Category: Maintenance

How to Wire a T-Top

How to Wire a T-Top

Here’s how to wire a T-Top and free up console space.

While there never seems to be enough space on boats, the dilemma is particularly true for owners of small to midsized center consoles. With the explosion of must-have electronic doodads on the market today, owners seem to find themselves constantly struggling with limited installation options for even the basics: VHF radios, GPS units, multifunction displays, etc.

Center consoles equipped with a T-top provide additional mounting options and owners typically take advantage of this new real estate by installing an overhead electronics box. The hardest part for most DIYers tackling this project will be routing the cables and wires to the new box. Some take the easy way out by simply fastening wire bundles and cables to the outside of the tubing, but routing them internally provides both protection and a neater, more professional-looking installation.

The Basics of wiring a T-top

Routing wires through the maze of aluminum or stainless steel tubing may look like the water-born equivalent of a Rubik’s Cube, but with a little planning, it’s fairly straightforward if you simply step back and visualize the installation prior to starting. Once you’ve planned the route and (as necessary) drilled your entry and exit holes, the next step is installing the wires. While there are a number of options available for pulling wires when you wire a T-Top, the most common one is using an electrician’s “fish tape” or snake.

Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and sharp bends. Snakes made of tempered wire are commonly used and can be purchased at most hardware stores; however, newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials also are available.

Like this DIY project? Here’s how to install rod holders on your center console. 

Regardless of which style you choose, the snake’s ability to make the turns and bends easily reduces or eliminates the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation. The first step is feeding the snake through with no wiring attached. Once this is completed, attach the cable or wire bundle to the bitter end of the snake as streamlined as possible with tightly wrapped electrical tape so the wires can make it through the piping without too much difficulty.

When you wire a T-Top, carefully pull the bundle through and gently manipulate it around bends. In addition to wire snakes, other options I’ve used with varying degrees of success range from weighted strings to using a shop vac. The former involves simply feeding a string weighted with a sinker or small washer into the top hole of the tubing. Let gravity carry it down to the exit hole. For the shop vac trick, tie a piece of tissue, cotton ball or a foam earplug to the string. Then, feed it into the top hole while holding the shop vac intake hose at the bottom hole (you may have to use duct tape to get a good seal). When you have the string through, use it to thread a pull wire, such as heavy fishing line or weed-wacker filament, to pull the wires through.

Drilling Tips

At some point during your installation, you may have to drill some holes, either at an electronics box or at individual mounts. For wire runs with multiple turns, it may also be necessary to drill a small pilot hole at the second turn (depending on how sharp it is) to guide the snake along the correct path. Aluminum is softer and easier to drill than stainless steel; however, you’ll want to use a metal center punch to prevent the drill bit from walking as you start drilling.

Use a good quality, sharp drill bit for the best results. If larger diameter holes are required, a hole saw may be a better option. In either case, slower drill speeds will provide more control. Drill holes in areas of low mechanical stress where possible. Drill in horizontal tubes, and remove sharp edges using a deburring tool or rat tail file to prevent damage to wire insulation while pulling.

Wire Pulling 101

When pulling wires, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to the tubing to reduce friction. This approach also puts less stress on the wire and minimizes the chance of tearing or damaging the wire. A solution of soapy water can be applied (to allow the wires to slip through the tube with minimal resistance); however, some folks worry that soap can ruin the insulation or possibly cause corrosion. A better idea is to purchase special wire pulling lubricant, such as 3M’s Wire Pulling Lubricant Gel.

When you wire a t-top with larger wire bundles, you may want to stagger the wires where attached to the snake. This both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Finally, include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling the wire bundle to assist with future installations.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating June 2019

How to Install a Solar Panel on Your Boat

Install a Solar Panel on Your Boat

Sunbathers delight! Here’s how to install a solar panel on your boat.

It’s no wonder solar panels are such a popular way to “green up” a vessel’s energy plan. They’re noiseless, have no moving parts and provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance. Here’s how to outfit your boat to soak up some sun and install a solar panel on your boat.

Usage

Most boats can benefit from solar power. Smaller craft (whether at a slip, mooring or on a trailer) can keep their batteries topped off without the need for shoreside power.
Larger vessels can use solar power to supplement or even replace other onboard charging sources to reduce or eliminate the need to run engines or generators.

Types of solar panels

The three main types of solar panels are monocrystalline, polycrystalline and amorphous (or thin-film) technology. Each uses photovoltaic cells (small silicon semiconductor devices) to convert sunlight into electricity. Monocrystalline panels are the oldest type. They feature thin slices of crystal silicon housed in a rigid, aluminum frame and covered with tempered, shatterproof glass. They’re the most efficient (around 17 percent) and have the highest electrical output per area, but are also the most expensive.

Polycrystalline cells are sliced from a cast silicon block and have a shattered glass appearance. Built in much the same way as monocrystalline panels, they’re rectangular and give the panel a tiled look. Their life span is similar to monocrystalline panels and while their conversion efficiency is lower (14 percent), they’re less expensive.

Amorphous panels, aka thin film photovoltaic cells (TFPV), are made by placing a thin film of active silicon on a solid or flexible backing, such as stainless or aluminum sheeting, depending on whether the panel is to be rigid-framed and glass-fronted or flexible. Amorphous panels are the least expensive of the three types; however, their efficiency is about eight percent or roughly half that of the monocrystalline type. However, in instances of newer panels that built with three-layer construction techniques, the effect is less apparent. Each layer absorbs different colors of the solar spectrum so the panel will deliver more power longer each day and during low-light conditions than the other two types.

Planning the system

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on knowing what you want the system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a battery or supplement an overall vessel energy plan? Answering these questions up front will help you decide the type, size and number of panels required.

To better understand the process, let’s walk through the basic steps to determine the power requirements and other considerations for a single solar panel installation. This is a simple example, but are the same steps for more complicated installations.

Let’s say you want to install a solar panel to provide charging for a 12-volt, 100-amp hour, wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel. The first step is to figure out how much output you’ll need by compiling a daily power consumption estimate.

To start, the daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly one percent, meaning that your 100-amp hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours to maintain the status quo. Assuming your anchor light operates 10 hours each night and draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, multiply the current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) to reach a daily energy expenditure of .5 amps.

This means your solar panel will have to meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps (one amp to address the battery self-discharge rate plus the .5 amps draw of your anchor light).

Mounting

The next step is to figure out the panel size and the best mounting location. Solar
panels should be installed in a spot where they don’t interfere with the boat’s while underway. Ideally, the installation will be adjustable so it allows you to rotate or turn panels toward the sun periodically throughout the day (which can increase power generation by up to 40 percent). Panel output ratings are based on ideal conditions, e.g., 90-degree orientation to bright sunlight, no shadowing, optimal temperatures, and no load attached.

For the real world, assume a panel will produce roughly half its advertised wattage in amp-hours per day when actively aimed at the sun (otherwise, it’ll be around 30 percent).
Popular mounting locations for fixed panels include cabin tops, stern rails, atop dinghy davits, radar arches, and Bimini tops (with some flexible panels being sewn right into the
canvas). Rollable, marine-grade panels can mount in a variety of locations using their corner grommets and are easy to remove and store.

Slightly raise any large, ridged, deck-mounted panels. This lets air circulate beneath because higher temperatures increase resistance and decrease cell output.  Installations in warmer climates may require panels with a higher maximum output to compensate for this. Our example panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt panel should contribute between 3 and 5 amp hours per day. You’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge your 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with at least 33 cells which should provide around 14.85 volts.

