Category: U.S. Atlantic

Find upcoming events from Maine to Florida, along with detailed destination reviews of major hubs and lesser-known small towns. If you’re looking for the best cruiser resources, you’ve come to the right place. Each month, Southern Boating posts Regional Reports that cover the Atlantic Coast in detail. Chesapeake, Southeast Seaboard, the Carolinas, and down to Miami, Southern Boating keeps you updated on marinas, events and the resources you’ll need to successfully navigate the U.S. Atlantic.

St. Simons Island Boating: Embark on a Luxury Adventure

Cruising to St. Simons Island

St. Simons Island, nestled along the southeastern coast of Georgia, is an idyllic haven for boating enthusiasts. With its pristine waterways, breathtaking vistas, and a rich maritime heritage, this charming island beckons sailors, fishermen, and boaters alike. Whether you’re a seasoned mariner or a novice just dipping your toes into the boating world, St. Simons Island has something special to offer you.

A Voyage Through History

St. Simons Island and its surrounding area have a rich and multifaceted history that spans centuries, from Native American settlements to colonial times and beyond. The region is a tapestry woven with the stories of indigenous cultures, European exploration, colonization, and the struggles and triumphs of the people who have inhabited this land.

Boating in St. Simons Island is not merely a recreational pursuit; it’s a journey through maritime yesteryear. The island’s roots are deeply entwined with seafaring traditions dating back to the colonial era. Explore the St. Simons Lighthouse and Museum which stands as a sentinel to the island’s rich nautical past. The lighthouse’s towering presence and the adjacent maritime museum provide insight into the island’s maritime legacy, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and curious adventurers alike.

The Diverse Waterways 

One of the most enticing aspects of boating on St. Simons Island is the sheer diversity of waterways to explore. The island is nestled among the serene waters of the St. Simons Sound, the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), and the vast Atlantic Ocean. These pristine waterways offer opportunities for cruising, kayaking, paddleboarding, and more. The calm, protected waters of the sound make it an ideal place for novices, while the open ocean beckons experienced mariners to set sail for adventures offshore.

The area also has a selection of well-equipped marinas catering to boaters’ needs. Morningstar Marinas at Golden Isles, for example, is a full-service marina that provides boat slips, amenities like a swimming pool, and easy access to the ICW and Atlantic Ocean. St. Simons Island Marina, located in the heart of St. Simons Village, offers convenient access to shops, restaurants, and historic sites. These marinas extend a warm welcome and essential services to make your journey enjoyable and stress-free.

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A Fisherman’s Paradise

For anglers, St. Simons Island is nothing short of a fishing paradise. The island’s waters teem with a wide variety of fish, including redfish, speckled trout, flounder, cobia, grouper, and more. If you are visiting by land, it is easy to charter a fishing boat or head to the St. Simons Pier, where locals and visitors gather to reel in their catches and swap fish tales.

Unspoiled Natural Beauty and Wildlife

While cruising around St. Simons Island, don’t miss the opportunity to explore the nearby barrier islands, such as Little St. Simons Island and Cumberland Island. These uninhabited gems offer a glimpse into unspoiled natural beauty, pristine beaches, and abundant wildlife. Cumberland Island is home to feral horses and historic sites like the Dungeness Ruins, providing a unique and enriching excursion for nature enthusiasts.

Land Adventures and Exploration

Visiting St. Simons Island is not just about the sea; it’s about the complete experience. Once you’ve docked your boat or wrapped up a day of cruising, there are plenty of fantastic on-shore adventures to explore.

Wander down the scenic Avenue of the Oaks, lined with ancient oak trees draped in Spanish moss. It’s a perfect spot for a leisurely stroll or a relaxing picnic. Or head for East Beach, which is great for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports. Its wide shoreline offers plenty of space for relaxation and fun. Another great place to unwind and enjoy the ocean breeze is Neptune Park, a family friendly destination with a playground, mini-golf, and a fishing pier. 

History buffs might want to climb to the top of the iconic St. Simons Lighthouse for panoramic views of the island and learn about its maritime history in the museum below. Explore the well-preserved remains of Fort Frederica National Monument, an 18th-century British fort and settlement that offers insight into the island’s colonial history. You can also visit one of Georgia’s oldest churches, Christ Church, dating back to 1820, and admire its extraordinary architecture and serene cemetery.

Delectable Cuisine and Dining Experiences

Exploring St. Simons Island isn’t complete without indulging in its delicious cuisine. Whether you’re in the mood for fresh seafood, Southern barbecue, or fine dining, the island’s restaurants have you covered.

Indulge in fresh seafood and Southern favorites while enjoying ocean views from the outdoor seating at The Crab Trap. Another great place for regional seafood is Georgia Sea Grill. The upscale menu combines classic and contemporary flavors. Echo, located in the King and Prince Beach & Golf Resort, also offers elegant dining with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and creative flavors.

Looking for something more casual? Café Frederica is a charming café known for its delicious breakfast and lunch options. Enjoy a cozy atmosphere and friendly service. Or treat your taste buds to authentic Southern barbecue in a laid-back setting at Southern Soul Barbeque. Don’t miss the mouthwatering ribs and homemade sides.

Luxurious Resorts and Accommodations

After a day of boating and exploring, you’ll need a comfortable place to rest your head. St. Simons Island offers a range of resorts and accommodations for every preference.

The Cloister at Sea Island is a luxurious and world-renowned resort with top-notch amenities and a stunning beachfront location. The historic oceanfront King and Prince Beach & Golf Resort offers luxurious accommodations, a golf course, a spa, and direct access to the beach. Just a short drive from St. Simons, the world-renowned Sea Island Resort boasts top-notch amenities, including golf, spa, fine dining, and beautiful surroundings. And the Ocean Lodge, a boutique hotel with stylish rooms and stunning ocean views, offers a relaxing atmosphere and personalized service.

St. Simons Island offers a blend of history, adventure, delicious cuisine, beautiful beaches, and natural beauty. The island’s sparkling waters and maritime charm provide an unforgettable experience, making St. Simons Island a boating destination unlike any other along the Georgia coast. Whether you’re drawn to the rich maritime history, the diverse waterways, the fishing, or the on-shore adventures, this island truly has something for everyone. So, hoist your anchor and set sail for the enchanting waters of St. Simons Island, where adventure and history await at every turn. 

-by Michele Allen

Ultimate Boating Guide: A Week in the Florida Keys

Decide whether to take the inside or outside route before you go.

It’s always smart to use a Florida Keys boating itinerary when you embark on a new journey. Having lived aboard our own 44-foot trawler and traveled the island chain for years, we believe that any time is terrific to cruise the Keys!

This time our journey takes us from lower Biscayne Bay to Marathon on Vaca Key. But we have a slight dilemma—inside or outside route?

Planning Your Florida Keys Boating Itinerary- Inside or Outside Route? How to Decide:

When planning your Keys Cruise, shallow-draft boats (less than 4 feet deep) can easily travel the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), also called the Inside or Bayside Route. Deeper-draft boats may opt for the Outside or Ocean Route via Hawk Channel. This channel is 15-20 feet deep and runs along the ocean side of the Keys between the land and the barrier reef to the southeast. The reef acts as a wave dampener to allow for serene ocean runs.

Wind and weather also help in your decision to travel inside versus outside. The islands do a good job of tamping down the fetch, so on a good day with northwest winds, the ocean route may be calm one mile offshore. But if the wind is southeasterly, you may change course to the inside route for a smoother ride.

Exploring the Inside Route: Island Hopping in the Keys

As part of our Florida Keys boating itinerary, let’s explore the Inside Route. The string of Florida Keys begins at Boca Chita, part of Biscayne National Park, with a very small but well-protected harbor. Although it offers no water, electricity, or trash collection, the natural beauty of the scrub and surrounding crystal-blue water is a terrific start to your journey. If you are lucky to arrive when the park rangers are present, you may be able to climb the 65-foot lighthouse. What a view!

Continuing the Inside Route from Biscayne Bay, you’ll meander into Card Sound with plenty of opportunities to anchor. A plow anchor is most effective in the Florida Keys because of the limestone seafloor, also called hard pan. If you’ve never anchored here, try it out for lunch and an afternoon snorkel. Once you’ve mastered setting the hook in the hard pan, your options for anchoring are almost endless. Please stay off the seagrass and anchor only in the white sandy bottom.

Jewfish Creek provides your first opportunity to stop overnight in a full-service marina. As you wind your way from the sound and into the mangrove-lined channel, you will be treated to birds of all colors and sizes soaring and swooping as they search for their dinner. They won’t have to look too hard as these shallow waters are chock-full of fish. You may even spy a bright-green iguana camouflaged in the sun-filtered leaves of the mangroves. Just south of the Belize Blue 65-foot bridge, you’ll find your choice of two marinas with power, fuel, and a pump-out. Tiki huts dot the beach where you can sip on a frozen coconut concoction while waiting for your dinner to arrive. 

Heading south into Blackwood then Buttonwood sounds, experience the shallows of Florida Bay. Keep a sharp eye as you navigate to stay in the deepest water. Hidden in these gorgeous blues and greens are sandbars aplenty. Although the channels are well-marked, it’s a great idea to plan your course in advance and know what to expect. A good pair of binoculars and polarized sunglasses can help your crew to spot the buoys and day beacons needed to cross the banks with ease.

Tavernier offers a few more marinas in addition to a local grocery store or a night off for the chef at a shoreside restaurant. It’s always a fun adventure tasting fresh fish of the local cuisine.

As the channel opens to the unprotected bay, don’t fret! If the winds are not in your favor, you have an opportunity to cross over to the Outside Route just below Lower Matecumbe at Channel 5. Be cautious using any of the smaller creeks above Channel 5. The fixed bridges may not be tall enough for your boat, and the moving tide can create currents 5 knots or faster.

The Allure of the Outside Route: Ocean Adventures

If your draft is deeper than 4 feet or the weather forecast is spectacular, the Hawk Channel route might be a better option than the shallows of the Florida Bay. Leaving from Miami’s Government Cut, you can have an easy day that ends with choices: anchor, snag a mooring ball, or tie-up at a marina. 

John Pennekamp State Park 

Nestled on the oceanside of Key Largo is John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Reserve a slip with power or snag a mooring ball with a short run to the dinghy dock. Dive or snorkel near Dry Rocks to see reef fish and the famous underwater Christ of the Abyss statue. Be attentive to the Sanctuary Preservation Areas marked with buoys so boaters can visit without damaging the reef as good stewards of our environment.

Still eager to explore but aren’t a diver? Rent a kayak to skirt the mangroves and enjoy the sultry surroundings. Take a tour on their glass bottom boat to see the reef without even getting wet.

If you need to shore up your land legs, you will find tropical hammocks with native flora and fauna to discover while you hike or picnic. Then take in a natural history exhibit and an amazing 30,000-gallon saltwater aquarium in air-conditioned comfort. 

Anchor Overnight in the Ocean

A few miles south, Rodriguez Key has an almost-360-degree anchoring option to provide a wind break. If you prefer to plug in, there are many marinas in Key Largo and Islamorada. Select a dock in a man-made canal, but be cautious making some of the 90-degree blind turns—one fondly referred to as Crash Corner. A preemptive security call on the VHF radio or a prolonged blast of your horn will alert other boaters before you proceed.

Ready to fish? The Florida Keys offer an abundance of species that will provide an adventure to remember. Be sure your fishing license is up-to-date and add a crawfish permit if you’re lobstering this season. Don’t forget the melted butter!

Final Destination: Marathon’s Coastal Charms

Nearing our final destination, remember the crossover option at Channel 5. If the southeast winds are creating a bumpy ocean ride, this wide channel allows you to hop back under the 65-foot bridge to the Inside ICW route. There are anchorages on each side of the bridge to wait out the weather from either direction. When the weather eases, mooring balls and marinas await. Boot Key Harbor, here we come!

New and legendary marinas with fabulous dining options are ready to sample. Walk, bike, or take the train to tour Pigeon Key on the Old 7-mile bridge. Peek over the historic railroad railings and see rays swimming below when tide is slack. Position yourself for an unobstructed view of sunset, and you might catch the elusive green flash.

Provisioning options for your return trip are plentiful in big-name grocery chains and locally owned small stores. Barracudas is our favorite fine-dining establishment that’s been around for decades, but your choices are endless here in paradise. Looking for Keys casual? Thatched roof waterside restaurants are a great place to sip chilled wine, cold beer, and umbrella drinks. Swim with the dolphins or visit the Turtle Hospital tomorrow.

