An Expert Cruiser’s Guide To The Turks And Caicos Islands

The Turks and Caicos may just be a small archipelago, but there is so much to do.

It’s easy to get to the Turks and Caicos. Just hug the west side of the Bahamas in a southeasterly direction and you’ll run right into them. You’ll have to keep an eye out, though, because the Bahamas islands don’t just line up like a highway lane, and there’s a lot of water to cross once you pass Acklins Island, not to mention any weather. Of course, you could always take to the air. There are many flights, including direct, not only from the Caribbean, but also from major cities along the U.S. Eastern Seaboard, Canada, and London, England. Whether you anchor in a bay or stay in a luxury resort, the Turks and Caicos have more to offer than one might believe.

The Setup

The Turks and Caicos are a British Overseas Territory made up of about 40 islands, eight of which are inhabited. Because the islands are located just south of the Bahamas chain, they are still in the tropical Atlantic and not part of the Caribbean. The islands, especially Providenciales, are the perfect spot for yachts to stopover, refuel, and reprovision. 

“The provisioning on the island is comparable to a U.S. grocery store along with a couple of specialty wine stores,” says a rep at South Bank Marina and Boat Yard. Providenciales is halfway between Florida and Puerto Rico, and there are a number of marinas and harbors that offer services from haul-out repairs, fuel, and dock space to restaurants and lodging. 

Like the Bahamas, though, the shallows of the southern Lucayan Archipelago that provide the awesome water colors can be tricky for navigation. The Caicos Bank is surrounded by an expansive and vibrant barrier reef, including many reefs on the bank close to the islands. The barrier reef is one of the largest in the Western Hemisphere. Needless to say, snorkeling and diving are
a main attraction. 

Undoubtedly, the ocean depths quickly become shallow as you approach the bank, so be aware. The bank’s depth averages less than 20 feet. In comparison, the depths can reach around 12,000 feet between the Dominican Republic and the Caicos Bank, and the Turks Island Passage that separates the Caicos and Turks islands has depths of nearly 6,500 feet. Those transitions offer some great fishing opportunities.   

Approaching the Turks and Caicos Islands

Providenciales, also known as Provo, is home to the majority of the Turks and Caicos population and, as such, has the largest concentration of marinas, resorts, shops, and restaurants. The barrier island is approachable from the north and the south, but as mentioned, navigation can be tricky. 

“Navigation aids are not always reliable, and shifting sands and submerged rocks and reefs are just some of the hazards,” advises the Waterway Guide, suggesting that daylight travel with sunlight and good weather is best.  

The Blue Haven Marina, an IGY marina, is approached through the Leeward Cut, a fairly direct route that travels past the nature reserve islands of Little Water Cay and Mangrove Cay. The marina can accommodate yachts up to 200 feet and is paired with the Blue Haven Resort and its amenities, such as a private beach, infinity pool, bars, and restaurants. You can anchor south of the marina with good holding in 7-12 feet mean low water (MLW). 

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Turtle Cove Marina is approached by a more complex and tighter route through Sellars Cut. The two-mile-long route is fairly well marked, but it’s suggested that boats stay in the middle of the channel. 

Both cuts are susceptible to high ocean swells and winds from the north or east, but when in doubt, both marinas offer complimentary pilot assistance to guide you in.

Access the southside marinas when coming from the west through the Sandbore Channel. It cuts through the reef about two nautical miles from the northwest point of West Caicos and runs about two-and-a-half nautical miles. It’s a relatively straight path with a depth about 10-15 feet, but as the Waterway Guide suggests, “Favor the north side, which is better defined due to the blue deep-water road and the white of the sand bore.” 

Once inside, Sapodilla Bay is a well-protected anchorage, or you can keep going to reach the South Bank Marina and Shipyard and the South Side Marina. 

If you get a chance, climb Sapodilla Hill for an elevated view of the islands and rock carvings. The route into the southside marinas is scattered with coral heads and rocks, so call the marinas for guidance when navigating to their location. 

It’s important to have the most recent chart updates loaded or in hand. Having a guide book, such as the Waterway Guide, is beneficial because there is more information about the destination, the routes, marinas and anchorages, weather, requirements, things to do, and what’s ashore than what’s found on the chart alone. Plus, the Waterway Guide is available as an app on your mobile device. Flow and Digicel provide coverage in the islands.

There are minimal services on the islands of North Caicos, Middle Caicos, and South Caicos, as the depths are limiting and the population is sparse. There are not a lot of facilities for cruising boats in South Caicos, but groceries and fuel are available in Cockburn Harbour, and SeaView Marina can accommodate yachts up to 100 feet, but is primarily for smaller vessels. It’s also a good staging point to head over to Grand Turk. 

The Turks are exposed to the Atlantic Ocean and is not considered a cruising ground. It is an entry/exit point, but if it’s a cruise ship day, you may be waiting a while to check in. Most of the cruise ship companies stop at the Grand Turk Cruise Center owned and operated by Carnival Cruise Line. 

There are National Park anchorages off Cockburn Town, and if you do manage to go ashore, there are numerous attractions worth checking out. 

Once You’re In

Safely docked or anchored, there is much to explore in the Turks and Caicos. Cockburn Town on Grand Turk is the government seat for the Turks and Caicos and was once the home of a U.S. Air Force center that aided in the recovery of space capsules after splashdown, including John Glenn’s Friendship 7 in 1962. The surrounding ocean is where all the capsules returned during the U.S. space program’s early days. Grand Turk is also the home of the Turks and Caicos National Museum and the Grand Turk lighthouse, which was completed in 1852 and stands 60 feet tall. 

If your visit is via a cruise ship, the Grand Turk Cruise Port has plenty of shore excursion activities, including the Flowrider surf pool and a day trip to neighboring Margaritaville Grand Turk with its beach, pools, bars, restaurants, and shopping. There’s no public transportation, so if you want to tour around on your own, rent a car or hire a taxi, but the speed limit is only 20 mph. 

The Turks and Caicos are primarily a beach destination, but they are renowned for reef diving, snorkeling, water sports, and watching humpback whales during their migration between December and April. Then there’s fishing on and off the bank for bonefish, bottom fish, and blue-water fish. How about exploring the Conch Bar Caves or paddling over the Ocean Hole off Middle Caicos? The Ocean Hole is 250 feet deep which creates a deep-blue color in the sandy turquoise shade of the shallow bank. North Caicos has Cottage Pond, another 250-foot deep blue hole that is more of a scenic pond than a swimming hole; however, it’s good for bird watching and is easily accessible. Another smaller sinkhole at 60 feet deep is found on Providenciales in Long Bay, but is in its natural state, so there are no facilities and requires caution when viewing.

There are 11 national parks, 10 wetlands, nine nature reserves, seven historical sites, and four sanctuaries throughout the Turks and Caicos. Charter excursions are limited to the parks on North and Middle Caicos primarily because of the shallow drafts and limited support staff. Big Blue Collective is an eco-tour operator with a fleet of kayaks, paddleboards, and small-group adventure boats that can arrange customized outings.

Some of the best beaches are on Providenciales, including Sapodilla, Grace Bay, Turtle Tail, and Leeward Beach to name a few. In fact, Providenciales has beaches on all sides with Grace Bay hosting most of the hotels, resorts, and villas. And that list is just as long. The Blue Haven Resort is a luxury all-inclusive resort on Leeward Beach. Beaches Turks and Caicos is on Grace Bay. 

If you decide to stay awhile, make Providenciales your home. The South Bank Marina and Shipyard is part of Windward Development’s South Bank. Managed by Grace Bay Resorts, real estate is available in four unique neighborhoods.

There is so much to do in the Turks and Caicos, so before you go, check your charts and guidebooks if arriving by sea. Get your passports ready, and take a look at visittci.com for everything there is to see and do, including all the restaurants that have their own long lists. 

-by Pamela Stephens

St. Simons Island Boating: Embark on a Luxury Adventure

Cruising to St. Simons Island

St. Simons Island, nestled along the southeastern coast of Georgia, is an idyllic haven for boating enthusiasts. With its pristine waterways, breathtaking vistas, and a rich maritime heritage, this charming island beckons sailors, fishermen, and boaters alike. Whether you’re a seasoned mariner or a novice just dipping your toes into the boating world, St. Simons Island has something special to offer you.

A Voyage Through History

St. Simons Island and its surrounding area have a rich and multifaceted history that spans centuries, from Native American settlements to colonial times and beyond. The region is a tapestry woven with the stories of indigenous cultures, European exploration, colonization, and the struggles and triumphs of the people who have inhabited this land.

Boating in St. Simons Island is not merely a recreational pursuit; it’s a journey through maritime yesteryear. The island’s roots are deeply entwined with seafaring traditions dating back to the colonial era. Explore the St. Simons Lighthouse and Museum which stands as a sentinel to the island’s rich nautical past. The lighthouse’s towering presence and the adjacent maritime museum provide insight into the island’s maritime legacy, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and curious adventurers alike.

The Diverse Waterways 

One of the most enticing aspects of boating on St. Simons Island is the sheer diversity of waterways to explore. The island is nestled among the serene waters of the St. Simons Sound, the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), and the vast Atlantic Ocean. These pristine waterways offer opportunities for cruising, kayaking, paddleboarding, and more. The calm, protected waters of the sound make it an ideal place for novices, while the open ocean beckons experienced mariners to set sail for adventures offshore.

The area also has a selection of well-equipped marinas catering to boaters’ needs. Morningstar Marinas at Golden Isles, for example, is a full-service marina that provides boat slips, amenities like a swimming pool, and easy access to the ICW and Atlantic Ocean. St. Simons Island Marina, located in the heart of St. Simons Village, offers convenient access to shops, restaurants, and historic sites. These marinas extend a warm welcome and essential services to make your journey enjoyable and stress-free.

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A Fisherman’s Paradise

For anglers, St. Simons Island is nothing short of a fishing paradise. The island’s waters teem with a wide variety of fish, including redfish, speckled trout, flounder, cobia, grouper, and more. If you are visiting by land, it is easy to charter a fishing boat or head to the St. Simons Pier, where locals and visitors gather to reel in their catches and swap fish tales.

Unspoiled Natural Beauty and Wildlife

While cruising around St. Simons Island, don’t miss the opportunity to explore the nearby barrier islands, such as Little St. Simons Island and Cumberland Island. These uninhabited gems offer a glimpse into unspoiled natural beauty, pristine beaches, and abundant wildlife. Cumberland Island is home to feral horses and historic sites like the Dungeness Ruins, providing a unique and enriching excursion for nature enthusiasts.

Land Adventures and Exploration

Visiting St. Simons Island is not just about the sea; it’s about the complete experience. Once you’ve docked your boat or wrapped up a day of cruising, there are plenty of fantastic on-shore adventures to explore.

Wander down the scenic Avenue of the Oaks, lined with ancient oak trees draped in Spanish moss. It’s a perfect spot for a leisurely stroll or a relaxing picnic. Or head for East Beach, which is great for swimming, sunbathing, and water sports. Its wide shoreline offers plenty of space for relaxation and fun. Another great place to unwind and enjoy the ocean breeze is Neptune Park, a family friendly destination with a playground, mini-golf, and a fishing pier. 

History buffs might want to climb to the top of the iconic St. Simons Lighthouse for panoramic views of the island and learn about its maritime history in the museum below. Explore the well-preserved remains of Fort Frederica National Monument, an 18th-century British fort and settlement that offers insight into the island’s colonial history. You can also visit one of Georgia’s oldest churches, Christ Church, dating back to 1820, and admire its extraordinary architecture and serene cemetery.

Delectable Cuisine and Dining Experiences

Exploring St. Simons Island isn’t complete without indulging in its delicious cuisine. Whether you’re in the mood for fresh seafood, Southern barbecue, or fine dining, the island’s restaurants have you covered.

Indulge in fresh seafood and Southern favorites while enjoying ocean views from the outdoor seating at The Crab Trap. Another great place for regional seafood is Georgia Sea Grill. The upscale menu combines classic and contemporary flavors. Echo, located in the King and Prince Beach & Golf Resort, also offers elegant dining with a focus on locally sourced ingredients and creative flavors.

Looking for something more casual? Café Frederica is a charming café known for its delicious breakfast and lunch options. Enjoy a cozy atmosphere and friendly service. Or treat your taste buds to authentic Southern barbecue in a laid-back setting at Southern Soul Barbeque. Don’t miss the mouthwatering ribs and homemade sides.

