Warmer waters make for cooler cruising. Southern Boating publishes a U.S. Gulf Coast Regional Report each month to make your Gulf Coast cruising a success. Chock-full of information for everywhere from the panhandle of Florida to the tip of Texas—Southern Boating gives you the lowdown on all events, happenings, marinas, destinations, and more!
As a growing home to a fleet of cruise ships exploring the Caribbean, a large stretch of New Orleans’ massive wharfs on the lower Mississippi River have been modified and beautified for passenger traffic, including megayachts. For Superbowl XLVII in 2013, the wharves adjacent to the convention center and just a few blocks from the French Quarter were treated to a rare spectacle of two large yachts—Kismet, the 308′ Lürssen yacht owned by Shahid Khan, who also owns the Jacksonville Jaguars, and Paul Allen’s 414′ Octopus. Now the city of New Orleans is floating the idea of a large megayacht marina on the Mississippi River as part of what could be a massive $1 billion riverfront redevelopment and expansion of their hugely successful convention center.
Centrally located on the Northern Gulf Coast, New Orleans is already home to large recreational marinas, the second oldest yacht club in the western hemisphere, and the sprawling Trinity Yachts boatyards. The city’s historic marina district of West End on Lake Pontchartrain is the home port for Saints owner Tom Benson’s 122′ yacht Lady Gayle Marie and others that regularly transit the lake’s near uniform depth of 12′ and the Rigolets Pass into the deep waters of the Gulf of Mexico to the Caribbean.
The proposed marina would seek to allow vessels walking distance access to the French Quarter and be located on a bend upriver from the central business district and away from the currents and shipping traffic on the nearly mile-wide river. According to officials from the Port of New Orleans, the Mississippi is a fully navigable river and therefore open to recreational vessels, however docking facilities are only currently recommended and available to boats over 100′.
A side benefit of the proposed marina could possibly come in the form of capturing cruisers transiting the Great Loop. With a dearth of facilities and fueling stations located on the long stretch of the river from Memphis to New Orleans, most Loopers opt for the traditional route down the Tombigbee waterway that exits into Mobile Bay in Alabama, but this marina could open up a new alternative route for the more adventurous.
With New Orleans experiencing an unprecedented modern period of growth, gentrification and as a host for major events such as the Superbowl and Mardi Gras, it seems natural for the city to attempt to capitalize more on its natural allure as a cruising destination. Construction of a marina capable of handling large yachts only a few blocks from the French Quarter would go a long way to achieving these goals and allow for yacht owners to realize their fantasy of playing Huck Finn on the mighty Mississippi.
The Gulf of Mexico is a true tropical sea and one of the deepest bodies of water in the world. From the height of a cruise ship, one might not notice that the electric blue expanse is teaming with life from aquatic animals such as giant Kemp-Ridley turtles and recently discovered 55-foot-long Baleen whales. Stirred by the Great Loop Current that flies between Cuba and Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula at over four knots, this current eventually becomes the Gulf Stream that affects the weather and ecology as far away as England. However, this warm current also throws off giant eddies into the Gulf and feeds one of the most unique ecosystems in North America—the Flower Garden Banks.
Located a little over 100 miles offshore of Galveston, Texas, the Flower Garden is the most unique and extensive coral reef system in all of North America and considered to be the most pristine in the entire Western Hemisphere due to its relative remote location. Designated a Marine Sanctuary in 1992 by the U.S., this flourishing ecosystem is made possible by giant underground salt domes that push up the deep, featureless seabed to within 60 feet of the surface and allow an undersea oasis of tropical life. The nearest coral reef is 400 miles south along the coast of Mexico and as such, it has become a secret scuba-diving magnet and cruising layover in the Gulf of Mexico by boat owners in the know.
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First discovered by fishermen in the late 1800s who suddenly noticed bright, vibrant colors beneath the waves, this marine sanctuary is now known to harbor more than 20 species of tropical corals and over 180 species of fish. Comprised of three separate salt domes that rise up and plateau, the largest expands out over 250 acres. As a designated marine sanctuary, fishing and anchoring are not allowed by law, however, there are three mooring fields that are available to transient cruisers in the deep waters of the Gulf of Mexico where the depths below them explode in color.
As a well-known overnight scuba-diving site, charters and private boats tend to visit on two- or three-day excursions primarily in the summer when the water is over 80 degrees. As such, mooring availability may get a bit tight. For cruisers who do not dive, it’s still a unique destination in the great expanse of the Gulf of Mexico to tie up and enjoy the blue waters where colors rise from the depths and the stars follow after sunset. February is also a heavily visited month due to the hordes of thousands of hammerhead sharks that transit the banks annually.
The City of New Smyrna Beach houses an abundant culture of art and history, with a six-mile waterfront loop host to delectable cuisine and unique antique and gift shops. New Smyrna is a celebrated icon of old-fashioned nautical personality that’s worth visiting for miles of soft and sunny beaches alone.
Ready to accommodate visiting cruisers is the brand new deep-water facility of New Smyrna Marina, with 31 slips for boats up to 120′ LOA. Just two and half miles from Ponce Inlet located at channel market 35 on the Intercostal Waterway, New Smyrna Marina welcomes transients with a full line of services and amenities.
The employees of the New Smyrna Marina.The Outrigger Tiki Bar and Grille is one of the many amenities offered at the New Smyrna Marina.Just some of the many boats anchored at the New Smyrna Marina.The New Smyrna Marina is a brand new complex that offers comfortable amenities and first-class service at a convenient location.
