One of the best things about traveling in The Bahamas (and there are many), is the sheer number of islands. The archipelago contains over 700 islands, all unique, beautiful, and cruise-able in their own right. But it’s the Abacos, a 120-mile sprawling island chain that stands out as a cruiser’s paradise.
Getting to the Abacos is a relatively quick trip by boat. It’s even quicker if you fly and charter or rent. Either way, the Abacos are best enjoyed over several days with family and friends.
Our Abacos Itinerary:
Man-O-War Cay
Day 1: Man-O-War Cay
Man-O-War is famous for its boat building history and Albury Brother’s Boats still produces some boats there today. The island is very laid-back, even by Bahamian standards, with a population of about 350 locals. There is also a public dock and a few small shops new Man-O-War Marina.
Day 2: Great Guana Cay
Nippers and her sister Grabbers will provide you with ample entertainment and spirits.
Arguably one of the prettiest anchorage spots in the Abacos, Great Guana Cay boasts picturesque beaches and great fishing. The small island has some big-name restaurants— hotspots Nippers and Grabbers will provide some of the most fun you’ll have on your trip.
Day 3: Green Turtle Cay
Historic Green Turtle Cay is famous for its shops, restaurants, and scenic sites. The quaint town, New Plymouth, was a former haven for Brits fleeing the US after the Revolutionary War. The New England–influenced architecture lining the streets shows off the historic roots.
Day 4: Treasure Cay
Developed in the ‘50s as a resort town, Treasure Cay has one of the most beautiful beaches in all the Bahamas. Photos do it no justice. For resort-style amenities, stay at the Treasure Cay Marina.
Day 5: Hope Town
Hope Town is best known for its iconic lighthouse on Elbow Cay. It began as another refuge after the Revolutionary War. Hope Town was settled by Wyannie Malone, a widow from South Carolina who traveled with her four children for safe refuge after the American Revolution. Explore the town’s gift shops, restaurants, and historic homes.
Day 6: Tahiti Beach
The picturesque Tahiti beach is also located on Elbow Cay. The beach is only accessible by foot, bike or boat. You’ll find a stretch of secluded beach and a seemingly endless sandbar will help pass the day. Search for seashells or try your hand snorkeling.
Day 7: Little Harbour
In 1951, Randolph Johnson, his wife Margot and their three sons settled on the white sandy beaches. Eventually, the family began the first bronze foundry in the country. Many Johnsons and their relatives are still in the area. Treat yourself to a romp at Pete’s Pub, a cruiser favorite.
Fun fact: Pete’s Pub was founded by Randolph’s son Peter.
What did we miss in the Abacos? Where do you cruise? Let us know in the comments.
At Governor’s Harbour, Eleuthera, from March 29th to April 2nd, the annual All That Jazz festival will bring together jazz artists from across The Bahamas. They will be joined by prestigious international artists in a series of concerts and events in Governor’s Harbour and the surrounding area. All profits from the event will go to support the Haynes Library downtown (facebook.com/hayneslibraryeleuthera) in its mission to promote literacy and research for the residents of Eleuthera. For details and tickets visit the jazz festival website at eleutheraallthatjazz.com.
Preacher’s Cave
The Devil’s Backbone is a sprawling, jagged reef system spread along the northern shore of Eleuthera. Extending from close to shore well into the Atlantic, it links two of the premier destinations in the area—Spanish Wells in the west and Harbour Island off the northeast corner of Eleuthera. On shore along this route lies an important site in the history of Eleuthera and The Bahamas—Preacher’s Cave.
Participants from the Resorts World Bimini Wahoo Tournament, photo credit: Resortsworldoceansports.com
Da Vine wine merchants on Harbour Island, Photo credit: Rex Noel
Even rudimentary aids help cruisers safely navigate channels.Photo credit: Rex Noel
In 1647, a group of Christians seeking new lands and religious freedom from Bermuda shipwrecked on the Devil’s Backbone reef and came ashore. Led by William Sayles, the shipwrecked sailors made their way to safety and took refuge in a cave. They used a large rock, now known as Pulpit Rock, as their altar and are said to have held church services here for 100 years to commemorate their deliverance from the reef. These were the first Europeans to settle in The Bahamas, and their descendants still make up much of the population of Spanish Wells, Eleuthera and Harbour Island. What became known as Preacher’s Cave is also an important window into the pre-European history of the islands. Archeological excavations have identified a number of Lucayan grave sites here, as well as evidence of everyday life in the period ranging from the 8th to 17th centuries. Genetic links have been found between these graves and current residents of Spanish Wells.
The Devil’s Backbone route offers good water and is transited daily by the high-speed ferry Bo Hengy III, but it is a convoluted passage strewn with shallow coral heads. Grass beds make it difficult to read the deep water, and some of the passages between reef patches are quite narrow. Any cloud cover, a poor sun angle or breaking waves from a northerly swell will obscure the passage, and swirling currents may push you off line making it extremely dangerous. Only those cruisers with extensive experience reading the water should attempt this passage and then only in perfect conditions.
