Mardi Gras’s Fat Tuesday may not begin until March 5th, but festivities start in February.
Marching bands and floats brighten up many Gulf coastal towns. Masked krewe members carry armloads of plastic beads. Wave your arms and scream, “Hey Mister!” Ground zero for Mardi Gras is New Orleans’ French Quarter. If you’ve never been, go. But even before the big day, you can holler for trinkets at parades in the Old Quarter and in the Uptown section.
Galveston Island has been doing Mardi Gras for 108 years, and it has grown to a
14-day calendar of activities that bring about 350,000 to parades and festivals with live
bands and delicious food.
Just about every Mississippi Gulf Coast town from Bay St. Louis to Pascagoula has eat-drink-and-be-merry festivals and parades. Some have unique parade themes. Biloxi, for
example, will crown the “King and Queen of the Krewe of Barkloxi.” Dog owners and
their dogs wear lookalike costumes.
Mobile, Alabama, deservedly calls itself the birthplace of Mardi Gras celebrations
in North America. Mobile Carnival Museum displays old floats, crowns, gowns, and
photographs dating back to 1886. The history-rich city at the top of Mobile Bay hosts
almost 50 parades in February and in the first five days of March.
The four-day Mardi Gras weekend at Gulf Shores and Orange Beach includes a 12-mile
boat parade via the ICW from The Wharf Marina in Orange Beach to Homeport Marina.
Lucy Buffett’s restaurant, Lulu’s, next to Homeport, welcomes all to “keep the party
going” with live music. Costumes and masks might get you a spot closer to the band, so
laissez le bon temps rouler!
Years ago as a TV news anchor, I cringed when news managers carelessly tossed around the notion that boating was a rich man’s sport and thus rarely made daily broadcasts about the subject. As a boat owner, I knew better. The majority of boats sold were less than 25 feet, and more affordable used boats outsold new models 80:1. When you did come across a yacht owner, they were your “go-to” people for charity events.
As summer season kicks in along the Gulf Coast, in each community from Texas to Florida, you’ll hopefully see news about local fishing tournaments, or as they say in Grand Isle, Louisiana, rodeos. The annual Swollfest Rodeo, staged out of Sand Dollar Marina, will celebrate 19 years of charitable work this June. As their simple website banner says, “We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.”
Local dentist Dr. Nick Rauber launched the concept as a teenager and nurtured the fishing rodeo’s growth to some impressive numbers: 600 registered anglers, hundreds of sponsors, 75 volunteers and thousands of attendees who descend on Grand Isle the first weekend of June every year.
This year’s charities are Children’s Hospital at Our Lady of the Lake in Baton Rouge and the Outdoor Wish Foundation (OWF). OWF finds recipients and, unbeknownst to them, learns of their background and begins developing a unique experience for that individual. There are two recipients chosen each year, and one hundred percent of the cost is borne by the all-volunteer OWF.
When you think of some billfish tournaments, large boats come to mind. However, Swollfest’s variety of categories include kayak anglers, children 12 and younger, a women’s division, and the best boat in shore and best boat off shore. These categories help unite all anglers who have a love for ecological conservation, a passion for the competition and a heart to help those in need.
You don’t have to speak with a Cajun accent to compete, but it does help to explain how the rodeo got the name Swollfest. It’s a whimsical take on swell, competition and catching the biggest fish. The fishing tournament takes place June 7-10 and includes nightly musical talent.
Nine months after Panama City selected a developer to revitalize the marina and aging downtown district, the city finally has a plan to review. Some of the most notable changes involve partnerships. Bellingham Marine, one of the world leaders in marina construction, is replacing local favorite Legendary Marine and joining lead designer Sonnenblick Development. Together they envision new environmentally friendly docks, two hotels, a public fishing pier (built with oil spill money), an event lawn, a 10-plex movie theater, two parking garages, restaurants with outdoor dining along the T-dock, residential high-rises, and a lighthouse. Artist renderings also show a boat ramp, but its precise location is expected to be somewhat fluid.
The marina plan includes room for transients with an eye toward tourism. A dedicated water taxi area for transportation to popular nearby St. Andrews Marina will also be included. The plan now goes before several review boards with construction expected to begin after this year’s boating season.
The Corpus Christi Marina now has 600 slips, cruiser’s facilities, three yacht clubs, and a massive public boat ramp. The improvements to the marina district have inspired a Greater Downtown Area of culture, sports, convention and hospitality venues.
The premier boating destination on the Texas Gulf Coast, caps a successful summer of expansion with the dedication of 35 more slips for boats 30 to 45 feet in length—the seventh major addition in the past 16 years.
Infrastructure Improvements
Since 2000, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has provided $1,764,050 in federal funds via Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration (WSFR) grants specifically targeted at an improved marina infrastructure, access for boaters and improved sanitary facilities to maintain clean water.