Enjoy the convenience of in-slip fueling, 30-, 50- or 100-amp hookups at each slip, an upscale fish cleaning station, a clean, air-conditioned bathhouse with showers, Wi-Fi, a heated swimming pool, fishing tackle and provisioning store, and Outriggers Tiki Bar and Grille. The daily rate is $2 per foot plus electrical or $16 per foot monthly, with slips available for purchase, and utility fees are $25 for a 100-amp cord. In addition, there is an impressive fleet of inshore and offshore fishing charters and pontoon boat rentals.
Contact:
(386) 427-4514 newsmyrnamarina.com
By Christine Carpenter, Southern Exposure
Charlotte Harbor on Florida’s Gulf Coast will have you planning a return trip before you even leave.
Everyone loves a great comeback story. Celebrating with others who triumph over defeat is innate, and that is exactly what the residents of Punta Gorda and the surrounding Gulf Islands share since Hurricane Charley ripped through Charlotte Harbor and left behind ruin in 2004. Today, the coastal community has not only been revitalized in structure but also in spirit, with residents who noticeably take a great deal of pride in the strength, beauty and growth of their city. Punta Gorda beckons cruisers with distinctive art galleries, top-notch seafood restaurants, a revitalized downtown, and its location on the second largest estuary in Florida.
Located between Sarasota and Fort Myers, Punta Gorda is an outdoor enthusiast’s mecca with a handful of convenient marinas within walking distance of downtown. Boca Grande Pass is where the Gulf of Mexico meets Charlotte Harbor and is known as the “Tarpon Capital of the World.” Fisherman’s Village Yacht Basin is located directly on the harbor with no bridge clearance, and is the ultimate “one stop shop” for cruisers with an impressive marina, vibrant shopping and multiple restaurants, cafes and a sweets shop. Villas above each shop include a full kitchen, dining, and living room, and two bedrooms with a full bath.
Laishley Marina on the Peace River is a few nautical miles north of Fisherman’s Village. The Laishley Crab House offers excellent fresh seafood and a full sushi bar at reasonable prices, and when blue crab is in season you can’t go wrong with a flash-fried crab sandwich or fresh crab and avocado salad. Take the Harborwalk from the marina to the Spirit of Punta Gorda sculpture at the end of the waterfront park, which was commissioned by Marilyn Thorndycraft to symbolize the enduring spirit of the local residents. She and the local artist chose metal scraps from the rubble Hurricane Charley left behind to construct a meaningful sculpture of one palm tree bent over and one standing tall.
For more culinary options, head to Harpoon Harry’s at the end of the Fisherman’s Village pier. It overlooks an expansive harbor view and offers the traditional seafood baskets—all fried, all tasty. They also have burgers, salads and traditional fare if your crew is overdosed on seafood. (Is that possible?) Weekend nights attract festive crowds for the local musicians who frequent their indoor stage. For quieter dining with white tablecloths and candlelight, head directly upstairs.
In the same plaza, the Village Fish Market’s slogan is “Traditional New England Seafood.” Owners Sue and Nick Randall hopped the pond from “Old England” 12 years ago to convert this restaurant into a thriving local hotspot. The menu offers modern favorites such as seared ahi tuna and some dynamite scallops with traditional fare such as New England Clam Chowder and Fish & Chips—the combination makes you feel like you’re simultaneously in South Florida, Maine and London. The salted caramel cheesecake is not to be missed, but if you simply do not have room order one to go—you’ll thank me later. After a day on the water head to Opus for a killer oyster appetizer or impressive filet. It’s white tablecloth dining, but you can either dress up or stay casual.
Cruisers of the culinary persuasion will want to plan for the first Saturday of the month when the local Farmer’s Market is open from 8AM-1PM. You’ll find the traditional fruits and veggies, hand-made soaps, local jewelry, and eclectic art, but one of the most unique stands is the German Bakery. Traditional German breads, buns, pretzels, and pastries are baked fresh that morning and sold anywhere from 50 cents to 5 dollars.
While Charlotte Harbor is well known for its world-class fishing and impressive golfing, what sets this community apart from other fishing grounds is the thriving art scene. More than 600 artists display their talents throughout Charlotte Harbor, and the 28 larger-than-life murals that adorn the buildings throughout the city’s historic district show the history and pride of Punta Gorda. Download a list and a walking map or bike route to each mural. puntagordamurals.com
On Thursday evenings head downtown to “Art Walk,” where live musicians and artists greet folks as they saunter into the stores, galleries and restaurants who open their doors to the community. For a more hands-on artistic experience, schedule a painting party with artist Marki of “Splash Wine & Paint Party.” Marki teaches a step-by-step canvas painting class paired with wine and cheese at various month. Her three-hour class near downtown Punta Gorda includes a professional frame for your masterpiece courtesy of Framing by Fred. letsgetsplashed.com; framingbyfred.com
After your artistic side is sated, rev up your latent “gear-head” at Rick Treworgy’s Muscle Car City—located just off I-75 and a five-minute drive from downtown. With 211 GM muscle cars dating back to the 20s, one man’s private collection of gleaming Pontiac GTOs, Chevy Corvettes, Chevelles, and Camaros bring back the glory days when hot rods ruled the road. musclecarcity.net
For active sight-seeing, pick up one of Punta Gorda’s free yellow loaner bikes at Fisherman’s Village or various locations throughout downtown. Wildlife enthusiasts will delight in the 200-plus bird species and hundreds of Atlantic Bottlenose dolphin that make their home in Charlotte Harbor. They’re easy to spot from your boat, kayaks, canoes and paddleboards, but if you don’t have your own, rent one from Holidaze Boat Rentals at Fisherman’s Village. Paddle over to the Peace River Wildlife Sanctuary at Ponce Park where pelicans, eagles, osprey, and other wildlife are rehabilitated. holidazeboatrental.com; peaceriverwildlifecenter.org
If you prefer a more secluded “deserted island” escape, cruise over to Cape Haze and Placida to dock at Palm Island Marina and Yacht Club. One of Florida’s very first clean marinas, Palm Island Marina offers all the expected services with premium customer service. Beachcombers are sure to find some sort of “treasure” on one of Florida’s most unspoiled shelling beaches—you are all but guaranteed to find sharks teeth. Take the $5 water taxi for the mile-long trip to Palm Island Resort. Stop by Rum Bay restaurant for lunch and then tour the resort and beach for a unique, first-class experience for vacations, events or day trips. A few transient slips for boats under 30 feet are available. palmislandmarina.com; palmisland.com
While in the Placida/Cape Haze area, visit the Margaret Albritton Gallery and the Hatch Gallery—both filled with artistic crafts and treasures. thealbrittongallery.com
Then stop by Catania’s Winery in Englewood and chat with the owner, John Catania, whose history and knowledge in winemaking will ensure your wine cooler is full of local flavor. cataniaswinery.com
By Christine Carpenter, Southern Boating January 2015
Beneath sprawling moss-draped oaks with their seconds standing by as witness, two sailors from New Orleans marched off fifteen paces between each other and fired. The men were settling an “Affaire d’Honneur” from a perceived slight towards a young lady the previous evening at a post regatta ball on the grounds of the Grand Hotel at Point Clear. The year was 1852, and as the smoke from their black-powder pistols joined the early morning mist, both sailors were left standing and they agreed the affair was settled. The men then returned to their schooners anchored on the eastern shores of Mobile Bay long a destination for cruisers and racers, and today the arts colony of Fairhope is a jewel on those bluffs rising on the Alabama coast.
