest cruising in the Bahamian region. navtours.com

Crewed or bareboat charters are now available in the Exumas with Navtours.

Navigation notes:

There were few aids to navigation that could have been affected by Hurricane Joaquin in the southeast islands none of which are essential. Proceed with caution and call ahead to marinas before making way to storm affected areas.

by Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine, December 2015

Preacher’s Cave brings history to life

Bahamian history buffs must visit Preacher’s Cave in North Eleuthera. Standing inside the cave leads you to imagine the Eleutheran Adventurers who were shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone in 1648 and suffered through their early years with few supplies in a location where agriculture and raising livestock were a major challenge. The Adventurers built the first permanent settlements in The Bahamas. They were tough, Christian souls whose descendants in Harbour Island, Spanish Wells and Governor’s Harbour have maintained their traditions of hard work and charity. Preacher’s Cave is in the portfolio of the Antiquities, Monuments & Museums Corporation and can be reached by paved road or by a short walk from the beach. For added knowledge, the most comprehensive history of The Bahamas is probably Islanders in the Stream by Michael Craton and Gail Saunders.

Safety Steps

Cruisers in The Bahamas—and in any foreign waters for that matter—should follow these precautions to ensure safety and peace of mind during your voyage:

• Keep your boat in a marina with good security or anchor near other boats.

• Keep your dinghy out of the water.

• Never walk more than one city block at night. Jitneys are okay in the day but taxis are necessary after dark.

• Stay out of local night clubs and bars. The large restaurants, hotels and casinos are safe.

• Teenagers and young adults should be especially careful because they are frequently targeted.

• Ask dockmasters and hotel managers for local advice.

New VAT Tax

The primary problem with the VAT tax is visceral (no one likes taxes) but the VAT tax is an honest attempt to make the tax system more efficient and ultimately more fair. In the past most government revenues have been from import duties and tourist taxes. The Bahamian government estimated that it was only collecting about 50 percent of import duties due to cheating, graft and cumbersome administration.

The VAT tax of 7.5 percent will be levied on almost all goods and services, but many import duties will be reduced to compensate for some of this new tax burden. Ultimately, Bahamian citizens and tourists will pay more tax, but the intention is to keep the increase low. Most businesses are properly set up to collect the VAT tax, but an adjustment period is expected.

When all is considered, The Bahamas is still a bargain. Most boats pay only $300 for a year of uninterrupted cruising, and most enter full of stores and fuel. Food is expensive but liquor is reasonable. Restaurants and marina prices are comparable to the United States and Canada, and anchoring is free. You are allowed a generous catch of fish, and, best of all, you are cruising in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Preacher’s Cave was a shelter and place of worship for the Eleutheran Adventurers.

Great Harbour Cay Marina

Great Harbour Cay Marina may be the best hurricane marina in The Bahamas, as it is located in a hole within a pond. For a simple residence with an excellent place to keep a boat and access to some of the best all-around fishing in The Bahamas you would do well to make a visit. Or for more luxurious options, purchase or build on the magnificent eastern shore.

Great Harbour Cay Marina has recently received a facelift, and work is still in progress. The docks have freshly painted pilings, and the Dockmaster’s office and the restrooms have been refurbished. The Pool Bar & Grill is open every day for lunch and supper. The Beach Bar on the eastern beach is a reasonable walk by road and an easy walk across the old golf course. The bar has a spectacular view, which is complemented by excellent food and service. Expect a DJ with lively music on holidays and special occasions.

The old golf course is minimally maintained by a group of winter residents for golfers wanting some fun and exercise. You may have to tee up your ball on the fairways, but you can play your way down to the Beach Bar and back. Ask at the marina if there are any locals playing the course. They always love the company.

Osprey

These magnificent raptors are doing well and are another environmental success story. Tagging studies have proven that many of the birds are Bahamian residents but some migrate from as far as New England.