Luxurious Resorts and Accommodations

After a day of boating and exploring, you’ll need a comfortable place to rest your head. St. Simons Island offers a range of resorts and accommodations for every preference.

The Cloister at Sea Island is a luxurious and world-renowned resort with top-notch amenities and a stunning beachfront location. The historic oceanfront King and Prince Beach & Golf Resort offers luxurious accommodations, a golf course, a spa, and direct access to the beach. Just a short drive from St. Simons, the world-renowned Sea Island Resort boasts top-notch amenities, including golf, spa, fine dining, and beautiful surroundings. And the Ocean Lodge, a boutique hotel with stylish rooms and stunning ocean views, offers a relaxing atmosphere and personalized service.

St. Simons Island offers a blend of history, adventure, delicious cuisine, beautiful beaches, and natural beauty. The island’s sparkling waters and maritime charm provide an unforgettable experience, making St. Simons Island a boating destination unlike any other along the Georgia coast. Whether you’re drawn to the rich maritime history, the diverse waterways, the fishing, or the on-shore adventures, this island truly has something for everyone. So, hoist your anchor and set sail for the enchanting waters of St. Simons Island, where adventure and history await at every turn. 

-by Michele Allen

Ultimate Boating Guide: A Week in the Florida Keys

Decide whether to take the inside or outside route before you go.

It’s always smart to use a Florida Keys boating itinerary when you embark on a new journey. Having lived aboard our own 44-foot trawler and traveled the island chain for years, we believe that any time is terrific to cruise the Keys!

This time our journey takes us from lower Biscayne Bay to Marathon on Vaca Key. But we have a slight dilemma—inside or outside route?

Planning Your Florida Keys Boating Itinerary- Inside or Outside Route? How to Decide:

When planning your Keys Cruise, shallow-draft boats (less than 4 feet deep) can easily travel the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), also called the Inside or Bayside Route. Deeper-draft boats may opt for the Outside or Ocean Route via Hawk Channel. This channel is 15-20 feet deep and runs along the ocean side of the Keys between the land and the barrier reef to the southeast. The reef acts as a wave dampener to allow for serene ocean runs.

Wind and weather also help in your decision to travel inside versus outside. The islands do a good job of tamping down the fetch, so on a good day with northwest winds, the ocean route may be calm one mile offshore. But if the wind is southeasterly, you may change course to the inside route for a smoother ride.

Exploring the Inside Route: Island Hopping in the Keys

As part of our Florida Keys boating itinerary, let’s explore the Inside Route. The string of Florida Keys begins at Boca Chita, part of Biscayne National Park, with a very small but well-protected harbor. Although it offers no water, electricity, or trash collection, the natural beauty of the scrub and surrounding crystal-blue water is a terrific start to your journey. If you are lucky to arrive when the park rangers are present, you may be able to climb the 65-foot lighthouse. What a view!

Continuing the Inside Route from Biscayne Bay, you’ll meander into Card Sound with plenty of opportunities to anchor. A plow anchor is most effective in the Florida Keys because of the limestone seafloor, also called hard pan. If you’ve never anchored here, try it out for lunch and an afternoon snorkel. Once you’ve mastered setting the hook in the hard pan, your options for anchoring are almost endless. Please stay off the seagrass and anchor only in the white sandy bottom.

Jewfish Creek provides your first opportunity to stop overnight in a full-service marina. As you wind your way from the sound and into the mangrove-lined channel, you will be treated to birds of all colors and sizes soaring and swooping as they search for their dinner. They won’t have to look too hard as these shallow waters are chock-full of fish. You may even spy a bright-green iguana camouflaged in the sun-filtered leaves of the mangroves. Just south of the Belize Blue 65-foot bridge, you’ll find your choice of two marinas with power, fuel, and a pump-out. Tiki huts dot the beach where you can sip on a frozen coconut concoction while waiting for your dinner to arrive. 

Heading south into Blackwood then Buttonwood sounds, experience the shallows of Florida Bay. Keep a sharp eye as you navigate to stay in the deepest water. Hidden in these gorgeous blues and greens are sandbars aplenty. Although the channels are well-marked, it’s a great idea to plan your course in advance and know what to expect. A good pair of binoculars and polarized sunglasses can help your crew to spot the buoys and day beacons needed to cross the banks with ease.

Tavernier offers a few more marinas in addition to a local grocery store or a night off for the chef at a shoreside restaurant. It’s always a fun adventure tasting fresh fish of the local cuisine.

As the channel opens to the unprotected bay, don’t fret! If the winds are not in your favor, you have an opportunity to cross over to the Outside Route just below Lower Matecumbe at Channel 5. Be cautious using any of the smaller creeks above Channel 5. The fixed bridges may not be tall enough for your boat, and the moving tide can create currents 5 knots or faster.

The Allure of the Outside Route: Ocean Adventures

If your draft is deeper than 4 feet or the weather forecast is spectacular, the Hawk Channel route might be a better option than the shallows of the Florida Bay. Leaving from Miami’s Government Cut, you can have an easy day that ends with choices: anchor, snag a mooring ball, or tie-up at a marina. 

John Pennekamp State Park 

Nestled on the oceanside of Key Largo is John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. Reserve a slip with power or snag a mooring ball with a short run to the dinghy dock. Dive or snorkel near Dry Rocks to see reef fish and the famous underwater Christ of the Abyss statue. Be attentive to the Sanctuary Preservation Areas marked with buoys so boaters can visit without damaging the reef as good stewards of our environment.

Still eager to explore but aren’t a diver? Rent a kayak to skirt the mangroves and enjoy the sultry surroundings. Take a tour on their glass bottom boat to see the reef without even getting wet.

If you need to shore up your land legs, you will find tropical hammocks with native flora and fauna to discover while you hike or picnic. Then take in a natural history exhibit and an amazing 30,000-gallon saltwater aquarium in air-conditioned comfort. 

Anchor Overnight in the Ocean

A few miles south, Rodriguez Key has an almost-360-degree anchoring option to provide a wind break. If you prefer to plug in, there are many marinas in Key Largo and Islamorada. Select a dock in a man-made canal, but be cautious making some of the 90-degree blind turns—one fondly referred to as Crash Corner. A preemptive security call on the VHF radio or a prolonged blast of your horn will alert other boaters before you proceed.

Ready to fish? The Florida Keys offer an abundance of species that will provide an adventure to remember. Be sure your fishing license is up-to-date and add a crawfish permit if you’re lobstering this season. Don’t forget the melted butter!

Final Destination: Marathon’s Coastal Charms

Nearing our final destination, remember the crossover option at Channel 5. If the southeast winds are creating a bumpy ocean ride, this wide channel allows you to hop back under the 65-foot bridge to the Inside ICW route. There are anchorages on each side of the bridge to wait out the weather from either direction. When the weather eases, mooring balls and marinas await. Boot Key Harbor, here we come!

New and legendary marinas with fabulous dining options are ready to sample. Walk, bike, or take the train to tour Pigeon Key on the Old 7-mile bridge. Peek over the historic railroad railings and see rays swimming below when tide is slack. Position yourself for an unobstructed view of sunset, and you might catch the elusive green flash.

Provisioning options for your return trip are plentiful in big-name grocery chains and locally owned small stores. Barracudas is our favorite fine-dining establishment that’s been around for decades, but your choices are endless here in paradise. Looking for Keys casual? Thatched roof waterside restaurants are a great place to sip chilled wine, cold beer, and umbrella drinks. Swim with the dolphins or visit the Turtle Hospital tomorrow.

Come enjoy all that pleasure boating has to offer because any time of year is terrific for cruising the Keys. Be sure to keep this Florida Keys boating itinerary handy for your next visit!

-by Chris Caldwell

An Abacos Boating Itinerary: New Adventures Await

A Week in the Abacos

Plan your escape with the perfect Abacos boating itinerary for the busy boater who needs to get away.

It’s no surprise that during 2020 and 2021, there were record boat sales as folks turned to boating to create a COVID-free environment in a world of lockdowns and mask mandates. Investment portfolios were healthy, so for many, a family-size express cruiser was the perfect solution. It is spacious and self-contained so once you left the dock, apart from an occasional stop for fuel, you could discontinue all the health protocols in your luxurious personal bubble on the water. The itch to go further afield has been there since the early days, but initially there was no place to go as the world was locked down. Now that business is back in full swing, work is preventing you from getting away for more than a week.

So where do you go to get the most out of a week off? The Bahamas is the answer, but it’s a big country with more than 700 islands spread over an area larger than New England and New York combined. Bimini is the closest island, but a week there will seem long for most people. It’s better for a power weekend which makes it a good fallback in case you get delayed by weather. The Berry Islands are a possibility, but they lack variety. If your crew wants nightlife in addition to natural beauty, you will be hard-pressed to keep them happy, unless they believe that 9PM is boater’s midnight. Eleuthera or Exuma are simply too far away even for a 20- to 25-knot express cruiser to cover in a week, and the rest of the Bahamas would require flying to a boat if all you have are seven days.

For those with limited time, the Abacos are tantalizingly close and always receive high marks for the clarity of the water and the quality of the fishing. But more importantly, they offer the greatest variety of destinations as well as boasting a higher concentration of marinas than any other part of the country aside from Nassau. You might say the Abacos were made for boaters. The following is an itinerary to make the most of a week in paradise.

Embarking on the Adventure: Your Seven-Day Abacos Boating Itinerary

Day One: Arrival and Customs Clearance

With just a week, it is more efficient to clear customs as close as possible to where you want to spend your time. Grand Cay in the northwest corner of the Abacos is a favorite destination for families who enjoy world-class fishing and diving. Located approximately 100 miles from the east coast of Florida, it is easily within reach for most boats without refueling, and at express cruiser speeds, one can leave after breakfast and arrive well before dinner. There is a choice of marinas ranging from the well-established Rosie’s Place in Grand Cay to the open but still under construction revival of Walker’s Cay Marina in nearby Walker’s Cay. Since the same customs officer serves both locations, clearing in is a quick procedure and provided Click2Clear was completed correctly, you can be underway in less than 15 minutes. If you prefer to overnight ashore after a long day on the water, book a guest cottage at Rosie’s Place. Staying there offers a chance to meet some of the locals, many of whom are also dive and fishing guides, and dine at the well-known marina restaurant.

Day Two: You Abacos Boating Itinerary takes you into Grand Cay

Sleeping in is not an option as the local roosters start crowing long before sunrise. By daylight, the hard-working fishermen who live on Grand Cay are getting their gear ready for a day on the water. It’s a great time to walk the docks and strike up a conversation because they are never too busy to point out a few choice spots to a newcomer but know they will always direct you away from where they are working. Even without a recommendation, the reef apron north of Walker’s Cay National Park is a mere six miles away, and the large, healthy coral heads offer spectacular snorkeling. If shelling is more your speed, the beaches along Wells Bay and Baker’s Bay provide some good finds. And if simply sitting in the cockpit with your morning coffee to recover from the previous day’s travel sounds good, the buzz of activity in the harbor is a continuous reality show. For lunch, consider Etta J’s snack bar for cheap and cheerful Bahamian fare, and for dinner, try fresh seafood and some of Maxine’s famous conch fritters over at Ron’s Hot Spot, an eclectic place that combines pool tables with fine dining on handmade lace tablecloths. In a small town, you have to be versatile.

Day Three: The Wonders of Double Breasted Cays

Today will be a special treat as you make your way over to Double Breasted Cays, a collection of long narrow rocks only three nautical miles away from Grand Cay. Between the rocks are arguably the prettiest anchorages in the country. Whether you choose a spear or rod, the sportfishing around Double Breasted is first rate, and everything from pelagic species like mahi-mahi and tuna to snapper, grouper, hogfish, and conch are abundant making it easy for even a fishing novice to bring home dinner. After a full day on the reef, having a sundowner on the inner beach at Double Breasted is a perfect way to unwind before cooking the day’s catch.

