Tag: Abacos

The Out Islands

The Out Islands are incredibly remote

Some found this out the hard way.

Wealthy would-be-festival-goers who were duped by the infamous Fyre Festival—a botched music festival that was planned for a private island paradise in the Exumas—found little sympathy outside their peer group when the Fyre fraud was finally revealed.

Simply put, the thought of 10,000 people flying into Exuma International Airport on an air caravan of Cessna planes over the course of one weekend is laughable. This airport only accommodates an average of 5,000 visitors each month. The waiting area is so small that on a normal busy day, visitors opt to wait across the road at Kermit’s Airport Lounge, a small bar and restaurant with picnic-style outdoor seating and an air-conditioned restaurant interior.

Lessons Learned

In their misfortune, however, are important lessons to learn about traveling to the Out Islands of The Bahamas. With a little insider’s knowledge about the Out Islands, travelers will know what to expect.

The term “Out Islands” refers to the group of islands in The Bahamas located outside of the largest cities: Nassau on New Providence and Freeport on Grand Bahama, known as the second city. The Out Islands are more remote, less developed and less densely populated. Bahamians refer to the Out Islands as the Family Islands, which is based on the premise that while the center of politics and government is in Nassau, The Bahamas is a family of islands.

The Exumas, a small archipelago known for its plethora of islands and secluded beaches, turquoise sandbanks and aquamarine seas, is the most popular Out Island in terms of
tourist arrivals. Some 60,000 visitors travel to its shores by air and sea annually. They enjoy marine attractions, such as underwater caves, shark encounters and floating beaches that emerge at low tide as sandbars suspended in the middle of the sea.

Boaters Love the Out Islands

For most boaters, the primary appeal of The Bahamas is the Out Islands. The ten major seaports in the Out Islands welcomed over 91,000 visitors in 2018. This compares to just
12,635 sea arrivals in Nassau for the same year. Bimini and the Abacos are the top two Out Islands in terms of visitor arrivals by sea: Bimini, unsurprisingly, as it is the closest
Bahamian island to the U.S. with a convenient first port of entry. The Abacos, of course,  is considered the boating capital of The Bahamas.

The Abacos has a number of barrier islands that protect mainland Great Abaco from the ferocious Atlantic. The protected marine highway between the barrier islands and Great Abaco, the Sea of Abaco, is a central hub for boating. Virtually every exit survey in The Bahamas, sites visiting beaches as the number one activity. Abaco is no exception; however, fishing and island-hopping are two dominant activities also enjoyed by boaters in the Abacos, where there are vibrant boating communities on Treasure Cay, Marsh Harbour, Green Turtle Cay, and other neighboring islands.

You’re not in the city

Traffic in the Out Islands is a slow-driving car that you can’t immediately overtake. In other words, there is no traffic in the Out Islands. Basically, every Out Island has a main artery road, usually named the Queens Highway, that runs north to south across the length of the island. The cars are sparse and it’s difficult to get lost.

You’ll know when you’ve reached a settlement because virgin land gives way to roadside communities. Compare to Nassau’s primetime, bumper-to-bumper traffic. Without GPS, you are likely to get lost in Nassau. Nassau has a distinct city character. The Out Islands are remote enclaves where you can retreat from crowds, busyness, city lights, and noise.

Nassau has an international airport with amenities travelers expect: restaurants, bars, private lounges, shopping, and other creature comforts. Airports in the Out Islands, even the international ones, are little dives. But they are clean, safe and their technical aviation systems are top notch. However, consumer infrastructure is very limited. If you are delayed in an Out Island airport, it is likely to be frustrating because the facilities are not designed for comfort.

Most of the Out Islands are not a single island

The Bahamas is one nation, but it is a country with 700 islands and more than 2,000 rocks and cays.  The sheer number of islands is overwhelming. That’s why only 16 main islands, including Andros, Cat Island, Long Island, and Inagua, are marketed as tourist destinations. The 16 islands are main population centers with infrastructure like airports and seaports.

While the island names and groupings create simplicity, it’s important to remember that there is always more than what meets the eye. Eleuthera, for example, is one island. However, it also refers to a trio of islands including Harbour Island and Spanish Wells. The water taxi between the Three Islands Ferry Dock in North Eleuthera and Harbour Island takes only 10 minutes; however, the run from Valentine’s Marina in Harbour Island to Cape Santa Maria Marina in South Eleuthera is more than 100 miles on the ocean side and 80 miles on the banks.

