Category: Maintenance

How to install a USB charger

We’ve got all the tips on how to install a USB charger.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a boat owner that couldn’t use a new or additional USB charger outlet, particularly in light of the increased use of smartphones and tablets for navigation. Most boats have a standard 12 VDC outlet (allowing you to insert a USB charge adapter), however, the contacts can be unreliable aboard a bouncing boat, and the protruding adapter is prone to snagging. A dedicated USB socket is a much better alternative. Here’s how to enjoy a few hours on your boat while adding a convenience that everyone can appreciate.

The first step is selecting a USB outlet, but searching online results in seemingly limitless options. Narrow your search by selecting only water-resistant units constructed of marine-grade components such as those from Marinco, Mastervolt, Blue Sea, etc. Those are the ones you’ll typically see at most any marine chandlery or online distributor. Other features to look for include a water-resistant cover, dual USB ports and a power indicator light or backlighting. Some units even incorporate a 12 VDC power meter providing a quick, convenient way to monitor battery voltage.

Next, take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk through it in an effort to head off any potential problems: You’ve chosen an ideal location, but is there a path to run the power wires? This also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job preventing those extra trips back to the chandlery for forgotten items.

Once you’ve chosen a USB outlet, planned the installation and assembled all of the necessary tools and materials, it’s time to get down to business. These tips will help you along the path to USB charger nirvana.

  • Select an area for the outlet that’s convenient for charging but is protected to the extent possible from weather, spray, etc. While the outlet may be water resistant with the cover in place, that won’t be the case while in use.
  • Be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mount location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables is never conducive to a good install.
  • Turn off all power prior to drilling. Place battery switches to off or better yet, disconnect the batteries completely. If there are AC circuits on board, turn off all breakers, inverters,
    etc., and unplug shore power plugs. Leave all power off until the project is completed and you’re ready to test.
  • You can use a spade bit to drill the mounting hole for the outlet, but a hole saw will produce a much cleaner cut. Cover the mounting area with masking tape to protect the
    gelcoat from scratches and help prevent chipping while drilling. For this article, we’ll assume the hole is being drilled through a solid fiberglass panel. Drilling through
    cored panels will involve additional steps (sealing the exposed coring, etc.) to prevent water entry issues.
  • Use good quality marine-grade wire with two conductors, a red (positive) wire and black or yellow negative one. Support the wire run every 18 inches and provide chafe protection (grommets, etc.) where necessary.
  • Begin the wire run at the plug end by feeding it through the outlet hole and working toward the DC power panel. Leave about a foot of wire hanging out at the plug end to make installation of the outlet easier once the wire run is completed.
  • Use marine-grade connectors for all power connections, preferably heat shrink-style, crimp-on connectors to prevent corrosion.
  • Connect the wire at the rear of the breaker panel. This will typically involve a positive connection on the switched side of the main breaker and a negative connection to the
    negative bus bar. Ensure all crimp on ring terminals are of the correct size for the studs or screws they’re attached to.
  • Ensure the installation is protected by an appropriately sized fuse as per the manufacturer’s instructions. This may involve installation of a fuse holder in the positive wire between the panel and outlet.
  • Connect the wire to the back of the outlet plug. This will typically be done using female spade connectors.
  • Drill the holes and mount the outlet flange. Place a small amount of marine-grade silicone beneath the flange to prevent water entry.
  • Once the installation is complete, turn the power back on and test the outlet by plugging in a phone, tablet or other suitable devices into the USB charger.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating December 2017

Photo: USCG

Top Twelve Towing Tips

Top Twelve Towing Tips

Be a better boater with these towing tips.

When discussing “the laws of the sea” down at the yacht club’s Tiki bar, the big one will invariably be your duty to render assistance to those in trouble while on the water. Probably the most common assistance will be in the form of a tow. Despite the proliferation of commercial towing companies, there will be times when a fellow mariner can arrive on the scene faster than a professional first responder. Let’s take a look at what you need to know in order to protect not only yourself but also those you are trying to help with these towing tips.

Towing basics

Providing a non-emergency tow (i.e. boat and occupants are not in any immediate danger) may be the most common form of assistance, but that doesn’t mean it’s commonly done correctly. Towing is not simply a matter of tossing Bubba your ratty dock line and goosing the throttle. Before offering a tow, there are things that you as the captain will be required to know both from a practical and legal responsibility standpoint. No set of guidelines will be able to cover every variable you’ll encounter, but the following towing tips should be useful for almost any towing situation.

