Many areas in The Bahamas make tricky work of anchoring, especially where reversing currents can break out an anchor and set you adrift. The Bimini Channel, Normans Cay Cut in the Exumas and the North Current Cut near Eleuthera are three notorious places that wreak havoc with anchored boats as the tides turn. If you want to sleep well at night, review your technique, your choice of anchorages and your ground tackle before your next anchoring adventure.
Bahamian Moor
S/V Kai Kanani II Photo credit: Tavis Jacobs
A popular two-anchor technique that works well in reversing currents is the appropriately named Bahamian moor. Two bow anchors are set 180 degrees apart with the bow of the boat as the midpoint. Drop the first anchor up-current, motor back and set it, letting out double the rode you’ll need for a 7:1 ratio of rode to depth. Drop the second anchor down current, then fall back to the midway position and snug up both lines. Take care not to wrap the line in the props when backing down on the second anchor. If nearby boats lie to one anchor, your swinging radius will be different from theirs so give them plenty of room.
A Bahamian moor works best when a consistent wind blows across the current and keeps the bow steady in one direction. Without a breeze, the boat may spin as the current reverses, twisting the lines. You can minimize this in two ways: First, if possible, cleat one anchor line at the bow on one side and the other a few feet back on the other side. The boat will not be able to spin in place with both lines taut. Second, use a swivel with three lengths of chain. The swivel has two eyes or shackles on one side to connect to the chain leading down to the two anchors, and one shackle on the other end connects to a third length of chain that reaches up to the vessel. Regardless of the boat’s dance at the surface, the swivel does all the twisting. Keep in mind, however, that this method takes advanced preparation, extra equipment and more time to set and retrieve the anchors.
Holding Ground
Most Bahamas anchoring is done in less than 15 feet of water, so 100-120 feet of chain or line should be sufficient. A bow lookout can guide the driver to a nice patch of sand on an otherwise grassy bottom and watch for the telltale cloud as the anchor makes contact. When setting the anchor, take care not to pull it out of the sand and into the grass. Hitting a small target with an anchor hanging off a moving vessel requires practice. Don’t be shy about repeating the process until you’re successful—it’ll be worth it.
On a coral pan, there is nothing for an anchor to dig into and it will generally just slide on its side without hooking up. This is a dangerous situation and you’ll recognize a dragging anchor by the chain skipping or jerking in the bow roller. Always try to snorkel on your anchor to check its position and its environment. An anchor painted white is easier to spot underwater and is an easy DIY project.
Of course, the last tip—which arguably should be the first—is don’t anchor in sketchy places like cuts where water gets squeezed and currents speed up. If a mellower anchorage is one bay over from where you’d like to snorkel, use the dinghy to commute, but stay overnight around the corner.
The Best Anchor
Types of anchor are a hotly debated subject. I find at a bar, the opinions grow louder and convictions stronger with each cocktail. The truth is that the best anchor is the one that fits the circumstances: type of holding ground, current, and tides, and the type and size of boat. In a perfect world, we’d have one of every sort just to be safe.
Not having that kind of space or budget, I carry three: a Manson Supreme, an original Bruce, and a Fortress. The first two are on the bow and the last one is used as a stern anchor because it’s aluminum, so it’s light and easy to manage by hand from the stern or dinghy.
My Manson (similar to a Rocna) has dragged only once and that was in the grass, the nemesis of all anchors. I’ve found the advantage of a claw like the Bruce or Lewmar, is that it tends to reset quickly and typically on its own if it breaks out. Fortress and Danforth anchors with opening flukes are excellent in mud and sand and stow easily off the bow roller on smaller vessels. I’ve also had good luck with a Delta and a Spade.
I believe in all chain rode, at least for the primary anchor. The chain won’t chafe through on rock or coral, creates a nice catenary and adds a bit of heft to an undersized anchor. The secondary anchor should have chain equal to at least one length of the boat and another 100-150 feet of nylon rode. My stern Fortress has 50 feet of chain and 265 feet of flat polyester webbing on a Quickline that stows nicely.
