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Category: Maintenance

How to Battle Bilge Odors

The Smell of Victory

How to battle bilge odors

There are many benefits to having a clean bilge. Not only will it be odor-free, but leaks are easier to spot, pumps and limber holes are less likely to become clogged, and there’s less chance of accidentally pumping oily bilge water (and generating hefty environmental fines). Let’s look at some common sources of bilge smells and how to combat them by maintaining a clean bilge.

Bilge Basics

The main purpose of a bilge is to collect and isolate water that finds its way inside your boat’s hull until it can be pumped out. Problems occur when this water is allowed to sit, which promotes the growth of algae, mold, and organic slime. The odor issue is also exacerbated by the other “stuff” that gets into the bilge. This can be anything from engine fluids and sanitation system leaks to shower or icebox drains plumbed directly into the bilge, all of which contribute to a veritable Hell’s Broth of liquid nastiness that can cause the bilge to reek.  

Bilge Cleaning Prime Directives 

The key to winning the battle of the bilge is to cure the problem rather than mask it with deodorizers, vaporizers, or scented candles.

The first step is to eliminate leaks and fluids that can cause bilge odors. Check packing glands for excessive dripping, tighten loose hose clamps on thru-hulls and sanitation system hoses, and repair mechanical system fluid leaks. Plumb shower and icebox drains into containment sumps, where they can be pumped overboard without contaminating the bilge with hair, soap, and bits of food, which not only smell, but can also clog
the bilge pumps.

If you already have gray water sumps, make sure they are operating properly as a full sump of grungy water can generate smells aplenty. Check the anchor locker as well, which can contain anything from wet rodes to bottom mud and critters. 

Bilge Cleaning 101

The next step in eliminating funky boat odors is a good old-fashioned bilge cleaning. Modern bilge cleaners are oil-emulsifying, meaning they use chemical emulsifiers to break down oil, fuel, slime, and sludge and trap them in suspension so they can be pumped out along with the bilge water. It’s important to remember that just because a bilge cleaner touts itself as being biodegradable, that’s rarely the case with the resultant, emulsified oil/water mixture, which must be contained and properly disposed of ashore.

Once clean, the best way to control odors is to keep your bilge dry. Use towels, sponges, or a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove residual water, then inspect all bilge spaces to make sure there’s no standing or trapped water (due to a clogged limber hole and the like).  

The next best weapon against bilge odor is to provide plenty of fresh air belowdecks. A well-designed ventilation system allows both the intake of fresh outside air and the discharge of stale cabin air. A combination of active (solar/battery-powered ventilators) and passive vents is a popular solution that works well.

Five Steps to a Clean Bilge

Things you’ll need:

⊲ Biodegradable oil-emulsifying bilge cleaner

⊲ Oil-absorbent bilge pads

⊲ Rags or towels

⊲ Wet/dry shop vacuum 

⊲ Large plastic trash bags 

Steps to Clean the Bilge

⊲ Turn off all automatic bilge pumps.

⊲ Clean the bilge of all debris and place in the trash bag.

⊲ Add bilge cleaner (1 quart per 24 feet of boat length or per manufacturer’s directions) and freshwater (if needed). Allow to remain overnight if docked or moored—the rocking motion of the boat will distribute the cleaner throughout the bilge.  

⊲ Pump the bilge, then flush thoroughly afterward with plenty of freshwater. Always pump the emulsified, oily bilge water out at an approved shore facility or into a suitable container for proper disposal ashore.

⊲ Use the wet/dry shop vacuum and rags to remove any remaining water from the bilge after being pumped out. 

⊲ Place used rags and pads into the trash bag and dispose them properly ashore. 

-by Frank Lanier

Corrosion Testing

Corrosion Testing

The importance of checking anode consumption

While I’ve developed many theories about why and how corrosion occurs aboard specific vessels, I’ve never been able to prove anything without testing. It is the most important aspect of corrosion analysis, as well as the surest means of establishing a corrective path, and yet it is not done frequently.  

In my experience, one of the most common reasons to carry out a corrosion test is zinc consumption. Zinc is one of three metals (along with magnesium and aluminum) used in sacrificial anodes, which are consumed based on the load placed on them. Anodes are affected by several factors, including salinity, temperature, current, the amount and type of metal they are protecting, the condition of the vessel’s bonding system, and shore power isolation.

Many vessel owners complain anodes are being consumed too quickly. Others boast about how long their anodes last. That’s a concern as well, as it’s a sign they aren’t working. 

How do Sacrificial Anodes Work?

Anodes utilize a process known as cathodic protection, where the anode sacrifices itself to protect the cathode, which can be any protected metal, propeller, thru-hull, strut, etc. If the two are in contact or connected by a conductor (resistance between anode and cathode cannot exceed one ohm; it’s a lofty standard that often is not achieved because of corroded or loose connections), and both are immersed in the same electrolyte, sea or freshwater, the anode will afford protection to the cathode. The goal is to equip the vessel with the right amount of cathodic protection, i.e., an adequate number of anodes.  

Every metal has a resting voltage, graduated in thousandths of a volt or millivolts (mV), and DC, which in turn is measured using a silver/silver-chloride reference electrode sometimes called a reference cell. These voltages (all are negative with just a few exceptions) are detailed in a chart referred to as the Galvanic Series of metals in seawater. The resting voltage of silicon bronze, for instance, is -260mV to -290mV; aluminum alloys is from -760mV to -1,000mV, and 316 stainless steel in still water (making it more corrosion-prone) is -430mV to -550mV. 

To provide the proper amount of protection, any metal must be driven more negative with an anode by a minimum of 200mV. With that in mind, protection ranges for seawater are as follows: 

⊲ aluminum: -950 mV to -1,100 mV;

⊲ a fiberglass vessel with common underwater metals excluding aluminum: -750 mV to -1,100 mV (a range more conservative than that dictated by ABYC Standards); 

⊲ a timber hull with common underwater metals other than aluminum: -550 mV to -600 mV, steel hulls -850 mV to -1,100 mV.  

It’s worth noting that while most metals can’t be harmed by overprotection, aluminum is an exception as it’s amphoteric (it is affected by both acid and base solutions). Overprotection creates an alkaline or base solution around protected metals; therefore, aluminum protection should not exceed -1,100mV. 

Overprotection can also be harmful to the hulls of timber vessels adjacent to bonded, protected underwater metals. In a process known as delignification, the alkaline solution attacks the soft material between the grain structure.

Testing

Testing assesses the protection level, determines if the right number/mass of anodes is present, and if they are properly located. Testing can also identify a problem, such as rapid consumption of anodes or corrosion of underwater metals.  

Testing is conducted with the vessel afloat, in calm water, with shore power unplugged (not just turned off), and no onboard equipment running. Using the aforementioned silver/silver-chloride reference electrode attached to at least a 20-foot-long marine-grade wire, plug it into the negative terminal of a multimeter with the scale set to volts DC (millivolts if that’s an option). The positive lead is plugged into the meter and then connected to the metal that is to be measured. If the vessel is bonded, meaning all underwater metals are connected to each other and to an anode, then connect the positive lead to a clean (if it is dirty, clean it with a Scotch-Brite pad) section of the bonding system (a bolt, bus bar, or terminal). 

Drop the reference electrode over the side, about two feet below the surface making sure it does not touch the hull. Take your reading and compare it to the ranges given above for various vessels and metals. If the vessel is not bonded, then each metal will need to be measured individually. This may require lengthening the wire for the reference cell. 

For the most part, the propeller and shaft will require their own testing because their connection to the bonding system is tenuous at best as it passes through the transmission, which is an oil-filled medium, thus a poor conductor. Shaft brushes are most commonly available and inexpensive but incapable of achieving the required one ohm or less resistance needed for proper cathodic protection. 

