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Category: DIY

DIYers you’ve landed in the right place! Our extensive DIY articles will help you tackle any project, big or small. Our expert writers provide comprehensive information to help you troubleshoot problems and work toward preventing future ones.

Outboard Motor Maintenance Fundamentals: Keep Your Engine Clean And Vibrant

Keep Your Outboard Motor Clean

You couldn’t imagine drinking the water your boat floats in. That’s exactly what your engine ingests with raw-water cooling: saltwater crystals, gritty freshwater, sand, or mud. Let’s not forget the microscopic organisms such as zebra mussels, barnacle larvae, or oyster spats. All this and more are pumped through your boat’s engine cooling system. Some of this may remain inside the system and should be flushed out. These are fundamentals to outboard motor maintenance.

Why Flush?

Engine cooling systems are defined in two different styles, open loop and closed loop. Open loop is usually used on outboard engines. The closed-loop cooling system is seen more on inboard engines using heat exchangers. 

Simply stated, an open-loop outboard motor pulls raw water up from the lower unit by using a rubber vane impeller pump. Next, the water is pumped up to the power head through the engine block. Finally, the raw water is discharged out through the exhaust system, usually flowing underwater through the hub of the propeller. A tattle tale side stream of water will also discharge above the waterline on the starboard side of the engine to confirm water flow. 

The raw water flows through the engine block to cool the power head, fuel pump, and exhaust system. Most engines have one or more thermostats to regulate the water flow and temperature in the engine block. A happy engine stays cool and is less likely to overheat when the raw-water cooling system flows smoothly. But remember, this raw water is full of minerals, salt, sand, dirt, and organisms. 

At the End of the Day…

Consider what happens when you put the boat away for the day. Maybe your next boat trip isn’t for another month. A lot is going on inside the raw-water cooling flow path in the engine. 

While the water drains out, it may still leave debris in the engine. That debris can grow salt crystals. All sorts of marine life may attach to the internal metal of the engine itself. A bit of sand might clog the thermostat preventing proper operation. All these concerns could cause the engine to run hotter temperatures than designed. Failure to flush can lead to a shorter engine life because of internal metal corrosion.

Outboard Motor Maintenance Tips

Outboard motorboats are often dry stored, either on a trailer, dry stack, or a lift behind the house. After a good day on the water, many boaters bring the boat home and do a lot of docking maneuvers. Reverse and forward and reverse again to land the boat at your dock or trailer. But look at the water as you aggressively reverse the engine. See the dirty water blowing forward? Your engine is ingesting that dirty water, stirred-up sand, and mud. Consider planning your docking further in advance to aim better at the landing dock. If you use reverse less, the water will be clearer and less agitated. Then you are not pulling up as much gritty water into the engine.

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Freshwater Flush 

When possible after each boat trip, flush the outboard motor cooling system with freshwater. Use the convenient garden hose connector on the port side of the outboard. Read the engine manual to learn the proper method and amount of time suggested to flush the motor. This is done on the trailer or lift without running the outboard motor. Many people try to do this while the engine is warm from running and the thermostat is open. However, the colder water temperature from the garden hose will cool and close the thermostat anyway. Then the freshwater flush will bypass the closed thermostat and flush the rest of the cooling system not including the raw-water pump in the lower unit.

A special motor flushing device clamps your garden hose to the lower unit of the outboard. These clamps are also known as earmuffs and are sold in most boat stores. Connect the garden hose, turn it on, and start the engine. The water flow will go through the raw-water pump to satisfy the engine cooling needs. Run it at a fast idle to achieve the power head temperature to open the thermostat and flush the engine system. 

Instead of the earmuffs, consider using a large bucket or small drum full of freshwater to submerge the raw-water intake port. A product called a flush bucket or flush bag is a slightly quieter option than the earmuffs. Seems like a good idea to have a collapsible water bucket that is easy to stow when you don’t need it. But be sure to carefully follow the instructions for use.

Final Outboard Motor Maintenance Tip: Salt-free, Please!

Part of regular engine flushing should also include a salt-dissolving product to remove the salt crystals from the engine cooling system. A product such as Salt Away with a mixing unit can be attached to the muffs and help flush out the salt and debris during the regular flush process. Connect the flushing attachment to the lower unit water intake area, turn on the garden hose to run water through the system, start the engine at idle and advance to a fast idle, then open the mixing unit to flow the solvent into the engine and run until completely flushed. Check the manual for recommended amount of time.

These easy flushing steps will keep your outboard in top shape and ready to go again next time. Follow your engine service manual for recommended service visits for water pump impeller and thermostat changes along with oil and gear case oil changes. 

-by Capt. Chris Caldwell

See What Happens With Boat Bottom Cleaning Efficiency

The Secret to Speed? A Spotless Boat Bottom

Below the waterline of your boat is one big target for sea creatures. These barnacles, sea grass, tube worms, and general slime can quickly grow into a fuzzy carpet that slows your glide. A clean boat bottom not only looks nicer but can be the difference in fuel and equipment efficiency. So what’s a boat owner to do?

Let’s start with clear terms to understand how speed is affected by a clean bottom. Miles Per Hour (mph) is more accurately known as your speed in knots. Miles Per Gallon (mpg) considers the amount of fuel burned to cruise at an optimum speed. It helps to understand what is optimum versus the speed that you desire. If you are lucky, this may be the same.

WOT is Wide Open Throttle, often wasting fuel and not necessarily getting the best mileage possible. Many boat owners will consider slowing a bit less than WOT to achieve better fuel economy. If you reduce the rpms a mere 200 or so, then you may slow about 1 knot. Does that really matter?

So what else can you do to make your boat slide across the water easier? You may think that since water is wet and slippery, how can we improve on that?

Hull Preparation 

The hull on planing boats starts with a V to cut through the waves. Then it flares out in the stern to a flatter concept. This allows the boat to get up on top of the water to go faster depending on the horsepower aboard. The hull design and horsepower contribute to the builder’s designed speed—at perfect conditions right from the factory. Now consider the condition of the hull itself. 

Dirt and slime create more resistance to that slippery water your boat is running through. The most pristine waters can foster marine growth. Barnacles are obvious, but what about algae or seaweed? Choose an anti-fouling paint that works well for the waters you call home port and lasts longer than the lower price alternative.

Barrier Coat and Anti-fouling Paint

When hauling the boat for seasonal bottom job cleaning, check the existing paint for wear and adhesion. Is it smooth or has the bottom of the boat been painted too many times without taking the old paint off entirely? If the paint shows too many moon craters or high and low spots, then the bottom may have to be blasted to remove everything down to the original gel coat. 

Now that your hull has been properly prepped, it’s time to apply a barrier coating and, finally, good anti-fouling paint. The decision of what type of paint to use is dependent on the local waters in which you plan to boat and the kind of sea creatures that grow in your area. Ask other boaters what anti-fouling paint they favor. Check with your local yard experts too. 

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More Than the Hull

Don’t forget that your running gear includes props, rudders, shafts, and trim tabs which all need protection from marine growth too. But here you will use a different coating than the hull anti-fouling paint. Think about friction of the water rushing under the hull which can wear off fresh marine growth. The friction on the rotating propellers is much greater than the hull and requires a different type of anti-fouling coating. 

An etching primer is followed by a fouling-release coating applied to the running gear to reduce the chances of marine growth attaching to the surface. If they do attach, the growth will slip away once the boat is underway. Proper prep includes having the running gear roughed-up with an 80 grit sander to remove all old paint and marine growth. Clean off any dust and oil before applying a two-part etching coating. The final clear coat is the magic that reduces marine growth from attaching.

