Vinyl Boat Wraps

Protect your boat’s hull in a variety of colors and designs with the use of creative vinyl boat wraps.

When a boat hull is created in a mold, gelcoat is the outer product that goes in first followed by the fiberglass layers. When out of the mold, it’s the gelcoat that provides a boat with its smooth, glossy finish (and color, if added) and seals the fiberglass layers beneath it from moisture and hydrolysis as well as from ultraviolet (UV) degradation. Although gelcoat is a strong material, over time it will oxidize and become porous unless continuously maintained and protected.

Protect it

A good wax has a UV protectant within its formula that acts as a sunscreen to protect the gelcoat, and if the boat is cleaned after use and kept under a cover on a hoist or in a boathouse, gelcoat can last a long time. But as boats bake in the sun and sit in the water and are subject to wear and tear like rafting up, bumping into the dock or a long day out fishing, gelcoat can easily fade, stain and lose its luster.

To extend the life of gelcoat and still provide that high-gloss shine, a protective coating such as paint is applied, but there’s another alternative that has proven its worth over the last few years—vinyl boat wrap.

Wrap it Up

Able to protect gelcoat and paint, vinyl wrap offers a versatile solution that has a number of benefits. Technology in a protective film has improved dramatically over the last 10 years and is now used in different applications from windows to electronics to an airplane and boat hulls. Cast film used for wraps is typically 3.5-mil thick and is made of thermoplastics, aluminum, and paint—a tough layer that inherently has UV and scratch protection.

“The material comes with a protective clear coating that protects it against abrasions, scratching and fading of the material,” says Wade Davis, owner, and president of Image Graphics 2000. “It usually will last up to five to seven years depending on the exposure it gets from the sun. There are alternatives on the protective laminate that can be used that are thicker and more abrasion resistant.”

Although gelcoat can last much longer, when it’s damaged, repairs can be costly and time-consuming, whereas a boat wrap can be repaired relatively quickly with just a small area cut out and patch applied to make it look as good as new.

“I’ve developed a technique of putting a patch in that is hard to distinguish to the unknowing eye,” says Burl Cole, owner of Boatwraps.com, Vehiclewarps1.com, Aviationwraps.com, and Boatwraps-Florida.com and a master installer for more than 15 years. “It’s hard to repair paint with matching color and it takes a highly-trained eye [to match] with fading.” Cole keeps the vinyl remnants from each wrap for repairs because it comes from a certain lot number.

“Some of the disadvantages are that it is not a hard shell surface like paint or gel coat,” says Davis. “You have to be a bit more careful around docks, other boats or toys.” Both Davis and Cole advise that fenders have cloth covers because the vinyl-on-vinyl friction will chafe the wrap.

Why Wrap?

Updating the boat’s hull happens for a number of reasons; change of the color scheme is the most prominent.

“Sometimes, people get a smoking deal on a boat but they don’t like the color, so this is a heck of a way to go ahead and change it to what they like,” says Cole. “They can choose some funky color or do an aquatic or marine theme and personalize it. And then, whenever they sell it, they pull it off and it’s back to the OEM (original equipment manufacturer).”

Another determining factor for using a vinyl wrap is cost. With the number of options in color and custom-designed graphics, the owner needs to compare similar style choices to determine whether paint or vinyl wrap is the less expensive choice. In most cases, vinyl wrap comes in about a third of the cost of a custom airbrush or gelcoat repaint, depending on the size of the boat. On top of that, “A digital wrap for production and installation is a three-day process: one day to print, one day to cure and laminate the material with the clear overlam and one day to install,” says Davis. “The color match or to change colors is a one-day process.”

“Preparation is key to this whole business, just like anything else—getting everything together before you start,” says Cole. “If there are scratches or divots, we’ll put in a Bondo filler or epoxy to smooth it out and feather it so you can’t tell anything was there after the wrap is put on.” Vinyl is formulated to stick on enamel paints, like Awlgrip, and adheres to gelcoat really well.

For the longest time

“It is not necessary to paint or re-gelcoat the sides of a boat for the application of the wrap film as long as the surface is in good shape,” adds Davis. “If there is oxidation present, depending on the severity, it should be removed by either wet sanding or buffing so the wrap film adheres to a clean slick surface. Also, if there are any coatings present like Teflon waxes or ceramic, that would have to be removed as well.”

The 3M brand of vinyl has improved to the point where they now offer a one-year warranty (above the waterline). Cole notes that 3M can grip and bond as soon as pressure is applied and the boat is ready to launch right after application. Vinyl wrap also maintains the boats resale value by protecting the paint or gelcoat and is easily removed when it’s time to sell the boat. On the maintenance side, “One of the [nice] things about vinyl is that you don’t have to wax this stuff,” says Cole. “You just wash it and then rinse it off or just dry it off with a chamois, and that’s it!”

Be Assured

Vinyl wraps have made their way onto boat hulls from 10 to 200-plus feet, and there are a number of companies around the world that provide the service. Before you commit, be comfortable with the company’s previous work, how secure they apply the wrap (do they use an adhesive primer in areas where water pressure is typically high, such as the bow?) and if a warranty is included. Wraps are a versatile choice that protect and maintain the value of your boat’s hull.

boatwraps-florida.com

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating September 2018

How to Install a Transom Shower on Your Boat

Install a transom shower to rinse away the sand, cool off from the hot sun and wash away the salt.

Boating in and of itself is a great time, but everyone knows the fun really begins after arriving at that favorite anchorage. The kids want to go kayaking, the dog wants to swim and hairy Uncle Joe visiting from Jersey wants to go snorkeling (while hopefully avoiding last year’s backward thong fiasco).The downside to all this fun is the salt, sand, and muck tracked on board at the end of the day, that is, unless you have a transom shower.

But if you don’t have one, installing a transom shower is a project that’s within the ability of the average DIYer. Here’s a look at what’s involved and the various options available.

Transom showers can use saltwater or plumb directly into an existing freshwater system as well as provide hot and cold water. Although you can cobble a system together, the simplest way to install a transom shower is by purchasing a kit. Kit parts may vary slightly but at a minimum will contain a recessed enclosure, a showerhead or nozzle (fitted with a length of retractable hose), and valves for hot and cold water control.

The Setup

The installation itself is pretty straightforward; however, as with any project, you’ll want to thoroughly plan out and visualize it prior to beginning. Start by gathering a few basic tools, such as a tape measure, pencil, drill, bits, jigsaw, wrenches, Channellock pliers, screwdrivers, and a hose cutter or sharp knife. As for parts, you’ll need two barbed hose “T” fittings, appropriate lengths of hot and cold water hose (assuming a hot and cold shower installation), stainless steel hose clamps and a tube of marine-grade adhesive sealant such as 3M 5200.