Come enjoy all that pleasure boating has to offer because any time of year is terrific for cruising the Keys. Be sure to keep this Florida Keys boating itinerary handy for your next visit!

-by Chris Caldwell

Captain Chris

Captain Chris Caldwell is a USCG 100-ton Master and Cruising Coach. Consulting & Training Online or Onboard your boat anywhere! Build your cruising confidence with training videos, 2-day seminars filled with tips for the boater who loves learning. Questions? Chris@AskCaptainChris.com
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Cruising The Florida Loop

FLOOPin’ – Florida Loop Cruising

Start your journey anywhere along the route to experience a different kind of Florida.

Looking for a different sort of adventure? Try FLOOPin’—boating along the Florida Loop. You can make a loop around the southern tip of Florida that includes the cut through the Okeechobee Waterway, the stretch along Florida’s southwest coast in the Gulf of Mexico, around the Florida Keys, and along the East Coast (inside via the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) or outside in the Atlantic) back to your starting point. There is no time limit to your travels, as Florida enjoys cruising weather all year long. 

You may want to prepare for your trip with a cruising guide and a few books, something with a bit of Florida history to plan your stops. You can begin your journey anywhere along the route and go clockwise or counterclockwise. Just cross your wake where you started and you’re FLOOPin’! I promise you will experience a different kind of Florida.

Let’s Start in Miami 

The hustle and bustle of the City of Miami is surrounded by sparkling turquoise water that’s a great start for our Florida Loop. There are faster routes to plot this cruise, but we plan to smell the roses and see the sights by cruising mostly inside on the ICW. With many low drawbridges that require opening for your boat, reduce your air draft by lowering your antennas to make it an easier trip.

Cruising north, look to your right while passing by the inlet ship channel usually filled with cruise liners at the dock. Caution: This channel is closed to pleasure boats even when the cruise ships are not in port as a security protocol. For a great view of south Florida’s waterfront homes, just stay on the inland ICW route.

Tall condos and skyscraper hotels form a canyon path along the ICW for a few miles. But soon the landscape changes as you cruise through Hollywood and Dania Beach. Throughout this adventure, you will be treated to local flora and many sea birds. Keep a sharp eye!

Around 30 miles north of Miami, you arrive at another commercial shipping area known as Port Everglades. Landlubbers call this Fort Lauderdale, home to the International Swimming Hall of Fame, megayachts, and plenty of restaurants to people watch. Marina choices are abundant for the next 50 miles or so. Tie up before setting out on foot to explore the stunning white beaches of the Atlantic Ocean. Anchoring can be a challenge but is possible in this part of the FLOOP for the adventurous cruiser.

Safety First and the Fun Follows

It’s always important to have a lookout for safety purposes but that assigned task is essential in this stretch of the waterway. Incredible architectural designs line both sides of the channel and can steal your attention from key navigation duties. Infinity pools abound with waterfalls inside multistory residences, all part of the unique and contemporary displays. The yachts docked behind these homes are spectacular, too, but remember your responsibility to the rules of the waterway and take precautions. Keep your cruise on track.

By now, you realize that the numerous drawbridges have schedules to open allowing you to maintain slow speeds on this part of the ICW. Check your cruising guide for bridge heights and posted schedules. Always request an opening on VHF channel 9 if your height restricts you from passing under.

Anchorages and New Friends

You’ll soon arrive in the Palm Beaches, nearing the Lake Worth Inlet on your next stop of the Florida Loop. Here, the waterway widens, but let the channel guide you to the deeper water, and respect the manatee zones. Anchorages are plentiful in Lake Worth and farther north. Watch your forecasted wind direction and choose where to lower the hook considering your depth, wind fetch, and the tidal range of about three-and-a-quarter feet
in this area. 

Peanut Island is just west of the inlet and was built by dredging the ship channel. Home to President John F. Kennedy’s bomb shelter during the Cuban Missile Crisis, Peanut Island is a great dinghy stop. Be aware of the high traffic of both pleasure and commercial crafts as you cross the channel. Farther north, the Jupiter Lighthouse along the Loxahatchee River marks a locals-only inlet due to shifting shoals. 

Welcome to old Florida, where bird-watching is an art and quite entertaining. Dolphin have likely been following you, too, so look over the bow rail at these friendly critters or in your side wake to spy these glorious mammals. Soon, you are entering the Treasure Coast starting with Martin County, a less-densely populated area with many golf courses and even horseback rides on the beach. Scrub trees and mangroves mark undeveloped land on both sides of the ICW. Don’t blink or you may miss an iguana or osprey camouflaged in the brush.

Slow Your Ride

The midway point of your Florida Loop comes near the crossroads of the ICW and the start of the Okeechobee Waterway past Jupiter Island, head west to enter the St. Lucie River and Stuart. Take a left past Stuart where the river will lead you to Port Mayaca. Throughout this waterway, you’ll find plenty of choices to stop each evening: marinas, mooring balls, and anchorages. Look at your charts and note the upcoming five locks you will traverse connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico across the state. Two are on the eastern side of Lake Okeechobee to raise you up to lake level. Three more locks will lower you down to the level of the Gulf waters. Contact the lockmasters on VHF channel 13.

Across Lake O

Wait for a favorable weather forecast on your Florida Loop to cross 25 miles of open water on Lake Okeechobee, a very shallow lake. Although it can whip up quickly with a strong wind from any direction, most boats will only feel the uncomfortable beam seas if the wind is strong from the north or south. So wait a day or so in Stuart, and enjoy restaurants or provision in the nearby grocery stores before proceeding.

Wherever you land for the evening, you will see sea cows (manatees) and land cows. That’s right. There is an abundance of cattle trotting alongside the Okeechobee Waterway because Florida has a thriving cattle production. And you thought Florida was just about the beaches and fishing.

Docked in Clewiston? Head to the Clewiston Museum for local history, WWII aeronautical artifacts, and you may even see a working steam engine train in the sugarcane fields. There is more to do along the Okeechobee Waterway than just locking through. Continue up to Moore Haven to pick up the Caloosahatchee Canal to head west over to Fort Myers. 

The Lee County area of the Florida Loop has recently experienced the full force of a Category 4 hurricane but is recovering swiftly. While the entire Okeechobee Waterway is navigable from the Gulf to the Atlantic, check with the Local Notice to Mariners and other online resources, such as waterwayguide.com, for the latest navigation alerts. Likely, you should brush up your anchoring skills if you want to overnight on this part of your adventure, but fuel and provisions are available. 

Heading South 

At the end of the Okeechobee Waterway, cruise south through San Carlos Bay into the Gulf of Mexico. Naples is just 32 miles for a short run to marinas or anchoring. Marco Island is less than 15 miles farther for a longer daily run. If you have a good weather window, it’s a fairly straight 80-mile cruise from Marco Island to Key West. Sometimes, you want to keep your days short; in that case, try the Little Shark River anchorage. If you’re looking for the Conch Republic, you are almost there.

Key West, here we come! Before arriving in this paradise, we recommend securing marina reservations ahead of time. Docking in a slip allows worry-free exploring through the walkable streets of the southernmost part of the U.S. Visit museums, restaurants, and watering holes with lots of character, minding the ever-present wild chickens and Hemingway’s six-toed cats. Don’t miss the daily sunset festivities in Mallory Square complete with street performers—every…single…night.

It’s tough to tear away from the frivolity of this quirky key, but it’s time to move onward north and east as you follow the island chain. Although you are now on the homestretch, the last leg of this FLOOP is simply gorgeous. Meander through the five main keys, each with a unique personality to explore. Crystal, azure water and coral reefs offer sun, snorkel, SCUBA, and fishing to delight on the journey to Biscayne Bay. The skyline of downtown Miami is ready to welcome you back. Crossing your wake means your adventure is over—for now. Bet you’re already planning another FLOOP!

-by Chris Caldwell

Visit Hutchinson Island

Hideaway on Hutchinson Island

Just far enough away to escape the hustle and bustle of the city streets is the secret gem of Florida’s Treasure Coast—a 23-mile stretch along the Atlantic Ocean from Fort Pierce to Stuart known as Hutchinson Island. This serene barrier island attracts visitors in search of beautiful weather, an abundance of outdoor activities, engaging experiences, and marvelous waterfront dining.

Fun in the Sun

Spend a day (or more) at the Marriott Hutchinson Island Beach Resort, Golf & Marina (marriott.com), where each room boasts a private balcony with views overlooking the island. The resort features beach and water sports, an 18-hole golf course, 13 tennis courts, a fitness center, and outdoor pools. Its 75-slip private marina offers full amenities, including fuel, water, electric, and free Wi-Fi. Boaters are welcome to use the resort’s amenities while docked. Members of Freedom Boat Club can also access boats from this marina.

Book a guided fishing charter from the resort’s marina to get to where the fish are biting. Many different fish species provide nonstop action for anglers of all skill levels. 

There are also plenty of places to rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards, such as Motorized Kayak Adventures (motorizedkayakadventures.com) which offers tours through the mangrove canopy forests of the Indian River Lagoon (IRL) and Lisa’s Kayaks (lisaskayaks.com) where knowledgeable guides navigate cruises on the IRL that are perfect for bird sightings.

Scenic Beaches

Grab the sunscreen and head for any of the dozens of free public beaches on the island. The most popular is family friendly Bathtub Reef Beach—its clear water makes it perfect for snorkeling and SCUBA diving. Saddle up at Frederick Douglass Memorial Park, the only beach in southeast Florida that allows horseback riding along the shoreline. Show your skin in all its glory at Blind Creek Beach Park, the island’s only clothing-optional beach. But don’t worry, there are warning signs posted just in case the kids are in tow.

Engaging Experiences

While you may be tempted to just relax on the beach all day, there are a few don’t-miss attractions around the island. Vintage car buffs will enjoy the Elliott Museum (hsmc-fl.com/elliott-museum), where a three-tiered robotic racking system displays 55 antique automobiles dating to 1903. Users can select one vehicle via a computer interface, and it will be placed on a rotating platform for a closer look. 

Divers will want to check out the House of Refuge Museum at Gilbert’s Bar (hsmc-fl.com/house-of-refuge). Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it is the oldest structure in Martin County and the last remaining of the 10 that were built. The Houses of Refuge were run by the U.S. Lifesaving Service and designated as shelters for shipwrecked sailors along Florida’s Atlantic coast including those on the Georges Valentine, whose wreckage rests just 100 yards offshore.

Nature-lovers can get a close-up view of the sea life swimming around the 750,000-gallon game fish lagoon at the Florida Oceanographic Coastal Center (floridaocean.org/coastal-center). This 57-acre marine life nature center provides hands-on educational programs about Florida’s coastal ecosystem. Fun fact: From April to September, Hutchinson Island becomes one of the most important nesting areas for loggerhead turtles in the world. 

Delightful Dining

Known for its “world-famous fried shrimp,” Chuck’s Seafood (chucks-seafood.com) is one of the area’s longest-standing restaurants. The casual waterfront eatery offers spectacular views of the Fort Pierce Inlet. For something a bit more upscale, dine oceanside at Kyle G’s Prime Seafood & Steaks (kylegseafood.com). Don’t let the name fool you. The award-winning restaurant also serves breakfast and brunch. Looking for waterfront dining with a full bar and live music? Stop by Manatee Island Bar and Grill (manateeislandbarandgrill.com). Be sure to take home a souvenir T-shirt!

With all there is to do, a visit to Hutchinson Island is definitely one to add to the bucket list.

Exploring Florida’s Treasure Coast

Treasure Hunt

Florida’s Treasure Coast is a hidden gem.

Tangerine and cotton candy-colored clouds billow along the horizon creating the perfect backdrop for this laid-back, picturesque Florida region. Tucked along the Atlantic Coast just north of Palm Beach, the Treasure Coast comprises Martin, St. Lucie, and Indian River counties. This hidden gem is a wondrous destination filled with family friendly fun, unforgettable experiences, and more than 60 miles of beaches on which to surf, fish, or just relax.

The Treasure Coast got its name from the 1715 Spanish treasure fleet sunk by a hurricane while returning from the New World to Spain. The fleet’s gold, silver, and jewels were scattered over the seafloor, and though much of the booty has been recovered, snorkelers, divers, and other fortune-seekers continue to search the water for treasure today.