The grant monies, matched by the City of Corpus Christi and Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, have built modern septic pump-outs, restrooms and showers, a laundry, meeting rooms, a four-lane boat ramp, and more than 80 slips for boats greater than 26 feet in length at the Corpus Christi Marina.
“This marina is hugely important to both boaters and anglers on the Texas Gulf Coast, and exemplifies how the Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program works in partnership with others to improve boating access and infrastructures,” says Cliff Schleusner, Chief of WSFR in the Southwest Region. “Boaters and anglers paid for it in excise tax, and now they and others reap the benefits.”
The new infrastructure replaces outdated and decayed materials and should better withstand the forces of future hurricanes. A part of the infrastructure upgrades includes Internet systems needed for navigation.
While the marina is the anchor on the Bayfront, civic leaders and business owners continue to expand what’s known as the Marina Arts District. The area features a vibrant nightlife, music scene, art galleries and outdoor art, along with many weekend festivals. marinaarts.com
Everything is bigger in Texas and this includes fishing tournaments. With more than 367 miles of coastline on the Gulf of Mexico and along the famed Laguna Madre with charters running from Galveston to Corpus Christi and all the way south to the Mexican border in San Isabel, Texas can satisfy your need for deep or near-shore saltwater fishing.
One of the largest tournaments, the Texas Star State of Texas Angler’s Rodeo run by the Coastal Conservation Association (CCA) lasts a solid three months. This tournament with more than 45,000 participants is unusual in that tagged species of fish are specifically released throughout the coast for the purpose of the tournament. Registered participants have the entire summer to reel in those tagged reds and trout. Successful anglers can reel in their share for more than $1 million in prizes and scholarships. ccatexas.org, startournament.org
Chandeleur Island Fishing off Mississippi Motherships. Photo: Troy Gilbert
Chandeleur Island Fishing off Mississippi Motherships. Photo: Troy Gilbert
Chandeleur Island Fishing off Mississippi Motherships. Photo: Troy Gilbert
Chandeleur Island Fishing off Mississippi Motherships. Photo: Troy Gilbert
Down the coast in Matagorda, the Matagorda Bluewater Challenge is another monster multiple species tournament with boats allowed to leave from several ports. The tournament also includes a small boat (under 25 feet) class. The big action is offshore where winners are decided over the combined weight of multiple and specific species hauled in. This two-day event brings out the Who’s Who of Texas fishing and novices who charter vessels with groups of friends and try their luck at bringing in the largest kingfish, ling, and dolphin. Winning isn’t everything, but two days spent offshore is a perfect recreational investment for men, women, and children.
Not to be outdone and celebrating its 19th anniversary on the legendary Louisiana barrier island of Grand Isle, the Swollfest Fishing Rodeo kicks off June 8-12. Headquartered at the Sand Dollar Marina on the easternmost reach of Grand Isle, this event has exploded from its humble beginnings as a group of eight guys going out fishing one weekend to one of the largest fishing rodeos in Louisiana.
With world-class offshore and inshore fishing throughout the waters of Louisiana, Swollfest was among the early to recognize and adopt the growing trend in spear and kayak fishing and have adopted them as classes alongside the standard fishing rodeo classes. Kayak fishing is ideal in these estuaries of southeast Louisiana with kayaks able to navigate all of the shallow coastal marsh and find those hidden and previously unreachable honey spots.
Located at the edge of Barataria and Caminada Bay and the deep-water oil platforms of the Gulf of Mexico that serve as incredible artificial reef habitats, Grand Isle is known for hosting multiple world-class fishing events. The species of fish from the multiple habitats are far too numerous to list, but there is a definitive reason why southern Louisiana is known as the “Sportsman’s Paradise.”
By Harlen Leslie, Southern Boating Magazine April 2016
A group of recreational boaters and anglers in South Texas are up in arms over the Army Corps of Engineers’ decision to approve a barge terminal in the Lydia Ann Channel near Port Aransas, about 200 miles southwest of Houston. The channel, part of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway, is popular with fishing enthusiasts because of its abundance of red drum; it’s also home to eight endangered fish species and five endangered sea turtle species. However, the channel is an important thoroughfare for commercial shipping traffic in and out of the nearby Port of Corpus Christi, and therein lies the rub.
The barge terminal features 82 mooring stations in the Lydia Ann Channel along the southwest shore of San Jose Island. The moorings, according to an article in the Port Aransas South Jetty, are spaced “100 feet apart in waters no less than 12 feet deep.” Moorings, the Corps explains, reduce the need for push boats operating in the channel, which, in turn, helps reduce air pollution and protects the shoreline.
According to the Lydia Ann Channel Fleet (LAC Fleet), which operates the barge terminal, “Prior to the establishment of LAC Fleet, barges were pushed up along the banks of San Jose Island by push boats that were then forced to keep their engines running continuously so that the barges would not drift. This wasted thousands of gallons of fuel, damaged the sea grasses and eroded the shoreline.”