Use It or Clean It

The best way to keep your hull clean is by driving away from your dock. But if you can’t find the time to keep those critters from settling in, then a diver can do a little maintenance in between. In addition to a gentle cleaning of the hull and running gear, a diver can also keep the depth gauge transducer free of marine growth. 

Underwater lights are attractive and can attract bait fish to the stern of the boat. Ask the diver to keep the lenses clean too.

Your bottom is clean, and the hull and running gear are properly prepped. Get the boat up on plane, feel the ride, and watch the SOG (Speed Over Ground) compared to the rpms and fuel consumption. Adjust your trim tabs, angle the boat across the wave action, and experiment with the rpms. A clean bottom will improve your speed efficiency, letting your boat perform as it was designed. It is now up to the helmsman to achieve best results. 

– by Chris Caldwell

Visit Captain Chris’ Website Here

 

Maintaining Boat Freshwater Systems: A Sure Way To Stay Cool

A Guide to Boat Freshwater System Maintenance

Keep it flowing fresh on deck.

When it’s HOT there’s only one thing that can cool you off better than a boat ride. So, let’s anchor, hop overboard, and take a dip in the glistening cool water. But before gathering your crew for your next adventure, you may want to check a few things in addition to the fuel and oil levels. Is your domestic water tank full, the water pump operational, and the aft-deck shower wand in working condition? That saltwater swim won’t be as much fun if you’re covered in sand and salt for the ride back to the dock. This is where boat freshwater systems come into play.

Domestic water pump adjustment

Anchor Washdown Waterworks

In addition to the aft-deck shower equipment, look at your bow for the anchor washdown pump. These pumps aboard may need a little attention, but it’s not much effort to make it all worthwhile. A quick check will ensure that the sea cock is open for water to flow easily to the anchor washdown pump. Then take a peek to see that the strainer is clear and the circuit breaker is turned on. 

Since the anchor washdown is usually a raw-water system, consider purchasing a dedicated hose for easy access. Don’t mix up your deck rinse hose with your white sanitary drinking hose or your drinking water may taste strange. I recommend dropping by the boat store and make up your own anchor washdown short hose system. Depending on the size of your boat, I believe a 10-foot hose with fittings on each end will do the job well. Too long and the hose could become a storage or tripping hazard while underway. Whatever hose you select, this is great for rinsing off the mud when weighing anchor.

Anchor bow deck wash down hose

Transom Shower

The aft deck or transom shower should be in working order because it is part of the boat’s domestic freshwater system. Galley and head sinks, personal shower, icemaker, and freshwater-assisted heads are all included in this system. But a quick spritz before you start your trip will confirm that you can rinse that salt away later after your cool dip overboard. Pull the shower wand out of the transom receptacle, check the fittings, the valves, and be sure that the hose will pull out to its full length. Many times, we see the shower hose in the lazarette snagged on other items such as spare dock lines or fenders that were jammed into this tight space. 

Transom Shower

Now you should have a toasty warm, freshwater shower ready to use when you climb aboard after your swim. If your boat is equipped with an accessory engine coolant heating loop connected to the water heater, check the thermostatic tempering valve. Confirm it does not provide extremely hot water that may scald you or your guests. Everyone will delight when you show them how to glisten without a briny bath. Most aft shower equipment tucks neatly away inside a sleek cover waiting for your next adventure. But you might want to find a better hiding place for your boat keys.

Boat Freshwater Systems: Safety First and the Fun Follows 

Before anyone hops overboard, trail a floating safety line behind the boat for your swimmers to hold onto. Remember to fly the Diver Down flag if you plan to snorkel or SCUBA. Visibility of the Diver Down flag is important to warn other boaters you have divers or snorkelers in the water. And now, when your guests come out of the cool, salty water, you are ready with a great transom shower to rinse off. All systems are go for another fun way to cool off on the water. Keep it flowing…fresh on deck! 

-by Chris Caldwell

Trim Tab Maintenance Guide: Ensuring a Ride You’ll Love

Take care of the systems on board for a smooth ride.

Today’s trim tabs are not the trim tabs from your childhood boating memories. They do a whole lot more to make your cruise more comfortable and fuel efficient while on plane. But you can’t just set it and forget it. There are still some trim tab maintenance issues to consider.

Traditional Trim Tabs

Traditional trim tabs use stainless steel flat planes called tabs on the transom. The actuators adjust the tabs up and down to counteract with the bow up or bow down. In fact, that is how the control panel is marked, bow up or bow down. Years ago, many electrohydraulic trim tab designs converted to an all-electric option—no hydraulics to maintain.

Simple Maintenance Begins With Proper Set-up

Simple and easy DIY maintenance starts with just keeping your dock lines and fenders away from the hydraulic reservoir, consisting of the pump system and the connecting tubing. The total electric systems have the same concern—keep snags from disconnecting the control system wiring. 

Regular Maintenance Tips

Outside the boat is another simple maintenance item. Regardless of how your boat is stored—in a dry stack, on a trailer, or on the water—you should be able to see the condition of the anode, or zinc as it is sometimes called. These are generally pancake-style zincs and can easily be seen to judge effectiveness. Watch for zinc degradation and replace them along with other zincs on your boat: the shaft, strut, or outboard lower unit.  

(See anode installation images below)

Trim Trab Maintenance: Tab Positions

Another area to maintain is the actuator ram rod or stainless steel piston push rod that deploys the tab and retracts it. The major preventive maintenance tip is to retract the rod mechanism after daily use. If the piston push rod is left extended in the water, then marine creatures may attach to the unprotected rod. This could cause the oil seal to wear and leak oil into the sea or water into the actuator mechanism.

Most important to remember, when fishing from astern you may run the boat backward. So be sure to retract or raise the tabs UP or the reverse motion may break off the tab. I have seen many sportfishing boats install a homemade design of stainless cables to prevent overextension and breaking the tabs off. Some tabs even have sacrificial plastic shear pins to avoid pulling the actuator out of the transom.

Wow…that’s a lot to remember.

Safety cabled to prevent over-extending while in reverse chasing a fish

Do New Trim Tab Systems Require Different Maintenance?

Evolution

Just like most everything else in boating, trim tabs have evolved and become smart. The traditional helm control panel may be augmented with a smart design that will remember the trim you set for the boat and can automatically adjust for changes in vessel speed and wave direction. This change will keep the boat in trim and the bow down. Be aware of the location for these automated sensors and make sure to keep objects away from the smart sensor and wiring.

Maintenance is virtually the same for these evolved systems.

Revolution – Rotary Actuator

Enter the modern age of trim tabs and vessel stabilizers. Instead of using the traditional stainless steel planes or tabs at the transom, there are two new concepts creating a revolution in our boating world. The rotary actuator is a polymer design which acts as a trim tab and vessel stabilizer. The function of this unit is the rotary actuator spinning that can deploy and retract the scoop making 100 adjustments per second. Because of this speed, it also provides vessel stabilization.

Sacrificial shear pin on actuator

How To Maintain Them

Maintenance is easy. If the boat is stored out of the water, there is almost no maintenance. Just keep the smart system clear of any fenders or dock lines that may snag on the installation. If the boat is wet-slipped, keep an eye on the rotary actuator. Wipe off any sea life with a deck brush whenever possible. 