Location, Location

The first decision is to select a location for the shower. Look for a flat surface near the swim platform, transom or cockpit, one with enough depth behind it to accept the shower enclosure and enough room in front to allow the shower enclosure’s lid (if so equipped) to swing open. Double check to make sure you won’t be cutting or drilling into anything unexpected (wiring, hoses, rod holder, etc.).

Choose a location that allows the shower head to reach a convenient height for ease of use (you can verify this by using a piece of line cut the same length as the shower hose), but avoid areas above electrical equipment or other such items that could be damaged by water leaks or drips should they occur. Accessibility to the area (in order to run the hoses) is another consideration.

Mounting

Most shower kits include a template to assist with cutting the hole. You can also make your own by tracing the outline of the enclosure and marking the location of the mounting holes to assist with drilling. Place the template where you want to mount the enclosure, tape it in place and then cut the hole. When cutting and mounting in solid fiberglass, simply apply a bead of sealant around the inside flange of the enclosure to seal out water. If the area is of cored construction (balsa, plywood, etc.), you also want to seal the edges of the hole (thickened epoxy works well) to prevent water intrusion into the coring and the possibility of rot or other core related issues in the future.

Once the hole is cut, dry fit the enclosure, drill the mounting holes and install the mounting hardware to ensure everything fits properly. If adequate access exists behind the enclosure, you can mount it now and connect the water system hoses afterward. If not, you’ll need to plumb the shower prior to mounting.

For our purposes, let’s assume you have plenty of access and want to mount the enclosure first. Start by applying a liberal bead of caulk along the mounting flange. Carefully install the enclosure and tighten the mounting hardware until caulk begins to ooze out, then stop. Most folks want to crank down until whatever they are mounting is tight, but this approach squeezes out most (if not all) of the caulk. A better approach is to snug it up and let the caulk cure. This forms a gasket and provides a better seal.

As a final touch, remove the mounting bolts or screws one at a time and coat the threads liberally with sealant prior to that final tightening.

Plumbing

Once the enclosure is mounted and the shower assembled (normally involves simply connecting the shower head to the hose, which is then screwed into the enclosure), locate the nearest access to the vessel’s hot and cold water system, allowing the shortest, straightest run possible to the new shower.

Once you’ve located a promising spot, turn off and secure power to the water pressure pump. Next, cut the hoses and install the “T” fittings (securing each with stainless steel clamps). Then run the respective hoses back to the shower and support each hose with wire ties and mounts or cushioned stainless-steel clamps every 12 to 16 inches or so. Once everything is connected, power up the water pressure pump and inspect the system for leaks. Now you’re ready to hose down the kids, dog and Uncle Joe with your new transom shower.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating August 2018

Maintenance Check

Time for a maintenance check. Don’t skip these oft-forgotten items

There’s a lot of terrestrial-based wisdom that just doesn’t ring true when it comes to boats. “Out of sight, out of mind,” “What you don’t know can’t hurt you” and “Let sleeping dogs lie” are all perfect examples of advice not to heed when planning your boat’s maintenance. In an effort to protect you from old wives and their tales, here are three often neglected items that can ruin your boating day quicker than stepping on a crack can cause you to cry over spilled milk. Just do a maintenance check.

Maintenance Check #1: Anchor rode and connections

No matter what you enjoy doing on the water, there’s one need all boaters have in common: the ability to anchor safely and securely. Unfortunately, the other thing they often have in common is poorly maintained or unserviceable ground tackle.

While the anchor typically enjoys a place of prominence at the bow, the anchor rode is relegated to the dark, dank recesses of the anchor locker. In a nutshell, its purpose is to connect the boat to the anchor.

Most boats use a combination rode, which is simply a rope rode with a length of chain between it and the anchor. The chain protects the rope portion of the rode from chafe along rough seabeds and adds weight that increases horizontal pull and helps the anchor remain set. Three-strand nylon is most commonly used for anchor rode. It’s strong, provides more elasticity than a braided line (which absorb the sudden loads and jerks of a bouncing boat), is more easily spliced, and is less expensive.

Your anchoring system is only as strong as its weakest component, which includes not only the rode, but also shackles, splices, chains, mooring bitts, cleats, and, in short, any gear used to secure your boat while at anchor. Proper maintenance includes inspection of these items as well as pulling the rode from the anchor locker and inspecting it at least annually. Check rope rodes for wear, hard spots, cut strands, aging, discoloration, etc. Chafe is rope’s worst enemy, so you’ll also want to inspect hawseholes, chocks, cleats, and windlasses for burrs, sharp edges or anything else that can cause rope damage.

Maintenance Check #2: Stuffing box

Stuffing boxes (aka packing glands) are victims of their own reliability. They carry on so well with such little attention that many boat owners don’t realize they need regularly scheduled maintenance.

The purpose of the stuffing box is to allow the propeller shaft to exit the hull while keeping water out. The shaft is sealed by compressing packing material against it, most often by using a hollow nut that screws onto the inboard side of the shaft tube or a tightening arrangement that uses a plate secured by nuts and studs on either side of the shaft. The more you tighten either type of gland, the more the packing material gets compressed against the shaft. Most packing consists of a square plaited material and comes either as traditional greased (or waxed) flax or a more modern version impregnated with Teflon.

Water helps lubricate the packing material, so it’s okay for a stuffing box to leak a few drips (three to four per minute) while the vessel is underway. More than that amount (say 10 drops per minute) or any drips while the shaft isn’t turning indicate the need for maintenance. A stuffing box leak can cause everything from corrosion (the spinning shaft slings excess water all over the engine compartment) to sinkings, particularly if the boat is left unattended in the water for long periods of time.

Maintenance Check #3: Packing Material

Packing material hardens over time (as the lubricant dries out) and gets worn away by shaft rotation, allowing water to pass and enter the vessel. When this happens, most boaters simply tighten the packing gland to compress the packing material and stop or reduce the leak. This works to a point; however, as the packing gets smaller, it also gets harder. Keep compressing it, and it will eventually score the propeller shaft, which will then have to be replaced before the stuffing box will seal properly.

The simplest answer here is to replace the packing material on a regular basis. This bit of routine maintenance should only take about 30 minutes and normally costs less for materials than you’d spend on a mocha-frappu-latte-whatever and a free-range muffin. How often you repack typically depends on the number of hours your boat is used. As the vessel has to be hauled, many owners simply repack annually as part of their haul-out or spring commissioning routine.

Maintenance Check #4: Fuel tank fill hose

You’d be hard-pressed to come up with a more out-of-sight, out-of-mind item than your fuel tank fill hose. Fill hoses are attached to the underside of the fuel fill fitting, connecting it to your fuel tank.

All hose has a limited lifespan, and fuel fill hose is no exception. Recommended replacement timeframes will vary between fuel hose manufacturers, but some call for replacement as often as every five years. The American Boat and Yacht Council standards also call for flexible fuel fill hose to be double clamped at each end with marine-grade stainless steel (if there is sufficient hose barb to allow it) as well as marked with the manufacturer’s name or trademark, year of manufacture and application on the outermost cover.

