Tag: Great Exuma

Elizabeth Harbour

IF YOU ANCHOR IN GEORGETOWN, GREAT EXUMA, without fully exploring Elizabeth Harbour, you just might have regrets, if cruising sailors are to be believed. Elizabeth Harbour is an aquatic playground of sailors, and its secrets are tucked away inside the harbor’s coves and creeks; blue holes and reefs; sand bars and obscure channels.

When the boating season peaks in The Bahamas, Elizabeth Harbour turns into a city on the sea. At sunset, the mast lights switch on when the conch horn blows. “It is like a light show on the water,” said Bahamian sailor Reginald Smith, remembering his two years living on a 43-foot Beneteau sailboat in the harbor of his native island. There are so many boats—sometimes 400 strong—and the sea is easily mistaken for a city on solid land.

Reginald started sailing as a boy of five years old learning from his father, a captain, and fisherman. With an additional 69 years of boating experience weathered into his skin, he confidently insists that Elizabeth Harbour is the most spectacular anchorage in The Bahamas. Based on its popularity for sailors, there are many who would agree, citing diverse attractions and amenities and many locations to provide 360-degree wind protection.

Today, Reginald is a real estate agent, community organizer and conservationist. He relishes the days when he can sit back on the balcony of his oceanfront home in Farmer’s Hill and watch what he calls “the migration”: incoming sailboats from eastern ports along North America to Exuma’s great port city. Many cruisers island-hop their way through the northern cays and then hunker down in Georgetown to socialize and enjoy island living.

Reginald has a 180-degree view of the boats as they make their way to Georgetown. They emerge from the north toward Rolleville, and cruise past his house toward the most popular harbor entrance, the Conch Cay cut. The sight of white sails gliding along the horizon with a background of sky and ocean blues seamlessly blended is what Reginald looks forward to witnessing every year.

“Boats of all sizes start to arrive around Thanksgiving: 25-38 footers up to 65 footers. They usually come in batches of 1 or 2, or 15 or 20. From as far as your eyes can see, they appear full head sailing, into Elizabeth Harbour. It is the most beautiful thing you have ever seen.”

Elizabeth Harbour is protected by mainland Great Exuma to the southwest and the long and narrow Stocking Island to the northeast. There are few full-service marinas in the harbor, Exuma Yacht Club is one of them, so boats anchor in clusters in the main harbor and inside one of the many coves and mooring fields like Hurricane Hole, Turtle Cove, and Red Bays.

When winds kick up, you see them move with synchronicity to different corners of the harbor or tuck inside the protected, nearly landlocked coves. While protected areas abound, inside the main harbor can get windy, causing dinghy rides to be wet and rugged.

Ordinarily, Great Exuma research is not likely to reveal the many things to do right in the harbor. The beach bar and restaurant Chat ’N Chill, a popular watering hole on Stocking Island, is a well-known spot for boaters and non-boaters alike. But other than that, exploring Great Exuma is often about heading in search of swimming pigs, land-based attractions or other parts of Exuma, like the Exuma Land and Sea Park in the northern part of the chain.

And yet, right in Elizabeth Harbour there is a channel entrance to the Moriah Cay National Park, a 16,000-acre marine ecosystem with river-like mangrove creeks, sand dunes, bird sanctuaries, pristine beaches, and marine nurseries. Reginald says it is a mistake to think of the harbor as only being picturesque. Snorkeling buoys, maintained by the Elizabeth Harbour Conservation Partnership, mark 16 top snorkeling locations inside the harbor, including Turtle Lagoon, Mystery Cave, and Fowl Cay Reef Restoration. There are dozens of beach enclaves, some of which meld into sandbars, like Cocoplum Beach and Man-O-War Beach. The sailing itself is also a harbor attraction and not just at regatta time. Every February, winter residents participate in the George Town Cruising Regatta. In April, there is the National Family Island Regatta, which is the largest and oldest formal regatta in The Bahamas.

Sailing at night is a favorite pastime for Royston McGregor, a sailor and marine salvager living in Exuma. Once he has more than a half a moon and the waves are not high, he’ll be out in the harbor running sprints or playing in bigger waves near the harbor’s eastern entrance. As a local, he has the advantage of extensive inside knowledge. “The harbor has different sections, different depths and different wind conditions. Between the mainland by February Point and Crab Cay, there is a flat stretch of shallow water that is usually calm even when it’s windy,” says McGregor. “The Exuma Sailing Club uses that to practice. That’s where I like to do sprints. Windsurfers and kitesurfers also like the area for the same purpose. It is shallow enough for kite surfers to stand at low tide, which makes it great for learners.