A welcome respite or starting point for cruisers traversing the Tombigbee River and the Great Loop, Fairhope is well known to “Loopers,” and the town is well appointed to serve transients. Easily located from the water by the historic Ecor Rouge or “Red Bluff” outcropping on the bay, this red clay cliff is the highest coastal point between Maine and Mexico and has been used by mariners as a navigational point since the first Spanish explorers plied these waters in the 1500s. Due south of Ecor Rouge is the channel to the entrance of the full-service Eastern Shore and Fly Creek marinas, as well as the Fairhope Yacht Club.
Mobile Bay itself is quite shallow with an average depth of around 10 feet, yet sandy and shifting shoals abound, and it’s best to stick to the maintained channels. Fairhope Yacht Club is full of Southern charm and with proper advance notice, quite welcoming and accustomed to transients. Located about a mile from Fairhope’s bustling town center, scooters and bicycles are recommended, however, the adjacent Eastern Shore Marina offers a courtesy car to transients. Otherwise, a short dinghy ride to the municipal pier will leave you only a few blocks’ walk into town.
Fairhope was founded in 1894 and has a unique history as a “Single Tax Colony,” where a large portion of the land is owned by a managing authority that leases out the individual parcels—although the majority of the town has grown outside of those initial boundaries. Downtown Fairhope—a walking town—and her surrounding old Southern neighborhoods are stunning in their quiet allure, with beautifully landscaped streets and quaint antique shops, art galleries and boutique clothing stores.
Fairhope is, perhaps, best known for the legendary Page & Palette bookstore that draws in any writer worth their salt for book signings—large crowds have become old hat to the locals. The old Fly Creek bar on the marina was notorious as a Gulf Coast literary watering hole with writers such as John Grisham, Rick Bragg and Winston Groom frequenting to drink, smoke cigars and enjoy the sunset over the bay with the local shrimpers and oystermen. Fairhope today has that same feel, something akin to New Orleans, Ocean Springs and Apalachicola—that strange mix of coastal waters and the Deep South that feeds pages of novels.
Downtown Fairhope is growing as a culinary destination with the fertile estuaries of Bon Secour and Bayou La Batre located only an hour’s sail away along with their incredibly fresh catches. Gentrified buildings converted to host white tablecloth dining are popping up at places like Camellia Cafe where the Executive Chef is re-introducing Black Drum to the locals. Thyme, located on the bluff overlooking the bay, has become a destination for the “ladies-who-lunch” crowd in a quaint Gulf Coast house surrounded by towering oaks. Old school restaurants such as the Dragonfly and the Washhouse are legendary on the Alabama Coast. Right in the heart of downtown is Panini Pete’s, Pete Blohme’s flagship restaurant for his budding food empire. Regularly spotlighted and featured on the Food Network (and a Culinary Institute of America graduate), Pete is also branching out to reopen the aforementioned Fly Creek restaurant at the marina whose closing is long lamented by the old-school locals.
Only a few miles down the coast is Point Clear and the Grand Hotel, constructed in 1847. Part of a trend of waterfront destinations throughout the northern Gulf Coast in the 1800s, these resorts served the wealthy plantation owners, bankers and cotton brokers from New Orleans and Mobile. The Grand Hotel is one of the few that has survived nearly 200 years. Today, the resort is full of modern amenities and a world-class golf course. The Grand Hotel at Point Clear also holds great docking and slip facilities for transient cruisers.
Timing your visit with the migration of the Loopers will add to the camaraderie on the piers, but Fairhope in the spring is unmatched. With the azaleas and dogwood in bloom, the town comes alive. The 63rd Annual Arts & Crafts Festival will run in March of 2015. Like many towns on the northern Gulf Coast, Fairhope has an amazing legacy of coastal artists and the festival attracts over 250,000 visitors—pay special attention to the “found metal” sculptors and the potters who utilize the unique clay of southern Alabama.
The Eastern Shore of Mobile Bay also has a direct tie to the three-centuries-old Mardi Gras celebrations that reach back to the first French explorers bouncing along the northern Gulf Coast in 1699. Across the bay, Mobile hosts a celebration that is only surpassed by New Orleans, and Fairhope puts on her own show with three parades running through her downtown in February of 2015.
