Tag: Governor’s Harbour

Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve

The Bahamas are famous for their crystal-clear waters, but our Bahamas Update writer finds there’s just as much to appreciate on terra firma.

We interrupted our beach and water-focused cruise of the central Bahamas to spend a few days in Governor’s Harbour in central Eleuthera. The highlight of our visit was an afternoon spent walking the beautiful trails of nearby Leon Levy Native Plant Preserve. Just two miles south of town, visitors can walk extensive manicured trails and boardwalks while viewing and learning about the natural plants and habitats of The Bahamas. It is a lovely and tranquil spot that educates while honoring the history of this island and gives promise that this beauty will be preserved for future generations.

Leon Levy and Shelby White were long-time homeowners in Governor’s Harbour and loved the natural environment and the lifestyle of the island. Mr. Levy was a well-known New York investor, and the couple were prolific philanthropists. Much of their giving supported archeological research and preservation around the world through the Leon Levy Foundation. Levy spent his early career as a partner at Oppenheimer & Co., where he was among the first to develop and offer mutual funds to the public. He and a colleague later formed Odyssey Partners—an early pioneer of hedge fund investing. After Levy’s death in 2003, Ms. White approached The Bahamas National Trust seeking a partnership that would honor her husband while contributing to the protection of native plant species, the history and the environment of the island. Today, the preserve is operated by the National Trust and funded by the Leon Levy Foundation.

The preserve was the first national park created in Eleuthera, and it provides a fascinating look at the terrestrial environment of these islands. This environment is often overlooked because of the focus on the surrounding seas. The preserve features several prominent habitats, including both freshwater and mangrove wetland areas along with the hardwood forests of higher ridges. Another area houses blooming plants and displays multiple species of orchids and bromeliads in their natural environment. Other trails provide an introduction to the plant-based traditional medicine of the islands and offers warnings about the toxic plants found here.

We walked away from the Welcome Center and immediately entered the mangrove wetland, which includes a man-made limestone waterfall. There are no natural waterfalls in The Bahamas; this one was built primarily to help aerate the water. The mangrove wetland contains all four local mangrove species: red, black, white, and buttonwood. A variety of wildlife lives among the roots and foliage of the mangroves, including crabs and juvenile fish that find protection within the dense thicket of roots. Bird species found here include the green heron, yellow warbler and grey kingbird. The convoluted root systems trap organic debris, creating soil and helping to protect Bahamian shorelines from storm waves.

One of the foundations of the preserve is a commitment to education. They regularly host school-age students and provide experiences in botany, insect biology, horticulture, plant ecology, and other related subjects. Students participate in activities guided by staff members and researchers to encourage an appreciation for their island’s environment and history, and they can also attend a one-week summer camp program that provides an in-depth experience. The preserve also teaches the teachers with workshops to give them hands-on knowledge, which enables them to better fulfill the environmental curriculum at their schools. At the college level, the center offers several internships for students that are focused on the islands’ terrestrial flora and fauna. The interns can participate in the ongoing research of the preserve by conducting their own research projects and presenting them publicly.

Traditional folk medicine, often called “bush medicine”, is one of the most fascinating subjects presented at the preserve and a core part of its mission. The people of The Bahamas, from the early Lucayans and African slaves to some modern-day residents, have developed and practiced homeopathic treatment for various ailments using indigenous plant species. In most cases this involves the brewing of roots, bark and leaves into a drink usually called a “tea”. A core part of the preserve’s mission is to learn and preserve this traditional knowledge. Some experts have identified hundreds of species of plants that have been used to treat common illnesses such as indigestion, skin disorders, the flu, headaches, and diarrhea. The Medicinal Trail incorporates over 100 of these plant species organized by specific ailments and the appropriate specimens of the trees and plants used to treat the condition. The exhibits include Strong Back, a small tree often used as a component in teas with supposed aphrodisiac properties. Of course, most of the uses are more prosaic, but modern research is proving the effectiveness of some of these folk remedies and confirming the value of preservation as practiced here.

Surface freshwater is rare in The Bahamas since there are only a few lakes and one river (on Andros). Practically all of the natural fresh water here comes from rainfall. Most of it is pumped from groundwater that is now supplemented in modern times with desalination plants. Rainfall has been collected for centuries in cisterns, above or below ground tanks. An old, abandoned cistern found on the property inspired the creation of a freshwater wetland, complete with its own waterfall, to support those species of plants and animals native to these habitats in The Bahamas. Built with the assistance of renowned landscape architect Raymond Jungles, the exhibit allows Bahamians to see a natural environment they may not encounter on their home island.

There are relatively few structures on the preserve, but they were all built by local craftsmen using native limestone and hardwoods. The Lath House is a striking structure that provides partial shade for an active nursery of native plants. Ethan’s Tower, located atop a ridge near the center of the property, reaches 75 feet above sea level—an exceptional height in this part of the world. The views are spectacular both within the preserve and extending out to the ocean. This was where we chose to end our visit, spending some time soaking in the views and reflecting on the vision that created this beautiful place.

