An extended weekend on Captiva Island’s South Seas Island Resort creates moments and memories that linger.
When it comes to destination resorts, the type of accommodations, facilities and activities they offer and the guests they cater to run the gamut. You can find any kind of resort experience you’re looking for no matter whom you’re traveling with and how long you plan to stay. Some properties are geared specifically to adults on a partying weekend and provide all-inclusive bar and restaurant service. Others focus on romantic getaways for couples or offer large spaces and meeting rooms for conferences or tailor their furnishings and events to families with children of all ages.
Cruise into Luxury
There are few hybrid resorts that are able to offer a multitude of experiences that appeal to most but are presented as a guest experience that’s specific to individuals’ own tastes and preferences. Though it’s rare, I found this to be especially true when I spent several days with Julia, my “daughter-in-love” from Wisconsin, at South Seas Island Resort on Captiva Island, Florida.
Offshore cruisers on Florida’s Gulf Coast have easy access to the Yacht Harbour & Marina at South Seas Island Resort through Redfish Pass. Just inside the pass, turn south along the seawall and keeping green markers to port, turn to starboard into the well-marked channel just after green marker #9—you can’t miss it. Those with trailered boats 30 feet and smaller will drive to Bayside Marina in the South Village to use the ramp; overnight slips are available for boats under 25 feet.
Resort guests who prefer to leave their boats at home can still get out on the water with a fishing charter, sunset cruise or do what we did: take a sailing lesson through Steve and Doris Colgate’s Offshore Sailing School, which enables new sailors to earn US Sailing certification that qualifies them to skipper a boat up to 50 feet. Even though Julia and I are nowhere near ready to take a sailboat out by ourselves, the lesson was exciting and fun, and our instructor was very patient with our lack of experience and put us at ease—I highly recommend it. offshoresailing.com
Shellebrate the Good Times
South Seas Island Resort comprises 330 acres, but not all of it is built up with concrete buildings and tarmac roads. Much of it has been preserved in its natural setting, so for
nature buffs, wildlife and especially birds are prevalent on the property. Being from Wisconsin, Julia is familiar with wildlife there but particularly enjoyed seeing the dolphins
enter the marina as she watched from the patio of our two bedroom villa overlooking the marina entrance and Pine Island Sound. By the last day of our stay, she knew exactly
where to get a close-up view and take videos to share with her husband, daughters, and students. She’s a preschool teacher, so every experience is a learning opportunity, a
mindset we have in common.
South Seas Island Resort accommodations come in all shapes and sizes, so whether you’re traveling with a family, or on your honeymoon or on a girls’ trip, there’s an option
that suits. Love the beach? Stay in a beach villa or cottage, and make sure you get in on the weekly SHELLebration at Sunset Beach with live music from 4 PM to 7 PM. Traditional
hotel rooms, suites, villas, and even an entire house with a Gulf view can be found here.
If all you’re interested in is some R&R with quality pool time, you’ll be quite satisfied with
one of the private poolside cabanas. Julia and I recommend Cabana #1 that overlooks Pine Island Sound for some premium relaxation time with a view. When excessive amounts of R&R work up your appetite, there’s no shortage of dining options whether
you’re beachside, poolside, dockside, or cruising the island on your golf cart from Sunny Island Adventures.
Fill ‘er Up
Scoops & Slices is a cute diner with booths and tables that resembles an ice cream shop from the 1950s. One entire wall contains self-serve candy bins, so let this serve as a warning of major amounts of sugar coming your way. But this diner isn’t only for the kids in your crew. There’s also beer and wine on tap for the grown-ups, plus there are family-sized specials like spaghetti with meatballs (like mom used to make), garlic bread and salad that they’ll pack up for you to enjoy in your room or condo.
Even if you cook the majority of your meals in your own condo, you will not want to miss dining out at Harbourside Bar & Grill. The full breakfast menu with Gulf-caught shrimp and grits is a terrific way to start your morning overlooking the marina. Evening specials change frequently, but locally caught fresh seafood is always a favorite. As an added bonus, if you were especially lucky on a fishing charter, they will even clean and cook your catch for you. Make sure you save room for some delicious dessert. The pumpkin crème Brulee is sublime.
Whether you are on your honeymoon, traveling with friends, with a family, or just enjoying a long weekend getting to know your son’s wife a little bit better, South Seas
Island Resort not only accommodates but also customizes an experience that will foster memories that will last you a lifetime.
Mardi Gras’s Fat Tuesday may not begin until March 5th, but festivities start in February.
Marching bands and floats brighten up many Gulf coastal towns. Masked krewe members carry armloads of plastic beads. Wave your arms and scream, “Hey Mister!” Ground zero for Mardi Gras is New Orleans’ French Quarter. If you’ve never been, go. But even before the big day, you can holler for trinkets at parades in the Old Quarter and in the Uptown section.
Galveston Island has been doing Mardi Gras for 108 years, and it has grown to a
14-day calendar of activities that bring about 350,000 to parades and festivals with live
bands and delicious food.
Just about every Mississippi Gulf Coast town from Bay St. Louis to Pascagoula has eat-drink-and-be-merry festivals and parades. Some have unique parade themes. Biloxi, for
example, will crown the “King and Queen of the Krewe of Barkloxi.” Dog owners and
their dogs wear lookalike costumes.
Mobile, Alabama, deservedly calls itself the birthplace of Mardi Gras celebrations
in North America. Mobile Carnival Museum displays old floats, crowns, gowns, and
photographs dating back to 1886. The history-rich city at the top of Mobile Bay hosts
almost 50 parades in February and in the first five days of March.
The four-day Mardi Gras weekend at Gulf Shores and Orange Beach includes a 12-mile
boat parade via the ICW from The Wharf Marina in Orange Beach to Homeport Marina.
Lucy Buffett’s restaurant, Lulu’s, next to Homeport, welcomes all to “keep the party
going” with live music. Costumes and masks might get you a spot closer to the band, so
laissez le bon temps rouler!
The two sister beaches of Sanibel and Captiva are some of the prettiest in the world.
It’s 7:30 and the sun is already well above the horizon. As I step out onto the dock, an osprey circles above a school of sea trout holding in a nearby channel. There’s a decision to be made now, and I carefully consider my choices: Do I pull up a chair on the bay side with a beautiful view of Pine Island Sound or walk 100 yards to the Gulf shore to see what new seashells have washed up overnight? It’s a tough choice, I know, but I’m happy to have options, which is what the beautiful Floridian isles of Sanibel and Captiva are all about. This morning, I’ll look for shells.
A Likely Pairing
Wedged between Charlotte Harbor to the northeast and Estero Bay to the southeast, Sanibel and Captiva are the largest in a chain of barrier islands that come across as super-tourist yet surprisingly laid back. Relatively long and narrow, they offer easy access to the Gulf of Mexico for serious offshore fishing adventures and open-throttle cruises. At the same time, this is where Florida’s Gulf Coast Intercoastal Waterway (ICW) begins, allowing boaters to tuck inside Pine Island Sound where waters are generally mellow but some routes run shallow. Between these entertaining access routes, Sanibel stretches for roughly 12 miles while Captiva sprawls for another five. Both offer sandy beaches, amazing shelling, fine dining, plus a small-town feel that belies bountiful amenities and provisioning potential.