The coast is lined with sandbars and barrier islands that protect the numerous bays, rivers, and lagoons, such as the 156-mile-long Indian River Lagoon which contains five state parks, four federal wildlife refuges, and a national seashore. Lake Okeechobee, the largest freshwater lake in Florida, is connected to the lagoon by the Okeechobee Waterway and the St. Lucie River meeting in Sewall’s Point. 

“The Okeechobee Waterway is a cross-Florida navigable waterway connecting Florida’s Atlantic Coast to its Gulf Coast at Fort Myers,” says Ed Killer, outdoors writer for TCPalm.com. “There is a series of locks to carry boats through the waterway, the most dramatic of which is the St. Lucie Lock and Dam in central Martin County which is fourteen feet. Pass through the locks to enjoy a unique boating experience.”

Check out the Stuart Boat Show happening Jan 13-15th.

A Good Sport

Being on or near the water is a way of life on the Treasure Coast. From boating and water sports to diving and fishing, there is something for everyone.

“Boating is truly in the DNA of this coastal community and has been for decades,” says Charlotte Bireley, director of tourism and marketing for Visit St. Lucie. “Fort Pierce is also home to boat manufacturers that churn out top-tier boats of every size, shape, and model. World-class boat makers, including Pursuit, Maverick Boat Group, Bluewater Sportfishing, and Twin Vee PowerCats, make their home in Fort Pierce, which means boating enthusiasts have the industry’s best at their fingertips.”

Enjoy stand-up paddleboarding? Tour operators from Zeke’s Surf and Paddle Sports (zekessurfandpaddle.com) in Stuart and Paddle the Pointe (paddlethepointe.com) in Jupiter offer guided experiences throughout the area’s waterways. There are plenty of places to rent kayaks and canoes for a self-guided excursion, and for those who snorkel or dive, a range of dive shops lead excursions and offer classes for certifications, such as Dive Odyssea (diveodyssea.com) in Fort Pierce. 

Numerous charters specialize in offshore, inshore, saltwater, and freshwater fishing experiences. Spend a day on a guided fishing charter out of the Fort Pierce Inlet,
where many different fish species provide nonstop action for anglers of all skill levels. 

“The most popular fishing spot is the jetty rocks at Jetty Park,” says Bireley. “The jetty is located at Fort Pierce Inlet…. The rocks jut out into the ocean offering anglers many spots to cast a line.” Sebastian Inlet State Park, six miles north of Vero Beach, is also a premier saltwater fishing spot. Drop a line for redfish, flounder, snapper, grouper, and more. 

As a sportfishing paradise, Stuart has earned the title “Sailfish Capital of the World.” In fact, downtown Stuart boasts the iconic 19-foot bronze Stuart Sailfish statue that majestically leaps from a fountain. The eye-catching piece welcomes visitors to the city.

But that’s not all Stuart is known for. “If you haven’t yet caught a snook, there is no fight like it,” says Killer. “Stuart has five species of snook living in its waters, the only place in the world this can be said.”

What’s Up, Beaches?

Grab the sunscreen and get ready to lean your chair back into the cinnamon sand. With long stretches of pristine shoreline, the Treasure Coast has a vast array of beautiful beaches are never crowded. Enjoy some family fun at Bathtub Reef, Stuart, Hobe Sound, and Jensen beaches, all which are lifeguard-protected daily. Saddle up at Frederick Douglass Memorial Park in Fort Pierce, the only beach in southeast Florida that allows horseback riding along the shoreline. Soak in the sun at Fort Pierce’s Blind Creek Beach, recently designated “clothing optional.” Hang Ten at Wabasso Beach Park in Vero Beach, a popular surf spot with breaks to the right and left of the jetty.

“Don’t miss a day at Fort Pierce Inlet’s sandbar by Dynamite Pointe on an incoming tide. The crystal-clear waters from the Atlantic come flowing in giving boaters a feeling of being in the Caribbean,” says Bireley. “Visitors will find many boaters anchored to enjoy the tides, cold beverages, music, and a massive party on the sandbar—and it’s family friendly.” 

Nature Calling

A treasure trove of activities await outdoor enthusiasts. Jonathan Dickinson State Park in Hobe Sound bursts with wildlife in 13 natural habitats including sand pine, mangroves, and river swamps. Enjoy canoeing, kayaking, motor boating, biking, and various guided tours throughout the park. Blowing Rocks Preserve, also in Hobe Sound, is aptly named for the stunning spectacle that occurs at high tide: Saltwater shoots up through the gaps in the limestone, at times spouting 50 feet into the air. The beach dunes, mangrove swamps, and tropical hardwood hammocks along the rocky shoreline are definitely worth exploring. 

Farther south, check out the Jupiter Inlet Lighthouse, operated by the Loxahatchee River Historical Society. Climb all 105 steps to the top for spectacular views. You can also bike along the sandy road on the Historic Jungle Trail and stop at Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge in the Indian River Lagoon, home to hundreds of animal species, for some birdwatching or a photo op of nature at its finest. 

“Boaters should explore the islands speckled along the edges of the channel in the Indian River Lagoon/Intracoastal Waterway,” says Bireley. “Many islands have amenities such as picnic tables, grills, and even a few rope swings for the brave adventurers. Overnight campouts under the stars are popular on the islands.”

Dock and Dine

“The culinary scene along the Treasure Coast is growing more impressive every year,” says Ian Centrone, tourism program manager for the Martin County Office of Tourism and Marketing. From Stuart, home of the annual Stuart Boat Show in January, and Jensen Beach to Fort Pierce and Sebastian, there are numerous waterfront eateries where boaters can “dock and dine.” 

Some of the more popular options include Mulligan’s Beach House Bar & Grill in Jensen Beach, open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner year-round, where the famous Beach House Bloody Mary is served next to incredible views of the Indian River (mulligansbeachhouse.com). The chef at Pirate’s Loft at the Pirate’s Cove Resort & Marina in Stuart hand-picks fresh seafood daily and then prepares it with Caribbean flair (piratescoveresort.com). Try Gator on the Edge, fried Florida gator tail bites served with spicy remoulade, at On the Edge Bar and Grill in Fort Pierce, an open-air, tiki-style restaurant with a full bar and live music daily (facebook.com/OnTheEdgeBarAndGrillFL). Or grab a seat on the riverfront deck at Blackfins at Capt Hirams Resort in Sebastian for island-style favorites like fish tacos, conch fritters, crab cakes, and its signature dish, Dirty Oysters (hirams.com).

The More You Know

TCPalm.com’s Ed Killer offers some additional insider tips for boaters on the Treasure Coast. “Follow the channel markers,” he says. “Stuart has lots of deep water, but around the (St. Lucie) inlet and Crossroads, where the St. Lucie River and Indian River Lagoon intersect, there are lots of shoals and shallow water.  

“Be especially careful after dark,” he adds. “Many of the channel markers in the Intracoastal Waterway and Okeechobee Waterway are not lit at night so use a Q-beam to light channel markers so as not to collide with them.”

In terms of other tips, Killer suggests checking official websites, such as Discover Martin (discovermartin.com), Visit St. Lucie (visitstlucie.com), and Visit Indian River (visitindianrivercounty.com), to stay well-informed. “Websites house tons of useful resources…sample itineraries based on various interests, special offers that are updated throughout the year, and so much more.” 

-by Bonnie Schultz

Inside the Outer Banks

Inside the Outer Banks

Cruising the sounds of North Carolina’s east coast is full of adventure. 

One of the wildest watery destinations for boaters on the East Coast of the U.S. is North Carolina’s Outer Banks. Boats of all sizes and shapes venture to four main ports along the coast and often turn west into the sounds, rivers, and creeks for small-town diversions and solitude.

Comprising more than 3,000 square miles, Pamlico Sound is the second-largest estuary in the U.S., eclipsed only by the Chesapeake Bay. It’s big water. Navigation, safety, and weather are always the watchwords when venturing to the delightful destinations along the inside and outside shorelines. 

Outer and Inner Banks

The Outer Banks were once defined only as the Hatteras and Ocracoke Islands. Portsmouth Island is considered the Core Banks but has also been grouped into the Outer Banks. Over the years, common usage and marketing has expanded the term to mean pretty much every stretch of sand from the North Carolina/Virginia border south to Beaufort. Then someone decided that Inner Banks might be a catchy title for the coastal region on the western side of the Pamlico. Regardless of what you call them, the ports, anchorages, and waterways are some of the best boating in the U.S.

Getting There

Choose your destination based on your abilities and vessel. Do not rush. Plan carefully. Running Pamlico Sound can be a slick ride or a pounding that makes you want to be at the dock. The shallow water and open fetches mean that winds over 15 knots will stir things up to uncomfortable levels for all but the largest boats, and there are shoals and shallows that must be avoided. But you don’t necessarily need to run in open water for long to get to your Outer Banks destinations. You have options.

The Big Four

Four ports that beckon for a full-on Outer Banks adventure are Manteo, Hatteras, Ocracoke, and Beaufort. Visited one at a time, or as a complete trip, there are facilities and amenities at each for boats of all sizes. While the Pamlico Sound system is the overall geographical designation of the region, there are several other named sounds through which you will navigate. Albemarle, Croatan, Roanoke, and Core Sounds are shown on the charts and maps, so you know where you are.

Manteo

At the northern end of the Outer Banks on Roanoke Island is the town of Manteo. One of the most historically significant locations specific to the European settlement of North America, Manteo’s waterfront and marina can accommodate vessels up to 100 feet with seven feet of dockside depth. Navigation to the harbor from the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) to the west when you are southbound requires some planning, and there is ample advice available from various sources.

The town has plenty to offer within walking distance, and the oceanfront comprising Nags Head, Kitty Hawk, and Kill Devil Hills is a short drive east. You can spend weeks here exploring, eating your way through superb restaurants and visiting America’s history.

Hatteras

Forty-five nautical miles south of Manteo is Hatteras. Home to commercial and charter fleets, the harbor has room for transient and visiting vessels at several marinas as well as a boatyard for services or maintenance. If you arrive by boat, plan ahead. You will need transportation to get to the few restaurants and grocery stores on quaint Hatteras Island. The National Park Service maintains the Hatteras Lighthouse and Visitor’s Center, and there are plenty of campsites, some B&Bs, and a hotel or two. Hatteras Island is a long way from anywhere, but worth the trip. 

Ocracoke

In order to make the next port of call, you will need to run about 25 nautical miles to avoid shallow water and shoals. Ocracoke Island and the little town of the same name is a favorite for boaters and landlubbers alike. The island comes alive in the summer for families and travelers wanting to get away from it all. Miles of beaches, some great little cafes, a brewery, and gift shops keep the island vibrant. There are only a few marinas and an anchorage in the harbor known as Silver Lake. Golf carts and hoofing it are the primary means of transportation. Provisions are easy to come by, and you may find yourself spending a week or more lolling about in the southern sunshine and breezes. Call the marinas and docking facilities in advance as space is limited.

Beaufort

Fifty nautical miles farther southwest is Beaufort and Morehead City. Using either Core Sound (with local knowledge only) or crossing the southern end of Pamlico Sound to take the ICW inside will get you there. Beaufort and Morehead are reachable via Core Sound, but locals and adventurers are probably the only ones who should try based on several factors. It’s skinny water, but it’s not totally impassable. The big boats don’t go there, but everyone doesn’t own a big boat. Beaufort is the quintessential ICW town with plenty of marinas, restaurants, inns, and a waterfront vibe that’s pure North Carolina nautical. A favorite stop for many making passage on the ICW, Beaufort—and its next-door neighbor Morehead City—will keep you entertained and also offer protection from weather and wind. 

Navigation

Navigation advice for these destinations abounds. There are several important considerations when planning a visit to any of these Outer Banks locations. First, from which direction are you leaving? Second, what size is your boat? Third, what is your experience and comfort level?

If you travel from north to south and visit each destination in order, then the mileages and suggested routes will get you there with minimal stress as long you watch the weather and have a well-found vessel. Albemarle, Pamlico, Croatan, Roanoke, and Core Sounds will beat you up if you don’t pay attention. Summer thunderstorms and passing fronts are not to be disregarded. The Bermuda High dominates in the summer and southwest winds of 15-20 knots may last for days. But, as stated earlier, you have options. 