A bit further to the east along the coast lie perfect Gulf Coast beaches starting in Fort Morgan, with Orange Beach and Gulf Shores stealing the show. The Alabama coast also has great destination marinas such as Jimmy Buffett’s sister’s place, Lulu’s on the ICW, as well as The Wharf in Orange Beach. Nearby, Saunder’s Yachtworks is a world-class boatyard with state-of-the-art facilities.
The eastern shores of Mobile Bay have long been a cruising destination since schooners plied these waters two centuries ago. The bluffs shrouded in pines, oaks and azaleas hide quiet cruising destinations just miles away from the sugar sand beaches and emerald waters of Alabama’s barrier islands. Local artists, chefs and residents are waiting for you and will define what southern hospitality truly means as you drop those lines and tie up in Mobile Bay.
The Laguna Madre is an unheralded and stunning cruising ground running along most of the 367 miles of Texas’ coastline. Lined with barrier islands, the vast stretch from Corpus Christi south to the Mexican border is a postcard of undeveloped dunes and massive cattle ranches such as the enormous and legendary King Ranch. Best known as a Spring Break destination, South Padre Island and Port Isabel are frequented by cruisers in the know, but now they are primed to become a cruising destination for something unexpected—rocket launches.
Cruisers on the east coasts of Florida and Virginia have long understood the cruising appeal of anchoring in the designated locations for rocket or (in the past) space shuttle launches from Cape Canaveral, Florida, or the Wallops Island facility in Virginia. However, Texas billionaire Elon Musk’s SpaceX Corporation is constructing the first commercial orbital spaceport immediately south of Padre Island and Port Isabel and is expected to become operational in 2016. Local government officials are already in the planning phases to upgrade coastal parks and other viewing areas, including new boat ramps and mooring areas.
Located only 500 feet from the Boca Chica Beach on the Laguna Madre and the Gulf of Mexico, the site was originally a finalist for the Apollo moon launches before NASA selected Cape Canaveral in Florida. Only a few miles to the north, South Padre Island and the waterfront restaurants of Port Isabel will all see a boon to tourism as the launches will be easily visible from their decks, waterfront parks and campgrounds.
This past October, a wayward sailboat forced the scrubbing of an Antares rocket launch from
a NASA facility in coastal Virginia and the rocket subsequently exploded during the launch the next day. This boat violated the serious boating restrictions in place in the shadow of the launch trajectory, and while having no direct or indirect effect on the loss of the rocket, it makes the point of how serious NASA or private space corporations’ safety and security precautions are, and undoubtedly they will be in place in south Texas.
Rocket launches have always been a major draw for the curious and the enthusiasts with RV parks, motels and highways crowded with sightseers, but cruising down the pristine Laguna Madre in your Hatteras or Beneteau will be an ideal way to escape the traffic and congestion. Anchoring and grilling offshore with friends and family is one of the great boating experiences. Add to that the awe and anticipation of watching (and feeling) a heavy rocket launch or resupply missions to the International Space Station only brings the added depth of witnessing space exploration while conducting your own cruising explorations into new territory.
Naples, Florida offers a bit of the old and new to visiting cruisers.
Naples, Florida, is and always has been about the water. Surrounded by the Gordon River, Naples Bay, Gordon Pass, and the Gulf of Mexico, Naples began as—and remains—a maritime haven.
Centuries before Columbus, the area we know as Naples, Florida was inhabited by the Calusa Indians. They were the earliest to harvest fish and clams from the surrounding waters. They were were canal excavators long before Spain staked claim in 1513 to what is now Florida. By the early 1700s, Seminoles became the dominant native tribe on the waterfront until the mid-1850s when they were driven inland by the U.S. Army.
After the Civil War, small numbers of farmers and squatters made their way to Southwest Florida by wagon, ox cart, and even sailboats. Naples evolved into a boating community with abundant fish and game. The bay’s beauty was thought to surpass that of the bay in Naples, Italy, hence its name. By the time the town was officially founded in 1886, Naples had already attracted investors and gained popularity as a winter resort for wealthy Northerners.
Storied Past
Gordon Pass then and now.
Gordon Pass, then and now.
In the 1920s, Baron Collier (Naples is in Collier County, named for him) brought paved roads, electric power, telegraph service, and thriving business to the area. Silver screen legends Greta Garbo, Hedy Lamarr and Gary Cooper were frequent visitors, as were business moguls like Firestone and Edison.
Their frequent visits started a trend that established Naples’ reputation as a favorite spot for the rich and famous. Today, that rich and famous trend continues. According to the Naples Daily News, five Naples residents are on the 2017 Forbes list of billionaires. Celebrities like Bob Seger, Mike Ditka, Janet Evanovich, and Judge Judy own homes in the exclusive city.
Let’s rewind to the mid-1950s. Economic activity was centered around the tin-roofed buildings on the Gordon River, the home of Naples’ fishing industry, clam shelling and oyster processing along with boat construction and repair. As the fishing industry waned, this “tin city” was repurposed in the 1970s as The Old Marine Marketplace. It featured shops and restaurants. Current-day Tin City retains Old Florida charm with unique shops, rental boats, and water-based tours like the Double Sunshine and the Naples Princess.
Everything Old is Old Again
In a testament to Naples’ desire to keep the old Florida feel, Kelly’s Fish House, in business since 1953, still serves up seafood like Florida red grouper and Apalachicola oysters just across the river from Tin City. The Naples City Council has turned down developer requests to raze Kelly’s and make way for a large underground parking garage topped with shops, modern restaurants, and condos, maintaining this historic treasure and local favorite—for now.
Naples City Dock now.
Naples City Dock in 1940.