Real World

Keep in mind that’s the minimum needed and may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome
conditions like clouds or inherent electrical resistance. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you’ll want to install a charge
controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating May 2019

DIY Gelcoat

DIY Gelcoat

Gelcoat care, protection and minor repair of this finish are essential to your boat’s maintenance. Here’s the lowdown on DIY gelcoat.

Think of your boat’s hull or any other layered component, such as hatches, decks or superstructure, as a piled-up, sky-high, multi-decker sandwich. Only instead of your favorite combo of meats and cheeses with some lettuce, tomato and a bit of mustard or mayonnaise garnish, you have resins, various configurations of fiberglass matting, perhaps even some carbon fiber material, complex catalysts, and other chemically brewed side dishes thrown in to help create your boat and its myriad parts.

Gelcoat is the first coat during the build process that is applied to the mold before any subsequent layers are put down. The smooth, strong, flexible, reflective, and water-resistant layer, with thicknesses ranging from 1/64- to 3/64-inch and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer along with the age of your boat, has one prime directive: to protect the underlying substrate consisting of resin-saturated or resin-infused,
layered fiberglass coring material.

Should water intrude due to a crack or other opening, blistering and the even more serious condition of delamination could take place. “If it hasn’t been so severely degraded or damaged, most surface gelcoat problems can be rescued by using the right products
in the correct manner and a regular preventive maintenance regiment,” says Sam McGinley of Shurhold Industries.

Maintenance

For DIY gelcoat, start at the dock and make sure it is properly fended off so that you can avoid anything other than eggshell landings. Extra protection secured at strategic possible strike areas will prevent unwanted scratches, abrasions, and costly fiberglass work. As part of your regular maintenance regimen, keep your boat’s exterior clean, especially saltwater boats, to avoid the dreaded dull, chalky result of oxidation. This means a thorough freshwater washdown each time you use your boat. And you may want to have someone in your marina rinse her off from time to time to prevent any unwanted build-up of evaporated residue. It’s also important to wipe everything dry with a proper chamois to remove any mineral deposits that can degrade the gelcoat.

Oxidation occurs when a combination of sun, salt deposits, seasonal storage, and local environmental issues form a layer on the gelcoat. As the corrosive
chemical reactions take hold, the result is a degradation of the shiny finish. This is doubly important for boaters who have a 12-month season in mostly sunny climes.

“Try to pick an inconspicuous area and go through the process to restore that section,” suggests McGinley. Start with the least aggressive polish applied by hand, brush or a compounding pad and a dual action machine. “Our Buff Magic, applied by ‘painting’ it
on, is a variable grit compound that starts off fairly aggressive and breaks down as you use it.”

Pick Your Poison

When you use a machine and a particular product, apply it to the pad and place it on the space before powering up to avoid spinning things away. Should the area come clean and shiny, you can proceed with the rest of the job. If the entire hull needs attention, do it all at the same time for a uniform finish.

“With compounding being the corrective process and waxing the protective process, the latter is the single most important course of action you can use to protect your boat’s gelcoat,” says McGinley and recommends an easy-to-apply, polymer sealant product applied by hand or with a dual action polisher.

In sunny, year-round climes, it is suggested to apply the sealant every three months, while in limited boating seasons, once before you launch and again at haul-out before the boat is stored for the season. “Should you choose our products, they are all matched for use in regards to pad and polish/wax,” says McGinley. Remember that pads need to be
changed with buildup.

Minor Repair

If you have noticeable scratches or surface abrasions, you may want to have a go at it yourself. A fix like this requires attention to detail and patience, and always wear gloves and protective eyewear.

Clean the area, usually with acetone, to remove any surface contamination. Lightly wet-sand the area with 1,000-grit paper, and finish it off with 1,500-grit paper so as not to remove the gelcoat. Wash the area clean with some soapy water and dry. You can then go to the section with your sealer and buffer.

If there is any significant damage, it’s best to call in an experienced fiberglass repair person to handle it. Digging out deep scratches, cracks, gouges, or dings usually requires
working with special tools, fillers, and other products. You may need grinding tools and color matching is difficult.

It’s better to avoid creating a bigger job than what you started with. You can keep your gelcoat and your boat looking great with a little time, effort and care.

By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating April 2019

Annual Haul Out Guide

A Southern Boating Magazine Supplement: Annual Haul Out Guide

Our annual haul out guide has everything you need to know about planning your boat’s maintenance. From new system installation to surprise costs and product reviews, Southern Boating is your number one resource for planning a trip to the yard.

Our annual Haul Out Guide is a reader favorite and now we’re sharing the valuable info.

The 2019 guide covers fire suppression systems, potable water, windlass advice and much more. Read the 2019 articles here, or download the entire guide below.

  1. Boats and (thru) Holes
  2. Replace Your Enclosures
  3. Synthetic Decking
  4. Cut Your Amp Usage
  5. How do Watermakers Work?
  6. Dock Maintenance

Below is our archive of printable/downloadable Haul Out Guides. Take it with you to the boatyard, your backyard or wherever you work on your boat.

Questions? Comments? What are your tips and comments about getting work done? Let us know and you could be featured on our website! Tell us your best with your best haul out stories in the comments.

2019 

2018
2017

Five Ways to Cut Down on Amp Usage

 

 

Five ways to cut down on amp usage

Most modern marine equipment has evolved to require much less power. When you’re in the boatyard this spring, do more with less and cut down on amp usage.

Radar

Arguably, you use radar under way when your engines are running, so who really cares how much power it’s using?

On the other hand, if your electronics suite is due for an upgrade, consider a more efficient unit. In standby mode, radar doesn’t draw much, but when it’s transmitting, the power needs are quite high. Consider one of the new units like the Simrad Halo that comes with either open or closed array antennas. This solid-state, pulse compression radar delivers a mix of close-in and long-range detection and excellent target definition with low clutter.

It has five modes to help process a variety of targets and a range from 48 to 72 nautical miles. The Halo is available for both 24- and 12-volt applications and an added bonus is its ultra-low electromagnetic and radiation emissions.
That means you can put one on the flybridge with you and not worry too much about scrambling your brain when the radar is running.

Climate Control

Air conditioners create the greatest energy loads aboard, and chances are the older your system, the more power it takes. New units from companies like Dometic are smaller,
self-contained and quieter with vibration-isolation mounts. Their high-efficiency rotary and scroll blowers use fewer amps and notably reduce fatiguing sound. Italian company Termodinamica (TMD) offers 24-volt DC units that don’t even need a genset. Made with titanium heat exchangers, the TMD units touts a power consumption rate that’s 50 percent lower than other comparably sized units on the market. Many air conditioners today also have an ECO mode where they ramp down if they are running off of batteries, via an inverter, and the battery voltage starts to fall. Adding window shades and tinted glass will also relieve the pressure on air conditioners and may even help refresh your interior design.

Refrigeration

The fridge also is a major power hog. Refrigerator efficiency has to do with the type
of unit (air, water or keel-cooled) and the quality of insulation around the box.
Frigoboat has highly efficient fridges in both 12- and 24-volt applications with refrigerator, freezer or combo solutions.

Their unique keel-cooled system is reliable, efficient and quiet with no pump or fan to create noise, and it doesn’t need winterizing. Check the age and condition of your insulation, too, or just tear out the old stuff and install some stainless steel drawers that will also upgrade the boat’s aesthetics.

Isotherm offers plug-and-play solutions with their cabinet refrigerators powered by 12/24-volt Danfoss compressors. These units feature extra thick, but still compact, insulation so the boxes stay cold with less power. They even have stand-alone, plug-in coolers for use on deck so you can keep your beverages nearby and not have to open the galley refrigerator as much.

These Travel Boxes also have ECO modes to slow the compressor once the food and drinks are already chilled.