You can visit two of the destinations without spending too much time in open water. Manteo and Beaufort require less open-water navigation than Hatteras and Ocracoke. Beaufort can also be reached via the ICW canals, rivers, and protected portions of the Pamlico. If you are in a sailboat and relish 15-20 knots, then sailing the sounds to the true Outer Banks towns of Hatteras and Ocracoke is a breeze, but watch the depth sounder. Many large vessels go outside and come in at Hatteras Inlet for visits to Hatteras and Ocracoke, and Beaufort Inlet for that location. Avoid Oregon Inlet unless you have local knowledge or the confidence of following the charter fleet that comes and goes daily when weather permits. 

If all of this sounds daunting, then there are many towns, marinas, and anchorages on the western side of the Pamlico that can keep you cruising all season ducking in and out of protected harbors with enchanting waterfronts, restaurants, and shops for provisioning. 

-by Ed Tillett, Waterway Guide

Bungalows Key Largo

Divine Disconnection

Escape life’s everyday hassles at the luxurious Bungalows Key Largo.

Paradise awaits at Bungalows Key Largo, a secluded, all-inclusive resort set within a botanical garden edged by the ocean. This adults-only oasis faces Buttonwood Sound at Mile Marker 99 in Key Largo, the first and northernmost of the Florida Keys and home to tropical hardwoods, two state parks, a national park, and a portion of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. Just about an hour’s drive south of Miami along Overseas Highway, admire the views of the serene Gulf of Mexico on one side and the vast Atlantic Ocean on the other as you leave all your cares behind. Key Largo is on island time, and Bungalows Key Largo is your tropical escape. 

Situated on 12 acres, the boutique resort designed and owned by renowned hotelier Jerry Johnson offers 135 luxurious bungalows (31 with waterfront views) for couples to disconnect from the world and reconnect with each other. Every bungalow has a private, bougainvillea-laden veranda with alfresco soaking tub and garden shower, an indoor spa bathroom with rain shower, a private patio outfitted with two Adirondack chairs, and two cruiser bikes, which you can use to explore the expansive, white sand-and-palm-covered property. 

Key Largo’s temperature typically ranges between 71 degrees and 82 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. With such gorgeous weather, it is no wonder why most outdoor activities occur around the water. 

Without a doubt, the beach is spectacular. Listening to the waves crashing in the deep-blue ocean, feeling the warm water against your skin, and breathing in the fresh sea air would take any stress level from a 10 to a one. The Bungalows even provides lounge chairs, hammocks, and cabanas sprinkled along 1,000 feet of shoreline for the ultimate relaxing beachside experience. Bring your own sunglasses and sunscreen.

Fun on or off the Water

For the more adventurous, a large array of complimentary non-motorized aquatic equipment is available, including stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, water trikes, and snorkeling gear. Find out why Key Largo is known as the Diving Capital of the World: Spend a day exploring nature below the surface at the U.S.’s first undersea park, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, and snorkel two extraordinary places: Dry Rocks, home of the Christ of the Abyss, and Molasses Reef. 

Don’t want to get wet? Take a Happy Hour cruise aboard Lady B, the resort’s 56-foot sailing catamaran, through Florida Bay to watch the unrivaled, magical Florida sunset. Have a glass of champagne and a shrimp cocktail while the sea breeze blows through your hair. Be on the lookout for a dolphin or two—they often pop up during the scenic ride to wave hello.

Another option is to set sail on one of two the floating tiki boats, the S.S. Margarita and S.S. Rum Runner. Picture a tiki bar on the water, complete with your own mixologist. Cruise around the beautiful bay while you sit at the bar and indulge in another round of drinks. 

Key Largo also has a multitude of onshore attractions including nature trails and a rehabilitation center for wild birds. The island is flanked by Everglades National Park to the west, a premier destination for kayakers and wildlife enthusiasts, and the U.S.’s only living coral barrier reef to the east. Reserve one of the Bungalows’ private boat charters on an Axopar or a WorldCat power catamaran for a customized full-day or half-day voyage to explore some of these sites.

Indulgences

When it’s time to soothe your soul, unwind in the Zen Garden Spa. Black bamboo-lined walkways lead guests to five private outdoor cabanas and the bayside waterfront treatment tiki, where massages, facials, and other treatments refresh and rejuvenate your mind and body.

The spa is also home to a eucalyptus steam room, Himalayan salt therapy treatment room, and an indoor relaxation area. But the center of attention is the large Buddha statue. You’ll find several of them throughout the property. Fun fact: The Buddha statue that looks like a woman sleeping is named “Lady Night Night.” She denotes restfulness in a zen-like fashion, messaging “relax” as you enter the resort.

The Bungalows also has several delectable dining options. Eat and drink to your heart’s content—there are no limits to this culinary extravaganza. Kick back at one of the two pools or Jacuzzis with a few tropical drinks and snacks from the Sunset Tiki Bar. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner overlooking the ocean at Fish Tales, a casual eatery that serves Mediterranean-inspired selections blended with fresh local specialties. Tempt your taste buds with flavorful Mexican fare and a margarita at beachside Sea Señor. Indulge in a top-shelf cocktail at Hemingway Bar before dinner at Bogie and Bacall’s, which features an elegant multi-course menu and a sommelier-curated wine list for a true fine-dining experience. Reservations are required at this upscale restaurant.

Of course, some people don’t want to think about exercising when they are on vacation because as we all know, calories don’t count. But for those who insist on keeping up their wellness regimen, the open-air fitness center features Peloton bikes, rowing machines, treadmills, ellipticals, and free weights. Early risers will enjoy the daily sunrise yoga sessions that take place on Tranquility Beach.

Bungalows Key Largo provides a divine disconnection from everyday life with exceptional amenities, exclusive experiences, and endless sunshine. Adults looking for a luxurious Florida getaway will find a relaxing place to reconnect at this intimate resort. bungalowskeylargo.com 

-by Bonnie Schultz

Ocean Reef, a residential club unlike any other

Ocean Reef Club

Convenient to the Bahamas and encompassed by the famed waters of the Florida Keys, Ocean Reef Club’s 175-slip marina is nothing short of world class. One of finest marinas on the Eastern Seaboard, a full range of marina services, private charters, and watercraft rentals are available to Members and their guests, accommodating performance and sportfishing boats as well as yachts up to 175 feet. As Members moor their boats in the marina or an individual slip – the on-site facility will handle any detailing or repair needed, and also provide accessories, bait, and tackle.

Surrounded by clear, warm waters and the finest fishing in the world, Ocean Reef Club is a place where the possibilities – and the memories – are limitless. The variety of local fish is astounding, and the techniques of their capture are among life’s most exhilarating pursuits. Members can fish for billfish one day, snapper the next, and wind up your week stalking bonefish. There is also the reef itself, the only living coral reef in American waters. It towers above the seafloor, sheltering an amazing variety of species. Between 15 and 60 feet down, you’ll encounter snapper, porgy, grouper, hogfish, mackerel, jacks, and many others. It’s unforgettable entertainment.

Ocean Reef is a residential club unlike any other. A place where generations of Members and their families have experienced the wonder of living on 2,500 pristine, secure acres. No other club in the world offers the abundance of amenities and privileges, kinship, and tradition.

There are only two ways to experience Ocean Reef Club’s Unique Way of Life – as a guest of a Member or through the pages of Ocean Reef’s Living magazine. Visit OceanReefClubLiving.com or call 305-367-5921 to request your complimentary copy.

Lighthouses of the Outer Banks

Lighthouses of the Outer Banks

The Outer Banks of North Carolina are a string of barrier islands jutting out into the Atlantic Ocean. Beyond them are the treacherous waters of “The Graveyard of the Atlantic,” where many a ship has floundered. Numerous lighthouses were built to help mariners navigate the dangerous passages, but through time and the use of modern navigation technology, many lighthouses no longer serve as the primary navigational aid. Yet, they still stand as a reference to warn boats of dangerous area. Every lighthouse is unique and painted differently so boaters can identify each one and know their location to use as a daymark. At night, each working lighthouse has a distinctive light sequence as its identity.

Many lighthouses have been restored and are open to visitors who can climb to the top and get a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area. Typically, there is a fee for this which is used for preservation and upkeep. Keep in mind that the lighthouses are often closed in the winter, so check ahead to see if and when you can visit.

Currituck Beach Lighthouse

The farthest north of the lights is the Currituck Beach Lighthouse in Corolla. An impressive red brick tower rises 162 feet above the ground. The 220 steps are considered a relatively easy climb with numerous landings to stop and rest. Along the way, you’ll see exhibits that tell the lighthouse’s history. From the top, you’ll have great views of Currituck Sound, the Atlantic Ocean, and the northern Outer Banks.

Completed in 1875, Currituck was the last major brick lighthouse built on the Outer Banks. It was left unpainted to make it different from the other lighthouses. The lighthouse is situated among many restored buildings, one of which has been converted into a gift shop. The surrounding grounds are known for their scenic beauty.

Bodie Island Lighthouse

The Bodie (pronounced “body”) Island Lighthouse is just south of Nags Head. At 156 feet high and with prominent black and white horizontal stripes, the Bodie Light is a striking feature. After earlier versions failed, this structure was finished in 1872. The lighthouse was open to the public in 2013 after an extensive renovation. Climb the 214 steps to the top and you’ll be rewarded with glorious views of Pamlico Sound and the Oregon Inlet. The keeper’s duplex is also restored and houses a gift shop, ranger office, and visitors center.

One of the unique features of the Bodie Island Light station is that it is surrounded by ponds and wetlands. Boardwalks lead visitors to observation stations to catch a glimpse of birds and other wildlife.

Cape Hatteras Lighthouse

The most famous of the Outer Banks lights is the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse located in Buxton on Hatteras Island. After earlier lights were deemed too short and not effective, a new structure was completed in 1870. At 208 feet tall, the Hatteras Light is the tallest lighthouse in the United States. The great height and visibility were deemed necessary because sea conditions just offshore make this area one of the most notorious for shipwrecks. The distinctive black and white diagonal stripes were added in 1873.

The lighthouse is open to the public, and the 269 steps traversing the 200 feet of elevation make this a challenging climb, especially in the heat of summer. As a reward, you’ll get great views of Hatteras Island, Pamlico Sound, and the Atlantic Ocean. Nearby, there is a visitor’s center and museum.

In the 1900s, beach erosion continually threatened the structure. When all efforts to stop the encroaching ocean failed, the entire lighthouse was moved 2,900 feet over 23 days in a monumental engineering feat in 1999, and is now well back from the water.

Ocracoke Lighthouse

The Ocracoke Lighthouse is located on Ocracoke Island and is the southernmost of the Outer Banks lights. There are no bridges to the island. Ferry service is available from Hatteras Island to the north and from mainland North Carolina to the south.

The Ocracoke Lighthouse opened in 1823 and is now the oldest operational lighthouse in North Carolina and the second oldest in the nation. The lighthouse is in a unique setting—a residential area on only two acres of land. It is within easy walking or biking distance from many locations on the south end of the island.

Unfortunately, the lighthouse is not open for climbing and there are no visitor facilities on site. Parking is extremely limited. You are, however, welcome to visit and take pictures. At only 75 feet tall, this is the shortest of the Outer Banks lights, but its pure-white exterior makes it a striking landmark. The short stature was all that was necessary to safely guide mariners through Ocracoke Inlet and into Pamlico Sound.

Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse

In the small town of Manteo on Roanoke Island, you will find the most unusual of the Outer Banks lights, the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse. The original lighthouse was established in 1831 and was used to guide nearby ships into Croatan Sound; therefore, great height wasn’t necessary for visibility. Destroyed and rebuilt several times, the last working light was opened in 1877. Decommissioned in 1955, the structure was lost in an ill-fated move. The current light is a replica of the 1877 lighthouse. Finished in 2004, it’s only 37 feet tall and can be found at the end of a short pier jutting out into Roanoke Sound. outerbankslighthousesociety.org

By Ed Brotak, Southern Boating July 2020

Virginia Fishing Road Trip!

Road Trip!

Head to Virginia’s most eastern coast for a fishing getaway.

By Chris Knauss – Southern Boating June 2020

Anglers seeking a diversity of fish while visiting a relatively small region can’t go wrong by trailering their boat along the Maryland and Virginia coast. With the Chesapeake Bay on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other, and a fairly thin slice of land separating the two, you can bounce back and forth like a pinball finding fishing spots and adapting to changing weather patterns.