Day Four: Journey to Green Turtle Cay

Following our Abacos boating itinerary, today’s destination is Green Turtle Cay (GTC); A 65-nautical mile jaunt southeast on the Little Bahama Bank. The trip is relatively weatherproof—provided winds remain under 25 knots, it is possible to make the trip on the relatively protected waters of the Little Bahama Bank, but if the weather isn’t to one’s taste, remaining within the well-protected confines of Double Breasted should not be a hardship. A mid-morning departure from Double Breasted will have you pulling into your choice of marina, mooring, or anchorage at GTC by mid-afternoon with plenty of time to wander the narrow streets of New Plymouth Settlement and take in the sights of its Loyalist heritage while discussing where to go for a pre-dinner sundowner. A popular spot is poolside at Pineapples Bar which is accessible by both boat and golf cart.

Day Five: Weather Check and Exploring Hope Town

Today you must assess if the weather supports going farther or if it’s time to start thinking about heading back toward Florida. In a perfect world, you can make it back to Florida in a single day from most locations in the Abacos, but a prudent mariner always includes some reserve to accommodate sudden forecast changes. If the weather permits continued travel, you can remain in GTC for another day to walk the gorgeous beaches with possibly a short side trip to No Name Cay to visit the swimming pigs of Abaco or head 25 nautical miles southeast to Hope Town and check out its iconic Elbow Cay Lighthouse that is nearing the completion of a full post-Dorian restoration.

Hope Town was ground zero when Hurricane Dorian battered Abaco in 2019, and while some classic locations such as the Hope Town Lodge were damaged beyond repair, what remains have been lovingly brought back to postcard perfection. With great marinas, well-protected moorings, and good anchorages just outside of the inner harbor, there are options to suit every taste. For example, it is possible to take a mooring ball in the inner harbor and call the Abaco Inn for its shuttle to bring you back for an elegant dinner overlooking the sea or dock you boat at the Firefly Resort for world-class cuisine.

Day Six: Sunset at Great Sale Cay

With your Abacos boating itinerary coming to a close, we head northwest to a couple of options to enjoy. First, there’s Great Sale Cay for a well-protected night on the hook to enjoy your last Bahamian sundowner of the trip. Or, if the conditions are settled, continue another 20 nautical miles to Mangrove Cay where there is less protection but the location makes for a shorter trip home the next day. Keep in mind that both spots are without cell coverage so be sure to check the weather before you’re in the vicinity of Fox Town on Little Abaco.

Day Seven: The Voyage Home

Head back home across the Gulf Stream unless you call the office as you pass the cell tower at West End, Grand Bahama, and—cough, cough—need a few more days to—cough, cough—recuperate from a nasty cold. The Bahamas is the perfect cure.

-by Addison Chan

Discover Abaco Beach Resort: Have A Luxurious Bahamas’ Getaway

Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina

A luxurious getaway in the Bahamas

“The peak of the vacation season started early this year,” says Brent Ingraham, director of sales and marketing for Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina. “We are anticipating robust occupancy once the season starts between April and August.”

Setting the Stage for a Memorable Vacation

That said, Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina is just 165 miles off the Florida coast and on a good day, the speeds reached by the new outboards could have you over there in a few hours. Then again, book a flight to Abaco and be there in about an hour. However you arrive, there is so much to do whether you have a boat or not. 

The resort sits on 40 beachfront acres within Marsh Harbour, and its wide-open beach is a beautiful spot to lounge in the sun, swim, snorkel, launch a kayak or paddleboard, or play a little volleyball. There are also a fitness center and tennis courts to make the most of your workout routine. Or…you can go hang by the two outdoor swimming pools, one with a swim-up bar and terrace that serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and poolside snacks. In addition to the Pool Bar & Terrace at Marinaville, be sure to spruce up and head up to The Bistro in the main building. The chic dining room has indoor and outdoor seating overlooking the garden pool, beach, marina, and beyond where dinner features favorites such as Conch Croquettes, Seared Snapper, Blackened Grouper Risotto, fondue, and specialties from the grill.

If all this activity is too much, the resort can coordinate massages, especially after working out those shoulder and back muscles during a day of fishing.  

Fishing Adventures Await: Tournaments and Charters

Speaking of which, you’re in the islands, and the Bahamas is well known for its fishing adventures. In fact, Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina is hosting four fishing tournaments this season, the first was the White Marlin Round-up this past April. Here’s a list of what’s up in May 2023.

May 3–6: Production vs. Custom Shootout

May 10–13: Armed Forces Shootout

May 17–20: Custom Shootout

But if you want to get out for a relaxing day of fishing, Abaco Beach Resort can coordinate with a wide range of professional fishing charters for dolphin, marlin, sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and the elusive bonefish. You can even rent your own boat, and if it’s not fishing, there are plenty of other water activities, such as diving, snorkeling, and lunch on the beach in a secluded cove. Ferry service will take you island hopping to nearby cays, including Elbow Cay and its Elbow Reef Lighthouse. Visit the national parks, take an eco tour, and shop and dine to your heart’s content. 

Discovering the Netherlands Antilles Islands: A Unique Hidden Gem

Stay in Comfort: Abaco Beach Resort’s Accommodations and Amenities

Every room at the resort has a private patio with an ocean view. Filled with the usual amenities, some rooms have the option to connect to adjoining rooms to fit the entire family. Two-bedroom residences have a living room to accommodate up to six guests, while the three-bedroom penthouse has a king bed in each room with private bathrooms and a full kitchen—all with views. 

“We continue to focus on small touches that continue to add value to our guest experiences,” says Ingraham. “We have added high-end Parachute Linen from New York and Molton Brown Amenities in all guest rooms. And for guest convenience, they can now enjoy guest tram service throughout the resort and marina.”

Boat Harbour Marina: Premium Facilities for Yacht Owners

For those coming by boat, the renovated Boat Harbour Marina is newly dredged with a mean low water depth of 7 to 11 feet. Expanded slip sizes and the addition of 480V power connections opens up dockage for vessels up to 200 feet in length. It’s the perfect staging spot for your Out Island adventure and a comfortable place to call home for a few days while you’re cruising the islands.

The state-of-the-art marina has potable water, multiple pumps at the fuel dock (low sulfur diesel and gasoline), pump-out services, and single- and three-phase power. It is child- and pet-friendly, has on-site laundry, free Wi-Fi, and 24-hour security. There’s also a helipad, you know, in case it won’t fit on your yacht. In any case, those staying in the marina have full access to all the resort’s amenities. 

Abaco Beach Resort’s Experience – Tailored for You

Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina caters to everyone looking for that relaxed, hassle-free experience. It’s all in the attitude, and that is what makes Abaco Beach Resort such a wonderful place to call home, at least for a few nights. abacobeachresort.com 

Island Cruise: Explore Cruise Companies’ Exclusive Private Island Destinations

Exclusive Experiences: Cruise ship companies are offering private island cruises and excursions.

What do actor Johnny Depp, illusionist David Copperfield, and the Aga Khan have in common? Apart from being wealthy, worldly, and at the top of their respective professions, they are also part of an exclusive group who own private islands in the Bahamas. For non-celebrities, taking an island cruise may be the closest experience to private island ownership. But for the ultra-wealthy, having access to their own island means that they can enjoy the pleasures of the Bahamas without dealing with gawkers and paparazzi. After all, it’s hard to get your island vibe on if you are constantly being harassed by autograph-seekers and chased by tabloid photographers looking for a salacious money shot.

Getting a bit of peace is sufficient motivation to pony up more than $100 million as the Aga Khan did in 2009 to purchase the 349-acre Bell Island in the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park (ECLSP). The additional costs of persuading the Bahamian government to provide the permits necessary to dredge a channel from nearby Conch Cut to facilitate the entrance of his yacht and the $8 million spent rebuilding the homes on the island seem almost trivial.

By comparison, Johnny Depp’s 45-acre Little Halls Pond Cay also in the ECLSP was purchased for a modest $3.6 million in 2004, a relative bargain in the fantasy land of private escapes. If shelling out millions to live the private island lifestyle is not in the cards, then perhaps a short-term rental at David Copperfield’s Musha Cay could be a viable alternative for you and your significant other at a mere $350,000 per week. With 150 acres and a 10,000-square-foot manor house at your disposal, you should both be able to find your space.

Those of us with more modest means can only aspire to the lifestyles of the rich and famous as everyday realties intrude on daydreams fostered by furtive glances at tabloids in the supermarket checkout line. Understandably, the attraction to luxury and being waited on hand and foot in exotic locales is strong and it was a major factor in the impressive growth of the cruise ship industry; an industry that has always taken pride in pampering their guests. During the 1990s, cruise ship lines built 50 new ships, and between 2000 and 2015, they launched a whopping 300 ships. Each ship was larger, more luxurious, and better appointed than the previous, featuring amenities ranging from all-you-can-eat sushi to rock-climbing walls. Despite the setbacks of 9/11 and the ravages of the pandemic, which singled out cruise ships as particularly toxic environments, the industry has grown sevenfold since 1990. Presently, there are well over 100 ships expected to join the global fleet in the coming years.

With the rising numbers of available ships, competition for a different experience between cruise lines has grown fierce. Possibilities for new and exciting onboard amenities have reached their limits due to the physical constraints imposed by a ship, so turning to a branded land experience was a logical extension for the cruise companies. The concept of a private island destination is not new, but as the bar was raised with each new cruise ship debuting, the private island offerings had to keep pace, too, as lounge chairs and umbrellas alone were no longer sufficient to satisfy an experience-hungry public.

The first Bahamian island turned into a private destination for cruise ship guests was the 268-acre Great Stirrup Cay in the northern Berry Islands. Originally a base for pirates, the island was acquired by the Belcher Oil Company of Miami for oil exploration. When oil seemed to be an unlikely prospect in the Bahamas, the island was leased to Norwegian Cruise Lines (NCL) in 1977. The site’s proximity to deep water made it an ideal location for NCL, who cleaned it up and added cabanas and beach chairs so that its guests could come ashore and stretch their legs for a few hours. Not surprisingly, the shore excursions on pristine beaches were very popular and the site became a pillar of the NCL marketing campaigns.

Not to be outdone, Admiral Cruises leased nearby Little Stirrup Cay in 1985 in the cruise ship equivalent of keeping up with the Joneses, so that it too could offer a similar beach experience to its guests. Unlike Great Stirrup Cay which had a storied history of being the home to pirates, Little Stirrup Cay was undeveloped and uninhabited until the arrival of Admiral Cruises. In 1988, Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, which also operated Celebrity and Azamara Cruises, assumed the lease for Little Stirrup Cay and renamed it Coco Cay after it acquired Admiral Cruises into its fleet. With the launch of Coco Cay, the race to create even more spectacular island experiences was on.

In the following years, Princess Cruise Lines created the Princess Cay Experience on Eleuthera, and the Disney Corporation opened the Treasure Island Castaway Experience on Guana Cay in Abaco. Both facilities opened their doors in the early 1990s, but the Disney offering only lasted a few years because the site they had chosen was too shallow to host cruise ships. The Loggerhead Channel, which was cut into reefs and rock, much to the dismay of environmentalists, proved to be a boon for private boaters but was simply too difficult for large cruise ships to negotiate safely during Abaconian winter storms. After several seasons of multiple cancellations, Disney abandoned the site and moved its Bahamian Island experience to Gorda Cay which it has since renamed Castaway Cay. Virtually all traces of the failed Treasure Island Experience have been eradicated from the Internet, and the site itself has been demolished to create the luxury Baker’s Bay Development. Boaters as recently as 2010, however, will remember the eerie silhouette of a ghostly pirate ship rising above the mangroves.

While private island developments were immensely popular with cruise ship guests, alarms were being raised by environmental groups to the potential damage that could be caused by the sudden introduction of floating hotels and throngs of passengers into fragile ecosystems that were already under stress due to climate change and pollution in the world’s oceans. In response to the criticism, the cruise ship industry has adopted policies to go above and beyond the mandatory regulatory requirements of environmental management. In 2018, MSC Cruises undertook a landmark project to reclaim Ocean Cay, a former sand mining site located on a man-made island perched at the edge of Great Bahama Bank south of Bimini. With an investment of $300 million the man-made mound of sand was rehabilitated with rock seawalls to prevent erosion, a coral rejuvenation program was started, and trees were planted, all with the objective of creating an ecologically positive impact while providing guests with an idyllic private island experience.

Currently, there are no fewer than nine private island escapes in the Bahamas solely for the use of cruise ship passengers. After a $250 million rejuvenation in 2017, Royal Caribbean claims to have the tallest water slide in the Caribbean at 135 feet, but it will undoubtedly be challenged by something bigger and better as the need to fill the new ships coming online increases. In southern Long Island, the Calypso Cove project, announced in December 2022, will include a full-size 18-hole golf course and a heliport. Developed by the Brazilian company Azul, it will be available for the use of any cruise line that wishes to stop at its dock, which will be sized to accommodate the largest cruise ships in the world. If it is successful, there will likely be more third-party offerings of private island experiences.