Windlass Wisdom
A working windlass is key to any successful anchoring routine. For a Bahamian moor, a windlass should have a chain gypsy on one side and a line winch on the other. If you haven’t serviced your windlass in a while or even used it for that matter, remember that it’s cheap insurance so it should be in working order. Take off the cover, check the pawls, lubricate necessary points, and lay eyes on the wire connections to ensure they’re solid.
Finally, be sure to check the weather before choosing an anchorage, and set an anchor alarm on your GPS. Then, I promise, you’ll sleep like a baby.
An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.
No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
The clean sandy beach at Bimini Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
An ocean view from N. Bimini Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A view from the Great Harbour Cay Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
1. Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Biminito clear Customs.
The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.
2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.
Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.
3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.
Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.
Watching a storm from a gazebo on Treasure Cay Beach at the Coco Beach Bar. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The intense colors of a storm on Treasure Cay Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Susan Landry combing the beach for a remembrance. Photo: Chuck Baier.
4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.
Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.
5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.
Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.
Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas
6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.
From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.
Dinghies tied to the dock at Abaco. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A conch shell pile in Gregory Town. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Anchored on the public dock at Green Turtle Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A spectacular view of the ocean from a beach house deck on Sip Sip Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.
This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.
8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.
The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.
9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.
Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.
Three dinghies anchored on Powerful Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A fish market near Fort Montagu. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Chuck Baier and Susan Landry enjoy the view of Great Harbour Cay from the swim platform of their trawler “Sea Trek.”
Public beach at Rainbow Beach and Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.
We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.
11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.
Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.
12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.
Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.
Hope Town lighthouse an downtown view from a beach dune. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Beach houses on South Palmetto Point. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The lighthouse on Paradise Island. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Palm trees and the ocean view on Montagu Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:
Anchors & Equipment During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.
The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.
You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.
Finding the Right Spot Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.
Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot. Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.
By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015
About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.
Island hop this cruiser’s paradise in which scenery, characters and proximity appeal to novice and experienced boaters alike.
The dinghies approached us as if they had suddenly materialized on the water, before we even had a chance to grab onto a mooring. Time to pay up the mooring ball fee, we thought. Instead the men broke out singing. “Oh, what a beautiful morning,” belted out Sacko Sam under the high noon sun. That’s the kind of unforgettable welcome you get in the British Virgin Islands, where the serenity of the islands, majestic sceneries and colorful characters charm and invite you for a new adventure, no matter how many times you’ve cruised their turquoise seas.
In early August the Southern Boating crew composed of my family and friends took off for a seven day cruise aboard two powercats from The Moorings charter fleet, the 514PC and the 393PC. The trip was to give us quality time together, and while one cat would have accommodated all 10 of us, I had an ulterior motive: a learning experience for the younger generation (my children) to learn to navigate, read the waters and charts, monitor the onboard machinery, and master anchoring and mooring techniques. In short, they would man their very own vessel in unfamiliar waters. From the distance of my powercat, I watched (as a proud father, teacher and captain) as they gained confidence and at times took the lead, guiding them when necessary.
After a quick stop in Road Town on Tortola (The Moorings’ base) to pick up our powercats, we departed for this archipelago of 60 islands, where one seemingly hops from island to island—a boater’s cruising paradise (and an ideal learning ground).
First on our journey: an easy and short southeast cruise to Cooper Island less than 7 nm away—a perfect way for the crew to familiarize itself with the vessels, take the dinghies out and relax in the crystal waters.
Skip Allen at the helm of the Mooring powercat.
Majestic mountains and crystal waters await everyone at The Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda Island.
The colorful corals and sea life on the ocean floor of Virgin Gorda Island.
Our home for a week aboard one of The Moorings powercats.
Sacko Sam from Potter’s By The Sea on Anegada Island prepares a succulent dinner of monster lobster.
One of the Southern Boating crew member proudly showing off the large lobster he will eat later.
A typical afternoon on the white sandy beaches of the B.V.I.
On your next trip to Anegada Island, visit Potter’s By The Sea and see the many remembrances from our and other travelers.
