Category: U.S. Gulf

Warmer waters make for cooler cruising. Southern Boating publishes a U.S. Gulf Coast Regional Report each month to make your Gulf Coast cruising a success. Chock-full of information for everywhere from the panhandle of Florida to the tip of Texas—Southern Boating gives you the lowdown on all events, happenings, marinas, destinations, and more!

Emerald Gulf Coast

Follow the Emerald Gulf Coast

Head west along the sparkling green water from Destin to Orange Beach for great fishing and fantastic seafood.

There are stretches along the Gulf of Mexico coastline where time seems to run on the whims of an eccentric generator. Along Florida’s Emerald Coast from Destin to Orange Beach, Alabama, the turquoise waters and sparkling beaches radiate a welcome stillness reminiscent of days long gone. As you walk the beaches, you leave footprints on the powdered-sugar sands that once were the tops of the Appalachian Mountains. The sand, made from pure-white quartz crystal, was transported from the mountains to the Gulf at the end of the last Ice Age.

The Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GICW) lies inside the sandy barrier islands and crisscrosses a series of estuaries, swamps, captivating towns, and open waters for a good sail. Some of the best Gulf Coast sailing for smaller vessels is on Choctawhatchee Bay in the Florida Panhandle. There are three direct entrances to the GICW between Destin and Orange Beach, making offshore cruising less risky than in other sections of the Gulf.

Destin

Destin, once a tiny coastal hamlet on the bay’s southern shore, now calls itself “The World’s Luckiest Fishing Village” and is known for superb saltwater fishing. Due to quick access to the Gulf and the proximity of the famed 100 Fathom curve with its 600-foot depth, the opportunities are endless. 

Destin is home to many types of fishing: surf, pier, bay, deep-sea, and more. Each has its fans, and the catch depends on the season. Hook flounder, sheepshead, sea trout, and even tarpon inshore. Mackerel, cobia, amberjack, grouper, and red snapper lurk nearshore; wahoo, mahi-mahi, and tuna await in the deep. To get the real flavor of Destin’s 175-year history, and maybe a couple of fish tales, visit the Destin History & Fishing Museum, a little gem near the foot of the Destin Bridge.

North America’s largest private charter fishing fleet is docked at Destin Harbor. Some vessels hold up to 45 hopeful anglers; smaller boats accommodate a more private trip. Most charters include licenses, tackle, and bait. With more than 170 charter companies, FishingBooker might be the simplest way to find the most suitable.

Don’t care about catching, but fond of eating fish? Brotula’s Seafood House & Steamer is a rustic yet refined southern fish house specializing in local seafood and shellfish platters. Its name is borrowed from the tasty bearded brotula caught in local waters at depths of 350 feet. 

For a meatier meal in “New York Irish Pub” style, step into McGuire’s Irish Pub. If reading the menu isn’t entertainment enough, lively Irish musicians will get your feet tapping. Add a few bucks to the millions of dollar bills hanging on the walls left by visitors from around the world.

Slips to 85 feet are available at HarborWalk Marina in HarborWalk Village. A bustling entertainment/retail complex, the Village has live music, fireworks, and a variety of water sports rentals.

The southwest corner of Choctawhatchee Bay is anchored by laid-back Fort Walton Beach. Dock at the gated Fort Walton Yacht Basin on Santa Rosa Sound next door to The Shack, a historic seafood eatery.  

The area has two excellent museums. The Indian Temple Mound Museum in the heart of historic downtown exhibits 1,000 artifacts depicting 12,000 years of Native American occupation and impressive collections of prehistoric ceramics from European explorers, local pirates, and early settlers. The Air Force Armament Museum on Eglin Air Force Base is dedicated to military artifacts and memorabilia, including more than 29 different aircraft from the WWII era to the present. 

The Island Pier, jutting 1,262 feet into the Gulf on the west end of Okaloosa Island, is one of the best places to fish in the region. The fish are always biting, and there are spectacular views of dolphins, sea turtles, herons, and pelicans.

There are no entrances to the GICW from East Pass (Mile Marker 227.7 East of Harvey Lock (MM 227.7 EHL)) in Destin to Pensacola Bay (MM 179.7 EHL). 

For clear open water and peaceful beaches with few inhabitants, cruise the numerous islands in the waterway between Brooks Bridge in Fort Walton Beach and Navarre, where everyone embraces a lazy pace. 

Navarre

Navarre is a compact beach community with 12 miles of pristine-white shoreline and the longest fishing pier in Florida. Stroll 30 feet above the waterline along the pier’s 1,545-foot length for a wide-angle view of sand dunes rolling for miles in either direction.

For sport divers, Navarre Beach Marine Sanctuary has three artificial reefs, two in Santa Rosa Sound and one offshore. At Soundside, or Gulfside, expect to see colorful fish, sea turtles, rays, jellyfish, and octopuses.

It’s an easy cruise through Santa Rosa Sound to Gulf Breeze, yet another great fishing spot at the mouth of Pensacola Bay. Charter-seekers like Gulf Breeze Guide Service which, for 40 years, has specialized in fly and light tackle fishing around the area.

Above and below the horizon, there’s a lot to see around Pensacola Bay. The Blue Angels often thunder overhead during practice maneuvers. The Pensacola Lighthouse and Maritime Museum, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, has been named one of America’s Most Haunted Lighthouses. For divers, the world’s largest artificial reef, retired aircraft carrier USS Oriskany, lies 24 miles offshore.

Sabine Marina is a 64-slip marina located in Little Sabine Bay inside Pensacola Beach. Its entrance parallels the southwest side of the Pensacola Beach Bridge. There are a number
of marinas, including the full-service Pensacola Shipyard, located on the southwest side of Pensacola in the protected waters of Bayou Chico at GICW MM 183 EHL.

Continuing on, Big Lagoon is a favorite anchorage west of Pensacola Pass in the lee of Perdido Key. Good holding ground, a one-foot tidal range, and plenty of open water just 15 feet deep make dropping the hook fairly uncomplicated.

With Gulf Islands National Seashore and three Florida state parks in proximity, Perdido Key safeguards some of the beach’s most fragile and magnificent assets: wispy sea oats, critical dunes, and nesting birds and sea turtles. 

Orange Beach

Surrounded by water in all directions and in Alabama territory, charming Orange Beach is a boating and fishing wonderland nicknamed the “Red Snapper Capital of the World.” From the bayous to the reefs, and all the way out to the oil rigs, catches include several delicacies besides snapper.

Photo Credit: Eva Faircloth – Gulf Shore Orange Beach Tourism

Perdido Pass offers up incredible fishing where the Gulf and inshore waters meet. Common inshore catches are mackerel, redfish, and speckled trout. A crew of proven fishermen run Orange Beach Fishing Charters and Saltwater Fishing Guides providing private and shared fishing charters.

Orange Beach (MM 159 EHL) has freshly caught seafood eating options from weathered beach shacks to fine-dining. SanRoc Cay and The Wharf are large retail and restaurant complexes with extensive options. 

Orange Beach Marina, a full-service facility in a fully protected harbor off Terry Cove, can accommodate yachts up to 130 feet. About five minutes at idle from the Gulf, it offers easy access to the GICW. 

There are several places to explore nearby. Robinson Island, just north of Perdido Pass in Terry Cove, is a pleasant place to anchor and spend the day on the beach. Nearby Walker Island has a lovely lagoon and a long strip of white-sand beach. Cruise the calm water and private canals of Ono Island in Perdido Bay for a view of gorgeous homes and, perhaps, a stray dolphin or two.

The Emerald Coast is likely to keep you hanging out for a good amount of time, but when you do decide to hit it, the Gulf Islands National Seashore continues west as well as New Orleans and beyond. 

-by Ellen Honey

Cruising the Texas Coast

Cajun Coastline

Make your way down the Texas ICW from Kemah to Corpus Christi

The Texas coastline journeys in a gentle new moon arc from the Cajun flavor of Port Arthur on Sabine Pass to the tropical feel of Port Isabel on the Rio Grande. It’s a working coastline where shrimpers, oil riggers, and barge captains compete for territory on the water, while seaside communities and entire ecosystems struggle for survival against devastating hurricanes and a rapidly changing climate. 

Pleasure boats share the Texas Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) with heavy commercial traffic. Vessels traveling the waterway handle 90 million tons of freight annually, and Texas ports are key shipping hubs for North America. Many of the numerous overhead cables crossing the ICW carry high voltage; take extra caution in threatening weather. In the 2020 count, 15 passes link the Gulf to the ICW and sheltered water, but many are extremely shallow and benefit from local knowledge. Don’t hesitate to ask. Coastal residents are naturally friendly and helpful to visitors.

