One of the best things about traveling in The Bahamas (and there are many), is the sheer number of islands. The archipelago contains over 700 islands, all unique, beautiful, and cruise-able in their own right. But it’s the Abacos, a 120-mile sprawling island chain that stands out as a cruiser’s paradise.
Getting to the Abacos is a relatively quick trip by boat. It’s even quicker if you fly and charter or rent. Either way, the Abacos are best enjoyed over several days with family and friends.
Our Abacos Itinerary:
Man-O-War Cay
Day 1: Man-O-War Cay
Man-O-War is famous for its boat building history and Albury Brother’s Boats still produces some boats there today. The island is very laid-back, even by Bahamian standards, with a population of about 350 locals. There is also a public dock and a few small shops new Man-O-War Marina.
Day 2: Great Guana Cay
Nippers and her sister Grabbers will provide you with ample entertainment and spirits.
Arguably one of the prettiest anchorage spots in the Abacos, Great Guana Cay boasts picturesque beaches and great fishing. The small island has some big-name restaurants— hotspots Nippers and Grabbers will provide some of the most fun you’ll have on your trip.
Day 3: Green Turtle Cay
Historic Green Turtle Cay is famous for its shops, restaurants, and scenic sites. The quaint town, New Plymouth, was a former haven for Brits fleeing the US after the Revolutionary War. The New England–influenced architecture lining the streets shows off the historic roots.
Day 4: Treasure Cay
Developed in the ‘50s as a resort town, Treasure Cay has one of the most beautiful beaches in all the Bahamas. Photos do it no justice. For resort-style amenities, stay at the Treasure Cay Marina.
Day 5: Hope Town
Hope Town is best known for its iconic lighthouse on Elbow Cay. It began as another refuge after the Revolutionary War. Hope Town was settled by Wyannie Malone, a widow from South Carolina who traveled with her four children for safe refuge after the American Revolution. Explore the town’s gift shops, restaurants, and historic homes.
Day 6: Tahiti Beach
The picturesque Tahiti beach is also located on Elbow Cay. The beach is only accessible by foot, bike or boat. You’ll find a stretch of secluded beach and a seemingly endless sandbar will help pass the day. Search for seashells or try your hand snorkeling.
Day 7: Little Harbour
In 1951, Randolph Johnson, his wife Margot and their three sons settled on the white sandy beaches. Eventually, the family began the first bronze foundry in the country. Many Johnsons and their relatives are still in the area. Treat yourself to a romp at Pete’s Pub, a cruiser favorite.
Fun fact: Pete’s Pub was founded by Randolph’s son Peter.
What did we miss in the Abacos? Where do you cruise? Let us know in the comments.
Hope Town Harbour is one of the most popular destinations in the Abacos for cruisers and tourists. But the harbor and town are only the tip of the iceberg for a visit to Elbow Cay. White Sound is the small body of water near the mid-section of Elbow Cay, just two miles south of Hope Town, which nearly bisects the island. The well-marked entrance channel carries about six feet of water at low tide. Inside the channel there is limited dockage for meals at The Abaco Inn (abacoinn.com). The marked channel continues due south from the inn to Sea Spray Resort and Marina (seasprayresort.com). Both facilities have excellent food at their respective restaurants, along with many other amenities. There is little room to anchor inside White Sound, but in settled weather cruisers can anchor just outside and south of the White Sound channel and take the tender inside.
Continuing south from White Sound between Elbow Cay and Lubbers Quarters Cay to the west, the deepest water is narrow but passable for most cruising boats if you read the water and proceed carefully. As you approach the southern end of Elbow Cay, an excellent anchorage will open up to port of the channel, extending south to Tahiti Beach. Look for a sandy patch between the sea grasses to drop your hook. Tahiti Beach at the southern tip of Elbow Cay borders on Tilloo Cut and provides a reasonably good pass to the ocean. Plan your visit to Tahiti Beach for mid to low tide when the long white sandbar is exposed. Fish the edge of the cut from the beach where you’re likely to spot fish, turtles, rays, and even a large shark patrolling Tilloo Cut. The beach is a popular picnic spot, and the eastern side offers good beachcombing and shelling.