Where to Go

Start at Virginia Beach, Virginia, and head north along U.S. Route 13 or start in Ocean City, Maryland, and head south. During the summer months, the list of fish species shoaling these waters is exhaustive, but here’s a sampling: striped bass, bluefish, flounder, speckled trout, cobia, croaker, white perch, Spanish and king mackerel, black drum, red drum, yellowfin tuna, bluefin tuna, dolphinfish, marlin, and even tarpon.

In 2018, Annapolis resident John Loe landed and released an 85-pound tarpon that he caught while fly fishing in the seaside shallows of Virginia’s eastern shore. Anglers can find huge redfish (red drum) up to 50 inches at places like Buoy 42A off Bayford, Virginia, in the Chesapeake Bay. Redfish will hit 7- to 10-inch soft plastics like BKDs or Z-Mans tipped with a ¾- to 1-ounce jig head. Similar-size reds as well as striped bass and cobia also like the shoal areas near the Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel (CBBT). Artificial reef and wreck sites off Ocean City and Virginia’s coast host flounder, bluefish, tautog, sheepshead, and triggerfish.

For tarpon, Capt. Jack Brady recommends anchoring up and soaking chunks of fresh bait on a fishfinder rig with enough weight to hold bottom. A medium-heavy rod and reel holding 20-pound braid or monofilament along with 20 feet of 50-pound test leader is a standard setup. Place a fishfinder clip over the leader and add a large barrel swivel, then attach four feet of 80-pound mono leader snelled to an 8/0 circle hook. Burtons Bay, Hog Island Bay, and Fisherman Island are all good places to look for tarpon on Virginia’s shore.

Let’s Go South

Since I tend to avoid crowds, especially nowadays, let’s skip the popular Ocean City, Maryland, fisheries this month and start this trip in Chincoteague, Virginia, and head south. That way, you’ll only need one state fishing license. But first, a bit of an overview.

White Marlin begin to cruise Gulf Stream waters off the Virginia Coast this month.

Chincoteague and the entire Virginia coast offer similar fishing opportunities with myriad inlets and inland points to target for shallow-water casting and bottom fishing, all the way until you get down to Cape Charles and the CBBT, which is even more fishable. If the weather’s cooperating, and you’ve got an ocean-worthy vessel, you can launch at an oceanside boat ramp and head to the offshore canyons for deep sea fishing. Tuna, mahi-mahi, wahoo, sharks, and white and blue marlin are found wandering along the western edge of Gulf Stream waters 50 miles off the coast. You can also leave your trailered boat in a parking lot for the day and opt for a charter with one of many experienced offshore skippers available for hire.

The wrecks and reef structures from six to 14 miles off the coast are easily accessible and hold seabass, tautog, and flounder. Closer to shore and in the inland waters, you can find flounder, bluefish, striped bass (known here as rockfish), and speckled trout. Bounce over to the Chesapeake Bay side and you’ve got seven artificial reef sites spanning the length of the peninsula that hold spot, croaker, rockfish, redfish, flounder, and more. Striped bass and speckled trout can be targeted in the grass flats.

Ideal boats to explore the inland waters and shallows are skiffs and midsize center consoles from 18 to 26 feet that allow you to glide over skinny water at times and take advantage of the many public and commercial launch ramps in the region. Take it slow and keep an eye out for shoals. A push pole can come in handy to keep quiet in the shallows and to push you off a sandbar. Wind, tide level, and current can create some dynamic conditions, so watch the weather carefully when choosing your launch site. Concrete boat ramps on the peninsula are plentiful. In Accomack County, they’re found at Annis Cove, Gargatha Landing, Greenbackville Harbor, Parkers Creek, Pitts Landing, Queen Sound, Quinby Harbor, Schooner Bay, Southside Chesconessex, and more. If you’re cruising and have a kayak, the inland bays are ideal for paddling and fishing.

The 17.6 mile Chesapeake Bay Bridge-Tunnel offers plenty of structure that attracts fish for anglers to target.

Curtis Merritt Harbor in Chincoteague provides access to Chincoteague Bay as well as other seaside inlets and bays and the Atlantic Ocean. Blackfish Bank Artificial Reef, about six miles east of Chincoteague, was initially created with 40 armored personnel carriers and nearly 100 New York City subway cars. The harbor facility is open 24/7, so purchase the $5 temporary launch permit, valid for seven consecutive days, at the town office or at the harbor. The police department also sells permits when the town office is closed. A good place to pamper yourself after a day of casting is the Marina Bay Hotel & Suites, but there are many other options. Anchor Inn on the Chincoteague Channel allows you to tie up at its marina so you won’t need to launch every day. Capt. Bob’s Marina offers transient slips and can accommodate vessels up to 30 feet long.

Chincoteague is best known for its flounder fishing. When the flounder return from their winter hideouts, they take up new residence in the many marsh guts and channels behind the barrier islands. Flounder hunt where the depths change. Drop-off edges where bait like to hangout are where you’ll find them. Good places to drop your line are Four Mouths and Chincoteague Point. Flounder will ambush live and dead bait with shiners, minnows, and squid strips as typical offerings. Artificial lures like Gulp! swimming mullets will also catch them. Keeping a tight line and jigging off the bottom is a productive technique. Adjust your jig size from ¼ ounce to 2 ounces to hold your bait in the current. Fishing around the inlet, you might also encounter Northern kingfish which seem to prefer shrimp-, clam-, or crab-flavored Fishbites.

Wachapreague

You’re likely to find better fishing for flounder a little farther south in Wachapreague, known as the Flounder Capital of the World, our next stop. Fish the drop-offs and you’ll get some hookups. A good place to check out is the mouth of the main inlet or “off the Coast Guard Station.” Flounder from the ocean swim past there headed for the bays. The most consistent spot is “Swash Bay.” Think like a fish hunts and you’ll be successful, intercepting them as they go after baitfish in transition areas on moving tides. On a flood tide, try sunny spots over the mud shallows. Staying overnight or for a few days? You can’t go wrong with Teasers Fisherman’s Lodge. The one drawback to Wachapreague is that it’s very popular for flounder, so venture a bit farther south to Quinby and Oyster on the coast side or Onancock on the Chesapeake side. They might be a better choice as there are plenty of fish in those locations with less competition.

Cape Charles

Our final stop this trip is Cape Charles; however, there is a downside for anglers: If you don’t live there, you’ll have to leave at some point. The scenery is beautiful even if the fish are finicky, but the whole lower end of the peninsula is extremely fishing-friendly. The Cape Charles Yacht Center and The Oyster Farm at Kings Creek are fine places to tie up for cruisers. Cape Charles Town Harbor also offers transient slips. The town has many charming bed and breakfast accommodations and hotels. Kiptopeke boat ramp on the Chesapeake Bay is a good spot to put in a trailered boat for an $8 fee. The area called the “Concrete Ships,” which forms a breakwater for the boat ramp, often holds some hefty striped bass.

You can find stripers and speckled trout at the Cape Charles, Cherrystone, and Hungars Creek inlets. Casting spoons and topwater lures along marsh edges and stump fields will produce a mix of stripers and trout. Casting swimbaits, such as white Gulp mullets, will work along with drifting soft crab baits in the guts and channels for trout and red drum. Of course, there’s the 17.6-mile CBBT that offers an immense amount of fish-attracting structure and hosts an incredible amount of fish species this time of the year. And if you’ve got the time, the Virginia Beach inlets, Rudee and Lynnhaven, are also very fishable now.

Anglers looking to take the Virginia eastern coast fishing road trip featured in the June 2020 issue will find a number of accommodations along the way to regain your equilibrium and catch up on some sleep after a long day on the water.

 

Chincoteague
Anchor Inn
(757) 336-6400
anchorinnhotel.com

Best Western Chincoteague Island
(757) 336-6557
bestwestern.com

Channel Bass Inn Bed and Breakfast
(757) 336-6148
channelbassinn.com

Comfort Suites
(757) 336-3700
choicehotels.com

Onancock The Charlotte
(757) 787-7400
thecharlotte.com

The Inn at Onancock
(757) 789-7711
innatonancock.com

Spinning Wheel Bed and Breakfast
(757) 787-7311
1890spinningwheel.com

Wachapreague

Teasers Fisherman’s Lodge
(757) 787-2346
wachapreaguesportfishing.com

Wachapreague Inn
(757) 787-2105
wachapreagueinn.com

Cape Charles

Family Lodges at Kiptopeke State Park
(757) 331-2267
virginia.org

Fig Street Inn
(757) 331-3133
figstreetinn.com

The Oyster Farm at Kings Creek
(757) 331-8660
theoysterfarmatkingscreek.com

Shore Stay Suites
(757) 331-4090
shorestaysuites.com

Destination Key Largo

This Key’s for You

Trailer your boat down to Key Largo to experience the island life.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating March 2020

Key Largo is the first key that land yachts go through on their way into the Florida Keys. Key West is last and in between lie approximately 1,700 islands in the archipelago, including the Dry Tortugas. The Florida Keys is divided into five regions: Key Largo, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine and the Lower Keys, and Key West.

Because Key Largo is just over an hour’s drive from Miami, it’s an easy escape from the hustle and bustle of life, which isn’t hard to do when the key has one of the largest tracts of West Indian tropical hardwood hammocks in the United States, the first undersea park in the United States, and is part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. By land or by sea, Key Largo is a place full of natural life to explore. Sure, there are the usual civilized stores to provision and get eclectic gifts, as well as resorts, restaurants, and bars, but it’s nature’s abundant diversity that is the real draw.

The Wild Side

Dagny Johnson Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park is a tropical paradise full of native plants, birds, wildlife, and the delicate balance of the park’s ecosystem. There are 84 protected species of plants and animals in the park and the two-mile loop Port Bougainville Trail guides bicyclists, hikers, and birders to see it all. A self-guided nature trail winds through the tropical hardwood hammock, including a native plant butterfly garden, and a half-mile paved walk has guided tours to get a feel for the park’s diversity.

John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park has what most people expect from a state park—tent and RV camping, showers, picnic areas with barbecues, playgrounds, and the like, but it also features an underwater and aquatic playground. Coral formations and colorful marine life welcome snorkelers and divers, while 50 miles of mangrove trails take kayakers, canoers, and paddleboarders on a wilderness adventure. Bring your boat down to launch at the park or rent one of the park’s 21-foot Release center consoles. Slips (with water, electric, and facilities) and moorings are available for overnight stays.

What’s nice for many Floridians and visitors is there are plenty of places to launch trailerable boats, which makes for an enjoyable weekend or weeklong stay. Hurricane Irma wasn’t kind to the Keys, but many resorts, large and small, are reopening after extensive remodeling and rebuilding.

Dolphin Point Villas

Dolphin Point Villas is a small, family-owned resort that showcases Florida Keys living. The property features six freestanding Caribbean-style homes consisting of six villas and four suites to accommodate a family vacation, a guys’ fishing trip (or bachelor weekend), a company retreat, a wedding, or a honeymoon.

Dolphin Point, a sandy jetty outlined by coral boulders and surrounded by water, is a perfect spot for wedding vows (or a sunrise or sunset) and can hold up to 125 guests. The beautiful waterfront lawn is big enough for a large reception, and the facing 4,235-square-foot Nautilus House features five bedrooms, each with a full bath, to sleep up to 16 guests. There’s a private pool, and the open-air pavilion on the ground level is a great place for wedding gatherings.

Located a mile from Pennekamp State Park, the resort also sports a private beach, a figure eight pool, complimentary paddleboards and kayaks, and a protected marina with a free boat launch and dockage for vessels up to 24 feet.

Another cool aspect to the resort is Dolphins Plus Bayside, a marine mammal facility where you can swim with Atlantic bottlenose dolphins in an enclosed lagoon. What’s perfect is it’s right next door (and where you check in for the resort). There are a variety of programs for all ages, swimming abilities, and interaction levels, from a simple dolphin kiss to a dorsal fin ride. With so many restaurants nearby, Dolphin Point Villas is a quiet, private, clean, and comfortable place convenient to everything required when on vacation.

Baker’s Cay Resort

Hurricane Irma ravaged the Keys just as the windup to the winter season was starting in 2017. Now, resorts have come back to life, and Baker’s Cay Resort reopened last year after an 18-month closure, so, basically everything is new. Just as visiting the Florida Keys puts you into another world, Baker’s Cay takes it a step further and blends luxury with island life. As part of the Curio Collection by Hilton, the resort’s rooms and suites inspire a sense of relaxation with a modern décor and private balconies tucked in the natural flora along bayside waters.