Lighting

Most new boats now come standard with interior and exterior LED lighting, but if your vessel is of an older vintage, it would be worth swapping out your deck, salon and galley lights for new ones that draw less power. Imtra offers a variety of fixtures to help you upgrade the look of your interior including courtesy lights that create an impressive ambiance. As design trends move from direct to indirect lighting, options migrate from
down and spotlights to strip and rope lighting hidden behind valences and under furniture.

Evolved whites in LED options are now available, so it’s not hard to create a warm glow.
Efficient lights include navigation or running lights like those by Attwood, Perko, LopoLight, and Aqua Signal. You’ll save a few amps with an LED anchor light that you forget to turn off.

Finally, don’t forget those power-hogging heat generators below the waterline.  Underwater lights are known as large consumers of power. New developments in optical design, thermal management, and marinized electrical components have created lights that are brighter and use less power.

Lumishore’s thru-hull and surface mount, full-color cycling lights can replace older lights and provide better color while they use less power, and they can even be paired with
sound to “dance” to music. That’s worth the price of admission alone.

Battery Efficiency

Finally, efficiency comes down to the size, quality, and type of your battery bank. Charging with a genset is more efficient than charging with the engines and alternators, but a good battery bank is also important to your onboard power equation. The better the efficiency of a battery, the higher its charge acceptance rate, which is the amount of energy that can be pumped into a battery in a given period. Wet cells are about 60 percent efficient, gel cells 75 percent and AGMs 85 percent.

AGMs, especially any of the thin plate, pure lead (TPPL) variants, also have the highest charge acceptance rate, so they will optimize system performance. How you charge is also important. Charging cool batteries quickly is most efficient. For banks that are especially depleted, it may be best to charge with engines and the genset simultaneously. As batteries heat up during charging, it takes longer to get that last percent of charge pushed in despite the genset running just as hard as in the beginning.

These are just a few ideas on how you can save power and thereby burn less fuel and shrink your carbon footprint. Some of these are bigger projects, while others are a matter of just upgrading aging equipment. Chances are that some of these systems will pay for themselves down the road in operation costs, fuel and wear and tear on your engines or genset.

By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating March 2019

Return to the Haul Out Guide

Boats and Thru-hull Holes

When you have to install thru-hull holes, do it right the first time.

Most any boat maintenance guru worth his Veda will advise you to avoid adding additional
thru-hull holes if at all possible. Tapping into an existing discharge or intake thru-hull is often recommended but may not always be an option. While drilling a hole in your boat’s hull is not ideal, the actual process to install a new thru-hull is pretty straightforward.

Let’s walk through a hypothetical installation of an air conditioning system that requires two new thru-hulls, one that’s below the waterline intake and the other above the waterline discharge.

Preparation

American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) standards call for the installation of a seacock on thru-hulls located below the vessel’s maximum heeled waterline. For the purpose of this
article, we’ll say the discharge thru-hull does not require a seacock; however, the raw water intake thru-hull (located below the waterline) does.

The discharge thru-hull for our example will be bronze. The seacock will be a typical flanged bronze unit with a compatible bronze thru-hull, although Marelon polymer seacocks and thru-hulls would be another option. Just keep in mind that the seacock and thru-hull must always be of the same material.

When planning the installation, choose a location that provides good access to the thru-hull. For our intake thru-hull, verify that the seacock can be accessed quickly in the event of an emergency and that the handle can be fully operated (i.e., no frames, bulkheads, etc., that block the throw of the handle).

In addition, avoid locating the thru-hull in front of a depth transducer or knot log, both of which could be affected by the turbulence a thru-hull generates.  Once you’ve identified a suitable location, mark the center of the thru-hull and drill a small pilot hole from inside the vessel. This gives you one last chance to check the location on the outside of the hull to verify all is well prior to cutting the hole.

Hole saw time

Select a hole saw the same diameter or slightly larger than your thru-hull, one with a pilot drill bit, which prevents the hole saw from walking when drilling. Using the small location hole you drilled as a guide, start drilling from the outside of the hull and be sure to keep the drill perpendicular to the hull surface. Drill until the pilot bit of the hole saw penetrates the hull, then move inside and finish drilling the hole. Smooth any rough edges of the hole with sandpaper.

For a cored hull, excavate the coring around the hole to a depth that encompasses an area at least as large as the thru-hull or seacock flange. Then fill the void with thickened
epoxy and allow it to cure before proceeding. This epoxy compression ring provides a solid base for the thru-hull and prevents water from entering the core.

Backing plates

A backing plate provides additional support to the hull and a flat mounting surface for the thru-hull nut or seacock flange should there be any hull curvature. A fiberglass backing plate glassed into the hull is the ultimate solution, however, marine-grade plywood is commonly used and perfectly acceptable.

Backing plates should be two to three inches larger in diameter than the thru-hull nut or seacock flange. Cut a circular backing plate from ¾-inch marine plywood, then drill
a hole in the center with the hole saw used to drill the thru-hull hole in the hull. Use a sander or wood rasp to shape the backing plate as needed to match the curvature of the hull. Once fitted, mark the backing plate so you can properly orient it later.

Test run

Always dry fit the thru-hull/seacock prior to final installation. Remove the backing nut and insert the discharge thru-hull from the outside. On the inside, fit the backing plate over it,
then install and snug up the flange nut. The intake thru-hull will screw directly into the seacock. Remove the thru-hull nut, insert the thru-hull into the hull, fit the backing plate, thread the seacock onto the thru-hull, and tighten until snug.

For bronze thru-hulls, a special tool called a step wrench is used to grip the ears inside the unit and hold it securely during tightening. A wedge of plywood inserted in the thru-hull also works well in a pinch.

WHEN IS A SEACOCK NOT A SEACOCK?

Many builders utilize inline valves attached directly to the thru-hull. However, there are a number of problems associated with this approach. To start with, in-line valves use NPT (National Pipe Taper) threads, which are not compatible with the NPS (National Pipe Straight) used in most thru-hull fittings (unless the thru-hull fitting is machined with “combination thread”).

Installing an in-line valve onto an NPS thru-hull fitting creates a mismatch of threads resulting in a weaker, less waterproof joint (due to less thread engagement). As it has no mounting flange, an in-line valve can turn or loosen from the thru-hull fitting due to vibration or through normal use. Finally, unlike proper seacocks, in-line valves are not fitted with grease nipples, bonding wire tabs or drains, each of which can create potential maintenance and winterization issues.

Once inserted into the seacock and moderately tightened, there should be a sufficient length of thru-hull inside the seacock but not enough that the thru-hull bottoms out.

If the thru-hull is too long, cut it to length. If the thru-hull is too short, use thinner plywood (½ inch, for example) to construct the backing plate. Most flanged seacocks have three mounting holes to prevent the seacock from turning once installed. There are two acceptable methods to secure the seacock. The first is to drill holes through the backing plate and hull (using the flange as a guide), then install bolts through the hull and secure everything together.

The second is to screw the seacock flange to the backing plate only. This is the option we’ll go with for our example. Regardless of the method chosen, ensure the mounting bolts or screws are of the same material as the seacock. Either stainless steel or bronze is acceptable when mounting nylon seacocks.

Installation

Once the dry fit is complete, disassemble everything and seal both backing plates with three to four coats of epoxy and allow to dry. You’ll need a second set of hands to hold the thru-hull in place during installation and while tightening. Apply a generous amount of marine-grade sealant (polyurethane or polysulfide) to the thru-hulls mushroom
flange, then insert it into the hull.

On the inside, apply sealant to the hull (around the inserted thru-hull) and hull side of the backing plate. Slide the backing plate over the thru-hull, orient as required and press down, bedding it to the hull.