Wind in My Face

For years a drab, sprawling oil town, Houston has evolved into the “Capital of Southern Cool” with a city center well worth a long weekend visit. The 35 miles of Bay Area Houston coastline is lined with varied attractions including the San Jacinto Museum of History, NASA’s Johnson Space Center, the Butler Longhorn Museum, and the Armand Bayou Nature Center, one of the country’s largest urban wilderness preserves. 

The region’s sailing hub and home to one of the largest sailing fleets in the U.S. are the waters around Kemah, from the Karankawa Indian word meaning “wind in my face,” and neighboring Clear Lake which has the most populated boating waters in Texas. Beware, the interior can be shallow for a larger vessel. 

Kemah Boardwalk is a 60-acre entertainment complex alive with waterfront restaurants, amusement rides, summer concerts, and Salsa Sunday dance lessons. Aside from daily events, every holiday has a festival. The most popular is Yachty Gras when boats festooned with lights and regalia parade through the Kemah-Seabrook channel.

The western shoreline from Clear Lake to Galveston Bay is lined with marinas providing ample transient dockage. Seabrook Marina & Shipyard has more than 650 slips, including multihull and catamaran vessels, to 125 feet. Its repair facility can handle boats to 80 feet. Kemah Boardwalk Marina, located bay side of the south-end base of the Kemah-Seabrook Bridge, has 414 deepwater, floating dock slips with wide finger piers.

Out on the Barrier Islands

“The Republic of Galveston,” as locals call it, a somewhat worse for wear but still beguiling Southern city, reflects the influence of its earlier inhabitants: Native American, Spanish, French, pirates and outlaws, plunderers and profiteers.

The local trolley passes elegant Victorian-style buildings housing a fascinating selection of art galleries, restaurants, and museums on its journey to the Strand Historic District, home to The Grand 1894 Opera House, Pier 21 entertainment area, and the 1877 Tall Ship Elissa. The Grand 1894 Opera House, survivor of multiple hurricanes and two pandemics, is a historic venue beloved by its performers. 

Local favorite Sunflower Bakery & Cafe serves brunch daily until 5PM (closed on Tuesdays). Head to Little Daddy’s Gumbo Bar for soul-warming comfort food, burgers, and po’ boys. For a Texas-inspired, button-popping experience, order the Ultimate Naughty Nacho (waffle chips, four scoops, four toppings, whipped cream, cherries, and nuts) at Hey Mikey’s Ice Cream.

More than half the coastline between Galveston and Corpus Christi is protected by low-lying barrier islands which create large bays and lagoons for safe sailing. South Texas is never short on wind; it blows more than 300 days a year from the southeast off the Gulf. If it’s coming from any other direction, experienced sailors advise staying inside.

The Wild Side

The ICW passes three national wildlife preserves and several small communities, each with a distinct personality. No frills here; just balmy breezes, boat-to-fork seafood, and repeated opportunities to experience nature or to hit the beach, the local shops, or the fishing grounds.

Matagorda Bay is scattered with fishing towns like Port O’Connor, a virtually undiscovered angler’s heaven. In Palacios, the “Shrimp Capital of Texas,” recreational boaters share the harbor with Texas’ largest fishing fleet along with nearly 200 shrimp trawlers, one of the biggest concentrations in the country. 

For a peaceful weekday getaway where seagulls are the major source of conversation, try 26-mile Matagorda Beach near the mouth of the Colorado River. The beach has minimal services but is home to a more than 1,330-acre nature park. Matagorda Harbor, at MM 440, has slips for boats to 100 feet, fuel, bait, and a restaurant.

Along the more than 40-nautical mile stretch from Port O’Connor to Rockport, cruisers are often joined by pelicans and dolphins. In Aransas Bay, the waterway passes Aransas National Wildlife Refuge which provides nesting grounds for Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles and foraging habitat for piping plovers. North America’s tallest birds, five-foot whooping cranes, winter over here. Unbothered by cruising boats, many of these gentle giants can be seen from the ICW.

Explore Aransas Bay

Rockport straddles a peninsula between Copano Bay and Aransas Bay and is sheltered from the Gulf by San Jose Island. The area’s unique charm has spawned one of the best small art towns in America, and Rockport Center for the Arts hosts an annual Art Festival on Aransas Bay.

Rebuilding is nearly complete after the devastation of Hurricane Harvey in 2017. In
the historic town center close to the famously clean beach, Winery on the Bay turns hurricanes into spirits with its 2017 Hurricane Harvey Rosé. Next door, the Dog’gone Brewery offers a variety of canine-themed microbrews. For a taste of the East Coast in the South, stop by 495 Chesapeake Eats for wood-fired steak and seafood, plus house signature dishes like Maryland fried chicken, blue crab dip, and soups.

Cove Harbor Yacht Club & Boathouse Resort is a full-service marina with more than 180 slips, gas, and diesel. It’s a short walk to waterside Paradise Key Seafood Bar & Grill.

Aransas Pass is a small paradise where the fish are always biting. Across Aransas Bay on the far northern end of Mustang Island is the town of Port Aransas, one of the Gulf’s most popular tourist destinations. Fresh culinary treats and unique coastal treasures fill Port A’s restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries.

The piers, jetties, and sandbars along Mustang Island’s beaches create perfect breaking waves for amateur surfers. Horace Caldwell Pier is a popular surfing spot, but if you prefer riding a horse instead of a board, galloping along the shore is one the best ways to experience the Texas beaches.

Formal competitions like Texas SandFest and the annual Harvest Moon Regatta draw international competitors and spectators. The 150-nautical mile course from Galveston to Port Aransas is North America’s largest port-to-port event. Held in October during the Gulf’s best sailing weather, the sail takes 20 to 25 hours in a fair breeze.

Destination Corpus Christi

The coastline becomes southbound at Corpus Christi. Although a sizable city, Corpus Christi has retained the flavor of a smaller town. Dependable winds make it a great location to host a number of international sailing championships. Every Wednesday evening, locals compete in races starting at the Lawrence Street T-Head.

Corpus Christi Marina’s 560 wet slips and fuel dock are centrally located to multiple attractions. Must-see stops include the Texas State Aquarium, South Texas Music Walk of Fame, Texas Surf Museum, and the Mirador de la Flor monument which honors the tragically short life of Selena, the famous “Queen of Tejano Music.” Rockit’s Whiskey Bar & Saloon, Cassidy’s Irish Pub, and the Czech-Mex Bakery & Cafe are all within a few blocks.

Gulfside, Padre Island National Seashore—the world’s longest stretch of undeveloped barrier island—separates the Gulf from the Laguna Madre, one of a few hypersaline lagoons on earth. The park encompasses about 70 miles of coastline, dunes, prairies, and wind tidal flats teeming with life. It is a nesting ground for Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles and more than 380 bird species. The park is not accessible to pleasure craft, but park tours are arranged in Corpus Christi. 

To the End

It’s 134 nautical miles south to the end of ICW. About halfway, the Mansfield Cut provides deepwater access between the Gulf and the ICW at Port Mansfield, a small fishing hub with slips, fuel, and restaurants. Sweet Gregory P’s Smokehouse Grill serves breakfast before dawn, barbecue until it runs out, and homemade pies or cobbler to indulge a sweet tooth.

Although the ICW officially ends at the Port of Brownsville, the entrance is primarily for commercial traffic. The last stops for cruisers are Port Isabel and South Padre Island whose only similarity is geographic. Dock at Sea Ranch Marina 1 on Padre or sister facility Sea Ranch Marina 2 at Port Isabel.

Historic Port Isabel is a fisherman’s launch pad to the Laguna Madre and some of the best flats fishing on the coast. The only fishable population of snook in the United States outside of Florida resides in the Lower Laguna, as do mangrove snapper, gag grouper, and Spanish mackerel. Anglers frequent Brazos Santiago Pass and the Gulf for tarpon, kingfish, bonito, tuna, red snapper, wahoo, and a variety of billfish. 

South Padre is a resort community with numerous high-rise hotels, nightclubs, and souvenir shops, and in March, thousands of spring-breakers. Most of the restaurants, local shops, and attractions are found along Padre Boulevard. Clayton’s, Texas’ biggest beach bar, holds up to 5,000 people and serves drinks like Turbo daiquiris. One and done!

The Texas coastline isn’t laden with lavish waterside resorts with sugar-sand beaches and the foo-foo fashions found in other coastal states. But it does have warm, welcoming residents fiercely proud of their heritage, unhurried beach towns, fabulous fishing, unspoiled wildlife preserves, delicious seafood and, occasionally, a character or two as colorful as its sunsets. 