The sign marks the spot of famed Foxy’s Bar on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour.
This charter experience created great memories and a stronger bond among the crew.
A Southern Boating “mermaid” during one of the many snorkeling adventures.
A crew member enjoying a stroll through the gargantuan boulders of The Baths on Virgin Gorda.
The bewitching braided trees and stone stacking on George Dog.
A mechanical issue on the 51′ powercat—a fizzling air conditioner due to trapped seaweed in the intake—had us cruising uncomfortably under high temperatures for a bit, yet failed to derail our plans. One of The Moorings’ certified technicians—who are scattered throughout the islands and readily available—quickly met us at our next stop, immediately identified and fixed the common problem as we explored (our minds at ease) The Bath and its gargantuan boulders on the south end of Virgin Gorda Island. The dazzling granite boulders, reminders of the island’s volcanic origins, form natural sheltered pools and scenic grottoes. Take the dinghy around a bit before you pick a spot to start exploring or be prepared for a lot of swimming to go around the boulders. We spent the evening docked at Bitter End Yacht Club, where we feasted at its landmark Clubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille, a favorite rendezvous for visiting boaters for its sea-to-table approach.
It was right as we arrived on Anegada Island—the longest jaunt of our trip—that the serenading men in their dinghies met us, their songs meant to lure us to their eateries and the island’s specialty: lobster. Sam, the jubilant chef of Potter’s By The Sea won us over, and after making our dinner reservations arranged for a taxi to take us to Loblolly Beach on the north shore for an afternoon of snorkeling on the Eastern Caribbean’s third largest continuous reef—where baby octopi, monster lobsters and yellowtail fish inhabit the vibrant corals. We made a quick stop at Flash of Beauty Beach, an improvised shack-like bar with its self-service refrigerator—as if walking into someone’s back porch straight from the seas—where the owner, a woman from Trinidad and Tobago decked out in a muumuu, sandals and head wrap entertained us with tales from the island. Wild goats and cattle roamed the flat and dry terrain, interspersed by marshes, where hundreds of bright pink flamingoes gathered on the road back to Potter’s By The Sea. As the sun came down, the simple and colorful shack house with its wooden picnic tables came to life with strings of lights dangling from the tin ceiling. Sam danced and sang by the grill. T-shirts and flags from previous visitors hang on the roof. We added our own decór contribution and left a Southern Boating shirt behind.
While Great Dog Island was our next intended destination, the lack of available moorings led us to Kitchen Point on George Dog. There, the trees’ long branches shot out and seemingly braided with one another to form natural trellises, where visitors left balanced stacks of rocks behind—we added our own. We docked at Scrub Island Resort & Marina on Scrub Island, reveled in their salt water two-level infinity pool—the slide takes you from the top level with pool bar right to the bottom—and shopped at the many boutiques before enjoying a scrumptious dinner of fresh seafood at Tierra! Tierra! under the stars. Back at the docks, a real spectacle awaited us as jellyfish and tarpons glided in the waters lit by colorful underwater lights.
We encountered yet another character on Brewers Bay on the northern coast of Tortola. Miss Lou, a petite woman in her 70s with weathered skin and a knack for captivating anecdotes, owned yet another small bar along the white sandy beach. It was as we sat enjoying our drinks, taking in the view of the mountains and recounting Miss Lou’s stories that we almost lost one of our dinghies—not pulled nearly far enough on the sand, it gave in to the waves that took it hundreds of yards away. (It does happen to the most experienced of boaters.)
We moored on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour and strolled along the waterside road with its bars, gift shops, dive shops, small markets, and a fresh drink at Foxy’s Bar. The next day we moved westward to White Bay, home of the famed Soggy Dollar Bar, where patrons linger to play a game of ring toss. We finished our cruise with a visit to Norman Island known for its legends and tales of pirates and treasures, where more snorkeling awaited us within the dark caves of Treasure Point.
The laid-back vibe of the B.V.I. and the proximity of the islands invite you to abandon your agenda and just go with the flow. Whether the lack of moorings, the weather, your crew’s change of heart—or their newly gained confidence—allow yourself to hop from islets to cays and coves, take in the scenery, and discover the B.V.I again and again through the eyes of its most colorful characters.