Revolution – Interceptor Design

A different revolutionary innovation is the interceptor design. With all submerged components made of a polymer, this does not have any moving metal parts to get wet. So, no anode protection is required. This design acts like a guillotine device with a polymer blade that actuates vertically perpendicular to earth and intercepts the water flow beneath the boat and transom. This provides the lift required for trimming the boat stern up and bow down. When cruising faster, it also performs a stabilizing effect. 

A smart sensor system corrects for vessel trim and stability. The blades act quickly—1.5 seconds deployment and then another 1.5 seconds to retract. If the boat is left in the water, use anti-fouling paint on the polymer housing to prevent marine growth. 

Interceptor Blade stuck in ‘deployed’ because barnacles crusted over the blade

Trim Tab Maintenance Takeaways

DIY maintenance starts with a visual inspection. Check the equipment each time you use it. Take action if the moving parts are challenged by sea life or anode degradation. When replacing an anode, be sure to use a wire brush to clean up the contact area for best metal to metal contact. Some trim tab devices may be painted with anti-fouling paint, but keep the anode clean for better service. Traditional. Evolution. Revolution. Take care of whichever systems you have aboard, and you will be rewarded with a smooth ride. 

-by Chris Caldwell

Life Raft Readiness: A Comprehensive Maintenance and Inspection Guide

Ready to Launch

Life raft inspections and stowage

Like bear pepper spray and supplies for the zombie apocalypse, life rafts are purchased in hope that they’ll never be needed. Even so, they’re expected to operate flawlessly in an emergency, despite minimal maintenance and constant exposure to the harsh marine environment. Here’s how to keep your life raft ready, willing, and able.

Life Raft Essentials

Valise rafts come packaged in a soft, flexible case designed for storage belowdecks. Canister rafts are contained within a rigid canister for mounting on deck.

The valise style raft is popular due to its greater compactness, lighter weight, and the additional protection offered by stowing it below. This keeps the decks clear and the raft guarded from weather and theft. 

Belowdecks storage on smaller vessels can be problematic, however, as many lack sufficient space near the companionway to stow a bulky raft without impeding the normal flow of traffic. Another downside is the need to lug the raft on deck to deploy, as rafts are heavy and may be too much for smaller crewmembers to handle.

While a valise life raft can be temporarily stored abovedecks during offshore passages for easier deployment, rafts permanently stowed above should be housed within a canister. Canisters (typically stored in molded fiberglass) offer greater protection from physical damage and the elements than a fabric valise, allowing them to be mounted at most any suitable location abovedecks.

The cons associated with canisters include being larger, heavier, and more expensive than a valise container. Unless the vessel has a dedicated life raft storage area, they also require the installation of a cradle or mount for the container, which means drilling holes into the deck or wherever the raft will be located.

Owner’s Inspection Checklist

First, look at the inspection date which will be prominently displayed on the exterior of the valise or canister. Inspection cycles vary depending on the manufacturer and factors, such as the type and age of the raft. 

Some life rafts require their first inspection after three years, while others may not need one until five years. For some rafts, the three-year interval may only apply to the first three years after purchase, after which they may require annual inspections. 

The fees for inspection and recertification also vary. For example, repacking the same life raft at six years will typically cost more than the first inspection at three years, as items inside (flares, batteries, food) will likely be expired and need replacing. 

Additional requirements, such as hydrostatic testing of the gas/inflation cylinder, can also add to the expense. Keep this in mind when purchasing a used raft, as the cost of that next inspection may well exceed the purchase price of that sweet find at the marine swap meet. 

Always have your life raft inspected at a service center authorized by the manufacturer and attend your inspection, if possible. This provides an opportunity to familiarize yourself with the raft, observe how it inflates, and verify what’s inside. 

Canister life rafts will have a hydrostatic release unit (HRU) mechanism, which automatically releases the raft at a pre-determined depth. The HRU will also have an expiration date and should be replaced if expired or close to expiration. 

Spotting Physical Wear and Tear

After checking inspection dates, the next thing to do is look for physical damage. Inspect valise cases and carrying handles for cuts, tears, rips, chafing, or degradation of the material due to age or UV exposure. Inspect canisters for damage such as dings, cracks, failure of the packing bands or sealing gasket, any of which could allow water entry. Although rafts are vacuum-packed prior to stowage in canisters (as well as valise cases), they should never be allowed to rest in water. If you find damage to the canister or suspect water entry, the raft will require immediate inspection.

Verify the cradle is free from damage, such as corrosion or broken welds. Make sure all raft mounts and cradles are secured with sufficiently robust mounting hardware that is properly tightened. Inspect the wire or webbing straps securing the canister to the cradle for problems, as well as the life raft painter line (the “rip cord” that activates the raft) and its connection point to the vessel.

Safety First: Important Considerations

While conducting the above inspections, take a moment to step back and view the entire life raft installation to spot potential problems. If mounted near the engine deck hatch, will you be able to reach and deploy the raft in the event of an engine fire or explosion? Will that spot beneath the boom allow the raft to deploy without becoming tangled in the rigging? Don’t be afraid to simulate a launch using the raft (or a cardboard box of similar size) to develop a launching procedure and ferret out problems beforehand—your life may depend on it.  

-by Frank Lanier

Stay Afloat with Easy Bilge Pump Maintenance: Tips and Tricks

Bilge Pump Maintenance

Keep the bilge area clean and test the pump to make sure it is working.

Dewatering device—that’s what the U.S. Coast Guard calls it. You may know it as a bilge pump. If you have a dinghy or a small rowboat, then you may have a plastic scoop to dewater your boat. Larger boats often have a battery-operated electrical bilge pump to remove water from the vessel. This is a key part of your boat’s safety equipment and should be understood for proper bilge pump maintenance. It’s all simple to do so let’s get started.

Where are the Bilge Pumps and How Do They Work?

A boat owner should know how many bilge pumps are aboard and where they are. A water level sensor will turn the pump on automatically to remove water from the vessel. On a 35-foot boat, there may be a dedicated bilge pump system in the lazarette, engine room, and forward bilge. 

The bilge pump should be directly wired to the vessel’s battery with an inline fuse. This will bypass the boat’s main battery on/off switch. When the boat batteries are turned off, the bilge pumps will still have power. Next, determine if the sensor has a mechanical float switch or an electronic design with no moving parts.

The Float Switch Water Level Sensor

Two key components of the bilge pump system are the water level sensor and the pump itself. If the pump sensor is a simple float switch, then it will rise with an increase in bilge water. As the float switch rises, it turns on the bilge pump motor. As the bilge water level drops, the float will lower and turn off the bilge pump motor. It’s a very simple operation if working as designed.  

Mom always said to keep your room clean, and the engine room is no exception. Be sure that the bilge area is free of old dirt and sludge. Grime in a wet bilge will affect the mobility of a float switch. 

If the float has restricted movement, you may have two concerns. First, the float may not rise to turn on the bilge pump. Second, if it does turn on and the water is deep enough, the float switch could get stuck in the on position. In this case, the bilge pump will continue to run…and run…and run until you notice and intervene. 

If the bilge pump motor runs dry for too long, it will overheat and seize. A float switch with a built-in safety cover will prevent obstructions from interfering with the float device. 

Electronic Sensors

Electronic water level sensors do not have any moving parts. They function when water covers BOTH points of the sensor unit and activates the bilge pump. Without moving parts, there is less concern for bilge debris blocking the float switch movement.