– by Ellen Honey

Cruising on Florida’s Gulf Coast

Cultural Cruising on Florida’s Gulf Coast

Stroll the waterfronts of Sarasota, Tampa, and St. Petersburg for some lively entertainment.

You’ve seen this on nautical charts when you’re cruising Florida’s Gulf Coast: The Florida peninsula bulges out on the central west coast. It’s like a silent signal that this is a good time to refuel, recharge, replenish, stretch legs. Well, then, how about some short walks to cultural attractions in Sarasota, Tampa, and St. Petersburg? Their waterfronts are easy to stroll to the liveliest sections of town, and you can tie up at the marinas and walk to restaurants, theaters, museums, and shops. 

Sarasota

Cruise into Sarasota Bay toward the downtown skyline and, voilà, there’s Marina Jack with slips and a mooring field (yeah, like, with services). Exit Marine Plaza and plant your feet on the hard. You’re in Bayfront Park. Look around. Do you see that tall statue of the sailor kissing the girl? That’s the Unconditional Surrender statue based on the iconic photo of V-J Day in 1945 in Times Square. It’s a big deal—literally.

Keep walking. Stroll Main Street and Palm Avenue and have a seat at any one of a number of highly rated restaurants. While you’re downtown, visit the Art Uptown Gallery. Some 24 local artists display and sell their work there.

Van Wezel

It’s a long hike but just a short car ride to the Van Wezel Performing Arts Hall. January’s schedule includes music and comedy stars like Renée Fleming, Jay Leno, The Righteous Brothers, Jersey Boys, and Harry Connick Jr. Plus, you can enjoy the Sarasota Orchestra and other events at the nearby Beatrice Friedman Symphony Center.

The Ringling on Sarasota Bay

Museums

Sarasota gets special applause for its outstanding museums. The Sarasota Art Museum has several special exhibitions in early 2022: Judith Linhares: The Artist as Curator, whose paintings reflect the influences in her life that shape her work; Cuban artist Felix Gonzalez-Torres, who created art with everyday materials like light bulbs, paper, and candy; and David Budd: Motion Within Stillness. The abstract artist used spontaneous, viscous strokes of paint to animate the canvas.

Save a full day for The Ringling. It has three museums all located on a 20-acre waterfront property that circus owner John Ringling bought in 1911. One is the State Art Museum of Florida featuring work by European masters Rubens, Van Dyck, Velázquez, and more. Another is Ca’ d’Zan, the 36,000-square-foot Mediterranean-revivalist home Ringling built to honor his wife Mable. The third is the Circus Museum which includes a miniature replica of “The Greatest Show on Earth.”

Catch a performance of the Sarasota Ballet, Florida’s only ballet company, at the Asolo Repertory Theatre, adjacent to the Ringling Museum of Art, or the Sarasota Opera at the historic Sarasota Opera House downtown, a block from Main Street. The Florida Studio Theatre has five stages that provide settings for acts such as Improv, Cabaret, and off-Broadway plays.

Skyway Bridge at Sunset

Tampa

Stop No. 2 on your cultural cruise is Tampa. Cruise north under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge into Tampa Bay. Tampa is on the eastern side of middle Tampa Bay. Take the Seddon Channel and head straight to the Tampa Convention Center. It is the most convenient access to Tampa Riverwalk, a 2.6-mile, paved hiking/biking path along the Hillsborough River that takes you to many of the city’s well-known attractions, including the Florida Aquarium, Tampa Bay History Center, Tampa Museum of Art, Glazer Children’s Museum, and the Straz Center for the Performing Arts.

Call well in advance to reserve a slip for a few hours or overnight. The Riverwalk docks at the History Center offer a short-term tie-up option. Or, for longer stays, the Tampa Marriott Water Street has a marina with 32 full-service slips.

All the slips are booked for the big Gasparilla Pirate Festival on Saturday, January 29th, but you can still become a pirate and help escort the Gasparilla Pirate Ship to the Convention Center. Pirate José Gaspar and Ye Mystic Krewe will meet the mayor and demand she surrender the keys to the city. No worries; it’s only for 24 hours.

Don’t forget to hop on a Tampa Streetcar and take it to Ybor City. It’s where the Cuban sandwich was born. Indulge in one at the original Columbia Restaurant in Ybor City. 

St. Petersburg

When you cruise into the open waters of Tampa Bay, you’ll see the St. Petersburg skyline on the western shore. As you get closer, you’ll notice the new pier. Since the city’s earliest days in the 19th century, it has had a pier in one version or another. The newest one is a 26-acre, come one, come all playground with shops, kayak rentals, a water playground for the little ones, and restaurants to suit all palates and pocketbooks. The pier has a few boat slips for short-term tie-ups, but availability might be limited as there’s no charge and reservations are not required.

The St. Pete Municipal Marina has recently expanded its spaces for itinerant vessels for the day or several days. Reserve space up to a month in advance. Are you hungry? From the marina, it’s a convenient walk to many different style restaurants at all price points.

Over the years, St. Petersburg has built a stellar reputation as one of the top art centers for any city its size. The Duke Energy Center for the Arts-Mahaffey Theater on Beach Drive is the home of the renowned Florida Orchestra, and it brings in many top-notch entertainers. The January and February calendar includes musical tributes to Tina Turner, Whitney Houston, Carole King, Elton John, and ABBA.

Next door to The Mahaffey is the Dalí Museum. Inside that geodesic glass bubble of a building are more than 2,400 pieces of art and five extra-large masterworks by Spanish surrealist Salvador Dalí, such as The Hallucinogenic Toreador and The Discovery of America by Christopher Columbus.

The Museum of Fine Arts on Beach Drive has masterpieces from Claude Monet, Georgia O’Keeffe, Willem de Kooning, and Robert Rauschenberg. It is also acclaimed for its extensive photography collections.

Other museums worth visiting in St. Pete include the James Museum of Western and Wildlife Art, the Florida Holocaust Museum, the Chihuly Collection at the Morean Arts Center, St. Petersburg Museum of History, Imagination Museum, and the new Museum of the American Arts & Crafts Movement. Some are walkable from the marina. You can also rent an e-scooter to scoot around town. And, downtown St. Pete is bike-friendly. There’s so much to do, so enjoy the Tampa Bay area. 

-by Bill AuCoin

Cruising the Louisiana and Mississippi Gulf Coast

Go with the Flow

Cruising the Louisiana and Mississippi Gulf Coast

Along the Louisiana-Mississippi coastline, there’s a palpable hum having nothing to do with barges, drilling rigs, or signal horns. The musical notes riding the breeze, the rustle of wildlife in the swamps, and the whispers of generations long past create a singular vibration in the area. Rich in a fascinating history from the time of the Native Americans through French and Spanish settlements, the Civil War, oil exploration, and multiple devastating hurricanes, the coast is defined by the enduring resilience of its inhabitants.

Sandbars, wetlands, commercial traffic, and oil platforms make navigating Gulf waters a pay-close-attention adventure. Heed your chartplotter and posted navigational aids, stay on your VHF, and most of all, ask the friendly locals lots of questions to simplify the journey.

Plan Your Route

Weather conditions are the biggest determining factor when choosing between offshore and the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GICW). Offshore, you may be 50 to 100 miles out with little help available quickly, and it is hazardous at night. When the wind is right, Gulf sailing is amazing for experienced captains; on the GICW, sailboats will be motoring most of the way. According to a local delivery captain, “The ditch is slow, boring, heavily trafficked, and safer” for all vessels.  Plan ahead for evening anchorage or marina docking—anchoring on the side of the ditch at dusk is not a good idea.

A convenient fuel/provisioning start for either course is Sabine Pass Port Authority in Port Arthur, Texas, a recently upgraded facility located at MM 38 near the mouth of the GICW and just six miles to the Gulf.

Sabine Pass to Houma

Eastbound the GICW winds through the U.S.’s largest river swamp, the Atchafalaya Basin, containing almost one million acres of the nation’s most significant bottomland hardwoods, swamps, bayous, and backwater lakes. There are small towns scattered along the route with names familiar to crime fiction fans as home territory of Edgar Award-winning author, James Lee Burke.

It’s 277 statute miles from Sabine Pass to Houma, Louisiana, with possible added hours in line to transit the Bayou Boeuf Lock in Morgan City. The area has heavy commercial traffic so be sure to check in with Vessel Traffic Control.