Access and inspect fuel tank fill hoses regularly for leaks and deterioration as part of your vessel’s maintenance program. Check that each end of the hose is double clamped and that the clamps are tight and free from corrosion. Replace older hose (regardless of appearance) as per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Story and photos by Frank Lanier, Southern Boating September 2018

Forget a makeover. Resurface!

Instead of a complete facelift, save yourself a bundle and resurface.

Compared to home interior design trends, boat and yacht owners can get by with the same interior design scheme for quite a while. Sometimes, eight years or more. If your fabrics are thread-bare, carpets are soiled and countertops are chipped, you can give your boat a mini makeover with just a simple resurface.

It may only involve replacing the surface coverings rather than a complete overhaul, which will save you a heap of money that’s better suited for fuel to cruise and food and beverages to keep the crew fed. And if you’re handy with tools, you can save even more money by doing some of the work yourself. Here are a few tips to freshen up your boat’s floors, counters and fabrics.

Counter intelligence

Were your boat’s old laminate countertops were used as a cutting board? Are they past the point of their reasonable usefulness? Good news– the replacement options are unlimited. One blog suggests painting old laminae to resurface. No replacement needed.

There are even kits available that offer an end result similar to the look of granite but without the expense and weight. There are several downsides, however, to “repainting” countertop surfaces: extensive project preparation, product’s toxic smell, and fumes, length of time to cure, unsatisfactory end result or a satisfactory one that doesn’t last.

If countertop replacement is in your makeover budget but granite or marble is not, a laminate is a great option. Think Formica. Don’t let the company’s longevity fool you. Their product offerings come in a myriad of colors and patterns, finishes, solid surfacing, and decorative edging.

The company has even introduced Formica Writable Surfaces, a product line that encourages people to write on it. Forget about jotting down a reminder to the captain or crew—write it on the countertop! If you run out of paper for the kiddos to draw pictures while you’re cruising, set them up at the counter with a box of erasable markers or chalk and they’ll stay busy for hours. Formica Writable Surfaces can be used for countertops, cupboards, table tops, cabinets, walls. Really, just about anywhere. The surface is durable and impact and wear-resistant, easy to clean, and comes in two Chalkable surfaces and six ColorBook surfaces. formica.com

Air and sea

If you’re one of the many yacht owners who also own an aircraft and both could use some TLC, Scott Group Studio recently released their new luxury carpet collection inspired by cultural travel and movement, a fitting theme for both aviation and yachting. The entire collection is crafted in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Produced with a silk and wool blend that is customizable to interior cabin furnishings, each design reflects patterns one would see when traveling the world: ocean currents, terraced landscapes, glacial cracks, sand dunes and savannahs, and ancient drawings on rocks. Scott Group Studio will also make the collection available to residential design, so whether you’re in the air, at sea or on terra firma, you’ll also be at home. scottgroupstudio.com

Foot-worthy floors

There’s nothing like stepping on board a brand-new boat. Particularly, if the flooring is brand-new too. But if your boat’s floors are dingy or dated, replace them with the same products used by boat builders the likes of Grady-White, Tiara, Sea Ray, Chaparral, Bennington, Chris-Craft, and others.

For some, the word “vinyl” brings to mind outdated flooring, yellowed with age and few color options. But vinyl flooring has changed significantly and is one of the hottest trends in home and commercial construction and remodeling. Indeed, today’s choices run the gamut of designs that mimic natural materials, such as wood planks and stone surfaces, in an array of colors and textured appearances. Furthermore, advancements in manufacturing have made vinyl flooring not only a durable choice for boats but also one that enables owners to customize according to décor choices.

“What changed from traditional vinyl is the woven technology,” says Warren McCrickard, former vice president of corporate sales for Infinity Woven Products, a manufacturer of luxury woven vinyl (LWV) flooring. “Infinity is actually a vertically integrated product. We control the manufacturing process from raw to finished and ‘bake’ UV protection, antimicrobial, and stain resistance into the extruded yarn or coating of fibers. The woven technology gives all the benefits and texture, and we can offer a complete line of ornate designs and vibrant colors. They’re very durable and high-performing, but also are beautiful.”

According to user comments, LWV is also very comfortable underfoot, a breeze to clean and easy to install for do-it-yourselfers. Application options include gluing the product flat or binding the edges to lay loose or to be snap down. The flooring comes in 8’6″ and 10′ widths but can be easily seamed for larger floor dimensions. infinitylwv.com

Just sleep on it

A good night’s sleep can make a big difference when you’re cruising or fishing. Like your mattress at home, there are signs the one on your boat needs to be replaced. If you don’t feel rested, you wake up stiff or sore, or there’s a noticeable sag, it’s time. If your mattress is in good shape, new linens and pillows can make a world of difference.

Another attractive and easy décor addition to your stateroom? An attractive custom upholstered headboard. Austin Burkett, marine sales manager for Schrader Mattress, recommends headboards for boats up to 40-feet LOA use marine-grade fabric only. Today, marine-grade fabrics, such as Sunbrella, come in a wide variety of colors, prints, and patterns. For boats that have a continuous air conditioning system, Burkett says most any fabric will work. “We use Ultraleather and other brands of faux leathers as well as vinyls,” he says. schraderbeds.com

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating September 2018

Tilt and Trim Troubleshooting

Tilt and Trim troubles?

Here are some top tips for tilt and trim troubleshooting.

The time you most appreciate your motor’s tilt and trim feature is when it fails.

At that point, all phases of boat operation have degraded. You can’t trim your motor for better fuel economy or raise it to avoid damage when trailering. Here are some tips for tilt and trim troubleshooting.

The tilt and trim unit allows you to optimize the performance of your boat by adjusting the angle of the engine, which, in turn, adjusts the boat’s running surface. The ability to tilt and trim your engine improves boat performance under a wide variety of conditions from smoothing out a rough ride in heavy seas to reducing draft in shallower waters. While this article is geared toward the tilt and trim system for outboard engines, much of the information provided is pertinent when troubleshooting stern drives.

There are two main types of tilt and trim systems found aboard recreational boats. Older systems often used an electric tilt motor coupled with a mechanical lifting device, such as a worm gear. The most common system in use today is the electric/hydraulic power tilt and trim system. It consists of three primary components: a 12-volt electric motor, a small hydraulic pump, and a reservoir/assembly unit. The electric motor operates the hydraulic pump which forces the fluid to the cylinders or rams that move the motor up or down to trim during operation and for trailering.

Tilt and Trim Troubleshooting Basics

If your tilt and trim unit fails to operate, the following steps should help you identify the problem or at least point you in the right direction. Although these tips are fairly generic in nature, you should be able to apply them to most any tilt/ trim system.

The first step is to determine whether the problem lies with the electric tilt/trim motor or the hydraulic pump assembly. Here are a couple of simple ways to isolate the problem.