While the jury is still out on the effectiveness of the environmental management programs instituted by the cruise ship lines, and economic benefits to local economies of cruise ships are unclear, the undeniable popularity of the island destination will almost ensure that new sites will be sought out and developed. The winners will be the cruise ship passengers, who for the price of their fares will be able to enjoy the barefoot, sand-between-the-toes hedonism of the rich and famous on their private islands. It’s true you must share the day with a few thousand of your new best friends, but it’s a good compromise until those Powerball numbers come in.

-by Addison Chan

Narragansett Bay Cruising – A Complete Guide: Explore Newport, Providence & More

Narragansett Bay Cruising: A Boater’s Paradise

Boaters will find several stopovers with much to explore while cruising Rhode Island’s Narragansett Bay.

Showcasing classic New England features, Narragansett Bay in Rhode Island offers a perfect package for cruisers. Geographically, it is both protected and spacious. Stunning scenery, deep maritime traditions, generous opportunities for mooring or dockage, and an abundance of shore activities draw boaters. Once home to the Narragansett tribe, the bay bearing this name still beckons travelers from around the world. Roughly translated to mean “people of the small point,” Narragansett Bay offers many cruising options from quiet coves to the Newport vibe, to picturesque towns, and the urban hum of Providence. Sweeping hills, verdant pastures, craggy cliffs and beaches punctuated by farms and small communities embellish the coastline. Numerous state parks allow hiking, picnicking, fishing, and swimming while anchored nearby.

Cutting inland for 25 miles, the bay is bifurcated by several sizable islands. The sinuous coastline provides an incredible amount of shore to explore. Points, coves, islands, and rivers hold world-renowned attractions including Newport, considered by many to be the most sophisticated yachting community in the U.S. Short hops of 12 nautical miles or less afford ample shore time to peruse multiple areas. And every stop projects a different profile due to culture, contributions to the American story, and place in maritime history.

Credit: Discover Newport | discovernewport.org

Newport’s Maritime Legacy: A Destination for Every Boater

While holding an elite position as the starting line for many global sailboat races, including the biennial Bermuda Race, Newport offers something for every visitor. “Everyone is welcome from the large yacht owner to the local kayaker,” says Sara Mariani, deputy harbormaster. “We strive to make Newport accessible to all.”

Gawking is allowed as the harbor attracts every type of boat imaginable. Charter excursions are available on several 39-foot America’s Cup sailboats. Summer months are predictably busy, and dockage at one of 20-plus marinas must be reserved. Transient moorings are available at four mooring fields on a first-come, first-served basis. Several anchorages exist with a 14-day anchoring limit. Launches whiz around the harbor transporting guests to town and back, but there are also four public dinghy docks. Designed for cruisers, the Newport Maritime Center and the Seamen’s Church Institute has showers, laundry facilities, and complimentary Wi-Fi. 

Restaurants serve up a variety of seafood and ethnic specialties. Shopping is centered around Bannister’s Wharf. Many visitors traverse the notorious Cliff Walk on the Atlantic side. Winding three-and-a-half miles along the cliffs bordering many of the famed Gilded Age mansions, this picturesque National Recreation Trail overlooks rugged coastline. Numerous iconic mansions are open for tours.

Big draws also include the newly opened Sailing Museum, the International Tennis Hall of Fame, the U.S. Naval War College, and the Touro Synagogue, the oldest Jewish house of worship still standing in North America. Fort Adams, dating to the 1700s, bears long witness to its early role protecting strategic Newport Harbor. Ferries run to nearby Jamestown Island, home to a charming village inviting discovery by foot or bike.

Anchoring the draw to Newport are the heavyweight annual events: the Newport Jazz Festival (August), the Newport Folk Festival (July or August), and the Newport International Boat Show, held in September.

Bristol’s Historic Charm: Home to the America’s Cup Hall of Fame

Leaving Newport, head north on the East Passage between Conanicut and Prudence Islands on the west and Aquidneck Island on the east toward Bristol where a lovely harbor lures in boaters. Steeped in boatbuilding history, Bristol is home to the famed Herreshoff Marine Museum and the America’s Cup Hall of Fame. The museum includes more than 500 models, on-site boats, tools, and a treasure trove of documents connected to some of the fastest and most stunning boats ever built.

Bristol’s marinas place you in the center of this energetic and attractive town. Everything is walkable or bikeable. Bristol Maritime Center offers amenities including showers, laundry facilities, free Wi-Fi, and vending machines for snacks.  

Known for the “oldest Independence Day Celebration” in the country, Bristol explodes with music, festivities, fireworks, and a vintage parade. Both Hope and High Streets are painted red, white, and blue down the center, signaling the parade route. Bakeries, a vintage hardware store, free concerts, and a bevy of restaurants compete for attention. 

A short excursion to nearby Fall River, Massachusetts, allows visiting Battleship Cove, America’s Fleet Museum. Several ships are open for tours including the Navy warship Massachusetts, active during World War II, as well as a submarine, PT boats, and Vietnam War-era ships.

Providence: A Cultural Hub with Vibrant Waterfront Activities

Northwest of Bristol at Conimicut Point, Narragansett Bay merges into the well-marked Providence River. With deep water, cruisers can head 10 nautical miles up the bay from Bristol and into the river. Bullock Cove on the eastern shore, and Pawtuxet Cove and Edgewood on the west offer marinas. Skinny harbors and less depth off the channel reduce anchoring possibilities. Farther north, a series of hurricane barriers, the first of their type in the U.S., reduce access to Providence for larger boats. Only small boats proceed past Edgewood. 

However, a 10-minute car ride lands cruisers in the vibrant center of Providence, the state capital. An attractive River Walk entices visitors to tour the city. “Providence is a pedestrian-friendly city with a compact downtown,” says Kristen Adamo, president and CEO of the Providence Warwick Convention and Visitors Bureau. “The East Side is more intellectual, and the West Side has a cool, funky, up-and-coming feel.” 

Seasonally, the area offers the exuberant WaterFire, a series of floating bonfires illuminating downtown, which is bisected by the river. Self-guided historic walking tours and public art tours abound.

Additional draws in Providence are the Roger Williams Park the museum at the Rhode Island School of Design, a leading visual arts, design, art, and architecture institution. Brown University, an Ivy League university founded in 1764, drifts down the hills east of the river. Ethnic neighborhoods with seductive bakeries and restaurants reflect the ongoing influence of Portuguese and Italian immigrants. The annual Flickers’ Rhode Island International Film Festival, considered the largest public film festival in New England, occurs in August. Rhode Island T.F. Green International Airport in nearby Warwick provides transit for boaters or guests.

Narragansett Bay Cruising With A Scenic Stopover at Greenwich Bay

Heading back downriver about 10 miles leads to Greenwich Bay on the west side. Approaching from the north, boaters thread the narrow gut between Warwick Point and Patience Island where tricky currents may surge depending on wind and tide. Offering marinas, anchorages, and moorings suitable for all wind directions, this bay stretches three miles in with clearly marked shoals and channels. Three areas, each with a different compass orientation, summon boaters. They are Apponaug Cove, Greenwich Cove, and Warwick Cove. All offer a combo package of boating amenities, parks, shopping, picnic areas, and attractions. Goddard Memorial State Park in Greenwich Cove is yet another public space with easy access and hiking. 

Regarding navigation cruising here, Narragansett Bay is well-marked. Careful captains scrutinize up-to-date charts, noting presence of rocks and convoluted channels into some harbors. Following local fishing boats that may move nimbly along, even in fog, is not advised. Their intricate knowledge of hazards may mean the difference of inches from underwater rocks. Stick with marked channels. Keep an eye out for lobster pots and dragnets.

Knowledgeable use of radar and AIS improve safety both in traffic and in low visibility. Certain areas, like Newport, buzz with overwhelming activity in the summer. Conditions can get very chaotic and congested requiring constant situational awareness. Some vessels do not respect the posted 5 mph speed limit, and the “slow pass,” common in southern waters, is not a local practice. Stay very alert, and let someone else take the photos. After dark, operating a vessel, even a dinghy, in the Newport area is not advised.  

Summer weather offers pleasant days with cooler, sometimes dewy nights. Prevailing winds from the southwest can often build to 15-20 knots. The tidal range averages four to six feet depending on location. In narrow areas, current can be strong. Knowing the time of slack ebb (following low tide) can be important to avoid the steep buildup of waves resulting from a stiff wind and opposing current. Some boaters treat entry into Narragansett Bay like an inlet and time their entrance accordingly. Fog is not unusual. Most common in early summer months, it is likely to burn off in the morning. However, be aware, it can defy expectations.

With its broad menu of attractions, Narragansett Bay can be well-explored in a week. Those with more time to cruise can easily reach Block Island or Martha’s Vineyard in a day. But don’t hurry or you will miss a sensational slice of New England. Linger to hear the boatbuilders who launched a whaling fleet, the mesmerizing hush of fog, the five-minute gun for the start of a race, the gong of the Whale Rock buoy, and sweet sounds of music carried over the water.  

by Maria Brown

Exploring Jersey Shore: A Simple Cruising Guide Like No Other

Jersey Shore Cruising: a wide variety of activities and entertainment along the 100-plus miles of popular Atlantic coastline.

Doo Wop, diners, and deuces. Bluefish, beaches, and Bruce. If you look hard enough, you can find just about anything if you go Jersey Shore cruising. Long linked to casinos, deep sea fishing, and reality shows, “down the shore” holds stellar surprises. For cruisers, there are a wide range of temptations for many appetites.

With 130 miles of Atlantic Ocean coastline and the Delaware Bay and Delaware River to the west, New Jersey is surrounded by water. The state has a high ratio of shoreline to land mass, making it a prime vacation destination. Anchoring the state’s southern tip, Cape May claims to be the oldest resort community in America. Traveling up the coastline, Jersey Shore cruising reveals numerous small towns, Atlantic City glitz, famous inlets, and many state parks. Along the way, three wildly popular and safe harbors welcome cruisers.

Cape May: A Historic Experience

Sandwiched between the confluence of the Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean, Cape May is accessible from three directions. The Cape May Inlet on the ocean side and the Cape May Canal on the western side offer safe entry under most circumstances. The ebb tide flows east
in both approaches. 

Cape May is the nation’s only National Historic Landmark City as well as home to the U.S. Coast Guard Training Center. Dating back to the 17th century, Cape May boasts one of the largest collections of Victorian homes anywhere. A fire in the late 1800s led to major rebuilding during the peak of this style. Most homes are meticulously maintained and painted in the classic color combinations (at least four different hues) unique to the period.

Cape May is also considered the restaurant capital of New Jersey, named one of the 25 top food towns in America by a popular travel magazine. In addition to featuring “farm to fork” trends facilitated by New Jersey’s plentiful produce farms, it also promotes “hook to cook,” highlighting the commercial fishing fleet, the second largest on the East Coast. Scallops and Cape May Salts appear on most local menus.

The Cape May Lighthouse is a fun visit. During the summer, the Cape May Stage hosts Tony Award-winning plays. Boaters get around via bikes, walking, shuttles from some marinas, a trolley, or ride sharing. Home to several large fishing tournaments, Cape May is the crux of offshore fishing in the state and also popular for inshore and beach fishing. Adjacent to Cape May and worth a visit, Wildwoods made pop culture history as the center of Doo Wop in the 1950s and 1960s. The Doo Wop Preservation League ensures the space-age architecture and kitschy vibes thrive.

Cape May has several marinas that get crowded during summer tournaments. Reservations are recommended at the larger marinas: Utsch’s, South Jersey, and Canyon Club Resort. Two anchorages on the backside of the Coast Guard Station are well-known. Boaters dinghy to Fisherman’s Wharf, tie up, and make the scenic stroll into town for shopping and sightseeing. The convenient Lobster House at Fisherman’s Wharf is understandably popular. 

Heading north there are two navigational choices. The New Jersey Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) threads its way up to Manasquan. However, operating depths of three-and-a-half feet, and several 35-foot fixed bridges prohibit many boats from following it. Most cruisers head offshore when the weather is favorable. Running a course a few miles offshore, one spots land for the entire trip north. Depending on preferences and cruising speed, the 110-nautical mile coast can be covered in one day or split into two days with a stop after 34 nautical miles at Atlantic City, or three days with another stop in Manasquan. What’s the rush?