In Houma, the GICW intersects Mandalay National Wildlife Refuge, home to waterfowl, alligators, and assorted mammals. In the evening, friendly wildlife, fresh seafood, and local bands can be found in the Cajun music dance halls. Houma’s numerous bayous and bays provide anglers deep sea, coastal, brackish, and freshwater fishing. Cristiano Ristorante is a three-block walk from the Downtown Marina located at the junction of historic Bayou Terrebonne and the GICW (MM 58WHL).

Up to New Orleans

New Orleans is just 61 miles northeast of Houma, but dedicated anglers might chart a course southeast down to Venice, a town with mythical offshore fishing status and plenty of experienced charter captains. A few miles out are yellowfin, mahi mahi, grouper, red snapper, amberjack, and swordfish.

From the GICW, two routes lead to the Mississippi River and New Orleans. Go north through Algiers Lock to Chalmette or use the Harvey Canal lock and wind downriver around the French Quarter. Continue to the Industrial Canal to spend time up in Lake Pontchartrain. South Shore Harbor, just east of the canal along the lakeshore, has 453 slips for boats to 150 feet in length. Its sister property west of the canal, Orleans Marina, is within walking distance of restaurants, a ships store, and public transit lines. Fuel is available in the New Basin Canal at the entrance to the marina.

A New Orleans Sampler

Words that describe the cuisine of New Orleans also define the flavor of the city: French, Spanish, African, English, and Native American cultures coalesce into a rich gumbo of experiences able to satisfy every taste.

Explore music, art, cuisine, voodoo, Civil War sites, ghosts, and more on organized tours or roam the city at your own pace on a city bus stopping at St. Louis Cemetery, the World War II Museum, Mardi Gras World, or the French Market. Stay hydrated and conserve energy because the city runs full speed 24 hours a day.

Iconic NOLA dishes like charbroiled oysters, crawfish étouffée, po’ boys, gumbo, and muffulettas are served at more than 1,500 city eateries. Or “eat dessert first” at Angelo Brocato where Italian ice cream and pastries have been served in a nostalgic pink parlor setting since 1905. No visit would be complete without beignets at Cafe Du Monde and “Frozen Bourbon Milk Punch” at the Bourbon House.

If food is the pathway to the heart, music is the highway to the soul. Check out Royal Street in the French Quarter to hear everything from a single acoustic guitar to an impromptu street corner band with instruments ranging from brass and keyboards to washboards and plastic buckets.

Nightlife options range from elegant to decadent. The Maison restaurant has live music nightly on one of its three floors. For a more subdued atmosphere, savor excellent tapas and jazz at Three Muses. Quintessential jazz club The Spotted Cat has appeared in multiple movies and commercials.

 

Beyond the City Life

From the Industrial Canal’s turning basin head east on the GICW Rigolets-New Orleans Cut (or via the Rigolets from Lake Pontchartrain) as the jazz horns fade, the offshore rigs and commercial traffic thin out, and take time to relax into the 60NM cruise to Gulfport.

Gulfport to Biloxi

The Gulfport Municipal Marina/Bert Jones Yacht Harbor has 319 slips for boats to 140 feet in length. It’s an easy walk to Shaggy’s, a festive, casual spot for good local food. For classic, coastal, fine dining, reserve ahead at The Chimneys.

There’s a lively downtown amid ancient live oak trees and dignified old homes with plenty of snacking, sipping, and shopping options. Choose a creamy, fruity artisan popsicle like Nutella or Oreo cheesecake from a POP Brothers stand, or do a tasting at Chandeleur Island Brewing Company, a pooch-friendly taproom offering seasonal and year-round brews. Fishbone Alley, a funky little side lane featuring original local art and culture backs up to a cluster of pubs. Artists adorn the alley walls with colorful murals celebrating Gulfport’s thriving arts scene. To work off some of those earlier treats, wrestle with a one-arm bandit on Casino Row and stay for one of the many shows.

From Gulfport to Biloxi, there’s light tackle action aplenty along shallow coastal waters bustling with tasty bottom fish. Cast a line off a pier or snag a huge yellowfin tuna on an offshore charter.

Atlantic bottlenose dolphins might race your boat 11 miles south to Ship Island where sugary beaches are a part of the Gulf Islands National Seashore. Tranquil waters, native wildlife, and deep-rooted history make the short detour worthwhile.

Pre-hurricane(s), Biloxi was the party place on the coast. The casino industry has played a major role in the city’s return to glitz and glamour. Gaming houses range from backwater barges to deluxe resort-entertainment complexes, all inviting gamblers to “beat the house.”

The Casino Hopper Trolley goes beyond blackjack tables to stops at city attractions, restaurants, and beaches. The Maritime & Seafood Industry Museum’s extraordinary photographs chronicle the first Native American settlements through generations of immigrants, all part of the region’s melting-pot culture. Water-related exhibits include the opportunity to sail aboard a replica of an authentic Biloxi oyster schooner.

The Jefferson Davis Presidential Library and his restored home, Beauvoir Mansion, sit on 51 acres with stunning views of the Mississippi Sound. The ceramics of George E. Ohr, self-proclaimed “Mad Potter of Biloxi,” and other innovative ceramic artists are displayed at the Frank Gehry-designed Ohr-O’Keefe Museum of Art. The small but colorfully engaging Coastal Mississippi Mardi Gras Museum is housed in a historic antebellum building.

Beyond legendary is the cuisine and atmosphere of Mary Mahoney’s Old French House with its elegant courtyard shaded by a centuries-old live oak. Amble over to the Half Shell to fill up on plump juicy oysters, seafood pot pie, or crawfish corn bisque.

For dockage, Biloxi Small Craft Harbor or the newly renovated Point Cadet Marina (vessels to 100 feet in length) are centrally located.

Duck inside Mississippi’s four barrier islands for the most relaxing segment of the cruise to Gulf Shores. The largest, Horn Island, was a creative source and favorite subject of famed Gulf artist Walter Anderson and is worth an overnight on the hook to reflect on your journey. The abundance of nature in the wildlife preserves, the frenzy of New Orleans, the fever of the casinos, and the tranquility of the national seashore are all part of the mystique of the Gulf Coast.

By Ellen Honey, Southern Boating June 2021

Float Into Mardi Gras

Float Into Mardi Gras

Plan a stopover along the Mississippi River to join the festivities at New Orleans’ biggest celebration of the year.

It’s a little after eight in the morning. There’s a slight chill in the air, but the sun is shining on the assembled throng milling around in front of the Lost Love Lounge. They’re an otherworldly group who seem to have been beamed down from Mars. Two bare-chested men at 12 o’clock appear to be channeling centaurs? unicorns? sporting gold and silver foil lamé chaps, horns, and metallic face paint. A cute little family sidle by, mom and dad dressed like Thing One and Thing Two and pulling junior as…the Grinch? in a sequined wagon that also holds a cooler of beer. Just then a brass band with a Klezmer accent marches by, trombones swinging side to side in the breeze.

Welcome to just one of the ways that the locals celebrate Fat Tuesday, the culmination of Carnival season that kicks off on twelfth night, ushering in weeks of King Cakes, parades, fancy balls, marching bands, and lots and lots of beads, 12-and-a-half tons at last weigh-in.

Forget the drunken revelry on Bourbon Street, that’s for tourists. The real Mardi Gras is a family affair, a massive street party that rejoices in traditions new and old. It’s also a citywide event that’s still gloriously free of charge and sponsors.

’Tis the Season
Organized by krewes, the social clubs that work all year on themes, floats, and costumes, most parades roll from uptown down St. Charles Avenue to Canal Street, all primo viewing areas, with high school marching bands, 50-foot-long floats tricked out with LED lights and gobs of glitter, and dancing krewes with names like the Cherry Bombs and the Disco Amigos.

A season of nonstop action, Mardi Gras includes an endless array of parades, masked and unmasked balls, pageants, and King Cake parties. King Cakes are a coveted, usually sweet, cake topped with purple, green, and sugar. Pastry chefs around town get creative and add savory flavors and unusual fillings into the mix. Don’t miss a stop at Bywater Bakery, where eight flavors of King Cake, including three savory options, deliver the best of the season. Each cake has a tiny plastic baby placed inside. Getting the slice with the baby is a good omen and, traditionally, means you have to throw the next King Cake party.

There are some 80 parades in and around New Orleans, and it’s impossible to catch them all. But for Carnival lovers, the three original super krewes, Orpheus, Endymion, and Bacchus, are at the top of the viewing list—spectacular parades known for intricate floats, high-tech wizardry, awesome throws, and grand costumes and themes. The all-female Muses, with their shoe theme, and Nyx, who claim purses as their krewe symbol, also claim super krewe status, rolling between 25 and 42 elaborate floats. The biggest parades feature celebrity kings and queens with the likes of Kid Rock and Britney Spears holding court for a day.