The center is open from 9AM to 5PM daily. Admission is $10 for adults, $8 for seniors and $6 for children under 12. For more information visit levypreserve.org.

By Rex Noel Southern Boating Magazine May 2017

All That Jazz

Bahamian Jazz takes center stage this spring.

At Governor’s Harbour, Eleuthera, from March 29th to April 2nd, the annual All That Jazz festival will bring together jazz artists from across The Bahamas. They will be joined by prestigious international artists in a series of concerts and events in Governor’s Harbour and the surrounding area. All profits from the event will go to support the Haynes Library downtown (facebook.com/hayneslibraryeleuthera) in its mission to promote literacy and research for the residents of Eleuthera. For details and tickets visit the jazz festival website at eleutheraallthatjazz.com.

Preacher’s Cave

The Devil’s Backbone is a sprawling, jagged reef system spread along the northern shore of Eleuthera. Extending from close to shore well into the Atlantic, it links two of the premier destinations in the area—Spanish Wells in the west and Harbour Island off the northeast corner of Eleuthera. On shore along this route lies an important site in the history of Eleuthera and The Bahamas—Preacher’s Cave.

In 1647, a group of Christians seeking new lands and religious freedom from Bermuda shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone reef and came ashore. Led by William Sayles, the shipwrecked sailors made their way to safety and took refuge in a cave. They used a large rock, now known as Pulpit Rock, as their altar and are said to have held church services here for 100 years to commemorate their deliverance from the reef. These were the first Europeans to settle in The Bahamas, and their descendants still make up much of the population of Spanish Wells, Eleuthera and Harbour Island. What became known as Preacher’s Cave is also an important window into the pre-European history of the islands. Archeological excavations have identified a number of Lucayan grave sites here, as well as evidence of everyday life in the period ranging from the 8th to 17th centuries. Genetic links have been found between these graves and current residents of Spanish Wells.

The Devil’s Backbone route offers good water and is transited daily by the high-speed ferry Bo Hengy III, but it is a convoluted passage strewn with shallow coral heads. Grass beds make it difficult to read the deep water, and some of the passages between reef patches are quite narrow. Any cloud cover, a poor sun angle or breaking waves from a northerly swell will obscure the passage, and swirling currents may push you off line making it extremely dangerous. Only those cruisers with extensive experience reading the water should attempt this passage and then only in perfect conditions.

If you don’t want to risk your own boat, the high-speed ferry runs every day from Spanish Wells to Harbour Island in the morning and returns in the afternoon. It is quite an experience to watch from the top deck as the ferry hits speeds of up to 30 knots with reefs clearly visible just off her beam. If you do want to take your own boat, there are a number of experienced pilots available in Spanish Wells. Try hailing “Little Woody”, “A1 Broadshad” or “Bandit” on VHF 16, or inquire locally for other options. The pilot fee generally starts at $100 one way.

Fishing tournament schedule

Many tournaments are held in The Bahamas in the winter months. While the following is certainly not a complete list, it gives some idea of the possibilities.

• February 1-5: Resorts World Bimini Wahoo Tournament, North Bimini. Contact eventinfo@resortsworldoceansports.com or visit resortsworldoceansports.com.

• February 5-7: Hawk’s Nest Annual Wahoo Championship. Contact info@hawks-nest.com or visit hawks-nest.com.

• February 9-11: Sea Spray Abaco Challenge; seasprayabacochallenge.com

• March 26-29: Hawk’s Nest 6th Annual Hang ‘Em High Tournament; hawks-nest.com

Navigation update

In mid-November, a cruising boat reported surprisingly shallow water depths in the passage from Spanish Cay south to Green Turtle Cay. Depths of 6-7 feet were reported in an area open to ocean waters and charted at 12-15 feet. There was visual evidence of new sand washed in from the cut. This is probably not a widespread problem but may occur in isolated spots throughout the Abacos and Exumas after Hurricane Matthew.

Spanish Wells Yacht Haven has completed their major two-year-long renovation. New docks are in place with power and reverse osmosis water, a new swimming pool, laundry, and showers. A new restaurant, Wreckers, opened in April. Marina management also reported that some dredging was done in their entrance channel area providing improved access to their slips.

Chub Cay Marina in The Berry Islands remained closed at press time due to damage from Hurricane Matthew. The resort itself and many private homes were also extensively damaged. Repairs are underway but the specialized contractors needed for the marina infrastructure are in short supply at this time. In the northern Berrys, Great Harbor Cay Marina fared much better. Despite some land-side damage, the marina is in full operation and the community is recovering quickly.

By Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017

The magic of Eleuthera

Long-time resident of Governor’s Harbour Katie Black Frost is the author of Eleuthera, a beautiful work about the island with photographs from Marc Coeffic and Harry Paungger.