Anchoring

Most boats these days use solid chain (with a snubber to prevent noise and shock) with their anchors. Cruisers might consider using only two or three fathoms of chain and a nylon rode with their primary anchor. Everyone should be anchoring in clear sand where chafe is not a problem, and nylon line provides plenty of strength and cushion. There is a surprising amount of marine life in the sand. Chain and nylon will keep you safe and reduce your impact on the environment

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating March 2015

Conception Island National Park adds convenient new yacht moorings.

To ensure that large yachts can safely moor in Conception Island National Park without damaging coral, the Bahamas National Trust (BNT) installed three moorings in West Bay. The outermost mooring is a 3,000-pound Navy Danforth-type anchor with 90′ of 11/8″ chain and a 2″ nylon pennant for vessels up to 200 feet LOA. The other two moorings are 1,000-pound Navy stockless anchors with 90′ of 11/8″ chain and 11⁄4″ nylon pennants for vessels up to 150 feet LOA. All moorings have large red buoys and small red pickup buoys. Vessels will need to run their own lines through the large thimbles on the ends of the pennants.

These moorings and their installation and maintenance are the generous gift of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Bagwell, longtime annual visitors and advocates of Conception Island. Jim Holman, Captain of the Bagwells’ 152-foot yacht CHANTAL MA VIE, and his crew made a special trip to Conception Island to set the moorings with a representative of BNT. Yachts are encouraged to use the moorings but to vacate mooring #1 if CHANTAL MA VIE arrives in Conception Island. GPS coordinates of the moorings:

#1 (3,000 lbs.): 23-51.091N/75-07.644W
#2 (1,000 lbs.): 23-51.109N/75-07.382W
#3 (1,000 lbs.): 23-51.099N/75-07.307W

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Bahamas Fisheries Regulations
Over the years there have been changes to Bahamian fisheries regulations but not as many changes as in unfounded rumors. Upon entering The Bahamas all foreign vessels should get a free fishing permit from Bahamian Customs. Customs should provide a copy of current regulations, but they usually do not have copies on hand. We recommend that you get the free fishrules app or go to breef.org for the latest fisheries regulations.

Fishrulesapp.com
This exciting free app is now available for Androids and iPhones. It provides fisheries regulations for the SoutheastU.S., the Gulf of Mexico and The Bahamas. This app also includes fishing guides and by using the GPS in your phone will tell you if you are in a marine protected area.

U.S., the Gulf of Mexico and The Bahamas. This app also includes fishing guides and by using the GPS in your phone will tell you if you are in a marine protected area.

The bag limits for foreign vessels are generous, so the penalty for exceeding the limits can be severe. Remember that the fisheries resources belong to the citizens of The Bahamas who work hard to ensure they maintain sustainable fisheries. Do not exceed the bag limits!

The current limits for foreign vessels with fisheries permits:
• Migratory species such as kingfish, dolphin (mahi mahi), tuna, and wahoo: 18 fish total per vessel at any time
• Conch: 6 per vessel at any time
• Crawfish (spiny lobster): 10 per vessel at any time
• Demersal species (grouper, snapper, etc.) 60 pounds or 20 fish per vessel at any time. The minimum size for grouper is 3 pounds.
• There is a total ban on sea turtles and sharks. All bonefish must be released in good condition.
• The closed season for Nassau Grouper is December, January and February and may be extended if necessary.

Bay Street Marina, Nassau
The Bay Street Marina is a major upgrade to yacht facilities and Nassau’s waterfront. Located just west of the western Paradise Island Bridge, the Bay Street Marina is a protected, full-service marina that is well managed and reasonably priced. There is 24-hour security with cameras, locked gates at the entry of each dock, and a guard dog at night.

The marina has 82 slips and can accommodate vessels up to 200′ with a 12′ draft. Marina Manager Peter Maury and Assistant Dockmaster Jacqueline Callender have many years of experience. The marina is located in front of the Green Parrot, the Harbourfront Lounge, and Luciano’s of Chicago— three restaurants that offer a wonderful variety. Luciano’s is one of the best restaurants in Nassau, but if you aren’t careful eating out may cost more than your dockage.