Submersible and Remote-mounted Pumps

Bilge pumps are made in two basic designs, submersible models and remote-mounted, self-priming diaphragm designs. The submersible models are the most common. They are mounted down in the bilge and the electric motor is cooled by the water around it. When the water is lowered, the pump is turned off. 

Remote-mounted bilge pumps are usually mounted somewhere higher in the bilge and are easily reached for maintenance. Since these are above the bilge water level, they must be self-priming to pull the bilge water up and then overboard. 

All bilge pumps should have a strainer to protect the pump. The submersible models have the strainer built into the mounting bracket. Remote bilge pumps should have an inline strainer to protect the pump. Check all strainers for debris, funk, hair, and other bilge dirt.

Where Did the Water Come From?

Where does the water come from that risks sinking the boat? There are a lot of possibilities, such as rainwater leaking in through deck hatches, rudder or propeller shaft seals including the dripless designs, air conditioner-cooling water pumps, and bad hoses or strainers in the engine raw-water intake cooling systems.

Methods of Checking Bilge Pump Operation

Many people test the bilge pump by turning the ON switch at the helm. This is a false indicator, only proving the motor runs. Set that switch to AUTO for automatic operation, not OFF. You can trick the sensor by lifting a float switch or using the test mode on an electric switch. These tests only prove the switch will turn ON the motor. 

The only way to prove the bilge pump system is in working order is to flood the bilge with freshwater. Then watch the level sensor turn on the motor and pump the water overboard. Use bilge soap from the boat store when testing the system to freshen up the bilges. Do not pump oily water overboard. Absorbent pads can help remove oily water.

Also, check your backup manual bilge pump. Larger boats may have a manual pump hidden in a cabinet somewhere. Find the handle and pump to confirm it will move water up and out from the bilge. And if your boat is equipped with a high-water alarm, this is an excellent time to check that feature too.

Best results? Confirming the bilge pumps work properly and a sparkling-clean bilge!

Capt. Chris Caldwell

Captains Chris & Alyse Caldwell are USCG 100-ton Masters and cruising coaches who offer personal boat training online or on board your boat anywhere. The Caldwells help build your cruising confidence with hands-on training, with their AskCaptainChris.com training videos, through two-day seminars filled with tons of tips for the boater who loves learning, and now remote learning. If you have additional questions for Captains Chris or Alyse, please email them at chris@captainchrisyachtservices.com.

A High Quality Water Heater Creates a Comfortable Boating Experience

Hot Water Aboard!

Easy ways to raise your boat’s water temperature.

At the end of a wonderful day aboard, a hot shower is like heaven. That hot shower is even better when you don’t have to lug your towel, clean clothes, shower shoes, soap, and shampoo all the way up the dock to the marina washroom. And that marina shower isn’t an option when you’re swinging on the hook at a secluded anchorage. Hot water aboard your boat is greatly appreciated for showers, washing dishes and clothing, or rinsing off the salt after a swim from the aft deck. There are many options for hot water, including a water heater, but you need to be aware of a few things first. 

It is important to know how much hot water you need aboard your boat. First, let’s talk about how it is heated. Your house ashore may have a 40-gallon or larger water heater. Most residential homes use either gas or electrical heating elements. The usual temperature for your home water heater is around 120 degrees Fahrenheit. A typical shower water temperature may average 105 degrees Fahrenheit. So, let’s think about how that water comes from the tank to you. When you adjust the hot and cold faucets, you are testing the temperature to satisfy your personal comfort. 

Heat Sources

On your boat, the water may be heated by one or both of two heat sources. The first source is electricity. If your water heater is electrically powered, then it uses 110 or 220 volts of Alternating Current (AC). The electricity is either supplied by the shore power at the marina or your onboard generator when at anchor or underway. Be sure to turn the water heater circuit breaker on or you’ll be disappointed with a cold shower.

Your boat’s water heater may also be supplemented by the propulsion engine. The engine coolant is directed through a hose from the propulsion engine to the water heater in a closed loop. 

This is an easy idea to understand. The engine gets hot from the combustion cycles. The coolant, aka anti-freeze, cools the engine through a closed loop. The liquid coolant recirculates through a heat exchanger that uses raw water to cool the liquid and then back to cool the engine again. 

Take that same hot coolant and send it to the domestic water heater in an optional closed loop. The heat from the hose of the hot coolant enters the water heater. The heat transfer
occurs inside the water heater tank, heating the water inside the tank just like a heat exchanger. This is a great use of the hot coolant. This process doesn’t take any more energy or electricity to heat the water. 

Too Hot to Handle

However, there are serious results to consider. The water in the tank may be as hot as the engine temperature. It’s possible to have water nearing 180 degrees Fahrenheit, much higher than your home water heater. Not only should you be aware of this, but also warn your guests so they don’t burn or scald themselves when showering or washing their hands.

Another result is that you will probably use less hot water when showering, doing laundry, or doing dishes in the galley. And, you will not need to waste water when you adjust the temperature waiting for hot water to arrive. It’s there in a jiffy!

Once you have learned this is an advantage, you can use the higher water temperature to extend your nice hot shower instead of taking the fabled “Navy Shower” not just to save water but to extend the hot water availability for the rest of your crew.

Water Heater Options

If your boat has the feature of using hot engine coolant to heat the domestic water, you may be uncomfortable with such extreme temperatures. Or you may just want the option to turn this feature on or off. It’s a simple task that’s easy to learn. 

You can turn off the coolant loop to the water heater tank by locating the two valves on the engine system. Follow the two heater hoses from the water heater back to the engine and turn off both valves. This prevents the hot coolant from heating the water tank. It also provides you a method of isolating the engine from the water heater in case there is a hose rupture. You are back to heating your domestic water by shore power or generator electricity, and you can safely continue your cruise. 

Chris & Alyse Caldwell

Captains Chris & Alyse Caldwell are USCG 100-ton Masters and cruising coaches who offer personal boat training online or on board your boat anywhere. The Caldwells help build your cruising confidence with hands-on training, with their AskCaptainChris.com training videos, through two-day seminars filled with tons of tips for the boater who loves learning, and now remote learning. If you have additional questions for Captains Chris or Alyse, please email them at chris@captainchrisyachtservices.com.

New Boat for Less

New Boat for Less

Find joy in buying a used boat by keeping your goals in focus.

Daydreaming of a new boat when “new” isn’t in your budget? Perhaps consider purchasing a used boat to get on the water sooner. Either way, new or used, you have some prep work to do before beginning your search. 

Buying a used boat can be a task or it can be an adventure. Start by writing down your goals and what you expect the boat to do for you. Determine your speed requirements for fishing or cruising—or maybe both. If anchoring is in your plans, then also think about your dinghy options. Imagine if you will need guest staterooms and if you will prepare meals in the galley up or down. Most important for the helmsman, are you feeling the breeze in your hair as you navigate from the flybridge or are you enjoying the enclosed comfort of a lower helm?

Now you can begin your search: twin or single engine, bow or stern thruster, stabilizers, navigation equipment? There is a lot to consider before traveling to the boat that meets your goals and budget. 

History Lessons Help 

A wise, old salt once said, “If you never ask, then you never get told YES!” Ask for service records, maintenance logbooks, and invoices for major work already done. Learning about the history of a used boat before you fall in love with it can help in your decision-making later.

Ask for the last survey. If the boat was purchased recently, you may be fortunate to read the Purchase Survey. If the seller has owned the boat for a while, it may be an Insurance Renewal Survey. The Purchase vs. Renewal surveys will likely offer different reporting strategies. Purchase surveys often are a deeper dive into what needs attention. 