Historically speaking, Sanibel and Captiva have endured a few weather bumps over the years. A pair of hurricanes tore through here in the 1920s and Hurricane Charlie, a
category four storm, crushed the area in 2004. So bad was the devastation after Charlie that many marinas, resorts, and businesses had to completely rebuild. In doing so,
however, most reset the bar with significant upgrades. The local community also decided to work hard at balancing their tourist-based economy with a deep respect for the
environment. That choice turned out to be a winner as the islands bounced back with a vengeance, their tourism buoyed by the recognition of how big a role access to clean water and abundant wildlife plays in attracting visitors.
Arriving
Getting to both Sanibel and Captiva is fairly straightforward. Both are accessible by land or boat. Since there are no marinas residing seaward on the Gulf front, the vast majority of boaters approach from the ICW in Pine Island Sound. If you’re coming from the open Gulf, however, you can tuck inside to easily reach Sanibel Marina at Point Ybel, or slide through Redfish Pass to reach the marina at South Seas Island Resort on Captiva. Note that Blind Pass, another passage to the ICW, carries a low clearance designation on the charts.
Once on the inside route, Jensen’s Captiva Island Beach and Marina Resorts, McCarthy’s Marina and the marina at ’Tween Waters Inn Island Resort & Spa provide easy access
to Captiva. From any of these, you can walk to the Gulf-side beaches, or grab a cab or bike to reach other destinations. To access Sanibel Island, opt for either Sanibel Marina or
Port Sanibel Marina. While seas are generally mild on the inside approach, be aware that some cuts outside of the main channels have water depths of five feet or less at mean low
water. Thus, if you have a deep-draft vessel you might want to rent something smaller to cruise around after tying up your primary rig. Either way, watch out for manatees, which are plentiful throughout the system.
What we talk about when we talk about leisure
Once settled in, let the fun begin. Outdoors lovers and fitness buffs will absolutely love this area; opportunities to get out and do your thing are not only widely available, they are often enhanced. On Sanibel, for example, you’ll find 25 miles of paved bike paths. Captiva has no official bike routes, but you can cycle the main road from one end to the other, and Cayo Costa State Park, a short boat ride to the north of North Captiva Island, features six miles of wooded biking/hiking trails plus nine miles of open beach for walking and running.
If you would rather stay on the water while getting in a workout, fear not. Kayaks and stand-up paddleboards (SUPs) are widely available. At Sanibel Pilates and Ambu Yoga you can meditate on the beach or try SUP yoga. To tour by paddle power, head over to Adventure Sea Kayaks at ’Tween Waters Inn on Captiva and enter the small cove in Buck Key to find seahorses, jumping mullet and all sorts of bird life. More adventurous paddlers can hook up with Tarpon Bay Explorers at the J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge. There, an hour-and-a-half kayak tour leads through one of the largest
mangrove ecosystems in the country. It is magnificent.
Feel like trying something completely different? Sanibel and Captiva are among the top shelling destinations in the world. What’s shelling, you ask? It’s just as it sounds; you
walk the beach gathering interesting and beautiful seashells. The difference here is that beaches like Bowman’s Beach on Sanibel or Blind Pass (Turner Beach) on Captiva will find
you ankle-deep in shells. More than 250 varieties wait to be discovered here, some of which are exceedingly rare, of scientific significance or even worth a few bucks. A large junonia shell, for example, can bring $150 at a local shell shop; someone finds one nearly every week. When you’ve finished collecting for the day, be sure to check out the
Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum.
Happy as a Clam?
For some shell collectors, the best shell on the beach is not the perfect shell but rather one with a flaw, a little round hole and a true story that goes with it. That clam was murdered in cold blood. The clam was the victim of a carnivorous sea snail, and it wasn’t
a fair fight. The sea snail used its tongue as a secret weapon. The tongue, called a radula, drilled a small, round hole through the clam. Then its multitasking tongue sucked the nutritious life out of that mollusk.
You’re right; it’s a shell-eat-shell world out there. Buried-in-sand bivalves can be
found on all Gulf barrier islands. Pensacola Beach has a lot. Some shell collectors string them up as necklaces. The beaches of Sanibel Island near Fort Myers have shell abundance and variety, including many murdered clams.
Sanibel’s South Florida geography helps. Unlike other barrier islands in this area, Sanibel Island has an east-west beach that traps sought-after shells from southern waters, including the Caribbean.
Anglers, too, have plenty of options in these waters. Sea trout, redfish, and snook abound inside Pine Island Sound. On the Gulf side, tasty tripletail hang near buoy chains, sheepshead surround rock piles, and king mackerel cruise nearshore waters. Offshore, snapper, grouper, mahi, and tuna are on the menu while jack crevalle, summer flounder,
and snook can be caught at most passes. Boca Grande Pass to the north of Cayo Costa is famous for its tarpon run in late April and May. Capt. Ryan Kane at Southern Instinct
Fishing Charters can put you on the fish.
Dining Options Abound
As for dining out, it’s hard to go wrong here. Among dozens of fine eateries, The Lazy Flamingo has restaurants on both Sanibel and Captiva. Catch your own fish and they’ll
cook ’em three different ways. Doc Ford’s Rum Bar also has establishments on both islands. This is a great family retreat with a unique, Caribbean menu. Try the Yucatan Shrimp, with real butter, garlic, mild Columbian chilies, cilantro, spices, and key lime juice. On Sanibel, the upscale Sweet Melissa’s is a heathy choice that sources locally, while the Blue Coyote Supper Club is a golf club bistro serving steaks and other
American fare.
Additional places to dine on Captiva include the romantic Mad Hatter, plus Old Captiva House at the oft-mentioned ’Tween Waters Inn. In addition to great eats, the latter spot
has hermit crab races! There are also five Captiva restaurants on Rossi Lane, just a short stroll from both Jensen’s and McCarthy’s marinas. All are worth a visit.
For dining right on the water, Sanibel-Grandma Dot’s serves up terrific sandwiches and salads in an open-air setting at Sanibel Marina, while the Green Flash on Captiva offers a
nice selection of appetizers and soups, fresh grouper, salmon, Mahi, and tripletail—plus choice ribeye steaks and veal chops.
The best time? Anytime
While Sanibel and Captiva can be enjoyed year-round, March/April and October/November are ideal weather months and therefore see the most visitors. Afternoon thunderstorms are typical in the summer and September is usually the quietest month, but be advised—many of the island’s businesses operate on reduced hours or shut down completely in late summer for renovations and vacation.