Electrical or tilt/trim motor issues

If you try to raise or lower the engine and nothing happens, first check to make sure that the battery is charged and that the battery switch is in the “on” position.

Next, listen for the solenoid/start relay while operating the control (tilt) switch up or down. If you hear nothing, the problem will typically be with the tilt switch, solenoid, or with the wires or connections between the two. If you hear a slight clicking noise while pressing the tilt switch, then you have power from the control switch to the solenoid or relay. The next step is to check the operation of the power tilt and trim motor itself.

All tilt/trim systems use a 12-volt DC reversing-type motor that has one green wire and one blue power wire. If you’re dealing with an older system, the motor may also have a third, black wire, which is used to provide ground to motors that don’t receive it through their casing.

Applying power to the blue wire raises the engine while energizing the green wire lowers it. An easy way to remember this is the phrase: blue sky, green grass (as in the blue wire raises the engine towards the sky; the green wire lowers it toward the ground).

Testing, Testing

To test the motor, the first step is to remove the power to it by disconnecting the blue and green wires. Remove the quick-disconnect plug between the motor and solenoid (if provided) or detach the two wires where they connect to the solenoid or relay. Once disconnected, use a jumper wire to apply 12 volts DC directly to the appropriate wire. But if the engine is in the down position, energize the blue wire (which should raise it). If the engine is in the raised position, connect the jumper to the green wire to lower it.

And if the motor fails to operate with power applied directly to the blue or green wire, the issue lies with the motor. If the motor operates, then the problem is a lack of power to the motor (faulty solenoid or relay, bad connections, etc.). Failed solenoids, relays and corrosion (at connections, relay sockets, quick-disconnect plugs, etc.) are some of the most common problems associated with tilt and trim system failure.

Hydraulic pump assembly problems

If the tilt and trim motor works fine but the engine won’t raise or lower, slips down when in the raised position or won’t stay trimmed, chances are that the problem is with the hydraulic pump or valve body assembly. Start by checking the hydraulic fluid reservoir level. If the level is adequate, the problem is most likely with the hydraulic pump. A low fluid level indicates a possible leak at the seals as does visual fluid around the piston assembly. At this point, repairs typically involve removal and rebuilding the pump or replacing it at a qualified repair facility.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating July 2018

How to Install Rod Holders

Most boat owners have experienced moments when that one missing thing on board would help make boating easier. Take, for instance, an extra rod holder in the gunwale. wouldn’t that be nice? That’s why you should learn how to install rod holders.

It could improve the chance of landing a trophy, provide a place to insert a pole to tie up a canopy on a hot, sunny day, or it’s a convenient place to attach a barbecue. Many boats are outfitted with a couple of rod holders in the gunwale at the boat’s stern, but unless your boat is already rigged for tournament fishing with rocket launchers, outriggers and additional rod holders installed at the factory, short of the pain of drilling holes in your boat, to install rod holders for a multitude of functions is relatively simple and straightforward.

Besides the rod holders used for storage or those that allow easy access to a variety of rods set up for particular fish or techniques, having a few along the rail offers more options for the style of fishing preferred on any given day. There are a number of rod holders available with a variety of purposes, such as fixed, removable and adjustable. It is vital to know size and type when you install rod holders.

Each has three main mounting systems: side, clamp-on, and flush. They also are made from various materials such as nylon, fiberglass, and aluminum, but stainless steel is recommended due to its durability and rigidity for handling rough water. It’s also recommended to use stainless steel hardware no matter which material you choose for the holder. So, let’s install a flush-mount rod holder in the gunwale.

Select the Appropriate Holder

Flush mount receptacles generally are available in three fixed angles: 0, 15 and 30 degrees. For your barbecue or if setting up a canopy (with the use of poles), the 0-degree, straight angle holder most likely will be the choice. For kite fishing, 15-degree holders are typically used and are set at 90 degrees to the gunwale with three or four holders required for the kite and the lines.

In that setup, having the holders within arm’s reach is advisable, but another option is to use a trident holder that will convert one receptacle into three. When trolling, 15-and 30-degree holders are used with the angle to the gunwale set between 22.5 and 45 degrees.

Choose Placement Wisely

Carefully analyze where you want to install rod holders before making any cuts in your boat. Take into account how many you plan to install so they are mounted where you want and within reach. Be aware of the angle to the gunwale as you don’t want rods to interfere with each other. As the saying goes, “Measure twice, cut once.” Working with fiberglass and patching a big hole is a different kind of beast.

Installation

Check the proposed location for the rod holder and make adjustments for wiring, plumbing, and other equipment. When the exact location is decided, tape the area. This helps avoid splintering or cracking the surrounding gelcoat. If taped, be sure to mark the hole’s center on the tape. Some holders will include a template to make the cut outline.

Ensure your hole saw matches the diameter of the rod holder. For a straight, zero-degree holder, the cut is a basic straight-in circle. But for the angled holders, you will cut a somewhat elongated hole. Free cutting the hole is fine, but the hole saw is round, so you will need extra cuts to accept the angle of the receptacle.

Try these tips for simpler and more accurate cuts when you install rod holders:

Take the holder, flip it upside down and hold it next to the marked spot matching the angle you want the holder to face, and use it to free guide the drill as you saw the hole; or
Take a small piece of wood (an inch or so thick), use the process just mentioned and cut a hole that matches the angle of the holder. Test the cut by inserting the holder in the piece of wood and make sure it mounts flush. (This will guide the saw more accurately as you cut the gunwale.) Clamp the piece of wood over the marked spot and make the cut.
If you’re satisfied with the cut, and the holder mounts flush in the gunwale and the angle of the holder to the gunwale fits, mark the screw holes by drilling pilot holes. This will depend on the location, a 30-degree holder may not fit at a 90-degree angle.
Remove the holder and finish drilling the screw holes.
Remove the tape and use sandpaper or a Dremel with a burring bit to smooth the edges and prevent cracking. Include a gasket for the receptacle’s flange and, if feasible, include a backing plate to attach the flange bolts, and recheck the holder’s alignment in the hole.
Once you’re sure it fits properly, remove the holder. Apply a bead of adhesive sealant around the main cut. Also, seal the screw holes (especially if you’re not using a backing plate). This ensures a permanent, watertight seal. Replace the holder and tighten everything in place. You now have a new flush-mount rod holder along with another chance to stock the fridge with a fresh catch.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating June 2018

Trailering Don’ts

There are a few constant trailering do’s. But there are far more trailering don’ts.

Trailering a boat is more popular than ever. But there are some things to be concerned with if towing a trailer. Of course, number one is safety. Additionally, that means not just the trailer, boat, and vehicle, but those around you.

Stay safe out there!

A few amusing trailering don’ts:

From the Abbotsford Police Department:

Balanced on pallets, straps held together with duct tape, no brakes, homemade third axle. Just a few of the many things wrong here.