Bahamian history buffs must visit Preacher’s Cave in North Eleuthera. Standing inside the cave leads you to imagine the Eleutheran Adventurers who were shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone in 1648 and suffered through their early years with few supplies in a location where agriculture and raising livestock were a major challenge. The Adventurers built the first permanent settlements in The Bahamas. They were tough, Christian souls whose descendants in Harbour Island, Spanish Wells and Governor’s Harbour have maintained their traditions of hard work and charity. Preacher’s Cave is in the portfolio of the Antiquities, Monuments & Museums Corporation and can be reached by paved road or by a short walk from the beach. For added knowledge, the most comprehensive history of The Bahamas is probably Islanders in the Stream by Michael Craton and Gail Saunders.
Safety Steps
Cruisers in The Bahamas—and in any foreign waters for that matter—should follow these precautions to ensure safety and peace of mind during your voyage:
• Keep your boat in a marina with good security or anchor near other boats.
• Keep your dinghy out of the water.
• Never walk more than one city block at night. Jitneys are okay in the day but taxis are necessary after dark.
• Stay out of local night clubs and bars. The large restaurants, hotels and casinos are safe.
• Teenagers and young adults should be especially careful because they are frequently targeted.
• Ask dockmasters and hotel managers for local advice.
New VAT Tax
The primary problem with the VAT tax is visceral (no one likes taxes) but the VAT tax is an honest attempt to make the tax system more efficient and ultimately more fair. In the past most government revenues have been from import duties and tourist taxes. The Bahamian government estimated that it was only collecting about 50 percent of import duties due to cheating, graft and cumbersome administration.
The VAT tax of 7.5 percent will be levied on almost all goods and services, but many import duties will be reduced to compensate for some of this new tax burden. Ultimately, Bahamian citizens and tourists will pay more tax, but the intention is to keep the increase low. Most businesses are properly set up to collect the VAT tax, but an adjustment period is expected.
When all is considered, The Bahamas is still a bargain. Most boats pay only $300 for a year of uninterrupted cruising, and most enter full of stores and fuel. Food is expensive but liquor is reasonable. Restaurants and marina prices are comparable to the United States and Canada, and anchoring is free. You are allowed a generous catch of fish, and, best of all, you are cruising in one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Preacher’s Cave was a shelter and place of worship for the Eleutheran Adventurers.
Great Harbour Cay Marina
Great Harbour Cay Marina may be the best hurricane marina in The Bahamas, as it is located in a hole within a pond. For a simple residence with an excellent place to keep a boat and access to some of the best all-around fishing in The Bahamas you would do well to make a visit. Or for more luxurious options, purchase or build on the magnificent eastern shore.
Great Harbour Cay Marina has recently received a facelift, and work is still in progress. The docks have freshly painted pilings, and the Dockmaster’s office and the restrooms have been refurbished. The Pool Bar & Grill is open every day for lunch and supper. The Beach Bar on the eastern beach is a reasonable walk by road and an easy walk across the old golf course. The bar has a spectacular view, which is complemented by excellent food and service. Expect a DJ with lively music on holidays and special occasions.
The old golf course is minimally maintained by a group of winter residents for golfers wanting some fun and exercise. You may have to tee up your ball on the fairways, but you can play your way down to the Beach Bar and back. Ask at the marina if there are any locals playing the course. They always love the company.
Osprey
These magnificent raptors are doing well and are another environmental success story. Tagging studies have proven that many of the birds are Bahamian residents but some migrate from as far as New England.
Anchoring
Most boats these days use solid chain (with a snubber to prevent noise and shock) with their anchors. Cruisers might consider using only two or three fathoms of chain and a nylon rode with their primary anchor. Everyone should be anchoring in clear sand where chafe is not a problem, and nylon line provides plenty of strength and cushion. There is a surprising amount of marine life in the sand. Chain and nylon will keep you safe and reduce your impact on the environment
