Great Inagua’s Salty History

Great Inagua is worth its salt

THE SOUTHERNMOST ISLAND OF THE BAHAMAS, Great Inagua, and its smaller neighbor Little Inagua lie just 50 miles from the eastern tip of Cuba and even closer to the Turks and Caicos Islands. Great Inagua is the third-largest island in The Bahamas, with a hot climate that’s drier than the more northerly islands. This is a forbidding place for small boats since it is mostly surrounded by reef and drops off shockingly fast to the deep-blue ocean depths. There are no marinas here, just an open roadstead at Matthew Town, the only settlement on the Inaguas, and a few spots enclosed by reef but with difficult entrances. Not surprisingly, it is rarely visited by cruising boats. But because it falls close along the pathway to and from the Caribbean, it often serves as a stopover for fuel, rest and limited provisions.

Little Inagua is uninhabited, while Great Inagua has a population of about 1,000 and is largely focused on salt production, as it has been for hundreds of years. Bermudians settled here in 1803, coming via the Turks and Caicos, and began the first commercial salt production, selling to passing ships. Nearly all of the residents live in Matthew Town, and the Morton Salt Company has a huge operation here exporting more than a million tons per year. High mounds of pure, white salt greet the visitor. Morton Salt is the successor to Henagua Salt Pond Company, formed in 1848 and said to be the first formal corporation in The Bahamas. Although this is not a tourist destination in any way, the commercial operation means there are more amenities than at many of the other Out Islands, making it useful as a stop-off in settled weather. Customs and immigration are located at the airport but will provide check-in at the Matthew Town basin.

Upcoming Bahamian Events:

MARS BAY CONCH FEST
At another off-the-beaten-path location, South Andros hosts the annual Mars Bay Conch Fest October 13-15. The weekend will include conch cracking, skinning and eating contests and competitions for the best conch salad and fastest conch salad maker. A Junkanoo Rush-out and live music events are also popular. For more information, call
(242) 357-2150 or (242) 369-5019 or visit bahamas.com/event/mars-bay-conch-fest.

BACK TO CAT ISLAND FESTIVAL
The same weekend, Cat Island will hold its Back to Cat Island Festival at New Bight Park. This annual homecoming celebration for former and current residents of Cat Island features a weekend of activities, including gospel concerts, live performances by Bahamian recording artists, a Junkanoo Rush-out, family fun and games, and local food and drinks on sale. Contact Ezra Russell at (242) 342-3014 or visit bahamas.com/event/back-cat-island-festival.

ABACO OPEN WATER SWIM RACE
The Abaco Open Water Swim Race will be held in Marsh Harbour on Sunday, October 8th, starting at 8AM. This 5K race for professional and amateur swimmers is a charity event hosted each year by the Abaco Swim Club. The racecourse is located in the waterway near Albury’s Ferry Dock. Participants can also compete in paddleboard and kayak challenges. The post-race party will include music, food, drinks, and the awards ceremony. bahamas.com/event/abaco-open-water-swim-race

NAVIGATION NEWS During his Parliamentary budget speech, the Hon. Frankie Campbell, MP, minister of transport and local government, mentioned that his ministry will improve the country’s aids-to-navigation (ATONS) for safer boating in The Bahamas.

By Rex Noel, Southern Boating September 2017

PHOTOS: BAHAMAS TOURISM, ADOBE STOCK/HARLEQUIN9, YITING SHEN, WIKIPEDIA/MARK A. WILSON

Little islands, big wildlife

Great Inagua is a popular port in The Bahamas where you can clear Customs and find fuel,water and groceries. Here, wildlife is abundant and home to some of the most intriguing species in The Bahamas. For those interested in dining ashore, there are several tasty restaurants from which to choose. The island specialty is wild boar, and “kicking beef” commonly appears on the menu.

Birdwatchers travel from all over the world to observe the burrowing owls, Bahamian parrots, spoonbills, and the amazing 60,000-flamingo spectacle during nesting season. This population of West Indian Flamingos is one of world’s great conservation success stories. A vast area of Inagua is a preserved national park under the Bahamas National Trust’s supervision led by Wardens Henry Nixon and Casper Burrows. Contact either Nixon or Burrows for a tour, and bring your best camera with a telephoto lens. Be sure to ask the wardens how to prepare for the expedition, and you’ll certainly want to pack plenty of water and sun protection.