Top 12 Towing Tips

  1. Take a moment to assess the situation when arriving at the disabled vessel. Everyone wants to lend a hand whenever possible, but you have the responsibility to do so without placing yourself in danger or worsening the situation of the other vessel. For example, a boat that’s aground could have sustained significant damage, causing it to sink once towed into deeper water.
  2. When towing, have the disabled boat pass the tow line over to the tow boat. This lets the towing vessel easily cast off once the tow is completed. A nylon anchor rode is ideal for this as it is typically easily available, is long (allowing for length adjustments) and provides good shock-absorbing qualities due to the nylon’s stretchiness.
  3. If the towing vessel has an on-centerline towing fixture (pylon for skiing, etc.), it might make a good place to attach a tow line assuming it is robust enough. Otherwise, you’ll want to make a towing bridle. A simple bridle can be made by running a stout line between your two stern cleats. Attach the towing line to it using a bowline so that the loop can slide along your bridle. Keep the bridle loose enough to provide room for the tow line to slide freely but not so loose that it can come in contact with your propeller.
  4. Establish communications before starting the tow and keep in constant touch throughout the tow. Using your VHF on a “working” or non-emergency channel will likely be the most common means of communication, however, cell phones or even hand signals will work. For the latter, make sure everyone understands the basic hand signals to be used (stop, slow down, speed up, release the tow, etc.)
  5. Once the tow line is attached to both vessels, slowly take the slack out of the tow line until the full load is achieved at which point you can throttle up to a suitable towing speed.
  6. Always agree on where the disabled vessel will be towed prior to heading out. It’s also a good idea to have a contingency plan in place in case something goes wrong
    (deteriorating weather, low fuel, etc.).
  7. Maintain a “tow watch” during the tow, both to make sure the towed vessel is doing okay and to ensure the tow line doesn’t foul your propeller.
  8. If towing in open water, increase the length of the tow line. This not only puts some safe distance between the two vessels but also increases the shock-absorbing qualities of your tow rope. If towing in larger waves, adjust the tow line so that both boats ride in sync with each other at the wave crests, troughs, etc. Boats that are out of sync while towing can experience significant shock loading causing boat damage(ripped out cleats, for example) and injury to those on board.
  9. Shorten up tow lines in calm waters or when maneuvering in close quarters (such as approaching a boat ramp or dock). Always remember that just because the tow boat stops, that doesn’t mean the towed boat will quickly do the same.
  10. Provide chafe protection for the tow line anywhere it touches the tow or towed boat. Old fire hose makes great chafe gear, but even something as simple as a fish towel, old piece of canvas or a T-shirt will work in a pinch. On the opposite side of the equation, always keep a sharp knife handy should you need to sever the towline in the event of an emergency.
  11. Make the tow as smooth as possible for the towed vessel. Try different speeds to find the best speed for both the boat being towed and the conditions.
  12. Never hesitate to decline to offer a tow if circumstances make it unsafe: bad weather, rough seas, your boat is too small, etc. The bottom line is that while you are obliged to provide as much help as possible in the event of an emergency, you also don’t want to attempt something that is beyond your capabilities, a situation that could create civil liability for you, even if follow these towing tips. If the crew is stranded but not in imminent danger, the most prudent course of action may be to simply stand by and provide moral support until a professional tow company arrives to assistBy Frank Lanier, Southern Boating January 2018

For more tips: Trailering Tips

U.S. Coast Guard Safety Check

If the U.S. Coast Guard boards your boat, it pays to be calm and ready.

The U.S. Coast Guard isn’t to be feared like Big Brother, though boat operators may feel like scofflaws who speed through school zones when the red and blueclad Coasties appear. It’s the same driver angst police officers elicit on the road: What will I get busted for now?

Anyone regularly navigating ports or waters near international borders will likely have an encounter with the Coast Guard. As one of the five branches of the U.S. military— along with the Air Force, Army, Marine Corps, and Navy—the Coast Guard is under the Department of Homeland Security and exists to enforce the law, not to teach it. In addition, when you launch your boat in U.S. waters, you relinquish your Fourth Amendment rights at the dock. The Coast Guard doesn’t require probable cause to board your boat, a provision which dates back to the late 1700s and the Revolutionary War.

“When the Coast Guard pulls up to a boat, often it’s [to say]: ‘Hey, we are just checking to see how you are doing today,’” says Jonathan Lally, a Coast Guard spokesman and Petty Officer 2nd Class, based out of the 7th Coast Guard District, Miami Public Affairs Office. “Our crews are not out there to hassle people. They are out there to make sure people are safe and prevent accidents before they happen.”

Making the Coast Guard’s job difficult when officers want to board your boat will only cause the stop to last longer and may increase suspicion. If you have a firearm or other weapons on board, let the Coast Guard officers know before they board. Once they do an initial safety sweep to their satisfaction and make sure your registration and identification check out, then they may look for drugs. If that happens, they will thoroughly search compartments and closets.

Heeding basic regulations will prevent a citation. The Coast Guard will ensure that all children younger than age 13 are wearing life jackets and that there is a flotation device for each person on board. Make sure you have a noisemaker and throw-ring with a line that is within easy reach. A lack of boat registration or fire extinguisher is a common error, as these are federal  requirements. Again, the Coast Guard’s main duties are certifying that boats are secure from foreign threats, environmentally in compliance and, most important, that the boat and passengers are safe.

“Already having on a life jacket when you go into the water is going to increase your chances of survival,” Lally explains. “Not only does it help you float, but it gives us and other rescuers more to search for, because we are looking for basketball-size object in the water. Today’s life jackets are more comfortable than old-style life jackets, as well as colorful.”

Once the inspection is complete, the Coast Guard will issue a Report of Boarding Form CG-4100, a two-page document that consists of a white original and a yellow copy. The captain gets the yellow copy. Keep it handy, as you can show it to Coast Guard officers if you are boarded again soon.