Ultimately, I recommend that all underwater metals be individually tested even if they are bonded, as any significant difference will be an indication of a bonding system issue. An unbonded metal that has no anode protection will read its resting voltage, which should correspond to the Galvanic Series.

An important step after the testing is complete is to connect the shore power cord while leaving the power off. If any of the readings change by more than a few mV, then the vessel lacks isolation from the dockside shore power ground, which means it needs a galvanic isolator. If it already has one, it’s either not working or is improperly installed. Without isolation from the shoreside ground, your vessel is vulnerable to issues created by other nearby vessels or the dock itself. If you plug in on a regular basis, a galvanic isolator is cheap insurance. 

-by Steve D’Antonio

Decked Out

Decked Out

The inside track on replacement flooring

Boat decks aren’t often treated favorably. Sunscreen, saltwater, beer, potato chips, motor oil, fish blood, and bird droppings are ground onto the deck or into carpet fibers, then spread into every nook and cranny. When it’s time to clean it, you find it’s chemically bonded to the deck. The only way to fix this mess is complete removal and replacement. 

Take a deep breath. While replacing boat carpet or decking isn’t something you do regularly, there are new products that will make you wonder why you ever stuck with what you have now.

EVA (ethylene-vinyl acetate) and PE (polyethylene) foam, PVC, and woven vinyl are four leading types of boat decking. Closed-cell EVA and PE foam don’t absorb water and are UV resistant. PVC decking looks like teak from afar but is non-skid and impervious to stains. Woven vinyl fabric is soft to the touch and won’t fade for many years. Some boatbuilders use these products on new builds, and in other cases, the owner refurbishes a boat with the new decking or has a professional do the job. 

Preparing the old surface for the new covering can be the most challenging phase of the project. For boat owners, this can be as easy as providing a credit card number to a local installer or as difficult as doing it yourself. 

For example, renowned barefoot-skier Mike Frankenbush of Boca Raton, Florida, recently hired Marine Customs of Melbourne, Florida, to lead the flooring-replacement project on his 20-foot Sanger DXII Barefooter towboat. Frankenbush is a National Barefoot Waterski Champion and teaches waterskiing, barefooting, and wakeboarding from his Sanger towboat to students of all ages (walkinonwaterski.com).

“The boat’s a 2001, and the flooring was original, but the carpet was replaced about ten years ago,” says Frankenbush. “Removal of the carpet was relatively easy, and we had to prep the wood with some resin so that the new flooring would stick to it better.”

Ryan Hofstetter, co-owner of Marine Customs, explained how the project came together, using the product U-DEK for the new EVA/PE cross-linked, closed-cell marine foam decking. 

“The most important step of Mike’s project was the initial consultation,” he says. “This allowed us to fully understand the current state of Mike’s boat, whether or not there were any time constraints, and what was the expected end goal.”

Next, Marine Customs had to create a template of all areas to be covered. The team used a scanner to fully digitize the flooring layout. With the digitized template, the CAD (computer-aided design) team took over for the creative side of the process to begin. The custom design included having the logos of two of Frankenbush’s major sponsors, Bank First and Innovative Marine Designs, built into the U-DEK flooring.

Andrew Howard of Howard Marine Services in Pompano Beach prepared the old surface for installation. “We removed all the upholstery, repaired the plywood floor and substrate, and filled voids to make it smooth,” he says. “The center hatches were shot and the flooring was starting to flex. Now the boat is extremely strong and good for another twenty years.” 

After the surface was thoroughly cleaned and repaired, the decking was laid out for a final dry fit of all pieces before any material was permanently stuck to ensure the best fit and finish as designed.

“With a design layout completed and all aspects of the design phase approved by Mike, our team began preparations for the fabrication process of Mike’s custom flooring which involved laminating our U-DEK material with our 3M adhesives and preparing our CNC machine and tooling for the fabrication process ahead,” Hofstetter says. 

Once the fabrication was completed, the team coordinated a return visit to Mike’s boat for the last step of the process, the installation.

“The hardest thing from our side is being diligent to line up the pieces of the puzzle,” says Hofstetter. 

Frankenbush says the flooring should last up to 10 years depending on weather and sun conditions. If the floor needs to be replaced again, it should be easy because the patterns are already measured. 

“I love the fact that I could be as creative as I wanted putting any type of logo or art on there,” he adds. “With my old surface, the carpet would get mildew and stay wet for weeks if I didn’t take a wet vac to it. This type of flooring literally dries in fifteen to twenty minutes just by sitting in the sun. No one wanted to sit on my wet, soggy carpet, and now they have no problem sitting on this new floor. It’s relatively soft and almost always dry.” marinecustoms.net

-by Doug Thompson

Solar Panels for your Boat

Free Energy

The lowdown on solar panel selection and installation

Sunshine and boats are a natural together, so why not use all that free energy? The strategy behind solar power on board is simple: A solar panel converts sunlight into electricity, after which wiring conducts it to your batteries for storage until needed. Solar panels are used to keep batteries or banks charged rather than run equipment directly. This arrangement allows the panels to store energy whenever generated, while providing a steady source of power to a piece of equipment even when the panel is not producing it. 

While they do require an initial outlay, solar panels can easily pay for themselves in money saved and independence gained over their service life. They’re noiseless, have no moving parts, and they provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance. 

How They’re Used

Almost every boat can benefit from solar energy. Smaller craft (whether at a slip, mooring, or on a trailer) can keep their batteries charged without the need for shoreside power. Larger vessels can use solar power to supplement or even replace other onboard charging sources, reducing or eliminating the need to run engines or generators to keep batteries topped off. 

Solar panels are also modular, letting you start small and add more units as your power requirements increase.

Catching Rays 

Solar panels contain photovoltaic cells, small silicon semiconductor devices that convert sunlight into electricity. Each cell generates between 0.45 and 0.5 volts, depending on exposure to direct sunlight. Cell size determines amperage, with a 3-inch cell producing roughly 2 amps, a 4-inch cell a little over 3 amps, and a 5-inch cell around 5 amps. 

Construction-wise, the three main types of solar panels are monocrystalline, polycrystalline, and amorphous (or thin-film) technology. 

Monocrystalline panels have been around the longest. They contain thin slices of crystal silicon housed in a rigid, aluminum frame and covered with tempered shatterproof glass. They’re the most efficient of the three types (around 17 percent) and have the highest electrical output per area but are also the most expensive. 

Polycrystalline cells are sliced from a cast silicon block and have a shattered glass appearance. Built in much the same way as monocrystalline panels, they’re rectangular, giving the panel itself a tiled look. Their life span is similar to monocrystalline panels, and while their conversion efficiency is lower (14 percent), they’re also a bit less expensive. 

Amorphous panels (aka thin-film photovoltaic cells or TFPV) are made by placing a thin film of active silicon on a solid or flexible backing (such as stainless or aluminum sheeting) depending on whether the panel is to be rigid-framed and glass-fronted or flexible. 

Amorphous panels are the least expensive of the three types; however, their efficiency is also lower, about 8 percent or roughly half that of a monocrystalline type. This lower output is somewhat mitigated in newer panels, which use three-layer construction. Each layer absorbs different colors of the solar spectrum, so the panel will deliver more power longer each day and during low-light conditions than the other two types. 

Planning the System

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on knowing what you want the system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a battery or supplement an overall vessel energy plan? Answering these questions up front will help determine the type, size, and number of panels needed. 