Regardless of when or where you tie up in this secluded neck of the woods, you’re in for a rare treat. Sanibel/Captiva isn’t a destination you land on by mistake. It’s a special excursion to be premeditated for sure, but once you’ve arrived, odds are you’ll make the same effort to return over and over again, each time turning over a new leaf—or seashell, as it were.
Glancing at your charts, Sanibel and Captiva might look like nothing more than a couple of big sand spits, but they certainly pack a punch as standout boating destinations. The
townsfolk are friendly, the marinas are professional, and the great outdoors are front and center every day, everywhere. Indeed, there’s no way to fully cover these gems in a single short visit, but as I mentioned at the outset, it sure is nice to have choices.
Cruiser Resources
MARINAS
Jensen’s Captiva Island Beach and Marina
Resorts, Captiva
Vessels up to 40 feet
(239) 472-5800 gocaptiva.com
McCarthy’s Marina, Captiva
Vessels up to 24 feet
(239) 472-5200
Port Sanibel Marina, Sanibel
Vessels up to 65 feet
(239) 437-1660 portsanibelmarina.com
Sanibel Marina, Sanibel
Vessels up to 100 feet
(239) 215-2445 sanibelmarina.com
‘Tween Waters Inn Island Resort & Spa, Captiva
Vessels up to 130 feet
(239) 472-5161 tween-waters.com
In January, both manatees and boaters are on the move looking for pleasant temperatures and good food. As long as sea cows stay in the shallow and captains stay in the deep, all is well. Captains and mates spot manatee shapes at their seagrass restaurants by the flip of a tail, a swirl of water and nostrils nosing the surface. Be ready to back away, captain.
Don’t let them nose up to your propeller. Sea cows get pretty curious sometimes, and not in a safe way. Florida’s manatee population is coming back—careful boaters deserve some of the credit for that—and seagrass acreage is expanding thanks to clean water initiatives throughout Florida. But here’s another item on the good citizens’ to-do list. If you see an injured manatee, call it into Florida Fish and Wildlife (FWC).
Florida Fly Fishing converges on the Crystal River
Fly fishers of all skill levels meet up in central Florida February 9-10, for the 2018 Florida Fly Fishing Expo, to see the latest in fly fishing gear displays, boats, and kayak exhibits, and fly casting and fly-tying classes. The venue is Plantation Inn on Crystal River, an on-the-water resort with spacious grounds and meeting rooms for all the demonstrations, classes and seminars led by acclaimed fly fishing experts brought in by the Florida Council of Fly Fishers International. The $25 entrance fee includes full access to seminars, demonstrations and a Friday meet-and-greet with food and beverages.
It’s all Greek to me! Traditions run deep in Tarpon Springs.
North of Tampa Bay on Florida’s Gulf Coast, the Anclote River marks the end of the Florida Gulf Intracoastal Waterway Mile 150 and the entrance, upriver, to the city of Tarpon Springs, a true gem for visitors arriving by land or sea.
This quaint and picturesque community carries a history steeped in Greek culture, heritage, and religion, the stories of which are displayed throughout the town on murals and carried on through traditions that are sure to make an impression. It makes sense; Tarpon Springs boasts (by percentage) the largest population of Greek Americans anywhere in the U.S.
Spongey
Permanently enriched by the Mediterranean heritage brought by the sponge divers and their families who arrived at the turn of the 20th century, the Hellenic influence remains strong in Tarpon Springs to this day. George Billiris was a prominent citizen and personification of the history and culture of Tarpon Springs present and past.
Greece had a thriving sponge industry and the only sponge divers in the world, and around 1900, his grandfather emigrated from Greece to develop and work in the sponge industry in Tarpon Springs, where an abundance of sponges was found, which led to migration. In 1940, George was 14 years old and joined the family tradition of diving for sponges. Right up until his death in 2016 at age 89, he was operating a sponge business from a small office along the city’s sponge docks. George’s son now runs the business and carries on the family customs.
Sponge Docks
Indeed, the Greek influence here is strong along Dodecanese Boulevard, commonly referred to as the Sponge Docks. Enjoy strolling in the Greek fishing village, savor authentic dishes at the many Greek restaurants and shop for sponges—the Sponge Factory or Spongeorama are worthwhile stops—and other delights at stores lining the boulevard.
There, you’ll also find the city marina and a visitor center that offers area information, including a detailed map. When you’re all shopped out, consider dining at Shrimp Wrecked, Mykonos or Rusty Bellies to replenish your energy reserves. Or shop ’til you drop at The Sponge Exchange, an outdoor shopping mall with interesting stores, Anclote Brew and Mom’s Restaurant. If you’re up for a leisurely boat ride, along the docks are several boat charters you can board for a sponge diving experience, dolphin viewing or a trip to the beach at Anclote Key. Spongeorama also offers excursions to see dolphins and go to the Anclote Key beach for shelling and finding sponges.
Historic Sites and Sights
It is about a five-minute car ride to the Old Downtown and Historic District, or take the bus or trolley. In the early 1900s, downtown Tarpon Springs was the major center for shopping in this area. The Victorian-style buildings date from 1894 to 1943 and are another representation of the rich heritage of Tarpon Springs. Walk the brick sidewalks under tree canopies, or find a quiet bench and sit between old-fashioned street lamps.
The historic buildings are still a center of commerce for antique shops, boutiques, art galleries, cafés, two microbreweries, bed-and-breakfast inns, and specialty stores. Top-quality, chef-owned restaurants and cafés provide mouthwatering menus flaunting seafood, steaks, Greek favorites, and the chef-owners’ own specialties. The Chamber of Commerce at the corner of East Tarpon Avenue and Pinellas Avenue is a good resource for maps and other helpful information, while the Historical Society Museum & Visitor Center is housed in the original train depot—built in 1909—at 160 East Tarpon Avenue.
Cultures Collide
The City Library, Cultural Center, Tarpon Springs Performing Arts Center, Heritage Museum, Safford House Museum, and the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral are also located in this area. Devotion to Christianity and the Greek Orthodox Church is what led the parents of Nicholas and Peter Stamas from New York City—after emigrating through Ellis Island—to Tarpon Springs, where they opened a hotel and restaurant.
It was in the back of that hotel, in the late 1930s, where Peter and Nicholas built their first boat, a 22-foot wooden cruiser that was awarded first place at the Florida State Fair. Their influence came from Greek craftsman highly skilled at building strong seaworthy vessels, and it was in this unique environment that the Stamas brothers began building boats.
How Did Tarpon Springs Get Its Name?
Tarpon Springs is a short distance up the Anclote River at the north end of Pinellas County. It’s quite well known for its Greek heritage and food and for its downtown sponge docks and boats.
It turns out that the first non-native settlers in Tarpon Springs, A. W. Ormond and his daughter Mary were from Nassau, The Bahamas. They arrived in 1876 and lived on Spring Bayou which connects to the Anclote River. Mary loved to watch the huge schools of fish in Spring Bayou at certain times of the year. The story goes that she started calling it Tarpon Springs.