The short dinghy ride from the Tahiti Beach anchorage to Lubbers Quarters Cay is well worth the trip to visit Cracker P’s, one of the best beach bars and restaurants in The Bahamas. There is plenty of room here to tie up a large center console tender; drop a stern anchor and nose the bow up to the dock. Local legend has it that the place is named for Paul John “Cracker Pinder” Simmons, a fugitive from Georgia who settled here around 1915 and eked out a living from fishing and gardening. Today, you will find an elevated bar and deck with great views of Tahiti Beach and Tilloo Cut, volleyball and bocce courts, excellent food, monthly full moon parties and, perhaps, the longest rum list in the area. crackerps.com
Bahamas Yacht and Travel Show
The second annual Bahamas Yacht and Travel Show will be held June 22-25, 2017, at Bay Street Marina in Nassau, Bahamas. Sponsored by The Bahamas Tourist Office (bahamas.com) and Boat4ADay (boat4aday.com), the weekend event will showcase Bahamas-based luxury charter yachts, boutique hotels, private island villas, and travel experiences, plus handmade crafts, art and designer resort clothing. Boat4ADay specializes in day charters with online booking and can arrange yachts in The Bahamas and throughout the Caribbean. The organizers are planning a fun getaway for families with live music, activities and entertainment throughout the weekend. bahamas-yacht-and-travel-show.com
Like a Disneyland of The Bahamas, the Sea of Abaco is a perfect playground for boaters, which may be why I return periodically to eat fresh conch, stroll along white beaches and catch up with friendly locals.
The sheltered waters of this boomerang-shaped swath of turquoise-colored water are roughly 60 miles long and five miles wide so it’s easy to visit in a short time. Only 200 miles from the southeast coast of Florida, the sea is a perfect weeklong boating getaway although some cruisers get lost in its comfortable ebb and flow for many seasons. Recently, I hopped a 45-minute flight from Ft. Lauderdale to Marsh Harbour to join friends aboard for a leisurely few days visiting two of its unique gems, Man-O-War Cay and Hope Town on Elbow Cay.
Strong trade winds sometimes cook up a local weather condition known as “The Rage” when winds gust into the 40s and the Atlantic serves up angry waves on the outside that make me grateful to be in the flat waters that rarely hold boaters captive in their slips. So, although we had a bit of crusty weather, we set sail east, from Marsh Harbour to Man-O-War Cay, only about 5 nautical miles away.
Wine and appetizers are more enjoyable during Bahamian sunsets. Photo: Zuzana Prochazka
Colorful colonial architecture can be seen throughout the town. in Man-O-War Cay. Photo: Zuzana Prochazka
Pick up a colorful, canvas bag for yourself or others at Albury’s Sail Shop. Photo: Zuzana Prochazka
Treat the chef to an evening away from the galley at Firefly Grill, one of the best eateries in the Abacos. Photo credit JLambertPhotos
Tan your toes in The Abacos.
The landmark sign points the way to more island fun and adventures. Photo: Zuzana Prochazka
Even from a distance, cruisers can pick out Hope Town’s candy cane-striped lighthouse.
Recap the day’s adventures in the Abaco Inn Bar & Lounge on Elbow Cay.
Homemade tiramisu from Firefly Gril. Photo: Zuzana Prochazka
Man-O-War is a 2 ½-mile-long spit of sand where the community is small and tightly knit. A few last names like Albury, Archer and Lowe repeat on local business signs as these families have been here since the settlement was established in the 1700s. Everyone knows one another by first name so when you’re looking for baked goods you might get a response like, “Sarah used to bake out of her house but she’s retired now. Try Jane in the yellow house by the marina.”
Entering Man-O-War Cay involves a bit of threading the needle. The entrance is only about one-catamaran wide and shallow. Once inside, it’s as if you’ve stepped through the looking glass because this township has barely changed in the past hundred years. We caught a $20 mooring and decided to stretch our legs with a hike to the northernmost tip where the calm waters of the sea and the rougher waves of the Atlantic commingle and result in water coloration you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.
Man-O-War Cay has been known for its boatbuilding expertise since the 1880s. You can still stroll along the waterfront and see boats like the popular Abaco dinghies in mid-build at Albury Brothers Boatyard. A must-see is Albury’s Sail Shop where handmade canvas bags have been sewn for three generations. Each of the colorful creations is uniquely Sojer (the name of the local residents) and they make great gifts, so I always stock up.
Water, ice, groceries, and the Dock ‘n Dine restaurant are all on the waterfront but don’t expect much to happen on a Sunday when everyone is in one of the dozen or so churches of just about every denomination. This island is dry, which means you can’t buy alcohol, so we opened a bottle of wine and dined aboard in perfect bliss so long as we kept the bug spray handy as the surrounding mangroves are thick with mosquitos. The protected anchorage was possibly the best sleep I’d had in months.