To understand the process better, let’s walk through the basic steps to determine power requirements and considerations for a single solar panel installation. While the example itself is simple, the steps are the same used to plan more complicated installations. 

For our example, the goal is to install a solar panel to provide charging for a 12-volt, 100-amp hour wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel. The first step is compiling a daily power consumption estimate so we can determine how much solar power is needed.

The daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly 1 percent, meaning that 100-amp hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours just to maintain the status quo. The anchor light draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, and we’ll assume operates 10 hours each night. Multiplying current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) is a daily energy expense of .5 amps. 

This means our solar panel must meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps—one amp of battery self-discharge rate plus .5 amps of power draw for the anchor light. 

Next is figuring out panel size and the best mounting location. For our example, let’s assume the panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt, horizontally mounted panel should generate between three to five amp hours per day. We’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge our 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with at least 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts.

Keep in mind that’s the minimum needed, which may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome problems like cloudy days or inherent electrical resistance within the panel or installation components. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you should install a solar charge controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging. 

Hybrid Systems and “Charge Controller Confliction”

If your vessel has multiple charging sources, such as solar panels and a wind turbine, one crucial consideration that is often overlooked is charge controller confliction. In a nutshell, charge controller confliction is an issue where the charge controllers for your solar panels and wind turbine are fighting each other to be the dominant power generator, resulting in diminished charging output and performance. An in-depth article on this issue can be found here (missioncriticalenergy.com). 

-by Frank Lanier

Anchoring in the Bahamas

Anchoring in the Bahamas

Tips to safely anchor without disrupting your surroundings

Ahhh…anchored in the Bahamas. Your cruising dream for as long as you can remember. At last, you have crossed the Gulf Stream and arrived aboard your own boat. If this is a dream, don’t wake me up! 

After clearing Customs and Immigration, pick up the latest rules and regulations for visiting this island paradise. Take down your yellow quarantine flag, hoist the Bahamian courtesy flag, and start your adventure of a lifetime. Now, let’s find a good anchorage.

Before Leaving the States

Trip planning begins long before you leave the dock and should include a few anchoring options that are weather-dependent. Bring a cruising guide along to show you the better anchoring locations, dinghy docks, and beaches. Many national parks have moorings or specific boundaries to help protect the coral and sea grass. So, find a sheltered cove, but do not anchor outside the sandy areas when selecting your perfect location.

Preparations to cruise also include reviewing the equipment you have aboard. What kind of anchor and rode do you have? Anchors are designed for a specific sea floor bottoms. What works for you in the muddy Gulf of Mexico or rocky sea floor of Maine may not hold well in the sandy hard pan of the Bahamas. A second anchor for backup with sufficient rode is a consideration most cruisers will heed as well before leaving their home port.

Anchor Designs for Good Holding

We recommend either a concave or convex plow anchor for the hard pan, sandy bottoms found throughout the Bahamas. The convex or concave plow design allows the heavier pointed end of the solid shank anchor to dig down into the sand and set. A hinged shank may interfere with the point digging in. 

Consider how much rode you have and how deep the waters of the Bahamas are where you plan to anchor. Most anchor locations are about 10 feet, but in strong wind, we let out a lot more rode to keep the anchor from dragging. Many boats have 250-plus feet of rode attached to the primary anchor which will serve you well. 

All Sand is Not the Same

If you see a sandy sea bottom, it is likely that limestone hard pan or marl is just a few inches under the loose sand. This hard underlayer may cause your anchor to slide along and not dig into the sea floor. The solid shank plow-style anchor with a weighted point will help dig down beneath the hard layers.

So, select an anchorage, figure your scope, and deploy your anchor while easing in reverse. When the desired rode is deployed, secure it to your boat with the rope rode on a cleat or by using a chain snubber rope to a cleat. Then pull the anchor rode backward to see if the anchor bites into the sea floor. The rode will stretch and the bow will dip a bit. 

A bonus of anchoring in the crystal-clear waters of the Bahamas is that you get to dive on your anchor to confirm it is set deep into the sea floor. Grab your mask and fins, hop overboard in the clear waters, and ensure the anchor is set.

Bahamian Mooring or Traditional

Some cruisers may talk about a Bahamian mooring, when two anchors are set off the bow at 180 degrees from each other. This still requires proper scope on both anchors but will limit your swing. As many years as we’ve been cruising, the Bahamian mooring method is rarely used unless in a very tight anchorage with many boats.

We prefer the traditional anchor style where the boat will swing freely with the wind and tide. When approaching an anchorage, ask the boaters already at anchor what works for them. The more crowded the anchorage, the tighter your swing must be to fit everyone in. Try to go where it is less crowded for more swing room with a traditional anchoring set up. If you deploy a lot of rode, consider attaching a trip line and buoy with your boat’s name on it so others can see where your anchor is located.

Dreams Do Come True

Safely at anchor, you can bask in the beauty of the Bahamas. Count the fish swimming by and the conchs slowly traversing the sandy bottom. A real treat is to watch the sea floor at night with a full moon or a flashlight to attract sea life.

Enjoy the Bahamas and respect their natural surroundings. Do not allow your anchor to destroy their coral reefs or sea grasses. Share your photos with others still dreaming back home…ahhh. 

-by Capt. Chris Caldwell

Troubleshooting Your Boat’s Air-Conditioning System

Cool and in Control

Learn what to do when the air conditioner stops working.

Ah, paradise. You have traveled to the warmer climates for the adventure of a lifetime, a cruise aboard a bareboat. After months of planning this charter, YOU are the captain. 

Relaxing on the bow, you are first to arrive in this gorgeous anchorage. Remember, sometimes you watch the show and sometimes you are the show, so be kind as you observe varied levels of talent and maritime skill come in throughout the evening. 

It’s dinner time in paradise. The winds have settled, and the balmy weather has turned a bit muggy. No worries, mon. Start the generator to provide 110-volt power to the boat and turn on those lovely air conditioners. Life is good.

Uh-oh. The air-conditioner fan is blowing warm air. Strange that it worked last night at the dock on shore power. What to do? This is hardly an emergency and the charter company can not be reached for advice. So swap your captain’s hat for a detective’s badge and let’s go to work.

Welcome Aboard Checklist

Upon your arrival, the charter company usually does a quick onboard review, including belowdeck items in the engine room. Since this may be your first true bareboat without a captain, the charter company wants to make sure you know the basics: how to check fluids, locate the bilge pumps, operate the VHF radio, use safety equipment, and so on. There is often a test drive to show you the ropes. 

Your checklist is complete, and the boat is yours for the duration of the charter. You are in command. And yes, the air conditioner was on its best behavior on day one. Hmmm.

Time to Cast Off

Enjoying your first night relaxing in the balmy climate, listening to some Caribbean music, and watching the sunset, you are so ready for this big adventure. Your first sunrise in paradise means it is up and at ’em early. You remember to check fluids before starting the engines: main engine oil, transmission fluid, generator oil, and, of course, antifreeze in all engines. Fuel is full, waste tank has only one night’s use, domestic water tank is topped to the brim. Sea cocks are open, blowers are operating, and you start the engines. With the comforting purr of the mains, you shut down all other unnecessary systems and unplug shore power. Yup, one of the last things you did was turn off the wonderfully cool air conditioner.  

Your crew prepares to cast off and away you go. Cruising around the sunny, clear waters all day is amazing with a breeze to keep you comfortable. At the day’s end, after a successful mooring ball pick up, you shut down the main engines for your first night away from the dock.

Troubleshoot 

The air conditioner worked perfectly while at the dock on shore power but is not cooling now on generator power. The generator is running and is providing power. You check other appliances, which are all working as expected. In fact, the air-conditioner fan is blowing, but cold air is not coming out. What is different?