Exuma (singular) usually refers to mainland Great Exuma, the largest island in the Exuma chain, but the Exumas (plural), more correctly identifies the 365 islands located in the chain. Some of them are private islands with private airstrips and many are uninhabited. All of them are comparatively rural and have light-touch development. They are charming because of their safe, close-knit communities with people living a more independent, carefree lifestyle than in the capital.

Almost all of the Out Islands, even when their names suggest one island, are themselves a cluster of islands, including Bimini, the Berry Islands, Andros, Inagua, and Acklins and Crooked Island.

By Noelle Nicolls, Southern Boating April 2019

Island Hopping in the Abacos

An Abacos Island Hop

One of the best things about traveling in The Bahamas (and there are many), is the sheer number of islands. The archipelago contains over 700 islands, all unique, beautiful, and cruise-able in their own right. But it’s the Abacos, a 120-mile sprawling island chain that stands out as a cruiser’s paradise.

Getting to the Abacos is a relatively quick trip by boat. It’s even quicker if you fly and charter or rent. Either way, the Abacos are best enjoyed over several days with family and friends.

Our Abacos Itinerary:

Man-O-War Cay
Day 1:  Man-O-War Cay 

Man-O-War is famous for its boat building history and Albury Brother’s Boats still produces some boats there today. The island is very laid-back, even by Bahamian standards, with a population of about 350 locals. There is also a public dock and a few small shops new Man-O-War Marina.

 

Day 2: Great Guana Cay
Nippers and her sister Grabbers will provide you with ample entertainment and spirits.

Arguably one of the prettiest anchorage spots in the Abacos, Great Guana Cay boasts picturesque beaches and great fishing. The small island has some big-name restaurants— hotspots Nippers and Grabbers will provide some of the most fun you’ll have on your trip.

 

Day 3: Green Turtle Cay

Historic Green Turtle Cay is famous for its shops, restaurants, and scenic sites. The quaint town, New Plymouth, was a former haven for Brits fleeing the US after the Revolutionary War. The New England–influenced architecture lining the streets shows off the historic roots.

Day 4: Treasure Cay

Developed in the ‘50s as a resort town, Treasure Cay has one of the most beautiful beaches in all the Bahamas. Photos do it no justice. For resort-style amenities, stay at the Treasure Cay Marina.

Day 5: Hope Town

Hope Town is best known for its iconic lighthouse on Elbow Cay. It began as another refuge after the Revolutionary War. Hope Town was settled by Wyannie Malone, a widow from South Carolina who traveled with her four children for safe refuge after the American Revolution. Explore the town’s gift shops, restaurants, and historic homes.

Day 6: Tahiti Beach

The picturesque Tahiti beach is also located on Elbow Cay. The beach is only accessible by foot, bike or boat. You’ll find a stretch of secluded beach and a seemingly endless sandbar will help pass the day. Search for seashells or try your hand snorkeling.

Day 7: Little Harbour

In 1951, Randolph Johnson, his wife Margot and their three sons settled on the white sandy beaches. Eventually, the family began the first bronze foundry in the country. Many Johnsons and their relatives are still in the area.  Treat yourself to a romp at Pete’s Pub, a cruiser favorite.

Fun fact: Pete’s Pub was founded by Randolph’s son Peter. 

 What did we miss in the Abacos? Where do you cruise? Let us know in the comments.

Chartering in The Bahamas

Half of the boaters who walk the planks at Boat Harbour Marina in Marsh Harbour, Abaco, to set sail for Guana Cay, Mano-War or any number of islands in the Abacos with Cruise Abaco, do not own a boat or yacht. The other half who may have their own boats choose to go chartering in The Bahamas because their craft is not suited to cross the Gulf Stream.

It might seem counter-intuitive that many active boaters are not boat owners, but Mark Gonsalves, the owner of charter company Cruise Abaco, says the Abacos are filled with many such enthusiasts and that they are the bread and butter of the charter industry. They don’t fly down on private planes to meet up with their mega yachts. They can’t take three months off to spend in Treasure Cay or Hope Town, and not just because they don’t own a second home in The Bahamas as yet. To travel with their families, believe it or not, some still need to take blocked vacation time.

By no means, however, are these cruisers novices on the water. They’ve chartered around the world, whether in the Chesapeake Bay or across Europe, says Gonsalves. They know boats, and they crave a destination that has the best and most modern boats the industry has to offer, one with modern facilities, happening beach bars, upscale restaurants, barefoot-style island food joints, events, and a diverse range of boating
activities. “Everyone wants the latest and greatest. They have dreams of owning their
own boats and they island hop looking at the different marinas. They charter a boat that
they might want to own one day. They are looking for everything the area has to offer,”
says Gonsalves.