Word of incoming heavy weather got us up early the next morning to motor to Hope Town, almost literally around the corner, just four miles or 40 minutes away if you dawdle. Tucked in a tiny and well-protected harbor on Elbow Cay, Hope Town is probably where Sherwin Williams sends all the crazy colors of house paint they don’t sell anywhere else.
Settled in 1785 by British Loyalists (loyal to the crown of England after the U.S. War of Independence), Hope Town boasts many fine examples of colonial architecture. The two-street waterfront is chock-a-block with houses showing off fun design details including carved lace-like trim and pineapple motif shutters. But the centerpiece of Hope Town’s skyline is its 130-year-old candy stripe lighthouse, which is one of only two manned, kerosene-fueled lighthouses still in operation in the world. A trek up the 200-plus steps inside is a must if only for the fantastic views from the top.
The Hope Town Harbor entry is well marked if a bit tricky. A shallow channel leads from the sea into the round harbor full of moorings. We picked up another $20 mooring and dinghied to Cap’n Jack’s on the waterfront for breakfast. When a downpour started, it seemed the perfect time to duck into the two-story Wyannie Malone Historical Museum dedicated to documenting the lives of fishermen, pirates and the early settlers. We learned a bit of history as we waited out the rain and chatted with the curator.
The sun popped out and wanting to stretch our legs, we took a hike south to Tahiti Beach. This half-moon-shaped white sand beach transports you from one paradise in the East to another somewhere deep in the South Pacific. Along the way, direction poles were frequent but even though we were on an island, we managed to get lost if ever so briefly. Having underestimated the length of our walk (about seven miles round trip) we fortified ourselves with unbeatable conch salad and a Kalik (local) beer at the Abaco Inn Resort where their taglines say it all, “Tan your Toes in the Abacos.”
Back in the harbor, it was time to check in with the real world via email and text. Hope Town Inn and Marina is cruiser friendly offering showers, laundry, and free Wi-Fi, so we stopped in for happy hour and a bit of Web surfing. The docks were full of boats from far-flung destinations and the bar resonated with distinctly Canadian accents.
That night, we made reservations at Firefly Grill and Resort that dispatched a “golf cart bus” to ferry six of us halfway down the same trek we had done earlier. It was shockingly short given how long we had spent on our afternoon slog. The grouper was sublime and the homemade tiramisu was artfully presented. Lit by strings of light bulbs, the dining deck defined the romance that captivates so many cruisers in The Bahamas. The sultry evening renewed my determination to return again soon because Hope Town and Man-O-War Cay just never get old.
— By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016
Best Time to Go
December through March can be chilly with temps in the 60s and 70s while July to September may be sweltering, not to mention right in the middle of hurricane season. Your best bet is April to June and again October to November, although if you do go in October you might want to consider trip insurance. Winds are usually 5-20 knots except when “The Rage” is on.
What to Watch For
Depth! The Sea of Abaco is shallow and punctuated with unexpected (and at times uncharted) coral flats. There are not many coral heads to sneak up on you but the bottom does change even when well away from any island. Beware the no-see-ums especially in Man-O-War.
Anchoring & Mooring
In Hope Town and Man-O-War, your best bet is to pay for a mooring – about $20 per night. Marina’s include Hope Town Inn & Marina, Lighthouse Marina and Man-O-War Marina.
Food & Fuel
Provisioning is excellent in Marsh Harbour in a large grocery store, which is walking distance from most of the marinas. Hope Town has a convenience store right at the docks near Cap’n Jack’s. Man-O-War can be a provisioning challenge, so bring what you need with you, especially any alcohol. Fuel is available at both locations.
Here are a few outtakes from the Swimsuit 2016 issue.
We had so much fun cruising through the Bahamian Islands for our four-day photo shoot. We hope you have as much fun with these pictures as we had shooting them. Special thanks to all our sponsors who worked with us on the Swimsuit 2016 issue!
An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.
No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
The clean sandy beach at Bimini Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
An ocean view from N. Bimini Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A view from the Great Harbour Cay Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
1. Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Biminito clear Customs.
The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.
2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.
Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.
3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.
Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.
The intense colors of a storm on Treasure Cay Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Susan Landry combing the beach for a remembrance. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Watching a storm from a gazebo on Treasure Cay Beach at the Coco Beach Bar. Photo: Chuck Baier.
4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.
Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.
5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.
Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.
Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas
6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.
From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.