Also enjoy the free shuttle to Solomon’s Fresh Market to stock up on fresh food and supplies. Expect to pay $2.50 per foot or less depending on your length of stay. baystreetmarina.com

Mann Island, North Eleuthera
Brilanders have long used Mann Island—a beautiful, uninhabited cay just north of Harbour Island—for picnics and camping on holidays, especially in the summer. The southern beach is well protected and perfect for couples or families with children.

Recently the southern third of the island was donated to the Bahamas National Trust (BNT) and has become a national park. The BNT has cut footpaths through the bush for better access to the interior and ocean side. Few yachts anchor near Mann Island, but if you are careful there are several sheltered places to anchor in eight feet over a sandy bottom. Mann can be a wonderful day trip or an anchorage that offers a quiet respite from the hustle, constant wake and expense of Harbour Island.

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating February 2015

Bahamas websites, blogs and social networks keep cruisers connected.

.The Internet now offers safety, information and a sense of community to cruisers in The Bahamas. Many cruising websites provide timely maritime and local island information, as well as social announcements to keep cruisers in the know.

• Barometer Bob: barometerbob.org
• Bahamas Info Newsletter: bahamaislandsinfo.com
• I Love Hope Town: ilovehopetown.com
• Bahamas Chatter: chatter.explorercharts.com

There are also websites and blogs that enrich the Bahamian experience and make life more enjoyable, such as Rolling Harbour (rollingharbour.com). It features wildlife news and photos, a variety of useful links, lists of pertinent books, maps of Abaco, and more. The blog is informal and delightfully random, but it is a great place to gain a general knowledge of Bahamian wildlife on land and sea.

Cruisers will also want to check out the following websites and social media pages of these major conservation organizations to learn about their environment, educational programs, volunteer opportunities, and events. Cruisers are welcome to get involved in many activities.

• Bahamas National Trust: bnt.bs
• BREEF: breef.org
• Friends of the Environment: friendsoftheenvironment.org
• The Nature Conservancy: nature.org

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Salvage support is something cruisers hope to never need, but if you or someone near you needs to be salvaged or towed I recommend calling Overseas Salvage at (242) 355-2140 (overseassalvage.com) or R&B Boatyard at (242) 333-4462 (rbboatyard.com). These companies are equipped with experienced personnel, impressive equipment and can respond effectively. They will discuss pricing with you before getting underway.

Rum Cay is one of the beautiful islands in the southeast Bahamas and an excellent stop for those headed or returning from further south. The anchorage in Port Nelson is tenable in winds from NW-SE, though there is usually considerable surge causing the “Rum Cay Roll.” Sumner Point Marina provides excellent protection from all weather. In 2011, Hurricane Irene caused considerable damage to the south coast of Rum Cay and altered the natural movement of the sand filling much of the channel into the marina, but things are looking up. Sumner Point Marina is now under new management and reconstruction is expected to start this winter. In the meantime, some slips and facilities are available. For questions about facilities and for help of any kind in Rum Cay, call Bobby Little at (242) 525-0184.

The Bahamas National Trust (BNT) has established new mooring and anchoring fees for the Exuma Land and Sea Park and created a new membership category: Support Fleet Membership. Price varies with the size of your vessel, but the membership includes priority on the waiting list for moorings at Warderick Wells, two complimentary mooring nights to be used within one year, a BNT membership card, BNT newsletters, and a variety of BNT membership benefits. Membership also keeps you informed about BNT events, educational programs and conservation initiatives. Be assured that you will be investing in the sustainability of one of the finest cruising areas in the world.

