Changes and Island Hopping in Eleuthera

Island hopping in Eleuthera

Eleuthera and Harbour Island are surrounded by a handful of islands and cays: perfect for an island hopping adventure. Blue waters connect them, unique animal encounters fill them, and the many secrets of low tide lay between them.

But changes are coming to the islands.

The investment pipeline is looking strong in the remote Out Islands of The Bahamas as they are experiencing a resurgence due to a significant increase in annual visitor arrivals. Overall, stopover passengers grew by 16.7 percent in 2018, or 220,000 passengers.

For Eleuthera, the growth spurt was significantly higher than the national average. Stopover visitors to Eleuthera— those who stay three to four nights arriving by air and sea—increased by 26.8 percent in 2018, or 13,000 passengers.

For cruise ship arrivals, the increase was 105 percent. While Eleuthera and its sister islands, Spanish Wells and Harbour Island, are not popular first ports of entry for boaters
because they are located southeast of Bimini, the Berry Islands, Grand Bahama, and Abaco, they are popular fishing destinations and have general appeal for leisure travelers.
Spanish Wells, known as the lobster capital, has the largest commercial fishing port in The Bahamas.

Fishing in South Eleuthera, from the Cape Eleuthera Resort & Marina, provides ample opportunities to hook sailfish, blue and white marlin, mahi-mahi, wahoo up to 95 pounds, and yellow and blackfin tuna.

Here’s a snapshot of tourism developments underway in Eleuthera that is expected to increase interest in the Bahamian island.

Jack’s Bay Club in Rock Sound

Work is ongoing at Jack’s Bay Club in Rock Sound, including the construction of the Salt Spray Cafe and the Tiger Woods-designed, 10-hole, par-3 golf course overlooking the ocean known as “The Playgrounds.” Jack’s Bay is expected to have three subdivisions of residential lots, a beach club with a luxurious spa, fitness center, resort-style pool, and other state-of-the-art amenities and services.

Harbour Island Club & Marina

A $45 million revitalization for the Harbour Island Club & Marina by real estate developer Michael Wiener will expand the marina from the original 32 slips to 55 and upgrade the property into a 28-room boutique hotel supplemented by 10 luxury villas and a swimming pool. The hotel will also include a waterfront restaurant and bar.

Other Eleuthera Developments

Last December, the Bahamas Investment Authority (BIA) approved the development of Philautia, a five-star, 20-room, health and wellness boutique resort in Governor’s Harbour. The property will also include 15 villas as part of its accommodation offerings as well as restaurants serving food grown at an onsite organic farm.

New owners recently purchased Windermere Island, Rainbow Inn Resort
and Middle Cay Guest Cottage— all established properties that are considered long overdue for upgrades. The respective owners are currently planning renovations and expansions.

Island Hopping

Don’t despair– the natural wonders of the island and their unique attributes are still the main attraction. Here are four places to visit on your next trip.

Comfort Cay

Comfort Cay is a rocky outcropping in North Eleuthera, the fourth most populated island of The Bahamas. Approximately 11,000 residents either fish or farm the rolling acres of pineapple plantations. Eleuthera is a mixed bag of isolated communities, well-developed resorts. The landscape is quite varied with rocky bluffs, low-lying wetlands, and massive coral reefs.

Pink Sands Beach

The almost indescribable pale pink color of the sand comes from microscopic coral insects, known as Foraminifera, which has a bright pink or red shell. Easily snorkel or swim near outlying reefs, which provide large areas of calm, shallow water.

Royal Island

Royal Island is a 430-acre island estate in the Bahamas, offering families and groups a unique and exquisitely private experience of this Caribbean paradise. The island features five stand-alone villas and a central beach club with resort amenities for guests of all ages, set amid pristine beaches and crystalline waters stretching as far as the eye can see.

Harbour Island

Harbour Island is chock-full of history and natural wonders. For a little bit of history, visit Loyalist Cottage, a wonderful example of loyalist architecture, Commissioner’s Residence built in 1913, St. John’s Anglican Church built in 1768, as well as the Chapel Street cemetery containing ancient graves. Or see a hidden overgrown 17t17th-century battery built by the English to defend the island at the southern end of Bay Street.

By Erin Brennan and Noelle Nicolls, Southern Boating July 2019

Preacher’s Cave brings history to life

Bahamian history buffs must visit Preacher’s Cave in North Eleuthera. Standing inside the cave leads you to imagine the Eleutheran Adventurers who were shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone in 1648 and suffered through their early years with few supplies in a location where agriculture and raising livestock were a major challenge. The Adventurers built the first permanent settlements in The Bahamas. They were tough, Christian souls whose descendants in Harbour Island, Spanish Wells and Governor’s Harbour have maintained their traditions of hard work and charity. Preacher’s Cave is in the portfolio of the Antiquities, Monuments & Museums Corporation and can be reached by paved road or by a short walk from the beach. For added knowledge, the most comprehensive history of The Bahamas is probably Islanders in the Stream by Michael Craton and Gail Saunders.