Moving downstream, the Gordon River widens into Naples Bay, once a deserted, mangrove encircled backwater. Here, Crayton Cove got its start in 1915 when Annie Rivers and her son, Chiz, settled in what was then called “The Back Bay.” The town’s first sheltered moorage for fishermen and bootleggers was found at The Back Bay Docks managed by local legend Brembury Storter. In 1935, the area was renamed Crayton Cove after another local owner and served as the town’s social center where the White Pelican hosted all the important, high-brow events, such as the Swamp Buggy Ball.
Present day Naples Bay bears little resemblance to days of yore. Mangrove shores have been supplanted by several marinas, hotels, retail, and office spaces, restaurants and residences. Naples City Dock reopened early this year after a nearly year-long closure and seven-million-dollar investment, including replacing the old fixed wooden docks with Bellingham floating docks. City Dock still lures fishermen (sans bootleggers) with Naples’ largest charter fishing fleet and day charter sailboats. City mooring balls, at $15 per night, are, undoubtedly, the cheapest place to stay in the Naples area.
The Dock at Crayton Cove restaurant is adjacent to City Dock and has waterside dining in view of the charter fleet. The Dock has had a 30-year run here with seafood as the centerpiece of the menu. Try the crab salad BLT, Spanish octopus skillet or banana macadamia nut snapper. Just down the block is Bleu Provence, in business for 20 years. This Zagat-rated establishment features Florida pompano with black olive vierge sauce and cobia with coconut and cilantro red pepper sauce. Many additional fine restaurants are just a stroll away on ritzy Fifth Avenue, and oh, the shopping!
Glitz and Glam
Moving south, Naples Bay’s shores, once sparsely dotted with fishing shanties, are now lined with elegant homes and honeycombed with navigable canals. Canal-side homes feature private docks to accommodate everything from picnic boats (Hinckley seems to be a common denominator) to large yachts; bayside homes tend to favor boat hoists due to the wakes from passing boat traffic. As the bay narrows again to re-form the river and makes a hard turn west, mariners pass the Port Royal area, an exclusive enclave with yachts docked at estates that make Los Angeles’ media mogul mansions look like starter homes. Fortunately, the area is still accessible to middle-class mariners, who cruise the canals in their vessels and anchor in bays along the way. A favorite of mine is Champney Bay, accessed by turning north between red channel markers #10 and #12 just inside the Gordon Pass’ entrance.
Port Royal, then and now. .
Port Royal, then and now.
Moving to the Gulf side of Naples, Naples Beach (open to the public) has been a favorite of locals and tourists alike for more than a century—only the size of the swimwear has changed. The centerpiece of the beach is the 600-foot-long Naples Pier. It was constructed in 1888 as a freight and passenger dock for the Naples Hotel. The Pier has been through a lot, largely destroyed by a fire in 1922 and ravaged by hurricanes in 1910, 1926 and 1960. Although it was rebuilt shortly before Hurricane Irma, it was damaged again during the storm. The pier is now undergoing yet another round of repairs. Fishing is not currently allowed, but frustrated fishermen can drown their sorrows at the pier concession, Cosmos Café, and Pizzeria; the City Council recently approved serving beer and wine at this establishment.
Naples Pier, then and now.
Historic Charms
Take a leisurely walk today along Naples Pier. It’s easy to imagine the ladies in summer hats and men in fedoras strolling along the original pier. But nothing lasts forever, and now is the time to discover both the old and new of Florida’s “last frontier,” on the water in Naples, Florida.
One great aspect of cruising on the Gulf Coast is the history and culture associated with waterfront dining at restaurants and watering holes. Tying up to the piers puts you in touch with a culinary tradition that dates as far back as 1859 at Bruning’s in New Orleans’ West End. Others such as the Fly Creek Inn in Fairhope, Alabama, were known haunts of writers and poets who were drawn to the unmistakable ambiance and connection to the food and drink that comes from being on the water in the Deep South.
Today, there are hundreds of great local haunts for everything from fried grouper baskets to the freshest oysters, and while this space is too small to list them all, here are a few great seafood joints from west to east to keep in mind when cruising the Gulf.
LOUISIANA:
Brisbi’s—New Orleans: West End was the home to seafood waterfront dining for over 150 years until Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Today, the restaurants are coming back and Brisbi’s is leading the charge. Tie up and enjoy the relaxed open-air oyster bar downstairs, or head upstairs to what many call the “Yat Club” for great New Orleans seafood.
Morton’s—Madisonville: On the deepwater Tchefuncte River on northern Lake Pontchartrain in quaint Madisonville, the staff is never in a rush at Morton’s—but neither are you while you’re there. With the best crawfish on the north shore, everything is always fresh, even down to the mirliton dressing.
MISSISSIPPI:
Trapani’s—Bay St. Louis: Located adjacent to the recently completed municipal marina, Trapani’s has been dishing out some of the best seafood and po-boys on the Mississippi Coast for 20 years. After lunch or dinner, stroll one of the cutest towns on all of the Gulf Coast.
ALABAMA:
JT’s Sunset Grill—Dauphin Island: Located on the western side of the island, JT’s is that sort of relaxed joint where you can get your fix of fried oysters and a side of fishermen’s tall tales. Slip space can get tight, so head over early for lunch or dinner.
LuLu’s—Gulf Shores: More like a destination, Jimmy Buffet’s sister owns LuLu’s, and it has the exact feel of the sort of place a sister of Jimmy’s would run. With a ton of adjacent slips on the ICW, eating at LuLu’s is more of an event with live music and volleyball, but always check out the daily specials.
FLORIDA:
Boathouse Oyster Bar—Destin: Sidle up to this waterfront joint and the staff will scurry out to help you dock. Inside this well-worn and casual joint are fantastic oysters prepared numerous ways. Call ahead and they’ll have fresh tuna steak sandwiches on French bread with chips in brown paper bags waiting for you on the pier.