Anchored on the public dock at Green Turtle Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Dinghies tied to the dock at Abaco. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A conch shell pile in Gregory Town. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A spectacular view of the ocean from a beach house deck on Sip Sip Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.
This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.
8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.
The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.
9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.
Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.
Public beach at Rainbow Beach and Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A fish market near Fort Montagu. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Chuck Baier and Susan Landry enjoy the view of Great Harbour Cay from the swim platform of their trawler “Sea Trek.”
Three dinghies anchored on Powerful Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.
We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.
11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.
Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.
12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.
Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.
Hope Town lighthouse an downtown view from a beach dune. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Beach houses on South Palmetto Point. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The lighthouse on Paradise Island. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Palm trees and the ocean view on Montagu Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:
Anchors & Equipment During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.
The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.
You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.
Finding the Right Spot Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.
Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot. Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.
By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015
About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.
The temperature is rising, and days have gotten longer. With the U.S. 4th of July and the 41st Anniversary of The Bahamas Independence July 10th on the calendar this month, you’ll find over 30 events throughout the islands: boating flings, Junkanoo Jump Ups, flag raising ceremonies, Bahamas Royal Police Force Band concerts, small regattas, fish fries, and homecoming parties with local vocalists and bands. Your best bet is to pick a favorite island and just go. Here are a few festivals close to the U.S. mainland.
Abaco Not sure what to plan for the 4th of July? The Abaco Beach Resort hosts a spectacular weekend celebration that includes a BBQ, beach bonfire, music, crab races, and over-the-top fireworks display. Call (242) 367-2158 to reserve a slip in the marina and to receive special event ticket pricing. abacobeachresort.com
Put the 3rd Annual Goombay Summer Festival at the Seaspray Resort in White Sound, Elbow Cay, Abaco, on your festival cruising list July 3-17 and the 31st. Featured attractions include music, food, a Junkanoo rush-out, and local crafts. Sea Spray Marina is one of the more protected marinas in Abaco providing easy access to the Atlantic Ocean and the Sea of Abaco. The marina can accommodate a variety of vessels up to 120 feet long drawing up to 7 feet. Call (242) 366-0065 or (717) 718-8267 while in the U.S. email info@seasprayresort.com, or go to seasprayresort.com/marina.html. If you’re docked in Marsh Harbour, Albury’s Ferry provides a water taxi service from mainland Abaco to Elbow Cay. Call (242) 367-0290. alburysferry.com
While you’re in Elbow Cay there’s a must-see in the tiny village of Hope Town located in the center of town behind the post office—the noted Hummingbird Cottage Art Centre. It opened last year after exhaustive work was done to its historically significant building and is now one of the most charming Loyalist cottages in the Hope Town settlement. The Hummingbird is home to works by celebrated artists and award-winning international spotlight artists such as Amos Ferguson—“Paint by Amos”—The Bahamas’ most famous native painter. Hours are Monday through Saturday, 9:30AM to 5PM, and they close the end of August for a month or so. Private appointments are available. Call (242) 366-0272. hopetownart.com
Hope Town is also great for specialty galley provisioning at foodie spots such as Vernon’s Grocery & Upper Crust Bakery located on the corner of Lover’s Lane and Back Street. Cruisers in the know call in advance to reserve Vernon’s special delights. Otherwise, expect a long line at the front door. Vernon’s is famous for fresh-daily baked breads and delicious homemade pies—Key lime pie is still the best seller. Hours are Monday through Saturday, 8AM to 6PM. Call (242) 366-0037 or channel 16 on the VHF.
Berry Islands Hosted by the Ministry of Tourism, this Goombay Summer Festival is held at the Great Harbour Cay Marina on the 4th, 11th, and 18th showcasing the Bahamian cultural heritage with Rake n’ Scrape bands, dance groups, limbo, food, drink, local souvenir vending, a Junkanoo parade, and Goombay dancers each evening. Contact the Administrators Office at (242) 367-8291.