From Boats.com

Oh, the irony! “I was actually sitting on my front porch, working on the list of five boat-trailering tips to offer you in this column, when the sound of aluminum clattering in pavement caused me to look down the block.”

From Nautic Expo

So you’ve run aground, now what?

How to re-float your boat after going aground.

Most boaters have heard the saying: “You’ve either already gone aground or will go aground!” If you’re in the second category, knowing what to do immediately after grounding can make the difference between an embarrassing discussion at the yacht club Tiki bar and a harrowing tale on par with the Poseidon Adventure. While every grounding will have its own nuances to deal with, the following tips should help you re-float your boat in most any situation.

Have a grounding action plan in place

Trying to decide what to do after grounded wastes time, which may be running out if the tide is falling or if other circumstances (weather, waves, etc.) can worsen your situation. Quick, decisive action may save the day with only a few scratches to your hull and ego. When developing your plan, consider the extra items you may need (easily portable anchor and rode, etc.) based on the type of boat you have. A full keel sailboat,
for example, is less susceptible to damage than a powerboat featuring props and rudders extending below the hull. If your boat is more likely to experience damage when grounding— or while trying to unground it—your plan needs to take that into consideration.

Grounding checklist

1. Check for damage. The first thing to do after grounding is to place the engine in neutral—or drop all sails—and inspect the bilges to see if your boat is taking on water. Next, try to determine if you’ve sustained damage to the hull or running gear, paying particular attention to stuffing boxes, thru-hulls, etc. Even if there’s no apparent damage, monitor the bilges once ungrounded and while underway or back at the dock.

2. Check bottom type. Knowing what you’ve grounded on (rock, soft mud, hard sand, coral, etc.) will help determine the best course of action to free yourself. If you’re not sure, bottom information can be found on your charts or possibly determined by scooping up a sample with your anchor.

3. Verify the tide. Knowing the state of the tide is crucial after grounding. A soft grounding during a rising tide may mean the best option is to simply wait. Grounding on a falling tide means you’ll have less time to extricate yourself before the water level drops.

4. Locate deeper water. Don’t automatically assume deeper water is behind you. If you’ve grounded on a shoal or reef, the closest deep water may lie in front of you. In
some areas, you can read water depth by color, but in less clear waters, quickly take soundings around the boat using a lead line or maybe a long boat hook. You may also be able to use your dinghy to survey the water around your boat; outfitting it with a fixed or handheld depth sounder will be a big help.

Float your boat

When considering what action to take after grounding, keep the sage advice of ol’ Hippocrates in mind: “First, do no harm.” For a hard grounding where you’ve struck a reef or rocky bottom and sustained significant damage, staying put until professional help arrives is typically the best approach as freeing a damaged boat could easily result in sinking once deeper water is reached. For soft groundings with little or no damage, the following tactics may help get you afloat.

Power off

Attempting to power off is probably the first reaction after grounding. If you gently slid up onto a shoal bow first, you may be able to power off in reverse (back the way you came) until you reach deeper water. Moving passengers from side to side or swinging the rudder from port to starboard while backing down may roll your boat enough to break free. Boats with twin engines can also alternate bursts of throttle from port to starboard engines while reversing to amplify this side-to-side motion.

Always check your boat’s orientation before trying to back off

It could have spun around after hitting bottom, or, due to the effects of wind and tide, your stern may be angled toward shallow water instead. If you struck the shoal at an angle, you may be able to power off by turning the rudder hard toward deeper water and throttling up in an effort to spin the bow back toward it. Twin engine boats can try to spin the bow by placing the engine closest to deeper water into reverse and the other in forward (once you’re sure your props are clear of the bottom).

If your running gear extends below the keel or could be touching the bottom in any of the above situations, you’ll want to try other tactics to minimize damage. Depending on wind speed and direction, sailboats may be able to heel the boat over by hoisting the main. Heeling reduces draft and breaks the suction, which, when combined with the thrust of the engine, may do the trick.

Drop some pounds

If it’s safe, loading people or heavier items into the dinghy can often reduce your draft enough to free your boat. Other options include emptying water
tanks or using your dinghy to ferry items ashore. Sometimes simply launching the dinghy can make the difference.

How about a lift?

You may be able to use wave action or the wake from a passing boat to lift your boat clear enough to power into deeper water. The trick is timing bursts of
the throttle in the right direction as the boat lifts clear of the bottom. For this to work, you have to know where deeper water is and your running gear has to be clear of the
bottom. This method should not be used if you are aground on a hard or rocky bottom.

Consider kedging

This involves setting an anchor in deeper water and then trying to winch the boat free, typically in conjunction with thrust from the engine. It’s easier with smaller boats—where you can easily throw a small anchor toward deeper water—but is more difficult for larger vessels with a heavier ground tackle. In this case, the safest deployment method is often using the dinghy to ferry out the anchor.

Whatever your action plan, personnel and vessel safety should be paramount. If there are extenuating circumstances (deteriorating weather, the threat of sinking, etc.) don’t hesitate to call for professional help from a commercial towing company or to notify the U.S. Coast Guard.

Tidal and Current Flow Information

Tidal and current flow information is broadcast on VHF weather channels and is also readily available on most modern chart plotters. Observing current flow and tide lines
ashore or on a fixed navigational aid are also good ways to check the local state of the tide. There are also apps aplenty for tablets and smartphones.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating April 2018

In Need of a Tow?

Check out the Top Twelve Towing Tips for Boaters

Inspect Your EPIRB or PLB

The only thing worse than not having crucial safety gear on board is to have it fail when needed. So inspect your EPIRB and PLB.

Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs) and Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) are expected to work flawlessly in an emergency every time despite minimal maintenance and constant exposure to the harsh marine environment. But! You need to inspect your EPIRB and/or PLB will keep it ready, willing and able.

The primary purpose of any emergency signaling device is pinpointing your location to ensure rescue within the “golden day,” that first 24 hours following an emergency during which the majority of survivors can (statistically anyway) be saved—in essence, taking the “search” out of a search and rescue mission. An EPIRB or PLB goes a long way to accomplish that goal.

When activated, emergency beacons transmit a coded message on the 406 MHz distress frequency, which is then relayed via the Cospas-Sarsat global satellite system and earth stations to the nearest rescue coordination center. Units featuring built-in GPS can provide a location accuracy of 150 feet or less.

EPIRB vs PLB

The popularity of PLBs has soared in recent years due to their portability and lower costs, so why not just skip an EPIRB altogether and go with something you can wear? Although PLBs and EPIRBs work in exactly the same manner, there are a number of differences between them beyond size.

While PLBs transmit a distress signal for a minimum of 24 hours, transmit time for an EPIRB is double that (a minimum of 48 hours). Unlike a PLB, EPIRBs can also configure to automatically deploy and activate in the event of an emergency. Category I EPIRBs are designed to float free from a sinking vessel and turn on automatically when it comes into contact with water, while a Category II rating denotes those that are manually activated and deployed.