Safety Steps

Cruisers in The Bahamas—and in any foreign waters for that matter—should follow these precautions to ensure safety and peace of mind during your voyage:

• Keep your boat in a marina with good security or anchor near other boats.

• Keep your dinghy out of the water.

• Never walk more than one city block at night. Jitneys are okay in the day but taxis are necessary after dark.

• Stay out of local night clubs and bars. The large restaurants, hotels and casinos are safe.

• Teenagers and young adults should be especially careful because they are frequently targeted.

• Ask dockmasters and hotel managers for local advice.

New VAT Tax

The primary problem with the VAT tax is visceral (no one likes taxes) but the VAT tax is an honest attempt to make the tax system more efficient and ultimately more fair. In the past most government revenues have been from import duties and tourist taxes. The Bahamian government estimated that it was only collecting about 50 percent of import duties due to cheating, graft and cumbersome administration.

The VAT tax of 7.5 percent will be levied on almost all goods and services, but many import duties will be reduced to compensate for some of this new tax burden. Ultimately, Bahamian citizens and tourists will pay more tax, but the intention is to keep the increase low. Most businesses are properly set up to collect the VAT tax, but an adjustment period is expected.

When all is considered, The Bahamas is still a bargain. Most boats pay only $300 for a year of uninterrupted cruising, and most enter full of stores and fuel. Food is expensive but liquor is reasonable. Restaurants and marina prices are comparable to the United States and Canada, and anchoring is free. You are allowed a generous catch of fish, and, best of all, you are cruising in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Preacher’s Cave was a shelter and place of worship for the Eleutheran Adventurers.

Great Harbour Cay Marina

Great Harbour Cay Marina may be the best hurricane marina in The Bahamas, as it is located in a hole within a pond. For a simple residence with an excellent place to keep a boat and access to some of the best all-around fishing in The Bahamas you would do well to make a visit. Or for more luxurious options, purchase or build on the magnificent eastern shore.

Great Harbour Cay Marina has recently received a facelift, and work is still in progress. The docks have freshly painted pilings, and the Dockmaster’s office and the restrooms have been refurbished. The Pool Bar & Grill is open every day for lunch and supper. The Beach Bar on the eastern beach is a reasonable walk by road and an easy walk across the old golf course. The bar has a spectacular view, which is complemented by excellent food and service. Expect a DJ with lively music on holidays and special occasions.

The old golf course is minimally maintained by a group of winter residents for golfers wanting some fun and exercise. You may have to tee up your ball on the fairways, but you can play your way down to the Beach Bar and back. Ask at the marina if there are any locals playing the course. They always love the company.

Osprey

These magnificent raptors are doing well and are another environmental success story. Tagging studies have proven that many of the birds are Bahamian residents but some migrate from as far as New England.

Anchoring

Most boats these days use solid chain (with a snubber to prevent noise and shock) with their anchors. Cruisers might consider using only two or three fathoms of chain and a nylon rode with their primary anchor. Everyone should be anchoring in clear sand where chafe is not a problem, and nylon line provides plenty of strength and cushion. There is a surprising amount of marine life in the sand. Chain and nylon will keep you safe and reduce your impact on the environment

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating March 2015

Conception Island National Park adds convenient new yacht moorings.

To ensure that large yachts can safely moor in Conception Island National Park without damaging coral, the Bahamas National Trust (BNT) installed three moorings in West Bay. The outermost mooring is a 3,000-pound Navy Danforth-type anchor with 90′ of 11/8″ chain and a 2″ nylon pennant for vessels up to 200 feet LOA. The other two moorings are 1,000-pound Navy stockless anchors with 90′ of 11/8″ chain and 11⁄4″ nylon pennants for vessels up to 150 feet LOA. All moorings have large red buoys and small red pickup buoys. Vessels will need to run their own lines through the large thimbles on the ends of the pennants.

These moorings and their installation and maintenance are the generous gift of Mr. and Mrs. Thomas Bagwell, longtime annual visitors and advocates of Conception Island. Jim Holman, Captain of the Bagwells’ 152-foot yacht CHANTAL MA VIE, and his crew made a special trip to Conception Island to set the moorings with a representative of BNT. Yachts are encouraged to use the moorings but to vacate mooring #1 if CHANTAL MA VIE arrives in Conception Island. GPS coordinates of the moorings:

#1 (3,000 lbs.): 23-51.091N/75-07.644W
#2 (1,000 lbs.): 23-51.109N/75-07.382W
#3 (1,000 lbs.): 23-51.099N/75-07.307W

[photomosaic ids=”5909,5910,5911,5912″ orderby=”rand”]

Bahamas Fisheries Regulations
Over the years there have been changes to Bahamian fisheries regulations but not as many changes as in unfounded rumors. Upon entering The Bahamas all foreign vessels should get a free fishing permit from Bahamian Customs. Customs should provide a copy of current regulations, but they usually do not have copies on hand. We recommend that you get the free fishrules app or go to breef.org for the latest fisheries regulations.