Leading up to Fat Tuesday, visitors and locals adore the smaller, quirky, neighborhood parades like Chewbacchus, powered by sci-fi enthusiasts and rolling UFOs of wacky design; ‘tit Rex, a lineup of darling shoebox-sized mini-floats, and Barkus, a four-legged parade of costumed canine stars. The sassiest parade is definitely the racy and irreverent Krewe du Vieux, known for wild satire and adult themes lampooning local government and politicians, but in reality, anything goes.

Mardi Gras Day is always the day before Lent begins, which is determined by the Advent calendar and when Easter falls, so it’s different every year. On Mardi Gras Day, there are tons of options, from roving dance parties in Jackson Square to catching Zulu coconuts on Claiborne or seeing Rex, the King of Carnival, uptown. Step along with the brilliantly costumed march of Societé de Saint Anne, an array of nutty creatives that collect costumed marchers from Bywater into the French Quarter and stop at bars to celebrate along the way.

If you stay away from Bourbon Street and catch parades uptown in Mid-City, Metairie, and the West Bank, these celebrations are a family affair with multiple generations following traditions that have ruled Carnival since the French brought the fête to the Mississippi shores in the late 1600s.

Where to Stay

Mardi Gras is the highest of seasons, so it’s best to plan ahead. Prices spike, minimum-stay requirements, and “no cancellation” policies apply. That said, there are more than 22,000 rooms in the downtown area and more than 38,000 in the greater metro area, so there are options. The Eliza Jane, Jung Hotel & Residences, NOPSI, Holiday Inn Express, and HI New Orleans are just a few newish-hotels close to parade routes. Visit NewOrleans.com to source hotels of all stripes.

Marinas
There are a handful of full-service marinas available, close to the south shore of Lake Pontchartrain.

Schubert’s Marine: (504) 282-8136; schubertsmarine.com
Seabrook Harbor and Marine: (504) 283-6001; seabrookharbormarine.com
South Shore Harbor Marina: (504) 245-3152; marinasinneworleans.com

Getting Around
Traffic and navigating during Mardi Gras is a challenge because so many streets are closed. Bike, walk, take a cab, or rideshare, but expect premium prices and delays. Don’t let it get to you; it’s as much about the journey and who you meet and greet as the location. There is public transit, but check Regional Transit Authority for schedules. norta.com

Restrooms
Finding a bathroom along parade routes is a thing. There are several bars along the way. Some charge for wristbands and access, but it’s worth it. Some homeowners rent theirs, and the city brings in the ever-popular porta-potties. Go when you have the chance.

Safety
There’s plenty of police presence to make the walk from uptown to downtown safer than at other times of year. Still, pay attention to your surroundings and keep your stuff close.

Beyond the Parades
Order a Sazerac at Sazerac Bar. Cocktail wags largely agree that the Sazerac is one of the oldest examples of the American cocktail. Worship at the altar of Sazerac at the impeccable Sazerac Bar in the gorgeous Roosevelt Hotel where the 19th century original recipe is favored. therooseveltneworleans.com

Stay up late with Rebirth at the Maple Leaf. Rebirth Brass was founded in 1983 upon the notion that New Orleans brass doesn’t come in just one flavor. The Grammy Award-winning band, known for its legendary Tuesday late night gig at the Maple Leaf, uptown on Oak Street, upholds the tradition of brass and plays it forward by bringing funk and hip-hop into the mix. mapleleafbar.com

Roll on down the river. A ride on the Steamboat Natchez isn’t just for tourists. A throwback to the days when steamboats cruised the mighty Mississippi for commerce and pleasure, the Natchez reveals just how busy this working river remains. It’s a real treat to travel the river the old school way, sipping a fine bloody Mary and dancing to the Dukes of Dixieland, a brass forward jazz band that never disappoints. steamboatnatchez.com

Visit a Mardi Gras Museum. While you’re at Arnaud’s drinking a French 75 at the bar, extend the festive mood with a visit to the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum upstairs, a lavish costume display that will have you longing for carnival season. arnaudsrestaurant.com

Eat This
Off the beaten tourist track, the family-run Katie’s in Mid-City is a friendly neighborhood restaurant that serves a winning “cochon de lait” sandwich, a two-hander stuffed with tender, slow-roasted pork and topped with horseradish Creole coleslaw. katiesinmidcity.com

Although Central Grocery is the original spot for the Italian muffuletta sandwich, head to Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s Cochon Butcher, a swine palace of piggy goodness that dishes a killer version stuffed with house cured meats. cochonbutcher.com

Save room for dessert at the handsomely redone Brennan’s on Royal Street. After a cocktail-fueled Breakfast at Brennan’s, a three-hour process powered by the likes of turtle soup and eggs Sardou, it’s time for the floor show and tableside bananas foster, a dramatically flambéed dessert that was invented right here. brennansneworleans.com

It’s quite a show, and the Mardi Gras Parade Tracker app (mardigrasparadetracker.com) can help you navigate your way. Another resource is Arthur Hardy’s Mardi Gras Guide (mardigrasguide.com), which is also sold at most French Quarter stores. Enjoy, and laissez les bons temps rouler!

What’s on Your Holiday Calendar?

What’s on Your Holiday Calendar?

’Tis the season. Watch a lighted boat parade or light up your vessel and win a prize. Ask friends to come aboard to see New Year’s Eve fireworks from the water. If you’re in Key West that day, you can hoot ‘n’ holler as pirates lower their wench down the mast of the America 2.0 schooner, built in 2011.

All that said, here are some Gulf Coast events near marinas that are also worth considering:

• December 18-24: Pensacola’s Winterfest in Florida includes uplifting historic street tours on The Polar Express trolley. Along the way, you’ll greet characters from the movies The Polar Express and A Christmas Story. Meet Elfie; take a selfie. The Grinch steps on board and so does, yes, Elvis. Merry Christmas, Baby. pensacolawinterfest.org

• December 22nd: As darkness falls on New Orleans’ French Quarter, you can become part of a seasonal sing-along at Caroling in Jackson Square. This event is for all ages. Candles and song lyrics are passed around at 6:30 PM. Carolers meet carolers. Candles light candles. Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis overlooks hundreds of glowing singers and starting at 7 PM, their inspired voices sail across the Vieux Carré. experienceneworleans.com

• Through December 31st: Gulfport Harbor Lights Winter Festival on Mississippi’s Gulf Coast continues daily from 5:30 PM to 9:30 PM at Jones Park next to Bert Jones Yacht Harbor. Take the walking tour or ride the free, heated trolley. The lighthouse has never looked this bright, and the lights change colors, too. gulfportharborlights.com

• December 31st: First Night St. Petersburg is a family-friendly New Year’s Eve celebration spotlighting the art of performers and musicians along St. Pete’s waterfront and downtown business center on Florida’s west coast. firstnightstpete.com

By Bill AuCoin

The Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort and Golf Club

Woven Through Time

Cruise over to The Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort and Golf Club for some relaxing downtime.

St. Petersburg’s historic Old Northeast district is characterized by waterfront green space, brick streets, granite curbs, hexagon block sidewalks, mature trees, and lots of welcoming front porches. The neighborhood has an eclectic mix of architecture, culture, and style. A rejuvenation in the 1990s brought the district back to life after the suburban sprawl, including the long-shuttered Vinoy Hotel in 1992.

The hotel’s redesign offers a mix of contemporary and historic 1920s interiors.

The now beautifully restored Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort & Golf Club is nestled along the city’s waterfront with parks, recreation areas, an arboretum, the North Shore Aquatic Complex, the Museum of Fine Arts, and the St. Petersburg Museum of History. Its central location in the North Yacht Basin makes it a perfect place to spend a few days off the boat or as a base to enjoy the Tampa Bay area.

The Beginning

The story goes that in 1923, professional golfer Walter Hagen set a wager at the Beach Drive home of wealthy Pennsylvanian oil magnate Aymer Vinoy Laughner (A.V.) that if he were able to drive several balls off the face of A.V.’s pocket watch without breaking it, the millionaire would have to build a resort where they landed. Needless to say, A.V.’s watch kept working so he kept his promise. The Vinoy opened on New Year’s Eve 1925.

“The Vinoy became one of the country’s most prestigious destinations, attracting presidents (Calvin Coolidge and Herbert Hoover), sporting greats like Babe Ruth, and Hollywood stars like Jimmy Stewart and Marilyn Monroe to its airy veranda,” says Vibeke Sansone, director of sales and marketing. “Today, you can still enjoy the gentle afternoon breeze from the comfort of a wooden rocker.”