Marine air conditioners are water-cooled and have a centrifugal water pump in the bilge that pulls raw water in from beneath the boat. Here is a great idea: Inspect the sea cock to confirm it is open. You may have bumped it closed while checking fluids in the engine spaces earlier. Okay, that’s open. Next, look into the strainer to see if it is fouled with any sea creatures or debris. That’s fine, too, and clean as a whistle. 

Finally, you check the water pump to see or feel if it is running. Ta-da! You found the culprit. The pump is NOT pumping water to cool the refrigerant compressor. 

Marine air conditioners need the constant flow of raw water to cool the hot refrigerant in the compressor unit. Without the cooling water flow, the refrigerant will heat up. When it overheats, you may see a High-Pressure Fault in the air-conditioning system. Some digital air-conditioner controllers show what looks like a HI P5 code that really means HI PS for High Pressure. Look for an overboard stream of air-conditioner water being pumped out after cooling the compressor. No water, no cooling and the air conditioner will fault in a High-Pressure mode.

Problem Solved

Now you discovered the problem—the water pump is not running. So how do you solve the issue? Go to the master circuit breaker panel. Look at the Alternating Current panel to see if the air conditioner water pump circuit breaker is in the ON position! Oops, it was still off. Flip it to the ON position, and the problem is solved! 

You are the hero. Take a bow. You and your crew are now enjoying a cool evening in air-conditioned comfort. Ah, paradise…. 

-by Capt. Chris Caldwell

Captains Chris & Alyse Caldwell are USCG 100-ton Masters and cruising coaches who offer personal boat training online or onboard your boat anywhere. The Caldwells help build your cruising confidence with hands-on training, with their AskCaptainChris.com training videos, through two-day seminars filled with tons of tips for the boater who loves learning, and now remote learning. If you have additional questions for Captains Chris or Alyse, please email them at chris@captainchrisyachtservices.com.

How to Clean Vinyl Boat Seats

Clean That Vinyl

Take precautions before seats stain.

A friend purchased a used center console that was in really good condition. Other than some tune-up work on the engines, it was in great shape, including the seats. On his first day out with family, he learned a valuable lesson: Don’t let anyone on board with a brand-new bathing suit that hasn’t been washed. At the end of the day, there was a blue stain on one of the vinyl seats, and it had no intention of being washed out. 

Mold and mildew are the primary enemies of vinyl seats, but stains from clothing, life jackets, floating cushions, sunscreen, and makeup can also be a nuisance. There are many home remedies and vinyl cleaning products that help remove stains starting with the most basic, soap and water, but when the going gets tough, be cautious with chemicals and abrasive cleaners.

It’s always best to check with the manufacturer of the fabric for recommended cleaning instructions, but that isn’t always an option, especially with pre-owned boats. Marine vinyl is porous and will stain if items are left on the seats long enough, including sunscreen, food, spilled drinks, cardboard, life jackets, even leaves. Don’t forget to take wet clothes and towels in when back at the dock; the moisture can turn your seats into a mold and mildew experiment. 

The safest treatment is warm water with dish soap. Dawn dish soap is a favorite because it is designed to erase grease without harming what it touches. Try to make it a habit to wipe down the seats, bolsters, and coaming on a regular basis; prevention is key.

“For Sunbrella marine fabrics, clean with mild soaps, detergents, or diluted bleach mixtures,” says Bill McDaniel, marine market manager at Glen Raven, manufacturer of Sunbrella fabrics.

Sunbrella suggests the following for general or light cleaning:

⊲ Brush off any loose dirt.

⊲ Prepare a cleaning solution of a quarter-cup mild soap, such as Woolite or Dawn dishwashing liquid, per gallon of lukewarm water.

⊲ Use a sponge or a soft bristle brush to clean.

⊲ Allow cleaning solution to soak into fabric.

⊲ Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue.

⊲ Allow fabric to air dry.

 

For spot cleaning:

⊲ Apply a light mist of mild soap and water using a spray bottle.

⊲ Work the solution into the stain by lightly scrubbing the area with a sponge or very soft bristle brush.

⊲ Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue.

⊲ Blot excess moisture with a clean, soft towel or sponge.

⊲ Air dry. 

⊲ Repeat steps 3 and 4 until all soap residue is removed.

“For heavier cleaning needs, we recommend products such as 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner, Dawn, or Resolve,” says McDaniel. Sunbrella does not recommend products with mild abrasives in the formula, like Soft Scrub, because they may distort the vinyl’s topcoat, such as the one used on Sunbrella’s Horizon Marine Vinyl, which features an innovative technology that prevents microbial pinking, a stain created by the organisms in a specific strain of bacteria prevalent in the marine environment. “When using a bleach solution, protect the area around your Sunbrella fabric as the bleach may discolor non-Sunbrella fabrics. As a general rule, it’s good to not over-apply cleaner on any marine fabric. For Sunbrella specifically, we recommend using only a soft bristle brush as necessary versus tools with harsh, abrasive bristles.”

To clean stubborn stains and mildew, Sunbrella suggests:

⊲ Prepare a solution of 1 cup of bleach and a quarter-cup mild soap per gallon of water.

⊲ Spray on entire area and allow to soak into the fabric for 15 minutes.

⊲ Remove stain with a sponge, clean towel, or very soft bristle brush.

⊲ Rinse thoroughly to remove all soap residue.

⊲ Allow fabric to air dry.

When stains really get tough, it may come down to the choice of removing the stain with some surface damage to the vinyl or pulling out the credit card for new seats or upholstery.

Will Owen, co-founder of JetBoatPilot, a Panama City, Florida-based supplier of jet boat accessories, had rubber roofing compound fall through a skylight opening in the warehouse onto the seat cushions of a boat. Although the general consensus is to stay away from Mr. Clean MagicEraser, this was an extreme situation.

Armed with Purple Power cleaner/degreaser (50-50 mix with water), a MagicEraser, paper towels, a toothbrush (for patterned stitching), rubber gloves, and a bucket of water, he was able to remove the stains, although he notes that using the MagicEraser will change the grain in the upholstery, so this is only for an emergency scenario, such as with my friend’s boat. 

In all cases, be sure to follow the cleaning process with a vinyl protectant to help condition the material, protect it from UV rays, and extend the life of the vinyl. Products from Meguiar’s, 303, Boat Juice, Star brite, and 3M work well. 

Remember to keep your seats covered or clean them regularly to keep them fresh for your days on the water—and watch out for those new bathing suits. 

Galley hacks to keep the party going

Entertaining Emergencies

Galley hacks to keep the party going no matter what fails

You have invited a half-dozen folks to join you for a day on the boat that’ll include cocktails and dinner on the hook. Halfway through the party, your galley fails. Here are some tricks to get past the crisis and have a fun evening.

Stovetop and Oven are Kaput

You are just about to cook the main course, and the stovetop and oven stop heating. After checking the power and making sure all the connections are good, you’re faced with an impending disaster.

On our previous boats, at anchor without a genset, we learned some valuable lessons about cooking without power—use the grill. We did everything on the grill, including grilling bacon, toasting bread, making eggs in a cast iron skillet, and drip coffee (using coffee from pods, paper towels, and a strainer) with water also heated on the grill.

However, we don’t have a grill on our Fleming 55, so when the oven and stovetop died on a cruise up the Intracoastal Waterway, I learned to cook in the microwave, something I had avoided doing for years.  

