Eight Days Under Eight Knots on the Rideau Canal
Cruising Canada’s UNESCO World Heritage waterway aboard a Le Boat Horizon.
By Michele Allen
Some of the best adventures begin with a simple decision: to go somewhere you have never been.
After more than three decades of chartering boats around the world, my husband, Skip, and I have learned that familiarity can be comforting, but the unknown is often far more rewarding. We have cruised with Le Boat throughout France and Italy, sharing unforgettable trips with family and friends. This trip was different. For the first time, it would be just the two of us aboard a charter boat, setting off through a place we knew almost nothing about: Canada’s historic Rideau Canal.
Why Cruise the Rideau Canal?
That uncertainty made the adventure appealing. Stretching 125 miles through the heart of Ontario, the Rideau Canal connects Canada’s capital, Ottawa, with Kingston on Lake Ontario. Completed in 1832, it is North America’s oldest continuously operated canal system, and UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site in 2007.
The British military built the canal after the War of 1812 as a secure inland supply route that avoided the vulnerable St. Lawrence River. Ironically, the Rideau never saw military action. Instead, it evolved into one of the world’s most extraordinary recreational waterways.
Nearly 200 years later, the canal remains much as it was when it opened. Its 47 locks, spread across 24 lock stations, still operate largely by hand using original 19th-century mechanisms. From Ottawa, boats rise 272 feet before descending 164 feet toward Kingston through a network of rivers, lakes, dams, and canals.
Our vessel was a Le Boat Horizon 3, a comfortable 44-foot cruiser with three staterooms, three heads, and everything needed for extended life aboard. With its wide beam, low profile, single diesel, and bow and stern thrusters, the boat proved remarkably easy to handle. Our adventure began at the Le Boat base in Smiths Falls, Ontario.
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Settling Into Canal Life
After a warm welcome from Le Boat manager Veronica, plus a boat orientation and training, we cast off around 2 p.m. The first afternoon offered exactly what every boater hopes for on day one: enough challenge to be exciting and enough tranquility to relax. Two locks and a leisurely two-hour cruise later, we tied up along the seawall at Beveridges Lock for our first night aboard.
Along the Rideau, mooring overnight against the lock-station seawalls is standard. Beveridges Lock made an idyllic introduction to canal life: quiet water, lush surroundings, and the realization that for the next week, our only responsibility was deciding where to cruise next.
Discovering Small-Town Ontario
The next day brought us to Perth, which we reached by taxi because Le Boat vessels cannot transit the small Tay Canal. Perth turned out to be one of those delightful travel discoveries: charming streets, a beautiful park, and perhaps the most extraordinary antique store we have ever encountered. Lunch in the secluded courtyard of Rocky River Café only added to its appeal before we returned to the boat and continued to Portland for the evening.
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By day three, we had settled into the gentle rhythm of canal cruising. A leisurely morning brought us to Westport after a scenic two-and-a-half-hour run through one lock and a manual swing bridge opened by the friendly Parks Canada lock staff. Boutiques, bakeries, cafés, and even a winery line Westport’s streets. After replenishing provisions, we enjoyed dinner at The Cove Country Inn and the slower pace that seemed to define the Rideau.
Through Lakes and Locks to Jones Falls
The run to Chaffey’s Lock on day four showcased some of the canal’s most spectacular scenery. For three hours, we cruised through interconnected lakes linked by narrow channels, each turn revealing another postcard view.
The Rideau’s lockmasters quickly became one of the highlights. At Newboro Lock, the lockmaster greeted us with enthusiasm, sharing history and local tips. Later, at Chaffey’s Lock, lockmaster Jeff guided us to a perfect overnight berth just below the lock gates.
Set on a narrow isthmus between two lakes, Chaffey’s Lock may be the most beautiful lock station on the canal. We explored the manicured grounds, then walked to the historic Opinicon Resort. Built as a private residence in 1870 and opened as The Opinicon Club in 1921, it remains a beloved stop for its restaurant, pub, and famous ice cream shop.