French Leave Eleuthera is a new resort in Governor’s Harbour, with Harbour Village on the east side of the harbor. Harbour Village has a new dock with slips for two megayachts (up to 180′) with full services. There are also five megayacht moorings. Yachts staying at the docks or tied to the moorings will have access to all the resort facilities, including the pink sand French Leave Beach half a mile away on the ocean side of Eleuthera. The 1648 Bar and Grill located just south of the megayacht slips is open to the public. Reservations for the docks and moorings are strongly recommended. Governor’s Harbour is an historic town with a vibrant community that offers a full range of supplies and services. Be sure to visit the Anglican Church and the Haynes Library. frenchleaveresort.com

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating January 2015

Take care of sea grass and coral when you cruise and anchor in The Bahamas

The Bahamian government is currently drafting new regulations—that include severe penalties—to protect coral throughout the islands. All vessels, from yachts to cruise ships, will be liable for any damage they cause to sea grass beds when they anchor, run aground or discharge pollutants. Sea grass beds are more fragile than most people realize and are very important to benthic ecosystems. Turtle grass is the principal food for green turtles, and queen conch graze on algae that grow in the sea grass beds. Use moorings when available and anchor only in clear sand. Many national parks have moorings with more planned. The Elizabeth Harbour Conservation Partnership in Great Exuma is in the process of installing a number of snorkeling moorings in Elizabeth Harbour, and a few yacht owners have committed to installing large moorings in West Bay, Conception Island. elizabethharbourpartnership.org

Firearms

Cruisers in the Bahamas are allowed to retain firearms on board for their entire cruise, although Bahamas Customs insists that all firearms and ammunition be declared upon entry and listed on the vessel’s Cruising Permit. Failure to declare firearms is a serious breach of Bahamian law.

If cruisers plan to leave their boats unattended for more than a few days, it is a good idea to contact the local Customs or Police who can secure the firearms ashore in a locked government facility—a sensible precaution to prevent them from getting into the wrong hands. Cruisers can recover their firearms when they return.

Fuel in the Central Exumas

The increased number of boats and the closure of the fuel facilities in Samson Cay have made it difficult for the Staniel Cay Yacht Club to keep up with demand. This summer the club occasionally ran out of gas. As fuel shortages are not uncommon in the out-islands, it is prudent to stay topped off and call ahead to your next destination.

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Spanish Wells

Spanish Wells is becoming even more cruiser friendly. A new restaurant, The Shipyard, has one of the prime locations in The Bahamas—the very east end of Spanish Wells overlooking the water to Gun Point. The restaurant has a full-service bar and excellent food at fair prices. There is also a two-for-one drink special at Happy Hour. The restaurant is usually closed Monday and Tuesday.

Spanish Wells Yacht Haven marina is being completely rebuilt with a new restaurant and bar, and guesthouses scheduled to open in December. The marina remains open with good electrical power, water and Internet access at all slips. The docks are scheduled to be rebuilt in early 2015. Call Dockmaster Leroy Kelly on 16 VHF or (242) 333-4255.

These improvements make North Eleuthera even better as a cruising destination with a variety of places to visit, the peace and quiet of Royal Island, Meek’s Patch, and the anchorage off The Bluff, for example. Spanish Wells offers friendly citizens and full services and supplies, including mechanics, welders and R&B Boatyard (rbboatyard.com). Harbour Island is an easy run—a pilot is still very much advised—and is rightfully called the Nantucket of The Bahamas.

Conch

The queen conch (Strombus gigas) stocks in The Bahamas are in a dramatic decline. The Bahamas government, the Bahamas National Trust, commercial fishermen, and others are working hard to draft new regulations that will help rebuild the stocks throughout The Bahamas. Foreign cruisers are still allowed to take conch, but in respect of the conch’s decline cruisers might consider leaving the conch for the local fishermen and eating their conch at restaurants ashore. It’s a good way to support the local economy. (To learn more about this culturally important species, see Dee Carstarphen’s The Conch Book.)

Junkanoo

It’s not too late to consider celebrating Christmas and New Year’s in The Bahamas. Skip the usual presents and buy plane tickets for the family to join you. The beauty of The Bahamas, the friendship of the Bahamian people and the intimacy of your own boat will draw everyone in. Children from up north will be glad to know that Santa Claus puts pontoons on his sled when he heads for southern waters.

By Stephen Connett Southern Boating November 2014
Stevie Connett has been sailing in The Bahamas for several decades. For the last ten years Stevie and Barbara Crouchley have been cruising throughout the islands aboard FOXY LADY tagging sea turtles and working with the Education Department of the Bahamas National Trust.