For our discharge thru-hull, the next step is to add a thick bead of sealant to the top of the backing plate hole around the thru-hull, install the thru-hull nut and tighten snugly. You should see a ring of sealant ooze from beneath the thru-hull nut. For the intake thru-hull, apply sealant to the seacock’s flange (again, enough to see “squeeze out” all around once tightened), and then thread the seacock onto the thru-hull and tighten.

Once the seacock is properly positioned and tightened, use the flange as a template to drill the mounting holes into the backing plate. Be sure to drill into the backing plate only,
not into the hull (use a drill stop or piece of tape attached to the bit to prevent this). Clean the mounting holes of debris, add sealant to the holes and threads of the mounting screws, then install.

Once the installation is finished, fit the seacock with an appropriately sized tailpiece/hose barb (using thread sealant) and attach the cooling system intake hose to it. Attach the air
conditioning discharge hose to the hose barb of the overboard thru-hull, and it’s pa’u hana!

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating March 2019

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Sacrificial Anodes

Sacrificial Anodes

Sacrificial anodes die so your underwater gear may live.

A war is raging under your boat. High-priced running gear and outboard lower units made of aluminum, copper, and steel face galvanic corrosion. Corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals connect under water. The solution involves connecting an even more “active” negatively charged material to the copper and steel—the sacrificial anode. The anodes are made of aluminum, zinc, and magnesium and connected to the boat’s underwater engine and propulsion parts to take the brunt of the corrosion. They are “sacrificed” to protect the more valuable metals.

How do anodes work?

“Anodes have to be underwater to work,” explains Martin Wigg, vice president of Anode Business at Performance Metals. “The anodes work by providing a supply of electrons to lower the voltage of the protected metal. That is only half the circuit though. The other half is the flow of ions in the surrounding water. No water equals no ion flow and no circuit and, therefore, no protection. There are companies that market ‘corrosion grenades’ to protect metal in air, but they are a scam.”

Aluminum has become a recommended metal for anodes in salt water, and magnesium anodes work best in fresh water. In fresh water, a zinc anode forms a chemical coating that stops it from working; however, zinc anodes are a favorite of many boat owners in salt water despite the advantages of aluminum. “Zinc is still used in the majority of cases,” says Wigg. “It’s fine for use on inboard boats in salt water but that’s really all.

However, people are slow to change. They have been using zinc for years and are hesitant to change to something new, especially if zinc is working fine.” When boaters take the leap and try aluminum anodes, they find that they work better than the old zinc anodes and never go back. This is especially true for aluminum-hulled boats and outboard motors.

How long do anodes last?

“Zinc doesn’t really protect aluminum components that well even in salt water,” Wigg explains. “Many boaters also don’t realize that zinc doesn’t work for long in fresh or brackish water. I have heard people say, ‘My anodes have lasted for years.’ Yes, because they stopped working.” Anodes dissolve over time and, eventually, must be replaced.

Martin Wigg’s Top Tips for Anodes.

Two factors are important. First, to provide good protection, there must be enough anodes to bring the full potential of the vessel down by 0.2V to an acceptable range. The lower the measured voltage, the less likely the metal will corrode. This is where zinc anodes have a problem protecting aluminum components. Zinc anodes sit at -1.05V and aluminum components sit at around -0.75V, a difference of 0.3V, not much more than the required 0.2V drop. Aluminum anodes—a special alloy—sit at -1.1V, a difference of 0.35V, which is much better.

“The second factor is that the protection offered is proportional to the surface area,” Wigg says. “So as the anodes wear away, that surface area is reduced. The general guide is to replace the anodes after they have worn down by one half.” Performance Metals’ range of aluminum alloy anodes has a Red Spot plastic indicator that appears on the surface when it is time to change.

Which boats need anodes?

A 50-foot fiberglass cruising vessel has metal components that need protecting. With bonded thru-hulls, use a transom anode at a minimum. Wigg suggests the Performance Metals’ Divers Anode or HYAA (ribbed anode with extra surface area). “Viking uses these on its vessels. There should also be anodes on the engine’s drive shaft to protect the propeller and shaft. The bonding system is not well connected to the shaft since it goes through the gearbox.”

There are various shapes and sizes of anodes that have a variety of purposes.

Outboard-powered boats need anodes to protect the engines. Install the main aluminum anodes on the outboards. A transom anode for any other metal components is also advisable and should be aluminum. A zinc transom anode would reduce the protection provided by the aluminum ones on the outboard and speed up their use.

Also, outboards are unique because the midsection and lower unit are almost always aluminum. Back in the early 1990s, as the outboard makers saw galvanic corrosion as a huge issue, they sought a better solution than zinc anodes and went to aluminum. Some outboard manufacturers void warranties if anodes are zinc.

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating February 2019

Install a Stereo on Your Boat

Install a Stereo on Your Boat

Everyone likes tunes while on the water, but if your boat didn’t come with a factory-installed stereo, you don’t have to suffer the sound of silence. Let’s take a look at what’s involved to install a stereo on your boat.

Stereo receiver

When choosing a stereo to install on your boat, you need to consider both the unit and mounting options. Back in the day, the standard stereo was a 7×2-inch box that included a CD player. Today’s trends are stereos designed exclusively to play music from strictly digital media sources: MP3 players, iPods, and smartphones. As no CD player is required, the design and size of today’s stereos vary greatly from traditional units, and most have a smaller cutout.

Back in the day, stereos on your boat took up a lot more space.

The “black box” type of stereos add yet additional dimension to the mix. These units consist of a small box housing the amplifier, radio and all the wiring connections. They’re controlled by a waterproof, hockey puck shaped, wired remote that’s mounted in a convenient location (helm, swim platform, etc.).

These remote units can also be sized to fit easily into a dashboard to take up less real estate at the helm. When shopping for a new stereo, you might logically assume that all “marine” stereos are waterproof, but surprisingly, that’s not the case. Some units are fully waterproof, but others may be splash resistant or waterproof only when the faceplate is sealed. Partially waterproof units can have an open chassis that is prone to water intrusion should moisture find its way past the faceplate gasket. Thoroughly read the information on any potential stereo purchase to ensure you know just how protected it is against moisture.

Unless the unit is completely waterproof, you’ll want to choose a dry location for your stereo that provides as much protection against the elements as possible. Dry may be a relative term for smaller, open boats (center consoles and the like), but even then, there will be some locations that provide better protection than others. When you install a stereo on your boat, choose a waterproof stereo or remote control. It’s always a good option, especially when mounting choices are less than ideal.

Speakers

Speakers will either be flush mounted or box speakers, both of which have their own set of pros and cons. Flush-mount speakers can be installed in tight, out-of-the-way spaces and present a cleaner looking installation. As to downsides, they require you to cut a hole in your boat to install. For best frequency response, flush-mount speakers must have sufficient air space around the cone. You also don’t want an open-air path behind the speaker, which can reduce the bass response. The speaker installation instructions should spell out minimal space requirements and other such requirements for best performance.

Box speakers are an attractive option for a number of reasons. They don’t require you to cut holes for mounting, and the box enclosure is already designed and set for optimal performance. This means you don’t have to worry about the required air space around the speaker. The only real downside to box speakers is that they take up more space than flush-mount units.

Speaker position

When planning to install a stereo on your boat, keep in mind that speakers are directional, meaning they project sound in the direction they are pointed. As such, you want them to be directed to where your ears will be. This isn’t as critical in your car or home because there are numerous surfaces for the sound to bounce off of, but when they ate installed in an open boat, the sound they produce can easily be lost.

Make sure your speakers are angled so that the music is possible to hear.

Select speaker locations that not only optimize sound but also minimize exposure to water as much as possible. Stereo sound is way better than mono sound, so choose locations that allow you to hear at least two speakers at the same time. Otherwise, you’ll only be getting half of the
music experience.