The problem was, those fish weren’t tarpon; they were mullet, but Tarpon Springs it is. The city celebrates its Greek culture and history at the downtown Sponge Docks, and the Opa! Palooza Greek Festival is June 14-15.
Tradition Runs Deep
Today, after 65 years, Stamas Yachts is the oldest, continuously family-owned boat company in the U.S. Actually, the epicenter for all things Greek in this town might just be the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral. The first structure was built in 1907, and then replaced by the much larger St. Nicholas Cathedral in 1943, and is named after Saint Nicholas, the Patron Saint and protector of all mariners.
The Cathedral is not only beautiful, but it is also home to the largest Theophany celebration in the Western Hemisphere on January 6th, which marks the Christian celebration of Epiphany. The annual event is marked with a procession from the Cathedral to a platform on Spring Bayou. The Archbishop bestows a blessing of the waters, releases a white dove and throws a crafted cross into the water. Then, dozens of 16- to 18-year-old boys dive into the water in search of the cross; the boy who retrieves it is said to have blessings for the rest of the year.
This celebration also includes a “Blessing of the Fleet,” dining, dancing, and revelry as a part of Epiphany’s “Glendi,” the Greek word for festival.
Brother Nature
For visitors who are more inclined to celebrate the outdoors, Tarpon Springs’ warm winter waters are home to manatees and dolphins, while in the spring, eagles and osprey can be
found on their large nests feeding offspring. All this can be experienced by kayak, canoe, nature trails, and tour boats in the beautiful bayous that run through the city. Investing time to explore the many parks throughout the area is well spent since sheltered picnic sites, walking trails, fishing, water access, playgrounds, and wildlife are found in most.
Anclote Key Preserve State Park is located three miles off the coast of Tarpon Springs and is only accessible by boat. Whether you come for the culture and heritage or the shopping and dining, Tarpon Springs will certainly take up residence as a fond place in your heart and memories. Opa!
ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS ADDRESSES IN BOATING is No. 16 Lombard Street, London, England, in the very center of the city’s maritime business district. Sometime around 1691, Edward Lloyd opened a coffee house where men in powdered wigs with a penchant for math and underwriters who practiced stiff upper lip poses negotiated terms to compensate owners should their cargo ships be lost at sea. This was the origin of the famous Lloyd’s of London, a centuries-old insurance house based on a good cup of coffee.
And while I appreciate Keurig machines found on many of today’s finer production yachts, they defeat the social purpose of strolling the docks to discover a sinfully delicious pastry
shop in the most unlikely of places.
An accidental turn to starboard in Naples led me to the Tuscan-themed apartments and marina of the Naples Bay Resort. Wind inward and you’ll discover a 97-slip marina that offers overnight, seasonal and annual marina slip rentals and the Catalina Café. Try their signature lattes, local wild flower honey and homemade ginger syrup. Breakfast sandwiches, picnic lunches to-go and homemade baked goods are a cheerful start to a day’s boating or shopping ventures.
While chartering out of Southwest Florida Yachts in Cape Coral, Florida, my breakfast fix at the French Press resulted in loosening of the PFD straps. How does one turn down a chocolate and banana puree called the Dirty Banana, Filthy Coconut or French Kiss at seven in the morning? Sixteen ounces of hot, iced or blended coffee, along with
mainstays Americano, Red Eye and espresso can delay any well-crafted itinerary. The owners here offer croissants, bagels and for heartier appetites, a full complement of eggs,
bacon, ham or sausage, and cheese. You’ll find them at Cape Harbour Marina.
Speaking of croissants, mariners who are lucky enough to finagle a slip on Boca Grande will want to make the overland trek to The Inn Bakery, the newest addition to The Gasparilla Inn & Club. Boater casual, this storied resort offers signature coffees, morning pastries, sugared doughnuts, and the best cinnamon raisin rolls ever! The marina is open to the public and located on the bayou behind The Inn. Larger vessels up to 100 feet will find accommodations nearby at Boca Grande Marina (formerly Miller’s). Simply rent a golf cart and enjoy the island “Boca Style.”
For purists who prefer a cup of coffee without compromise and favor supporting a start-up sourcing the highest-quality beans from the best farmers across the globe, check out Buddy Brew a few blocks from Marina Jack in Sarasota. The owner is expanding throughout Florida creating exceptional coffees, while building community with a whimsically themed décor. Dog lovers should try the Double Dog Espresso.
St. Petersburg’s waterfront is becoming a “foodie heaven”, which is a far cry from its former moniker “God’s waiting room.” Alive, vibrant and skewing toward the younger, the
hip, new breakfast bistro is The Wooden Rooster. Serving regular, buckwheat or gluten-free crepes, not to mention a great cup of joe, the casual café works closely with local
farmers featuring organic produce, when possible.
Lloyd’s of London may have old-world charm and history, but along Florida’s West Coast, boaters now have many memorable morning destinations to idly pass the time over a
great cup of coffee.
It’s not a hostile takeover, however, like Captain Phillips experienced. In fact, it’s quite the opposite.
On January 28th, Tampa’s flotilla of private pleasure craft intends to defend the city and square off against the annual pirate invasion for an epic weekend of hedonistic celebration. For 113 years, the city has surrendered amidst a cacophony of cannon fire as Jose Gasparilla, the world’s only fully-rigged pirate ship, shoots its way through thousands of boats that guard the downtown waterfront. Themed around the swashbuckling pirate Jose Gaspar, who menaced Florida’s Gulf Coast in the 1800s, the invasion is followed by a bead-throwing pirate parade that attracts a crowd of nearly half a million. This is the city’s signature social event led by Ye Mystic Krewe, a merry band of elite movers and shakers who don war paint, fake jagged scars and festive costumes.
Transient slips are ransomed for gold at the downtown Tampa Marriott Waterside Hotel and Marina, Convention Center and Harbour Island docks, but if you know a resident along Harbour Island or Davis Islands that flank the channel to downtown, you may get lucky with an unused overnight slip. Now, here’s your tip. Located on the west side of Tampa’s peninsula is a hidden gem, West Shore Yacht Club, with space for vessels up to 80′. Dockmaster Ryan Smith says the weekend is popular and transients enjoy full use of the clubhouse and amenities. By boat you are less than 40 minutes away from joining the flotilla. Other marina venues close by include St. Petersburg Municipal, the nearby Vinoy Resort and marinas in and around Ruskin and Apollo Beach. Gasparilla is a weekend-long participatory sport. It’s best to bring beads for ransom and trade, plenty of that spicy brown concoction bearing the likeness of a certain pirate and ear plugs. gasparillapiratefest.com
Cabbage Key
A far less raucous destination this time of year is secluded and off the proverbial beaten path: Cabbage Key located just south of Charlotte Harbor. Every Jimmy Buffet fan knows that Jimmy sailed here, enjoyed a famous cheeseburger and maybe even signed a dollar like thousands of other mariners who continue the tradition of taping a beer buck to the ceiling. What you may have overlooked are the unpretentious docks with power for an overnight stay. The Inn and famous restaurant sit atop a 30-foot-tall Indian shell mound. Climb the water tower for an incomparable view of nearby Useppa Island Club to the east and Gulf of Mexico to the west. Dinner, the honky-tonk piano and stories well into the night, coupled with a lush, island-like display of tropical flora and fauna help you forget that the mainland and all those tourists covered in oil are just a few miles away. Not to be overlooked is pulling in for a simple breakfast of pancakes and eggs. Winter is an ideal time to visit. The air temperature is perfect and sunsets are as pink as steamed Gulf shrimp, but running the protected ICW is often necessary thanks to the weekly cold front that riles up the Gulf for a day or two. Docks that were rebuilt after a couple of hurricanes a decade ago are solid and well suited for yacht traffic. cabbagekey.com
By Alan Wendt, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
For more than a century, Gasparilla Island has lured anglers seeking to combat the mighty silver king.