If you are embarking on a long voyage, proper communication before and after the passage is crucial. “File a float plan with family and friends, the more detailed the better,” Lally adds, noting that your boat’s equipment and tools are also vitally important. Make sure your charts— electronic and paper—are up to date so that you can use them to navigate instead of visual aids. “If you do get lost or delayed and don’t make it to a certain marina you said you were headed to, the Coast Guard knows where to search.”

In addition, verify your marine-band VHF is working; the Coast Guard constantly monitors Channel 16. Don’t depend on a cell phone as cell towers are unreliable. You can use your
VHF radio to call for help even in spots where your cell phone has no signal. Also, Sea Tow offers a free Automated Radio Check system to ensure the radio is working properly.

Other tips include stowing extra gear—such as blankets and a tarp—to help protect you against the elements should a thunderstorm arise. Always have a dry bag with a change
of clothes. Staying dry is an essential part of survival. Finally, keeping a “weather eye” is invaluable, as conditions can change rapidly.

“Know how to use your flares if you are forced into using them,” says Lally, adding a caution to be careful not to fire them accidentally so that they’re not available when you really need to send a signal. “Nowadays, there are many boating classes out there where people can learn to be safe. We encourage everyone to take these classes and keep taking them to continue their safety education.” uscg.mil

By Don Minikus, Southern Boating Magazine November 2017

PHOTO: U.S. COAST GUARD

Iosso Fiberglass Reconditioner

Iosso Fiberglass Reconditioner

Iosso Fiberglass Reconditioner restores color and protects in one easy step, removing oxidation, chalking, waterline scum, rust, exhaust, road tar, and oil. Its protective glossy coating lasts 4-6 months, so there’s no reason to wax over it. Highly effective, a one-pound container cleans a 30′ boat from the waterline up. Iosso Fiberglass Reconditioner can be used by hand or with an electric polisher or buffer.

MSRP $23 (1-lb.), $85.45 (5-lbs.); iosso.com

Beckson Marine Deck Plates

Beckson Marine Deck Plates are reliable and durable.

Beckson Marine  Pry-Out and Screw-Out Deck Plates are available in 4″, 6″ and 8″ sizes and can be relied on for superior seal since they exceed five industry certifications through independent lab testing. Standard stock colors include white, beige and black; also available are models with clear observation ports in the center of the deck plates as shown.

MSRP varies; beckson.com

Supyak Hi Life 11.0 by Perception Kayaks

Part SUP, part kayak, all fun: the Supyak.

The new Supyak Hi Life 11.0 By Perception Kayaks is perfect when you want a SUP and a kayak but only have room and the budget for one.

This roto-molded big board is UV, abrasion, and impact resistant and stays stable with loads of up to 280 pounds. The padded seat folds down and out of the way when you’re ready to SUP, and there are a built-in cooler and cup holder.

MSRP $799; perceptionkayaks.com

Top Three Boat Systems

Every boat owner should know these top three boat systems—and know them well.

Congratulations! You’ve purchased your dream boat, and you’re ready to cruise faraway lands in search of adventure and fruity drinks with little umbrellas in them. Not so fast! Now the real fun begins as you learn about the operation and function of the various equipment on board prior to heading out.

To help boost your maritime learning curve, here are three common boat systems every cruiser should be familiar with.

DC electrical system

When it comes to your boat’s DC electrical system, knowledge is power! Smart boaters will acquaint themselves with major components and how they interact to provide juice to the various systems and equipment on board before problems arise.

Parts to know on sight:

DC system components you should become intimately familiar with include batteries/battery banks, primary on/ off battery switches and the location of any breakers or fuses within the system.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

If your DC system utilizes fuses, knowing where they are and having spares for each type (cartridge, spade, etc.) is a must. Read through the owner’s manuals of electrical equipment you have installed (to determine if they come with inline fuses), and don’t forget to carry spares for any unusual or specialty fuses you may need (engine starting, windlass, etc.).

In addition to the tools commonly found in the basic kit, the No. 1 item you’ll want to have on board when troubleshooting your DC system is a multimeter. It’s indispensable for tracing DC voltages, testing fuses and tracking down broken wires or corroded connectors. You don’t need anything fancy, and since they can be found at most hardware stores for as little as $5, there’s no excuse for not having one in your toolkit.

Other good-to-have items are a 15-foot jumper wire with alligator clips on each end (to help troubleshoot wiring circuits), crimpon butt and terminal connectors, wire  tripper/crimpers, heat shrink and liquid electrical tape (for sealing connections), WD-40 (or a similar corrosion inhibitor), a small wire brush (for clearing away corrosion), and possibly an assortment of wire (various lengths and sizes).

Fuel system

When fellow cruisers say getting there is half the fun, it’s obvious they’ve never been stranded on the water due to a stalled engine. If it happens, you’ll find getting your boat moving again will be ALL the fun you’re looking for. More often than not, an on-the-water, no-go event will likely involve the fuel system.