Morton Bahamas, a major producer of sea salt, is the chief employer on the island. Burrows previously worked there, so he knows all about the industry and systems. Most importantly, the marina is finally getting cleaned up, rebuilt and expanded to make room for larger Defense Force vessels, mail boats and yachts. All wrecked and sunken boats have been removed, and the controlling depth is set at 15′. The south wall, available to yachts and commercial vessels, is projected to extend 300′. This work in progress should be completed by fall 2016. In the meantime, boats will be able to go into the marina for fuel, water and possibly even a quick stay as long as they’re not in the way of the construction.

The best place to anchor for diving (and peace and quiet) is Man-O-War Cay, but if you prefer being closer to town, anchoring by the airport is the way to go. Prior to inclement weather, move your vessel into the safer waters of the marina. Westerly winds may cause small surges and discomfort in the marina, but you will be safe.

Dredging Mouth Sound. Photo: Barbara Crouchley

An osprey sits atop a masthead eyeing prey below the water’s surface. Photo: Barbara Crouchley

Little Inagua

Little Inagua, situated slightly northeast of Great Inagua, is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. Weather permitting, a trip out to the cay is guaranteed to be one of your most memorable cruising experiences. If you end up wandering inland, watch out for the poisonwood that grows around the cay. The anchorage is comfortable in easterly weather, so you can stay a while. The entirety of Little Inagua is a national park and also considered a no-take area out to 100 fathoms. If you visit during turtle nesting season (April through September), please report nesting tracks to the Bahamas Sea Turtle Network Facebook page: Tracking Sea Turtles in The Bahamas.

The masthead

It’s possible to spot an osprey soaring over the shorelines of The Bahamas. However, this is no dreamy, meditative Ishmael standing his watch in search of whales. Unique among North American raptors for its ability to dive into the water to catch live fish, observers can identify the North American Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) by its black mask wrapping around the head, while its West Indian subspecies (P.h. ridgwayi) has a much fainter mask.

Bimini Big Game Club

Complete Marine Services of Spanish Wells recently finished rebuilding the docks at the Bimini Big Game Club. The upgrade is especially important as this summer’s billfish season approaches. As the Big Game Club mentions on their website, the sands in the channel approaching Bimini are constantly shifting. They strongly advise that vessels call the marina for the latest information on how to safely navigate the channel. biggameclubbimini.com

LeoRose Sunset Beach Bar & Grill

Former Defense Force Officer Leo Kirby opened LeoRose, a new waterfront restaurant and bar in James Cistern (about 6 miles south of Hatchet Bay). The new spot serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. Lawrent Saunders, who cooked some great meals for us in Sandy Point, Abaco, moved back home to run the kitchen. Ask Saunders to whip up some of his conch-fried rice and you are in for a culinary treat! To make your LeoRose experience even better, the property has rooms as well as rental cars and small boats. With permitting weather, you may anchor your boat near the shore, dinghy in to the small dock and tie up for a meal. The location is perfect for sundowners and a green flash.

Navigation notes:

The western entrance to Spanish Wells is dredged to a controlling depth of 10′. This important channel allows deep draft boats to enter and exit the Spanish Wells harbor, even at low tide. When approaching Spanish Wells from the south, stay about a half mile off of Royal Island, and then head toward the power plant on Russell Island. About 100 yards off the power plant, turn to run parallel to Russell until you can turn into the marked opening of Mouth Sound channel (western entrance to Spanish Wells harbor). This is the best track for a 9-foot draft at half tide

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine June 2016

The magic of Eleuthera

Long-time resident of Governor’s Harbour Katie Black Frost is the author of Eleuthera, a beautiful work about the island with photographs from Marc Coeffic and Harry Paungger.