Unlike a PLB, which is registered to a person, an EPIRB is registered to a specific vessel, which means you can’t legally take it with you to use onboard another vessel.

Testing and maintenance

A good rule of thumb: inspect your EPIRB or PLB once a month. Experts agree that EPIRBs and PLBs should be inspected monthly or prior to an extended cruise. When inspecting and conducting any test, exercise extreme caution to avoid inadvertent activation and generation of a false distress alert.

Start by inspecting the exterior of the beacon thoroughly for any physical damage, such as corrosion, cracking, and water ingress. For EPIRBs, you’ll also want to inspect the mounting bracket or housing. EPIRBs float free when released, so they should be stowed in an unobstructed location. Such installations will also have a Hydrostatic Release Unit (HRU) designed to sense water pressure if a vessel sinks, releasing the mount and allowing the EPIRB to float to the surface. HRUs expire every two years, so note the expiration date during your inspection.

Next up is checking the expiration date of the battery. This will be shown on the beacon manufacturer’s label or a separate sticker. Battery life for most units is five years, although some newer models exceed that. Replace the battery if the beacon has been activated. It must also be replaced on or before the label’s expiration date.

Check the registration with NOAA. This one is expired!

Verify the presence of a current NOAA registration sticker. Federal law requires all U.S.-coded EPIRBs and PLBs to be registered with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). This registration provides search and rescue organizations emergency contact information so that if your beacon is activated, they’ll know who they’re looking for. It also gives them someone to call and verify that it’s an actual emergency, rather than a false alarm. This means you’ll need to update your registration if any of the information changes. Beacon registration or updates are easily done online at sarsat.noaa.gov/beacon.html.

Self Test

Once the physical inspection is complete, conduct a self-test by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Following these instructions is crucial to ensure your beacon is working properly and to prevent accidental activation.

When conducting a 406 MHz beacon self-test, the EPIRB or PLB is allowed to radiate a single burst that’s specially coded so that it is ignored by the COSPAS-SARSAT system. Most EPIRBs will have a visible test switch, one that’s spring loaded so that it can’t be left on inadvertently and drain the battery. Depending on the unit, a combination of beeps and light or strobe flashes will indicate test circuits are operating properly. Many newer EPIRBs and PLBs will display tests and results via an integral display.

If you accidentally activate your EPIRP or PLB, turn the unit off and cancel the false alert by calling the nearest U.S. Coast Guard Station. They, in turn, will contact the nearest Rescue Coordination Center to cancel the alert. As part of your boating season startup, inspect your EPIRB and PLB can be a lifesaver.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating May 2018

More Safety Gear

Lose Onboard Weight

Once your boat is back in the water, don’t undo the good your yard has done by carrying around unnecessary weight in your storage compartments. Do some spring cleaning, empty out the closets and compartments, and get lose onboard weight.

Here’s the skinny on tips to help both your wallet and boat performance. Remember the slogan: Lighter boat = fatter wallet.

What’s the big deal over a few extra pounds? Your body can’t function at peak efficiency when lugging around a keg instead of six-pack abs, and your boat is no different. While the effects of excess weight are bad enough for full displacement hulls, the negative effects are even worse for faster boats with lighter, planing hulls. Boats are designed to perform their best with a specific payload in mind. An overweight boat rides low on her lines. This increases the wetted surface of the hull which, in turn, increases friction between the hull and water and reduces speed and fuel efficiency.

Lighten your load.
If it’s time to put your boat on a diet, start to lose onboard weight by going through all cabinets, lockers and storage compartments to see what items you really need on board. The goal here is to ditch the excess weight while maintaining acceptable levels of equipment to maintain safety and comfort. Be realistic, and consider your near future boating plans when reviewing items to keep or purge. There’s no better place to start your boat diet than in the galley. Sure you’ve got enough pots, pans, and gadgets to cook a seven-course meal, but how often have you actually done so? The same thing goes for all those extra cooking supplies, canned goods and that bulk purchase 10-pound bag of sugar that was on sale. Will you actually use them anytime soon?

Books and boats just go together, but rather than maintaining a complete library on board, how about only bringing the ones you’ll need for one trip and keep the rest ashore? Better yet, download them to your iPad or Kindle to save even more weight.

Items that may seem inconsequential weight-wise can add up before you know it. Do you really need two dozen towels, three changes of bed linens, five blankets, and all those throw pillows? Go through your hanging lockers and see what clothes have actually been worn in the past year, and ask yourself if you really need five sun hats.

Next up, take a hard look at your engine and boat spares as well as maintenance items. You’ll want to make sure you have the prudent and proper amount of spares and tools on board, but unless you’re going on an extended cruise, remove those “just in case” duplicates or stock, such as extra oil, spare hardware, and rarely used tools; they can add up to significant weight savings. The same is true for routine maintenance items and cleaning supplies (paints, varnishes, shop vacs, and the like), which would be better stored in a dock box or at home until necessary.

Tanks for the idea.
Another great place to realize some huge onboard weight savings is your vessel’s tankage. You always want to have enough fuel on board, but if you’re doing shorter trips, why take on a full tank of fuel and lug around the extra weight? Buy only as much fuel as needed plus a bit of reserve, and avoid the temptation to burn extra fuel because you have a full tank. It may mean more trips to the fuel dock, but you’ll save money in the long run.

Employ a similar mindset when it comes to your water tanks. A gallon of water weighs more than eight pounds, so why drag around a full tank when you’re only going on a day trip? As any good plumber will tell you, “it ain’t just water that rolls downhill,” so what about that full holding tank? Pumping it after every trip will reduce both weight and unwanted smells.

Coolers and live wells present another opportunity. Why use 100 lbs. of ice if 50 lbs. will do, or why bring a case of sodas if you only drink four or five per trip? Keeping your live well empty unless you actually have bait seems like a no-brainer, but you’d be amazed by what some boat owners unthinkingly do out of sheer habit.

Balance what’s left.
Once you’ve removed all of that excess onboard weight, distribute the remaining gear to best balance the boat. This not only improves the ride but also saves fuel by allowing non-displacement boats to get up on a plane more quickly. Don’t be afraid to ask passengers to shift around to accomplish this, and, if installed, learn how to properly use trim tabs for maximum planing efficiency.

Keep the mindset.
Like any diet, once the weight is off, it’s easy to backslide and start packing it on again, especially when looking at all that empty storage space. Keep that rebound onboard weight gain in check by paying attention to all the stuff that tries to find its way back on board. It’s also a good idea to clean out your storage lockers at the beginning of each season to get rid of stuff you really don’t need. Keep the weight off, and both your boat and your wallet will thank you.