Fishrulesapp.com
This exciting free app is now available for Androids and iPhones. It provides fisheries regulations for the SoutheastU.S., the Gulf of Mexico and The Bahamas. This app also includes fishing guides and by using the GPS in your phone will tell you if you are in a marine protected area.

U.S., the Gulf of Mexico and The Bahamas. This app also includes fishing guides and by using the GPS in your phone will tell you if you are in a marine protected area.

The bag limits for foreign vessels are generous, so the penalty for exceeding the limits can be severe. Remember that the fisheries resources belong to the citizens of The Bahamas who work hard to ensure they maintain sustainable fisheries. Do not exceed the bag limits!

The current limits for foreign vessels with fisheries permits:
• Migratory species such as kingfish, dolphin (mahi mahi), tuna, and wahoo: 18 fish total per vessel at any time
• Conch: 6 per vessel at any time
• Crawfish (spiny lobster): 10 per vessel at any time
• Demersal species (grouper, snapper, etc.) 60 pounds or 20 fish per vessel at any time. The minimum size for grouper is 3 pounds.
• There is a total ban on sea turtles and sharks. All bonefish must be released in good condition.
• The closed season for Nassau Grouper is December, January and February and may be extended if necessary.

Bay Street Marina, Nassau
The Bay Street Marina is a major upgrade to yacht facilities and Nassau’s waterfront. Located just west of the western Paradise Island Bridge, the Bay Street Marina is a protected, full-service marina that is well managed and reasonably priced. There is 24-hour security with cameras, locked gates at the entry of each dock, and a guard dog at night.

The marina has 82 slips and can accommodate vessels up to 200′ with a 12′ draft. Marina Manager Peter Maury and Assistant Dockmaster Jacqueline Callender have many years of experience. The marina is located in front of the Green Parrot, the Harbourfront Lounge, and Luciano’s of Chicago— three restaurants that offer a wonderful variety. Luciano’s is one of the best restaurants in Nassau, but if you aren’t careful eating out may cost more than your dockage.

Also enjoy the free shuttle to Solomon’s Fresh Market to stock up on fresh food and supplies. Expect to pay $2.50 per foot or less depending on your length of stay. baystreetmarina.com

Mann Island, North Eleuthera
Brilanders have long used Mann Island—a beautiful, uninhabited cay just north of Harbour Island—for picnics and camping on holidays, especially in the summer. The southern beach is well protected and perfect for couples or families with children.

Recently the southern third of the island was donated to the Bahamas National Trust (BNT) and has become a national park. The BNT has cut footpaths through the bush for better access to the interior and ocean side. Few yachts anchor near Mann Island, but if you are careful there are several sheltered places to anchor in eight feet over a sandy bottom. Mann can be a wonderful day trip or an anchorage that offers a quiet respite from the hustle, constant wake and expense of Harbour Island.

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating February 2015

Take care of sea grass and coral when you cruise and anchor in The Bahamas

The Bahamian government is currently drafting new regulations—that include severe penalties—to protect coral throughout the islands. All vessels, from yachts to cruise ships, will be liable for any damage they cause to sea grass beds when they anchor, run aground or discharge pollutants. Sea grass beds are more fragile than most people realize and are very important to benthic ecosystems. Turtle grass is the principal food for green turtles, and queen conch graze on algae that grow in the sea grass beds. Use moorings when available and anchor only in clear sand. Many national parks have moorings with more planned. The Elizabeth Harbour Conservation Partnership in Great Exuma is in the process of installing a number of snorkeling moorings in Elizabeth Harbour, and a few yacht owners have committed to installing large moorings in West Bay, Conception Island. elizabethharbourpartnership.org

Firearms

Cruisers in the Bahamas are allowed to retain firearms on board for their entire cruise, although Bahamas Customs insists that all firearms and ammunition be declared upon entry and listed on the vessel’s Cruising Permit. Failure to declare firearms is a serious breach of Bahamian law.

If cruisers plan to leave their boats unattended for more than a few days, it is a good idea to contact the local Customs or Police who can secure the firearms ashore in a locked government facility—a sensible precaution to prevent them from getting into the wrong hands. Cruisers can recover their firearms when they return.