Eleuthera has a long, fascinating history starting with the arrival of the Eleutheran Adventurers—a group of English Puritans and religious Independents—in the mid-17^th century. The island is known for its livestock and agriculture—eat an Eleutheran pineapple in season, and you will not want to leave. With more than 200 miles of coast and miles of pink sand beaches, Eleuthera is a gift to fishermen and tourists. On her website, Frost invites readers to “Come immerse yourself in Eleuthera… lose yourself in her magic.” The book is available online at eleutherabook.com, at the Haynes Library or at Tippy’s/Pineapple Fields’ gift shop in Governor’s Harbour. Read the book and feel the magic of this island for yourself.

Birds of a feather
What better way for a birder to get around than by boat? Birding can be a family activity or a full-on academic profession, and The Bahamas is one of the world’s great places to see birds.

The repopulation of the flamingos in Great Inagua is hailed as a conservation success story. Other birds like the Bahamas parrot have also been saved, and the effort continues. Birding is constantly growing in popularity throughout The Bahamas, and the National Audubon Society has recently trained 80 Bahamian bird guides.

The Bahamian government has designated The Jolters north of Andros as a protected area. Hundreds of migratory piping plovers are now seen there every winter. The Jolters has an anchorage that can be reached with a 4′ draft on the high tide. You can also anchor outside Morgan’s Bluff and run out in your tender.

Birding tours are available throughout the islands and most have websites. Carolyn Wardle (bahamasoutdoors.com, 242-362-1574 or 457-0329) leads the Bahamas National Trust Bird Club, and her organization Bahamas Outdoors has run birding and nature tours for many years. Contact Wardle, who has worked throughout the islands and has innumerable contacts, for more information.

Yet you don’t have to wait for a guide to get started. Just grab your binoculars, camera, bird book, and go for a walk or get in your dinghy to cruise the mangroves. A recent newcomer, Linda Cooper, in West End, Grand Bahama, identified more than 130 species in her first year alone.

Rum Cay, Crooked Island, Acklins
Electricity and communications have been reestablished in these islands that were devastated by Hurricane Joaquin, though rebuilding will continue for many months. The citizens of Rum Cay have scheduled their annual homecoming for February 26^th—try and make it down there for the event to provide moral support and help the hurting local economy. To find out more information and how to help call Bobby Little at (242) 525-0184. Homecomings are great occasions for relatives and friends to reunite and an opportunity to welcome new friends.

Reach down to the anchorage north of Landrail Point from Rum Cay and if you need help with anything, go ashore and ask for Willie Gibson or Michael Carroll. Cruise east from Landrail to Lovely Bay, which has an anchorage inside the reef or go on to Atwood Harbour. This is a natural cruise track for boats headed for the Turks and Caicos, but it is easy enough to cruise to Crooked-Acklins and return downwind to Clarence Town, Long Island. The citizens of all these islands love visitors, and anything you can do to return the hospitality they have extended throughout the years will be much appreciated.

Little Harbour, Abaco
Little Harbour is a harbor with exceptional charm. The Johnston family, winter residents and yachtsmen provide alluring art, good fellowship and the must-go-to Pete’s Pub Beach Bar. Those entertaining a visit would do well to read Randolph Johnson’s autobiographical Artist on his Island: a Study in Self Reliance and check out petespub.com for general information.

There is now controversy over a proposed new marina in the harbor that could use up some of the limited mooring space, put added pressure on the environment and change the ambience. It’s the age-old tension between developers, environmentalists and those who want to protect a way of life. Friends of the Environment is monitoring the process and will surely act if there is a serious threat of long term environmental impact, but change may well come to Little Harbour, so the time to visit is now.

Old Bahamas photos

“Tee Time” courtesy of Bahamas Country Club Golf Tournament. Photo: oldbahamas.com

If Bahamian history piques your interest go to oldbahamas.com, where there’s a large archive of historical Bahamian photographs. The images range from the sponge fishery to colonial architecture and the development of Grand Bahama in the 1950s. The website is instructive and a lot of fun.

Navigation notes:
Northwest Light has finally been replaced. This is an important aid to navigation for those cruising from Cat Cay and Bimini to Chub Cay and Nassau. The light, however, has been reported out, so don’t depend on the marker at night—find it with your radar.

by Stephen Connett – Southern Boating Magazine, February 2016