Atlantic City: Entertainment Capital of the Shore

Jersey Shore cruising into Atlantic City? Absecon Inlet guides boaters into the heart of Atlantic City with the Golden Nugget Casino and Farley State Park Marina beckoning to port. With the famous rebuilt Ferris wheel, known as “The Wheel,” visible five miles offshore, Atlantic City doesn’t sneak up on you. Inlet entry is easy with favorable conditions, but the current might make you feel like you and your vessel are a pinball shot into a noisy, lit-up arcade game. Yes, there are casinos—currently, nine of them. Featured entertainers this summer include Keith Urban, Tina Fey and Amy Poehler, Kool and the Gang, and Santana. Fine dining is available. Check out the Anthony Bourdain Food Trail.

A major draw for more than 150 years, the Boardwalk is the backbone of the city. Built in 1870, it is the oldest in the U.S. Measuring five miles, the Boardwalk is the longest in the world. At 60 feet wide, it accommodates throngs of visitors who come to “walk the boards.” Most casinos tower over it, and the Steel Pier amusement park secures the northern end. The Jitney, a free bus, runs loops between the casinos providing an easy way to move around. 

Additional draws include the Historic Gardner’s Basin Aquarium, Absecon Lighthouse, and the annual Air Show featuring the Air Force Thunderbirds, scheduled for August 16th. Astounding acrobatics and 100 years of different planes perform along the beachfront. There’s not a bad seat in the house. Pilots rehearse the day before, which is a great preview.

In addition to the large Farley State Park Marina, Historic Gardner’s Basin at times offers inexpensive docking, and Kammerman’s Marina, while smaller, provides full service. Boats drawing less than five feet can shimmy their way into a protected anchorage at Brigantine Bay. Mid-tide rising or high tide is recommended for those gutsy enough to shoot the narrow entrance channel. Charts note two other anchorages within Absecon Inlet, but both are prone to unsettling conditions.

Manasquan & Point Pleasant: Unspoiled Beauty and Family Fun

A 50-nautical mile run north reaches the Manasquan Inlet, bordered by four communities. Jersey Shore cruising along the northern part leads to numerous unique towns alternating with gorgeous scenery at multiple state parks. From sea, observe long, white streaks of beach alternating with cottages and fewer high-rises. Considered one of the safest and widest inlets, Manasquan has well-maintained jetties and good depth. Maintain speed needed to control your vessel, and be aware that traffic is intense, especially on weekends and during fishing tournaments. 

This lively area has marinas, chandleries, boatbuilders, and repair yards. Prime marinas for those coming from offshore include two Hoffman’s Marinas and the Brielle Yacht Club Marina. Some brokerages and boat yards may offer transient slips. Glimmer Glass up Crabtown Creek provides secure anchorage for shallow-draft boats. Cruisers flock to nearby restaurants. Point Pleasant to the south features a mile-long boardwalk and de rigueur rides, bars, and arcades. The beach at Point Pleasant is privately owned but accessed with a fee like public beaches. 

South of Manasquan is the beautiful, unspoiled Island Beach State Park. Rolling dunes and a forest are home to many animals and birds. This natural environment offers a relaxing vibe compared to the fast pace of nearby towns like Seaside Heights. The true Jersey Shore feel of a family-oriented resort town is on display with smaller, privately owned homes, amusement rides, diners serving traditional pork sandwiches and, as always, ice cream. 

Along the Jersey Shore, surf fishing and offshore fishing are popular. The charter business booms with the inshore quest for flounder and blues and the offshore hunt for billfish. Numerous tournaments focus on wahoo, mahi, tuna, and marlin. 

Regarding navigation, review inlet safety and know your best speed for current conditions.  Avoid opposing wind and tide, which can steepen waves. Harbors usually have tidal ranges of four-and-a-half to five feet. Carry safety equipment, including radar needed for offshore runs, even if expecting short jaunts. Occasionally, fog settles offshore. Inlet buoys may be out of place early in the season due to ice movement. Checking NOAA offshore weather, as well as apps like Predict Wind and Windy, are crucial before venturing into the ocean. 

So bait a hook, place a bet, ride “The Wheel,” or bust a move at a concert. Jersey Shore Cruising entertains like no other. visitnj.org 

-by Maria Brown

The Ultimate Adventure: Mystic Powerboats Owners Run 2023 in the Bahamas

Embarking on the 2023 Mystic Powerboats Journey: A Personal Experience

On a crisp Wednesday morning, I found myself standing on the deck of the magnificent M5200, ready to embark on the highly anticipated 2023 Mystic Powerboats Owners Run to the Bahamas. Sailfish Marina in West Palm Beach buzzed with excitement as all 11 boats revved their engines, preparing to set sail for Grand Bahama.

As we crossed the glistening waters, I couldn’t help but feel a rush of exhilaration. The M5200 gracefully sliced through the waves, offering an unmatched sense of power and freedom. Finally, we arrived at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club, a picturesque destination that promised unforgettable experiences.

Luxury and Adventure: The 2023 Mystic Powerboats Experience in the Bahamas

After swiftly clearing customs, we boarded a shuttle that whisked us away to the Pelican Bay Hotel, our home away from home for the duration of this extraordinary journey. The hotel exuded luxury and comfort, instantly putting us in vacation mode. But there was no time to waste—we were eager to begin our Bahamian escapade.

As the sun began to set, our group gathered on Taino Beach, a vibrant locale known for its local fish fry. The aroma of sizzling seafood filled the air as we indulged in a delicious dinner, savoring the flavors of the Bahamas. With contented bellies, we moved to the dance floor, where laughter and music intertwined, creating an atmosphere of pure joy.

Creating Bonds and Memories: The 2023 Mystic Powerboats Raft-Up Experience

Thursday morning arrived with a promise of new adventures. Energized by a delightful breakfast at the hotel, I eagerly prepared for the boat raft-up—a chance to connect with fellow boat owners and revel in the crystal-clear waters of the Bahamas. Our convoy of 11 boats set sail, and as we reached the lagoon, we were joined by a lively party barge, transforming the water into a floating paradise. With music wafting through the air and tantalizing food and drinks at our fingertips, we spent the day forging bonds and immersing ourselves in the beauty of the surroundings.

As the golden rays of the setting sun painted the horizon, we returned to the hotel, where Sabor awaited us with its tantalizing menu. Each bite seemed to encapsulate the essence of the islands, and we savored every moment, cherishing the shared experience.

Friday morning brought us to Sandy Cay, a secluded oasis brimming with natural wonders. Anchored amid the serene beauty, we embarked on yet another raft-up, this time with the thrill of swimming with sharks and stingrays. The ocean embraced us as we marveled at its majestic inhabitants, creating memories that would forever dwell in our hearts.

The day culminated in a spectacular cocktail party at the Grand Bahama Yacht Club. The atmosphere pulsated with infectious energy as we reveled in the delectable food, flowing drinks, and the electrifying beat of Junkanoo music. Laughter echoed through the night, intermingling with the sounds of clinking glasses—a symphony of pure bliss.

Reflecting on the Unforgettable 2023 Mystic Powerboats Owners Run

Saturday morning arrived, bringing with it a bittersweet tinge. The time had come to bid farewell to the Bahamas. The engines roared to life as we retraced our journey, heading back to Sailfish Marina. While the adventure had come to an end, the memories we made during the Mystic Powerboats Owners Run would forever hold a cherished place in my heart—a testament to the camaraderie, the untamed spirit of the sea, and the sheer thrill of embracing life’s extraordinary moments.

-by Brandon Ferris

Discovering the Netherlands Antilles Islands: A Unique Hidden Gem

The Netherlands Antilles islands—Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao (called the ABCs)—are among the southernmost of the Caribbean islands. Their position at 12 degrees north latitude is pretty much guaranteed to spare these islands from hurricanes during the June 1st to November 30th storm season. No matter how long you stay, or what you see and do, these Southern Caribbean islands make a great off-the-beaten track cruising destination.

ARUBA

Cruise south to Aruba and consider storing your boat at the Varadero Aruba Marina and Boatyard, south of the capital of Oranjestad. It has more than 400 dry berths and 70 wet slips for boat storage. This yard is the only one in the ABCs that has 20-ton and 60-ton Roodberg trailers than can haul monohulls and multihulls up to 80 feet long with a 42-foot beam. Yard services include bottom paint, fiberglass, gel coat repair, and mechanical and welding work. If you’d rather use Aruba as a jump-off before cruising west to the Panama Canal, contemplate a shorter stay at Wind Creek Marina, located in Oranjestad east of the cruise ship dock. There are 40 berths with freshwater, electricity, phones, and security. Guests have full privileges at the Renaissance Aruba Resort & Casino, including access to the hotel’s swimming pools, gym, and private island with complimentary ferry service. Like Varadero, Wind Creek is near the bars, restaurants, supermarkets, and shops in the capital, and a quick drive from the Queen Beatrix International Airport. There are plenty of things to see and do in Aruba. Natural wonders include Conchi, the volcanic rock-surrounded pool in the Arikok Natural Park, and the nearby Fontein Cave, with its ancient Arawak Indian drawings. Eagle Beach is popular for snorkeling, swimming, and sunning. For creature comforts, there’s name-brand, duty-free shopping. The Royal Plaza Mall in downtown Oranjestad is notable for its ornate, pastel-painted Dutch-Caribbean architecture. Restaurants from beach bars to oceanfront bistros serve seafood to more sophisticated fare. aruba.com

Bonaire is the easternmost of the Netherlands Antilles islands. Its total land area covers around 111 square miles, with several fringing reefs, making it ideal for SCUBA diving. On land, there are national parks, botanical gardens, flamingo and donkey sanctuaries, and the offshore island of Klein Bonaire to explore, plus fine dining, live entertainment, and upscale shopping for indulgent fun. After clearing Customs & Immigration in the capital city of Kralendijk on arrival, head to one of two major marinas nearby. Harbour Village Marina, slightly south of the city, offers 60 slips for yachts up to 150 feet and one dock for superyachts 240-plus feet. A yacht club membership here gives access to swimming pools, a fitness center, bars, and restaurants. A short distance north is the Plaza Beach & Dive Resort Marina where there are 80 slips for power and sailboats albeit only five of these for transients. The maximum depth here is 15 feet. tourismbonaire.com

Curaçao

Curaçao is the largest island of the ABCs at 171 square miles. Willemstad is the capital, and it’s the Punda (town square) where Customs & Immigration offices are located. Marinas, such as Curaçao Marine in Willemstad’s Schottegat Harbour, also offer clearance. There are 40-plus wet slips here with electricity and power. There’s no better eye candy than the pastel-painted colonial architecture of this historic city. During your visit, enjoy shopping, dining, and impressive sights like the floating Queen Emma Bridge that connects the Punda to other neighborhoods. On the island’s southeast coast in Spanish Waters is the Seru Boca Marina, which has more than 130 slips for vessels up to 220 feet. The dockage fee includes freshwater at each slip and provisioning delivered to your yacht. Across the bay, the Curaçao Yacht Club is open to members only. However, diesel and gasoline are available for yachts. Budget Marine Curaçao is a soup-to-nuts chandlery, Imix Marine is the Boston Whaler and Mercury dealer, and Curaçao Marine has a full-service boatyard and can haul up to 60 tons. Water sports are a big pastime on Curaçao with snorkeling, SCUBA diving, and kiteboarding most popular. Jan Thiel Beach is a good bet for water sports rentals. If inland, check out the Hato Caves, hike Christoffel Mountain, and visit the Flamingo Sanctuary. curacao.com

If there’s one set of ABCs to be acquainted with, it’s the Netherlands Antilles Islands ABCs.

By Carol Bareuther

Carol Bareuther

Carol Bareuther is a marine writer based in the U.S. Virgin Islands. As a registered dietician she also writes food-related articles.

What Happened to Grand Bahama?

I have never been to Grand Bahama, well, except when I did a yacht delivery and stopped at West End to check in before heading to the Abacos. Dinner and an overnight at Old Bahama Bay Resort and Yacht Harbour was peaceful and enjoyable, and the pool, beach bar, and beach were a nice way to end the day, but I didn’t give the rest of the island any thought. The next morning, we were off to the Abacos.