Before you cut the hole

You’ve chosen an ideal location for the stereo, but is it really all that? Take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk through it to head off any potential problems. For example, you’ve found the perfect spot for the stereo or remote head, but is there a path to run the control cable or wire bundle? You’ll also want to be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mounting location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables or even the hull itself is never conducive to a good stereo install.

This mental walk-through also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job and prevent extra trips to the chandlery. For many, the most daunting part of any stereo installation is routing the wires and cabling. It doesn’t have to be that way, however, if you plan the run first and have the proper tools. One of the handiest tools for pulling wires and cables is an electrician’s “fish tape” or wire snake. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and bends. Those made of tempered wire are commonly used, although newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also popular.

Regardless of the one you choose, you’ll want to be able to twist the snake to better make turns and bends, reducing or eliminating the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation.

Installing a stereo system is a satisfying day or weekend project that’s within the ability of most any DIYer. Just take a little time to plan out the installation beforehand to help ensure you’ll enjoy the sweet sound of success for years to come.

Cable Pulling 101

  • When pulling wire or coax, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to reduce friction. This approach puts less stress on the wire while reducing the chances of tears or damage to insulation or wiring.
  • ­When using a snake, feed it through first with nothing attached, then attach the cable or wire bundle to the end of the snake and pull everything back through slowly. Make this attachment as small as possible for easier pulling (covering the joint with a few tight wraps of electrical tape will make it more streamlined).
  • When pulling larger wire bundles, stagger the wires where attached to the snake, which both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling wire or coax to assist with future installations.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating January 2019

Need more marine stereo equipment?

Dock Maintenance

Dock Maintenance

Regular dock maintenance will keep it safe for your boat and guests.

It wouldn’t be wrong to say every boat owner has at least an ounce of pride in their vessel no matter its condition, with most taking great strides to make sure it’s cared for
and in good shape. No one wants to miss the opportunity to get out on the water when the time is right. In addition to keeping the boat up to snuff, the same goes for its home port: the dock.

If you’re lucky enough to own your own dock or even if you rent one, it’s important to maintain the structure and add features that protect both the boat and those who
walk on it.

Inspect it

Safety should always be at the forefront. Each time you walk the dock, look at it with an eye for imperfection. Look for nails or screws backing out of wood planks and for loose and rotting boards. You don’t want the kids or guests to trip and fall or catch splinters in their feet.

Is there anything missing? Take a look at the structure both above and below the waterline. Are fasteners, bolts, nuts, and cross beams solid? When you jerk the dock, does it feel like the pilings are loose? Are lashing straps tight around the floating platform? If you think “I should fix that,” then don’t wait. Plan to do it as soon as possible.

Keep it clean

Besides keeping your dock clear of debris, toys and loose gear, clean it. A stiff scrub brush with biodegradable soap or environmentally safe cleaning solutions like baking soda paste are usually effective, but a pressure washer makes the job easier. Remember that using a pressure washer can “burn” the wood if the spray nozzle is too close. Afterward, the wood will be softer and splinters will appear, so take a sander to the boards and smooth out the rough spots. Also, take time to sand out any rust spots on steel parts or supports.

Don’t forget to remove growth as well. Barnacles and other creatures, as well as plants, cause damage that can’t be seen until they’re removed. A putty knife usually does the trick, but scrub the area with an abrasive pad after removal to make sure.

Fix it

Don’t wait to make repairs. Murphy’s Law will find its way, and covering the dock with carpet or such only hides what will continue to get worse and cost more later. If there are damaged areas in a wood dock, use marine putty or wood filler to repair holes or splits. Replace screws or nails if they’re backing out, and if they are, evaluate if the board needs to be replaced. It doesn’t matter how much the dock is used; hardware will loosen and rust with weather, so regular dock maintenance is important. Lubricate moving pieces such as chains, and replace rusted parts when necessary.

Seal it

Wood docks, in particular, are vulnerable to the marine environment through moisture, sun and changing temperatures, so use only treated lumber. Once the dock is cleaned, repaired and sanded, apply a waterproof sealant that is environmentally friendly. There are sealants available that are low volatile organic compounds (VOC), but check local regulations before applying. If you remove the dock during the winter, allow the sealant to completely dry before installation.

Dress it up

Now that the dock is clean, safe and secure, trim the dock with a few accessories. Protect the boat from accidental bumps by attaching dock bumpers and rub rails. The areas that cause the most damage are the corners, and bumpers come in a variety of configurations and lengths as well as materials. They mount in a number of ways from along the
sides, corners, flush with the top, around pilings, and more.

Another safety feature is to add lights. “Docks and seawalls can be precarious and dangerous areas, and any additional lighting is beneficial for accident prevention,” says
Mick McDonald of Lumitec. “Lighting adds an additional level of security to your property to help protect expensive investments.” Lights also add ambiance to your dock and property and attract marine life to watch on a warm summer evening.

Chances are, your dock is used for a variety of activities as well as a place to store gear. If you inspect it regularly and keep it solid, clean and safe, it’ll be the perfect home for your boat and a great place to hang out for many seasons to come.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating March 2019

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Synthetic Teak

New synthetic teak decking keeps feet cooler.

The beauty of real teak wood on boat decks is undeniable, but look-alike decking made of synthetic teak substances has become a popular trend for many reasons.

Those reasons include its affordability, low maintenance, nonskid appeal, uniform appearance, and soft feel underfoot.

The downside has been its tendency to absorb heat, which makes the product uncomfortable for bare feet in southern boating locales that have continuous sun exposure (e.g. Florida). Technological improvements have enabled today’s product offerings to be cooler underfoot. They also to benefit greatly from the type of materials used, manufacturing processes, color options, and ease of installation.

Some DIYers may have the skills and patience to tackle installing new synthetic teak decking themselves. But an annual haul-out is the ideal time to add new decking to your boatyard’s project list.

If your boat is overdue for new decking, take a look at some of the hottest, cool-comfort synthetic teak decking offerings on the market.

Flexiteek

This company has offered synthetic teak boat decking material since 2000. Flexiteek is the OEM supplier for many boat builders and has distributors in 38 countries. The company’s newest advancement is Flexiteek 2G, which was in development for two years and is the
manufacturer’s “Next Generation of Decking” for its lighter weight and ability to cool 30 percent faster than traditional composite decking. Flexiteek comes in eight wood colors with black, white or gray caulking.
flexiteek.com 

Isiteek is made for DIY install on small areas.
isiteek.com

PlasDECK

PlasTEAK, Inc. introduced its synthetic boat decking PlasDECK in 2005. Its been popular ever since. With 25 colors and custom variations, the new PlasDECK Eco Series utilizes leftover scraps from manufacturing that are recycled for the bottom layer and makes the product even more affordable as well as eco-friendly.

PlasDECK Eco Series has an identical look and feel of the standard PlasDECK boat decking, but the family-owned, Made-in-America company passes on the manufacturing cost savings directly to the customer. Product cost is further reduced by offering it in large sheet form. This is advantageous for resurfacing large deck spaces like houseboats, pontoons or boats with large decks.

PlasDECK Eco Series won the Innovation Award at the 2018 Miami Boat Show. PlasDECK CoolTEAK remains cooler than other PVC decking materials, which makes it ideal for swim platforms. CoolTEAK is currently only available in premade mats from templates and is not for DIY applications.
plasdeck.com

Dek-king

Dek-king 2G is the company’s next-generation premium synthetic teak decking that’s 30 percent cooler underfoot and 32 percent lighter than previous 1G product offerings. Dek-king’s lifelike graining that differs between planks replicates natural wood to provide a finish that’s nearly indistinguishable from real teak.