Hilton Key Largo April 2017, photographed by Laure Joliet

Local seafood, produce, and on-site herb and fruit gardens are part of the culinary experience. The new Dock to Dish program lets guests who fish with Sea Monkey Charters bring their catch back to the resort to enjoy a specially prepared meal. Beach dining with live music and fire pits is found at Dry Rocks, with a tequila and mezcal tasting menu, and the pool bar and tiki bar help soften your day with endless water views.

For those with boats up to 45 feet, launch at Sunset Point Park and dock at the resort’s slips with fresh water and power available. Slips are $60 per night and depending on tide, the draft is four to six feet. Fuel is available at nearby Mangrove Marina or Tavernier Creek Marina.

Coconut Palm Inn

One thing about the Florida Keys is access to water. It’s everywhere, and there’s plenty of ways to enjoy it, especially by boat. If you live in South Florida, it doesn’t take long to trailer one to Key Largo, and the Coconut Palm Inn offers marina packages for those that do.

The inn overlooks Florida Bay with a private beachfront, cozy rooms and suites, lots of amenities, and a fully equipped marina, which means you can arrive by boat if you’re hopping the islands. If you’re boating on the ocean side, cut up through Tavernier Creek or Snake Creek to reach the inn. You can also trailer the boat down and launch at its ramp and take advantage of the on-site trailer parking.

Coconut Palm Inn is situated within a natural inlet with drafts around four or five feet at low tide. Two piers accommodate boats up to 25 feet long and most slips have 110V electric and freshwater hookups. Dockage is only for the inn’s guests, and there is a $30 per day fee. Nearby Mangrove Marina offers a loading dock, repairs, and fuel.

But that’s not all Coconut Palm Inn has for its guests. Besides the Old Florida charm and swaying palm trees, an outdoor heated pool, kayaks, paddleboards, and bicycles, the smoke-free resort has free Wi-Fi, charcoal barbecue grills, on-site laundry, and most rooms are bayside with a screened porch or balcony. The location is also perfect for weddings and events.

Activities

John Pennekamp State Park
(305) 451-6300
pennekamppark.com

Dagny Johnson Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park
(305) 676-3777
floridastateparks.org

Dolphins Plus
(866) 860-7946
dolphinsplus.com

Lodging (call ahead for dock reservations)

Dolphin Point Villas
(305) 451-0315
dolphinpointvillas.com

Baker’s Cay Resort
(305) 852-5553
bakerscay.com

Coconut Palm Inn
(305) 852-3017
coconutpalminn.com

Ponte Vedra Inn & Club

Wanna Get Away?

Along a wide stretch of beach just south of Jacksonville, Florida, is a place to cast away and clear your soul.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating January 2020

The last time I was in the BVI, I tucked deep behind a reef around the point from Marina Cay and Scrub Island to have a quiet, safe anchorage without the bustle of the charter fleets moored in front of the restaurants and bars on the islands. We were the only ones there because it’s a spot few realize is navigable.

The reef broke the swell and provided that soothing, repetitive sound of breaking waves as the boat gently swayed with its rhythm. It’s a soothing, somewhat secure feeling, but as a captain, there’s always a little bit of caution knowing that as peaceful as it is, something could still happen that raises the hair on your skin and requires immediate action.

What if you could take away that uneasy feeling and sit on the deck staring out over an open sea or have the wave’s rhythmic pulse lull you to sleep…without any rock and roll? A visit to Ponte Vedra Beach Resorts does just that.

When It’s Time

All of us need to have a moment when it’s time to put the world on hold and calm ourselves from within. Ponte Vedra Beach Resorts welcomes you to a retreat that allows you to reach that nirvana by doing nothing at all or letting your mind and body release its energy through a plethora of activities, relaxing at the spa, and savoring world-class cuisine.

There are two beach locations just a quick golf cart ride apart and only a 40-minute drive from Jacksonville International Airport, an easy trip for those up north with their boats wrapped and on the hard. If you’re making the passage up or down the Intracoastal Waterway and need some time off the boat to, you know, play golf or tennis, have a spa day, let someone else do the cooking, or take a long walk, St. Augustine Municipal Marina is a 45-minute drive and Palm Cove Marina is only 15 minutes away, both with transient docking and services.

Room with a View

There’s something to be said when just about all of the rooms have “oceanfront” in the description. It’s easy to understand why that soothing, “behind the reef” comfort is felt; each room has a patio or balcony that opens to the ocean. Only the Historic Inn has rooms off the beach, but each has resort, lagoon, or ocean views. The Inn opened in 1928 and showcases the grandeur of that era. Guests have the convenience of shopping and dining within steps of the elevator, and the beach is just across the street. The Inn’s Island View room overlooks the Ocean Golf Course’s 9th hole island green.

Beachfront accommodations

In addition, the resort offers 33 well-appointed, oversized suites that feature sophisticated interior design and furnishings in a variety of layouts. From the Presidential Suite to the oceanfront rooms, you’ll have the sea at your steps with the comfort of a stationary deck.

So Much to Do

Whether you stay at the Ponte Vedra Inn & Club or The Lodge & Club, there are plenty of activities to keep you moving, if you so desire.

With numerous umbrellas and chaises lining the sand, laying out and doing nothing is a popular option, but even so, the wide stretch of beach goes for more than 25 miles without a break, one way, and for some, it’s hard look down the infinite beachfront and not get up for a leisurely walk. Besides, there are really nice shells to collect. If jogging is one of your disciplines, then it’s impossible not to get up and go. Playing in the water is exercise when boogie boards, surfboards, and kayaks are available, not to mention beach games, and it’s just as much fun to take one of the beach cruiser bikes for a ride.

Relax in the family pool or get some exercise in the lap pool.

It’s easy to spend all day on the beach, but with four pools at The Inn & Club and the two at The Lodge & Club, you certainly don’t have to. Each have adult-only pools and fitness/lap pools as well as areas for families, not to mention spots to grab lunch and drinks.

Speaking of fitness, both locations have fitness centers with more than 40 exercise stations that include treadmills, elliptical trainers, Stairmasters, bicycles, rowing machines, free weights, and more. There are a multitude of exercise classes as well as the best of all: steam room, sauna, and Jacuzzi tub. Personal trainers are also available.

Every morning, the resort provides each room with a newsletter that lists the day’s activities, including kids’ programs, events, fitness classes, a chef’s corner of daily delights, tide information, and descriptions of all the dining and lounge venues, shopping options, and recreation options along with times and what they offer.

The Court and the Course

Besides the beach, the pools, and the fitness centers, there’s two other games that will get your heart rate up: tennis and golf. Sure, you’ll need to walk the course to get your steps in, but being outside in the fresh air with that special “cut grass” aroma surrounded by palm trees, a cool sea breeze, and a park-like setting, golf is intended to ease the mind…assuming you don’t let wayward shots interrupt your mental calm. Don’t let the good walk spoil.

Enjoy a round of golf at the Ocean Course!

Ponte Vedra Beach Resorts has two 18-hole courses: the Lagoon Course (located on-site) and the Ocean Course (including the infamous 9th hole island green). The Lagoon Course winds through pine trees, palms, and oaks that provide narrow fairways and tight greens. The lagoons create a beautiful setting, but are in play on 11 of the 18 holes. Keep your shots straight. The Ocean Course was designed in 1928 and selected to host the Ryder Cup in 1939, but the event was canceled due to World War II. It shows the quality of the course design and has served as a site for U.S. Open qualifying rounds. It is currently going through an $8 million renovation with completion set for this fall. The course plays tough with 99 strategically placed bunkers, elevated greens, and dramatic undulations throughout the fairways, all to help provide a relaxing game, right? A complete pro shop, lessons, clinics, repair shop, practice areas, rental clubs (and shoes, in case you left them on the boat), and the 19th hole lounge and restaurant will keep your game sharp and celebrate a day better than being in an office.

If tennis is your game, the Racquet Club is an official ATP World Tour tennis club. Tomãs Gonzalez is the director of tennis and makes sure enthusiasts receive a full complement of training, instruction, and activities to make your time on the court fun. A fully stocked pro shop has all the gear you need.

There are 15 Har Tru clay courts with eight lit for night play, private teaching courts, and a full staff of USPTA and USPTR teaching professionals. The Club is known for its intense summer tennis camp, and since tennis is definitely a sport that gets your heart pumping, there’s a steam room, sauna, and Jacuzzi waiting in the locker room, or you could walk next door to The Spa.

The Spa Treatment

If you’ve never been to a spa before, you’re in for a treat at The Spa at Ponte Vedra Inn & Club—a 30,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art facility that combines opulence with grandeur. High ceilings, statue fountains, a gourmet café, and gift shop set the mood for more pampering than you’ll need in one day, meaning you may have to go back. A therapeutic massage melts the stress away, and the steam room, sauna, and hot tub will defrost any up-north cold and rejuvenate your well-being. A new cryotherapy center promotes natural healing and wellness, albeit using cold temperatures. Add a facial or scrub, a purifying wrap, or treat yourself to a manicure, pedicure, or a new hairstyle. It’s all there to make you feel relaxed and refreshed.

On the Menu

Throughout the day, you have to keep your body nourished, and not just with water. Start your day at the Inn’s Gourmet Shop that offers an assortment of pastry and Starbucks coffee or just stop by for homemade ice cream later, since the Inn Dining Room serves a full breakfast menu.

Dinner on the beach!

If you’re at the beach, the Surf Deck Grille offers a variety of signature cocktails along with Florida coastal cuisine, which includes fish dishes, locally sourced vegetables and greens, and specialty pizzas, burgers, and sandwiches. The Beach Side Snack Bar also serves burgers, salads, cold-pressed juices, and more. Over at The Lodge & Club, the Barefoot Bistro is a poolside food truck with salads, sandwiches, a kids’ menu, and frozen treats.

The Golf Club Dining Room overlooks the Lagoon golf course and has an awesome menu with signature sandwiches, soups, and salads for lunch, and steaks, local seafood, and specialties for dinner on the deck along the lagoon or inside with expansive windows to gaze at the course setting.

As the sun sets, freshen up and head to the Seahorse Grille for an oceanfront, “upscale-but-casual dining and cocktail experience.” If you arrange it ahead of time, the Chef’s Table is in the kitchen with room for four to watch the chefs in action up close and personal as you’re treated to a 10-course tasting menu.

The Spa at Ponte Vedra Inn & Club’s gourmet cafe and lounging area

The tasting menu is a new twist to the Ponte Vedra Beach Resorts’ culinary lineup and may see its way as a regular in the dining rooms. It’s an innovative way to sample the chef’s culinary style with portions that are just the right size. Chef Erik Osol produced a menu for a Health and Wellness weekend that started with Seminole Pumpkin Salad and was followed by Foie Torchon and Persimmon, Steak Tartare and Chicharron, Scallop and Finger lime, Miso Seabass and Chive sauce, New York strip steak with mushrooms and cured egg yolk, and ended with Bitterweet Truffle Mousse. Each course was paired with a wine chosen by Resort Sommelier Matheson Cory that made every bite a delight to the palate.

No matter how you put it, some places have what it takes to completely get away. You don’t have to use the Wi-Fi if you don’t want to, and surprisingly, playing tennis or golf, walking the beach, getting a massage, and enjoying the fine dining will trick your mind into thinking you’ve been away for weeks. Put your life on hold, if only for a few days, and feel rested, relaxed, and ready to face reality with a smile. Ponte Vedra Inn & Club is one of those special places. pontevedra.com

Southern Charm – Explore South Carolina

Southern Charm

Create memories and take the time to experience a cruise along South Carolina’s ICW.

Written by: Bob Arrington

South Carolina may not be the longest stretch of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), but it certainly holds one of the prettiest sections. From the North Carolina border at Little River Inlet to the Savannah River at the Georgia border, the ICW runs through 235 miles of South Carolina’s most picturesque and historic treasures.

The beautiful sights of Myrtle Beach | Dori Arrington

Start the journey in one of the South’s most popular coastal towns, Myrtle Beach, where the ICW parallels the famous Grand Strand and runs adjacent to some of the area’s premier golf resorts. Myrtle Beach is also home to the notorious “Rock Pile,” a treacherous segment of the ICW feared by many first-time cruisers. The bottom along most of the ICW is sand or soft mud; however, there is a small section through Myrtle Beach with a rocky bottom and abrupt ledges that extend along the sides. None of the rocks are visible at high tide, but the ones along the edges are clearly seen at low tide. Running aground in most of the ICW is a nonevent and usually only requires waiting for high tide, or a quick tow off, before you’re on your way again. Running aground in the Rock Pile, though, is likely to damage your boat. Once you’ve been through the area, you’ll realize it’s not as frightening as it sounds. There is plenty of depth in this section as long as you stay in the middle of the channel.