Dockside Café—Port St. Joe: Fried grouper baskets, fresh oysters from next-door Apalachicola, and every type of rum drink imaginable await at the Port St. Joe Marina. It’s the ideal spot on St. Joseph’s Bay to watch the sunset and listen to lone wolf guitarists doing Jimmy Buffet cover bands.
For the cruiser in your life there are endless options for gift giving this holiday season from that new handheld GPS unit to a subscription to their favorite boating magazine. But what better stocking stuffer than a member subscription or “friend” of a non-profit organization that specifically restores and preserves their favorite waterways and cruising grounds?
While the giant non-profits tend to receive the most charitable donations, they also tend to have the highest cost overhead and expenses to cover before your money is brought into direct action. However, throughout the Gulf Coast there are small organizations made up of volunteers—many of whom might be your neighbors or friends at the marina—where $50 or $100 would go a long way to directly and specifically help preserve a favorite boating or fishing location. A few trusted organizations are listed below, but a simple online search will help you find a non-profit group dedicated to your favorite bay, lake or estuary.
Gulf Restoration Network (Gulf Coast): Covering the health and preservation of the entire Gulf of Mexico, this organization and their efforts came into real prominence immediately following the BP oil spill off the Louisiana coast in 2010. While a medium-sized organization, this group and their army of volunteers is very active throughout the Gulf Coast from the planting of marsh grasses to the restoration of barrier islands and fishing grounds. healthygulf.org
Friends of West End (Louisiana): Created in the 1830s, West End is a massive and historical recreational boating and park complex in New Orleans. Situated on Lake Pontchartrain, West End is home to 100+ acres of historic parks and marinas, and the Friends of West End organization raises funds for restoration projects as well as building a large wetlands park that will aid in the downstream health of the fisheries throughout the Lake Pontchartrain Basin. friendsofwestend.org
Coastal Conservation Association (CCA-Mississippi): Dedicated to the restoration of the once highly productive marine fisheries along the Mississippi Coast and the barrier islands, the CCA-Mississippi is a dedicated division of the larger Coastal Conservation Association which has been highly successful in their attempts to preserve recreational and commercial fisheries. Donations to the CCA-Mississippi stay within the state. ccamississippi.org
Dauphin Island Restoration Task Force (Alabama): Dauphin Island—Alabama’s incredibly beautiful lone barrier island—plays a crucial role in the estuarine environments for Mobile Bay and the Mississippi Sound that helps support the entire recreational and commercial seafood industries for the Northern Gulf Coast. The task force is devoted to restoring the shoreline of this treasure that is rapidly eroding into the Gulf. dauphinislandrestoration.org
Friends of St. Joseph’s Bay (Florida): Very few waters are as pristine as St. Joseph’s Bay in Florida. Located on the Forgotten Coast on the far eastern panhandle of the state, this spectacular bay is home to crystal clear waters that support everything from scallops to seahorses and needs more human advocates to help it remain this way. stjosephbaypreserves.org
Texas, like much of the West, has been battling ferocious droughts for much of this decade. The effects are cascading throughout the boating world as some reservoirs used by recreational cruisers become severely depleted and rivers that feed the estuaries dry up and negatively influence the breeding grounds for fish and commercial seafood harvests. With the insatiable thirst from growing cities such as Houston and Austin, there simply isn’t enough water to go around and fights are brewing between economic interests built up around these reservoirs, cities, commercial fishing, and farming.
The effects are severe enough that many sailing and boating organizations regularly post updates on water legislation alongside photos of regattas or fishing tournaments where lower water levels are clearly visible along shorelines. Lakes such as Ray Hubbard, Granbury and Nocona have reached record low water levels since their dams were constructed in the 1960s and Lake Whitney alone has dropped 13 feet. Public ramps on Lake Travis have been closed due to the low water levels, and marina operators have to shift boat slips further from shore and into deeper waters. Cruiser safety is also becoming an issue in some places as boats hit shallows or newly exposed debris causing significant damages to hulls or engines.
As rivers and creeks dry up, so do the estuaries that are the nursery grounds for redfish, speckled trout, black drum, and flounder. As saltwater moves in to replenish the depleted fresh water, entire ecosystems are being damaged. Gulf oysters that normally thrive in the bays from Port Aransas to Galveston are taking huge hits from the hyper-salinity levels that are occurring. The effects are beginning to reverberate throughout the $17 billion tourism economy along the Texas Gulf Coast in higher costs and smaller recreational and commercial fishing hauls.
Texans recently voted to dip into a $2 billion “rainy day” fund in order to create new reservoirs, water pipelines and to fund new conservation projects. While not as heavily affected by the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in 2010, Texas could also reap another billion dollars from impending fines against BP, and these funds should go directly into coastal conservation and reconstruction projects. However, individuals have expressed concern that some of this money could be redirected towards projects that have nothing to do with environmental restoration, just as Alabama recently did by directing millions from these penalties toward a hotel project.
Texas has a unique boating culture that has grown up around these reservoirs, and combined with the state’s already wild and beautiful rivers and coastline, every effort should be made to not sacrifice them for the sake of water intensive lawns or even rice farming. While Texas is faring better than states such as California, which is being ravaged by drought, it is crucial to protect the waters that make Texas such a beautiful state for all boating activities.
Invasive species are a very real threat and a menace to natural ecosystems across the planet, and the lionfish is one that has garnered a lot of public and media attention as of late. However, a new foreign scourge is rampaging through the lakes of Texas and has forced strict new boating and fishing guidelines in an effort to halt its spread.
