Tag: Preacher’s Cave

Spanish Wells

Spanish Wells: a cruising crossroads

For the cruising boat, Spanish Wells sits at the crossroads of the Abacos, Nassau, Exumas, and other Out Islands of The Bahamas. It has a long history of European
settlement, stretching to the 17th century, but seemingly hasn’t changed much in all that time. The name Spanish Wells really refers to the town itself and is usually applied to the general area. It is made up of three closely spaced islands separated only by the narrow harbor. St. George’s Cay is where the primary settlement lies, but it is connected by a low bridge to Russell Island just across from the waterfront, where many homes and fishing boats can be found. At the east end of the harbor, Charles Island is uninhabited but protects the town and harbor from strong south winds and seas. All of this lies just off the northwest tip of Eleuthera and at the north end of the Exumas section of the Great  Bahama Bank.

Fresh well water was discovered here during the period of European exploration, a precious commodity in those times, leading to the name of the settlement. The first European settlers were part of the Eleutheran Adventurers group shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone in 1647 who used a cave as shelter.

Coming from Bermuda seeking religious freedom, part of  the group ultimately  established themselves on St. George’s Cay. More settlers arrived as Loyalists from the newly independent United States in the late 1700s and sought refuge elsewhere in the British empire, but they were only allowed to come if they gave up their slaves. The result was an isolated, religious, independent community that remained so well into the 20th century. In the 1970s and ’80s, the town emerged from that solitude to become the premier commercial fishing port in The Bahamas, supplying “crawfish” (spiny lobster) to much of The Bahamas. Today, this is one of the wealthier towns in these islands, with well-maintained homes and businesses painted in bright pastel colors.

Spanish Wells is a popular and enjoyable stop for cruisers, with many attractions on land and in the water, a well-protected harbor, marine services, and numerous anchorages nearby among the surrounding islands. The primary entry is between Russell and Charles Islands, a narrow but well-marked and dredged cut with good depths. This entrance is used by freighters, large fishing boats and the fast ferry and is relatively straightforward.

Once through the gateway, turn sharply to port to reach Spanish Wells Yacht Haven, a full-service marina with excellent facilities, or turn to starboard to reach the small mooring field at the east end of the harbor. If you are arriving directly from the U.S. or elsewhere, you can clear customs at this Port of Entry. There is a second entrance to the harbor from the east side between Charles Island and St. George’s. It is also well charted with minimum depths of about six feet but is most often used when heading to or from Harbour Island. Fuel is readily available in the harbor, and great provisioning is right on the waterfront; given that this is a fishing town, seafood can be found easily.

The waters around Spanish Wells and east along Devil’s Backbone are well-known for fantastic SCUBA diving. The reefs have claimed many ships over the centuries, and a number of these wrecks are at accessible depths and still visible, some by snorkeling. About six miles away, Current Cut is often done as a drift dive in strong currents. In addition, locals have created multiple artificial reefs with everything from railroad cars to old automobiles. There are several dive companies in town and on nearby  Harbour Island, and some of the sportfishing operations also offer dive trips. About eight miles away over the banks to the southwest, Egg Island has good surfing in a north swell on the ocean side but behind a sheltering reef.

By Rex Noel, Southern Boating October 2017

See more Bahamas Updates with these Fall Events.

Preacher’s Cave brings history to life

Bahamian history buffs must visit Preacher’s Cave in North Eleuthera. Standing inside the cave leads you to imagine the Eleutheran Adventurers who were shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone in 1648 and suffered through their early years with few supplies in a location where agriculture and raising livestock were a major challenge. The Adventurers built the first permanent settlements in The Bahamas. They were tough, Christian souls whose descendants in Harbour Island, Spanish Wells and Governor’s Harbour have maintained their traditions of hard work and charity. Preacher’s Cave is in the portfolio of the Antiquities, Monuments & Museums Corporation and can be reached by paved road or by a short walk from the beach. For added knowledge, the most comprehensive history of The Bahamas is probably Islanders in the Stream by Michael Craton and Gail Saunders.

Safety Steps

Cruisers in The Bahamas—and in any foreign waters for that matter—should follow these precautions to ensure safety and peace of mind during your voyage:

• Keep your boat in a marina with good security or anchor near other boats.

• Keep your dinghy out of the water.

• Never walk more than one city block at night. Jitneys are okay in the day but taxis are necessary after dark.

• Stay out of local night clubs and bars. The large restaurants, hotels and casinos are safe.

• Teenagers and young adults should be especially careful because they are frequently targeted.

• Ask dockmasters and hotel managers for local advice.

New VAT Tax

The primary problem with the VAT tax is visceral (no one likes taxes) but the VAT tax is an honest attempt to make the tax system more efficient and ultimately more fair. In the past most government revenues have been from import duties and tourist taxes. The Bahamian government estimated that it was only collecting about 50 percent of import duties due to cheating, graft and cumbersome administration.

The VAT tax of 7.5 percent will be levied on almost all goods and services, but many import duties will be reduced to compensate for some of this new tax burden. Ultimately, Bahamian citizens and tourists will pay more tax, but the intention is to keep the increase low. Most businesses are properly set up to collect the VAT tax, but an adjustment period is expected.

When all is considered, The Bahamas is still a bargain. Most boats pay only $300 for a year of uninterrupted cruising, and most enter full of stores and fuel. Food is expensive but liquor is reasonable. Restaurants and marina prices are comparable to the United States and Canada, and anchoring is free. You are allowed a generous catch of fish, and, best of all, you are cruising in one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Preacher’s Cave was a shelter and place of worship for the Eleutheran Adventurers.

Great Harbour Cay Marina

Great Harbour Cay Marina may be the best hurricane marina in The Bahamas, as it is located in a hole within a pond. For a simple residence with an excellent place to keep a boat and access to some of the best all-around fishing in The Bahamas you would do well to make a visit. Or for more luxurious options, purchase or build on the magnificent eastern shore.

Great Harbour Cay Marina has recently received a facelift, and work is still in progress. The docks have freshly painted pilings, and the Dockmaster’s office and the restrooms have been refurbished. The Pool Bar & Grill is open every day for lunch and supper. The Beach Bar on the eastern beach is a reasonable walk by road and an easy walk across the old golf course. The bar has a spectacular view, which is complemented by excellent food and service. Expect a DJ with lively music on holidays and special occasions.

The old golf course is minimally maintained by a group of winter residents for golfers wanting some fun and exercise. You may have to tee up your ball on the fairways, but you can play your way down to the Beach Bar and back. Ask at the marina if there are any locals playing the course. They always love the company.

Osprey

These magnificent raptors are doing well and are another environmental success story. Tagging studies have proven that many of the birds are Bahamian residents but some migrate from as far as New England.

Anchoring

Most boats these days use solid chain (with a snubber to prevent noise and shock) with their anchors. Cruisers might consider using only two or three fathoms of chain and a nylon rode with their primary anchor. Everyone should be anchoring in clear sand where chafe is not a problem, and nylon line provides plenty of strength and cushion. There is a surprising amount of marine life in the sand. Chain and nylon will keep you safe and reduce your impact on the environment

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating March 2015

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