A nonprofit group, Friends of Lydia Ann Channel (FLAC), has a different take on the situation. FLAC is adamantly opposed to the terminal and the way it was approved by the Corps, claiming the Corps failed to conduct public hearings and environmental reviews prior to OKing the project. Subsequently, FLAC filed a lawsuit late last year claiming the Corps violated the federal Endangered Species Act and other national laws that protect wildlife, the environment and areas of historic significance. FLAC, mindful of the Deepwater Horizon disaster in 2010, fears that it’s only a matter of time before a barge carrying a hazardous load—tar, asphalt, anhydrous ammonia, or something worse—has an accident and dumps its cargo. The results, the group says, would be catastrophic to both wildlife and humans. A spill would pose a significant health and safety threat if a barge carrying toxic or explosive materials were to founder in the channel, FLAC claims. “FLAC seeks redress for the near total abdication by the (Corps) of its responsibilities under federal law to protect from destruction the environmental, recreational, historical and archaeological treasures located in and near the Lydia Ann Channel,” the group stated in a news release.
Port Aransas, which dubs itself the “Fishing Capital of Texas,” relies heavily on tourism as an economic driver. In addition to red drum, flounder, kingfish, marlin, sailfish, black drum, trout, and tuna abound in its waters. The city plays host to more than 20 fishing tournaments per year, including the popular and long-running Deep Sea Roundup; dolphin-watching tours are also big business in Port Aransas.
— By Del Gillis, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016
South Padre Island and Port Isabel—where the fish and seafood are plenty and seasoning is most likely unnecessary
Perhaps the large territory comes to be associated with the arid deserts of the southwest, yet the Lone Star State also boasts a nearly 400-mile-long coastline on the Gulf of Mexico dotted with white sand beaches, littoral towns and a wealth of charming anchorages. Halfway down her coast, south of Corpus Christi and far from any interstate highways lies the mouth of the Laguna Madre, among the most remote and forgotten cruising grounds on the Gulf Coast.
Shielded by South Padre Island and stretching all the way south to Mexico, this narrow lagoon not only runs along the Gulf but is also a rarity: It is one of the saltiest bodies of water in the world, even saltier than our seas and oceans. With its shallow depth, few inlets to the Gulf of Mexico and lack of fresh water coming from the plains of South Texas, this unique ecosystem buffered on both sides by sand dunes has remained in a pristine state, her shores barely touched by developers. Cruisers who have discovered the Laguna Madre’s unique beauty lament South Padre Island’s reputation as a college spring break destination, yet the 34-mile-long island and the artsy town of Port Isabel at its furthest point south open their arms wide to cruisers throughout the year.
Fine beach sand attracts world-class sandcastle-building competitions to Padre Island.
Sportfish boats line the docks at Padre Island marinas waiting for fishing season—and the weekend.
Everyone loves babies especially sea turtles released on South Padre Island.
Cruising families enjoy Schlitterbahn, one of the nation’s biggest and best amusement parks.
Hobie Cats prepare for the Great Texas 300.
First discovered and mapped by Cabeza de Vaca and his Spanish conquistadors in 1528, South Padre Island was an encampment for an unusual tribe of Native Americans known as the Karankawas. They were said to wear rattlesnake rattles in their braided hair, cover themselves in alligator grease and were portrayed as skilled bow hunters. Myths about the tribe abound. The Spaniards believed them to be cannibals, yet their diet mainly consisted of seafood and oysters. They may also have been among the earliest people to fly fish. The Karankawas were eventually chased off South Padre Island by a group of European settlers who roped a cannon onto a donkey and trudged it across the sand dunes. While the loud cannon failed to frighten the tribe, Spanish missionaries reported that it was the “magical” donkey and its jumps from the cannon’s recoil that scared the native tribe forever into the depths of what would become Texas.
Today, billionaire Elon Musk’s SpaceX Corporation is building a new launch facility (for things other than donkeys) immediately south of Padre Island and Port Isabel. With the Tesla fortune seemingly pouring into the area, local government officials are already in the planning phases to upgrade coastal parks and other launch-viewing sites. Dockside restaurants such as Pier 19 in Port Isabel are perfectly located to provide unobstructed viewing areas for launches paired with delicious, locally caught seafood—do not miss out on the (rocket) Blackened Baja Tacos. This far south, expect a heavy Mexican influence on traditional Gulf cooking.
Plying the Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna Madre, locals—South Padre Island and Port Isabel count no more than 5,000 permanent residents—fish the waters for their prey offshore of the nearby and massive King Ranch. Expect bridge delays as horsemen lead massive herds of cattle to their next grazing lands. Charter boats head deep into the Gulf of Mexico to hunt for tuna, amberjack, kings, and other big-game fish, while inshore guides take you to hit the speckled trout and big reds along the coast.