Fuel in the Central Exumas

The increased number of boats and the closure of the fuel facilities in Samson Cay have made it difficult for the Staniel Cay Yacht Club to keep up with demand. This summer the club occasionally ran out of gas. As fuel shortages are not uncommon in the out-islands, it is prudent to stay topped off and call ahead to your next destination.

[photomosaic ids=”5592,5591,5590,5589″ orderby=”rand”]

Spanish Wells

Spanish Wells is becoming even more cruiser friendly. A new restaurant, The Shipyard, has one of the prime locations in The Bahamas—the very east end of Spanish Wells overlooking the water to Gun Point. The restaurant has a full-service bar and excellent food at fair prices. There is also a two-for-one drink special at Happy Hour. The restaurant is usually closed Monday and Tuesday.

Spanish Wells Yacht Haven marina is being completely rebuilt with a new restaurant and bar, and guesthouses scheduled to open in December. The marina remains open with good electrical power, water and Internet access at all slips. The docks are scheduled to be rebuilt in early 2015. Call Dockmaster Leroy Kelly on 16 VHF or (242) 333-4255.

These improvements make North Eleuthera even better as a cruising destination with a variety of places to visit, the peace and quiet of Royal Island, Meek’s Patch, and the anchorage off The Bluff, for example. Spanish Wells offers friendly citizens and full services and supplies, including mechanics, welders and R&B Boatyard (rbboatyard.com). Harbour Island is an easy run—a pilot is still very much advised—and is rightfully called the Nantucket of The Bahamas.

Conch

The queen conch (Strombus gigas) stocks in The Bahamas are in a dramatic decline. The Bahamas government, the Bahamas National Trust, commercial fishermen, and others are working hard to draft new regulations that will help rebuild the stocks throughout The Bahamas. Foreign cruisers are still allowed to take conch, but in respect of the conch’s decline cruisers might consider leaving the conch for the local fishermen and eating their conch at restaurants ashore. It’s a good way to support the local economy. (To learn more about this culturally important species, see Dee Carstarphen’s The Conch Book.)

Junkanoo

It’s not too late to consider celebrating Christmas and New Year’s in The Bahamas. Skip the usual presents and buy plane tickets for the family to join you. The beauty of The Bahamas, the friendship of the Bahamian people and the intimacy of your own boat will draw everyone in. Children from up north will be glad to know that Santa Claus puts pontoons on his sled when he heads for southern waters.

By Stephen Connett Southern Boating November 2014
Stevie Connett has been sailing in The Bahamas for several decades. For the last ten years Stevie and Barbara Crouchley have been cruising throughout the islands aboard FOXY LADY tagging sea turtles and working with the Education Department of the Bahamas National Trust.

Valentines Resort & Marina—Harbour Island, Bahamas

Harbour Island in The Bahamas is well-known for its natural beauty, soft pink sands and combination of English and Caribbean aesthetics. The 300-year-old Dunmore Town on the island once served as the Bahamian capital in the early 1900s—and it is there that you’ll find the new Valentines Resort & Marina.

Valentines Marina is the largest on Harbour Island, with 50 slips for boats up to 160 feet. State-of-the-art systems for fresh water, power, cable TV, and WiFi access are provided at each slip. Dock attendants are on hand to assist with arrival and departure, while security ensures only docked guests may access the wharf at night. Other amenities include shower, restroom, coin laundry, and waste disposal services.

The sunset view from the docks of the Valentines Resort.

Valentines Resort is a collection of stylish villas inspired by historic Harbour Island architecture. Each villa comes with a large patio, plush décor, marble restrooms, and a fully equipped kitchen with filtered drinking water. If you don’t want to cook, room service for breakfast, lunch and dinner is available. Massage therapy and yoga classes can be arranged in the comfort of your own suite.

SCUBA fans can explore local reefs and grottos with the Valentines Dive Center—equipment and cameras are available to rent each day. The Dunmore Town watersports center offers rental watercraft and a number of fishing excursions for deep-sea, fly or reef fishing. Harbour Island and the nearby Eleuthera Island are home to excellent bonefish spots, and trips can be reserved through phone or email.

Marina Features:
• 50 slips for vessels up to 160 feet
• Electricity (30, 50, 100 amps), fresh water, cable TV, and wireless internet access
• Fuel dock
• Waste disposal
• Shower, coin laundry, and restroom facilities
• Nighttime security
• Mail service
• Fax newspaper
• Onboard and room dining

Other Amenities:
• Resort villas with luxury décor and full kitchen
• Massage and yoga therapy
• Room service meals
• Babysitting services
• Pool
• Dive Center with SCUBA and watersport rentals
• Fishing charters

Information:
Valentines Resort & Marina
Box One, Harbour Island
North Eleuthera, Bahamas
1 (800) 389-6864
Fishing Reservations: (242) 333-2142
valentinesresort.com

info@valentinesresort.com

By Daniel Wagner, Southern Exposure