By day five, anticipation had peaked. We faced five locks, and strong winds added an extra challenge, but every mile rewarded us. The approach to Davis Lock looked almost too picturesque to be real, more landscaped park than working infrastructure.
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Then we reached Jones Falls. Widely regarded as the crown jewel of the Rideau Canal, the Jones Falls flight consists of four consecutive lock chambers that descend an astonishing 59 feet. As we approached lock No. 39, we again felt the camaraderie among Rideau lockmasters: the Davis Lock lockmaster had called ahead, and the Jones Falls crew stood ready for our arrival.
Descending through each of the four locks, we experienced firsthand the brilliance of Lt. Col. John By’s engineering vision, an extraordinary achievement for its time. That evening, we docked at the Hotel Kenney just beyond the lock, well positioned for the next morning’s return. Before sunset, we walked the trail around the towering 60-foot stone dam, marveling at what builders accomplished nearly 200 years ago.
Why the Lockmasters Matter
One of the Rideau Canal’s greatest assets is its people. Parks Canada lockmasters staff every lock station, and they serve as historians, guides, weather forecasters, and local ambassadors as well as lock operators. Their knowledge and hospitality turned our cruise from a vacation into an education.
The Journey Home
Day six began our return. Positioning early at the first Jones Falls chamber let us ascend the four-lock flight efficiently, and the three-hour cruise back to Newboro proved surprisingly relaxing. Newboro delivered another surprise in Kilborn’s, a department store that seems to sell everything imaginable under one roof: jewelry, clothing, cookware, furniture.
One of the Rideau’s greatest pleasures is its accessibility. Nearly every community we visited sat within easy walking distance of the docks. Le Boat offers bicycle rentals for exploring farther, but we found immense satisfaction simply wandering each town on foot.
The Magic of Colonel By Island
Our final full day brought us to a stop fellow cruisers had insisted we see: Colonel By Island, named for British military engineer Lt. Col. John By, who supervised the canal’s construction and founded Bytown, the settlement that grew into Ottawa.
The island’s history matches its scenery. Once the private retreat of Daniel Arnstein, co-owner of New York City’s Yellow Cab Company, it hosted numerous Hollywood celebrities before becoming part of Parks Canada in 1979. We spent the afternoon walking its wooded trails and meeting fellow boaters from across Canada and even Switzerland, enjoying the luxury of doing very little while appreciating a great deal.
As evening approached, we cruised one last time to Portland, where dinner at The Galley Restaurant made a fitting farewell.
The final morning’s three-hour run back to Smiths Falls passed in near silence. We simply absorbed the scenery one last time: quiet coves, stone lock stations, and long stretches of water framed by lush landscape. In a world obsessed with speed and efficiency, the Rideau Canal offers an invitation to slow down. We arrived expecting a boating vacation and discovered a journey through history, engineering, and nature at the pace of the water. As we tied up for the last time, we both hoped the Rideau would be the beginning of a lasting relationship with one of North America’s great hidden treasures.
Captain's Log
- Charter company: Le Boat
- Vessel: Horizon 3
- Cruise length: 7 nights
- Departure point: Smiths Falls, Ontario
- Experience level: Beginner to intermediate
- Best feature: Historic hand-operated lock system
- Must-see destination: Jones Falls locks
- Don’t miss: Colonel By Island and Chaffey’s Lock
- Note: Le Boat does not require a boat license or prior boating experience to rent its houseboats.
What to Bring on a Rideau Canal Boat Trip
- Handheld VHF radio
- Communication headsets
- Bug repellent
- Gloves for the locks
- Binoculars
- Flashlight
- Sunscreen and hats
- Rain jacket
Le Boat charters operate in France, England, Germany, Italy, Scotland, the Netherlands, Canada, Ireland, and Belgium. Contact: 1-866-317-6427, leboat.com.