Eleuthera has a long, fascinating history starting with the arrival of the Eleutheran Adventurers—a group of English Puritans and religious Independents—in the mid-17th century. The island is known for its livestock and agriculture—eat an Eleutheran pineapple in season, and you will not want to leave. With more than 200 miles of coast and miles of pink sand beaches, Eleuthera is a gift to fishermen and tourists. On her website, Frost invites readers to “Come immerse yourself in Eleuthera… lose yourself in her magic.” The book is available online at eleutherabook.com, at the Haynes Library or at Tippy’s/Pineapple Fields’ gift shop in Governor’s Harbour. Read the book and feel the magic of this island for yourself.

Birds of a feather
What better way for a birder to get around than by boat? Birding can be a family activity or a full-on academic profession, and The Bahamas is one of the world’s great places to see birds.

The repopulation of the flamingos in Great Inagua is hailed as a conservation success story. Other birds like the Bahamas parrot have also been saved, and the effort continues. Birding is constantly growing in popularity throughout The Bahamas, and the National Audubon Society has recently trained 80 Bahamian bird guides.

The Bahamian government has designated The Jolters north of Andros as a protected area. Hundreds of migratory piping plovers are now seen there every winter. The Jolters has an anchorage that can be reached with a 4′ draft on the high tide. You can also anchor outside Morgan’s Bluff and run out in your tender.

Birding tours are available throughout the islands and most have websites. Carolyn Wardle (bahamasoutdoors.com, 242-362-1574 or 457-0329) leads the Bahamas National Trust Bird Club, and her organization Bahamas Outdoors has run birding and nature tours for many years. Contact Wardle, who has worked throughout the islands and has innumerable contacts, for more information.

Yet you don’t have to wait for a guide to get started. Just grab your binoculars, camera, bird book, and go for a walk or get in your dinghy to cruise the mangroves. A recent newcomer, Linda Cooper, in West End, Grand Bahama, identified more than 130 species in her first year alone.

Rum Cay, Crooked Island, Acklins
Electricity and communications have been reestablished in these islands that were devastated by Hurricane Joaquin, though rebuilding will continue for many months. The citizens of Rum Cay have scheduled their annual homecoming for February 26th—try and make it down there for the event to provide moral support and help the hurting local economy. To find out more information and how to help call Bobby Little at (242) 525-0184. Homecomings are great occasions for relatives and friends to reunite and an opportunity to welcome new friends.

Reach down to the anchorage north of Landrail Point from Rum Cay and if you need help with anything, go ashore and ask for Willie Gibson or Michael Carroll. Cruise east from Landrail to Lovely Bay, which has an anchorage inside the reef or go on to Atwood Harbour. This is a natural cruise track for boats headed for the Turks and Caicos, but it is easy enough to cruise to Crooked-Acklins and return downwind to Clarence Town, Long Island. The citizens of all these islands love visitors, and anything you can do to return the hospitality they have extended throughout the years will be much appreciated.

Little Harbour, Abaco
Little Harbour is a harbor with exceptional charm. The Johnston family, winter residents and yachtsmen provide alluring art, good fellowship and the must-go-to Pete’s Pub Beach Bar. Those entertaining a visit would do well to read Randolph Johnson’s autobiographical Artist on his Island: a Study in Self Reliance and check out petespub.com for general information.

There is now controversy over a proposed new marina in the harbor that could use up some of the limited mooring space, put added pressure on the environment and change the ambience. It’s the age-old tension between developers, environmentalists and those who want to protect a way of life. Friends of the Environment is monitoring the process and will surely act if there is a serious threat of long term environmental impact, but change may well come to Little Harbour, so the time to visit is now.

Old Bahamas photos

“Tee Time” courtesy of Bahamas Country Club Golf Tournament. Photo: oldbahamas.com

If Bahamian history piques your interest go to oldbahamas.com, where there’s a large archive of historical Bahamian photographs. The images range from the sponge fishery to colonial architecture and the development of Grand Bahama in the 1950s. The website is instructive and a lot of fun.

Navigation notes:
Northwest Light has finally been replaced. This is an important aid to navigation for those cruising from Cat Cay and Bimini to Chub Cay and Nassau. The light, however, has been reported out, so don’t depend on the marker at night—find it with your radar.

 

by Stephen Connett  – Southern Boating Magazine, February 2016

Tips for Anchoring in The Bahamas

An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.

No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas. 

Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas. 

1.  Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Bimini to clear Customs.

The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.

2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.

Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.

3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.

Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.

4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.

Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.

5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.

Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.

Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas

6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.

From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.

7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.

This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.

8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.

The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.

9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.

Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.

10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.

We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.

11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.

Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.

12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.

Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.

Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:

Anchors & Equipment
During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.

The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.

You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.

Finding the Right Spot
Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.

Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot.
Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.

By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015

About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.

Additional tips for anchoring.

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