For all that Exuma has to offer, Georgetown has hidden beauty, and it’s inside its harbor, in case you didn’t know.

By Noelle Nicolls, Southern Boating January 2018

PHOTO: © BAHAMAS MINISTRY OF TOURISM

George Town, Great Exuma

George Town is perhaps the most recognizable destination for cruisers venturing into the Exuma Cays. Located on the western shore of Elizabeth Harbour near the southern end of Great Exuma Island, it’s a winter haven for some, the turnaround point for others or a jumping-off point to southern horizons. George Town itself is a bustling area that caters to land-based tourism as well as the cruising community. With all its amenities, there’s no place south of the Abacos where the needs of visitors are better met.

Elizabeth Harbour is usually approached from Exuma Sound. A direct, inside approach from the Great Bahama Bank is possible but not recommended due to the difficulty of navigating its reefs, rocks and sandbars. From the Sound, the northern entrance is through Conch Cay Cut, while from the southeast, passing North Channel Rocks leads to Three Fathom Channel and on into the harbor. Both entrances are complex and thread through dangerous waters, so consult appropriate cruising references and carry quality charts for proper navigation. The three-mile-long Stocking Island and a series of smaller cays bound the Harbour on the east. In combination with Great Exuma Island to the west, the land forms a protected harbor with many suitable anchorages, both along the shore of Stocking Island and across the harbor closer to town. Exuma Yacht Club has transient dockage and moorings are available on Stocking Island. In the heart of winter, it is common for over 300 boats to be anchored here. Many services including fuel, laundry, groceries, water, and others are readily available in town.

Volleyball Beach
Situated near the geographic center of the harbor on Stocking Island, Volleyball Beach is command central for the cruising community. The sand volleyball courts host infamously competitive games, the Chat ‘N’ Chill restaurant provides food and drinks, and picnic tables on a beautiful sand beach under the casuarina trees mark the spot where everyone eventually meets. Activities in the area include yoga classes, craft lessons, recreational and competitive volleyball tournaments, Sunday church on the beach, and weekly talks by a local historian. The weekly barbecue lunch by the Chat ‘N’ Chill always draws big crowds. It’s easy to stay updated on local happenings as George Town has perhaps the busiest daily VHF cruiser’s net in the world. Every morning, a controlled net covers weather, news, announcements from local businesses, offers to buy, sell or trade boat gear, and requests for advice on nearly every subject. Depending on your cruising style, you may be energized or horrified by the breadth of activities here.

George Town Cruising Regatta
There’s no better time to experience George Town than in late February during the annual Cruising Regatta. This over-the-top celebration of all things cruising lasts approximately 10 days and is organized almost entirely by the cruising community. The already high energy of George Town escalates in the weeks preceding the first event. One of the biggest events of the Regatta is “George Town Has Talent”. Local residents and cruisers entertain with music and dance numbers ranging from sublime to ridiculous. Food and craft booths add an extra dimension to the festivities. At this year’s show, several local youth groups brought the crowd to life with dance and jazz routines, exemplifying one of the Regatta’s objectives: to bring our boating community and island residents a little closer together.

Another exciting component of the Regatta is the poker run, where participants can run in their dinghies to restaurants on both sides of the harbor picking up a card at each stop. The poker run has no time limit and each stop offers specials on food and drinks making it an all-afternoon event. Elizabeth Harbour is notable for the chop it can develop on windy days, which can make crossing the harbor a wet affair—bathing suits are the uniform of the day. Participants pick up a final card back at Volleyball Beach, where the very salty hands are played and the winning hand receives the quintessential island prize—a bottle of rum.

The Regatta also features a pet parade. Dogs of all breeds are dressed in imaginative costumes and paraded in front of a receptive crowd. Although some pets may be embarrassed by their costumes, they put their best paw forward and make their owners proud. The enticements of the harbor and the variety of events on George Town make the long trek worth your while. Whether you like the scene or not, everyone should experience this iconic destination at least once.