Ditch the parachute.
While not a weight reduction issue, boats with planing hulls can also improve their fuel economy by lowering their Bimini top while running. That big, shady top may be horizontal while at the dock, but it will be angled and act like a huge parachute while underway. Dropping it when running fast on longer trips and then raising it once you reach your destination will significantly improve your boat’s fuel efficiency.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating March 2018

See more from the Annual Haul Out Guide

Ground Tackle: to refit or not to refit?

That is the question. The answer is that ground tackle is an essential component to boating.

As you prepare for the change in seasons, don’t forget to inspect a very important safety item—the ground tackle. “There are three safety things on board—a life jacket, fire extinguisher, and anchor,” says John Lynch, COO of Anchorlift in Cape Coral, FL. Lynch advises that when inspecting the anchor (particularly at the weld points) and chain, “Look to see if any of the galvanizations has been corrupted and if any rust has started to form in those areas where the galvanization has disappeared or rubbed off.”

The Skinny on Ground Tackle

Ground tackle that uses a combination of chain and rope can create rust where the rope is connected to the chain. This is because it rubs off the galvanization. Lynch suggests cutting the link attachedto the splice end and to reconnect the rode using a D-connecting link. This would be the only time he recommends using a connecting link and suggests using a thread lock product, such as Loctite, on the screw pin.

Rust is the worst enemy and may initially be cosmetic. A thorough cleaning along with an anti-corrosion coating will provide protection but only temporarily. Use a galvanizing compound spray for galvanized anchors and chain. “Once corrosion starts, you can’t stop it,” says Lynch. The application of a coating doesn’t restore the anchor and chain, nor does the process return the ground tackle to its original strength. If the gear shows signs of pitting or flaking of the metal, or if the links appear thinner in width, then it’s time to replace it.

The Rode

When inspecting the anchor line, look for signs of abrasion, cuts, broken or frayed yarns, variations in strand size or shape, burns, dry rot, and even rust (on nylon). Look closely at splices. “A splice should be eight to ten inches back into itself,” says Lynch. He points out that the splice between rope and chain should be no larger than the link of the chain it’s attaching to. If it’s larger, it can easily jam in the windlass.

If necessary, Lynch recommends replacing the rode with either 8-strand nylon or double braid 8- to 24-plait polyester. “Three-strand nylon is inexpensive. But does not work well in a windlass because it’s slick, more so when wet,” explains Lynch. “Eight-strand nylon has better grip because of the weave, [and] double braid is smooth to the touch, holds up longer in a marine environment and gives terrific grip when going through a gypsy.”

The Windlass

“Windlasses are very forgiving, but they are abused endlessly. A little care pays dividends,” says Jonathan Neeves, published technical writer specializing in anchoring. If the rode or chain is slipping through the gypsy, “Check the clutch cones and make sure they are greased properly,” adds Lynch.

“Check the pressure fingers that provide the pressure put on the chain and rope so it grips going through the gypsy. Those are spring loaded, and sometimes the spring can wear out.” Check the motor and gearbox exterior to make sure no corrosion is forming, check the gearbox oil and check the electrical connections. If there’s corrosion, terminals are loose or wire jackets are compromised, follow Lynch’s directions. “Fix it, don’t patch it,” Lynch recommends. “Replace it.”

“A major issue is that many windlasses are commonly made from a cross-section of metals. The bolts are usually stainless with the castings aluminum,” says Neeves. He suggests checking the original installation, and subsequent servicing that the stainless bolts are isolated from the alloy with some form of protection, such as Duralac.

The Locker

A clean anchor and chain won’t last long if the anchor locker is a mess. “Unblock the drain hole,” says Neeves. “If the locker drain is above the locker base, make sure your chain does not sit in a puddle of water, or worse, mud. … Some muds are anaerobic and will be acidic which will corrode the galvanizing off the chain. Wash the locker out with fresh water as often as possible as it’s commonly full of salt. If sitting in the sun, the perfect condition for accelerated corrosion.”

The anchor system is an important safety feature. Care for ground tackle properly. Remember, it keeps you attached to the seabed floor while fishing, diving or weathering out a storm.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating March 2018

See more from the Annual Haul Out Guide

Spare Parts to Keep Aboard

The Spare Essentials: Pack properly for potential problems and keep these spare parts aboard

Every boating adventure promises an amalgam of excitement, relaxation, mistakes, and mishaps. Rarely does something not go wrong; it’s a truism every boat owner knows from experience. That’s why extra fluids and impellers—and a handheld VHF radio that’s always
charged—can save the day in remote locales where help from other boat owners or towboats is lacking.

“I take those big containers you get at Home Depot and fill it full of spare parts, and then I make a list of what’s inside,” says Perera, who runs his 54-foot cruising boat to The Bahamas two or three times a year. “We started going over there in 1999 and have been all over The Bahamas, from the Abacos to the Exumas.” Having the proper tools to make the changes—such as an oil filter wrench—is also important. “It’s practice at the dock so you know how to use your tools,” Perera quips. “That way when you get out there you know what to do with those tools.”

Expect the Unexpected

Perhaps the weakest link on the boat is the impellers, the muscles inside raw-water pumps. Having a spare impeller for every pump can be invaluable in an emergency. Debris that clogs the raw-water supply can cause engine overheating, and the impeller can implode. “Again, you need to know how to replace impellers and that takes practice,” Perera affirms. “If you can’t do it if you are at the dock, you can find someone who can.” Bad impellers will have cracking where the vanes are at the base, or the tips will show damage. Because they are inexpensive—and you have a spare—if there is a question
then always change the impeller.

Quickly removing raw water from the bilge can also help save the boat in an emergency, and that’s where an extra external water pump comes in handy. You don’t want standing water or fluids in your boat, and again, any fluid is a sign that something is wrong. “Extra belts for your generator and engines are good to carry,” Perera adds. “Belts don’t weigh much and you can stock a full replacement set. Also, have a way to jump-start your battery, and if you have to plug a leak or slap some stuff together, 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is good to have. It’s also nice to have extra light bulbs in case one goes out, and extra coolant for the engines.”

Think Again

Some boat owners carry extra propellers or even an extra anchor, but Perera says the extra weight of anchors and propellers makes it impractical to carry a spare. “Spare props
for my boat weigh 500 pounds, and carrying it around burns a lot of extra fuel,” Perera states. “Good luck trying to get three guys to wrestle that out of a compartment, off the boat and then put the spare propeller on. It’s a lot of weight to carry for a very
low probability. And with an anchor, again, that’s a lot of weight to carry, and then you
have to know how to splice it and put the anchor line together again.”

Some items, such as life jackets and flares are more than spare parts, they’re must-haves. “If you are going to do long-range boating, then have the Type I life jackets with the whistle and the light,” Perera recommends. “You will also want a life raft that is certified annually, and make sure your flares are up to date.” Emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs) and personal location devices (PLBs) are among many products available that can save lives when catastrophe strikes.