Microwave in Minutes

Many boats now have excellent convection microwaves that will cook and brown food, but we have an older version on our boat, so we figured out how to steam or braise in the microwave, too. In fact, the microwave cooks fish, shellfish, and chicken perfectly, as well as veggies and grains like couscous, orzo, white rice, and small pasta. Just put grains and required water in a bowl, cover, and microwave a few minutes at a time on high until water is absorbed and grains are cooked.

For steamed fish, shellfish, chicken, and raw vegetables, put in a microwave-safe dish with a tablespoon of water, a drizzle of oil, salt, pepper, and spices, and cover with plastic wrap. Place in microwave and cook on high:

⊲ 1-2 minutes for thin fish fillet

⊲ 2-3 minutes for shrimp, scallops, squid, and most vegetables (corn, broccoli, asparagus)

⊲ 3-4 minutes for 1-inch-thick fish fillet

⊲ 4-5 minutes for chicken breast or thighs and root vegetables

Let it sit covered until the rest of your dinner is ready. Top with condiments, such as tomato sauce, pesto, hoisin sauce, oyster sauce, barbecue sauce, or butter, herbs, and garlic (heated a few seconds in the microwave) and serve on shredded cabbage or lettuce or with rice or pasta. 

What do you do if you were planning on burgers, sausages, steaks, or chops? Clearly with no broiler, grill, or stovetop for searing, they will not be appealing. Instead: 

⊲ Slice steaks and chop thin, and heat in broth in the microwave for 1 minute or so. Serve in sandwiches, subs, wraps, or fajitas with lettuce, tomatoes, onions, peppers, and cheese. 

⊲ Burgers and ground meats can be crumbled and heated on high for several minutes in broth, a mixed taco seasoning, cheese, and peppers and placed atop tortilla chips for nachos or with hoisin sauce, raw onions, peppers, and shredded carrots or cucumbers for Asian lettuce wraps.

As for baking, it’s time to go to your instruction manual (or Google your microwave info) to determine how best to do so. I haven’t reached that point…yet.

Freezer on the Fritz 

At a summer dinner aboard for six, we wanted to surprise guests by serving ice cream sundaes. To my dismay, I opened the freezer and found a half-gallon of soft ice cream. I immediately shoved the ice cream in the refrigerator to keep it cool.

I switched dessert to cold Brandy Alexanders and cookies—not quite as impressive, but a great use for the ice cream. Using equal parts brandy, chocolate fudge sauce, and melted ice cream, alongside a couple of cookies, I was able to serve the dessert, and no one knew about the crisis.

I don’t have a solution for melted ice (other than buy a new bag or beg for ice from neighbors and place in a cooler), but after all of my ice melted on a rendezvous, I learned to put liquor, wine, and mixers in the refrigerator at the start of a cruise so we would always have a cold drink without ice, if necessary. In fact, on this cruise, I quickly made a pitcher of sangria with refrigerated white wine, brandy, and cold fruit juice, along with cut-up fruit, and that pleased most people who came aboard. 

Here are a few “entertaining emergency” cocktail recipes I’ve picked up over the years:

Brandy Alexanders

4 oz. brandy

4 oz. dark crème de cacao liqueur or liquid chocolate fudge sauce

4 oz. ice cream 

Freshly grated nutmeg or drizzle of fudge sauce

Mix ingredients in a pitcher, pour into cocktail glasses, garnish with nutmeg or fudge sauce.

Sangria

1 medium apple (cored, skin on, chopped into small pieces) 

1 medium orange (rind on, sliced, seeds removed)

3-4 Tbsp. sugar 

¾ cup orange juice

1/3 cup brandy 

1 bottle (750 ml.) dry red or white wine

Add apples, oranges, and sugar to a large pitcher and muddle with a spoon for 45 seconds. Add orange juice, brandy, and wine, and stir to incorporate. Taste and add more sugar, brandy, or juice, if desired. Stir to combine. 

When the generator wouldn’t start, and we had lots of frozen and cold food aboard, we used the valuable lessons learned from home power outages to preserve food. The refrigerator will keep food cold for about four hours if it is unopened, so use up fridge food first or fill up your freezer with fresh food to keep it cold. A full freezer will keep the temperature for approximately 48 hours. 

Let us know some of your lessons learned when the galley appliances went down. Email sbletters@southernboating.com. 

-by Lori Ross

From the Beginning – History of Southern Boating

From the Beginning

Southern Boating’s DIY roots

In September 1972, Volume 1, Number 1 of Southern Boating magazine appeared on newsstands around the Miami, Florida, area. It’s September 2021, and Volume L, Number 1
signifies 50 years of a monthly publication created by Skip Allen Sr. It may have started out as a do-it-yourself project, but through the minds of many boating enthusiasts, the magazine remains an integral member of the boating industry.

Allen was an ardent sailor, yachtsman, publisher, and family man who was passionate about life. He began his publishing career in New York with The Motor Boating Magazine (later known as Motor Boating and Sailing, then MotorBoating) and raised his boys sailing out of the Larchmont Yacht Club. It was there that Skip Allen Jr. “cut his teeth” on boating through frostbite sailing and the family’s 13-foot Boston Whaler. 

In the late 1960s, Skip Allen Sr. took the family down to Miami because working for a family-owned business was much more appealing than the corporate world of Hearst Publications. Enter Bertram Boats, until they, too, turned to corporate status when they were sold to the Whittaker Corporation, which led him back to a family-owned business. This time it was his family, and Southern Boating & Yachting, Inc. producing Southern Boating magazine was born. 

Skip Sr. and his wife Joanne started operations from their home in Miami Beach using their house telephone to make business calls, but when it came time for Joanne to collect payment from advertisers, she was reluctant to call as an Allen because they were also the sales team. Skip Sr.’s philosophy was that sales shouldn’t collect the money because it could create an awkward relationship. To resolve the matter, a new staff member was “hired.” Joe Pelican became Southern Boating’s business manager who worked from a “remote location.” 

Throughout the years, many of Southern Boating’s friends and readers have come to know Joe Pelican. After all, he was on the masthead, but for those that don’t know, “Joe” is short for Joanne, and on their frequent trips cruising the Bahamas with their six children, pelicans were regular cruisers right along with them. Even in their backyard in Miami Beach, pelicans were everyday visitors and would fish the waters morning and night. To the Allens, pelicans represented independence and strength, could fend for themselves, and could fly coast to coast on a whim. Also, a pelican’s beak is large enough to feed an entire family in one swoop, an attribute the parents of six kids could appreciate. Thus, Joe Pelican was born. Skip Jr. took over for Joe in 1975. 

Yachting was Skip Sr.’s passion, and he spent as much time as he could aboard his first Press on Regardless, a Grand Banks 50, at his home and in the Bahamas. He loved talking boats and through conversations about cruising over to the Bahamas, he learned how many boaters wanted to take that trip but were unsure about making the crossing alone. Paper charts were the only navigational aid back then, unlike today’s GPS systems, so he spearheaded the Bahamas Piloted Cruise in 1977, which was a two-week guided trip across the straits and into the Bahamas with a guide on the lead boat and a certified mechanic on the tail-end boat in case anyone needed mechanical help. After Joanne’s death, Skip Sr. remarried and moved Southern Boating to Fort Lauderdale where he and his wife Helen lived aboard the second Press on Regardless, an Angel 1985 60-foot Custom Med Yacht, at the Lauderdale Yacht Club and spent several months a year in the Bahamas. Through his love of boating and enormous contributions to the maritime industry, Skip Sr. became a true nautical icon.

Skip Sr.’s greatest love, though, was his family, and he instilled a love of everything boating in each of his six children and seven grandchildren. Even though Skip Jr. continued sailing the sheets over blue water with the Southern Ocean Racing Circuit and the Storm Trysail Club, he was never far from a power boat, testing new designs for his dad at Bertram and taking adventures with his brother Rick. He grew up in boating and to this day shares his father’s passion that inspired the belief (and our catchphrase) that Southern Boating is “more than a location, it’s a way of life.” 