Parts to know on sight:

This is another system that you should be able to trace out (from tank fi ll to engine) before problems occur. Components to locate and identify include a fuel tank fill hose and fuel line fittings, fuel shut-off valves and all fuel filters.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Have spare filter cartridges or cartridges for both primary and secondary filters on hand. Familiarity with the requirements for bleeding your diesel after fuel filter changes is also highly recommended. This maintenance item will go much smoother if you know how to do it beforehand.

Sanitation system

With the possible exception of “Where’s all this water coming from?”, probably no other statement strikes more fear in a  boat owner’s heart than: “The toilet isn’t working for some reason.” It’s particularly troubling when you realize the issue typically doesn’t make itself known until after “the deed” has already been done.

Parts to know on sight:

This depends on the type of marine sanitation system you have installed. Gravity fed toilets (aka Porta Potti-type units) are pretty simple and work just like the name implies. They have a bowl that essentially dumps its contents directly into an integral holding tank, which can be removed and discarded in the appropriate receptacle on shore.

Permanently mounted sanitation systems will generally have a flushwater intake thru-hull and seacock (although in some cases this may also be plumbed to the boat’s freshwater system), a manual- or electric-flush toilet, a holding tank, and a deck fitting for dockside pumpouts.

Additional components you may see (depending on the system) include “Y” selector valves (allowing you to discharge bowl contents directly overboard or into a holding tank or waste from a holding tank to a macerator or deck pump-out), vented loops (to prevent back siphoning and flooding), a macerator pump, and an overboard discharge thru-hull and seacock.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Spare parts can range from gaskets and seals to entire rebuild kits for the toilet pump. A great place to look for advice on this is the owner’s manual, which will usually provide a suggested list of spare parts. A basic tool kit containing screwdrivers, a socket set, etc., as well as a few extra hose clamps, will also come in handy, particularly if you have to disassemble hose runs to look for clogs—a job that’s just as nasty as it sounds.

By Frank Lanier Southern Boating August 2017

Bow Thruster Maintenance

Proper bow thruster maintenance will ensure the best performance from your bow thruster

Bow thrusters are part of what I refer to as the “silent crewmember’s union.” Always willing to help out when needed, thrusters—along with other union members (autopilots, anchor windlasses, etc.)—make our time on the water both safer and more enjoyable. As with any boating equipment, proper bow thruster maintenance is key when it comes to reliability. Here’s how to make sure your thruster is always ready to lend a hand.

Electric vs Hydraulic 

A bow thruster is simply a propulsion device that provides lateral (port and starboard) thrust, making the vessel more maneuverable. It is electric or hydraulic and will be either a traditional tunnel- or tube-mounted drive or an externally mounted unit.

Electric units can be further divided into 12- or 24-volt DC types or even the occasional
AC-powered unit. Hydraulic thrusters are commonly found on larger vessels, particularly those that have additional hydraulic systems on board to power anchor windlass or dingy davits.

A typical electric thruster installation involves either running cables of sufficient size to minimize voltage drop from an existing battery bank or installing a dedicated battery in the vicinity of the thruster along with a method of charging it. A third option is piggybacking off of an electric windlass circuit.

Bow Thruster Maintenance

Bow thruster maintenance requirements are determined by the type of thruster you have. Different models have different needs, so the first place to look when compiling your maintenance list is the owner’s manual. Schedule and follow the specific requisite provided there, but here are some other things to consider.

Access the thruster space at least twice a year and inspect the thruster compartment for excessive moisture levels, standing water and leaks. Examine the thruster tube ends (where glassed to the hull) for cracks in the gelcoat or laminate. Another place to check for leaking is the gasket at the thruster saddle, the bracket where the motor mounts to the thruster tube. Inspect the motor and all thruster components for corrosion. Even if there are no leaks, many thrusters are installed in compartments near the anchor locker, where wet rodes and chain create a moisture-rich environment. Running rust, flaking paint or a white, powdery substance on aluminum components are all indications of corrosion

Inspect the motor and all thruster components for corrosion. Even if there are no leaks, many thrusters are installed in compartments near the anchor locker, where wet rodes and chain create a moisture-rich environment. Running rust, flaking paint or a white, powdery substance on aluminum components are all indications of corrosion
and should be addressed. Many manufacturers recommend removal of the motor annually
for examination. This provides an opportunity to check motor brushes, grease couplers, inspect shear pins, etc. It also allows you to view the condition of the sealing gasket
and ensure all mounting hardware is tight.

Secure power to the thruster, then look over and clean all electrical connections. Check both ends of the battery cables for loose hardware, corrosion and other issues; remove and clean any terminals where decay is noted.

Moisture can wick under shrink tubing, so remove it, inspect and clean connectors as required, then recover them. Go over all other thruster system electrical connections and components (battery switches, fuse holders, solenoid connections, etc.).

Check the gear oil level. Some units are completely sealed (meaning their oil level never needs evaluation); however, others require periodic topping-off and changing at regular
intervals. Most units use 90-weight gear oil, but confirm whatever is called for in your owner’s manual.

If your thruster is powered by a dedicated battery, check its installation and condition at least twice a year. It is a good idea to put this on your calendar for the spring and fall months. Check the battery performance with a battery tester. If the battery is not holding a charge, replace it.