Leaving Myrtle Beach, the ICW enters what many consider the most pristine natural section of the entire waterway, the Waccamaw River. The river meanders its way through ancient bald cypress forests in the Waccamaw National Wildlife Refuge, home to black bears and bald eagles. The refuge’s undeveloped shoreline gives the passing boater the impression they have cruised back in time by thousands of years.

Photo by: Dori Arrington

Sailing through the Waccamaw brings a boater into the headwaters of Winyah Bay, where the Waccamaw joins the Sampit and Great Pee Dee rivers. It was at this confluence where early settlers established the trading post that would eventually become the port city of Georgetown. Since its founding, Georgetown has been an important part of South Carolina’s history. As a frequent world leader in the production of indigo, rice, lumber, paper, and steel, Georgetown’s economy has evolved with the times. Today, the historic district is a living time capsule of a bygone era. Live oak trees that were planted at the time of the town’s founding still shade the streets and avenues. Georgetown’s waterfront has always been a working district; fishing and industry take advantage of the river’s bounty and easy access to the ocean. The waterfront welcomes boaters today with a lively mix of history, culture, and entertainment.

Continuing south along the ICW, the waterway passes one of South Carolina’s hidden gems: the little fishing village of McClellanville. Originally formed as the Church of England’s St. James-Santee Parish in 1706, it was a diverse mix of French Huguenots and English settlers, both trading successfully with the indigenous Sewee Indians. The area lent itself to a rich agrarian economy also based on indigo, rice, and cotton, and by the mid-1700s, grand homes had been built showing the parish’s prosperity. Many are still standing and have been lovingly preserved. McClellanville may have more historic homes for a town of its size than any other in the South. Much of the town’s most interesting history is told through exhibits at the Village Museum. The displays establish a time line beginning with the villages of the Sewee Indian tribe, who inhabited the banks of Jeremy Creek. The water in Jeremy Creek is pretty shallow at low tide, so check the depths before planning your visit to see South Carolina’s largest fleet of commercial shrimp boats. The friendly folks at Leland Oil Company’s marina will be happy to help you. Some of the largest tides and swiftest currents on the Eastern Seaboard occur along the South Carolina coast; pay close attention when navigating the area.

Battery Street in the South of Broad district in historic Charleston | By: Dori Arrington

The ICW from Winyah Bay to Charleston Harbor is a combination of manmade canals and natural waterways separating the Bonneau Ferry Wildlife Management Area from the largely uninhabited coastal barrier islands. You’ll know you’re nearing Charleston when you pass the barrier island towns of Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s Island with its triangular black and white block lighthouse.

A very popular boating destination, Charleston is the oldest and largest city in South Carolina. Art, entertainment, food, history, architectural treasures, culture, and natural beauty combine to make Charleston a veritable feast for the senses. It is a city that draws you back again and again with each visit revealing one more layer of its charm.

Cross the Saint Helena Sound to Beaufort, in the heart of what is known as the Lowcountry, along South Carolina’s Sea Islands. Note that the Beaufort in South Carolina is pronounced “Bew-furt,” and the Beaufort in North Carolina is pronounced “Bō-furt.” You will be politely corrected in either place if you confuse them.

Photo by Dori Arrington

Beaufort was founded in 1711 as the second-oldest city in South Carolina. Its location on the navigable Beaufort River has made it a valuable deepwater port for more than 300 years. Beaufort had the mixed blessing of being one of the first cities in the South to be occupied by union troops only a few months into the Civil War. The fortunate part of that is most of the town’s structures were saved as housing for the northern army during the war. Although the local residents didn’t take to that kindly at the time, today’s residents have made the best of it by restoring many of the historic homes. As a result of this careful preservation, 300 acres of the city have been designated as a national historic landmark. The collection of antebellum architecture has drawn the attention of more than one Hollywood director with such movies as The Great Santini, The Big Chill, The Prince of Tides, Forrest Gump and G.I. Jane all filmed on location. The Downtown Marina of Beaufort is under new ownership with renovations planned to welcome seasonal boaters to stop for a spell.

The last stop in South Carolina for most southbound boaters will be Hilton Head Island, originally developed by Charles E. Fraser, the son of an early island land owner. During the 1950s, Fraser saw the opportunity to build a resort community that would maintain the island’s natural beauty. His vision became Sea Pines Plantation, the first planned community and the basis for all that would follow. The first bridge was built in 1956, allowing easy access to the new resorts. This opened the island’s beaches and beauty to visitors and the future residents who enjoy the popular world-class town we know today. Numerous marinas are available to provide the visiting boater with access to some of the best golf, shopping, and dining the South has to offer.

If you give in to South Carolina’s traditional laid-back lifestyle, which encourages boaters to take their time when passing through, you will be rewarded with a very memorable experience.

Attractions Along the Way

Myrtle Beach

Marinas:
Myrtle Beach Yacht Club
(843) 249-5376
myrtlebeachyachtclub.com

Barefoot Marina
(843) 390-2011
waterwayguide.com

Grande Dunes Marina
(843) 315-7777
grandedunes.com

Restaurants:
Simply Southern Smokehouse
(843) 839-1913
simplysouthernsmokehouse.com

Things to do:
The Dunes Golf & Beach Club
(843) 449-5236
thedunesclub.net

Georgetown

Marinas:
Georgetown Landing Marina
(843) 546-1776
georgetownlandingmarina.com

Harborwalk Marina
(843) 546-4250
harborwalkmarina.com

Restaurants:
River Room
(843) 527-4110
riverroomgeorgetown.com

Big Tuna Raw Bar
(843) 546-1045
bigtunarawbar.com

Things to do:
Hopsewee Plantation
(843) 546-7891
hopsewee.com

The Rice Museum
(843) 546-7423
ricemuseum.org

South Carolina Maritime Museum
(843) 520-0111
scmaritimemuseum.org

McClellanville

Marinas:
Leland Oil Company
(843) 887-3641
waterwayguide.com

Restaurants:
T.W. Graham & Co.
(843) 887-4342
twgrahamcoseafood.webs.com

Things to do:
Village Museum
(843) 887-3030
villagemuseum.com

Charleston

Marinas:
Charleston City Marina
(843) 723-5098
charlestoncitymarina.com

Charleston Harbor Marina
(843) 856-0028
charlestonharbormarina.com

Restaurants:
FIG
(843) 805-5900
eatfig.com

Husk
(843) 577-2500
huskrestaurant.com

Things to do:
Historic Charleston City Market
(843) 937-0920
thecharlestoncitymarket.com

The Charleston Museum
(843) 722-2996
charlestonmuseum.org

Beaufort

Marinas:
Downtown Marina of Beaufort
(843) 524-4422
waterwayguide.com

Port Royal Landing Marina
(843) 525-6664
portroyallandingmarina.com

Restaurants:
Saltus River Grill
(843) 379-3474
saltusrivergrill.com

Plums
(843) 525-1946
plumsrestaurant.com

Things to do:
Hunting Island State Park
(843) 838-2011
southcarolinaparks.com

Hilton Head Island

Marinas:
Harbor Town Yacht Basin at The Sea Pines Resort
(843) 363-8335
seapines.com

Shelter Cove Harbour & Marina
(866) 661-3822
sheltercovehiltonhead.com

Restaurants:
CQ’s
(843) 671-2779
cqsrestaurant.com

ELA’s on the Water
(843) 785-3030
elasgrille.com

Things to do:
Coastal Discovery Museum
(843) 689-6767
coastaldiscovery.org

Golf at Sea Pines Country Club
(843) 671-2345
seapinescountryclub.com

Nova Scotia

Nova Scotia

Push your boundaries and head east from Maine’s northern coast to discover the rugged charm of one of Nova Scotia.

It’s time to stretch your cruising boundaries to a place that is closer to the mainland than you might expect. A place where the people are friendly, the scenery is undeniably spectacular, boating facilities are expanding, and the crush of tourists has yet to fully
blossom—Canada’s Nova Scotia.

Located on Canada’s east coast across the Bay of Fundy from St. John, New Brunswick, and off the eastern Atlantic coast of Maine, Nova Scotia is nearly an island, connected by a relatively thin strip of terra firma to the mainland. Although accessible by car, plane, and ferry, it is by private boat that you’ll really get to see this wonderland up close and personal. For those with sea legs, no other approach will do.

Discover the Unknown

Dripping with history and personality, the peninsula was discovered by Italian explorer John Cabot in 1497, and Alexander Graham Bell lived, worked, and boated in the Bras d’Or Lake region. Nova Scotia is one of four original Canadian provinces (the others being Ontario, Quebec, and New Brunswick). But closer to Maine’s northeasternmost ports and far more expansive than you might imagine, it’s population of slightly less than 1 million is spread across a massive 21,000 square miles. With such uncrowded surroundings, you’ll find it is a terrific place to slow your pace, make new friends, and simply poke around or gunkhole in the thousands of pockets, coves, harbors, rivers, and backwaters that encircle and invade the province.

For modern-day explorers who like to adventure out on their own, this is nirvana. The possibilities really are endless, and you can tackle them at your own pace. View hundreds of miles of unaltered coastline, experience wildlife encounters with everything from whales to bald eagles, and enjoy fine dining, wineries, golfing, local culture, and incredible fishing that ranges from giant tuna to Atlantic salmon found along Cape Breton Island’s western shore. Diving, snorkeling, biking, hiking, and photography are other options as is virtually any outdoor challenge that tickles your fancy.

Size Matters

“Nova Scotia may be larger than you expect,” says Adam Langley, marine director for Develop Nova Scotia. “But make no mistake about it, everyone here is connected to the sea in one way or another. In fact, no matter where you stand in our province, you’ll never be more than 42 miles from the ocean. There are seven different regions here, each featuring its own individual flavor ranging from quaint fishing villages to our bustling capital city of Halifax, wine country, mountains, lake regions, and more. Each, however, is anchored by the sea.”

All told, Nova Scotia boasts around 4,600 miles of coastline and more than 3,800 islands plus hundreds of small communities where boatbuilding still flourishes. “Their commonality? They all welcome visitors, especially the cruising kind,” adds Langley. “And allow me to let you in on a little secret. We aren’t as far away as you think.”

Cruising Options

Indeed, with the ever-increasing range and comfort capacities of private cruising craft these days, visiting Nova Scotia makes a lot of sense. You’ll need a vessel capable of carrying out the voyage across some wide-open water, but seaworthy models in the 40- to-50-foot range as well as much larger yachts make this trip with regularity and ease. Most depart from the easternmost harbors in Maine or St. John, New Brunswick, and cut across the Bay of Fundy for a brief stay in Yarmouth before rounding the point at Cape Sable Lighthouse and heading along the southern shore to the larger and more cosmopolitan Halifax.

This port, in turn, serves as a jumping-off point to slide farther north along the eastern shore to Cape Breton Island and, the pi¨ece de resistance for visiting boaters in this stretch, the Bras d’Or Lake region. Here you’ll find North America’s biggest inland sea where waters are said to be as deep as the surrounding mountains are tall.

Make it Your Own

“We took a slightly different trek on our visit here last summer,” says Milt Baker, a repeat visitor to Nova Scotia. “Departing from Southwest Harbor, Maine, we ran about two hundred nautical miles to Lunenburg in my bluewater, forty-seven-foot Nordhavn. That’s a wonderfully scenic, old-fashioned Nova Scotia town where we enjoyed several nights before heading fifty nautical miles to Halifax with its vibrant waterfront for a week-long stay. From there, we took another overnight to the brackish waters of Bras d’Or Lake, an amazing place that you’ve just got to see.

Among other establishments, we love a small village there called Baddeck where there are a number of really good restaurants plus the Alexander Graham Bell museum, simply a fascinating, world-class center that features many of its namesake’s inventions and those of his wife, also an accomplished inventor.

“Nova Scotia really is a terrific place,” continues Baker. “It’s beautiful and friendly with clean waters, and there’s always something new or different to check out. My wife and I started coming here several years ago. We love the scenery, the atmosphere, and the culture. The people here are welcoming, friendly, and helpful. That’s turned out to be one of the primary reasons we keep coming back.”