The voyage across Little Bahama Bank was exciting, primarily because the water was so clear I thought I’d hit bottom, and the isolated thunderheads towering over curtains of rain was a photographer’s dream, especially with turquoise waters spun in sandy hues blending with a deep blue sky scattered with bright, billowing white clouds. It was a spectacular view, but the low-lying shore to my south was all I saw of Grand Bahama.

Hurricanes have a habit of destroying beautiful views, particularly on land, and Hurricane Dorian did just that to Grand Bahama and the Abacos, and the rebuilding process still continues. The COVID pandemic took hold shortly after and the islands were shut down completely, but that’s all changed and the Abacos as well as Grand Bahama are up and running again. News spread quickly in my world about the Abacos, primarily because they are such a popular spot for fishing, recreational boaters, and vacationers with so many places to hide out among the small barrier islands along the eastern flank of Great Abaco Island, but I barely heard a thing about Grand Bahama.

A letter from a gentleman who lived and worked on Grand Bahama in the 1970s reached my office asking what had happened to the island and the places he worked after the storm. After I received four handwritten letters in the mail, I searched for news, but didn’t find much, so I wondered too. After winning a Balearia Caribbean Fast Ferry ride, it was a sign that it was time for me to go and find out.

Balearia Caribbean Fast Ferry

Taking the Balearia Caribbean Fast Ferry over to the Bahamas was much easier and less stressful than the 46-foot yacht I delivered. On top of that, it only took an hour and a half to reach Bimini from Fort Lauderdale and then two hours up to Freeport, Grand Bahama. The day I rode back to Fort Lauderdale was a straight shot that took three hours.

The Balearia Caribbean Fast Ferry currently operates Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays to Bimini with one round trip each day and it varies to Grand Bahama with two to three times per week, generally Wednesdays or Thursdays and Saturdays. Balearia’s Jaume II is 266 feet in length with a 24-foot beam and its two skids in the catamaran-style design provide stability and speeds more than 30 knots. We averaged 32 going across to Bimini and 35 up to Grand Bahama; it was a beautifully calm day on the Florida Straits. It carries up to 600 passengers in comfortably padded seats spread on two decks with a bar and fast-food cafeteria, a duty-free gift shop, and two outdoor decks aft for a bit of sea spray and fresh air views.

Balearia has ships around the Mediterranean, Morocco and the Canary Islands, Spain, France, Algeria, and Fort Lauderdale. “We have forty ships globally,” says Capt. Eduardo Martinez, who has been a captain with Balearia for four years. “The largest ship we have is around six-hundred feet.” Jaume II is powered by four waterjet propulsion systems that are about 5,670 kW each, which is equivalent to about 30,000 horsepower total. The ride was comfortable, and when I wasn’t out on the aft deck, the interior TVs show blockbuster movies, in this case, Top Gun: Maverick. baleariacaribbean.com

Freeport, Grand Bahama

Grand Bahama is the northernmost island in the Bahama archipelago and the second most populated. The westernmost point is 55 miles from the U.S. East Coast and within easy reach of international shipping channels, so financier Wallace Groves, looking to reset his own life in the Bahamas back in the 1950s, came up with the idea to develop an area on Grand Bahama that would not only make him money, but could attract foreign investors to the island that, at the time, had little infrastructure or amenities.

“Back in 1955, Wallace Groves entered into an agreement with the government of the Bahamas…to create an industrial zone for manufacturing, warehousing logistics, an industrial sector that could benefit from the proximity to the largest economy in the world,” says Derek Newbold, chief investment officer, Grand Bahama Port Authority Limited. “The government of the day was colonized, so there was a British governor, but we also had a local governing party. They entered into an agreement with this American financier, this investor, to create…a special economic zone. That agreement was governed, or is governed, by…the Hawksbill Creek Agreement (HCA).”

That agreement gave Groves the right to develop about 50,000 acres of land, but that was just the beginning. “He asked the government for certain concessions, tax concessions, such as no corporate taxes, no income taxes, no taxes on repatriation of profits and dividends, no capital gains taxes,” says Newbold. “And then there were duty-free concessions to import certain goods relevant to the operation of business, such as capital expenses.”

He went even further with the idea that the development would have the right to provide certain services within the area, such as electricity, telecommunications, access to water, access to garbage disposal services, and so on. The government agreed and saw an opportunity for the island to grow, so in exchange, they asked Groves to develop a deepwater harbor, build schools, and be the catalyst behind driving the development of a tourism sector.

Freeport was born, and a master plan was developed. “It’s very organized,” adds Newbold. “In the west, you have the heavy industrialized area. This is where you have the oil trans-shipment terminal, and then you would have the container port and harbor area, all considered heavy industrial. As you move east, you enter into the light industrial or civic industrial area, then you get into the commercial district, which is thought of as the Town Center. On the outskirts, you have tourist commercial, and then you have residential pockets. It’s very planned and structured. You don’t see a home, then a business or church, then a liquor store.”

Groves did so well that the HCA was amended in 1960, giving him more rights and the segue into the tourism sector. In 1966, it was amended again, and in the end, the Grand Bahama Port Authority Limited was in control of some 170,000 acres of land within the 230-square-mile “free trade zone” that was agreed upon in the HCA. Newbold points out that a free trade zone brings about economic reform to stimulate employment, economic activity, be a testing ground for new government policies, including legislation, and to attract foreign investment. A business can save a lot of expense when equipment, fixtures, vehicles, and such are brought in duty-free.

“Freeport is kind of like the best-kept secret in the region,” says Newbold. “But that’s not going to last very long. …Over the next few years, you can expect Freeport to rival the best free trade zones in the world. You’re going to see more businesses continue to set up shop, and what that’s going to do is create this sort of synergistic environment that other businesses can benefit from and also thrive. That’s our future, and we can’t miss it. Industry has continued to thrive, and based on everything that’s happening right now, tourism is poised for a major expansion. You’re going to see Grand Bahama continue to rise on both fronts in terms of its investment, its industrial sector, and the tourism sector exploding, so to me, if I was a betting man, I would bet on Grand Bahama. Why? Because I have a front-row seat.”

This is just one part of the report on Grand Bahama’s recovery and growth. Be sure to check back in the coming weeks for more on the island’s resorts, marinas, restaurants, shops, water and land activities, and much more. The future is looking as colorful as its surroundings.

Read more Southern Boating Destination content here.

How to Explore Door County Wisconsin Where Adventure & Fun Await!

An Open Door

Step into Door County Wisconsin’s “thumb” where history, beautiful landscapes, and awesome food make it worth the visit.

Wisconsin is known for many things, and I’m not only referring to “cheese heads” and the Green Bay Packers. It’s “America’s Dairyland,” home of the first ice cream sundae. It also has one of four spots that marks the center of the globe—the intersection of the 45th parallel of latitude North and the 90th meridian of longitude West is halfway between the geographical north pole and the equator as well as between the Prime Meridian and the 180th meridian. 

Fun facts, indeed, but Wisconsin is also known for its diverse ecosystem, from prairie and grasslands to temperate forests, wetlands, and coastal environments. There’s also plenty of water, as the state has more than 1,000 miles of coastline along Lake Michigan and Lake Superior, 43,000 miles of rivers, and more than 15,000 lakes. One of the most ecologically rich and diverse environments is found on the Door Peninsula. 

Glacial Geography

Carved out by glaciers, the Door Peninsula (often described by Wisconsinites as “the thumb” in the state’s shape), is part of the Niagara Escarpment, a geological occurrence, simply speaking, formed by erosion that creates a ridge with a gentle slope on one side and a steep cliff on the other. The Door Peninsula is a section of that ridge with exposed dolomite rock cliffs 200-250 feet high coming off a sloping terrain. 

The soils are shallow in the northern half and richen toward the south where most farmland exists, but there’s an abundant variety of woodlands, plants, and wildlife everywhere. There’s a white cedar tree on the west side escarpment that is more than 600 years old. More than 300 bird species, and white-tail deer, black bears, and more are seen on the peninsula.

Fishing is a staple in the waters surrounding the peninsula with whitefish being the primary catch for the commercial fishing industry, but trout, sturgeon, bass, salmon, walleye, and northern pike swim the waters. Montmorency cherries are a big crop, and the Ridges Sanctuary off Baileys Harbor on the Lake Michigan side is home to 25 species of orchids. The Yellow Lady’s Slipper orchid blooms freely around the peninsula and is Door County’s official flower. 

Death’s Door and the Islands

Thirty-five islands sit off Door County peninsula as the escarpment runs up toward Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, but only Washington Island is large enough to support a year-round community. Residents and visitors can take the car ferry across “Death’s Door,” the five-mile passage between the tip of the peninsula and the island, or transit via their own boat. Kaps Marina is located next to the ferry terminal and accommodates boats to 60 feet (with one spot able to handle a 100-footer), has fuel, power, and general services, including a restaurant. On the other side of Detroit Harbor is the Shipyard Island Marina that also offers service and repairs.  

More than 275 shipwrecks happened in the waters around the peninsula

Death’s Door is the primary navigational passage from Lake Michigan to Green Bay and has many stories to tell. Legends speak of Potawatomi and Winnegabo Indians losing life when the weather turned bad, capsizing canoes and stranding some on the rocky shores which led to the designation Porte des Morts (Gate of the Dead) by French explorers and later to Death’s Door, of which the Door Peninsula got its name. The strait became more well-known and documented for its rough waters that wreaked havoc during the early shipping days, especially with sailing ships. More than 275 shipwrecks happened in the waters around the peninsula, and in 1881, the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal was built to avoid the passage.

The Door County Maritime Museum has three locations to keep the shipping history in the present. In the Sturgeon Bay location, visitors get the chance to steer a freighter through the Sturgeon Bay Ship Canal, albeit via a life-size wheelhouse with a virtual screen. 

Recreation in Door County, Wisconsin

Door County is full of fun during every season. From cross-country skiing in the winter to golf in the summer, there’s plenty to do, including a summertime experience like no other: fish boils. The tradition started back with the Scandinavian settlers as a way to feed large groups. The basic process of boiling salted water, potatoes, and onions in a large pot over an open fire before adding Lake Michigan whitefish and “boiling over” the fish oil before serving is a sight to see. 

There are five state parks and 19 county parks in Door County. Dolomite/limestone ledges and caves are highlights at Cave Point County Park. The lighthouses are always a favorite as is Eagle Tower in Peninsula State Park. Unobstructed, panoramic views of the surrounding islands, Green Bay, and Michigan’s Upper

Peninsula are seen from the 60-foot tower on Eagle Bluff. The park also features a scenic 18-hole golf course, bike trails, the Eagle Bluff Lighthouse, nature centers, and more. 

Once a year, Fincantieri, one of the world’s largest and most diverse shipbuilders, opens its Sturgeon Bay shipbuilding yard to the public. The guided tour showcases the enormity of constructing and maintaining the Great Lakes fleet, including cargo ships, barges, ferries, and offshore support vessels. The 63-acre yard launched the 639-foot freighter Mark W. Barker last October, the first U.S.-flagged freighter built on the Great Lakes in almost 40 years.

Sturgeon Bay is also the home of Marine Travelift where the fist mobile boat hoist was designed and manufactured back in the 1940s. By 2010, they delivered the world’s largest mobile boat hoist at 1,102 tons (1,000 metric tons). From a small town in Wisconsin, Marine Travelift is a global manufacturer of innovative boat hoists, lifts, and transporters.

Culinary Delights 

I spent one early morning watching Baileys Harbor Fish Company pull whitefish from trap nets. The Hickey Family has been working the Door County waters since the mid-1800s with the use of gill and pond nets starting in the early 1900s. The fish caught this morning would be my dinner that evening.

My days don’t start without coffee, and a visit to the Door County Coffee & Tea Company was in order. The family-owned business does all the roasting, packing, and shipping in house, which also has a café and store. A stand-out dish at breakfast was the Hash Bake, a savory blend of cubed, skin-on potatoes, sour cream, butter, creamy mushroom soup, and, you guessed it, cheddar cheese. Blended with a few cups of Death’s Door Coffee, that cold morning fishing trip was a warm memory.

The White Gull Inn, a historic bed and breakfast on the Green Bay shore in Fish
Creek, was the host for the evening’s fish boil. Salt was the only spice used in this combination of potatoes, onions, and whitefish, and with the addition of lemon, melted butter, coleslaw, homemade bread, and cherry pie at the table, this was a fun meal.