The Marina

It’s not in the name, but the spectacular Vinoy Marina has its own bragging rights. It’s secure, protected, deep-water docks accommodate vessels up to 130 feet with long- and short-term leases.

“We have seventy-four slips which are all fixed docks here at the Vinoy,” says Lance Moyer, director of membership. “Fifty of those slips are used by our members as permanent slips under annual slip license agreements, and the remaining twenty-four are our transient slips for those wanting to come and visit the Vinoy for a few nights to a few months at a time.”

Those who cruise into the Vinoy Marina share the same benefits as guests who stay at the resort. “They have access to all of the resort amenities that include two outdoor swimming pools, state-of-the-art fitness center with locker rooms, including showers, steam, sauna and indoor whirlpools, ten Har-Tru tennis courts, eighteen-hole golf course, and multiple restaurants and bars,” says Moyer. “We even have room service delivery directly to the vessels at the marina.”

For those leasing a dock, notable marina amenities also include:
• Secure key access
• Dry-cleaning services
• Self-service laundry
• Walking distance to city activities
• Heated pools and hot tubs
• Four restaurants and bars
• Full-service day spa
• Fitness facilities
• Ice service
• 24-hour business center
• Bicycle rentals
• 3 percent discount on fuel at the city marina
• 10 percent discount at the Day Spa
• 10 percent discount on Food & Beverage

The usual dockside services are complimentary as well, such as basic cable, Wi-Fi, water, electric hookups (30/50/100 amp), pump-out facility, and trash collection. Current monthly rates for boats 60 feet and less is $23 per foot. vinoymarina.com

The Fitness

Get off the boat and move around. If you’re not touring the city, golfers will love the challenge of the Vinoy Golf Club. Its humble beginning started in 1920, as the nine-hole Coffee Pot Golf Course on Snell Island. It was sold as an 18-hole course in 1932 to D.L. Clark (of candy bar fame) for $156,000. Today, this Ron Garl-designed, 18-hole, par 71 championship course will test the best golfers.

Golfers will enjoy The Vinoy Golf Club’s championship course.

The Renaissance Vinoy Health Club keeps your cardiovascular systems running and your muscles strengthened in its state-of-the-art facility with a variety of equipment, weights, and classes, such as Pilates and water aerobics. After a tough workout, loosen up your sore muscles in the invigorating Jacuzzi, sauna, or steam room.

The Spa

Take pampering to an entirely new level at the Vinoy Salon & Day Spa. Opt for a soothing poolside massage in one of the cabanas, or relax with a glass of champagne while a professional stylist treats your hair with a complimentary deep-conditioning mask to restore hydration from damaging elements. Find your calm in a Sea Holistic Massage or a Muscle-Warming Seaweed Wrap. There are plenty of luxurious services and signature treatments available to appease everyone.

The Dining

Nourishment is key to keeping up with all the activities that surround your stay at The Vinoy. Although you can order room service while docked at the marina and avoid messing up the galley, take time away from the boat and explore The Vinoy’s inspired dining options.

Marchand’s Bar & Grill sources its provisions from local purveyors to offer farm-to-table, seasonal American fare fused with Florida and Caribbean flavors. The fine-dining restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. If it’s Sunday, don’t miss the outstanding brunch that includes waffles, carved meats, and desserts. Marchand’s also has a fabulous sushi bar.

Paul’s Landing is named after the U.S. Navy surveyor William Paul, who constructed a small settlement with barracks, a short pier, and a smokehouse along the southeastern shore of the Pinellas Peninsula which is now the St. Petersburg downtown waterfront. After his stint in the Navy, he returned to grow oranges and smoke and cure meat. It’s the citrus, smoke, and seafood that is the essence of the restaurant. Delicious local seafood and international dishes along with incredible views of the marina make Paul’s Landing a favorite spot.

The Veranda Café is a perfect choice if you’re on the go. Stop by for fresh-brewed coffee, pastries, sandwiches and snacks, beer and wine, and even some souvenirs.

As the day settles down, relax at the Lobby Bar and Veranda Patio. Sip a fancy cocktail as you sit back in a rocker around the fire pit, nibble on sushi and small plates, and listen to live entertainment.

Members of the Vinoy Club can enjoy exclusive service for lunch and dinner (breakfast on weekends) surrounded by phenomenal golf course views at the Vinoy Club Grill.

Centrally located, The Vinoy is within walking distance of many fine restaurants along the waterfront.

The Comfort

Treat yourself to a night in one of The Vinoy’s renovated hotel suites designed from historic, 1920s grandeur to contemporary. Rooms feature plenty of “cabin space,” alluring Aveda bath products, and comfortable pillowtop mattresses to rest your weary head. Suites range from a standard guest room to the presidential tower with magnificent water or garden balcony views.

The Vinoy Renaissance St. Petersburg Resort & Golf Club offers an experience unlike any other. There’s something for everyone, from golf and tennis to Kid’s Camp to a family pool. With museums, Tropicana Field (home of Tampa Bay Rays baseball), and easy access to fishing the Gulf, it’s a destination fit for the boating lifestyle.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating November 2019

Henderson Beach Resort

Henderson Beach Resort

At Henderson Beach Resort, located on Florida’s Emerald Coast, lie legendary white-sand beaches next to emerald-green water,and a bounty of seafood waits to be caught and prepared by a world-class Michelin chef.

There was a time when going on a fishing trip translated to camping in smelly canvas tents or roughing it in low-budget motels or old cabins. Although some still favor the nostalgia of reliving those experiences, the growing trend is to blend fishing getaways with a somewhat more comfortable or even a luxury experience— chef-prepared gourmet menus, spa treatments, high thread count linens in climate-controlled guest rooms complete with in-room Nespresso machines, fluffy robes, and room service—such as you’ll find at The Henderson Beach Resort in Destin, Florida.

Something Fishy

The Gulf of Mexico is well-known for its bounty of seafood. Commercial fishing operations are found in almost every port along the Florida Panhandle. Additionally, anglers enjoy recreational and competitive fishing both offshore and in the coastal bays and waterways.

On Florida’s Emerald Coast—the state’s northwest area named for its emerald green-colored water and favored for its fine white, sugary sand beaches—Destin began as a small fishing village with easy access to the sea’s bounty. In the mid-1950s, following a particularly fortuitous fishing excursion during the annual Destin Fishing Rodeo (started in 1948), a former Florida governor labeled it “The World’s Luckiest Fishing Village” after he caught a 29-pound king mackerel.

Legendary catches still occur today both offshore and near shore, which is perhaps why Destin Harbor is home to allegedly the largest charter fishing fleet in Florida. Just nine miles offshore in federal waters, anglers can troll in depths of up to 300 feet for marlin, dolphinfish, sailfish, tuna, and wahoo as well as grouper, triggerfish, amberjack, red snapper, and bonito.

But you don’t have to go far in a large sportfishing yacht to feel the tug. A wide variety of fish species are closer to shore in 50 to 100 feet of water where light tackle is used for king mackerel, triggerfish and other species, and Choctawhatchee Bay has Spanish mackerel, cobia, speckled trout, flounder, black snapper, and pompano in less than 30 feet of water. Even non-anglers can enjoy the fishing excitement when the charter boats return to the dock and flaunt their day’s catch. Parking is plentiful, and you can walk the dock for free.

See food is Seafood

Fresh Gulf-to-table menus are not only accessible and anticipated, but they’re also celebrated. At The Henderson Beach Resort, gastronomic revelry is relished in a grand yet relaxed style all its own thanks to Executive Chef Gary Palm, whose culinary experience includes international luxury hotel brands in France, Monte Carlo, India, Korea, Indonesia, China, and a chef for foreign and U.S. presidents and other esteemed dignitaries.

Daily market fish is always on his menu at Primrose—The Henderson’s signature restaurant named for a 1920s-era seine fishing boat that’s restored and on display in the Destin History and Fishing Museum—but Chef Palm adds ever-changing flavors and local ingredients like Lemon Grass and White Wine Sauce or Blackened Grouper
with lobster essence, red radish and spring vegetables.

With such exquisite food, you may loosen your belt. Minimize bloat at the fitness center or engage in some of the many wellness offerings at The Henderson, including yoga, paddleboarding, bike adventures, kayaking, or a high-octane calorie-burner that was featured on Shark Tank called Surfset—imagine exercising on a wobbly surfboard that’s on top of bouncy rubber balls and the goal is to keep your balance without falling off. Yep, you got it.

