One of the best things about traveling in The Bahamas (and there are many), is the sheer number of islands. The archipelago contains over 700 islands, all unique, beautiful, and cruise-able in their own right. But it’s the Abacos, a 120-mile sprawling island chain that stands out as a cruiser’s paradise.
Getting to the Abacos is a relatively quick trip by boat. It’s even quicker if you fly and charter or rent. Either way, the Abacos are best enjoyed over several days with family and friends.
Our Abacos Itinerary:
Man-O-War Cay
Day 1: Man-O-War Cay
Man-O-War is famous for its boat building history and Albury Brother’s Boats still produces some boats there today. The island is very laid-back, even by Bahamian standards, with a population of about 350 locals. There is also a public dock and a few small shops new Man-O-War Marina.
Day 2: Great Guana Cay
Nippers and her sister Grabbers will provide you with ample entertainment and spirits.
Arguably one of the prettiest anchorage spots in the Abacos, Great Guana Cay boasts picturesque beaches and great fishing. The small island has some big-name restaurants— hotspots Nippers and Grabbers will provide some of the most fun you’ll have on your trip.
Day 3: Green Turtle Cay
Historic Green Turtle Cay is famous for its shops, restaurants, and scenic sites. The quaint town, New Plymouth, was a former haven for Brits fleeing the US after the Revolutionary War. The New England–influenced architecture lining the streets shows off the historic roots.
Day 4: Treasure Cay
Developed in the ‘50s as a resort town, Treasure Cay has one of the most beautiful beaches in all the Bahamas. Photos do it no justice. For resort-style amenities, stay at the Treasure Cay Marina.
Day 5: Hope Town
Hope Town is best known for its iconic lighthouse on Elbow Cay. It began as another refuge after the Revolutionary War. Hope Town was settled by Wyannie Malone, a widow from South Carolina who traveled with her four children for safe refuge after the American Revolution. Explore the town’s gift shops, restaurants, and historic homes.
Day 6: Tahiti Beach
The picturesque Tahiti beach is also located on Elbow Cay. The beach is only accessible by foot, bike or boat. You’ll find a stretch of secluded beach and a seemingly endless sandbar will help pass the day. Search for seashells or try your hand snorkeling.
Day 7: Little Harbour
In 1951, Randolph Johnson, his wife Margot and their three sons settled on the white sandy beaches. Eventually, the family began the first bronze foundry in the country. Many Johnsons and their relatives are still in the area. Treat yourself to a romp at Pete’s Pub, a cruiser favorite.
Fun fact: Pete’s Pub was founded by Randolph’s son Peter.
What did we miss in the Abacos? Where do you cruise? Let us know in the comments.
Long-time resident of Governor’s Harbour Katie Black Frost is the author of Eleuthera, a beautiful work about the island with photographs from Marc Coeffic and Harry Paungger.
Eleuthera has a long, fascinating history starting with the arrival of the Eleutheran Adventurers—a group of English Puritans and religious Independents—in the mid-17th century. The island is known for its livestock and agriculture—eat an Eleutheran pineapple in season, and you will not want to leave. With more than 200 miles of coast and miles of pink sand beaches, Eleuthera is a gift to fishermen and tourists. On her website, Frost invites readers to “Come immerse yourself in Eleuthera… lose yourself in her magic.” The book is available online at eleutherabook.com, at the Haynes Library or at Tippy’s/Pineapple Fields’ gift shop in Governor’s Harbour. Read the book and feel the magic of this island for yourself.
Birds of a feather What better way for a birder to get around than by boat? Birding can be a family activity or a full-on academic profession, and The Bahamas is one of the world’s great places to see birds.
The repopulation of the flamingos in Great Inagua is hailed as a conservation success story. Other birds like the Bahamas parrot have also been saved, and the effort continues. Birding is constantly growing in popularity throughout The Bahamas, and the National Audubon Society has recently trained 80 Bahamian bird guides.
The Bahamian government has designated The Jolters north of Andros as a protected area. Hundreds of migratory piping plovers are now seen there every winter. The Jolters has an anchorage that can be reached with a 4′ draft on the high tide. You can also anchor outside Morgan’s Bluff and run out in your tender.
Birding tours are available throughout the islands and most have websites. Carolyn Wardle (bahamasoutdoors.com, 242-362-1574 or 457-0329) leads the Bahamas National Trust Bird Club, and her organization Bahamas Outdoors has run birding and nature tours for many years. Contact Wardle, who has worked throughout the islands and has innumerable contacts, for more information.
Yet you don’t have to wait for a guide to get started. Just grab your binoculars, camera, bird book, and go for a walk or get in your dinghy to cruise the mangroves. A recent newcomer, Linda Cooper, in West End, Grand Bahama, identified more than 130 species in her first year alone.