Heir and a Spare

While not counted as spares, it’s important to make sure these valuable electronics are in working condition.“With the EPIRB all you have to do is flip the switch and airplanes and ships can locate your position within five feet. It’s a piece of safety equipment that’s not a spare but a requirement in my opinion.”

In the end, while spare parts can improve the odds of surviving an accident at sea, it’s never completely safe at sea. A boat owner and his crew may have a decent blueprint
about how to create and implement an emergency procedure, and Plan A is having such a procedure and protocol in place but never having to use it. That’s because you arrive at your destination safely, with time to spare.

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating January 2018

How to Remove Stainless Steel Stains

When Stainless Steel Stains: Read up on stainless steel before rivers of rust ruin your ride.

“All that glitters is not gold” is sage advice for many things in life, but it rings especially true for stainless steel hardware. As a marine surveyor, I see plenty of stainless hardware failures, some due to the use of poor quality stainless, others due to poor installation practices or lack of maintenance. But what exactly is marine-grade stainless steel, and why does even the “good stuff” occasionally fail? Let’s take a look at why stainless steel stains.

Stainless steel 101
Stainless steel generally lives up to its name, assuming that the correct grade or series is used for the job at hand and that it is installed and maintained correctly. Most of the stainless steel hardware found at a typical chandlery will be from the 300 series, the various types of which are suitable for a wide array of marine applications. Type 304 is a good, basic, multipurpose-type stainless steel. Add a bit more nickel content and molybdenum to the mix and you get types 316 and 316L, both of which have improved resistance to corrosion. Type 316L features a lower carbon content to prevent carbide precipitation (and intergranular corrosion) when welded.

For the purpose of this article, let’s assume the word “stainless” refers to any of the grade 300 series mentioned above. From a boat owner’s perspective, they all have one big thing in common: a self-generated protective coating that helps prevent corrosion. The chromium used in stainless steel combines with oxygen to form an invisible layer of chromium oxide, which protects and prevents corrosion from penetrating
into the stainless.

This inert, protective film is also self-repairing as long as sufficient oxygen is present. Stainless steel is much more prone to corrosion when installed in an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment, a situation where chlorides found in seawater can attack and destroy this protective coating faster than it can repair itself. A perfect example of this would be the failure of a sailboat’s stainless steel chainplate at the point where it
transitions the deck (more on why in a moment). Such failures often occur even though the chainplate may look pristine above and below the deck penetration.

Assuming the correct grade of stainless is used, boat owners can help prevent corrosion and failure by ensuring the hardware is installed correctly and properly maintained. To better understand why installation and maintenance are important, a general knowledge of basic boat construction is helpful.

The horizontal surfaces on most boats (decks, cabin tops, cockpits, etc.) are of “cored” construction, meaning some material (plywood, end-grain, balsa, or foam) is sandwiched
between an inner and outer layer of fiberglass. This construction is typically used for the transom of powerboats as well. Cored construction produces a structure that is stronger and lighter than a similar panel of solid fiberglass, with greater acoustic and thermal properties as well. One downside is that any penetration into the coring can allow moisture entry if not properly sealed during installation or if the caulking used to seal the hardware breaks down due to age. Unless the coring is isolated or sealed against moisture (a rarity among many boat builders) the coring absorbs this moisture, resting like a wet sponge against the fastener.

That’s when it gets ugly. Over time the oxygen in the water is depleted and the protective chromium oxide film breaks down, unable to renew itself. At this point the iron in the stainless starts to corrode, resulting in expansion and the “running rust” stains indicative of hardware in trouble and in need of immediate attention.

So, what’s a boat owner to do?
Deck hardware (including transom-mounted stainless) should be pulled and rebedded (re-caulked) periodically to prevent leaks. This is especially true for hardware that experiences high or cyclical loads: windlasses, cleats, chainplates, stanchion bases, and the like. The flexing caused by such loads breaks the bond between the caulk and hardware over time, allowing water entry.

There’s no hard and fast rule regarding how often you should recaulk, but the general consensus is that deck hardware should be pulled, inspected for damage and rebedded every 7 to 10 years (more frequently if the situation calls for it).

Another thing to remember is that gooping sealant around the outside edges of a leaking chainplate, stanchion or other pieces of deck hardware in efforts to stop a leak is like throwing sawdust against a waterfall. The fitting has to be pulled and rebedded, or you’re just wasting your time. This also allows you to inspect the hardware and deck coring for issues.

To sum it up, be alert when buying stainless steel. Nuts, bolts, clamps, fastenings, and other such hardware are available from a seemingly endless number of vendors, both online and at “brick and mortar” chandlery stores. Some are more reputable than others, so don’t let low pricing alone guide your purchase. Always verify the grade of stainless you are buying and if purchasing locally, trust but verify by carrying a small magnet, since 300-series stainless should be nonmagnetic or nearly so. When testing hose clamps, be sure to test the screw as well since many cheap stainless clamps use a plated steel screw, which can fail rapidly in the marine environment.

COMMON TYPES OF STAINLESS CORROSION

Crevice Corrosion: a problem with stainless fasteners used in seawater applications where chlorides pit the passivated surface, and low pH salt water attacks the exposed metal. Lacking the oxygen to re-passivate, corrosion continues. As indicated by its name, this corrosion is most common in oxygen restricted crevices, such as under a bolt head.

Pitting: Stainless that has its protective coating penetrated in a small spot becomes an anodic, while the coated part remains cathodic, causing a pit-type corrosion.

Galvanic Corrosion: Immersing two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte solution (such as seawater) produces an electrical current. The current flows from the anodic metal and toward the cathodic metal, and in the process slowly removes material
from the anodic metal.

Intergranular Corrosion: Stainless steel contains a small amount of carbon. When exposed to extremely high temperature (welding, for example) the carbon forces local chrome to form chromium carbide around it, starving the adjacent areas of the chrome it needs for corrosion protection. Choose low carbon stainless such as 304L or 316L when welding.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating February 2018

Nautic9 Fenders

Nautic9 Fenders save space on board with inflatable and collapsible fenders from 9- to 48-inch diameters of varying lengths. Fenders are constructed with UV treated, ultrasonic heat welded, 1.2-millimeter PVC, and the Nautic9 Fenders inflate and deflate in just minutes. Look for their new and innovative, 90-degree corner fender at the Palm Beach International Boat Show.

MSRP of the 14-inch diameter fender for boats sized 25-55 feet is $110

nautic9fenders.com

Iosso Water Repellent

In keeping with this month’s Haul Out Guide, protect your boat’s fabrics with Iosso Water Repellent. Invisible protection in a non-solvent, non-silicone solution repels water, soil, and oils and resists mildew and stains. Use on boat covers, biminis, cushions,
gear, and more, including leather and vinyl.

The water repellent formula keeps the material’s original finish and breathability intact. A 32-ounce spray bottle covers approximately 37 square feet.

MSRP $20.95

iosso.com

Looking for more boat gadgets?