Spa Time

If all the fishing and eating and exercise has whetted your appetite for some serious spa time, you’re in the right place. Just walk into the Salamander Spa and you’ll feel some of
your tension ease. Backlit transparent tiles in hues of the emerald sea line the walls of the hallway and create a surreal, calming effect. Fluffy robes envelop your aching muscles and sand-colored sandals cushion your feet while you relax in the Lavender Room with a flute of champagne or chilled juice.

There’s an extensive menu of treatment options, customized to address every physical concern: Himalayan Salt Suite for respiratory or skin conditions, Floatation Therapy for deep relaxation and Cryo-Therapy, a three-minute treatment to reduce inflammation and boost the immune system. Before, after or in-between treatments, treat yourself to the steam room, experiential shower or whirlpool tub with chilled cucumber slices placed on your eyelids.

Family Rules

Lest you assume The Henderson is primarily for adults, nothing could be further from the truth. Children and teens have their own customized menus at the restaurants and the
spa. The lazy river pool is a hit for all ages, and the white-sand beach invites hours of fun. Weekly activities include lip sync battles, swimming with a mermaid, family movie night,
and a fireside s’mores station for kids and grown-ups alike.

If the kids are missing Rover back home, The Henderson’s Canine Ambassadors, Dune and Ranger, show up twice daily in the Living Room; just like in your home, it’s the place
where people gather. For the artists in your group, The Henderson hosts local artists’ painting classes for individuals and families and Shardworx workshops for making art with glass.

When you stroll through The Henderson, the influence of the local art community is obvious but natural. Thirteen local artists created custom pieces to reflect the beauty of the surroundings and bring both calm and inspiration to all who enter. Displayed in the Historical Hallway and guest room corridors, historical photographs taken by the late Arturo Mennillo depict scenes in and around Destin of people sportfishing and enjoying the beach and emerald water.

Here, old images blend with new art, conversations mingle with children’s laughter, and fresh seafood fuses with imaginative and local flavors. Even if you live hundreds of miles away, this will somehow feel familiar, a place where you can just be and breathe in the salt air.

BRINGING YOUR BOAT?

Destin marinas are small but have transient docking, some with full service and others without. Call ahead for available space.

Destin Marina
Up to 30 feet, no services.
(850) 837-2470

HarborWalk Marina
Fuel, water, electric, pump-out, waterfront shopping and dining at HarborWalk Village, fishing charters, convenience store, and gift shop.
(850) 650-2400; harborwalkmarina.net

Legendary Marina
ValvTect fuel, pump-out,
service and parts, sales.
(850) 337-8200; legendarymarina.com

The Ships Chandler
Boats to 110 feet (based on space available), power and water only, boat rentals, sales, service, chandlery, no pump-out, no facilities.
(850) 837-2262; theshipschandler.com

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating June 2019

South Seas Island Resort

South Seas Island Resort

An extended weekend on Captiva Island’s South Seas Island Resort creates moments and memories that linger.

When it comes to destination resorts, the type of accommodations, facilities and activities they offer and the guests they cater to run the gamut. You can find any kind of resort experience you’re looking for no matter whom you’re traveling with and how long you plan to stay. Some properties are geared specifically to adults on a partying weekend and provide all-inclusive bar and restaurant service. Others focus on romantic getaways for couples or offer large spaces and meeting rooms for conferences or tailor their furnishings and events to families with children of all ages.

Cruise into Luxury

There are few hybrid resorts that are able to offer a multitude of experiences that appeal to most but are presented as a guest experience that’s specific to individuals’ own tastes and preferences. Though it’s rare, I found this to be especially true when I spent several days with Julia, my “daughter-in-love” from Wisconsin, at South Seas Island Resort on Captiva Island, Florida.

Offshore cruisers on Florida’s Gulf Coast have easy access to the Yacht Harbour & Marina at South Seas Island Resort through Redfish Pass. Just inside the pass, turn south along the seawall and keeping green markers to port, turn to starboard into the well-marked channel just after green marker #9—you can’t miss it. Those with trailered boats 30 feet and smaller will drive to Bayside Marina in the South Village to use the ramp; overnight slips are available for boats under 25 feet.

Resort guests who prefer to leave their boats at home can still get out on the water with a fishing charter, sunset cruise or do what we did: take a sailing lesson through Steve and Doris Colgate’s Offshore Sailing School, which enables new sailors to earn US Sailing certification that qualifies them to skipper a boat up to 50 feet. Even though Julia and I are nowhere near ready to take a sailboat out by ourselves, the lesson was exciting and fun, and our instructor was very patient with our lack of experience and put us at ease—I highly recommend it.
offshoresailing.com

Shellebrate the Good Times

South Seas Island Resort comprises 330 acres, but not all of it is built up with concrete buildings and tarmac roads. Much of it has been preserved in its natural setting, so for
nature buffs, wildlife and especially birds are prevalent on the property. Being from Wisconsin, Julia is familiar with wildlife there but particularly enjoyed seeing the dolphins
enter the marina as she watched from the patio of our two bedroom villa overlooking the marina entrance and Pine Island Sound. By the last day of our stay, she knew exactly
where to get a close-up view and take videos to share with her husband, daughters, and students. She’s a preschool teacher, so every experience is a learning opportunity, a
mindset we have in common.

South Seas Island Resort accommodations come in all shapes and sizes, so whether you’re traveling with a family, or on your honeymoon or on a girls’ trip, there’s an option
that suits. Love the beach? Stay in a beach villa or cottage, and make sure you get in on the weekly SHELLebration at Sunset Beach with live music from 4 PM to 7 PM. Traditional
hotel rooms, suites, villas, and even an entire house with a Gulf view can be found here.

If all you’re interested in is some R&R with quality pool time, you’ll be quite satisfied with
one of the private poolside cabanas. Julia and I recommend Cabana #1 that overlooks Pine Island Sound for some premium relaxation time with a view. When excessive amounts of R&R work up your appetite, there’s no shortage of dining options whether
you’re beachside, poolside, dockside, or cruising the island on your golf cart from Sunny Island Adventures.

Fill ‘er Up

Scoops & Slices is a cute diner with booths and tables that resembles an ice cream shop from the 1950s. One entire wall contains self-serve candy bins, so let this serve as a warning of major amounts of sugar coming your way. But this diner isn’t only for the kids in your crew. There’s also beer and wine on tap for the grown-ups, plus there are family-sized specials like spaghetti with meatballs (like mom used to make), garlic bread and salad that they’ll pack up for you to enjoy in your room or condo.

Even if you cook the majority of your meals in your own condo, you will not want to miss dining out at Harbourside Bar & Grill. The full breakfast menu with Gulf-caught shrimp and grits is a terrific way to start your morning overlooking the marina. Evening specials change frequently, but locally caught fresh seafood is always a favorite. As an added bonus, if you were especially lucky on a fishing charter, they will even clean and cook your catch for you. Make sure you save room for some delicious dessert. The pumpkin crème Brulee is sublime.

Whether you are on your honeymoon, traveling with friends, with a family, or just enjoying a long weekend getting to know your son’s wife a little bit better, South Seas
Island Resort not only accommodates but also customizes an experience that will foster memories that will last you a lifetime.

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating March 2019

St. Pete City Updates

St. Pete City Updates include news on the new pier

The new St. Petersburg Pier finishes later this year. The signature view will be a rippling, waving net sculpture inviting all to come by land or by sea.

Called Bending Arc, the wind-blown artwork will be 80 feet high and 425 feet long. Artist Janet Echelman released color sketches of Bending Arc and says it will transmit a message of inclusion “embracing everyone to come to this place.”

Echelman’s works are installed in Australia, Holland, the United Arab Emirates, and other international locations. As a Tampa native, she says a major work in Tampa Bay is like a dream come true.

The St. Petersburg Pier will reach 1,350 feet out over Tampa Bay, and the city forecasts
1.7 million visitors to the new pier each year. To accommodate more boaters, the city
will be installing additional transient vessel space near the pier and as well as full-service
megayacht docks in the Port of St. Petersburg. newstpetepier.com

The new pier district will be a big deal, but it’s only one piece of the Sunshine City’s master plan that includes redesigned waterfront parks. City marinas will add 25 new transient vessel slips, build full-service megayacht docks and install state-of-the-art breakwaters parallel to the pier, marinas, parks, and Port of St. Petersburg.

By Bill AuCoin, Southern Boating May 2019

More Gulf Coast Report:

New Hope Found

Alabama Reefs Welcome Divers

Alabama Reefs Welcome Divers

Alabama may have only 53 miles of Gulf shoreline, but offshore, it has thousands of artificial reefs that have earned it a reputation as the red snapper capital of the Gulf of Mexico.