In downtown Port Isabel the waterfront is the center of the action with the Tarpon, Port Isabel and Pelican Point marinas all within walking distance. Rustic seafood restaurants such as Will and Jacks Burger Shack & Beer Garden, Joe’s Oyster Bar and Dirty Al’s are filled with down-to-earth and artsy locals. Take time to chat with them as this quiet and low-key beach town is filled with stories and hospitality.
If your cruising itinerary includes an arrival here in October, the weather cools off and the town’s Day of the Dead festival on Halloween weekend explodes on Maxan Street; the township is in its full quirky splendor. Or, join the adventurers in June and arrive for the start of the Great Texas 300 when Hobie Cat sailors race the entire Laguna Madre up to Galveston in what is billed as the longest distance small-boat catamaran race in the world.
But the best reason to cruise south to the border is to experience the true untouched beauty of South Texas’ waters. The Laguna Madre is, indeed, a still-undiscovered boating natural wonder in America with her salty waters, near constant winds and predatory birds soaring from the plains. With sand-covered barrier islands protecting bays, fertile estuaries rumored to have sheltered the infamous pirate Jean Lafitte, and empty beaches stretching for miles along the Gulf of Mexico, the Texas coast should not be forgotten. These cruising and fishing grounds are just waiting for adventurous boaters and anglers to come and discover them. The fresh oysters and blackened redfish freshly landed are also waiting for your plate at the many restaurants and beachside eateries of this rustic island town. Then just dig your feet in the white sand, sip an adult beverage and watch the fiery sunset that customarily plays out across the deserts of Texas—but this time with surf rolling at your toes.
CRUISER RESOURCES
—Dockage—
Pelican Point Marina and RV Park
40 Tarpon Avenue • (956) 943-6464
Port Isabel City Dock
800 Pompano Street
(956) 943-2682
Tarpon RV Park & Marina
226 Basin Street • (956) 943-2040 tarponrvpark.com
—Eateries—
Dirty Al’s
201 S Garcia Street • (956) 943-3344 • dirtyalspi.com
Joe’s Oyster Bar
207 E Maxan Street • (956) 943-4501
Pier 19
1 Padre Boulevard • (956) 761-7437 • pier19.us
Will and Jacks Burger Shack & Beer Garden
413 E Maxan Street • (956) 640-7440
The Cajuns of South Louisiana are known for their interest in spicy food and exotic flavors, but fishermen all along the northern Gulf Coast have their secret culinary delicacies as well. Most anglers who have grilled a monster blackfish appreciate the fish’s sweet and delicate cheek meat, but only the truly old school fully uses the bounty of these waters and can turn a fish carcass into blackfish jelly. Generations on the coast have long kept this culinary knowledge secret, yet it was fading into “culinary backwaters” until a revival of interest saved these savory treats from vanishing. These are some of my favorites.
Perhaps shrimp throats, aka “spiders,” are among the more common and likely the easiest to go mainstream. On the larger, jumbo to colossal-sized white shrimp, there is a bit of sweet meat that is nearly always wasted. Easily freed by placing an index finger into the head along the bottom and pushing down, this tasty nugget when washed, spiced, breaded, and fried is an amazing twist on shrimp meat with a unique texture and becomes a perfect and delicious finger food.
Mullets are one of the rare species of fish to have a gizzard, similar to a bird. Mullets are bottom feeders and it is best to only use the gizzard from mullets caught near the islands offshore where bottoms are sandy and not full of mud. The mullet gizzard is a small little nodule about the size of a fingernail and located after the throat. It must be sliced open and thoroughly washed before being simply spiced, battered and fried, just like the shrimp “spiders”—a tasty treat.
Red snapper are highly prized along the entire Gulf Coast, but from the piers of Galveston, Texas, to Orange Beach, Alabama, the snapper throats are simply tossed out. Yet these throats on the larger snappers are filled with delicate meat between the pectoral fins and are almost always scraped off the fish stations into the water for crabs or pelicans. I knew of a group of cruisers from Pascagoula, Mississippi, that would often do the voyage to Destin, Florida, along the ICW and arrive as the Destin charter boats were docking and the fish was being cleaned. Florida’s charter captains always found it a bit curious that these Mississippi natives would walk up and ask for these discarded portions of the large snappers. That was until they tasted the snapper throats scaled, spiced, breaded, and fried.
There is obviously a theme here regarding the frying of these tiny leftover morsels of meat, but with reason: They’re delicious and have a sweetness to them not found in the other meatier portions of fish or shrimp that is accentuated by the spicy batters of the Gulf Coast. Ask anyone who’s tried the little thumb-sized scallop of meat above and behind a redfish’s eyes.
Go for it and try one of these Gulf Coast’s unique delicacies. A nice comeback sauce and saltines will certainly help for that first sampling.