Be sure to read service hours on the engines and generator. Look for oil changes and fluid analysis. This information can set a benchmark for your survey. Check the “then and now” results.

Not All Engines Are Created Equal

Learn more about the engine and its expected service life in that type of boat. External heat exchangers for cooling the engine must be inspected and cleaned at regular intervals. Consider a water-cooled radiator for the engine coolant, transmission, turbo air after cooler, oil and fuel coolers, and the hot exhaust system.

These are all major service items that can be discussed with the seller or broker, but you can also look at the engines to see telltale clues if work had been done. The paint may be different colors or shades as an indication something has been repaired. Ask these questions before traveling to the boat.

Onboard Space

When visiting the boat, consider first impressions, but dig deeper. Space is important for you and your guests, and it includes personal belongings, water toys, fishing gear, and provisions for your expected cruise duration. 

Space is also essential belowdecks if you plan to do any of the service work such as change the oil or diesel fuel filters. A good deal on a used boat isn’t a deal if you are constantly paying service techs to keep her running. Take a look around. Imagine replacing the rubber impeller on the raw water-cooling pump or changing a diesel fuel filter. Many of these items may be neglected if you can’t easily access the equipment.

Sniff Test

When you first walk on board, check for any lingering odors. These can emanate from soft goods, such as carpet, curtains, or cushion fabric. Those odors may be addressed with a good cleaning, but other sources might require more than a scrubbing to eliminate the unwelcome scent. 

Often, a used boat may need some or all of the hoses changed too. Check the engine hoses as well as the hoses on the sewage black water system. Rub your hands across the hose to see if it passes the sniff test. Decide if you can change the hoses yourself or calculate the cost to hire a tech to complete the labor-intensive job.

Add-ons Add Up

If the boat meets your basic goals, then the role of subcontractor evolves. That’s YOU. How will you proceed with updating the accessories aboard the boat? Is there enough space to make those installations, and do you have the budget to make it all worthwhile?

Installing a bow or stern thruster takes time in the boatyard. If you want to add active fin stabilizers, it could be longer. You will have to drill holes in the hull midship to install the power head and fins. Then, what power source do you prefer: hydraulic oil, pneumatic air, or electric? If you select the gyrostabilizer, you must locate space belowdecks to install the spherical unit and a power source—Direct Current (DC) battery power or Alternating Current (AC) generator power. 

Many new and used boat owners begin to understand that you can spend a lot less money waiting in a marina for good weather if big-ticket items like stabilizers aren’t in the budget. But if fishing is the goal, then maybe stabilizers are something to carve into your total reserve when considering the initial purchase price. 

Hull and Engine Survey

Soft spots in the deck or swim platform can require many labor hours to repair. So, be discriminating when you walk around on your initial boarding and listen to your hull surveyor.

Good maintenance records can help the engine surveyor determine the health and expected life of the propulsion engines and generator. Depending on the mechanic’s recommendations, think about rebuilding the fuel delivery system and heat exchangers. Then you will have the next best thing to a brand-new engine.

Other considerations may include an inverter, shaft seals, toilets, and improved air conditioning. And we haven’t discussed modern navigation with 3D multifunction displays and radars integrated to your tablet or cell phone, auto routing, AIS, cellular boosters, and satellite TV dome. 

The list goes on, but maybe you can have a like-new boat much faster by outfitting it to your standards—and have a little more money in your pocket when you are ready to splash!  

Captains Chris & Alyse Caldwell are USCG 100-ton Masters and cruising coaches who offer consulting and boat training online or onboard your boat anywhere. The Caldwells help build your cruising confidence with training videos and through two-day seminars filled with tips for the boater who loves learning. Contact chris@askcaptainchris.com for more information.

Scanning your Engine Temperature

Engine Scan

Keep an infrared thermal device in your onboard toolbox to check engine temperature and more.

Finally, a long-awaited week cruising aboard your boat. Pack up the family and the dog to head down to the marina. Stow all your groceries, and start your departure list. The family is well rehearsed to disconnect the shore power and the dock lines to follow. Hang on and here we go!

While idling out of the marina, you study the engine instrument panels, watch the oil pressure gauges settle and the temperature gauges rise. All systems are normal, so you easily slide the throttles forward as the boat comes up on plane. Everything is good in the world.

Scan the horizon, the channel, the GPS chartplotter, and a brief glance at the instrument panel. Uh-oh! One engine temperature gauge is creeping up higher than expected. Time to drop the engine rpms before the engine overheats. Whew! The temperature slowly eases back down to an acceptable level. But why?

Possible Causes for Engine Temperature Creep

As you cruise along at this reduced rpm and slower speed, you start your mental checklist. I believe the diver cleaned the hull last week. I have new rubber impellers installed in the engine raw-water pump. The water pump belts are in good condition. So why is the engine overheating?

Now you must decide: return to the marina or continue at a slower speed to your planned destination, whichever is closer. Either way, check the engine temperature when you arrive in port. 

As you cruise slowly toward the dock, keep a keen eye on the engine temperature. In this instance, you’ve witnessed the temperature cooling at lower rpms, but you want to be sure it stays that way. 

A New Tool to Help Diagnose the Problem

Grab your earmuffs and handheld infrared thermal device, and head to the engine room. A handheld infrared thermal device is a simple tool to help diagnose and prevent unwanted temperature creep. They are available at most hardware and automotive stores and perfect for checking engine temperature. 

As with all the equipment aboard your boat, it is beneficial to know how to use this easy tool and understand its value. Just add the dots and record your results on a check sheet.

While your mate is driving the boat, you can start in the engine room. Verify that the sea cock valve handle is open. Then shine a flashlight through the strainer and confirm water flow. Now take your infrared thermal device (sometimes called a thermometer or an IR gun) and aim it at the raw-water pump impeller housing to confirm it is running cool. This location may show less than 100 degrees Fahrenheit. If it is hotter, then it is safe to assume the impeller may have shed a rubber vane.

The thermal scan shows the pump housing is cool as a cucumber. Next, start aiming the IR gun at the downstream cooling components including antifreeze, oil, fuel, transmission, and the air heat exchanger after the hot turbo charger. If any of these heat exchangers have reduced water flow because of calcium buildup or broken raw-water impeller vanes, this could be the cause of overheating.

A mechanic may confirm your diagnosis, possibly using his own IR gun and a high rpm sea trial—these heat exchangers needed a cleaning. Scale buildup prevents the heat exchanger from cooling properly. Best to remove them and send out for professional cleaning by boiling then testing to prove they hold pressure. 

Once certified and installed, the engine should be okay for high-speed rpm cruising without overheating. If you have a twin-engine boat, consider cleaning both engines and the generator at the same time.

Track and Trend 

Once you understand the cooling system, I recommend establishing a series of checkpoints so you can track and trend temperatures while underway. Make a chart and use a pen to mark an inspection point, checking the same location every time. 

Eventually, you may start to witness engine temperature rise as the heat exchangers age over the years and become fouled. This will be an indicator that the heat exchangers may need cleaning again.

Having an infrared thermal device in your onboard toolbox can also help read the temperatures on your batteries, air conditioner systems, water heater, and propeller shaft seals. Preventive maintenance is the best way to keep your engines healthy.  