If you don’t want to risk your own boat, the high-speed ferry runs every day from Spanish Wells to Harbour Island in the morning and returns in the afternoon. It is quite an experience to watch from the top deck as the ferry hits speeds of up to 30 knots with reefs clearly visible just off her beam. If you do want to take your own boat, there are a number of experienced pilots available in Spanish Wells. Try hailing “Little Woody”, “A1 Broadshad” or “Bandit” on VHF 16, or inquire locally for other options. The pilot fee generally starts at $100 one way.
Fishing tournament schedule
Many tournaments are held in The Bahamas in the winter months. While the following is certainly not a complete list, it gives some idea of the possibilities.
• February 1-5: Resorts World Bimini Wahoo Tournament, North Bimini. Contact eventinfo@resortsworldoceansports.com or visit resortsworldoceansports.com.
• February 5-7: Hawk’s Nest Annual Wahoo Championship. Contact info@hawks-nest.com or visit hawks-nest.com.
• February 9-11: Sea Spray Abaco Challenge; seasprayabacochallenge.com
• March 26-29: Hawk’s Nest 6th Annual Hang ‘Em High Tournament; hawks-nest.com
Navigation update
In mid-November, a cruising boat reported surprisingly shallow water depths in the passage from Spanish Cay south to Green Turtle Cay. Depths of 6-7 feet were reported in an area open to ocean waters and charted at 12-15 feet. There was visual evidence of new sand washed in from the cut. This is probably not a widespread problem but may occur in isolated spots throughout the Abacos and Exumas after Hurricane Matthew.
Spanish Wells Yacht Haven has completed their major two-year-long renovation. New docks are in place with power and reverse osmosis water, a new swimming pool, laundry, and showers. A new restaurant, Wreckers, opened in April. Marina management also reported that some dredging was done in their entrance channel area providing improved access to their slips.
Chub Cay Marina in The Berry Islands remained closed at press time due to damage from Hurricane Matthew. The resort itself and many private homes were also extensively damaged. Repairs are underway but the specialized contractors needed for the marina infrastructure are in short supply at this time. In the northern Berrys, Great Harbor Cay Marina fared much better. Despite some land-side damage, the marina is in full operation and the community is recovering quickly.
By Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017
Just 135 miles off the coast of Florida, due east of Grand Bahama Island is unsung, oft overlooked Abaco—the northern tip of The Bahamas. The 780-square-mile cruising ground boasts long stretches of unspoiled beach, clear turquoise water, quaint villages, good provisioning, professional marine services, friendly locals, great snorkeling, a wide range of eateries, and predictable 5- to 20-knot trade winds. Little Abaco and Great Abaco Islands—from Crown Haven to Hole in the Wall—form a 120-mile arc that acts as the “mainland” for an outer archipelago of small reef-protected “cays” that dot the Sea of Abaco.
Abaco seems to exist in a time warp. Despite its proximity to the United States, none of the hustle and bustle of the more populated Bahamian Islands has crept northward. That is not an accident. Most Abaconians are aggressively anti-development and determined to preserve this unique and special place. Each of the Abaco islands still has its own distinct persona—many families, descendants of the Loyalists who fled the United States during and after the American Revolution, have called these islands home for well over 200 years. Some of the villages are quaint and charmingly gentrified, others a little less prosperous, but all are well tended with at least one water-view, aboveground cemetery. The surnames on those headstones are the same names on today’s shops, ferries, boatyards, and services.
The jumping-off point for a loop cruise of the Abaco archipelago is centrally located in Marsh Harbour, the third-largest city in The Bahamas. Its protected, deep water has made it the main supply depot for the islands and the home for most of the ferries, yacht charter companies, and a tiny but international airport. The Conch Inn Marina, with pool and restaurant, hosts the Moorings/Sunsail base. Within walking distance, a new Maxwell Supermarket has significantly raised the provisioning bar.
On Da Beach sits on a dune over looking Elbow Cay beach. Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
Lubbers’ Landing, a colorful Caribbean-style spot.
Freshly caught Bahamian lobster.
Enjoy some grub at Cap’n Jack’s. Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
A colorful sign for “Yellow Bird.” Photo: Beth Adams-Smith
Tahiti Beach is your own deserted island to enjoy a sunny lunch. Photo: John Lambert
An easy sail from Marsh Harbour, Lubbers Quarters Cay is a small seven-acre island that is home to funky Cracker P’s beach shack. At the head of a 200-foot dock lined with philosophical “Burma Shave”-style signs, Cracker P’s offers lots to do—from a closet full of board games to the equipment for volleyball, bocce, croquet, horseshoes, badminton, ping-pong, dominoes, and darts. Climb the steps up and over the 40-foot sand dunes to a large sweep of pristine beach, or hike the lush estate amid sapodilla (planted by the original Cracker P), mahogany, tamarind, and mangroves as well as wild orchids, bromeliads and hibiscus.