Don’t forget the helm control panel and joystick during your inspection, examining each for looseness, deterioration, corrosion, and UV damage. Verify proper operation of the
controls at each helm position, and if you have a wireless remote, now is a good time to install new batteries.

During Haulout

Clean the thruster drive, propeller(s) and inside of the tunnel of marine growth, and check each for cracks or dings. Inspect the drive for corrosion or other problems and the propeller for damage, looseness, etc. Oil in the tunnel beneath the propeller indicates a leaking seal, which will need to be replaced.

Check the condition of the sacrificial anodes (zincs). Although some units have composite gear assemblies and don’t require them, most thrusters will have at least one zinc installed. These should be looked at and renewed annually at a minimum—sometimes more often depending on your vessel’s location and other factors. Always check thruster zincs when you have your other zincs inspected (propeller shaft, rudder, trim tabs, etc.); those zincs can typically be replaced by a diver. Some thruster zincs are specialty items and may not be readily available locally, so carry plenty of spares should they need replacing. In fact, this is a good idea for any extra parts required for your thruster (shear pins, brushes, saddle gaskets, oil seals, spare propellers, etc.).

Apply appropriate antifoulant to the tunnel and drive. Metal drives may require a specific type of antifoulant paint, so follow whatever is recommended in your owner’s manual.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating October 2017

Interlux Micron Paint

Interlux Micron Paint (WA) offers long-lasting antifouling protection to powerboats and sailboats in all waters. Using an eco-friendly paint technology called Water Activated Matrix, Micron® WA provides an attractive finish in a vibrant color while releasing the active ingredients necessary for antifouling. Easy to apply and dries quickly.

MSRP varies; yachtpaint.com

Meguiar’s New Boat Owner’s Essentials Box

Meguiar’s New Boat Owner’s Essentials Box starter kit enables new boat owners to care for and maintain the appearance of their vessel. The kit contains a variety of easy-to-use products to effectively wash, dry and protect a boat’s exterior and can be used on gelcoat, fiberglass and plastic surfaces.

MSRP $45;
meguiars.com/en/marine

Diesel Engine Murder

Murder! Whodunit? YOU committed diesel engine murder!

The deed is done and it is murder most foul. Your loyal diesel engine has met an untimely end, but it wasn’t Colonel Mustard in the library with a Yeti paw or even Miss Scarlett in the foyer with a loofah. It was YOU who murdered your diesel! You cut it down in the prime of its life due to lack of maintenance. Let’s gather the world’s greatest detectives and sleuth through the clues at the scene of the crime to uncover the surprisingly simple ways you sent your engine to an early grave.

CLUE NO. 1: “It’s elementary, my dear Watson.  You failed to change your oil.” 

It doesn’t take a trip to 221B Baker Street to discover that regular oil changes are the single most important thing you can do to increase the life of your engine. Most engine manufacturers recommend oil changes every 100 hours (or annually, at a minimum).

Some manuals may allow for longer intervals, but more frequent oil changes are a better strategy to extend the life of the engine. It is certainly better than stretching out the period between them. This is particularly true for diesel engines, which tend to be harder on oil lubrication properties than gasoline engines (one reason many experts suggest the oil for diesels be changed every 50 hours of use rather than the 100 hours that are more commonly quoted).

CLUE NO. 2: “Read the smoke signals—six, two and even, over and out!”

Detective Dick Tracy doesn’t need a two-way wrist radio to communicate the cause of your engine’s demise—exhaust smoke is your diesel’s way of telling you what’s going on. Noticing the signs early can head off expensive repairs later. A well-maintained engine may smoke when initially cranked or while idling, but typically not while under load.

White smoke during start-up of a cold engine is normal, but it should clear up after the engine warms. If it continues, it’s normally an indication of unburned fuel. But it can also be a number of other issues, from water or air in the fuel to a faulty injector or injection pump. Black smoke upon startup is also common; however, its presence after the engine is at load signifies incomplete combustion. Possible causes include air intake or exhaust restrictions, compression problems and faulty or worn injectors.

Blue smoke means the engine is burning oil, which is also not uncommon at start-up. Continued smoking may mean trouble with  valve guides and stems, worn piston rings or even failing turbo- supercharger oil seals.

CLUE NO. 3: “Observe, Number One Son—air filter
not replaced!”

You don’t have to be as smart as Charlie Chan to see a pattern here regarding routine maintenance. Even simple ones, such as maintaining your air filter, can make a big difference when it comes to increasing your engine’s service life. A clogged air filter not only affects fuel economy, but it can also cause your engine’s turbo (if so equipped) to spin faster in attempts to provide it with adequate airflow. Severe damage to valves, pistons and the turbo itself can occur if dirt and debris from a severely clogged air filter are ingested by your engine.

CLUE NO. 4: “Oh sir, just one more thing… you didn’t change your fuel filters.”

Columbo knows fuel filters always seem to clog at the worst possible moment, such as running a narrow inlet or when navigating a busy harbor. Causing your engine to shut down is bad enough, but it gets even worse. Clogged fuel filters can also damage injectors and injection pumps. Diesel fuel injection systems create a lot of heat and rely on unobstructed fuel fl ow to keep things cool. In extreme cases, excess pressure from a clogged filter can even cause filter damage, allowing a failed filter to dump contaminants directly into the injection system.