Cue the Abacos: the boating capital of The Bahamas, where there is actually no need to bring your own boat. Whatever the reason, whether boaters want the convenience
of leaving their boat behind, or simply don’t own a boat, the Abacos not only has the highest concentration of marinas in The Bahamas, it undoubtedly has the highest concentration of charter boat availability.

Two of the largest international yacht charter companies—Moorings and Sunsail—operate in the Abacos, along with dozens of Bahamian charter companies. There is an abundance
of boats, from small 20-foot day rentals to large catamarans, sailboats and power yachts that are 60-foot plus, and they are all available for captained and barefoot charters. “There are more boats in the Abacos for charter availability because the demand is here. It is not [here only for the] summer but it is here year round, especially in the catamaran areas,” said Stephen Kappler, president of the Association of Bahamas Marinas.

Charter companies often design pre-planned cruise itineraries to make it easy for their clients. A seven-day cruise might include snorkeling in the Sandy Cay Park or the Fowl
Cay Underwater Park; beaching at Tahiti Beach; kayaking around the Tilloo Cay Banks; exploring local settlements like Hope Town and Green Turtle Cay; scuba diving on the Great Abaco Barrier Reef; fly fishing on the flats or deep sea fishing on the ocean side; and of course, bar hopping at Nippers on Guana Cay, the Tipsy Seagull Dockside Pub on Treasure Cay or Cracker P’s Bar and Grill on Lubbers Quarters Cay. On a charter itinerary, boaters with powerboat experience could seize the opportunity to learn how to sail on a single hull vessel or a catamaran.

The Sea of Abaco, a 62-mile saltwater lagoon, is where all of the activity takes place. This marine highway is sandwiched by mainland Great Abaco to the west and a chain of barrier islands running parallel to the east, and it’s easily accessible from the U.S. The Marsh Harbour airport has direct flights from six cities in Florida, including Tampa, West Palm Beach, Orlando, and Jacksonville and direct flights from Atlanta. Treasure Cay has direct flights from Fort Lauderdale, so the proximity factor makes it particularly attractive to boaters.

The boating industry of Abaco has also proven to be a feeder for the second home industry. Kappler, who is also president of the Treasure Cay Property Owners Association,
a residential community of 1,300 homes, says their research shows the average homeowner purchased a property in Treasure Cay after their fourth visit to the Abacos.

Because the Abacos is a unique multi-island destination with a vibrant boating culture and diverse activities, it will always be a draw for boaters who have that insatiable love
for the pristine waters only found in The Bahamas.

Navigational Tips for Chartering in The Bahamas:

Moorings at Lubbers Quarters Cay are free to use for charter companies on a first
come, first serve basis during full moon parties at Cracker P’s Bar and Grill.

When entering the White Sound channel toward Green Turtle Cay, boats that draw
more than six feet should avoid entering the channel at low tide.

The Little Harbour channel leading to the popular Pete’s Pub has gotten slightly
deeper. Previously marked for boats with 6 feet of draft, the sandy bottom channel at high tide can accommodate boats that draw up to 6’5″. Pete’s Pub operates 13
moorings in the area.

There is a hard rock bottom in front of the popular Staniel Cay Yacht Club that is reliably marked on charts. However, there have been several sailboats running aground. Boaters should follow their charts and pay close attention when entering this marina.

By Noelle Nicolls, Southern Boating February 2018

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THE BAHAMA OUT ISLANDS PROMOTION BOARD

Horizon Rendezvous 2017

Thirty and Thriving

Horizon Yachts celebrates its 30th anniversary with a rendezvous that will long be remembered.

Most people celebrate birthdays in grand style, but I’ve always felt that anniversaries—especially ones of notable length—deserve to be celebrated with lavish affairs. Based on the extravagant and well-attended Bahamas Bash Owner Rendezvous held from April 26th to May 1st, which also commemorated the company’s 30th anniversary, Horizon Yachts is of the same mind-set.

Horizon Yachts’ four-day 2017 Owner Rendezvous in the Abacos, Bahamas, at the beautiful Abaco Beach Resort in Marsh Harbour, was the luxury yacht builder’s sixth such gathering and marked the largest turnout to date. More than 200 owners and guests attended, with 27 yachts ranging in size from 50 to 120 feet. The company’s first rendezvous was also held in the Abacos, so it was a joyous return to this stunning location for Horizon yacht owners and guests, some of whom traveled from as far away as Australia.