Great Harbour Cay Marina is under new management, nestled inside a serene harbor with 65 slips that can accommodate vessels up to 130-feet LOA drawing 8 feet. This “Hurricane Hole” is one of the most protected marinas in The Bahamas. Each slip has 30/50/100-amp shore power and water. Marina amenities include ice, showers, laundry, Wi-Fi internet access, pool bar and restaurant, 24-hour security cameras, liquor store, golf cart, and car rentals. Customs and Immigration is available at the marina. Call (242) 367-8005. greatharbourcay.com/webpages/marina.asp
You’ll find the Great Harbour Marina’s famous “burgers in paradise” beach bar—overlooking a gorgeous four-mile stretch of beach—handsomely remodeled and offering beach umbrellas, lounge chairs, dune buggies, and kayaks for rent. Hours are weekdays from 7:30AM to 6PM for breakfast and lunch, and weekends from 7:30AM to 9:30PM for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Cruisers visiting Great Harbour Cay have several dining options. The Rocky Hill Bar and Restaurant adjacent to the marina serves lunch and dinner every day of the week— international cuisine with a Bahamian twist, excellent cracked conch and pan-fried fish. Call (242) 367-8051. For a more local experience, head to Coolie Maes at Bullock’s Harbour offering authentic Bahamian dinners; sit outside to catch beautiful sunset views. Call Coolie Mae to place your order ahead of your arrival at (242) 367-8730. Carriearl Hotel located on the old golf course away from the beach also has a small restaurant with international fare—reservations are recommended. Open Thursday through Saturday and for Sunday brunch. Call (242) 367-8785.
Bimini Just 50 nm from the U.S. mainland, the Biminis host several events in July beginning with the U.S. Independence Visitors Reception on July 4th. In appreciation of visitors to the island, a cultural exchange features Bahamian food, art, crafts, music on North Bimini, and a beautiful fireworks display on both North and South Islands. Contact the Bimini Tourist office at (242) 347-3529.
Just 135 miles off the coast of Florida, due east of Grand Bahama Island is unsung, oft overlooked Abaco—the northern tip of The Bahamas. The 780-square-mile cruising ground boasts long stretches of unspoiled beach, clear turquoise water, quaint villages, good provisioning, professional marine services, friendly locals, great snorkeling, a wide range of eateries, and predictable 5- to 20-knot trade winds. Little Abaco and Great Abaco Islands—from Crown Haven to Hole in the Wall—form a 120-mile arc that acts as the “mainland” for an outer archipelago of small reef-protected “cays” that dot the Sea of Abaco.
Abaco seems to exist in a time warp. Despite its proximity to the United States, none of the hustle and bustle of the more populated Bahamian Islands has crept northward. That is not an accident. Most Abaconians are aggressively anti-development and determined to preserve this unique and special place. Each of the Abaco islands still has its own distinct persona—many families, descendants of the Loyalists who fled the United States during and after the American Revolution, have called these islands home for well over 200 years. Some of the villages are quaint and charmingly gentrified, others a little less prosperous, but all are well tended with at least one water-view, aboveground cemetery. The surnames on those headstones are the same names on today’s shops, ferries, boatyards, and services.
The jumping-off point for a loop cruise of the Abaco archipelago is centrally located in Marsh Harbour, the third-largest city in The Bahamas. Its protected, deep water has made it the main supply depot for the islands and the home for most of the ferries, yacht charter companies, and a tiny but international airport. The Conch Inn Marina, with pool and restaurant, hosts the Moorings/Sunsail base. Within walking distance, a new Maxwell Supermarket has significantly raised the provisioning bar.
Lubbers’ Landing, a colorful Caribbean-style spot.
Freshly caught Bahamian lobster.
The hand-painted directional sign at Cracker P’s.
Enjoy some grub at Cap’n Jack’s. Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
A colorful sign for “Yellow Bird.” Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
On Da Beach sits on a dune over looking Elbow Cay beach. Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
Tahiti Beach is your own deserted island to enjoy a sunny lunch. Photo: John Lambert
An easy sail from Marsh Harbour, Lubbers Quarters Cay is a small seven-acre island that is home to funky Cracker P’s beach shack. At the head of a 200-foot dock lined with philosophical “Burma Shave”-style signs, Cracker P’s offers lots to do—from a closet full of board games to the equipment for volleyball, bocce, croquet, horseshoes, badminton, ping-pong, dominoes, and darts. Climb the steps up and over the 40-foot sand dunes to a large sweep of pristine beach, or hike the lush estate amid sapodilla (planted by the original Cracker P), mahogany, tamarind, and mangroves as well as wild orchids, bromeliads and hibiscus.
Little Harbour
The southernmost stop on an Abaco cruise, Little Harbour’s entrance—marked by pairs of red and green “found object” markers—opens into a harbor that’s protected nearly 360 degrees. Famous Pete’s Pub, Gallery and Foundry sits at the head of the harbor and rents moorings, serves casual fare in an open-air palapa, and presides over an atelier. Descendants of sculptor Randolph Johnston continue to cast bronze sculptures using a 5,000-year-old lost-wax process. Visit the Johnston Family Gallery and ask about a tour of the foundry. After a swim off the beach on the harbor’s eastern side, or off the mile-and-a-half stretch of white sand on the ocean side, join the regulars at the bar fashioned from pieces of Langosta, the old sailing vessel that carried the Johnston family to Little Harbour in the early 1950s.