Little Harbour
The southernmost stop on an Abaco cruise, Little Harbour’s entrance—marked by pairs of red and green “found object” markers—opens into a harbor that’s protected nearly 360 degrees. Famous Pete’s Pub, Gallery and Foundry sits at the head of the harbor and rents moorings, serves casual fare in an open-air palapa, and presides over an atelier. Descendants of sculptor Randolph Johnston continue to cast bronze sculptures using a 5,000-year-old lost-wax process. Visit the Johnston Family Gallery and ask about a tour of the foundry. After a swim off the beach on the harbor’s eastern side, or off the mile-and-a-half stretch of white sand on the ocean side, join the regulars at the bar fashioned from pieces of Langosta, the old sailing vessel that carried the Johnston family to Little Harbour in the early 1950s.
Elbow Cay (Hope Town)
Founded in 1785 by Loyalists, Hope Town’s 120-foot red and white candy-cane lighthouse, protected harbor and picturesque ambience make it the poster child for the Abaco archipelago. Three marinas offer transient dockage on the harbor’s west side. The transplanted New England village is a dinghy ride across the harbor and vaunts lovingly restored, brightly colored structures—house shops, private homes, galleries, and bed-and-breakfasts drip with Bougainvillea and are edged with white picket fences. The narrow sidewalk-like streets are designed for walkers and golf carts, and public entrances lead to a sweep of gorgeous, pink-powder ocean beach protected by a live coral reef just 30 feet offshore. The compelling Wyannie Malone Historical Museum is worth a stop. Its exhibits reveal the history of the village and larger archipelago. Among them are artifacts collected by infamous shipwreckers. Hope Town owes some of its early affluence to a group who enticed boats with false signal lights that led them to founder on the reef; they would then salvage the cargo. The island of Elbow Cay is a quarter-mile wide at its beamiest point and six miles from stem to stern.
Man-O-War Cay
One of the strongholds of Abaco tradition, most of the Man-O-War families are part of the original immigration. They became boat builders and shipwrights, and today Albury Brothers’ “Deep-V” runabouts have a passionate following that extends far beyond The Bahamas. There are several options for parts, boat supplies and repairs: Man-O-War Marina has slips and moorings; Edwin’s Boat Yard offers two full-service facilities boasting an extensive marine parts inventory; Man-O-War Hardware is a gold mine for cruisers. The village has two roads that parallel the harbor so it’s easy to make a long loop and see everything in an hour or so including three eateries and The Sail Shop’s hand-made duffel bags, hats and jackets. Two well-supplied groceries offer everything but alcohol: Man-O-War Cay is a “dry” island.
Great Guana Cay
Famed Nipper’s Beach Bar & Grill put Great Guana Cay on the map. Right on the ocean dunes, it sports picnic tables, chairs and multi-level decks painted every color of the rainbow along with a shallow two-level pool designed mostly for the pool bar. The weekly pig roast is a big attraction accompanied by a powerful orange concoction. Despite Great Guana’s five-mile-wide, untouched ocean beach, the settlement is still delightfully small—a good part of the island wants it to stay that way. Pick up a mooring in Fishers Bay and dinghy ashore, or head over to upscale Orchid Bay Marina and Resort for a pampered experience.
Treasure Cay
One of the few big yacht options in Abaco, the 150-slip Treasure Cay Marina and Hotel houses a pool, 18-hole golf course, restaurants, 100-room hotel, rental villas and condos, and tennis courts. Its gorgeous three-mile arc of powder-sand beach dazzles and is well worth a visit. A popular bar is dockside and a low-key, upmarket restaurant overlooks the pool and harbor. Abaco Ceramics’ studio sells its coveted wares in shops all over The Bahamas.
Green Turtle Cay
The northernmost destination for Abaco-centric cruises is Green Turtle Cay, which requires a short outside passage around Whale Cay. When the ocean is raging, this passage is not recommended; the Cruiser’s Net (Channel 68, at 08:15AM) gives up-to-date weather reports. Green Turtle is home to three harbors: Settlement (small boats only), White Sound and Black Sound. The latter is the closest viable anchorage to the historic village of New Plymouth. A good way to see the whole cay is to join the locals and rent a golf cart. The history of Green Turtle is chronicled in the Albert Lowe Museum and the adjacent Memorial Sculpture Garden. White Sound features the quietly elegant Green Turtle Club and Marina with a pool high above the harbor, cottage accommodations and an old Bahamian-style fine-dining restaurant that serves three meals a day. Across the harbor, Bluff House Yacht Club and Marina’s Ipe (Brazilian teak) docks are filled with big sport-fish boats whose owners enjoy the facility’s two pools, two restaurants and first-class amenities. Cruising the Abacos is viable at most any time of year with the unique culture, gin-clear water and spectacular beaches. But the best weather seems to be March through May; it’s about the same temperature as the Palm Beach area of Florida.