George Lyle “Skip” Allen took his final voyage in 2014, but his legacy lives on through his son, Skip Allen Jr., who has continued to build Southern Boating Media into a well-known brand in the print, digital, and social media formats. From Miami to Fort Lauderdale, and now in Pompano Beach.

Southern Boating celebrates 50 years and will never lose sight of its roots. True to Skip Sr.’s desire to strike out on his own with a do-it-yourself attitude, Southern Boating was built upon the solid foundation of family. Along with a little help from friends, the Southern Boating family will create new memories for years to come.

DIY: Picking the Right Spotlight

Under the Spotlight

Bright ideas for selection and installation

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating 2021

Spotlights are one of those indispensable boat tools you never really appreciate until they’re needed. From finding navigation hazards to signaling other boats, if you sail at night (either on purpose or due to unplanned circumstances) a spotlight is essential.

They can be grouped into two basic categories: fixed mount and portable. Both have pros and cons which can help you select the one that best suits your needs.

Fixed or Portable

Fixed or permanently mounted spotlights provide convenience and instant access when needed. While old-school spotlights were typically operated manually, most modern units are remotely operated using a keypad and internal electric motor to provide azimuth and elevation control.

They can mount on a hardtop but also forward on a bow railing, deck, or other suitable location. Some units, like the Golight Stryker GL-3067, feature a wireless remote, allowing you to control the spotlight from anywhere on board.

Mounting a fixed spotlight as far forward as practical is normally preferred; however, when selecting a location, be sure to consider problematic issues such as backscatter or glare. A hardtop-mounted unit can blind the helmsman by lighting up the bow or foredeck during operation.

Conversely, a unit mounted on the bow railing can vibrate excessively while the vessel is underway making it difficult to aim the light or keep it on target. In such cases, mounting the unit directly to the foredeck will likely be a better option.

One way to ferret out any potential problems when selecting a location is to temporarily mount the unit first. This allows you to see how it performs before firing up that drill or hole saw. That’s also the time to look at any installation issues with mounting (such as access below for mounting hardware) or routing control and power wires.

Portable or handheld spotlights can also be divided into two groups: wired and battery-powered.

Wired units plug into your boat’s 12 VDC system using a cigarette-lighter receptacle or other such connection. The best ones feature a locking plug which prevents you from accidentally pulling out the plug during use (something that typically happens at the worst possible moment). While power outlets are normally installed at the helm, other handy locations include the bow, flybridge, or even the engine compartment.

Battery-powered spotlights offer the freedom to move about the boat without regard for outlet locations or cord length. The downside is that, unlike wired spotlights (which will have power as long as your batteries are being charged), battery-powered spotlights have a finite amount of operating time.

Regardless of which handheld style you select, some features are desirable for both. First, choose a unit that’s waterproof and armored with rubber to protect against drops and bangs. A short visor or protrusion that extends past the lens will reduce glare and help save your night vision.

Other considerations include the type of handle (“pistol grip” designs are easier to aim and hold), weight (lighter may be more comfortable to use, but heavier typically means a bigger battery and longer operation), and battery type, specifically rechargeable or nonrechargeable batteries.

Rechargeable batteries are the winner hands down in most every case. If you choose a nonrechargeable battery-powered spotlight, it goes without saying (but here it is anyway): Keep spare batteries on hand. Chances are they’ll also die at the worst possible moment.

Finally, a unit with various light intensity settings is also a plus. Multiple settings allow you to maximize battery life while saving the brightest, battery-sucking mode for when you need it most.

You and Your Lumens

While grandad may talk about candlepower or watts, lumens (lm) are the new way of gauging how bright that new spotlight really is. Lumens are a measure of the total amount of visible light to the human eye. The higher the lumen rating, the “brighter” the light will appear.

Thanks to modern LED technology, using watts as a guide to brightness is also no longer relevant as more light output is achieved with less power consumption.

That being said, higher lumens do not always equate to a better overall spotlight. Everything has trade-offs. While a spotlight with high lumens is brighter, it also generates a greater amount of heat and uses more power, which (in the case of battery-powered units) reduces battery life.

The Last Word: Bulbs

Advances in LED technology have almost rendered this a mute talking point. LED lights can last for decades, a huge advantage over old-school incandescent bulbs (take that Mr. Edison). LEDs are also 80 percent more efficient, which equates to longer battery life and less heat. Traditional bulbs like xenon or halogen waste a large amount of the energy going to the light, which is lost in the form of heat.

Servicing Walker AIRSEP® Air Filters Video Series

Walker AIRSEP Air Filters are designed to keep down noxious gas and oil mist on turbocharged diesel engines. Check out these videos to replace, clean, identify, or get familiar with your AIRSEP system:

How to replace the coalescer filters & service your CCE AIRSEP – VIDEO #1

Learn how to easily replace your internal coalescer (oil mist) filter pak found on the Walker CCE AIRSEP, closed crankcase system for diesel engines. Shows the steps required to replace the internal oil mist filters on a Walker Airsep typically found on marine diesel engines.

How to clean your Walker AIRSEP air filter – VIDEO #2

Follow these easy steps to clean your Walker AIRSEP air filter. Be sure to use genuine Walker AIRSEP Cleaning kits to ensure the longest life for your air filter elements.

Identifying your Walker AIRSEP air filter for easy ordering – Video #3

Learn how to easily identify your Walker AIRSEP air filter. Shows tips to ensure you correctly identify the air filter on a traditional Walker AIRSEP, These air filters are found on “Traditional” Walker AIRSEPS typically installed on older marine diesel engines

Washing Down Your Boat

Wash It Down

Plan out the necessary steps before installing a deck wash down system.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating June 2020

There are basically two types of boat owners: those who enjoy the benefits of having a deck wash down system and the “haters” who wish they did. Everything from fish blood to the evidence that no seasick remedy is foolproof is easier to remove on demand rather than back at the dock when dried to a concrete-like consistency. Installation of a wash down system is within the ability of most DIYers, so, as a shout-out to the haters, here’s how to make it happen.

Water Supply Options

Before grabbing the drill or hole saw, begin by planning out the entire installation (hose runs, pump location, power supply, etc.). One of the first decisions to make is determining the wash down system’s water source. Most are plumbed as a raw-water system, meaning it utilizes the water in which your boat is floating. For boats used in saltwater, this means you’ll still have to deal with the salty residue left behind once back at the dock, but a salty boat is better than a nasty one any day.

Raw-water systems require either a dedicated thru-hull and seacock or connection to an existing system, typically by installing a “T” fitting in the system’s hose. Tapping into an existing system is a common choice as most owners are hesitant to drill holes in their boat. This option also has the benefit of allowing you to complete the installation with the boat in the water by simply shutting off the seacock.

However, use caution when selecting which system you tap into. Some (like engine raw- water intakes) are not suitable choices as doing so could negatively impact the volume of water available to the primary system.

Choosing a Pump

Pump selection and adequate water flow are the most crucial aspects of any wash down system. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to power off anchor chain mud with a wimpy stream of water. The trick is finding a moderately priced pump that not only provides sufficient pressure with minimal power draw but can also stand up to the marine environment.

Output pressure for a typical deck wash down pump ranges from three to 12 gallons per minute with prices of $100 or less to more than $1,000. Buying a deck wash down package (a kit that includes pump, deck fitting, deck hose, etc.) will often save money. Something else to consider when shopping around is the pump’s warranty, which can vary from one to three years (a longer warranty period being better).