By Troy Gilbert, Southern Boating Magazine April 2016
As boaters, we love our waterways in Texas and Louisiana—they’re our stomping grounds. Whether our boats take us to a favorite fishing spot for those big reds or that secluded little beach for an afternoon with family and friends, our lives would never be the same without access to and the freedom found on the water. We may not realize it, but boaters are natural environmentalists. No one wants to anchor off that prized beach and find it covered in trash or discover that a secret fishing hole is devoid of fish. Luckily, boaters are becoming increasingly aware of the many issues that affect the health of their waters, and there are multitudes of ways for them to give back.
Perhaps the easiest method is to simply enroll as a member or “friend” of a nonprofit organization that seeks to restore and preserve favorite waterways and cruising grounds. These organizations’ dedicated teams of volunteers conduct water quality samples, plant marsh grasses, and fishermen assist in conducting fish surveys.
If giant nonprofits receive the most charitable donations, they may also tend to have the highest cost overhead and expenses to cover before your money is brought into direct action. However, throughout the Gulf Coast there are small organizations made up of volunteers—many might be your neighbors or friends at the marina—for whom $50 or $100 would go a long way to help preserve a favorite boating or fishing ground. Here are a few of our trusted organizations, but a simple Google search will help you find a nonprofit group dedicated to your favorite bay, lake or estuary. So log on and make that donation. Better yet, deliver some much-needed cash as you sign up for a few volunteer hours and have another excuse to get out on the water.
Coastal Conservation Association-Texas: Dedicated to the restoration of the once highly productive marine fisheries along the Texas Gulf Coast as well as her barrier islands, the CCA-Texas is a devoted division of the larger Coastal Conservation Association, which has been highly successful in their attempts at preserving and growing recreational and commercial fisheries. ccatexas.org
Gulf Restoration Network (Gulf Wide): Covering the health and preservation of the entire Gulf of Mexico, this organization and their efforts came into real prominence immediately following the BP oil spill off the Louisiana coast in 2010. While it’s a medium-sized organization, this group and their army of volunteers are very active throughout the Gulf Coast from the planting of marsh grasses to the restoration of barrier islands and the preservation of fishing grounds. healthygulf.org
Lower Laguna Madre Foundation:Dedicated to preserving the Laguna Madre that stretches nearly the entire southern Gulf Coast of Texas, the organization is a major advocate for preserving the recreational use, habitats and smart economic development along this incredible natural resource. lowerlagunamadrefoundation.com
By Harlen Leslie, Southern Boating Magazine March 2016
With boating season warming up on the Texas Gulf Coast, thoughts are turning to cruising destinations with white sandy beaches or to docking up at waterfront seafood restaurants with friends and family. While everyone has their favorite port of call, often overlooked as cruising destinations are the sailing regattas held throughout the waterways of Texas. Whether you own a sailboat or have always been a powerboater, these events offer an unmatched boating experience as an on-the-water spectator to the action or as a participant convoying to a raft-up. Afterward, the marinas and yacht clubs fill up for the legendary post-event parties with live music, food and sailors from throughout the Gulf Coast. Here is a sampling of regattas and cruising events along the Texas and southwestern Louisiana coasts that should be on your radar for 2016, and all have facilities to accommodate transient cruisers looking to attend the party.
From cruising events at your local yacht club to major regattas where anchoring in the spectators’ area provides great views of the action, there are ample opportunities to get out on the water with friends and family and make new Texas boating memories this year.
J/70 North American Championship
Seabrook, Texas; May 19-22: An entire flotilla of these little speedsters will descend on the Lakewood Yacht Club for four days of events and on-the-water excitement. Drop an anchor to watch some of the top sailors in North America showcase their prowess and then enjoy the endless hospitality of one of the finest clubs on the Texas coast.j70nac.com
Race to the Border
Galveston to South Padre Island, Texas; May 28th to June 2nd: The 8th running of this biennial regatta hosted by the Galveston Bay Cruising Association and the Laguna Madre Yacht Club offers the perfect opportunity for cruisers and powerboaters to participate in a distance event along the Texas coast. Running for 240 miles, the event has specific classes tailored for cruisers and even has a “Jalapeño” class, which is geared for floating parties. Regatta participants overrun the town of Port Isabel and the nearby beaches.racetotheborder.com
GT300 and the Ruff Rider
Laguna Madre, Texas; June 15-18 and Labor Day weekend: Texas is known for big things and so it is with sailing. These two major distance races for beach cats are legendary the world over. Sailing the Laguna Madre, the two-person teams on Hobie-style catamarans trek nearly the entire coast of Texas with beach parties along the way. greattexas300.com; ruffrider.net
Harvest Moon Regatta
Galveston to Port Aransas, Texas; October 13-15: One of the largest cruising and sailing events on the entire Gulf Coast, nearly 200 yachts participate in this regatta to Port Aransas hosted by the Lakewood Yacht Club. Many large powerboats make the cruise alongside the regatta, but it is recommended to reserve slip space early. harvestmoonregatta.com
By Harlen Leslie, Southern Boating Magazine January 2016
The Gulf of Mexico is a true tropical sea and one of the deepest bodies of water in the world. From the height of a cruise ship, one might not notice that the electric blue expanse is teaming with life from aquatic animals such as giant Kemp-Ridley turtles and recently discovered 55-foot-long Baleen whales. Stirred by the Great Loop Current that flies between Cuba and Mexico’s Yucatan peninsula at over four knots, this current eventually becomes the Gulf Stream that affects the weather and ecology as far away as England. However, this warm current also throws off giant eddies into the Gulf and feeds one of the most unique ecosystems in North America—the Flower Garden Banks.