CLUE NO. 5: “You poisoned your engine, Monsieur!”

While not as exciting as Murder on the Orient Express, follow Hercule Poirot’s advice to use your “little gray cells,” and you’ll soon surmise that many marine diesel problems originate in the fuel tank. Not surprisingly for boats, water intrusion is a major source of diesel fuel woes. That deck fuel fi ll cap with the missing O-ring is a perfect path for water entry into the fuel tank during every wash down or rainstorm. Limited or seasonal use is also an issue when it comes to boat fuel. Despite the plethora of magic potions and elixirs sold to “kill bugs” or stabilize your fuel, diesel stored on board for long periods can still degrade or become contaminated due to microbial or

Despite the plethora of magic potions and elixirs sold to “kill bugs” or stabilize your fuel, diesel stored on board for long periods can still degrade or become contaminated due to microbial or bacterial growth. Dirty fuel can happen to anyone. If it happens to you, act swiftly to correct the issue, and be sure to maintain good fuel management practices to keep it from ever recurring.

Frank Lanier, Southern Boating August 2017

Jump Feet First into Synthetic Decking

Treat your tootsies—and your boat—to new synthetic decking.

Boat decks frequently get blasted with a witch’s brew of organic and synthetic liquids. Punishing substances— greasy sunscreen, juice, saltwater, beer, potato chips, motor oil, and bird droppings—are ground onto the deck or into the fibers of your carpet and are spread into every nook and cranny. No matter how much you scrub and rinse, sometimes it’s impossible to dislodge the gunk. Even worse, your nasty old carpet might be glued down with rubber cement or an equivalent adhesive that chemically bonds it to your deck. Consequently, the only way to fix this mess is complete removal and replacement.

Replacement product options have never been so plentiful or versatile. Various forms of plastic are the primary ingredient for many of today’s leading marine decking products, are soft to the touch, impervious to fading for many years, stain-resistant, can look like teak, and frequently offer a non-skid quality. The durability and ease of manufacturing has made plastic one of the most common elements in boat construction, and nowadays, even your feet reap the benefits.

Plastic boat decking is typically made from ethylene-vinyl acetate (EVA) foam, polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and woven vinyl fabric. Some boatbuilders use these synthetic decking materials on new builds.

For the do-it-yourselfer who considers refurbishing his own boat with the new synthetic decking, preparing the old surface for the fresh covering can be the most challenging phase of the project. It involves removing not only the worn-out carpet or decking but also chemicals like contact cement. There’s also a substance called mold release that boat manufacturers use during construction. Removing mold release with acetone or a similar cleaner is important because it inhibits the bonding agents for the new material.

Consequently, many boat owners opt to hire a professional to do the job to ensure a high-quality result. All of the companies mentioned in this story provide resources for the do-it-yourselfer—from videos to customer support lines and online forums—and also have a stellar network of professional installers.

“Infinity’s Luxury Woven Vinyl flooring can revolutionize the look and feel of your boat deck,” says Warren McCrickard, vice president of corporate sales for Infinity Woven Products, LLC, based in Dalton, Georgia. “Our woven vinyl is versatile and can be installed either as a snap-in or glued down.”

Removing all the dirt, grease, old glue, and/or contact cement, as well as mold release, is crucial in preparing the boat surface. After it is clean, the decking is applied using different types of adhesives depending on the type of synthetic decking, either in strips to make patterns or in a single piece that is delivered by the manufacturer and is custom-made after measurements are taken.

Boat owners get to enjoy today’s rugged decking before, during and after their day on the water. Not only do the products look good, but dings, scratches and dents are diminished, and when you drop a tool, piece of fishing tackle or similar heavy object, the noise is minimized. “The great thing about EVA foam is that it is soft and comfortable, yet doesn’t hold water and doesn’t get stinky,” explains Jason Gardner, vice president of marketing and advertising for SeaDek Marine Products in Rockledge, Florida.

“EVA foam is closed-cell, meaning water can’t get absorbed into it. It sticks to the deck and it doesn’t get scalding-hot. SeaDek is applied using a pre-applied 3M™ pressure sensitive adhesive (PSA). We have expanded our certified installer and fabricator network so customers get great results if they choose to use a professional.”

SeaDek’s foam provides excellent traction, and the cushioning of the foam can lessen fatigue when standing while fishing. Furthermore, gasoline, motor oil, spider and bird droppings can’t penetrate or stain these new materials. In fact, salt water, which corrodes and destroys many boat parts, cannot ruin EVA foam, PVC or woven vinyl, even after long periods of exposure.

“We changed the recipe of the plastic itself for our PVC (polyvinyl chloride) decking,” says Eve Gribble, co-owner of PlasDECK in Akron, Ohio. “We have one of the highest-grade ultraviolet stabilizers on the market, and our product includes an anti-fungal. That means mold may grow on the product, but not into it.”