If you make it back to Fish Creek for another dinner, don’t miss the creations of Chef Chris Wiltfang at Skaliwags. Chef creates a food experience like no other because of his South Georgia charm blended with local seafood, steaks, and custom-made dishes.

Across from the Door County Maritime Museum in Sturgeon Bay is Sonny’s Italian Kitchen & Pizzeria. The second-floor view of the historic Sturgeon Bay Bridge and SkipperBud’s Harbor Club Marina add to the restaurant’s waterfront ambience, and the pizzas are awesome.

Cheese is a major food source in Wisconsin, so a stop at Renard’s Artisan Cheese is pretty much required. Door County’s oldest cheese store and bistro is in the hands of Master Cheesemaker Chris Renard, the third generation to craft the family recipes his father and grandfather perfected. Chris and Ann Renard also craft more than 50 flavor-infused specialty cheeses. The Honey Truffle grilled melt is incredible.

So Much More

Fish Creek has a quaint main street with galleries, boutiques, bars, and restaurants. I checked out the Cana Cove Surf Company in a repurposed old Quonset hut that features shaped, fiberglass surf and stand-up paddleboards by owner Matt Olsen. It’s a surprise to many, but surfing is alive on the Great Lakes and takes an entirely new technique to ride the short, choppy-type sets.

The Baileys Harbor Yacht Club Resort was a perfect base for my stay
as it is about halfway up the peninsula, so everything is within a quick drive. After all,
the peninsula is only about 18 miles across and the tip is about 43 miles from Sturgeon Bay. Whether cruising the Great Lakes or following the Great Loop, don’t miss Door County, Wisconsin.  

-by Steve Davis

Read More Travel Tips Here

The Grand Bahama Recovery: Now Back to Thriving Tourism

What About Grand Bahama?

The northern Bahamas island is alive and well.

Many know how Hurricane Dorian ravaged the Abaco and Grand Bahama islands, but few have heard much about Grand Bahama’s recovery with most of the focus going to the Abacos. They both suffered major damage from the wind and rain, but it was the surge that surprised Grand Bahama. The eastern half of the island was covered with up to 23 feet of water—saltwater—which devastated plants, roads, power grids, and homes.

“It was big,” says Don Churchill of DonCar Hospitality Management Services. “There was no more north shore or south shore for three days; it was all ocean. There were tops of houses sticking out…that’s it.”

It may be fortunate that the island is around 90 miles long because some areas didn’t get hit as hard. “It was kind of strange,” he adds. “You could look down here after the storm and it looked like the day before the storm. Then you go to other areas on the island, and there’s nothing left. It was all where the flooding hit. …The southern end, which is where most of the population and commercial areas are, actually didn’t do too badly.” The island’s codes are designed for wind, but “Dorian was the first real flood storm,” says Churchill. “Now we’ve learned about floods and how we have to build everything up.”

The Road to Recovery

Like most of the islands, including the Caribbean, that were hit with hurricanes in 2019, rebuilding began, but the COVID pandemic put a quick halt to any activity. However, a timely visit to Grand Bahama this past February showed that the island was well on its way to recovery.

“There’s definitely a renaissance taking place,” says Carmel Churchill, marketing consultant for the Grand Bahama Island Promotion Board and co-owner of DonCar Hospitality Management Services. “What’s been happening is that you have individual investors that are buying buildings like this, completely gutting them, and renovating them,” she says, speaking of Dolphin Cove Resort, a boutique hotel with dock space on the canals along the southern shore of Freeport. “If they have a marina, they are rebuilding the slips as well. …I truly believe the boutique hotel is what you’re going to see in terms of the future of accommodations in Grand Bahama.”

Anne Meunier and her husband are doing just that with the rebuilding of a location where the Navy had a small base and the previous owner docked his 105-foot yacht. “We will have twelve docks to welcome twelve boats, big and small size,” she says. The Meuniers had their 2022 70-foot Endurance yacht docked in front of the 12 four-bedroom rental units that will be completely furnished with artwork, Wi-Fi, and a balcony overlooking the docks. “This will fall very close to the line of a boutique resort,” adds Carmel. “But this will definitely be at the chic, upscale side of things.” Villa Marina plans to open in May.

Another angle is one which Xquisite Yachts is taking. It’s developing a small hotel into the Xquisite Catamaran Center, its Bahamas base location with sales, charter, full service, rooms for clients, an upscale bar/restaurant, and a heated pool. Xquisite builds custom sailing catamarans and is launching the Xquisite 60 Solar Powercat in December and the Xquisite 40 Powercat in 2024. With most sales going to the U.S. East Coast, Caribbean, and Bahamas, Grand Bahama is the perfect, central location.

“Originally, we were looking for a marina and boatyard because there was no space to put our boats for service,” says Tamas Hamor, CEO of Xquisite Yachts. “Then we found this place.” The property came with a hotel and space to adds docks and service yard. Knowles marine & Yacht Service is next door. The location in Port-of-Call Channel on the south shore of Freeport will also be an official Port of Entry.

Carnival is also building a new base, the Carnival Grand Bahama Cruise Port, along the south shore about 20 miles east of the Freeport cruise port on the way to the Lucayan National Park. The development will accommodate two Excel-class ships simultaneously as well as provide additional infrastructure and jobs for the Bahamian residents. The opening is set for 2025.

“I think Grand Bahama is the most diverse economy in the entire Bahamas,” says Carmel. “I mean, we’ve got the shipyard, we’ve got the container port terminal, and we’ve got tourism.” With tourism comes visitors, who help support the residents through dollars spent in restaurants and retail stores and, more importantly, supports the rebuilding and growth of the island communities and infrastructure. 

Island Time

Driving around the island, there’s no doubt it’s returning to life. The east side vegetation is growing back, homes are being rebuilt, and restaurants, hotels, and businesses are open. The festivities are in full swing as I saw my first night on the island. It was easy to swing into island time at the original weekly fish fry at Smith’s Point which was created more than 40 years ago to support rebuilding St. Jude’s Anglican Church. From Outriggers Beach Club over to GullyWash Beach Bar, fresh fish is fired up on the grill and in the fryers and served up with Bahamian sides, such as baked macaroni and cheese, fry bread, panny cakes, conch fritters, coleslaw, and more. Music, cold beverages, and camaraderie brings the local community and their guests together for a fun, enjoyable evening along the beach. The hot sauce served at GullyWash was so delicious (and hot), that they bottled up a batch for me to take back home. Nothing a few Sands Beers couldn’t cool down.

Speaking of which, the Bahamian Brewery & Beverage Company is 100 percent Bahamian-owned and operated and produces nine different brands, including Bush Crack Malt, Sixty Six Steps Ale, and my go-to, Sands Beer. More than 90,000 bottles or cans of beer are produced every day. That’s a lot of beer.

In the newly published Grand Life magazine, there’s a map of the island showing three sections. “I say, personally, that it’s a depiction of the best of the Bahamas,” says Carmel. “You know, you can drive 45 minutes out of the city of Freeport and be in East Grand Bahama, which is what we refer to as our Eco Wonderland. You have some of the best bonefishing flats in the world right here on Grand Bahama. And those guys that fish know that and will come year after year after year. You can leave the city of Freeport, drive thirty-five minutes in the other direction, and be in West End. This is your ‘out-island’ experience. There’s the village of West End, and above that, you have a place like old Bahama Bay, which is getting ready to do a two point five-million-dollar renovation. You can have luxury comfort while you’re out there. I mean think about it, you’re at this upscale, elegant resort, jump on a little bicycle, ride into the village of West End, and you can meet the fisherman who’s bringing in his catch of the day, or talk to the guy on the side of the street who is scaling his fish and cleaning his conch. Then there’s the little local bars where the guys are ready to shoot the breeze with you for a little while. That’s your typical out-island experience, but it’s here on Grand Bahama.

“And after you’ve done all of that, you say, ‘You know what? I’ve got to stay in my nice hotel room. I need the Wi-Fi, and I’ve got to have that special cognac and nice steak,’” she adds. “You don’t have to give it up when you come here; you don’t have to sacrifice any of that. It’s right here at your fingertips.”

There are those all-inclusive resorts still available on the island back down in Freeport, and some are still building back, but the Viva Wyndham Fortuna Beach Resort is a sprawling property with almost a quarter-mile of beachfront. It has all the amenities and activities you’d expect from an island resort setting, from a dive shop to sail and paddleboard sports to archery, pickleball, and even a trapeze center for those not afraid of heights. There’s plenty to do for the entire family without leaving.

But getting out is what it’s all about. The Lucayan National Park is one of three on Grand Bahama that covers 1,937 acres of land and sea zones, such as the mangrove creek and two caves that combine to form one of the longest charted underwater cave systems in the world. Remember the beach that Capt. Jack Sparrow ran away from the Pelegostos tribe on in Pirates of the Caribbean: Deadman’s Chest? That beach is at the park, and at low tide, you can run away to find some real island time.

Grand Bahama itself is all-inclusive. You can be as active as you like, as quiet and solitary as you like, or blend a little of both. It’s your island time, a time to recover from the stresses of everyday life. Grand Bahama is right there with you.

-by Steve Davis

Cruising The Florida Loop

FLOOPin’ – Florida Loop Cruising

Start your journey anywhere along the route to experience a different kind of Florida.

Looking for a different sort of adventure? Try FLOOPin’—boating along the Florida Loop. You can make a loop around the southern tip of Florida that includes the cut through the Okeechobee Waterway, the stretch along Florida’s southwest coast in the Gulf of Mexico, around the Florida Keys, and along the East Coast (inside via the Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) or outside in the Atlantic) back to your starting point. There is no time limit to your travels, as Florida enjoys cruising weather all year long. 

You may want to prepare for your trip with a cruising guide and a few books, something with a bit of Florida history to plan your stops. You can begin your journey anywhere along the route and go clockwise or counterclockwise. Just cross your wake where you started and you’re FLOOPin’! I promise you will experience a different kind of Florida.

Let’s Start in Miami 

The hustle and bustle of the City of Miami is surrounded by sparkling turquoise water that’s a great start for our Florida Loop. There are faster routes to plot this cruise, but we plan to smell the roses and see the sights by cruising mostly inside on the ICW. With many low drawbridges that require opening for your boat, reduce your air draft by lowering your antennas to make it an easier trip.

Cruising north, look to your right while passing by the inlet ship channel usually filled with cruise liners at the dock. Caution: This channel is closed to pleasure boats even when the cruise ships are not in port as a security protocol. For a great view of south Florida’s waterfront homes, just stay on the inland ICW route.

Tall condos and skyscraper hotels form a canyon path along the ICW for a few miles. But soon the landscape changes as you cruise through Hollywood and Dania Beach. Throughout this adventure, you will be treated to local flora and many sea birds. Keep a sharp eye!

Around 30 miles north of Miami, you arrive at another commercial shipping area known as Port Everglades. Landlubbers call this Fort Lauderdale, home to the International Swimming Hall of Fame, megayachts, and plenty of restaurants to people watch. Marina choices are abundant for the next 50 miles or so. Tie up before setting out on foot to explore the stunning white beaches of the Atlantic Ocean. Anchoring can be a challenge but is possible in this part of the FLOOP for the adventurous cruiser.

Safety First and the Fun Follows

It’s always important to have a lookout for safety purposes but that assigned task is essential in this stretch of the waterway. Incredible architectural designs line both sides of the channel and can steal your attention from key navigation duties. Infinity pools abound with waterfalls inside multistory residences, all part of the unique and contemporary displays. The yachts docked behind these homes are spectacular, too, but remember your responsibility to the rules of the waterway and take precautions. Keep your cruise on track.

By now, you realize that the numerous drawbridges have schedules to open allowing you to maintain slow speeds on this part of the ICW. Check your cruising guide for bridge heights and posted schedules. Always request an opening on VHF channel 9 if your height restricts you from passing under.

Anchorages and New Friends

You’ll soon arrive in the Palm Beaches, nearing the Lake Worth Inlet on your next stop of the Florida Loop. Here, the waterway widens, but let the channel guide you to the deeper water, and respect the manatee zones. Anchorages are plentiful in Lake Worth and farther north. Watch your forecasted wind direction and choose where to lower the hook considering your depth, wind fetch, and the tidal range of about three-and-a-quarter feet
in this area. 