Installation Considerations

When selecting a location for your wash down pump, choose an accessible area well above the normal accumulation of bilge water. The pump should be located between the water supply and planned deck outlet, ideally as close as possible to its power source (to simplify wire runs).

As pumps are more efficient at pushing water than pulling, the spot should also be as close as possible to the supply thru-hull.

Be sure the pump installation itself is in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and that it includes an intake strainer between the pump and water intake (to prevent pump damage due to debris).

Pumps vary in their ability to self-prime or lift water vertically in order to start pumping. Some are rated at 8 or 9 feet, while others may only be able to overcome 2 feet of “head” when pumping. Make sure the location you’ve chosen doesn’t exceed the pump’s self-priming ability.

When planning your installation, you’ll also need to determine where to position the deck outlet. Most boat owners simply mount it on the foredeck (close to the anchor) as cleaning ground tackle is often viewed as its primary job; however, there’s no law of the sea stating it has to be there. Installation amidships allows you to use a single, shorter length of hose to reach both bow and stern. Another option is installing two outlets, one in the cockpit and one at the bow.

Regardless of where you decide to install the outlet, make sure you have enough space beneath the deck to accommodate the hose and associated fittings and that you won’t be drilling into anything unexpected (such as wiring or equipment) while cutting the mounting hole. It’s also a good idea to plan out the hose run before starting to verify ease of access to all of the required areas.

When cutting through cored decks, seal the edges of the hole with thickened epoxy to prevent water intrusion into the coring. Bedding the fitting with a suitable marine caulking will also help keep water at bay.

Components of a typical wash down system install:

  1. 12-volt DC wash down pump (marine-grade with pressure switch)
  2. Corrosion-proof through deck fitting
  3. Marine-grade hose
  4. Appropriately sized circuit breaker or fuse
  5. Marine-grade wire and connectors
  6. Stainless steel hose clamps (enough to double clamp each hose transition point)
  7. Intake strainer
  8. Y or T connector

Boat Coating Controversy

Coating Controversy
Wax? Plastic polymers? Ceramic coatings? What’s the deal?

Mother Nature is brutal on boats. Sun, wind, water, and temperature have damaging effects to every material included in the boat’s structure and the goods brought on board. Wood, fiberglass, gel coat, paint, stainless steel, vinyl, plastic, fabric, nylon, wire, you name it, everything is affected by the environment, including the contaminants produced by humans.

It’s a known fact that boats, cars, cowboy boots, snowboards, windshields, skin, swim platforms, and most products do much better when protected by a coating, whether it’s wax, silicone polymer, nano-glass (ceramic), zinc oxide (for skin), or varnish. They repel water and provide lasting protection against the elements.

Polishing is a vital step to produce a glass finish.

Cover it Up

Fiberglass boat hulls have a gel coat outer layer that creates a durable, water and UV-resistant shell that strengthens the fiberglass structure. However, gel coat is porous and susceptible to oxidation, stains, and contaminants. It needs a protective cover, a coating to keep it clean and shiny.

Coatings

Many different coatings are available to protect the boat’s hull—wax, sealant, and ceramic—and they all have variations in their own group. Gel coat is not the same as the clear coat applied over car paint and oxidizes much quicker. Even new boats will have some degree of oxidation even if there’s a shine. (To test it, take a wax and apply it to the worst-looking area, suggests Darren Priest, owner/operator of Auto Fetish Detail. If there’s any difficulty removing the wax, then it’s best to polish out the oxidation before applying boat wax to the rest of the boat.)

  • Wax: Wax has been around a long time, so there are lots of choices in the marine market. They almost all provide a similar level of gloss that will help increase the shine and offer a level of protection from dirt, saltwater, and ultraviolet light when applied to a clean surface. Natural wax is usually durable for six months.
  • Sealants: Sealants are chemically engineered to bond to the surface. They take a little more time to apply, but last longer than wax, about nine months to a year. Some add ingredients to remove old wax and residue when applied and provide a clear, hardened polymer barrier to reduce the slow fade induced from ultraviolet light as well as guard against salt and weather conditions. They can also be used on aluminum and stainless steel surfaces.
  • Ceramic: Ceramic coatings have become more commonplace in the marine market over the last few years because of its claim to last much longer than wax or sealants without re-applying, typically 18-24 months in southern states and 3-4 seasons up north. Ceramic coating is a liquid polymer made from ceramic nanoparticles (usually silicon dioxide or silicon carbide) that are suspended in a clear resin. When it hardens on the surface, it’s chemically bonded to create an impermeable layer that is semi-permanent, meaning it won’t come off unless it’s abraded.

 There are many brands like wax and sealants. “The amount of silica dioxide in the ceramic is the difference between brands,” says Chris Stephan, owner/operator of Astroglaze Autoworks in Fort Lauderdale. “The more silica, the better.” Professional ceramic coatings usually contain 90 percent silica. However, the surface needs extensive preparation for it to secure properly.

Start Clean

Wax will add some shine and help protect the hull from harsh elements. The same is true with plastic polymer sealants as well as ceramic coating. The difference is in the product’s longevity; the similarity is that the surface must be clean when applied, even more so with ceramic as it is semi-permanent.

“Preparation is sometimes a tall mountain to climb,” says Stephan. If a boat is new, the mountain becomes a hill, but if there’s oxidation, stains, dirt, old wax, etc., start with a degreasing bath/wash. For ceramic coating, follow the cleaning with a clay block or mitt treatment using a clay lubrication. “The cleaning material is a clay lube,” says Stephan. “It feels like soapy water, but it’s a detail spray you can just wipe down. There are specific clay lubes, but you want to use a soft lube because the more abrasive ones will scratch. It’s super important to take your time and be thorough during this process.”

Compound buffing is next, and after that, use a priming polishing compound and different pads. Then prep the surface with liquid Prep-Sol (or 70 percent alcohol). “So many people skip or skimp on this part,” says Stephan. “All those buffing hours will go to waste. Each area treated with ceramic must be treated with some kind of liquid prep. This part removes any residual polish or anything. It’s now ready for ceramic coating.

Maintenance and Cost

Washing off the boat after use and wiping it down will help maintain the shine, but eventually, protective coatings will need re-application. Depending on how often you want to perform maintenance, the boat will need wax every three months or so and a ceramic coating will only need a touch-up (not a complete application) every year in order to keep it up to snuff.

Case Study

Glidecoat has studied the effects of ceramic coating on boats, cars, inflatables, airplanes, and even yacht propellers. They utilize a meter to measure the gloss on the surface. A factory new boat will register 82-88 on the scale.

Before ceramic coating prep and application.

On one 24-foot SeaHunter, the initial reading was 9.7. Following the preparation steps, including the alcohol prep, Glidecoat applied two coats of its ceramic coating. After eight hours of curing time, the hull looked like glass and will provide protection up to 18 months. It was the same on a 2004 32-foot Regulator with a dark blue hull. The owner felt he saved about 30 percent in costs compared to what he was previously spending to maintain the boat.

After ceramic coating application

There’s something to be said for the Zen that the wax on/wax off process offers some boaters, and it’s the least expensive way to protect the hull. But no matter what protective coating is used on the hull, none of it is worth it if it’s not maintained. If you want to avoid applying wax every few months, then ceramic may be the best choice. With upkeep, it will certainly last the longest.

How to Install LED Lights on Your Boat

How to Install LED Lights on Your Boat

When you install LED lights on your boat, you’ll boost the mood and lower your bill.