Captains Chris and Alyse Caldwell are USCG 100-ton Masters and cruising coaches who offer consulting and boat training online or onboard your boat anywhere. The Caldwells help build your cruising confidence with training videos and through two-day seminars filled with tips for the boater who loves learning. Contact chris@askcaptainchris.com for more information.

Ask Captain Chris

Read More DIY Articles

Troubleshooting Tilt and Trim

Optimize Performance

Troubleshooting outboard tilt and trim problems

Failure of your boat’s tilt and trim feature will affect all phases of boat operation, from trimming your motor for better fuel economy to simply raising it to avoid damage when trailering. Here’s how we go about Troubleshooting Tilt and Trim.

The Joys of Tilt and Trim

Tilt and trim allow you to optimize boat performance by adjusting the angle of the engine, which in turn adjusts the running surface of the boat. The ability to trim your engine improves boat performance under a wide variety of conditions, from smoothing out a rough ride in heavy seas to reducing draft in shallower waters.

While this article is geared toward the tilt and trim system for outboard engines, much of it can also be used when troubleshooting stern drives. There are two main types of tilt and trim systems found aboard recreational boats. Older systems often used an electric tilt motor coupled with a mechanical lifting device (such as a worm gear), and the most common system in use today is the electric/hydraulic power tilt and trim. 

Today’s tilt and trim system consists of three primary components: a 12-volt electric motor, a small hydraulic pump, and a reservoir/assembly unit. The electric motor operates the hydraulic pump, which then forces fluid to the cylinders or rams to move
the motor up or down for trimming and trailering. 

Troubleshooting Basics

If your tilt and trim unit fails to operate, the following steps should help you identify the problem, or at least point you in the right direction. As these are just generic tips, you should be able to apply them to most any tilt and trim system. 

The first step is determining whether the issue lies with the electric tilt and trim motor or the hydraulic pump/assembly. Here are a few simple checks to isolate the problem.

Electrical or Tilt/Trim Motor Issues

If you try to raise or lower the engine and nothing happens, start by checking that the battery is charged and that the battery switch is in the “on” position. 

Next, listen for the solenoid/start relay while operating the control (tilt) switch up or down. If you don’t hear anything, the problem will typically be with the tilt switch, solenoid, or with the wires or connections between the two. Depending on the system, a blown fuse is also a possibility, so check any fuses first as part of your initial checks (and always carry spares). 

If you hear a slight clicking noise while pressing the tilt switch, it means you have power from the control switch to the solenoid or relay. The next step would be to check operation of the power tilt and trim motor itself.

 “Blue Sky, Green Grass”

Troubleshooting tilt and trim systems use a 12-volt DC reversing-type motor, which will have one green wire and one blue power wire. If you’re dealing with an older system, the motor may also have a third black wire, which is used to provide ground to motors that don’t receive it through their case.

Applying power to the blue wire raises the engine, while energizing the green wire lowers it. An easy way to remember this is the phrase “blue sky, green grass” (as in the blue wire raises the engine toward the sky; the green wire lowers it toward the ground).  

To test the motor, first remove power to it by disconnecting the blue and green wires. This can be done by unplugging the quick-disconnect plug between the motor and solenoid (if one is provided) or by disconnecting the two wires where they connect to the solenoid or relay. 

Once disconnected, use a jumper wire to apply 12 volts DC directly to the appropriate wire. If the engine is in the down position, energize the blue wire (which should raise it).
If in the raised position, connect the jumper to the green wire to lower it. 

If the motor fails to operate with power applied directly to the blue or green wires, the issue lies with the motor, which will likely need replacement. If the motor operates, then the problem is a lack of power to the motor (faulty solenoid or relay, bad connections, broken wires, and the like). 

Failed solenoids, relays, and corrosion (at connections, relay sockets, quick-disconnect plugs, etc.) are some of the most common problems associated with tilt and trim
system failure.

Hydraulic System and Pump Assembly Problems 

If the tilt and trim motor works fine, but the engine won’t raise or lower, slips down when in the raised position, or won’t stay trimmed, chances are the problem is with a leak in the system. It can also indicate a problem with the hydraulic pump or valve body assembly. 

Start by checking the hydraulic fluid reservoir level. Hydraulic fluid doesn’t evaporate, so a low fluid level indicates a leak in the system hoses, fittings, or seals. While you’re in there, check the reservoir for the presence of water, which can also cause a lot of issues, even if the system appears to operate normally. 

A common place for leaks to occur are the tilt and trim ram seals. Seals can fail for numerous reasons, from dry rot (due to age and UV damage) to corrosion or pitting of the rams, which then damage the seals during operation. UV-damaged seals can simply be replaced, but if the rams are pitted, the only way to really fix the problem is to replace both the seals and rams (as damaged rams will just continue to harm newly installed seals). 

If the hydraulic fluid level is good, the problem is most likely with the hydraulic pump. 

At this point, repairs typically involve removal and rebuilding or replacement by a qualified repair facility.  

-by Frank Lanier

Looking for more DIY Projects?

Installing a Bow Thruster

DIY – Installing a Bow Thruster

You found a used boat that has everything to meet your goal—everything but a bow thruster. But you have your heart set on this accessory and have the budget to spare, so you can make it happen.

Check out some of the steps to add on this accessory. Research the power you’d like to use to propel your thruster, battery or hydraulic. Then, schedule the time for your boat to be laid up in the yard. Include the cost of a haul out to the parts and labor quote you received from the boatyard.

Much of the installation process requires the artistic skill to lay fiberglass and patience to let each step set properly. If you think you can do it yourself, you may be right, but cutting a perfectly symmetrical tunnel into your hull is not something most boat owners can do. This job alone can be expected to take a week to 10 days. It may also include a bottom job as the rest of the hull paint likely needs attention too.

These videos can give you a clearer idea of what needs to be done, either by you or a marine specialist.

How to Battle Bilge Odors

The Smell of Victory

How to battle bilge odors

There are many benefits to having a clean bilge. Not only will it be odor-free, but leaks are easier to spot, pumps and limber holes are less likely to become clogged, and there’s less chance of accidentally pumping oily bilge water (and generating hefty environmental fines). Let’s look at some common sources of bilge smells and how to combat them by maintaining a clean bilge.

Bilge Basics

The main purpose of a bilge is to collect and isolate water that finds its way inside your boat’s hull until it can be pumped out. Problems occur when this water is allowed to sit, which promotes the growth of algae, mold, and organic slime. The odor issue is also exacerbated by the other “stuff” that gets into the bilge. This can be anything from engine fluids and sanitation system leaks to shower or icebox drains plumbed directly into the bilge, all of which contribute to a veritable Hell’s Broth of liquid nastiness that can cause the bilge to reek.  

Bilge Cleaning Prime Directives 

The key to winning the battle of the bilge is to cure the problem rather than mask it with deodorizers, vaporizers, or scented candles.

The first step is to eliminate leaks and fluids that can cause bilge odors. Check packing glands for excessive dripping, tighten loose hose clamps on thru-hulls and sanitation system hoses, and repair mechanical system fluid leaks. Plumb shower and icebox drains into containment sumps, where they can be pumped overboard without contaminating the bilge with hair, soap, and bits of food, which not only smell, but can also clog
the bilge pumps.

If you already have gray water sumps, make sure they are operating properly as a full sump of grungy water can generate smells aplenty. Check the anchor locker as well, which can contain anything from wet rodes to bottom mud and critters. 