Peanut Island is just west of the inlet and was built by dredging the ship channel. Home to President John F. Kennedy’s bomb shelter during the Cuban Missile Crisis, Peanut Island is a great dinghy stop. Be aware of the high traffic of both pleasure and commercial crafts as you cross the channel. Farther north, the Jupiter Lighthouse along the Loxahatchee River marks a locals-only inlet due to shifting shoals. 

Welcome to old Florida, where bird-watching is an art and quite entertaining. Dolphin have likely been following you, too, so look over the bow rail at these friendly critters or in your side wake to spy these glorious mammals. Soon, you are entering the Treasure Coast starting with Martin County, a less-densely populated area with many golf courses and even horseback rides on the beach. Scrub trees and mangroves mark undeveloped land on both sides of the ICW. Don’t blink or you may miss an iguana or osprey camouflaged in the brush.

Slow Your Ride

The midway point of your Florida Loop comes near the crossroads of the ICW and the start of the Okeechobee Waterway past Jupiter Island, head west to enter the St. Lucie River and Stuart. Take a left past Stuart where the river will lead you to Port Mayaca. Throughout this waterway, you’ll find plenty of choices to stop each evening: marinas, mooring balls, and anchorages. Look at your charts and note the upcoming five locks you will traverse connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico across the state. Two are on the eastern side of Lake Okeechobee to raise you up to lake level. Three more locks will lower you down to the level of the Gulf waters. Contact the lockmasters on VHF channel 13.

Across Lake O

Wait for a favorable weather forecast on your Florida Loop to cross 25 miles of open water on Lake Okeechobee, a very shallow lake. Although it can whip up quickly with a strong wind from any direction, most boats will only feel the uncomfortable beam seas if the wind is strong from the north or south. So wait a day or so in Stuart, and enjoy restaurants or provision in the nearby grocery stores before proceeding.

Wherever you land for the evening, you will see sea cows (manatees) and land cows. That’s right. There is an abundance of cattle trotting alongside the Okeechobee Waterway because Florida has a thriving cattle production. And you thought Florida was just about the beaches and fishing.

Docked in Clewiston? Head to the Clewiston Museum for local history, WWII aeronautical artifacts, and you may even see a working steam engine train in the sugarcane fields. There is more to do along the Okeechobee Waterway than just locking through. Continue up to Moore Haven to pick up the Caloosahatchee Canal to head west over to Fort Myers. 

The Lee County area of the Florida Loop has recently experienced the full force of a Category 4 hurricane but is recovering swiftly. While the entire Okeechobee Waterway is navigable from the Gulf to the Atlantic, check with the Local Notice to Mariners and other online resources, such as waterwayguide.com, for the latest navigation alerts. Likely, you should brush up your anchoring skills if you want to overnight on this part of your adventure, but fuel and provisions are available. 

Heading South 

At the end of the Okeechobee Waterway, cruise south through San Carlos Bay into the Gulf of Mexico. Naples is just 32 miles for a short run to marinas or anchoring. Marco Island is less than 15 miles farther for a longer daily run. If you have a good weather window, it’s a fairly straight 80-mile cruise from Marco Island to Key West. Sometimes, you want to keep your days short; in that case, try the Little Shark River anchorage. If you’re looking for the Conch Republic, you are almost there.

Key West, here we come! Before arriving in this paradise, we recommend securing marina reservations ahead of time. Docking in a slip allows worry-free exploring through the walkable streets of the southernmost part of the U.S. Visit museums, restaurants, and watering holes with lots of character, minding the ever-present wild chickens and Hemingway’s six-toed cats. Don’t miss the daily sunset festivities in Mallory Square complete with street performers—every…single…night.

It’s tough to tear away from the frivolity of this quirky key, but it’s time to move onward north and east as you follow the island chain. Although you are now on the homestretch, the last leg of this FLOOP is simply gorgeous. Meander through the five main keys, each with a unique personality to explore. Crystal, azure water and coral reefs offer sun, snorkel, SCUBA, and fishing to delight on the journey to Biscayne Bay. The skyline of downtown Miami is ready to welcome you back. Crossing your wake means your adventure is over—for now. Bet you’re already planning another FLOOP!

-by Chris Caldwell

Saint Lucia Caribbean Island

Idyllic Island

With beautiful scenery and gorgeous weather, Saint Lucia is a must-stop destination as you cruise the Eastern Caribbean.

A Great Pink Sea Snail gave Saint Lucia Marigot Bay one of its claims to fame. The make-believe critter was a prop Rex Harrison’s character Dr. Dolittle captured in the 1967 film of the same name. Fast-forward 31 years, actor Eddie Murphy starred in the 1998 remake and 2001’s Dr. Dolittle 2. While Murphy didn’t shoot scenes here, he did cruise into the Marigot Bay Yacht Haven Marina (MBM) in 2011 aboard his 229-foot luxury yacht, Sherakhan, for an incognito vacation.

Combine this with another acclaim—novelist James Michener describing Marigot as “the most beautiful bay in the Caribbean” in his 1978-published book Chesapeake—and you have two tremendous reasons to visit. What’s even better is that Marigot is only one of several beautiful bays in St. Lucia ideal for a boating vacation, whether you cruise in on your own hull, charter a yacht, or take a half- or full-day sportfishing charter.

“St. Lucia is ideally located between Martinique, a touch of France, and the Grenadines, a touch of blue heaven, and is home to some of the Caribbean’s warmest people, picturesque backdrops, and best anchorages, including the Pitons. The island also boasts two world-class marina facilities, IGY’s Rodney Bay Marina (RBM) and MBM, with ease of accessibility through all major hubs from the UK, U.S., and Canada,” says Sean Devaux, general manager at IGY’s RBM, with 253 slips that accommodate yachts up to 285 feet in length with a 13-foot draft.

One of the Lesser Antilles’ Windward Islands, the 238-square-mile island of St. Lucia is the 19th largest in the Caribbean Sea. That means lots to see ashore and miles of coastline to explore. The French were the first to plant a European flag here in the late 1600s.

Today, the island is a member of the British Commonwealth but has its own elected prime minister. The official language is English, the currency is the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC), and cellular communications provider, Digicel, supports U.S. frequencies on 2G, 3G, and 4G/LTE, meaning it’s easy to call home.

U.S. residents only need a passport to enter. The island’s major airport, with direct flights from U.S. cities like Charlotte, North Carolina; Miami, and Atlanta, is Hewanorra International Airport located at St. Lucia’s southern tip in Vieux Fort Quarter. There is a new airport water shuttle service called FunToSee Island, which travels from Hewanorra to RBM. The one-way trip is approximately 90 minutes and offers amazing views of St. Lucia’s Caribbean Sea coast.

Cruise In and Around

There are three popular ports of entry for yacht visitors to St. Lucia. Two of these are at RBM to the north of the island in Gros Islet and MBM in Marigot. Both have on-site Customs and Immigration personnel and the clearance process down to a science. A good example is when Rodney Bay clears nearly 150 visiting yachts that arrive within a 10-day window on the UK-based World Sailing’s Atlantic Rally for Cruisers each November.

November through March is the best time to visit when winds are up, temperatures are down, and the island’s restaurants, shops, water sports, attractions, and more are open and in full swing. For those who didn’t BYOB (bring your own boat), there are weeklong yacht charters available. Three companies—12 Knots, DSL Yachting, and The Moorings—have bases at RBM. Each charters fleets of monohulls and catamarans from 39-50 feet via bareboat or with captains and/or chefs. The Moorings also offers power catamarans. 

“One unique offering available to guests chartering in Saint Lucia is the One-Way option, which allows guests to begin their charter in St. Lucia and drop off their yacht at our marina in St. George’s, Grenada,” says Ian Pedersen, senior marketing manager for The Moorings & Sunsail, based in Clearwater, Florida. “This allows guests much more time to experience the full breadth of the Windward Islands—from St. Lucia to St. Vincent, Bequia, Canouan, Mayreau, and on through the Tobago Cays and Grenada—in a one-week charter, as opposed to having the standard round-trip itinerary and returning the yacht to Rodney Bay.” 

For a seven-day cruise around St. Lucia, two don’t-miss anchorages to visit are Pigeon Island and the bay by the Pitons. Pigeon Island, across from RBM in Gros Islet, is perfect for a first-or last-night stop. The island (connected to the mainland by a causeway) is a National Park, with hiking and historic sites such as the 18th-century Fort Rodney. Pigeon is also the site of the annual St. Lucia Jazz & Arts Festival. 

The Pitons are iconic picture-postcard peaks and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, eight miles south of Marigot Bay as the seabird flies. “The majestic Pitons are located in the beautiful scenic community of Soufriere,” says Troy Blanchard, marina manager at MBM, which was purchased in 2021 by JMA Ventures and Southern California-based LLJ Ventures, new owners who have since upgraded both the marina and adjacent resort. “They are the perfect backdrop to any Caribbean yacht charter. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can get up close and personal on a private hike through the rain forest or gaze upon them from above on a private helicopter tour.”

If yacht racing rather than cruising is more your speed, visit the St. Lucia Yacht Club in Rodney Bay. “The club is located on a lovely beach spot very close to the marina entrance to IGY’s Rodney Bay,” says Commodore Peter William Lang. “The original name of the beach was Reduit Beach when the club was started in 1964, and there was nothing else other than a concrete ramp built by the Americans in 1941 for securing their seaplanes.” 

The club’s two-story clubhouse hosts an active learn-to-sail program with Optimists and Lasers, local regattas such as the Diamond Dash from Rodney Bay to Diamond Rock in neighboring Martinique and back and the two-day Round the Islands Race, and annual international events like the Mango Bowl Regatta held each November. It’s noteworthy that the St. Lucia Yacht Club has produced four Olympic sailors, two who competed in Lasers in the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo. Visitors are welcome, members or non-members. There are no docking facilities, but the club has showers, changing rooms, a restaurant, and a full bar.

Go Sportfishing in Saint Lucia

The big game fishery off Saint Lucia is among the best in the Southern Caribbean, says Captain Chris Hackshaw, manager of Hackshaw Boat Charters Ltd., located at the Vigie Marina in Castries. “Blue marlin are the most common billfish caught, with the biggest ones seen between September and November,” he adds. “The beauty of fishing here is that we are surrounded by two major drop-offs, which follow the contour of St. Lucia. The first is the three-thousand-foot drop and the second is a six-thousand-foot drop. These produce some of the biggest billfish and tuna.”

The more popular ledges are Grand Sec, Lef Didier, and Fond Blanc. Working these spots, says Hackshaw, usually ends in a productive outing, with catches being anything from a large blue marlin to a boatload of mackerel. There are also several FADS (Fish Aggregating Devices) located along the northwest to the southeast coast, with the most successful off the west coast fishing villages. One of these is off Anse La Raye, located south of Marigot and north of Soufriere. It’s famous for its Friday Night Fish Fry, a good indication of the productiveness of the fishery offshore.

“We also have amazing dorado (mahi) and wahoo fishing, which peaks from February to May, usually around weed lines or drifting debris,” says Hackshaw. “The inshore fishing and reef fishing is also one not to miss, with many groupers, snappers, Jacks, etc., caught on the reefs and shallow banks near the shoreline.” 

Hackshaw’s Boat Charters offers two main vessels, its 31-foot Bertram Bahia Mar, Blue Boy, and its 47-foot Buddy Davis, Limited Edition. Also, at Vigie Marina, Captain Mike’s fleet includes the 46-foot Bertram, Lucky Strike; 43-foot Bertram, Rocky Bluff; and two 38-foot Bertrams, Sea Hunter and Hack Attack. Both Hackshaw’s and Captain Mike’s offer half- and full-day sportfishing charters that are fully equipped with rods, reels, tackle, bait, and beverages like beer, soda, and water.

The St. Lucia Game Fishing Association has hosted its annual International Billfish Tournament out of IGY’s Rodney Bay Marina, although it have yet to resume post-pandemic. Traditionally, this event welcomes more than 100 anglers and boats from surrounding islands as well as the U.S. and UK. In the past, the Best Boat winner of this event earned entry into the Offshore World Championship, held in Quepos, Costa Rica, each April.

Cruising or sportfishing, or simply for a beachside swim, snorkel, or cocktail sip, St. Lucia is a destination to mark on your must-do marine travel map. StLucia.org

-by Carol Bareuther

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