Average size? 10 pounds. These artificial reefs are also helping Alabama strengthen its
reputation as a saltwater scuba diving destination. Divers often prefer sites that are not so far and not so deep. Alabama has those too. One is a 271-foot coastal freighter scuttled in about 100 feet of water 20 miles south of Orange Beach.

Nicknamed Lulu (aka freighter Youkamu), it rests upright so scuba divers can start exploring just 50 feet below the surface. Another is Poseidon’s Playground that is three miles offshore in just 38 feet of water. It features statues of Greek gods Poseidon, Apollo, and Venus. It is even promoted as a wedding site, although reciting vows and kissing your new spouse while wearing goggles could be a bit awkward.

Reef Foundation President Vince Lucido said the new diving reef was the brainchild of local scuba instructor Lila Harris, who wanted to establish something closer to shore that’s accessible for younger divers and other beginners. The reef’s depth is about 38 feet, and 40 is the limit for novice divers.

The foundation aims to involve local artists, schools, organizations, and others. A reef could celebrate someone’s life.

The Alabama Gulf Coast Reef and Restoration Foundation played a major role in securing both sites and others. Another popular spot, especially for snorkeling, is Whiskey Wreck, an old steel-hulled vessel just 150 feet from Bahama Bob’s Beach Side Café in Gulf Shores.

There are more artificial reefs in deeper water, and their hard surface ecosystems support
abundant marine life, including Alabama’s big red snapper. By the way, Alabama’s 2019 red snapper season starts June 1st.

For more information and coordinates of most inshore and offshore reefs, go to outdooralabama.com/sites

By Bill Aucoin, Southern Boating May 2019

Spring on the Texas Gulf

Spring on the Texas Gulf

Waterfront towns around Corpus Christi Bay welcome spring on the Texas Gulf with live music, good food, boat shows, sand sculptures, and lots of fun.

Mariners at Corpus Christi Municipal Marina hear the music. As the sun fades, the adjacent Marina Arts District comes alive with street musicians, artists, vendors, and food trucks on the first Friday of April. Be there on the first Friday in May, too.

The little beach town of Port Aransas on Mustang Island draws families from all around to its annual Wooden Boat Festival at Roberts Point Park April 12-13 for wooden boats in and out of the water rigged with power, sail or oars. You can even bring your own at no charge. Admission is free for this hands-on, family-fun event that includes a class on how to build and treasure your own wooden boat. Kids get to row boats in the harbor and can also build a model boat.

portaransaswoodenboatfestival.org

Texas Sand Fest

Port Aransas also hosts the Texas Sand Fest April 26-28 said to be the largest Native-Sand Sculpture Competition in the U.S., and it brings in the best sand sculptors from around the world. Thousands drive or cruise over from the mainland to watch pros and
amateurs shape their sandy creations. You can even try it yourself.

texassandfest.org

Buc Days

Back on the mainland, the town of Aransas Pass will host the popular Rock the Dock
Boat Show at the Redfish Bay Boat House and Aransas Pass Civic Center May 2-5.

The mayor walks the plank during Buc Days.

The 10-day Buc Days Carnival kicks off on May 2nd at Water’s Edge Park with
carnival rides, tasty food, parades, pirate shows, movie nights, and bands performing
on Buc Stage. But before that, the mayor of Corpus Christi officially opens the
carnival when pirates make him walk the plank and splash into Corpus Christi Bay.
Spring has sprung.

bucdays.com

By Bill Aucoin, Southern Boating April 2019

Florida’s Big Bend

Florida’s Big Bend

The road less traveled: Florida’s Big Bend

Florida’s 300-mile Big Bend curve on the Gulf Coast remains the road less traveled for ICW navigators. Coming from the Panhandle, most point their bows straight to Tarpon Springs, the quicker way to warmer temperatures and sandy beaches.

Typically, Big Bend shorelines are not sandy. Geologists say ancient rivers just didn’t have enough “energy” to bring fine sand to shorelines. They’re quite wild, actually. Depending on your priorities, this could be a good thing. Maybe, as poet Robert Frost wrote, this makes all the difference. Welcome to Old Florida.

Steinhatchee is just a short distance up the river of the same name. Huge turtles bask on sunlit logs. Spanish moss flows down from sloping live oak branches. Locals tend gardens, relax on front porches and go fishing. Locally caught fish, scallops, blue crabs, and oysters are on the menu. Villagers and visitors raise a little Cain at the annual Fiddler Crab Festival, this year February 15-17. Good Times Marina, River Haven Marina and Sea Hag Marina are ready for transient cruisers.

Cedar Key is a quaint island town in the cluster of Cedar Keys, south of Steinhatchee a bit. Tie up, fuel up, chat up locals, browse funky stores, buy an Old Florida painting, bike trails, go birding, kayak the backcountry, sip craft beer and enjoy fresh seafood. Above all, be amazed at the bright stars and galaxies at night. Cedar Key (population 700) hosts 20,000 visitors for the annual Old Florida Celebration of the Arts, this year March 30-31. Cedar Key Marina II  monitors Channel 11 and welcomes cruisers.

Moving south, you’ll want to explore the Crystal River, the Homosassa River and the  Chassahowitzka River, spring-fed rivers the manatees love. You’ll feel warmer temperatures and notice lots of people on sandy beaches and the welcoming marinas in Tarpon Springs, Dunedin, Clearwater, Madeira Beach, and so on as you continue down the coast where you’re now back on the more traveled route.

By Bill Aucoin, Southern Boating February 2019

More Gulf Coast Updates:

Mardi Gras on the Gulf 

Mardi Gras

Mardi Gras on the Gulf

Mardi Gras’s Fat Tuesday may not begin until March 5th, but festivities start in February.

Marching bands and floats brighten up many Gulf coastal towns. Masked krewe members carry armloads of plastic beads. Wave your arms and scream, “Hey Mister!” Ground zero for Mardi Gras is New Orleans’ French Quarter. If you’ve never been, go. But even before the big day, you can holler for trinkets at parades in the Old Quarter and in the Uptown section.

Galveston Island has been doing Mardi Gras for 108 years, and it has grown to a
14-day calendar of activities that bring about 350,000 to parades and festivals with live
bands and delicious food.

Just about every Mississippi Gulf Coast town from Bay St. Louis to Pascagoula has eat-drink-and-be-merry festivals and parades. Some have unique parade themes. Biloxi, for
example, will crown the “King and Queen of the Krewe of Barkloxi.” Dog owners and
their dogs wear lookalike costumes.

Mobile, Alabama, deservedly calls itself the birthplace of Mardi Gras celebrations
in North America. Mobile Carnival Museum displays old floats, crowns, gowns, and
photographs dating back to 1886. The history-rich city at the top of Mobile Bay hosts
almost 50 parades in February and in the first five days of March.

The four-day Mardi Gras weekend at Gulf Shores and Orange Beach includes a 12-mile
boat parade via the ICW from The Wharf Marina in Orange Beach to Homeport Marina.
Lucy Buffett’s restaurant, Lulu’s, next to Homeport, welcomes all to “keep the party
going” with live music. Costumes and masks might get you a spot closer to the band, so
laissez le bon temps rouler!

By Bill Aucoin, Southern Boating February 2019

More Gulf Coast Updates:

Florida’s Big Bend

Food Festivals in the Gulf

Food Festivals in the Gulf

For many boaters, the only thing better than a food festival in the gulf is a food and music festival near a marina. Check off all three categories at mid-January events in Galveston, Texas, and Sarasota, FL.

Galveston

Galveston hosts Yaga’s Chili Quest & Beer Fest January 18-19 at Saengerfest Park in the historic Strand District. It features live music, of course, as well as chili and craft beer tasting, a margarita contest, and a 5K “Fun Run & Walk.” Galveston Yacht Basin is conveniently located within a short walk from the venue.

yagaschiliquest.com

Sarasota

Downtown Sarasota’s Seafood & Music Festival January 18-20 is a couple of blocks from Marina Jack. Gulf-fresh seafood options include grouper, oysters, stone crabs, shrimp, and softshell crabs. Music venues include jazz, Caribbean, soul, rock, and R&B.

If you want to take a break, you have permission to slip away for a day or so and tour The Ringling, the state art museum of Florida. It has three centers of attention. One is John and Mable Ringling’s 50-room Mediterranean-revivalist palace on Sarasota Bay. Another is a circus museum, a historical testimonial to “The Greatest Show on Earth.”  The third is an amazing 21-gallery art museum with sculptures and artwork by Rubens, van Dyke, Velazquez, and other European Old Masters.

By Bill Aucoin, Southern Boating January 2019

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