The zebra mussel was imported from its natural Eurasian habitat into the Great Lakes around 1988 and has since spread rapidly down through the Mississippi waterway. Preferring still or slow moving bodies of water, their larvae can be easily transferred via rivers, bait wells or bilges and survive in this stage for up to 30 days and allows their population to multiply aggressively.
With colonies large and concentrated enough to actually sink buoys with their weight over time, the Zebra Mussels adhere themselves to keels, boat trailers, pilings—basically any solid structure under water. Very difficult to remove from even the hull of a boat, the mussels can damage or block any water system on a vessel including heads, air conditioners and engine cooling systems. On a larger scale, the mussel colonies are specifically wreaking havoc with drainage, irrigation, cooling supplies for power plants, and pipes for local water supplies. The colonies bloom out and adhere to each other and block these larger water intake and discharge systems similar to blocked arteries. The environmental damage to local ecosystems is also radical, with entire populations of fish dying off due to the large colonies of mussels’ ability to alter the temperature of lakes via their natural filtration of the water columns.
One of the many efforts the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department are using to control the Zebra mussels. Photo credit: Texas Parks and Wildlife Dept.
Already discovered in Lake Texoma, Lewisville Lake, Lake Belton, and multiple others across Texas, the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department began enforcing new regulations that went into effect over the summer. Applying to flatboats, skiboats, personal watercraft, sailboats, kayaks/canoes or any vessel of any size—whether powered or not—owners must now flush and clean all livewells, bilges, motors or any other item or machine that comes into contact with public waters, a good boating habit to begin with.
With their larvae capable of transiting in any standing water from one lake to another, cruisers are now the first line of defense in staving off infestation between bodies of water throughout the country. Already discovered in California and even Utah with recreational boats the likely transportation, cruisers throughout the South must become vigilant or the millions of dollars already being spent throughout the Great Lakes region on removal and eradication will surely arrive on lakes across the Gulf Coast—along with higher boating fees necessary to pay for the damage.
As the first cool fronts make their way down from the north and with the holidays right around the corner, the second major boating season gets underway on the Northern Gulf Coast. Flatboats and pirogues are readied and ponds in the marshes are scouted. Fishermen head out for those big reds and trout that got away over the summer, and the oystermen fan out from the coast to bring in those salty mollusks so necessary for this coast’s holiday celebrations.
Thanksgiving and Christmas on the Gulf Coast have always featured time-honored traditions incorporating boating with holiday meals that reach back to subsistence fishing and hunting. It’s hard not to notice the flatboats covered in fresh marsh grass on Thanksgiving morning in New Orleans’ Garden District with hunters rushing in their camouflage gear to start the smokers. On the coast of Mississippi, boats skippered by “paw paws” and grandfathers are eased back onto their trailers as the proud and sleepy grandkids are ready for a nap from their quick morning of trawling for the day’s shrimp. On the bayous of Alabama, crab traps are raised and early morning trout are cleaned while the luggers in Apalachicola bring in those all-important oysters.
As families descend on their gathering spots on the coast from Pass Christian to Bon Secour and from New Orleans to Clearwater, ladies in their kitchens and men at their culinary stations out back come alive. Recipes handed down from generations long past are shared with the next in line. The number of oysters in this year’s dressing is marked on the handwritten recipe that now scrolls back fifty years. Empty shotgun shell casings and old tangled fishing line are placed with moss, green mirlitons and heirloom crystal candleholder centerpieces, while laughter and the smell of redfish court-bouillon permeate the house. Out back, brothers and uncles sip on cold beer while their sons and daughters watch as ducks wrapped in bacon are smoked to perfection—the black labs wait for that one dropped bird.
On piers and docks, oysters are charbroiled while a brisk cold wind whips down across the sounds and bays—boats pop in the water in a building chop while sailboat stanchions clink. Windows of the houses glow with the warm yellow light of families and friends gathered, their cars parked in the lawn underneath sprawling oaks next to a few boat trailers holding license plates from Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida.
While the arriving winter means many cruisers across the country prepare to put their boats to bed under cover for the inevitable snow and ice, on the Gulf Coast and throughout the South, boating springs to life in a second season. Away from the summer waterskiing, regattas and the heat of waiting on that tuna to bite off shore, many might say that it’s the more important boating season.
Many unique, historic classes of boats evoke the culture and lifestyle of particular regions in the U.S. simply from their appearance. From old Chris Craft runabouts with perfectly maintained brightwork on the waters of Newport to the Biloxi Schooners that plied the shallows of the Mississippi Sound for oysters and shrimp; an entire boating sub-culture dedicated to the preservation of these boats is flourishing—including festivals and events that celebrate them.
The Gulf Coast is home to several classes of boats (both sail and power) that are truly unique, although possibly not widely known. The Luggers were shallow, long trawling vessels converted to rustic, if not stately, yachts for cruising the shallows of the northern Gulf Coast. The Lafitte Skiff is another commercial fishing vessel that was transformed over the years into a smaller recreational fishing runabout. And while not unique to the Gulf Coast, the Fish Class dinghies were actively raced throughout the Gulf Yachting Association for decades. A determined few still actively race them in races such as the Fish Class World Championship on Mobile Bay at Buccaneer Yacht Club this month.
These are just a few examples of the famous classes of wooden boats that are celebrated throughout the U.S. The National Sailing Hall of Fame in Annapolis, Maryland, for example, hosts an annual regatta of wooden-hulled sailboats over 65′ in length, and clubs such as the venerable New York Yacht Club still hold races for the Sandbaggers that were raced in the 1800s throughout the East and Gulf Coasts. Wooden boat festivals that celebrate our country’s unique nautical legacy take place in every region, but one of the largest takes place October 11-12 in the small, picturesque town of Madisonville, Louisiana, at the mouth of the deep-water Tchefuncte River on Lake Pontchartrain. Home to several large marinas and an historic town that directly fronts the river, Madisonville’s lighthouse and maritime museum are celebrating the 25th anniversary of their Wooden Boat Festival.