Carpets made with the same fibers you have at home trap odors, and once the mildew takes hold there’s no way to shake the smell. Today’s new synthetic decking of EVA foam, PVC or woven vinyl is either neutral in smell or infused with much more pleasant aromas, such as a sandalwood scent with SeaDek’s closed-cell foam. Infinity’s woven vinyl has a neutral smell and dries quickly. It is available in more than 18 collections and 180-plus color choices, while PlasDECK and SeaDek offer more than 20 assorted color choices.

Real teak is luxurious, natural and expensive. However, the myriad of patterns and materials that can closely imitate the look of teak make offerings from today’s decking manufacturers worth considering and can be achieved without the expense or need for constant maintenance.

The payoff for replacing your decking with today’s synthetic decking materials comes in two forms: Cleanup is much easier, and the material will last three times (or more) longer and look better than what was originally installed.

“You save money in the long run and put value into your boat,” McCrickard says. “Carpet needs to be replaced every two to three years. Our flooring is manufactured to last up to 10 years. That’s five times longer than carpet, and the resell value speaks for itself.”

For more information, visit infinitylwv.com, seadek.com and plasdeck.com

By Doug Thompson Southern Boating June 2017

Fish Faster with Propspeed

Loosen Up

Keep propellers and underwater gear free of marine growth for top performance.

Marine growth can be a real drag on your boat’s performance. When your vessel is in the water, algae, barnacles, and other sea life look for places to all home, and that includes the propellers and running gear. Bottom cleaning can’t always keep up, and sooner or later the surfaces are overwhelmed with biological growth that compromises your boat’s efficiency. While it may not make a difference in short runs, the miles add up when you’re burning more fuel because the boat is not operating at peak hydrodynamic efficiency. That’s where a product called Propspeed comes in, a foul release coating system that keeps marine growth at bay. “The short story is more speed, less fuel,” explains Mark Billingsley, a technical and sales support specialist for Propspeed, headquartered in Auckland, New Zealand. “We are all about increasing a vessel’s performance. We allow the engine to be under a lot less engine load, burning less fuel and giving you more speed. It’s the most inexpensive repower a boat owner will ever undertake.”

“The short story is more speed, less fuel,” explains Mark Billingsley, a technical and sales support specialist for Propspeed, headquartered in Auckland, New Zealand. “We are all about increasing a vessel’s performance. We allow the engine to be under a lot less engine load, burning less fuel and giving you more speed. It’s the most inexpensive repower a boat owner will ever undertake.”

Propspeed works by lowering the surface tension of the water on the running gear. The Propspeed system is made up of a two-component etching primer, which bonds to the metal substrate, and a clear coat, which gives an ultra-smooth outer layer. The silicon topcoat provides a clear membrane that allows for the expansion and contraction of the metals so that Propspeed doesn’t crack and peel off.

“For decades, the only solution the industry had to reduce marine-growth attachment was to put on multiple coats of a two-part epoxy primer and then over the top of that a non-copper-containing antifouling paint,” Billingsley adds. “However, the expansion and contraction causes fractures in the paint, and water penetrates the coating and it pops off.” Propspeed offers easy maintenance to prevent marine growth from adhering to the substrate. Simply by running the boat, biological organisms are washed off by the water flow. At the dock, a diver’s glove or rag easily wipes off any organisms that try to attach. Keeping marine growth off a vessel’s metal parts is often done with conventional antifouling paint that includes biocides. Some antifouling coatings contain copper, a strong marine contaminant that was recently banned in the state of Washington. When the biocide is exhausted, it loses its effectiveness—that can happen within a few months and re-coating is required.

Propspeed, however, can work up to two years. It doesn’t contain biocides, copper or tin,
and works because it’s slick rather than due to any toxicity. Some caution, however, needs to be taken to ensure Propspeed stays useful. Its soft coating can be damaged by abrasion or mproper maintenance. Shallow areas with rocks and sand may affect the propellers and cause the tips to be scoured, but with good boating conduct there should not be problems. “Propellers with Propspeed will perform six months or a year later the same way as the day Propspeed was applied,” claims Don MacRae, president and COO of Frank & Jimmie’s Propeller shop, based in Fort Lauderdale. “There will be
no loss of speed because of fouling. Propspeed is the most popular coating requested by our customers at Frank & Jimmie’s because it works.” Cruising boats in the 40- to 80-foot range are ideal candidates for Propspeed, and the usual time for application is during haul-out.

“All of our Propspeed application technicians at Frank & Jimmie’s completed [the company’s product] applicator training course so they understand how to properly prepare the propeller surface for a quality application,” MacRae adds. “Additionally, our more advanced technicians have learned how to feather-in small repairs to the Propspeed surface, resulting in quicker turnaround times and less expense for our customers.”

Because more clients are doing their own maintenance and repairs, Propspeed also offers its product in three different volume amounts at outlets such as West Marine. For example, do-it-yourselfers can pick up a Propspeed DIY 500ml kit for $350. It comes with enough Propclean Wipes, Etching Primer and Propspeed Clear Coat to coat two propellers up to 42 inches in diameter. “For a 40-footer with a set of four-bladed 24-inch props, the customer is going to require our 500ml kit,” Billingsley states. “If the customer wants to include the shafts, struts and rudders, then he could bump up to the one-liter kit, which is twice the liquid and costs about $500 for the complete kit.” Owners of smaller boats who want to do their own work, say a 30-footer with twin three-blade 20-inch props, would require only the 200ml kit, which sells for around $250. “In this case, the boat owner wouldn’t have to haul the boat out, just pull the props,” Billingsley advises. “The kits include detailed instructions on how to apply Propspeed, so if the person is comfortable working on their boat, then applying our product will be well within their skills.”