Wilks is the British family-owned manufacturer and supplier of Dek-King synthetic teak decking. Flexiteek International announced in a press release earlier this year that an agreement has been reached to acquire Wilks, and the merger is planned to finalize later this year. Flexiteek plans to retain the Wilks manufacturing premises in Essex, northeast of London, England, along with all employees, combining the skillset of both companies to serve the international marine market.

The acquisition will facilitate the supply of synthetic teak and fendering to a list of OEM clients that include Royal Huisman, Hanse Group, Jeanneau Beneteau Group, Princess
Yachts, Gulf Craft, Sunseeker International, and X-Yachts.
dek-king.com

By L.N. Evans, Southern Boating March 2019

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Replace Your Enclosures

Replace Your Enclosures

Blurry or worn view? It may be time to replace your enclosures.

While under way, if you confuse a scratch on your boat’s enclosure with a buoy in the channel, then it’s time to repair or replace your acrylic, vinyl or another type of clear marine enclosure. The scheduled down period during haul-out or any time when convenient at a marine service yard gives the professional the time to do it right. Today, the choices of clear enclosures are myriad and include products made of acrylic, polycarbonate and vinyl.

As a material’s primer, acrylic enclosures are semirigid and include brands like EZ2CY. Polycarbonates fall under brands such as Makrolon, and clear vinyl includes CrystalClear, Regalite and Strataglass. Each has its own distinct attributes and applications.

Acrylic

In the sub-tropics like The Bahamas and South Florida, boats must endure high humidity and temperature swings, and that’s where acrylic works the best. Acrylic does not fade or yellow over time, and you can also buff out scratches. “EZ2CY is 80-gauge acrylic and it doesn’t roll, but is made to lift up,” explains Andy Flack, project manager for Canvas Designers in Riviera Beach. “The panels pin to the roof or the bridge when you don’t need them. Because of the thickness, it can withstand a lot more air pressure when under way and holds in the cool air if you use an air conditioner.”

For boats already equipped with EZ2CY enclosures, the refurbishing and buffing process during haul-out is simple. “Once at the yard, do an inspection and if it’s scratched, have
the yard take it out and send it to your EZ2CY dealer,” Flack recommends. “The dealer will have it buffed and polished, then hang it or store it and bring it back to the boat looking like new. Then it can be re-installed so it’s perfect when the boat comes out of the yard.”

Vinyl

Many boat owners need enclosures that can be rolled up out of the way, and that’s where clear vinyl works well. Clear uncoated vinyl is pliable so it’s easy to roll up, but users
must take care because it is easily scratched. Strataglass incorporates the scratch-resistant coating VueShield that helps reduce scratches. Uncoated vinyl is less expensive than coated vinyl, and both products must be handled carefully so they don’t become wrinkled or creased. In addition, vinyl will become yellow or hazy over time.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate enclosures like Makrolon are semirigid, so they can’t be rolled up and must be pinned or unzipped and removed. Scratch-resistant coatings are used to protect the surface. Polycarbonate can be expensive; however, it offers excellent visibility.  Polycarbonates are popular in northern climes and Great Lakes areas where the sun and
temperatures are not as extreme as in tropical climes. Because it’s a petroleum-based product, polycarbonate can yellow in tropical weather.

Maintenance

Once the new enclosures are in place, proper maintenance can help them last a long time. In the saltwater environment, the primary goal is to displace the saltwater by not using harsh chemicals. Soapy water is the strongest solution you should use because many cleaners use ammonia or alcohol, which will break down acrylic and cause it to haze and crack. Once that happens, you can’t buff it or sand it out. “Have a separate set of cleaning tools that don’t get used anywhere else on the boat,” Flack instructs. “You don’t want to pick up any dirt or debris on your cleaning tools that could harm the glass.”

Fasteners

How the enclosures are fixed to the boat is another choice that boat owners must make. Haul-out is also the time to service the zippers, Velcro and fabric borders on your enclosures. Fasteners such as slides, snaps and zippers are used with acrylic or vinyl products from companies like Sunbrella and Herculite.

Canvas Designers uses Stamoid, a dimensionally stable vinyl from Serge Ferrari. “We then connect the glass to the boat using a track-to-track application,” says Flack. “There
is a track in the hard top of the boat, and there is a track on the coaming of the flybridge. We sew a bolt rope on the top, and the panel on the bottom zips closed.”

Timing

How often you need to replace your enclosures depends on how often you use your boat. “Some people own boats that are 25 years old that don’t have 1,200 hours on them,” Flack says. “Some of the sportfishing boats are two years old and have 3,000 hours on them; they run them all over the world.”

Sportfishing boats that compete in international tournaments often experience a worn or broken enclosure in a foreign port, and that’s where it can get tricky when trying to repair or replace the panel. The ability to have a replacement shipped to your location is something to consider when purchasing enclosures. Computer-aided design (CAD)  software can store the measurements of your boat’s enclosures for just such a situation.

“If we put an enclosure on a 72 Viking here in Riviera Beach, it is also stored in CAD,” says Flack. “Then if they are down in the Dominican Republic or Puerto Rico and they absolutely tear a panel up, we can make that panel from a computer file. We can ship that panel down to them and be 100 percent confident that it will zip onto the boat.”

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating March 2019

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Which Marine Survey Do You Need for Your Boat?

At some point, you’ll need a marine survey. We break down the most common marine surveys.

Most boat owners will require a marine survey at some point, which can be conducted for any number of reasons. You can inspect your boat and do your own survey, but when it comes to insurance or resale, only a professional survey report is acceptable.

Here’s a rundown of the basic types of marine surveys, along with what to expect when the surveyor comes knocking.

Condition and value survey

This is the most comprehensive assessment a vessel will likely receive. A condition and value survey (C&V) provides clients with an informed, professional opinion of a vessel’s condition and fair market value. It includes an in-depth visual inspection of structural integrity, safety equipment, and all other miscellaneous onboard system s (electrical, propulsion, sanitation, potable water, navigation, etc.) as well as an out-of-water hull inspection and test run (aka sea trial).

The written report of a C&V survey provides detailed information on the vessel and contains a list of noted discrepancies or variations from the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) and National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) standards as well as deviations from U.S.C.G. requirements and prudent seamanship. The report will also contain a “Recommendations” section listing safety, maintenance and repair items that need to be addressed.

Insurance survey

An insurance survey is conducted to assist underwriters in determining a vessel’s condition and insurability for initial policy issuance or renewal. The primary focus of an insurance survey is structural integrity, safety and inspection of system installations as per NFPA and ABYC guidelines. Your safety gear is inspected and noted for compliance with federal requirements, and pertinent identification information is recorded for future reference, valuation, and claims adjustment.

In many cases and depending on the surveyor, the content and scope of a typical insurance survey’s written report is very similar to that of a C&V survey and provides detailed vessel information, discrepancies, and recommendations. The biggest difference is that, in some cases (typically policy renewal for an established client), underwriters will accept an “in-water” survey. Some surveyors see failure to haul and fully inspect the hull and equipment below the waterline as a liability both to them and the best interest of the client. As such, they may decline to conduct a survey (insurance or otherwise) where the vessel is not hauled for inspection.

Appraisal inspection

The appraisal inspection determines the fair market value of a vessel. Instances include: financing, estate settlements, donations, and legal cases (divorce, etc.). As the focus is to simply provide the surveyor’s overall impression of the vessel’s condition, an appraisal inspection is a less in-depth inspection compared to a C&V. The written report will contain basic vessel information, general comments on overall condition and estimated fair market value.