Located a little over 100 miles offshore of Galveston, Texas, the Flower Garden is the most unique and extensive coral reef system in all of North America and considered to be the most pristine in the entire Western Hemisphere due to its relative remote location. Designated a Marine Sanctuary in 1992 by the U.S., this flourishing ecosystem is made possible by giant underground salt domes that push up the deep, featureless seabed to within 60 feet of the surface and allow an undersea oasis of tropical life. The nearest coral reef is 400 miles south along the coast of Mexico and as such, it has become a secret scuba-diving magnet and cruising layover in the Gulf of Mexico by boat owners in the know.
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First discovered by fishermen in the late 1800s who suddenly noticed bright, vibrant colors beneath the waves, this marine sanctuary is now known to harbor more than 20 species of tropical corals and over 180 species of fish. Comprised of three separate salt domes that rise up and plateau, the largest expands out over 250 acres. As a designated marine sanctuary, fishing and anchoring are not allowed by law, however, there are three mooring fields that are available to transient cruisers in the deep waters of the Gulf of Mexico where the depths below them explode in color.
As a well-known overnight scuba-diving site, charters and private boats tend to visit on two- or three-day excursions primarily in the summer when the water is over 80 degrees. As such, mooring availability may get a bit tight. For cruisers who do not dive, it’s still a unique destination in the great expanse of the Gulf of Mexico to tie up and enjoy the blue waters where colors rise from the depths and the stars follow after sunset. February is also a heavily visited month due to the hordes of thousands of hammerhead sharks that transit the banks annually.
Texas, like much of the West, has been battling ferocious droughts for much of this decade. The effects are cascading throughout the boating world as some reservoirs used by recreational cruisers become severely depleted and rivers that feed the estuaries dry up and negatively influence the breeding grounds for fish and commercial seafood harvests. With the insatiable thirst from growing cities such as Houston and Austin, there simply isn’t enough water to go around and fights are brewing between economic interests built up around these reservoirs, cities, commercial fishing, and farming.
The effects are severe enough that many sailing and boating organizations regularly post updates on water legislation alongside photos of regattas or fishing tournaments where lower water levels are clearly visible along shorelines. Lakes such as Ray Hubbard, Granbury and Nocona have reached record low water levels since their dams were constructed in the 1960s and Lake Whitney alone has dropped 13 feet. Public ramps on Lake Travis have been closed due to the low water levels, and marina operators have to shift boat slips further from shore and into deeper waters. Cruiser safety is also becoming an issue in some places as boats hit shallows or newly exposed debris causing significant damages to hulls or engines.
As rivers and creeks dry up, so do the estuaries that are the nursery grounds for redfish, speckled trout, black drum, and flounder. As saltwater moves in to replenish the depleted fresh water, entire ecosystems are being damaged. Gulf oysters that normally thrive in the bays from Port Aransas to Galveston are taking huge hits from the hyper-salinity levels that are occurring. The effects are beginning to reverberate throughout the $17 billion tourism economy along the Texas Gulf Coast in higher costs and smaller recreational and commercial fishing hauls.
Texans recently voted to dip into a $2 billion “rainy day” fund in order to create new reservoirs, water pipelines and to fund new conservation projects. While not as heavily affected by the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in 2010, Texas could also reap another billion dollars from impending fines against BP, and these funds should go directly into coastal conservation and reconstruction projects. However, individuals have expressed concern that some of this money could be redirected towards projects that have nothing to do with environmental restoration, just as Alabama recently did by directing millions from these penalties toward a hotel project.
Texas has a unique boating culture that has grown up around these reservoirs, and combined with the state’s already wild and beautiful rivers and coastline, every effort should be made to not sacrifice them for the sake of water intensive lawns or even rice farming. While Texas is faring better than states such as California, which is being ravaged by drought, it is crucial to protect the waters that make Texas such a beautiful state for all boating activities.