Rum Cay, Crooked Island, Acklins Electricity and communications have been reestablished in these islands that were devastated by Hurricane Joaquin, though rebuilding will continue for many months. The citizens of Rum Cay have scheduled their annual homecoming for February 26th—try and make it down there for the event to provide moral support and help the hurting local economy. To find out more information and how to help call Bobby Little at (242) 525-0184. Homecomings are great occasions for relatives and friends to reunite and an opportunity to welcome new friends.
Reach down to the anchorage north of Landrail Point from Rum Cay and if you need help with anything, go ashore and ask for Willie Gibson or Michael Carroll. Cruise east from Landrail to Lovely Bay, which has an anchorage inside the reef or go on to Atwood Harbour. This is a natural cruise track for boats headed for the Turks and Caicos, but it is easy enough to cruise to Crooked-Acklins and return downwind to Clarence Town, Long Island. The citizens of all these islands love visitors, and anything you can do to return the hospitality they have extended throughout the years will be much appreciated.
Little Harbour, Abaco Little Harbour is a harbor with exceptional charm. The Johnston family, winter residents and yachtsmen provide alluring art, good fellowship and the must-go-to Pete’s Pub Beach Bar. Those entertaining a visit would do well to read Randolph Johnson’s autobiographical Artist on his Island: a Study in Self Reliance and check out petespub.com for general information.
There is now controversy over a proposed new marina in the harbor that could use up some of the limited mooring space, put added pressure on the environment and change the ambience. It’s the age-old tension between developers, environmentalists and those who want to protect a way of life. Friends of the Environment is monitoring the process and will surely act if there is a serious threat of long term environmental impact, but change may well come to Little Harbour, so the time to visit is now.
Old Bahamas photos
“Tee Time” courtesy of Bahamas Country Club Golf Tournament. Photo: oldbahamas.com
If Bahamian history piques your interest go to oldbahamas.com, where there’s a large archive of historical Bahamian photographs. The images range from the sponge fishery to colonial architecture and the development of Grand Bahama in the 1950s. The website is instructive and a lot of fun.
Navigation notes: Northwest Light has finally been replaced. This is an important aid to navigation for those cruising from Cat Cay and Bimini to Chub Cay and Nassau. The light, however, has been reported out, so don’t depend on the marker at night—find it with your radar.
by Stephen Connett – Southern Boating Magazine, February 2016
While the majority of yachtsmen enter The Bahamas through Bimini, Cat Cay or simply clear in at West End and cruise on to the Abacos, Grand Bahama Island is a great place to spend a few days or a whole season—or even to own a second home.
Cruising to Grand Bahama and then on to Moore’s Island and Sandy Point is a wonderful way to enter The Bahamas if you plan to visit north Eleuthera or Nassau-—or cruise from Sandy Point around Hole in the Wall to Schooner Bay, Cherokee and Little Harbour. Coming from Florida, clear Customs at Old Bahama Bay (West End) and stay a while to explore the area. On Sandy Cay, Keith and Linda Cooper now have eco tours for diving, fishing and birding. weefca.com
If you need work done on your boat, Bradford Marine in Freeport is an excellent, full-service yard and a safe place to leave your boat if you fly home for a while.
In Lucaya, stay at Port Lucaya Marina or the Grand Bahama Yacht Club, where you’ll want to buy fuel as prices are usually the lowest in The Bahamas. portlucayamarina.com; grandbahamayachtclub.com
The Port Lucaya Marketplace has shopping, entertainment and several restaurants. Go to Zorba’s for Bahamian breakfast or lunch, Cappuccino’s for excellent Italian dinners, and Flying Fish for haute cuisine. UNEXSO runs a famous dive operation near the marina and the Dolphin Experience further down the waterway. unexso.com
Grand Bahama’s three national parks—The Rand Nature Center, the Lucayan National Park, and Peterson Cay—are well worth a visit. Go to the Bahamas National Trust website for more information. bnt.bs
Moore’s Island
Moore’s Island (Mores Island for the locals) does not cater to tourists but is a useful anchorage on your way along the southern edge of the bank or a good stop going north or south across the Bight of Abaco. There is decent holding in grass off Hard Bargain; go into the northern creek if there is a cold front but be sure to check the entrance and the creek by dinghy before venturing in. Two important things you must do when on Moore’s Island: visit Mrs. Jones for some fresh baked bread, and take your boat or your dinghy out to Lily Cay, where the shelling and snorkeling are outstanding—there is always a good chance of spearing a hogfish.
Abaco Park Warden Marcus Davis helps with Sea Turtle Research.
Sandy Point
Sandy Point is one of my favorite anchorages. It’s also a fun place to visit by road from further north in Abaco. Whether you come by land or sea, enjoy a couple of sundowners and a delicious supper at Nancy’s Sea Side Inn (242-366-4120) or the Sunset Bar and Grill (242-699-0249) while watching the sunset light up the sky.