If you’re looking for a cruising destination with exciting nightlife, a vibrant social scene, reservation-only restaurants, and high-end shops that stay open well after sunset, Gasparilla Island is not it.
It also doesn’t have fast-food restaurants or a large supermarket, a shopping mall with department stores, high-rise condos, stoplights, neon signs on storefronts, a gas station, or traffic—golf carts are the preferred mode of transportation. And from what I could tell when I first drove into the town of Boca Grande (Spanish for Big Mouth), it doesn’t appear to have much of a police force either, or at least one that uses radar guns.
I was still in turnpike-driving mode and evidently missed the slower speed limit sign when a uniformed officer on the side of the road extended his arm and executed the universally understood palm-down motion for “slow down,” then casually resumed his conversation with a bicyclist. Indeed, what Gasparilla Island doesn’t have is what’s drawn second-home buyers seeking the old-Florida charm that’s disappeared from touristy towns. But what it does have is what’s drawn anglers from around the world for more than 100 years: tarpon.
Laidback Living
Gasparilla is a seven-mile-long barrier island on the north side of the mouth of Charlotte Harbor on Florida’s Gulf Coast. The barrier island on the south side is Cayo Costa. The distance between the two islands—Boca Grande Pass—is less than a mile across, and with holes reaching depths of more than 70 feet, it’s the deepest pass in the state of Florida. Tarpon frequently gather in the holes and sometimes stack due to their numbers. Exactly why they collect in the pass is still unknown, and speculation is wide in theory and varied in nature.
Yet while many other tarpon fisheries throughout the U.S. are now all but barren, the stock in Boca Grande and Charlotte Harbor continue to proliferate, a phenomenon the surrounding communities seek to preserve through education and conservation.
The beachfront swimming pool overlooks the Gulf of Mexico.
Water hazards along perfectly manicured greens await golfers at the Pete Dye 18-hole course.
The Certified-Green Inn Marina offers a quiet setting and full service. Photo credit: John J Unrue
Old Florida’s island elegance greets guests upon arrival at The Gasparilla Inn
Paraphernalia outside Whiddon’s Marina hints at more “treasure” inside their Maritime Museum. Photo by Liz Pasch
The Silver Kings
The lure of “boating” a tarpon—hooking and reeling the fish to the boat to release—is understandably on many anglers’ bucket list of accomplishments. In fishing tournaments, catching a tarpon, snook, seatrout, and redfish in one day is classified as a “grand slam.” Tarpon is widely considered to be the most difficult. Winning top prize is highly sought after in the numerous tarpon tournaments, most of which are held in May and June.
Tarpon are also called silver king, sabalo, silverfish, or poons. An adult tarpon can live to 55 years and weigh up to 150 lbs., although the tarpon record with the International Game Fish Association (igfa.org) is an astounding 283 lbs. 4 ounces. There’s no doubt that the biggest draw of tarpon fishing is the explosive fight that ensues once they’re hooked. In an attempt to free or break the hook holding them hostage, they repeatedly leap into the air writhing with all their strength, then dive to the bottom before resurfacing to leap again.
Even for experienced anglers and owners of fishing boats, it’s vitally important to know how to boat and fish in the Boca Grande Pass. Fishing captains in this area know the pass’s landscape, its currents, each other’s boats, and each other. They use established boating and fishing methods, and newcomers must adhere in order to ensure a safe and productive fishing experience for all. Even if you own a well-equipped fishing boat, a better option is to hire one of the many local charter captains; your marina can provide a recommendation.
Come on Inn
Though tarpon fishing is certainly exhilarating, it can also be exhausting. For cruisers who prefer swimming pools to fishing “poons,” all things restful and charming can be found at The Gasparilla Inn & Club, a classic and historic resort known for its endearing hospitality.
The original small hotel was built in 1911 before it was expanded and renamed The Gasparilla Inn. Soon after its reopening in 1913, affluent guests from the Northeast arrived having learned of the legendary fishing. News of The Inn spread so quickly that by 1915, plans were made to double its size, with budgeting for servants quarters and elegant hotel furnishings brought in from Boston. The Inn continued to grow in popularity and accommodated clientele such as J.P. Morgan, Henry DuPont and other noteworthy guests. Prior to the construction of the Boca Grande causeway in 1958, guests arrived by train or boats.
Today, The Gasparilla Inn & Club offers much more than a clean room and soft bed after a day of fishing. Far beyond its humble beginnings, the resort now offers 163 guest accommodations including suites, cottages, villas, and even larger properties. The grand resort is known for its “civilized” charm, so pay attention to the dress code, especially in the evenings and for dinner during the social season. If all you need in the morning is coffee and the daily paper, it’s complimentary in The Living Room, as well as afternoon tea and sweet treats in season. For those with a heartier appetite, The Inn’s Dining Room offers full breakfast daily and full dinner menu. Just down the block, enjoy the talented chef’s specials at The Pink Elephant Restaurant.
Golfers can enjoy a Pete Dye-designed course at The Golf Club, with practice facilities, pro shop and lessons with PGA pros. The Tennis Club offers seven Har-Tru tennis courts, pro shop and lessons. Take in a yoga class or work out in the fitness area followed by a steam or spa treatment. Stroll on the private beach or sit poolside at the Beach Club, and while you’re there arrange for a golf cart to explore the island or a bicycle if you don’t carry one on your boat. The paved bicycle path was formerly an abandoned railroad bed, which one of The Inn’s former owners and his brother acquired in the early 1980s by trading it for waterfront property.
Explore More
First, stop by the Johann Fust Community Library, which is a pretty pink building on 10th Street that looks more like a home than a library. In addition to books, magazines, DVDs, music, and a children’s area, there’s a lovely garden in the back with an open-air reading area and beguiling shell collection. It’s much more than a library and serves as a cultural center offering a variety of authors, speakers, and musical events during the social season.
Explore the neighborhoods in the downtown area and the old-Florida architecture, and treat yourself to a latte and sweet at The Inn Bakery. There are a number of quaint shops downtown to explore—no chain stores here—most of which close at 5 PM. Then stop at Whiddon’s Marina & Maritime Museum on your way to the south end of the island to explore the state park and the lighthouse museum at Boca Grande Pass; the museum closes at 4 PM. After dinner, explore The Pelican Room at The Inn.