Seasons Greetings

Summer is obviously the time you’ll want to make this trip. Nova Scotia gets mighty cold in the off-season, and you best not deal with the open Atlantic come winter. Boating season, at least the tourist one, runs from May through October with July, August, and September as prime time. There is a slight hurricane threat in September, but the big storms have missed this haven over the past few years. You can expect air temperatures of 75 to 85 degrees, moderate winds out of the southwest, and water temps in the high 50s to mid to high 70s depending on which coast you dip your tootsies into. There are some stretches where you can swim without neoprene, says Langley, of the perceived cool waters here.

“Melmerby Beach and Heather Beach on the Northumberland Strait quickly come to mind as does Bras d’Or Lake where you’ll mostly dive off the back of your boat.”

Plan Ahead

As for where to start when planning your Nova Scotia visit, the Bras d’Or Lake region is a full-fledged journey but a great first choice if you have the time. Roughly 140 nautical miles northeast of Halifax, it’s known for gentle waters that are generally fog-free—a real treat in these parts. This area, Baker’s favorite, sports beautiful anchorages, hundreds of coves and islands. Even better?  It is recognized as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

Consider staying in Halifax for a few days, then work your way east along the coast to enter Bras d’Or Lake through the canal lock at St. Peter’s. Fully provision and top-off your tanks, both fuel and water, before leaving Halifax. You won’t find much heading up to St. Peter’s Canal. The Liscombe Lodge Resort and Conference Center tucked in on the Liscombe River is the only spot to get fuel, ice, and a quick bite to eat (provisions are not available). The dock can accommodate boats up to 150 feet with a 12-foot draw.

“Don’t hurry or rush if you visit Nova Scotia,” advises Langley. “There’s just so much to see and do that no matter how long you stay, you’ll never squeeze it all into a single trip. See what you can, and enjoy it to the fullest.”

Plan an extended visit if at all possible. The No. 1 mistake visiting boaters make when heading to Nova Scotia is not scheduling enough time. In addition to distance, foul weather can keep you at the dock for a day or two at any point in the boating season. “Figure you’ll need a minimum of ten days,” says Baker. “If you can stay longer, so much the better.”

Shades of Nova Scotia

Bay of Fundy: Enjoy whale-watching and experience the highest tides in the world. There are breathtaking lookoffs and fertile lush valleys and vineyards.

Lunenburg/South Shore: This picturesque active waterfront is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Lunenburg is great for boatbuilding and fishing. French and English cultures intermingle in Yarmouth and Acadian Shores.

Halifax: The best of land and sea with a cosmopolitan blend of cafés, shops, galleries, restaurants, and nightlife combined with a picturesque, full-functioning harbor. The Halifax waterfront offers more than half a mile of public berth space, including 1,500 feet of floating docks. The Harbourwalk boardwalk is home to numerous restaurants, vendors, attractions, and events.

Bras d’Or Lake: Stunning highlands and vibrant Celtic culture make Cape Breton Island a paradise of rugged coastal trails, crystalline lakes, and fascinating local museums.

Eastern Shore, 100 Wild Islands: Features private, sandy beach anchorages and breathtaking nature preserves. Includes some of the best-secluded seascapes in North America. Great for wreck diving, surfing, and bike rides across gently rolling hills.

Northumberland Strait: Stunning beaches, warm ocean water, and breathtaking sunsets. Head ashore and discover the picturesque villages with rich heritage by bike, or kick up your heels to some great local music. Anchor off Melmerby Beach Provincial Park or find one of the many secluded island beaches, such as Pictou Island’s unspoiled beauty.

Just the Halifacts:

Halifax Harbour

Travel Distances to Halifax from:

  • St. John, New Brunswick 295 nautical miles
  • Boston, MA 380 nautical miles
  • Portland, ME 330 nautical miles
  • Bar Harbor, ME 275 nautical miles
  • Newport, RI 435 nautical miles

Halifax is Nova Scotia’s capital city and a popular jumping-off spot for cruising the entire southern shore, but Yarmouth is the closest Canadian port of entry for anyone coming directly from the U.S. Subtract approximately 140 nautical miles from the distances above if Yarmouth is your initial destination. The port does have some dock space as well as anchorages and is a dedicated clearance port for Canadian Border Services.

Good to Know

Most harbors in Nova Scotia have a government wharf. However, these are quite rough with docking limited or unavailable. Be safe and check ahead whenever possible. Also, note that many public slips lack electric and some might not have water or even restroom facilities. The farther you progress from the primary ports, the more you’ll need to be self-sufficient. Always carry full provisions, and be aware of the next fuel, food, and lodging possibilities.

Additional Resources

Nova Scotia Boating Guide: developns.ca/visit

Boating in Nova Scotia: novascotia.com/see-do/outdoor-activities/boating

If you’re a golfer, sign up for the Harb’r Cup at Fox Harb’r Resort on Nova Scotia’s northern coast September 3-5. Two spots are open for readers interested in this invitation-only event. Contact kimberly@kimberlyibarra.com.

Maine Cruising Itinerary

Maine Cruising Itinerary

Take a week to explore the coastal life from Portland to Camden with this Maine cruising itinerary.

Who wouldn’t want a chance to get a taste of cosmopolitan Portland, Maine’s mid-coast and Downeast areas, and explore its working watermen villages? Missy Johnston, owner, president and senior yacht charter specialist at Northrop-Johnson Yacht Charters Newport, recommends the following weeklong Portland to Camden Maine cruising itinerary for any sailor looking to experience all of the fantastic amenities and attractions along the coast of Maine.

Maine’s rocky, rugged coastline is resplendent with islands, coves, bays, anchorages, and wildlife (harbor seals, minke and finback whales, Atlantic puffins, and more), while its coastal towns and villages lure visitors with their working harbors, art galleries, historic theaters, and restaurants serving up fresh Maine lobster.

Capt. Brian Warner of the 86-foot, Custom Line Navetta 26 Slainte III has cruised this route multiple times and praises its natural beauty; however, he warns captains that morning fog (which usually lifts but sometimes persists throughout the day), lobster pots and rocks are a few of the challenges, and adds, “The most popular anchorages have good holding in a muddy bottom, but you need to be aware of rocks, which can sometimes hang you up.”

If you’re planning to explore on your own, Warner advises that you “read as many
area cruising guides as possible, use good charts and look out the window instead of
at your chartplotter all the time.”

DAY 1: Portland to Boothbay Harbor

Start your week at DiMillo’s Marina in the heart of Portland’s revitalized warehouse

district, Old Port. Full provisioning and marine services are available. It’s also worth spending a night or two here before your cruise to explore the area’s nightlife, microbreweries, farm/ocean-to-table restaurants, 19th, and 20th-century architecture, markets, museums, and boutique shopping.

Booth Bay Harbor is worth the trip.

A few blocks from the waterfront is the Arts District, home to the Portland Museum of Art, the Wadsworth-Longfellow House (poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s (1807-1882) childhood home) and more.

Casco Bay and its many islands border Portland to the east. After a short cruise southeast, you’ll be treated to a view of the Portland Head Light, Maine’s oldest lighthouse.

Take a turn to the northeast and continue 32 nautical miles through Casco Bay past Halfway Rock and Sequin Island before rounding the Cuckolds to head north into well-protected Boothbay Harbor. The region has a lengthy shipbuilding history, which continues today, with shipyards building luxury yachts, tugboats, modern lobster boats, and more.

Dock or moor at one of the marinas, or anchor on the west side of the harbor near Mill Cove. Then, wander around town, seeking out the perfect dinner and possibly catching a performance at the prestigious Opera House.

DAY 2: Boothbay Harbor to Monhegan Island

Classic lobster boats fill the harbors.

Today’s destination, following a 17.5-nautical mile cruise south and then east, is car-free Monhegan Island, a small, hilly, rocky island 10 miles from the nearest mainland and a longtime haven for artists. Peruse its art studios and hike some of its often steep and strenuous trails, which lead through woodlands and up to high cliffs such as Whitehead and Burnt Head. Guest moorings and anchorages are first-come, first-served. Contact
the harbormaster when you’re near the island for suggestions.

DAY 3: Monhegan Island to Tenants Harbor

Today’s stop in the Maine cruising itinerary takes you fifteen nautical miles to the northeast past Mosquito Island and back along the fingers of the Maine coast. You’ll cruise into Tenants Harbor. Moor in the harbor (contact the  Tenants Harbor Boatyard, tenantsharborboatyard.com, for a rental), then come ashore to stretch your legs and browse the village shops.

For the true art historian, catch a taxi to the Olson House in Cushing, a 30-minute country ride up through Thomaston and back south to see the colonial farmhouse that was the
subject of numerous works by American painter Andrew Wyeth, including Christina’s World (1948). Lighthouse lovers can taxi south from Tenants Harbor to Marshall Point
Lighthouse which sits on a rocky point with a long wooden runway connecting it to the house. It’s the spot where Tom Hanks ended a leg of his cross-country run in the 1994 film Forrest Gump.

DAY 4: Tenants Harbor to Vinalhaven

Vinalhaven has one of the world’s largest fleets of lobster boats.

Head out on today’s 19.5-nautical mile cruise east then northeast passing south of the Muscle Ridge islands then sail up across southern Penobscot Bay to Vinalhaven, Maine’s largest offshore island community. Carvers Harbor, on Vinalhaven’s southern end, is home to one of the world’s largest lobster fishing fleets.

Anchor or moor in the inside of the harbor, says Warner, then “relax and take in the sights of a town that doesn’t want to be found.” One such sight is Lane’s Island, a land preserve south of town, with a couple miles of trails and a few different species of birds for birdwatching.

DAY 5: Vinalhaven to Swan’s Island (via Cranberry Isles)

Venture into Maine’s Downeast, cruising 31 nautical miles east/northeast to the Cranberry Isles. The five islands are named for their low-bush cranberries and boasting views of nearby Acadia National Park’s mountains. Moor if your yacht is less than 50 feet. Or anchor in small, lobster buoy-filled Islesford Harbor on Little Cranberry Island. Definitely visit the  Islesford Historical Museum and art galleries.

Afterward, backtrack 11 nautical miles to Swan’s Island and moor along Burnt Coat  Harbor’s southwest side north of the Burnt Coat Harbor Lighthouse. Spend the afternoon visiting one or more of this lobstering island’s three small villages. Be sure to catch the sunset from the lighthouse on Hockamock Head. Or, take an adventure to find Fine Sand Beach.

DAY 6: Swan’s Island to Bar Harbor

Wander the scenic streets of Bar Harbor, ME.

Today, cruise 25 nautical miles northeast past the Cranberrys. Take in the rocky, forested shores of Acadia National Park on Mount Desert Island. Arrive in Bar Harbor, a
popular vacation destination and the gateway to the Park. After docking at Harborside Marina on Frenchman Bay, set off for a hike in the national park. Perhaps you’ll summit Cadillac Mountain on a 7.1-mile return adventure. After dinner, if you’re still awake, see a show at the 1932 Criterion Theatre.

DAY 7: Bar Harbor to Camden

Don’t stuff yourself at breakfast. The highlight today is a lunchtime lobster boil (lobster, clams, chorizo or Kielbasa, red boiling potatoes, and corn), which is a fun way to take a break on your voyage to Camden. Cruise south from Bar Harbor back around the  Cranberrys, past the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse and up through the dramatic Eggemoggin Reach. You’ll have Little Deer Isle to port and pass under the Deer Isle Bridge. Once around Eggemoggin on the northern tip of the island, head southwest to tiny Barred Island, just past Hog Island. It’s an uninhabited island split by a beach.

With a full belly, cruise 45 nautical miles through the islands of Islesboro and into West
Penobscot Bay to Camden, a harbor at the foot of the Camden Hills. (Call the Camden harbormaster for a dock in town.) Then make the most of your remaining Maine moments. Peruse the downtown shops. Maybe check out the views over Camden Harbor and Penobscot Bay from the Mount Battie trail in Camden Hills State Park. Or, attend a performance at the historic Camden Opera House.

Your heart may yearn for another week of exploration on this Maine cruising itinerary. But rest assured, Camden is a picturesque place to finish, evoking a sense of the area’s rich maritime history. “In the evening,” says Johnston, “with all the wooden schooners home at the docks and on mooring balls, one can envision what a Maine harbor looked like in the 1800s.”

Charming? Absolutely.

By Kara Murphy, Southern Boating July 2019

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