By Don Minikus Southern Boating Magazine June 2016

Air Conditioner Maintenance

Keep it cool: The lowdown on air conditioning maintenance

Air conditioning systems are one of those onboard items that rarely get a second thought—until they stop working. Here’s how to ensure your system keeps cranking out cool goodness on even the sweatiest of summer days.

Air conditioning systems come in numerous configurations; however, they all contain three major components: an evaporator (where “boiling” refrigerant absorbs heat from air), a compressor (which pushes the refrigerant through the system) and a condenser (where the refrigerant is cooled prior to being returned to the evaporator). Marine air conditioning units are typically direct expansion designs, meaning they pump refrigerant directly to air handlers inside the boat. Larger vessels may instead use a chilled-water system, which cools and circulates cold fresh water through the air handlers instead of refrigerant.

The key to keeping your air conditioner operating reliably is regular maintenance. The first place to look for recommended maintenance is your owner’s manual, but here are a few general tips that can be used to help preserve most any system.

Marine air conditioners work by exchanging heat with circulating seawater. When problems occur, one of the most common causes is a lack of water flow through the system. Symptoms of a saltwater system with restricted water flow can range from a lack of cooling output to more frequent on/off cycling of the unit as it struggles to operate.

Air conditioner maintenance of your cooling water system starts with regularly checking the cooling water intake strainer located between the raw water intake seacock and the unit’s pump. Shut off the seacock, then take out the strainer basket and make sure it’s clear of debris and growth. Once the strainer basket is removed, open the seacock briefly to ensure nothing is clogged in front of the strainer. Then carefully check the strainer basket for damage. The fine, stainless steel mesh baskets found in many air conditioning strainers can erode rapidly due to the constant flow of seawater, so it’s a good idea to keep spares on hand.

Also, check the condition of all hose runs and connections. Begin at the seacock and work your way through the system, from seacock to strainer to pump to air conditioning unit and finally, the overboard discharge thru-hull. Look for issues such as leaks, corroded or broken hose clamps, chafe, collapsed hoses and those showing signs of age or deterioration (cracks, swelling at the hose clamps, etc.).

Seawater cooling hoses should also be double clamped where possible if there is sufficient hose barb to allow it. Hose failure is never a good thing, but it can be particularly bad for owners who become complacent about continually running their air conditioning while the vessel is left unattended. If a raw water cooling hose fails with no one on board, the continuous pumping of seawater can easily sink a boat. A less dramatic reason to avoid running your air conditioner 24/7 is that the oxygenated seawater produced by this constant flow enables all kinds of marine critters to take up residence and thrive in your cooling system.

Another issue that can restrict cooling water flow is the buildup of scale in the condenser coils. The coils should be flushed periodically with a weak solution of biodegradable acid to remove both scale and marine growth, typically every two to five years (depending on where the boat is located and how often the air conditioning is used). Back flushing the system using dock or pressurized water is another option to try if the system is clogged.

In addition to cooling water, an air conditioner also needs plenty of air flow to perform correctly. Good quality, properly fitted air filters are crucial to protecting your air conditioner against dirt and dust. Most systems will have two—one behind the return air grill and one at the evaporator unit. Air filters should be cleaned monthly as described in the owner’s manual, typically by vacuuming or removal and washing with plain water; allow them to dry thoroughly before reinstallation.

The inspection of the condensate pan should also be added to your maintenance checklist. This is the tray below the air conditioning unit that collects the water (humidity) pulled from the air as it’s being cooled. The two things to look for here are proper drainage and corrosion of the pan itself.

The pan should be plumbed so that it drains overboard or into a sump, where the water is then pumped out. Allowing condensation to effuse into the bilge is not recommended.

A simple way to check the drain for adequate operation is to temporarily plug it and pour water into the pan, which should then flush away within 30 seconds or so. If the drain hose is clogged, it can be blown clear with compressed air or pressurized water. If the pan is corroded, particularly to the point that it can no longer contain the condensation, it should be repaired or replaced.

Maintenance requirements for a chilled-water air conditioning system are similar to those for a direct expansion system. Chilled-water systems have to be filled with water to operate properly (similar to refrigerant in a direct expansion system). They will typically have pressure gauges to check for leaks or air in the system, which should be part of regularly scheduled air conditioner maintenance.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine July 2017

Tides Marine’s Stainless Cleaner

Tides Marine’s Super Stainless cleaner offers simple removal of unsightly rust or staining from stainless steel. The simple brush-on, rinse-off method passivates the surface to prevent further corrosion. The nontoxic, biodegradable gel-based solution is safe for use around other materials on board as well.

See it in action:

MSRP $27.50 (16 oz.), $37.50 (32 oz.); tidesmarine.com.

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