Light-emitting diode (LED) lights became popular in the early 2000s. Since then, prices have dropped and efficiency has increased. Today, more boat owners are switching over to LED lighting as their old incandescent and halogen bulbs burn out. Here’s how to install LED lights on your boat.

Leave it to the pros…maybe

While it makes sense to convert to LEDs, boaters should think about whether the job is DIY or one for a marine service professional.

“As simple as lighting sounds, it really is what you cannot see powering and controlling the lights that make every boat different,” explains Bobby Stone, vice president of DRSA in Riviera Beach, Florida. “For example, a sixty- five-foot Viking is completely different than a forty-foot Marlow. In most cases, the Marlow runs off a battery bank with an inverter, and the Viking has generators plus a few DC circuits.”

An electrical professional can determine the condition and layout of the wiring, input power specifications, check if transformers are in line, and how to install new switches, dimmers, or LED power supplies.

“If simply replacing the existing halogen or incandescent bulbs to LED, end users can do this themselves without requiring a technician,” says Petro Ploumis, president of Apex Lighting in Deerfield Beach, Florida. “We can either just sell the LED lights to the customer, or we can go on the boat to make a design plan and provide the installation as well. It all depends on what the customer wants and the planned budget.”

Selecting the lights

There are multiple factors to consider when selecting LED lighting. Those include light color temperature (Kelvin), desired light output (Lumens), dimming (if the bulbs or fixtures are replaced with LED lights and require dimming, an LED dimmer is necessary). Stone adds that the most common problem many people don’t realize is the low-voltage AC power going to their lights. They assume that because the voltage is 24V, it must be 24VDC. Some older boats have toroidal transformers that step voltage down from 120VAC or 220VAC to 12VAC or 24VAC. While there are LED products on the market that are sold as 12VAC or 24VAC, most will not last long-running at low-voltage AC. The components required to allow the LEDs to operate properly (rectifiers) are usually poor quality or not able to fit the smaller G4 LED bulbs on the market.

Another factor is if the boat has a lighting control system such as Lutron or Crestron. Consider a professional review to determine if additional control components are necessary in this case.

Three ways to install LED lights

Ploumis divides a lighting installation into three categories: Starter, Midrange, and All the Way.

“For the Starter, if the existing light fixtures are not very old and in good condition, we often recommend simply swapping out the halogen bulbs to LED,” he says. “This is as simple as replacing a burned-out halogen bulb and will typically cost around fifteen to twenty dollars.

“For the Midrange, you could remove the old fixtures and replace them with the same dimension LED versions,” he says. “This involves pulling down the old lights and splicing in the new lights. Each fixture will usually cost around seventy to one hundred-and-twenty dollars each.

“To go All the Way would include underwater lights, interior, and engine room,” says Ploumis. “We would suggest changing all the interior overhead lights to LED, engine room lights to LED, exterior ceiling lights to LED, the navigation lights to LED. You could add three to four LED underwater lights, such as the Lumitec Typhoon, Bluefin LED Mako, or OceanLED Explore.”

It’s a win-win

The energy savings, lower heat output, better light output, lower maintenance costs, and desired “wow” effect help the customer determine the value of converting to LED. For a 40-foot cruising vessel, the All the Way costs range from $5,000 to $15,000. However, that depends on the lights and options. For an 80-footer, the costs could be as high as $30,000. Generally, underwater lighting installations should be done by a professional.

“Seamless automation for LED lights is getting more popular,” says Ploumis. “In the past, each brand of LED lights needed its own proprietary dimmer or controller. Slowly, companies are coming out with controllers that can control all your lights seamlessly, just like home automation or systems in modern cars.” Yes, there are apps for that.

Check yourself

But, here’s a final note of caution when purchasing LED bulbs or light fixtures for marine applications. Consumers can find a multitude of options and prices online, so be aware that not all LEDs are the same. Not all can tolerate the fluctuations in voltage with a typical marine electrical system. A marine-grade LED bulb is rated and designed to handle voltage fluctuations up to 30VDC. Electronics on the circuit board incorporate rectifiers, capacitors, and DC-to-DC converters to protect the LED diodes.

“Carefully review all specifications before you buy,” says Stone. “In addition, not all marine electricians are experienced in LED conversions. Take care in selecting a qualified  technician for your installation.”

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating August 2019

Upgrading Your Dashboard? What You Need to Know

Upgrading Your Dashboard

Before buying new electronics, make sure you can upgrade your dashboard.

If your display screens freeze up or the images jump around, it’s probably time for an upgrade. But don’t run to the marine store or go online just yet; first, answer some basic questions to be sure you make the right choices.

Odds are that if your older electronic unit needs repair, it’s time to replace it; repair costs can exceed the value of a new unit, plus you’ll get the latest technology. Age also plays a critical role. If your electronics are more than seven years old, they should be replaced. You’ll also need to answer these questions:

  • Mix or match? Determine what brand of new equipment is right for your setup. Is it best to stay with your existing brand or add units from a different manufacturer?
  • Will it fit? Is there enough room in your dash panel to mount the new equipment?
  • Can I do this myself? Or is this a job for a professional installer? Many factors will help answer you decide.

Up to Standard

Today’s sophisticated marine electronics aren’t always simply plug-and-play. In the last several years, the marine industry has changed the standards as to how electronic units
talk to each other. If you have older equipment, it probably uses the original NEMA 0183 operational system rather than the newest NEMA 2000 standard.

If you’re only replacing one stand-alone unit that is not networked, this won’t affect you, but if you have two or more units that share data (like GPS, chart plotter, depth/temperature, rudder-angle transducers or fish-finder) you need to carefully select the new replacement unit so it will communicate correctly with your existing equipment.

Sure, there are data converters to network the old and new communication systems,
but that path, for a do-it-yourselfer, is not foolproof and may be difficult (or impossible) to achieve. One particularly important note is that radar units have a serious compatibility problem. Older radar units are analog and new ones are digital.

If you’re planning on getting a digital multifunction chartplotter, you’ll have to upgrade your radar to digital because there are no data converters available. Communication system manufacturers also may have certain operational specifications that aren’t compatible with competitors. Most manufacturers caution against cutting and splicing cables which can make mixing/networking one brand with another a difficult task—not impossible, but it’s always best as a do-it-yourselfer to choose the path of least resistance.

There are a variety of adapter cables on the market, but the choices get confusing and each one adds expense and another connection point that can spell trouble over time. Do your homework before you purchase so you have a smooth, headache-free installation.

Dash Space

A big barrier that frequently stops a boater from upgrading equipment is where to mount it. New multifunction displays usually sport a larger screen and simply need more space
than older units. Don’t take a quick measurement and think there’s not enough room. Many manufacturers offer special bezel adapter kits (the bezel is the trim frame around an instrument) that allow you to change equipment sizes in your dash and eliminate the need to cut new holes, patch openings or replace the dash.

If you measure every which way yet can’t seem to find the right amount of dash panel space, there’s still hope. Several companies specialize in fabricating new dash panels, and some offer exact color and finish to match your original dash. A customized dash allows you to relocate gauges you want to keep, such as tachometers, fuel, oil pressure, engine temperature, and alternator status, to make the necessary room for a larger display. Sometimes, just moving the gauges a bit to each side creates the necessary space.

Some dash fabrication companies can even paint the protective covers of your new instruments to match your boat’s factory dash texture and color. The cost is reasonable and contributes to a professional, factory-installed look.

With that in mind, determine the best approach for you. Installing and connecting boat instrumentation can be easy if you’re a good “fix-it” guy and have some prior experience. It can also be a nightmare trying to figure out all the cross-connecting cables and wiring. In that case, hiring a professional installer is always best.

By Joe Curley, Southern Boating July 2019

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