Damage survey

The purpose of a damage survey is to assess the extent of damage to the vessel in the event of an accident. Other items typically included: recommended repairs, estimated repair cost and determining probable cause. Boat owners beware: when you file a damage claim, the surveyor assigned by the underwriter will represent the insurance company’s interest, which may or may not coincide with yours.

Owners have the right to hire their own surveyor to inspect the damage and make recommendations as to repair methods and cost estimates. Depending on the policy, underwriters may even pay for this independent surveyor subject to deductibles and the validity of the claim.

Although we’ve listed the four basic types of surveys and defined the general scope and purpose of each, there is some blurring of the lines separating them. For example, a C&V survey (due to its depth and scope of inspection) can serve double or even triple duty: provide prospective buyers an assessment of a vessel and at the same time, satisfy financial and insurance requirements once the vessel is purchased.

Finding a surveyor

Marine surveys aren’t regulated or licensed by any governmental agency, so it’s important to research potential surveyors. Reputation, word-of-mouth recommendations, and sample survey reports are all part of the selection process. Membership organizations, such as the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors and the National Association of Marine Surveyors, are also good places to start your search.

Cost and Time

Marine survey prices vary depending on the survey requested, type of vessel, hull material, age, the complexity of the systems, and specific requirements for the survey. Surveys are billed by the job, by the hour or on a per-foot basis. Costs vary greatly, depending on the region.

Shop around to get a feel for the going rate in your area, but don’t base your decision solely on the lowest cost. Final selection should include a review of the surveyor’s experience, references, sample surveys, etc.

The length of a marine survey depends on a number of factors, including the type of survey required and prior preparation. An appraisal survey for a typical 40-foot production yacht may last only a few hours, while a condition and value survey for the same vessel (including haulout and sea trial) could easily take a full day.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating February 2019

Check your Clamps and Hoses

Check your clamps and hoses before they check out.

Hard slams and big bangs are conditions every mariner endures in rough seas—hopefully, it doesn’t take long to get to calmer cruising waters. However, while crew and passengers wrestle for stability, it’s a war down in the engine room. The constant vibration, high heat, and extremely hard knocks loosen hoses, clamps, belts, and screws, and equipment can fail. That’s why you need to check your clamps and hoses often.

Vigilance and repair can keep your boat’s engine running at peak performance. Keeping a close eye on your hoses and clamps is a good place to start. By inspecting these important connections on a regular basis—at least twice a year—you’ll make sure they are secure and keep the fluids circulating through the system and not into the engine room.

Cues to Use

“Look for visual clues that may indicate replacement is needed,” explains Mike Crites, senior product category manager, Shields Marine Hose at SeaStar Solutions. “Cracking, signs of leakage, bubbling up of the hose exterior, hose clamps digging into the hose layers, these are some of the most obvious ways to visually inspect.”

Because many hoses are equipped with a barrier layer that prevents chafing and abrasion of the hose’s internal layers, you can spot a potential problem before it starts leaking. Pay close attention to hoses in contact with other pieces of machinery for signs the barrier layer is being worn or damaged.

In general, hoses are considered “flexible” connections between two points. If a hose is rigid and appears to be brittle, it may be time to replace it. Also, most hoses have a date code in the imprinted line identifying the product. Material specifications can vary but pay attention to hoses with date codes older than seven years.

“Bottom line, if you question it, replace it,” Crites says. “Hoses are often overlooked and can easily sink a boat or create a hazardous situation. Proper selection, routing and inspection will prolong hose life and create a safe operating environment.”

Choosing the right type of replacement hose takes a bit of work. Don’t assume the old hose you need to replace was the right one for the job. “One rule applies: Match the hose to the application,” says Crites. “Never assume the guy before you knew what he was doing and installed the correct product. With new regulations always entering the industry, you want to be sure you are replacing with the most current and compliant product. It is the installer’s responsibility to know the applicable requirements and regulations.”

Words of Advice

Crites offers some advice and key questions to ask when it comes to hose replacement:

  • Is this application above or below the water line?
  • For a fuel hose, what type of fuel is it? Will fuel sit in the hose when not in use, or is this just a fill or tank-venting application?
  • Are there pressure or vacuum requirements for the application?
  • Do I need hose made from FDA-approved materials for potable and food applications?
  • For gasoline applications, are the lines certified to the latest low-permeation requirements?
  • Does the hose need to be Lloyds of London certified?
  • Is this a commercial vessel that can have unique hose requirements for U.S. Coast Guard inspection?
  • For sanitation hose, look at the difficulty in routing the hose and where the hose routing runs, such as under a cabin berth. If it’s difficult, spend the money on an ultra-low odor or odor-free hose. It’s worth the additional cost and your nose will thank you in the long run.
  • For clamps, 316-grade stainless steel is a top choice according to the ABYC standards under the P1 Exhaust Systems specification.

“ABYC says when connecting flexible exhaust hose to another engine component, the hose clamps need to be a minimum of a half-inch in width, made entirely of stainless steel. Clamps that rely solely on spring tension cannot be used,” says Crites. “Materials must also be resistant to saltwater corrosion along with not creating a source for galvanic corrosion. Because of its location on the galvanic table for sea water, 316 stainless clamps are very passive and are an excellent choice for the engine room.”

Clamp and Hose Misconceptions

Misconception #1

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Clamps require regular inspection. Check for signs of corrosion, loose clamps or over tightened clamps that could be cutting into the hose and be a future source of a failure or leak.

Misconception #2

“Any hose clamp will do.” Not true. Most people assume that hose clamps provide a 360-degree seal onto the hose. Some do, but many do not, and because of that, be sure you are utilizing the correct material, size and style of clamp for your application. For example, T-Bolt clamps provide a uniform, even seal and are an excellent choice for high-vibration, large-diameter hose applications like the exhaust system. The common worm-gear style clamp is good for low pressure, general connections, but do not provide 360-degree clamping pressure. Knowing the application and the requirements is key.

Misconception #3

“I checked and there was no leak.” Many times, a single hose clamp may provide a non-leak seal; however, the USCG, ABYC, NMMA, or SAE may have requirements or recommendations for the use of two hose clamps per connection end. In cases where two hose clamps are required, the tightening point on the clamps should be 180 degrees opposite to provide the best sealing method.

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating October 2018
Photo Credit, Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting, Inc.

Planning Your ICW Trip

Take the time to enjoy the road less traveled when planning your ICW trip.

When it comes to cruising the ICW, the oft-quoted phrase “getting there is half the fun” is apropos. From historic towns and peaceful anchorages to big city bustle and vibrant nightlight, there’s so much to see and do along its 1,100-mile length that you’d be hard-pressed not to find something enjoyable for every member of the crew. Here is some helpful information on planning your ICW trip.

However, keep in mind that entering a new anchorage or harbor after a long day on the ICW is exciting, it can also carry a considerable amount of stress, particularly if entered at dusk or in less than ideal weather conditions. There are navigational issues to contend with as well as all the other need-to-know answers once you arrive.

Where’s the best place to anchor or the location of that recommended marina? Where can I get supplies or buy fuel? If tonight is all-you-can-eat ribs night at Hawg Heaven Restaurant, is there a dinghy dock or public shore access nearby so the crew can get their pork on?

Plan, Plan, Plan

The answers and the key to safe and less stressful journey is proper planning for your ICW trip, which starts with the most up-to-date ICW guidebooks and charts for the area and studying them well in advance.

Every extended ICW trip should include a general timeline and list of the desired stops to make along the way, but it’s the day-to-day progress that should actually drive the schedule.

I always plan out the next day’s run prior to heading out, typically the night before, which also gives me a chance to review the latest weather forecasts and their potential effects on my travel plans.