The anchorage is only protected from the east, but if a cold front approaches go up the creek north of the settlement if you draw 5′ or less. Anchor bow or stern, or tie up to the government dock among the fishing boats. The local people will help you find your way into the unmarked creek and help you moor your boat.
Diesel, gas, and free water are available at Lightbourne Marina, where there is a good grocery store. It’s also a great spot to fish and snorkel for conch. While in southern Abaco visit the Abaco National Park, home of the Bahama parrot. Call Marcus Davis, Park Warden for information and a tour; (242) 367-6310.
Back in business
Staniel Cay Airport re-opened to air traffic in mid-November after months of closure for refurbishment that led to a newly paved runway 3,000-foot long and 75-foot wide. Safety concerns prompted the Department of Civil Aviation and the Ministry of Works to close the airport in April 2015.
Navigation notes:
The Grand Lucayan Waterway is still in very good condition. The Sir Charles Hayward Yacht Club (242-727-7245), just inside the southern entrance, has been refurbished and now has a growing youth program and a few slips for visiting yachts. Going all the way through the waterway is lovely, and you can look for property to purchase as you go. The lowest bridge has a 27.3-foot clearance. If you have a draft of 5′ or less, go out through the well-marked Dover Sound channel on the tide—the high tide is about 2 hours later than on the south shore. Proceed up to Mangrove Cay, Great Sale Cay and on to the Abacos. If you are towing a speedboat it is possible to explore Hawksbill Creek and Water Cay. The bonefishing on the north side is as good as anywhere in The Bahamas. The east end of Grand Bahama is seldom visited, and there are no detailed charts of the area. But a shallow draft vessel can get into Deep Water Cay (deepwatercay.com) and go gunkholing in the cays to the southeast with a little help from the local fishermen. The snorkeling and fishing are spectacular.
Words and photos by Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine January 2016
Just 135 miles off the coast of Florida, due east of Grand Bahama Island is unsung, oft overlooked Abaco—the northern tip of The Bahamas. The 780-square-mile cruising ground boasts long stretches of unspoiled beach, clear turquoise water, quaint villages, good provisioning, professional marine services, friendly locals, great snorkeling, a wide range of eateries, and predictable 5- to 20-knot trade winds. Little Abaco and Great Abaco Islands—from Crown Haven to Hole in the Wall—form a 120-mile arc that acts as the “mainland” for an outer archipelago of small reef-protected “cays” that dot the Sea of Abaco.
Abaco seems to exist in a time warp. Despite its proximity to the United States, none of the hustle and bustle of the more populated Bahamian Islands has crept northward. That is not an accident. Most Abaconians are aggressively anti-development and determined to preserve this unique and special place. Each of the Abaco islands still has its own distinct persona—many families, descendants of the Loyalists who fled the United States during and after the American Revolution, have called these islands home for well over 200 years. Some of the villages are quaint and charmingly gentrified, others a little less prosperous, but all are well tended with at least one water-view, aboveground cemetery. The surnames on those headstones are the same names on today’s shops, ferries, boatyards, and services.
The jumping-off point for a loop cruise of the Abaco archipelago is centrally located in Marsh Harbour, the third-largest city in The Bahamas. Its protected, deep water has made it the main supply depot for the islands and the home for most of the ferries, yacht charter companies, and a tiny but international airport. The Conch Inn Marina, with pool and restaurant, hosts the Moorings/Sunsail base. Within walking distance, a new Maxwell Supermarket has significantly raised the provisioning bar.
Lubbers’ Landing, a colorful Caribbean-style spot.
The hand-painted directional sign at Cracker P’s.
A colorful sign for “Yellow Bird.” Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
Freshly caught Bahamian lobster.
On Da Beach sits on a dune over looking Elbow Cay beach. Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
Enjoy some grub at Cap’n Jack’s. Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
Tahiti Beach is your own deserted island to enjoy a sunny lunch. Photo: John Lambert
Lubbers Quarters
An easy sail from Marsh Harbour, Lubbers Quarters Cay is a small seven-acre island that is home to funky Cracker P’s beach shack. At the head of a 200-foot dock lined with philosophical “Burma Shave”-style signs, Cracker P’s offers lots to do—from a closet full of board games to the equipment for volleyball, bocce, croquet, horseshoes, badminton, ping-pong, dominoes, and darts. Climb the steps up and over the 40-foot sand dunes to a large sweep of pristine beach, or hike the lush estate amid sapodilla (planted by the original Cracker P), mahogany, tamarind, and mangroves as well as wild orchids, bromeliads and hibiscus.