The Gulf Coast has a long history of artisanal boatbuilding that stretches back to when it was first settled. Marrying Native American designs with European influences and tools birthed entire classes of boats uniquely suited to regional waterways all along the coast. With the arrival of fiberglass and the consolidation of boatbuilding into large corporate enterprises, many traditions and generational knowledge were on the verge of being lost. However, there is a recent resurgence of artisanal builders with legacies and techniques being rediscovered that result in gorgeous, fully functional nearshore and inshore boats ideal for these coastlines.
In southern Louisiana, French colonists quickly learned that their deep-hulled European vessels were not navigable in the naturally shallow bayous, so they adopted the designs of the Indians’ flat-bottomed, 16-foot boats that were carved and burned out of single cypress logs. As these pirogue (pee-rouge) developed and became the standard for trappers and fishermen, eventually cypress planks were used to significantly drop weight and further the boats’ maneuverability in shallow marshes.
Today, Cajun craftsmen like Tony Latiolais of Henderson, Louisiana, in the Atchafalaya Basin utilize “sinker” cypress logs reclaimed from the bottom of bayous and logged swamps. Other builders like Keith Felder of Denham Springs, Louisiana, are constructing them out of marine-grade plywood and finishing with cypress. Stacked on board powerboats, these boats are prized possessions that allow duck hunting enthusiasts to enter shallow ponds and sloughs off the deeper bayous. They are now being revisited by anglers who tackle the incredibly productive fishing grounds of the Louisiana marsh and are ideal for cruisers looking to explore shallower, protected bayous.
Boatbuilding is an evolutionary process and Texan craftsmen are joining traditional wooden boats with modern styles to create hybrid designs that serve the creeks and near-shore waters of their state. Craftsman David Escobedo of Escobedo Boatworks is doing this on the outskirts of San Antonio in the one-horse town of Buda, Texas. His boat Sea Dart is a 16-foot lapstrake-type build that combines the look of a canoe and a kayak ideal for lake or creek fishing, as well as hunting redfish along the coast.
Arrowhead Custom Boats in Austin, Texas, is another wooden boatbuilder helmed by David Nichols, who has long embraced the art and traditions of classic construction. His boats range from traditional canoes to ideal fly-fishing platforms.
Part of the resurgence of these wooden shallow-draft boats and classic Gulf Coast boats like the Lafitte Skiff were initiated by the determination of organizations such as the Center for Traditional Louisiana Boatbuilding and wooden boat festivals such as the hugely popular celebration in Madisonville, Louisiana. Small maritime museums like the one in Port Aransas, Texas, are also determined to re-introduce these skills and knowledge. Many of these organizations conduct traditional boatbuilding classes and are reviving these old processes and designs, which are creating a new legacy of hobbyists and entrepreneurs who are constructing beautiful heirloom paddleboats.
If you’re cruising along the Simon Bolivar Peninsula, don’t be surprised to see cattle drives with Texas cowboys moving their herds over two-lane highways crossing the ICW. The wide Texas beaches on the coast hide cattle country and oil derricks and slowly give way to raised beach houses with names like “Gulf Breeze” or “Jolie’s Hideaway.” The inevitable one-horse beach shop with their airbrush artisan and seashell wind chimes are also there, but sail past historic Fort Travis and the Bolivar Lighthouse rising on the western tip of the peninsula, and Galveston Island beckons with her historic architecture, beaches and maritime culture.
Once known as a gambling mecca until the Texas Rangers raided the town, Galveston was also the largest port on the Texas coast, pulling down cotton and cattle from the interior and ushering in generations of Indian fighters and future Texas land barons. Crossing the Houston Ship Channel to the island is spectacular, with its never-ending run of modern freighters bypassing Galveston and heading into Houston or sailing to points unknown. This leaves the island town with a different sort of nautical energy today—one of history, charter captains and resortwear.
Located on the island’s northwestern edge, the Galveston Yacht Basin is a full-service private marina and an ideal transient slip location to begin an exploration of the island. Filled with charter fishing vessels, the piers hum with skippers tinkering on their boats or, more likely, catching naps in the ubiquitous land tenders—their golf carts lining the marina. Dockside restaurants are sprouting up around the marina, and certain piers in the channel will get transients within easy walking distance of the historic downtown and seaport.
The Texas Seaport Museum with her beautifully restored 1877 Tall Ship Elissa is an ideal start to get your bearings. Lunch next door waterside at the Olympia Grill or Willie G’s and savor the contrast of Elissa with berthed luxury yachts and the modern cruise liners that now call Galveston their home port.