Don’t wait until the last minute to plan your visit to The Gasparilla Inn. Reservations for The Gasparilla Inn fill up quickly for the social season and special event weekends, and it closes for several months offseason for renovation and upkeep.
The Inn’s owners—including those currently who are involved in all décor selection—invest an extraordinary amount of attention on all properties. More than 325 seasonal employees continue the tradition of hospitality that began more than a century ago, traditions that have been passed on to generations of owners and guests. Whether you fish for tarpon, golf for birdies or just lie poolside, time spent on Gasparilla Island lets you be part of its history—and its enduring legacy.
The Corpus Christi Marina now has 600 slips, cruiser’s facilities, three yacht clubs, and a massive public boat ramp. The improvements to the marina district have inspired a Greater Downtown Area of culture, sports, convention and hospitality venues.
The premier boating destination on the Texas Gulf Coast, caps a successful summer of expansion with the dedication of 35 more slips for boats 30 to 45 feet in length—the seventh major addition in the past 16 years.
Infrastructure Improvements
Since 2000, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service has provided $1,764,050 in federal funds via Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration (WSFR) grants specifically targeted at an improved marina infrastructure, access for boaters and improved sanitary facilities to maintain clean water.
The grant monies, matched by the City of Corpus Christi and Texas Parks and Wildlife Department, have built modern septic pump-outs, restrooms and showers, a laundry, meeting rooms, a four-lane boat ramp, and more than 80 slips for boats greater than 26 feet in length at the Corpus Christi Marina.
“This marina is hugely important to both boaters and anglers on the Texas Gulf Coast, and exemplifies how the Wildlife and Sport Fish Restoration Program works in partnership with others to improve boating access and infrastructures,” says Cliff Schleusner, Chief of WSFR in the Southwest Region. “Boaters and anglers paid for it in excise tax, and now they and others reap the benefits.”
The new infrastructure replaces outdated and decayed materials and should better withstand the forces of future hurricanes. A part of the infrastructure upgrades includes Internet systems needed for navigation.
While the marina is the anchor on the Bayfront, civic leaders and business owners continue to expand what’s known as the Marina Arts District. The area features a vibrant nightlife, music scene, art galleries and outdoor art, along with many weekend festivals. marinaarts.com
South Padre Island and Port Isabel—where the fish and seafood are plenty and seasoning is most likely unnecessary
Perhaps the large territory comes to be associated with the arid deserts of the southwest, yet the Lone Star State also boasts a nearly 400-mile-long coastline on the Gulf of Mexico dotted with white sand beaches, littoral towns and a wealth of charming anchorages. Halfway down her coast, south of Corpus Christi and far from any interstate highways lies the mouth of the Laguna Madre, among the most remote and forgotten cruising grounds on the Gulf Coast.
Shielded by South Padre Island and stretching all the way south to Mexico, this narrow lagoon not only runs along the Gulf but is also a rarity: It is one of the saltiest bodies of water in the world, even saltier than our seas and oceans. With its shallow depth, few inlets to the Gulf of Mexico and lack of fresh water coming from the plains of South Texas, this unique ecosystem buffered on both sides by sand dunes has remained in a pristine state, her shores barely touched by developers. Cruisers who have discovered the Laguna Madre’s unique beauty lament South Padre Island’s reputation as a college spring break destination, yet the 34-mile-long island and the artsy town of Port Isabel at its furthest point south open their arms wide to cruisers throughout the year.
Everyone loves babies especially sea turtles released on South Padre Island.
Cruising families enjoy Schlitterbahn, one of the nation’s biggest and best amusement parks.
Sportfish boats line the docks at Padre Island marinas waiting for fishing season—and the weekend.
Hobie Cats prepare for the Great Texas 300.
Fine beach sand attracts world-class sandcastle-building competitions to Padre Island.
First discovered and mapped by Cabeza de Vaca and his Spanish conquistadors in 1528, South Padre Island was an encampment for an unusual tribe of Native Americans known as the Karankawas. They were said to wear rattlesnake rattles in their braided hair, cover themselves in alligator grease and were portrayed as skilled bow hunters. Myths about the tribe abound. The Spaniards believed them to be cannibals, yet their diet mainly consisted of seafood and oysters. They may also have been among the earliest people to fly fish. The Karankawas were eventually chased off South Padre Island by a group of European settlers who roped a cannon onto a donkey and trudged it across the sand dunes. While the loud cannon failed to frighten the tribe, Spanish missionaries reported that it was the “magical” donkey and its jumps from the cannon’s recoil that scared the native tribe forever into the depths of what would become Texas.
Today, billionaire Elon Musk’s SpaceX Corporation is building a new launch facility (for things other than donkeys) immediately south of Padre Island and Port Isabel. With the Tesla fortune seemingly pouring into the area, local government officials are already in the planning phases to upgrade coastal parks and other launch-viewing sites. Dockside restaurants such as Pier 19 in Port Isabel are perfectly located to provide unobstructed viewing areas for launches paired with delicious, locally caught seafood—do not miss out on the (rocket) Blackened Baja Tacos. This far south, expect a heavy Mexican influence on traditional Gulf cooking.
Plying the Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna Madre, locals—South Padre Island and Port Isabel count no more than 5,000 permanent residents—fish the waters for their prey offshore of the nearby and massive King Ranch. Expect bridge delays as horsemen lead massive herds of cattle to their next grazing lands. Charter boats head deep into the Gulf of Mexico to hunt for tuna, amberjack, kings, and other big-game fish, while inshore guides take you to hit the speckled trout and big reds along the coast.
In downtown Port Isabel the waterfront is the center of the action with the Tarpon, Port Isabel and Pelican Point marinas all within walking distance. Rustic seafood restaurants such as Will and Jacks Burger Shack & Beer Garden, Joe’s Oyster Bar and Dirty Al’s are filled with down-to-earth and artsy locals. Take time to chat with them as this quiet and low-key beach town is filled with stories and hospitality.
If your cruising itinerary includes an arrival here in October, the weather cools off and the town’s Day of the Dead festival on Halloween weekend explodes on Maxan Street; the township is in its full quirky splendor. Or, join the adventurers in June and arrive for the start of the Great Texas 300 when Hobie Cat sailors race the entire Laguna Madre up to Galveston in what is billed as the longest distance small-boat catamaran race in the world.
But the best reason to cruise south to the border is to experience the true untouched beauty of South Texas’ waters. The Laguna Madre is, indeed, a still-undiscovered boating natural wonder in America with her salty waters, near constant winds and predatory birds soaring from the plains. With sand-covered barrier islands protecting bays, fertile estuaries rumored to have sheltered the infamous pirate Jean Lafitte, and empty beaches stretching for miles along the Gulf of Mexico, the Texas coast should not be forgotten. These cruising and fishing grounds are just waiting for adventurous boaters and anglers to come and discover them. The fresh oysters and blackened redfish freshly landed are also waiting for your plate at the many restaurants and beachside eateries of this rustic island town. Then just dig your feet in the white sand, sip an adult beverage and watch the fiery sunset that customarily plays out across the deserts of Texas—but this time with surf rolling at your toes.