Madisonville is a popular cruising destination and recognized for its impressive collection of Biloxi Luggers that arrive from the Mississippi Coast, cruising clubs from throughout the lake and the coast’s yacht clubs. Live music plays along Water Street with pirogue and other wooden boatbuilding demonstrations onshore—although the real showcase is on the piers with a stunning showcase of wooden boats from throughout history. Madisonville is a true cruiser’s town, and every October it becomes an essential visit for lovers of stunning and perfectly maintained historic boats with a celebration to match.
The Gulf Coast has a long history of artisanal boatbuilding that stretches back to when it was first settled. Marrying Native American designs with European influences and tools birthed entire classes of boats uniquely suited to regional waterways all along the coast. With the arrival of fiberglass and the consolidation of boatbuilding into large corporate enterprises, many traditions and generational knowledge were on the verge of being lost. However, there is a recent resurgence of artisanal builders with legacies and techniques being rediscovered that result in gorgeous, fully functional nearshore and inshore boats ideal for these coastlines.
In southern Louisiana, French colonists quickly learned that their deep-hulled European vessels were not navigable in the naturally shallow bayous, so they adopted the designs of the Indians’ flat-bottomed, 16-foot boats that were carved and burned out of single cypress logs. As these pirogue (pee-rouge) developed and became the standard for trappers and fishermen, eventually cypress planks were used to significantly drop weight and further the boats’ maneuverability in shallow marshes.
Today, Cajun craftsmen like Tony Latiolais of Henderson, Louisiana, in the Atchafalaya Basin utilize “sinker” cypress logs reclaimed from the bottom of bayous and logged swamps. Other builders like Keith Felder of Denham Springs, Louisiana, are constructing them out of marine-grade plywood and finishing with cypress. Stacked on board powerboats, these boats are prized possessions that allow duck hunting enthusiasts to enter shallow ponds and sloughs off the deeper bayous. They are now being revisited by anglers who tackle the incredibly productive fishing grounds of the Louisiana marsh and are ideal for cruisers looking to explore shallower, protected bayous.
Boatbuilding is an evolutionary process and Texan craftsmen are joining traditional wooden boats with modern styles to create hybrid designs that serve the creeks and near-shore waters of their state. Craftsman David Escobedo of Escobedo Boatworks is doing this on the outskirts of San Antonio in the one-horse town of Buda, Texas. His boat Sea Dart is a 16-foot lapstrake-type build that combines the look of a canoe and a kayak ideal for lake or creek fishing, as well as hunting redfish along the coast.
Arrowhead Custom Boats in Austin, Texas, is another wooden boatbuilder helmed by David Nichols, who has long embraced the art and traditions of classic construction. His boats range from traditional canoes to ideal fly-fishing platforms.
Part of the resurgence of these wooden shallow-draft boats and classic Gulf Coast boats like the Lafitte Skiff were initiated by the determination of organizations such as the Center for Traditional Louisiana Boatbuilding and wooden boat festivals such as the hugely popular celebration in Madisonville, Louisiana. Small maritime museums like the one in Port Aransas, Texas, are also determined to re-introduce these skills and knowledge. Many of these organizations conduct traditional boatbuilding classes and are reviving these old processes and designs, which are creating a new legacy of hobbyists and entrepreneurs who are constructing beautiful heirloom paddleboats.
The emerald waters and white sands of the Northern Gulf Coast are normally a tranquil vacation spot except for one week in late August when a “Who’s Who” of powerboat racing storms onto the coast. The growl of high-octane engines screaming just a Frisbee’s throw offshore builds unparalleled energy and excitement for race fans lined on beaches, and in spectator boats and private beachside condo balconies. After a decade of racing, Thunder on the Gulf has become one of the top powerboat racing events in the U.S. and this year will be no exception.
Held over a long weekend August 21-24, the event has expanded to include racing in both Orange Beach, Alabama, and nearby Pensacola, Florida,—now billed the Flora-Bama Shootout Grand Prix Championship. The legendary Flora-Bama bar straddling the line between the two states is famous for their mullet toss and is hosting the kick-off party on Thursday, August 21st. John Carbonell of Key West is the premier race official and Super Boat International is the sanctioning body for this race weekend, which is listed as a top event by the Southeast Tourism Society.
With race villages and wet pits set up in each location, race fans can tour these monster super-boats in a festive atmosphere the day before the races, which run Friday the 22nd in Orange Beach and Sunday the 24th off Pensacola’s historic downtown waterfront at the Plaza de Luna.
Enjoying the Thunder on the Gulf show. Photo: Super Boat International
The 11th annual Thunder on the Gulf. Photo: Super Boat International
Billed as an entire race week experience, food and live music will be featured at each event site, including the Marshall Tucker Band at the Wharf in Orange Beach. There will also be a golf tournament, the well-attended Thunder Motorcycle Run, an offshore fishing tournament, and two bikini contests. A massive street party, boat parade and fireworks display on Palafox Street and the adjacent pier follow the final awards ceremony in Pensacola. All events are staggered and timed to chase the race boats as they transition from Alabama to the Florida Panhandle. VIP packages are available.
Depending on your taste and energy level, there is something for all race fans whether you don’t want to miss a minute of the onshore and offshore events in both cities or would simply prefer to set up your beach chairs with a cooler along the 6.5-mile liquid racecourse in Orange Beach. For those who are new to superboat racing, this is a perfect time to book your family vacation and delight the kids with this NASCAR-type event on the water. thunderonthegulf.com