A surfer searches for the perfect wave on Galveston Island Beach. Photo: Galveston Island CVBPhiladelphia Mummers perform during Mardis Gras Galveston; Photo: Galveston Island CVBMoody Mansion was built in 1895 and offers tours. Photo: Galveston Island CVBPier 21 is home to 1877 Tall Ship Elissa. Photo: Troy GilbertTangerine Boutique is one of more than 100 unique shops downtown. Photo: Galveston Island CVBMoody Garden Colonel Paddlewheel Boat; Photo: Galveston Island CVBMoody Gardens Aquarium Pyramid and golf course; Photo: Galveston Island CVBGalveston Beach; Photo: Galveston Island CVBThe Pelican Rest Marina; Photo: Troy GilbertMardi Gras in Galveston, TX; Photo: Lee Deforke, Jr.Pier 21 is one of the most magical spots on the Island, home to restaurants, annual events, and next door to Texas Seaport Museum. Photo: Galveston Island CVB
A block away is the Strand—Galveston’s historic Victorian-era shopping district. Filled with unique shops and whimsical cafes with wrought-iron balconies on the restored historic buildings, the Strand is the pulse of Galveston. Shop at the Admiralty for some of the finest ship replicas constructed from scratch using their original ship plans, or enjoy freshly made saltwater taffy at LaKing’s Confectionary. Catch a carriage ride through the historic residential neighborhoods filled with homes straight out of New Orleans’ Garden District. Tour or catch a show at the Grand 1894 Opera House before finishing with dinner and drinks at the legendary Rudy & Paco’s—reservations are a must.
Coastal artists abound and the street simply known now as Postoffice is full of galleries showcasing enough nautical art to adorn your vessel’s staterooms. Keep an eye peeled for the work of Gay Paratore, Robert Peterson and Gayle Reynolds. Postoffice is also home to many pubs and coffee shops and only a few blocks from the historic home tours on Broadway where massive stone mansions rise—Bishop’s Palace built in 1892 and the 1895 Moody Mansion are majestic.
Galveston—like much of the Gulf Coast—has been subject to the ravages of hurricanes throughout her history. In 1900, a massive storm struck the island and drowned over 6,000 residents. It is important to remember while walking the historic districts and neighborhoods of the island that after this storm, residents banded together and embarked on one of the most unheralded engineering feats in American history. Every surviving structure—from massive mansions to humble homes with picket fences and down to the lowliest barns—was raised up on stilts and piers to an average of eight feet high. Gargantuan amounts of dredge from Offatts Bayou to the southwest were then painstakingly pumped in to raise the grade of 500 city blocks. Streets, sidewalks and utilities were then rebuilt as well as a massive beachfront seawall, which again has become the playground of Texas. Today, the bustling seawall is filled with fishing piers, restaurants and 32 miles of beaches quietly rolling with surf from the Gulf of Mexico. Stroll the giant old-school Pleasure Pier, with her amusement rides and restaurants jutting straight out over the Gulf. Relax and fish off the piers before taking in dinner at the classic coastal seafood restaurant and cherished dining tradition, Gaido’s, which has run continuously since 1911—do not miss the charbroiled oysters brought in fresh from nearby Port Aransas.
Nearly all of the beaches in Galveston are open to the public with the most scenic being East and Stewart Beaches. Pack an ice chest and enjoy the warm Gulf waters, where a nice building wind from the east will even allow surfing. Keep your eyes peeled for Texans with their trucks and Jeeps, for nearly all of Texas allows vehicular traffic on the beaches.
Galveston is filled with museums and amusements for children. With the connection to the oil industry, a giant Drilling Rig Museum sits in the harbor, and the Railroad Museum resides on the Strand. Harbor tours run from the Seaport, and there are public golf and putt-putt courses as well as a multitude of water parks, state parks and hiking trails.
For an exciting and romantic evening boat over to Offatts Bayou and tie up at the Pelican Rest Marina. This private facility is angling to become its own mini-resort with a pool and adjacent tiki bars. The upscale steakhouse of Number 13 overlooks the grounds with ship’s captains cruising from pier party to pier party on giant tricycles. From the decks, the massive lighted pyramids of Moody Gardens and the Colonel Paddlewheeler across the bayou reflect on the waters while Jimmy Buffett cover bands work their magic.
Immediately next door to the Pelican Rest Marina is the multi-million dollar construction for the future home of the Sea Scouts in Texas. With private funding this facility and marina is set to become a world-class maritime school and camp for the Sea Scouts and will be an important educational facility for training the next generation of cruisers and sailors on the Gulf Coast.
Within a few hours’ sail north of Galveston lies the famous Kemah Boardwalk. With ample transient slips available, this giant amusement park and retail/dining establishment is filled with energy and hosts concerts and shore-side entertainment. Kemah and the areas nearby are filled with facilities for cruisers.
Galveston is home to residents who can trace their island roots back to when pirate Jean Lafitte roamed these shores. Filled with islanders enjoying their southern gardens, charter captains swapping fish tales at their favorite watering holes, and artists setting up easels to capture the sunsets, Galveston is one of those rare spots on the Texas coast that feels more in tune with the rhythms of the Gulf Coast than the bustling cities and sprawling ranches of the interior. The island and her residents are ready and waiting for you to tie up, walk her palm and oak-lined streets, and dig your feet into Texas sand.