Little Harbour
The southernmost stop on an Abaco cruise, Little Harbour’s entrance—marked by pairs of red and green “found object” markers—opens into a harbor that’s protected nearly 360 degrees. Famous Pete’s Pub, Gallery and Foundry sits at the head of the harbor and rents moorings, serves casual fare in an open-air palapa, and presides over an atelier. Descendants of sculptor Randolph Johnston continue to cast bronze sculptures using a 5,000-year-old lost-wax process. Visit the Johnston Family Gallery and ask about a tour of the foundry. After a swim off the beach on the harbor’s eastern side, or off the mile-and-a-half stretch of white sand on the ocean side, join the regulars at the bar fashioned from pieces of Langosta, the old sailing vessel that carried the Johnston family to Little Harbour in the early 1950s.
Elbow Cay (Hope Town)
Founded in 1785 by Loyalists, Hope Town’s 120-foot red and white candy-cane lighthouse, protected harbor and picturesque ambience make it the poster child for the Abaco archipelago. Three marinas offer transient dockage on the harbor’s west side. The transplanted New England village is a dinghy ride across the harbor and vaunts lovingly restored, brightly colored structures—house shops, private homes, galleries, and bed-and-breakfasts drip with Bougainvillea and are edged with white picket fences. The narrow sidewalk-like streets are designed for walkers and golf carts, and public entrances lead to a sweep of gorgeous, pink-powder ocean beach protected by a live coral reef just 30 feet offshore. The compelling Wyannie Malone Historical Museum is worth a stop. Its exhibits reveal the history of the village and larger archipelago. Among them are artifacts collected by infamous shipwreckers. Hope Town owes some of its early affluence to a group who enticed boats with false signal lights that led them to founder on the reef; they would then salvage the cargo. The island of Elbow Cay is a quarter-mile wide at its beamiest point and six miles from stem to stern.
Man-O-War Cay
One of the strongholds of Abaco tradition, most of the Man-O-War families are part of the original immigration. They became boat builders and shipwrights, and today Albury Brothers’ “Deep-V” runabouts have a passionate following that extends far beyond The Bahamas. There are several options for parts, boat supplies and repairs: Man-O-War Marina has slips and moorings; Edwin’s Boat Yard offers two full-service facilities boasting an extensive marine parts inventory; Man-O-War Hardware is a gold mine for cruisers. The village has two roads that parallel the harbor so it’s easy to make a long loop and see everything in an hour or so including three eateries and The Sail Shop’s hand-made duffel bags, hats and jackets. Two well-supplied groceries offer everything but alcohol: Man-O-War Cay is a “dry” island.
Great Guana Cay
Famed Nipper’s Beach Bar & Grill put Great Guana Cay on the map. Right on the ocean dunes, it sports picnic tables, chairs and multi-level decks painted every color of the rainbow along with a shallow two-level pool designed mostly for the pool bar. The weekly pig roast is a big attraction accompanied by a powerful orange concoction. Despite Great Guana’s five-mile-wide, untouched ocean beach, the settlement is still delightfully small—a good part of the island wants it to stay that way. Pick up a mooring in Fishers Bay and dinghy ashore, or head over to upscale Orchid Bay Marina and Resort for a pampered experience.
Treasure Cay
One of the few big yacht options in Abaco, the 150-slip Treasure Cay Marina and Hotel houses a pool, 18-hole golf course, restaurants, 100-room hotel, rental villas and condos, and tennis courts. Its gorgeous three-mile arc of powder-sand beach dazzles and is well worth a visit. A popular bar is dockside and a low-key, upmarket restaurant overlooks the pool and harbor. Abaco Ceramics’ studio sells its coveted wares in shops all over The Bahamas.
Green Turtle Cay
The northernmost destination for Abaco-centric cruises is Green Turtle Cay, which requires a short outside passage around Whale Cay. When the ocean is raging, this passage is not recommended; the Cruiser’s Net (Channel 68, at 08:15AM) gives up-to-date weather reports. Green Turtle is home to three harbors: Settlement (small boats only), White Sound and Black Sound. The latter is the closest viable anchorage to the historic village of New Plymouth. A good way to see the whole cay is to join the locals and rent a golf cart. The history of Green Turtle is chronicled in the Albert Lowe Museum and the adjacent Memorial Sculpture Garden. White Sound features the quietly elegant Green Turtle Club and Marina with a pool high above the harbor, cottage accommodations and an old Bahamian-style fine-dining restaurant that serves three meals a day. Across the harbor, Bluff House Yacht Club and Marina’s Ipe (Brazilian teak) docks are filled with big sport-fish boats whose owners enjoy the facility’s two pools, two restaurants and first-class amenities. Cruising the Abacos is viable at most any time of year with the unique culture, gin-clear water and spectacular beaches. But the best weather seems to be March through May; it’s about the same temperature as the Palm Beach area of Florida.