CRUISER RESOURCES
—Dockage—
Pelican Point Marina and RV Park
40 Tarpon Avenue • (956) 943-6464
Port Isabel City Dock
800 Pompano Street
(956) 943-2682
Tarpon RV Park & Marina
226 Basin Street • (956) 943-2040 tarponrvpark.com
—Eateries—
Dirty Al’s
201 S Garcia Street • (956) 943-3344 • dirtyalspi.com
Joe’s Oyster Bar
207 E Maxan Street • (956) 943-4501
Pier 19
1 Padre Boulevard • (956) 761-7437 • pier19.us
Will and Jacks Burger Shack & Beer Garden
413 E Maxan Street • (956) 640-7440
It’s never too early to start discussing summer camp options with the kids. Luckily, on the Gulf Coast a great camp option offers boating adventures to kids that make their parents green with envy. The Sea Scouts, a maritime version of the Boy Scouts, have a major facility on the Gulf Coast in Galveston, Texas. Known as Sea bases, these scouting programs are major hands-on educational boating programs for the next generations.
Originally conceived as a camp and high-adventure facility for the Sea Scouts, the Sea Base Galveston on Offatts Bayou has fresh programs and a new facility that was completed in early 2015 with an endowment reported to approach $100 million. The scope of the original project broadened to include a Community Youth Sailing Center and a maritime education facility for merchant mariner students and others. Financed almost entirely by a donation from a private donor who is very active in the Sea Scouting programs, the 60,000-square-foot facility includes lodging, offices, classrooms, and a cafeteria. The structure is adjacent to floating docks and piers and can host 200-300 scouts on a weekly basis.
Home to a fleet of Sonar and FJ sailboats and an 82′ Coast Guard cutter converted to a functioning on-the-water classroom, the Sea base also holds a variety of vessels ranging from kayaks to schooners with the goals of emphasizing sailing instruction, seamanship, navigation, and high adventure. The program draws more than 20,000 scouts a year from throughout the country.
Quite similar to the Sea Base in Galveston, a Sea Scouts’ facility in Islamorada in the Florida Keys also offers high adventure maritime camps with everything from snorkeling and scuba diving to sailing expeditions to exploring a deserted island owned by the organization—all in sunny South Florida.
With many different programs, the Out Island Adventure in the Keys is one of the most irresistible. Sea Scouts are taken to the rustic and undeveloped Big Munson Island for a week of snorkeling and kayaking on coral reefs, all while camping on the beaches. Described as a Survivor for kids but fully supervised, the program urges scouts to carry their own gear and provisions before being led on mini-expeditions to fish the reefs and forage on the island.
Both of the programs in Galveston and the Keys are designed to foster a sense of self-reliance on the water and build lasting memories for these future boaters in a safe and supervised environment. It’s one thing to hear adventure stories from your child as they return from tennis or space camp, but imagine their smiles and tales of courage from living on an island, sailing through a formidable squall line or reeling in dinner that was enjoyed by a campfire. Adventure and freedom is what draws boaters to the water, and the Sea Scouts are an incredible way to ignite or cultivate that passion in your children.
By Troy Gilbert, Southern Boating Magazine March 2016
Even with the advent of GPS, boaters familiar with their home waters still use landmarks to guide them to their homeports and those new to an area find them to be crucial. Throughout the Gulf Coast, the region is sprinkled with historic lighthouses many of which are still functioning, and some of these lights have guided sailors home to safety for more than two centuries and have the history to prove it. While there are far too many to mention here, the following list is a good start for your explorations.
Alabama
Mobile Bay—In the shallows of Mobile Bay, the Middle Bay Light has stood since 1885 and marks the dogleg in the primary shipping channel. Placed on the National Historic Registry in 1975, this lighthouse has withstood many a hurricane and still serves as a navigational tool.
Florida
Cape San Blas—Originally constructed in 1848, the Cape San Blas Lighthouse marked the elbow in the cape extruding into the Gulf of Mexico that forms St. Joseph’s Bay on the Florida Panhandle. In 2014, the lighthouse was decommissioned and moved to a bayside park in the town of Port St. Joe and now includes a museum.
Seahorse Key—On a pristine and undeveloped section of Florida’s west coast lies a chain of keys near the entrance to the Suwannee River. In 1854, the first lighthouse was built on the Cedar Keys, and today the lighthouse is home to the University of Florida’s Seahorse Key Marine Laboratory.
Pensacola—Located on Santa Rosa Island near Fort Barrancas, the Pensacola Lighthouse went operational in 1824 and is still visible when entering the Pensacola Lighthouse. Today, it houses a lighthouse museum and is located on the grounds of the Naval Air Station.
Louisiana
New Canal—Nearly destroyed during Hurricane Katrina in 2015, the New Canal Lighthouse was originally constructed in 1839 and guided barges and schooners from Lake Pontchartrain into one of the shipping canals leading to downtown New Orleans. The lighthouse was fully restored after the hurricane, is operational and home to the Lake Pontchartrain Basin Foundation.
Tchefuncte River Lighthouse—Erected in 1837 at the entrance of the large Tchefuncte River into Lake Pontchartrain, the lighthouse has been guiding boaters to the quaint resort town of Madisonville for their popular Wooden Boat Festival on the lake’s north shore.
Mississippi
Round Island—The lighthouse was constructed in 1833 to guide mariners into the port of Pascagoula from the Mississippi Sound. Hurricane Katrina destroyed it as it was undergoing restoration, and the salvaged remains were shipped by barge and relocated in Pascagoula from the barrier island. The lighthouse was relighted in 2015.
By Troy Gilbert – Southern Boating Magazine, February 2016
Deep in the heart of winter on the Gulf Coast, boaters already begin to plan their upcoming on-the-water adventures. New destinations are plotted on charts; that wooden boat festival that was missed last year due to work is scribbled onto the calendar, and family friendly boating events are searched out on the Internet. Here’s one boaters must included on their cruising calendars: an air show from the U.S. Navy’s Blue Angels.
The legendary, precision flying squadron’s home is smack in the middle of the Florida panhandle at the U.S. Naval Air Station in Pensacola. The Blue Angels have been thrilling hordes of people for more than 50 years with their razor-thin precision and spectacular aerial stunts. Throughout the year an estimated 11 million people view the incredible aerial dynamics of these pilots as they fly in close formation and perform amazing feats of sky gymnastics in their F/A-18 fighter jets, which can reach speeds of 1,400 mph!