Navigation update:
Long Island Petroleum in Salt Pond, Long Island, suffered major damage to their docks from Hurricane Joaquin in October 2015. They report that the docks have been completely rebuilt as of June 2016. In even better news for cruisers, the approach and dockside waters were dredged. The staff was not able to confirm exact depths, but they indicated that boats with a draft of 6 feet or less won’t encounter any problems at the dock. Furthermore, most cruisers should no longer have to lug jerry cans for fuel.

By Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

Emerald Bay

Emerald Bay is a very well run marina strategically located in Great Exuma for those cruising the southern Exumas and preparing for travels further south. As we approach the hurricane season, Emerald Bay offers a hurricane refuge for boats up to 50 feet on the inner pontoons. I would not recommend the marina for large yachts in extreme weather when there can be a dangerous surge in the area where they moor. All vessels should exercise caution when entering or leaving in strong northeasterly winds.

Spanish Wells Yacht Haven

The refit of Spanish Wells Yacht Haven is now complete. The docks have been rebuilt and have all new electrical wiring. Beautifully appointed rooms are available in four new buildings, and the restaurant, Wreckers, has a full-service bar. The food is as good as you will find anywhere in the Family Islands with a well-balanced menu: ribeye steak, cracked conch, fresh grilled fish, upscale pizza, and several Greek dishes. Head chefs Jo Douvlis and Dino Xenopoulos are in charge. The marina has been almost full every day since mid-March, so reservations are strongly recommended, especially for boats over 60′. Contact Dockmaster, Leroy Kelly, at 242-333-4255. facebook.com/swyachthaven

Hurricane season

The devastation of Hurricane Joaquin is a lesson in the power of nature and our imperfect ability to forecast approaching storms. As the next hurricane season approaches it is best to review these lessons. Plan your itinerary with potential storms in mind and take early action. Be prepared and you can have plenty of fun. It’s a great time to cruise The Bahamas.

Turks and Caicos

The Turks and Caicos now operate a radar surveillance station that can be reached by calling “Provo Radio” on VHF16. The station provides navigational warnings and weather. This service provides improved safety when operating anywhere in the country. I recommend you call the station when you get within range so they can track you and pass important information such as new navigational hazards.

Sand Dollar

Five doves from inside a sand dollar. Photo: Stephen Connett

Bahamian beachcombing is as good as anywhere, and it is fun to learn to identify the shells, beans, and glass that you collect. I still recommend that you carry Blair Witherington’s Florida’s Living Beaches to help in your beach endeavors. The common five keyhole sand dollar (a flat round marine animal related to sea urchins) has a legend that is fun to know. Break a sand dollar to release the five doves it has inside. These doves can be part of your collection. Find out about the legend at traditioninaction.org/religious/f024_SandDollar.htm

Watermakers Air

Cruisers who need to return to the U.S. intermittently during their Bahamas cruising season will be glad to know that Watermakers Air has expanded its services for passengers and freight. Flying out of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, the destinations now include:

• North Eleuthera

• Great Harbour Cay

• Chub Cay

• San Andros

• Fresh Creek

• Congo Town

• Staniel Cay

• Exuma International

Their freight and passengers services are excellent and fairly priced. Watermakers can be reached at (954) 771-0330. watermakersair.com

Blackbeard the manatee

You don’t need a big boat to have a great time on the water. Photo: Barbara Crouchley

Tracking manatees in The Bahamas has become an exciting cooperation between scientists and local observers, and anyone can join in the fun. The Bahamas Marine Mammals Organization (BMMO) run by Diane Claridge and Charlotte Dunn welcomes all observations. They ask for photos so they can make positive identification of individual animals. Sightings can be reported on their website. Anyone can follow the tracks of the manatees on BMMO’s Facebook page. bahamaswhales.org; facebook.com/bmmro

Nina Sanchez, a student in Grand Bahama, recently took a video of manatees in a canal. The video is posted on You Tube as “Manatees in Sunrise Canal.” One turned out to be a manatee named Blackbeard who can be identified by the crescent cut in the right side of his tail. Blackbeard has been tracked for several years and has been seen as far south as Long Island.