When you plan the next day’s run, comb through the charts and guidebooks, and note things like marina locations, possible anchorages, bridge or lock schedules, and potential ICW trouble spots, such as shoals, sunken vessels, disabled lights, markers, etc. Know these things ahead of time to help generate both peace of mind and a more enjoyable trip. Include contingency plans for anchorages or stopovers in case you are delayed or, in some cases, if you make better than expected time and decide to push on a bit further.

Nightly Routine

Part of my nightly routine is to trace the route for the next day’s run and review notes and comments provided on online apps and programs (see sidebar), such as Garmin’s Active Captain, a popular interactive online cruising guide. Programs such as this can be a very useful tool as long as you take into consideration the double-edged-sword nature of the comments themselves.

The author runs through his itinerary the night before.

Be aware that generic reports of a “great” anchorage with plenty of water or statements like “We ran aground here!” don’t do you much good if the poster fails to include basic info such as their boat’s draft, the state of the tide, etc. Facility reviews should also be viewed with a grain of salt at times: “The dock master hates Algerian Snaggle-tooth Poodles (like our Fluffy) so we’re never coming back and you shouldn’t either!”

In addition to weather, the number of miles I plan for each day depends on a variety of factors, from distances between suitable anchorages to towns or areas I want to visit. Depending on your draft, tide schedules will also play a major role when transiting known shallow spots.

Many ICW cruisers become destination driven and hurry to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. Time and schedules are a major factor here, but my philosophy is that the trip itself is just as important and should, therefore, be as enjoyable as the destination.

Be Reasonable When Planning Your ICW Trip

On my vessel’s average speed of six knots, I typically plan for a run of around 40 statute miles each day. Viewing my trip as a whole, this allows me to progress along the ICW at a reasonable clip but also provides stopover days for rest, sightseeing, weather delays, etc. Although I experience shorter and longer daily runs (60 to 70 miles in some cases), 40 miles is a good average for my boat and one that provides additional time to arrive at my planned destination before dark should unexpected delays crop up.

I don’t like traveling the ICW at night because I often travel solo. I’ve done it before (both as a recreational boater and while in the U.S. Coast Guard), but it adds a whole new level of stress and unnecessarily increases the chances of getting lost, running aground or having an accident.

Take Breaks

Finally, I also try to schedule one layover day for every three to four travel days—more if I’m someplace nice with a lot to see and do. These layover days provide time to catch up on boat chores as well as allow me time to simply decompress and enjoy the journey on my way to the destination.

 

Useful Sites

Active Captain
activecaptain.garmin.com

Dozier’s Waterway Guide
waterwayguide.com

Navionics
navionics.com

Richardson’s Maptech
richardsonscharts.com

Tips for the Intercoastal Waterway

  • Always keep a sharp lookout for “prop inspectors” (floating logs, branches, other debris), particularly when transiting narrow channels and canals. The same goes for other hazards, such as crab pots, which can be found anywhere.
  • Always have your anchor ready to deploy at a moment’s notice.
  • Always monitor VHF channel 16 (general hailing and distress) and if possible, channel 13 (bridge to bridge).
  • When anchoring, the key is to be seen. Use an appropriate anchor light; however, they can be difficult to see, particularly if located atop the mast of a sailboat. I purchased a 12-inch neon light bar from an auto parts store and hang it in the cockpit as well to increase visibility to others.
  • Make marina reservations ahead of time, preferably a day or two in advance if your schedule is accurate enough. At a minimum, I like to call the morning of my projected arrival day to confirm.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating November 2018

Security Tips For Your Boat

Thief-proof your boat with these security tips

While most folks envision Black Beard or Captain Kid when marina Tiki-bar talk turns to piracy, theft and other such acts of waterborne skull-duggery, I think of my childhood mentor Sissaro Phillips and his small marina where the bait shack store had a rash of break-ins. His plan of action? A hand-written, cardboard sign in the window that stated he’d be waiting in the store three nights a week with a shotgun full of rock salt—it was up to the burglars to guess which three nights. While that’s not quite the end-all-be-all of security tips, it sure worked for him.

Boat theft is on the rise and while most of us can’t keep a shotgun-toting vigilante on board, there are simple, common-sense precautions every boat owner can take to reduce the chances of their boat being targeted by thieves.

Think Like a Thief

Take a walk in a thief’s shoes and case your own boat during the day and at night. First off, never leave your keys on board with the vessel unattended or worse yet, leave the engine running while making that quick run to the marina store. If you have to make it accessible for maintenance or repair personnel, provide a temporary access code (for boats with advanced security systems) or a combination padlock.

Is it in a dark, poorly lit section of the dock or marina? If so, you may want to relocate or ask the marina manager about additional lighting. How hard would it be to break into your boat? Can all doors and hatches be secured? Beef things up, and replace screws with through-bolts and metal backing plates where possible, especially where hinge or hasp screws are exposed to the outside.

Can hatch hinge pins be removed from the outside? If so, make sure there’s a sufficient number of dogs to firmly secure it (at least two and preferably four). Sliding glass doors and windows may have a wimpy latch of some sort, but simply placing a wooden dowel in the track channel behind the glass is a great anti-theft measure.

Don’t Forget Insurance

An essential part of your overall anti-boat theft strategy is to make sure you have adequate insurance coverage, but don’t view it as a substitute for proper security measures. Although you might get some new gear out of the deal, when you consider the downsides (higher premiums, increased deductibles, downtime, and aggravating paperwork), it’s best to prevent theft from occurring in the first place. That’s especially sage advice when underwriters may cancel policies with a loss history.

You can implement many common-sense anti-theft precautions at little or no expense. But, installing a new security system is an option that may be less financially painful than you think. This is especially true as many insurance underwriters offer sizable discounts to boaters that have acceptable security systems installed.

Install a Security System

The most simplistic of our security tips? A security system. There is a wide variety of security and monitoring systems on the market today that are both easy to install and relatively inexpensive. For example, the new ZigBoat from Glomex Marine Antennas USA connects to the Internet (via local Wi-Fi or the optional 3G USB dongle) to provide wireless remote monitoring of your boat’s systems as well as security functions.

ZigBoat’s basic kit (priced around $635) consists of a core module (gateway), a porthole/door sensor, a battery voltage sensor, a high-water sensor, and batteries for each. The gateway gathers and processes information from each of the sensors and sends a notification to your smartphone or tablet if something is awry. Installation is simple. Power to the gateway is provided by a DC to DC converter wired into your boat’s 12 or 24 VDC system. Place the gateway in a central location to “see” all the sensors installed. The sensors mount with pressure-tape, adhesive or screws at their designated location, be it at the battery bank, bilge, windows, or doors.

The sensors to alarm you that thieves may be on board are the porthole/door sensor includes a magnet that triggers the alarm when separated from the sensor. Use the included double-stick tape to mount the sensor on the door/porthole frame and the magnet directly opposite on the door/porthole frame that opens. The gap between them should not exceed five millimeters when closed.

Install the motion sensor(screws included) in a location with a clear view of the area you want to monitor, such in the upper corner of the salon. The sensor detects movements up to 18 feet.

App-titude

Download the ZigBoat app and power up the gateway. The gateway creates its own network access point so your smartphone or tablet can connect to the system. Through the app, add the gateway to the list of devices.

After the sensor is mounted, insert the batteries. It will search for the ZigBoat network and join in. Add sensors to the app’s device list by entering its serial number. Each device has its own owner’s manual that provides detail of its connection, placement and safety features.

Most security systems have the ability to add a number of additional sensors to meet specific security or system monitoring needs. Options include video surveillance, smoke alarms, heat alarms, pressure mat sensors, GPS tracking, geofencing, and more. Whether you own a 17-foot flats boat or an 85-foot cruiser, gain peace of mind by keeping your boat secure.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating October 2018

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