Eleven million people can be quite a crowd, but luckily, many of the air shows that the Blue Angels visit are accessible to boaters in many parts of the country. What better way to entertain than to run your boat just off shore on the Gulf of Mexico, a bay or lake and drop anchor for the best seats in town. Raft up with your boat-owning friends and make it an annual event. Pack a lunch or fire up that stern grill, marvel at the aeronautics and feel the power of the Blue Angels as these extreme aircrafts spring through the air. Many of the venues, especially in beach towns such as Pensacola and Key West, have the fighter jets screaming just along the shorelines and possibly directly over your vessel. It’s quite the memorable experience. Air shows held throughout the country in 2016 can be found on their website blueangels.navy.mil. Search for the event nearest you and discover whether the pilots will be flying directly over or within viewing distance of your favorite waterway. The energy and thrill of watching these fighter pilots from the comfort of your own boat is truly a one-of-a-kind experience and should absolutely be scheduled into your boating plans for this New Year.
Now go back to dreaming of warmer weather and untying those dock lines—spring is right around the corner.
By Troy Gilbert, Southern Boating Magazine January 2016
Naples, Florida offers a bit of the old and new to visiting cruisers.
Naples, Florida, is and always has been about the water. Surrounded by the Gordon River, Naples Bay, Gordon Pass, and the Gulf of Mexico, Naples began as—and remains—a maritime haven.
Centuries before Columbus, the area we know as Naples, Florida was inhabited by the Calusa Indians. They were the earliest to harvest fish and clams from the surrounding waters. They were were canal excavators long before Spain staked claim in 1513 to what is now Florida. By the early 1700s, Seminoles became the dominant native tribe on the waterfront until the mid-1850s when they were driven inland by the U.S. Army.
After the Civil War, small numbers of farmers and squatters made their way to Southwest Florida by wagon, ox cart, and even sailboats. Naples evolved into a boating community with abundant fish and game. The bay’s beauty was thought to surpass that of the bay in Naples, Italy, hence its name. By the time the town was officially founded in 1886, Naples had already attracted investors and gained popularity as a winter resort for wealthy Northerners.
Storied Past
Gordon Pass, then and now.
Gordon Pass then and now.
In the 1920s, Baron Collier (Naples is in Collier County, named for him) brought paved roads, electric power, telegraph service, and thriving business to the area. Silver screen legends Greta Garbo, Hedy Lamarr and Gary Cooper were frequent visitors, as were business moguls like Firestone and Edison.
Their frequent visits started a trend that established Naples’ reputation as a favorite spot for the rich and famous. Today, that rich and famous trend continues. According to the Naples Daily News, five Naples residents are on the 2017 Forbes list of billionaires. Celebrities like Bob Seger, Mike Ditka, Janet Evanovich, and Judge Judy own homes in the exclusive city.
Let’s rewind to the mid-1950s. Economic activity was centered around the tin-roofed buildings on the Gordon River, the home of Naples’ fishing industry, clam shelling and oyster processing along with boat construction and repair. As the fishing industry waned, this “tin city” was repurposed in the 1970s as The Old Marine Marketplace. It featured shops and restaurants. Current-day Tin City retains Old Florida charm with unique shops, rental boats, and water-based tours like the Double Sunshine and the Naples Princess.
Everything Old is Old Again
In a testament to Naples’ desire to keep the old Florida feel, Kelly’s Fish House, in business since 1953, still serves up seafood like Florida red grouper and Apalachicola oysters just across the river from Tin City. The Naples City Council has turned down developer requests to raze Kelly’s and make way for a large underground parking garage topped with shops, modern restaurants, and condos, maintaining this historic treasure and local favorite—for now.
Naples City Dock now.
Naples City Dock in 1940.
Moving downstream, the Gordon River widens into Naples Bay, once a deserted, mangrove encircled backwater. Here, Crayton Cove got its start in 1915 when Annie Rivers and her son, Chiz, settled in what was then called “The Back Bay.” The town’s first sheltered moorage for fishermen and bootleggers was found at The Back Bay Docks managed by local legend Brembury Storter. In 1935, the area was renamed Crayton Cove after another local owner and served as the town’s social center where the White Pelican hosted all the important, high-brow events, such as the Swamp Buggy Ball.
Present day Naples Bay bears little resemblance to days of yore. Mangrove shores have been supplanted by several marinas, hotels, retail, and office spaces, restaurants and residences. Naples City Dock reopened early this year after a nearly year-long closure and seven-million-dollar investment, including replacing the old fixed wooden docks with Bellingham floating docks. City Dock still lures fishermen (sans bootleggers) with Naples’ largest charter fishing fleet and day charter sailboats. City mooring balls, at $15 per night, are, undoubtedly, the cheapest place to stay in the Naples area.
The Dock at Crayton Cove restaurant is adjacent to City Dock and has waterside dining in view of the charter fleet. The Dock has had a 30-year run here with seafood as the centerpiece of the menu. Try the crab salad BLT, Spanish octopus skillet or banana macadamia nut snapper. Just down the block is Bleu Provence, in business for 20 years. This Zagat-rated establishment features Florida pompano with black olive vierge sauce and cobia with coconut and cilantro red pepper sauce. Many additional fine restaurants are just a stroll away on ritzy Fifth Avenue, and oh, the shopping!
Glitz and Glam
Moving south, Naples Bay’s shores, once sparsely dotted with fishing shanties, are now lined with elegant homes and honeycombed with navigable canals. Canal-side homes feature private docks to accommodate everything from picnic boats (Hinckley seems to be a common denominator) to large yachts; bayside homes tend to favor boat hoists due to the wakes from passing boat traffic. As the bay narrows again to re-form the river and makes a hard turn west, mariners pass the Port Royal area, an exclusive enclave with yachts docked at estates that make Los Angeles’ media mogul mansions look like starter homes. Fortunately, the area is still accessible to middle-class mariners, who cruise the canals in their vessels and anchor in bays along the way. A favorite of mine is Champney Bay, accessed by turning north between red channel markers #10 and #12 just inside the Gordon Pass’ entrance.
Port Royal, then and now.
Port Royal, then and now. .
Moving to the Gulf side of Naples, Naples Beach (open to the public) has been a favorite of locals and tourists alike for more than a century—only the size of the swimwear has changed. The centerpiece of the beach is the 600-foot-long Naples Pier. It was constructed in 1888 as a freight and passenger dock for the Naples Hotel. The Pier has been through a lot, largely destroyed by a fire in 1922 and ravaged by hurricanes in 1910, 1926 and 1960. Although it was rebuilt shortly before Hurricane Irma, it was damaged again during the storm. The pier is now undergoing yet another round of repairs. Fishing is not currently allowed, but frustrated fishermen can drown their sorrows at the pier concession, Cosmos Café, and Pizzeria; the City Council recently approved serving beer and wine at this establishment.
Naples Pier, then and now.
Historic Charms
Take a leisurely walk today along Naples Pier. It’s easy to imagine the ladies in summer hats and men in fedoras strolling along the original pier. But nothing lasts forever, and now is the time to discover both the old and new of Florida’s “last frontier,” on the water in Naples, Florida.