Navigation notes:

For those of us who have cruised through the Windward Passage to enter The Bahamas at night, the Matthew Town lighthouse was a very welcome sight. The good news is that this and several other lights have been put back in service, and the Royal Bahamas Defense Force says it is doing its best to relight and maintain the major lights throughout the islands. Great Isaac, Hole in the Wall and Matthew Town are now operational as are several smaller lights in the Abacos. In these days of radar, GPS and chart plotters lighthouses are not quite as essential as they were years ago. However, it only takes one lightning strike to disable your boat’s electronics and put you back in the old days, loving every functioning aid to navigation—all lighthouses included.

— by Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016

Take care of sea grass and coral when you cruise and anchor in The Bahamas

The Bahamian government is currently drafting new regulations—that include severe penalties—to protect coral throughout the islands. All vessels, from yachts to cruise ships, will be liable for any damage they cause to sea grass beds when they anchor, run aground or discharge pollutants. Sea grass beds are more fragile than most people realize and are very important to benthic ecosystems. Turtle grass is the principal food for green turtles, and queen conch graze on algae that grow in the sea grass beds. Use moorings when available and anchor only in clear sand. Many national parks have moorings with more planned. The Elizabeth Harbour Conservation Partnership in Great Exuma is in the process of installing a number of snorkeling moorings in Elizabeth Harbour, and a few yacht owners have committed to installing large moorings in West Bay, Conception Island. elizabethharbourpartnership.org

Firearms

Cruisers in the Bahamas are allowed to retain firearms on board for their entire cruise, although Bahamas Customs insists that all firearms and ammunition be declared upon entry and listed on the vessel’s Cruising Permit. Failure to declare firearms is a serious breach of Bahamian law.

If cruisers plan to leave their boats unattended for more than a few days, it is a good idea to contact the local Customs or Police who can secure the firearms ashore in a locked government facility—a sensible precaution to prevent them from getting into the wrong hands. Cruisers can recover their firearms when they return.

Fuel in the Central Exumas

The increased number of boats and the closure of the fuel facilities in Samson Cay have made it difficult for the Staniel Cay Yacht Club to keep up with demand. This summer the club occasionally ran out of gas. As fuel shortages are not uncommon in the out-islands, it is prudent to stay topped off and call ahead to your next destination.

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Spanish Wells

Spanish Wells is becoming even more cruiser friendly. A new restaurant, The Shipyard, has one of the prime locations in The Bahamas—the very east end of Spanish Wells overlooking the water to Gun Point. The restaurant has a full-service bar and excellent food at fair prices. There is also a two-for-one drink special at Happy Hour. The restaurant is usually closed Monday and Tuesday.

Spanish Wells Yacht Haven marina is being completely rebuilt with a new restaurant and bar, and guesthouses scheduled to open in December. The marina remains open with good electrical power, water and Internet access at all slips. The docks are scheduled to be rebuilt in early 2015. Call Dockmaster Leroy Kelly on 16 VHF or (242) 333-4255.

These improvements make North Eleuthera even better as a cruising destination with a variety of places to visit, the peace and quiet of Royal Island, Meek’s Patch, and the anchorage off The Bluff, for example. Spanish Wells offers friendly citizens and full services and supplies, including mechanics, welders and R&B Boatyard (rbboatyard.com). Harbour Island is an easy run—a pilot is still very much advised—and is rightfully called the Nantucket of The Bahamas.

 

Conch

The queen conch (Strombus gigas) stocks in The Bahamas are in a dramatic decline. The Bahamas government, the Bahamas National Trust, commercial fishermen, and others are working hard to draft new regulations that will help rebuild the stocks throughout The Bahamas. Foreign cruisers are still allowed to take conch, but in respect of the conch’s decline cruisers might consider leaving the conch for the local fishermen and eating their conch at restaurants ashore. It’s a good way to support the local economy. (To learn more about this culturally important species, see Dee Carstarphen’s The Conch Book.)

Junkanoo

It’s not too late to consider celebrating Christmas and New Year’s in The Bahamas. Skip the usual presents and buy plane tickets for the family to join you. The beauty of The Bahamas, the friendship of the Bahamian people and the intimacy of your own boat will draw everyone in. Children from up north will be glad to know that Santa Claus puts pontoons on his sled when he heads for southern waters. 

By Stephen Connett Southern Boating November 2014
Stevie Connett has been sailing in The Bahamas for several decades. For the last ten years Stevie and Barbara Crouchley have been cruising throughout the islands aboard FOXY LADY tagging sea turtles and working with the Education Department of the Bahamas National Trust.

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