The festivities kicked off with a welcome floating “docktail” reception on the Horizon RP120 followed by hors d’oeuvres at the Promenade on shore, and dinner and dancing in the Resort Marquee. The next day, late-night revelers were able to sleep in before a private ferry took the group to Nippers Beach Bar & Grill for a pig roast, beach fun and the restaurant’s popular drinks. The rest of the itinerary was packed with activities on land—golf cart excursions, games, happy hours, and dock parties—and in the gin-clear Bahamian waters for fishing, snorkeling and sunning. Sunday’s Yacht Hop came with a twist—a “decorate your aft deck” contest that really brought out the owners’ creative sides.

As guests “hopped” from one yacht to another enjoying cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, they were greeted with “President Trump” as a stowaway; Ginger and the whole Gilligan’s Island gang; disco fever at Studio 54, and much more. The Horizon USA team got into the spirit, too, transforming into mermaids, Captain Jack Sparrow, pirate wenches, and other island-inspired characters.

The evening’s farewell Bahamian beach bash included prizes for the best decorated aft deck and a Junkanoo band for an authentic island-style celebration. “Augmented by The Bahamas’ renowned island hospitality, delicious food and gorgeous weather, the Horizon Yachts Global Owner Rendezvous was a great success,” said Horizon Yachts CEO John Lu, who also attended the event. “But more importantly, this event emphasized that having fun in beautiful places and with wonderful people is truly what makes boating so enjoyable.”

Just like all Horizon rendezvous, new relationships were formed between owners, and partying ended much too soon. Veteran yacht photographer Jim Raycroft and videographer Suki Finnerty took advantage of the famous Bahamian blue water as a backdrop to capture the memories, including a Horizon powercat raft-up and a promotional shoot of the new RP120 superyacht, the recently launched E98 motoryacht Do It Now and E88 motoryacht.

horizonyachtusa.com

L.N. Evans Southern Boating August 2017

Cruising Man-O-War Cay

Like a Disneyland of The Bahamas, the Sea of Abaco is a perfect playground for boaters, which may be why I return periodically to eat fresh conch, stroll along white beaches and catch up with friendly locals. 

The sheltered waters of this boomerang-shaped swath of turquoise-colored water are roughly 60 miles long and five miles wide so it’s easy to visit in a short time. Only 200 miles from the southeast coast of Florida, the sea is a perfect weeklong boating getaway although some cruisers get lost in its comfortable ebb and flow for many seasons. Recently, I hopped a 45-minute flight from Ft. Lauderdale to Marsh Harbour to join friends aboard for a leisurely few days visiting two of its unique gems, Man-O-War Cay and Hope Town on Elbow Cay.

Strong trade winds sometimes cook up a local weather condition known as “The Rage” when winds gust into the 40s and the Atlantic serves up angry waves on the outside that make me grateful to be in the flat waters that rarely hold boaters captive in their slips. So, although we had a bit of crusty weather, we set sail east, from Marsh Harbour to Man-O-War Cay, only about 5 nautical miles away.

Man-O-War is a 2 ½-mile-long spit of sand where the community is small and tightly knit. A few last names like Albury, Archer and Lowe repeat on local business signs as these families have been here since the settlement was established in the 1700s. Everyone knows one another by first name so when you’re looking for baked goods you might get a response like, “Sarah used to bake out of her house but she’s retired now. Try Jane in the yellow house by the marina.”

Entering Man-O-War Cay involves a bit of threading the needle. The entrance is only about one-catamaran wide and shallow. Once inside, it’s as if you’ve stepped through the looking glass because this township has barely changed in the past hundred years. We caught a $20 mooring and decided to stretch our legs with a hike to the northernmost tip where the calm waters of the sea and the rougher waves of the Atlantic commingle and result in water coloration you’ll be hard-pressed to find anywhere else.

Man-O-War Cay has been known for its boatbuilding expertise since the 1880s. You can still stroll along the waterfront and see boats like the popular Abaco dinghies in mid-build at Albury Brothers Boatyard. A must-see is Albury’s Sail Shop where handmade canvas bags have been sewn for three generations. Each of the colorful creations is uniquely Sojer (the name of the local residents) and they make great gifts, so I always stock up.