Elbow Cay (Hope Town)
Founded in 1785 by Loyalists, Hope Town’s 120-foot red and white candy-cane lighthouse, protected harbor and picturesque ambience make it the poster child for the Abaco archipelago. Three marinas offer transient dockage on the harbor’s west side. The transplanted New England village is a dinghy ride across the harbor and vaunts lovingly restored, brightly colored structures—house shops, private homes, galleries, and bed-and-breakfasts drip with Bougainvillea and are edged with white picket fences. The narrow sidewalk-like streets are designed for walkers and golf carts, and public entrances lead to a sweep of gorgeous, pink-powder ocean beach protected by a live coral reef just 30 feet offshore. The compelling Wyannie Malone Historical Museum is worth a stop. Its exhibits reveal the history of the village and larger archipelago. Among them are artifacts collected by infamous shipwreckers. Hope Town owes some of its early affluence to a group who enticed boats with false signal lights that led them to founder on the reef; they would then salvage the cargo. The island of Elbow Cay is a quarter-mile wide at its beamiest point and six miles from stem to stern.
Man-O-War Cay
One of the strongholds of Abaco tradition, most of the Man-O-War families are part of the original immigration. They became boat builders and shipwrights, and today Albury Brothers’ “Deep-V” runabouts have a passionate following that extends far beyond The Bahamas. There are several options for parts, boat supplies and repairs: Man-O-War Marina has slips and moorings; Edwin’s Boat Yard offers two full-service facilities boasting an extensive marine parts inventory; Man-O-War Hardware is a gold mine for cruisers. The village has two roads that parallel the harbor so it’s easy to make a long loop and see everything in an hour or so including three eateries and The Sail Shop’s hand-made duffel bags, hats and jackets. Two well-supplied groceries offer everything but alcohol: Man-O-War Cay is a “dry” island.
Great Guana Cay
Famed Nipper’s Beach Bar & Grill put Great Guana Cay on the map. Right on the ocean dunes, it sports picnic tables, chairs and multi-level decks painted every color of the rainbow along with a shallow two-level pool designed mostly for the pool bar. The weekly pig roast is a big attraction accompanied by a powerful orange concoction. Despite Great Guana’s five-mile-wide, untouched ocean beach, the settlement is still delightfully small—a good part of the island wants it to stay that way. Pick up a mooring in Fishers Bay and dinghy ashore, or head over to upscale Orchid Bay Marina and Resort for a pampered experience.
Treasure Cay
One of the few big yacht options in Abaco, the 150-slip Treasure Cay Marina and Hotel houses a pool, 18-hole golf course, restaurants, 100-room hotel, rental villas and condos, and tennis courts. Its gorgeous three-mile arc of powder-sand beach dazzles and is well worth a visit. A popular bar is dockside and a low-key, upmarket restaurant overlooks the pool and harbor. Abaco Ceramics’ studio sells its coveted wares in shops all over The Bahamas.
Green Turtle Cay
The northernmost destination for Abaco-centric cruises is Green Turtle Cay, which requires a short outside passage around Whale Cay. When the ocean is raging, this passage is not recommended; the Cruiser’s Net (Channel 68, at 08:15AM) gives up-to-date weather reports. Green Turtle is home to three harbors: Settlement (small boats only), White Sound and Black Sound. The latter is the closest viable anchorage to the historic village of New Plymouth. A good way to see the whole cay is to join the locals and rent a golf cart. The history of Green Turtle is chronicled in the Albert Lowe Museum and the adjacent Memorial Sculpture Garden. White Sound features the quietly elegant Green Turtle Club and Marina with a pool high above the harbor, cottage accommodations and an old Bahamian-style fine-dining restaurant that serves three meals a day. Across the harbor, Bluff House Yacht Club and Marina’s Ipe (Brazilian teak) docks are filled with big sport-fish boats whose owners enjoy the facility’s two pools, two restaurants and first-class amenities. Cruising the Abacos is viable at most any time of year with the unique culture, gin-clear water and spectacular beaches. But the best weather seems to be March through May; it’s about the same temperature as the Palm Beach area of Florida.