Bilge Cleaning 101

The next step in eliminating funky boat odors is a good old-fashioned bilge cleaning. Modern bilge cleaners are oil-emulsifying, meaning they use chemical emulsifiers to break down oil, fuel, slime, and sludge and trap them in suspension so they can be pumped out along with the bilge water. It’s important to remember that just because a bilge cleaner touts itself as being biodegradable, that’s rarely the case with the resultant, emulsified oil/water mixture, which must be contained and properly disposed of ashore.

Once clean, the best way to control odors is to keep your bilge dry. Use towels, sponges, or a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove residual water, then inspect all bilge spaces to make sure there’s no standing or trapped water (due to a clogged limber hole and the like).  

The next best weapon against bilge odor is to provide plenty of fresh air belowdecks. A well-designed ventilation system allows both the intake of fresh outside air and the discharge of stale cabin air. A combination of active (solar/battery-powered ventilators) and passive vents is a popular solution that works well.

Five Steps to a Clean Bilge

Things you’ll need:

⊲ Biodegradable oil-emulsifying bilge cleaner

⊲ Oil-absorbent bilge pads

⊲ Rags or towels

⊲ Wet/dry shop vacuum 

⊲ Large plastic trash bags 

Steps to Clean the Bilge

⊲ Turn off all automatic bilge pumps.

⊲ Clean the bilge of all debris and place in the trash bag.

⊲ Add bilge cleaner (1 quart per 24 feet of boat length or per manufacturer’s directions) and freshwater (if needed). Allow to remain overnight if docked or moored—the rocking motion of the boat will distribute the cleaner throughout the bilge.  

⊲ Pump the bilge, then flush thoroughly afterward with plenty of freshwater. Always pump the emulsified, oily bilge water out at an approved shore facility or into a suitable container for proper disposal ashore.

⊲ Use the wet/dry shop vacuum and rags to remove any remaining water from the bilge after being pumped out. 

⊲ Place used rags and pads into the trash bag and dispose them properly ashore. 

-by Frank Lanier

Corrosion Testing

Corrosion Testing

The importance of checking anode consumption

While I’ve developed many theories about why and how corrosion occurs aboard specific vessels, I’ve never been able to prove anything without testing. It is the most important aspect of corrosion analysis, as well as the surest means of establishing a corrective path, and yet it is not done frequently.  

In my experience, one of the most common reasons to carry out a corrosion test is zinc consumption. Zinc is one of three metals (along with magnesium and aluminum) used in sacrificial anodes, which are consumed based on the load placed on them. Anodes are affected by several factors, including salinity, temperature, current, the amount and type of metal they are protecting, the condition of the vessel’s bonding system, and shore power isolation.

Many vessel owners complain anodes are being consumed too quickly. Others boast about how long their anodes last. That’s a concern as well, as it’s a sign they aren’t working. 

How do Sacrificial Anodes Work?

Anodes utilize a process known as cathodic protection, where the anode sacrifices itself to protect the cathode, which can be any protected metal, propeller, thru-hull, strut, etc. If the two are in contact or connected by a conductor (resistance between anode and cathode cannot exceed one ohm; it’s a lofty standard that often is not achieved because of corroded or loose connections), and both are immersed in the same electrolyte, sea or freshwater, the anode will afford protection to the cathode. The goal is to equip the vessel with the right amount of cathodic protection, i.e., an adequate number of anodes.  

Every metal has a resting voltage, graduated in thousandths of a volt or millivolts (mV), and DC, which in turn is measured using a silver/silver-chloride reference electrode sometimes called a reference cell. These voltages (all are negative with just a few exceptions) are detailed in a chart referred to as the Galvanic Series of metals in seawater. The resting voltage of silicon bronze, for instance, is -260mV to -290mV; aluminum alloys is from -760mV to -1,000mV, and 316 stainless steel in still water (making it more corrosion-prone) is -430mV to -550mV. 

To provide the proper amount of protection, any metal must be driven more negative with an anode by a minimum of 200mV. With that in mind, protection ranges for seawater are as follows: 

⊲ aluminum: -950 mV to -1,100 mV;

⊲ a fiberglass vessel with common underwater metals excluding aluminum: -750 mV to -1,100 mV (a range more conservative than that dictated by ABYC Standards); 

⊲ a timber hull with common underwater metals other than aluminum: -550 mV to -600 mV, steel hulls -850 mV to -1,100 mV.  

It’s worth noting that while most metals can’t be harmed by overprotection, aluminum is an exception as it’s amphoteric (it is affected by both acid and base solutions). Overprotection creates an alkaline or base solution around protected metals; therefore, aluminum protection should not exceed -1,100mV. 

Overprotection can also be harmful to the hulls of timber vessels adjacent to bonded, protected underwater metals. In a process known as delignification, the alkaline solution attacks the soft material between the grain structure.

Testing

Testing assesses the protection level, determines if the right number/mass of anodes is present, and if they are properly located. Testing can also identify a problem, such as rapid consumption of anodes or corrosion of underwater metals.  

Testing is conducted with the vessel afloat, in calm water, with shore power unplugged (not just turned off), and no onboard equipment running. Using the aforementioned silver/silver-chloride reference electrode attached to at least a 20-foot-long marine-grade wire, plug it into the negative terminal of a multimeter with the scale set to volts DC (millivolts if that’s an option). The positive lead is plugged into the meter and then connected to the metal that is to be measured. If the vessel is bonded, meaning all underwater metals are connected to each other and to an anode, then connect the positive lead to a clean (if it is dirty, clean it with a Scotch-Brite pad) section of the bonding system (a bolt, bus bar, or terminal). 

Drop the reference electrode over the side, about two feet below the surface making sure it does not touch the hull. Take your reading and compare it to the ranges given above for various vessels and metals. If the vessel is not bonded, then each metal will need to be measured individually. This may require lengthening the wire for the reference cell. 

For the most part, the propeller and shaft will require their own testing because their connection to the bonding system is tenuous at best as it passes through the transmission, which is an oil-filled medium, thus a poor conductor. Shaft brushes are most commonly available and inexpensive but incapable of achieving the required one ohm or less resistance needed for proper cathodic protection. 

Ultimately, I recommend that all underwater metals be individually tested even if they are bonded, as any significant difference will be an indication of a bonding system issue. An unbonded metal that has no anode protection will read its resting voltage, which should correspond to the Galvanic Series.

An important step after the testing is complete is to connect the shore power cord while leaving the power off. If any of the readings change by more than a few mV, then the vessel lacks isolation from the dockside shore power ground, which means it needs a galvanic isolator. If it already has one, it’s either not working or is improperly installed. Without isolation from the shoreside ground, your vessel is vulnerable to issues created by other nearby vessels or the dock itself. If you plug in on a regular basis, a galvanic isolator is cheap insurance. 

-by Steve D’Antonio

Decked Out

Decked Out

The inside track on replacement flooring

Boat decks aren’t often treated favorably. Sunscreen, saltwater, beer, potato chips, motor oil, fish blood, and bird droppings are ground onto the deck or into carpet fibers, then spread into every nook and cranny. When it’s time to clean it, you find it’s chemically bonded to the deck. The only way to fix this mess is complete removal and replacement. 

Take a deep breath. While replacing boat carpet or decking isn’t something you do regularly, there are new products that will make you wonder why you ever stuck with what you have now.

EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate) and PE (polyethylene) foam, PVC, and woven vinyl are four leading types of boat decking. Closed-cell EVA and PE foam don’t absorb water and are UV resistant. PVC decking looks like teak from afar but is non-skid and impervious to stains. Woven vinyl fabric is soft to the touch and won’t fade for many years. Some boatbuilders use these products on new builds, and in other cases, the owner refurbishes a boat with the new decking or has a professional do the job. 

Preparing the old surface for the new covering can be the most challenging phase of the project. For boat owners, this can be as easy as providing a credit card number to a local installer or as difficult as doing it yourself. 

For example, renowned barefoot-skier Mike Frankenbush of Boca Raton, Florida, recently hired Marine Customs of Melbourne, Florida, to lead the flooring-replacement project on his 20-foot Sanger DXII Barefooter towboat. Frankenbush is a National Barefoot Waterski Champion and teaches waterskiing, barefooting, and wakeboarding from his Sanger towboat to students of all ages (walkinonwaterski.com).

“The boat’s a 2001, and the flooring was original, but the carpet was replaced about ten years ago,” says Frankenbush. “Removal of the carpet was relatively easy, and we had to prep the wood with some resin so that the new flooring would stick to it better.”

Ryan Hofstetter, co-owner of Marine Customs, explained how the project came together, using the product U-DEK for the new EVA/PE cross-linked, closed-cell marine foam decking. 

“The most important step of Mike’s project was the initial consultation,” he says. “This allowed us to fully understand the current state of Mike’s boat, whether or not there were any time constraints, and what was the expected end goal.”

Next, Marine Customs had to create a template of all areas to be covered. The team used a scanner to fully digitize the flooring layout. With the digitized template, the CAD (computer-aided design) team took over for the creative side of the process to begin. The custom design included having the logos of two of Frankenbush’s major sponsors, Bank First and Innovative Marine Designs, built into the U-DEK flooring.

Andrew Howard of Howard Marine Services in Pompano Beach prepared the old surface for installation. “We removed all the upholstery, repaired the plywood floor and substrate, and filled voids to make it smooth,” he says. “The center hatches were shot and the flooring was starting to flex. Now the boat is extremely strong and good for another twenty years.” 

After the surface was thoroughly cleaned and repaired, the decking was laid out for a final dry fit of all pieces before any material was permanently stuck to ensure the best fit and finish as designed.

“With a design layout completed and all aspects of the design phase approved by Mike, our team began preparations for the fabrication process of Mike’s custom flooring which involved laminating our U-DEK material with our 3M adhesives and preparing our CNC machine and tooling for the fabrication process ahead,” Hofstetter says. 

Once the fabrication was completed, the team coordinated a return visit to Mike’s boat for the last step of the process, the installation.

“The hardest thing from our side is being diligent to line up the pieces of the puzzle,” says Hofstetter. 

Frankenbush says the flooring should last up to 10 years depending on weather and sun conditions. If the floor needs to be replaced again, it should be easy because the patterns are already measured. 

“I love the fact that I could be as creative as I wanted putting any type of logo or art on there,” he adds. “With my old surface, the carpet would get mildew and stay wet for weeks if I didn’t take a wet vac to it. This type of flooring literally dries in fifteen to twenty minutes just by sitting in the sun. No one wanted to sit on my wet, soggy carpet, and now they have no problem sitting on this new floor. It’s relatively soft and almost always dry.” marinecustoms.net

-by Doug Thompson

Solar Panels for your Boat

Free Energy

The lowdown on solar panel selection and installation

Sunshine and boats are a natural together, so why not use all that free energy? The strategy behind solar power on board is simple: A solar panel converts sunlight into electricity, after which wiring conducts it to your batteries for storage until needed. Solar panels are used to keep batteries or banks charged rather than run equipment directly. This arrangement allows the panels to store energy whenever generated, while providing a steady source of power to a piece of equipment even when the panel is not producing it. 

While they do require an initial outlay, solar panels can easily pay for themselves in money saved and independence gained over their service life. They’re noiseless, have no moving parts, and they provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance. 

How They’re Used

Almost every boat can benefit from solar energy. Smaller craft (whether at a slip, mooring, or on a trailer) can keep their batteries charged without the need for shoreside power. Larger vessels can use solar power to supplement or even replace other onboard charging sources, reducing or eliminating the need to run engines or generators to keep batteries topped off. 

Solar panels are also modular, letting you start small and add more units as your power requirements increase.

Catching Rays 

Solar panels contain photovoltaic cells, small silicon semiconductor devices that convert sunlight into electricity. Each cell generates between 0.45 and 0.5 volts, depending on exposure to direct sunlight. Cell size determines amperage, with a 3-inch cell producing roughly 2 amps, a 4-inch cell a little over 3 amps, and a 5-inch cell around 5 amps. 

Construction-wise, the three main types of solar panels are monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and amorphous (or thin-film) technology. 

Monocrystalline panels have been around the longest. They contain thin slices of crystal silicon housed in a rigid, aluminum frame and covered with tempered shatterproof glass. They’re the most efficient of the three types (around 17 percent) and have the highest electrical output per area but are also the most expensive. 

Polycrystalline cells are sliced from a cast silicon block and have a shattered glass appearance. Built in much the same way as monocrystalline panels, they’re rectangular, giving the panel itself a tiled look. Their life span is similar to monocrystalline panels, and while their conversion efficiency is lower (14 percent), they’re also a bit less expensive. 

Amorphous panels (aka thin-film photovoltaic cells or TFPV) are made by placing a thin film of active silicon on a solid or flexible backing (such as stainless or aluminum sheeting) depending on whether the panel is to be rigid-framed and glass-fronted or flexible. 

Amorphous panels are the least expensive of the three types; however, their efficiency is also lower, about 8 percent or roughly half that of a monocrystalline type. This lower output is somewhat mitigated in newer panels, which use three-layer construction. Each layer absorbs different colors of the solar spectrum, so the panel will deliver more power longer each day and during low-light conditions than the other two types. 

Planning the System

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on knowing what you want the system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a battery or supplement an overall vessel energy plan? Answering these questions up front will help determine the type, size, and number of panels needed. 

To understand the process better, let’s walk through the basic steps to determine power requirements and considerations for a single solar panel installation. While the example itself is simple, the steps are the same used to plan more complicated installations. 

For our example, the goal is to install a solar panel to provide charging for a 12-volt, 100-amp hour wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel. The first step is compiling a daily power consumption estimate so we can determine how much solar power is needed.

The daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly 1 percent, meaning that 100-amp hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours just to maintain the status quo. The anchor light draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, and we’ll assume operates 10 hours each night. Multiplying current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) is a daily energy expense of .5 amps. 

This means our solar panel must meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps—one amp of battery self-discharge rate plus .5 amps of power draw for the anchor light. 

Next is figuring out panel size and the best mounting location. For our example, let’s assume the panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt, horizontally mounted panel should generate between three to five amp hours per day. We’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge our 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with at least 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts.

Keep in mind that’s the minimum needed, which may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome problems like cloudy days or inherent electrical resistance within the panel or installation components. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you should install a solar charge controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging. 

Hybrid Systems and “Charge Controller Confliction”

If your vessel has multiple charging sources, such as solar panels and a wind turbine, one crucial consideration that is often overlooked is charge controller confliction. In a nutshell, charge controller confliction is an issue where the charge controllers for your solar panels and wind turbine are fighting each other to be the dominant power generator, resulting in diminished charging output and performance. An in-depth article on this issue can be found here (missioncriticalenergy.com). 

-by Frank Lanier

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