Water, ice, groceries, and the Dock ‘n Dine restaurant are all on the waterfront but don’t expect much to happen on a Sunday when everyone is in one of the dozen or so churches of just about every denomination. This island is dry, which means you can’t buy alcohol, so we opened a bottle of wine and dined aboard in perfect bliss so long as we kept the bug spray handy as the surrounding mangroves are thick with mosquitos. The protected anchorage was possibly the best sleep I’d had in months.

Word of incoming heavy weather got us up early the next morning to motor to Hope Town, almost literally around the corner, just four miles or 40 minutes away if you dawdle. Tucked in a tiny and well-protected harbor on Elbow Cay, Hope Town is probably where Sherwin Williams sends all the crazy colors of house paint they don’t sell anywhere else.

Settled in 1785 by British Loyalists (loyal to the crown of England after the U.S. War of Independence), Hope Town boasts many fine examples of colonial architecture. The two-street waterfront is chock-a-block with houses showing off fun design details including carved lace-like trim and pineapple motif shutters. But the centerpiece of Hope Town’s skyline is its 130-year-old candy stripe lighthouse, which is one of only two manned, kerosene-fueled lighthouses still in operation in the world. A trek up the 200-plus steps inside is a must if only for the fantastic views from the top.

The Hope Town Harbor entry is well marked if a bit tricky. A shallow channel leads from the sea into the round harbor full of moorings. We picked up another $20 mooring and dinghied to Cap’n Jack’s on the waterfront for breakfast. When a downpour started, it seemed the perfect time to duck into the two-story Wyannie Malone Historical Museum dedicated to documenting the lives of fishermen, pirates and the early settlers. We learned a bit of history as we waited out the rain and chatted with the curator.

The sun popped out and wanting to stretch our legs, we took a hike south to Tahiti Beach. This half-moon-shaped white sand beach transports you from one paradise in the East to another somewhere deep in the South Pacific. Along the way, direction poles were frequent but even though we were on an island, we managed to get lost if ever so briefly. Having underestimated the length of our walk (about seven miles round trip) we fortified ourselves with unbeatable conch salad and a Kalik (local) beer at the Abaco Inn Resort where their taglines say it all, “Tan your Toes in the Abacos.”

Back in the harbor, it was time to check in with the real world via email and text. Hope Town Inn and Marina is cruiser friendly offering showers, laundry, and free Wi-Fi, so we stopped in for happy hour and a bit of Web surfing. The docks were full of boats from far-flung destinations and the bar resonated with distinctly Canadian accents.

That night, we made reservations at Firefly Grill and Resort that dispatched a “golf cart bus” to ferry six of us halfway down the same trek we had done earlier. It was shockingly short given how long we had spent on our afternoon slog. The grouper was sublime and the homemade tiramisu was artfully presented. Lit by strings of light bulbs, the dining deck defined the romance that captivates so many cruisers in The Bahamas. The sultry evening renewed my determination to return again soon because Hope Town and Man-O-War Cay just never get old.

— By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016

Best Time to Go

December through March can be chilly with temps in the 60s and 70s while July to September may be sweltering, not to mention right in the middle of hurricane season. Your best bet is April to June and again October to November, although if you do go in October you might want to consider trip insurance. Winds are usually 5-20 knots except when “The Rage” is on.

What to Watch For

Depth! The Sea of Abaco is shallow and punctuated with unexpected (and at times uncharted) coral flats. There are not many coral heads to sneak up on you but the bottom does change even when well away from any island. Beware the no-see-ums especially in Man-O-War.

Anchoring & Mooring

In Hope Town and Man-O-War, your best bet is to pay for a mooring – about $20 per night. Marina’s include Hope Town Inn & Marina, Lighthouse Marina and Man-O-War Marina.

Food & Fuel

Provisioning is excellent in Marsh Harbour in a large grocery store, which is walking distance from most of the marinas. Hope Town has a convenience store right at the docks near Cap’n Jack’s. Man-O-War can be a provisioning challenge, so bring what you need with you, especially any alcohol. Fuel is available at both locations.

The gist on George Town, Great Exuma

There are two full-service outboard shops in George Town: Minns Water Sports and Brown’s Marine. Minns is a Yamaha dealer and Brown’s sells Suzukis. Brown’s can handle almost any size outboard boat with engines up to 350 horsepower. These outboard shops are especially important because they provide excellent services so far south of Nassau.
February Point just opened a new restaurant, the Rusty Anchor, which I highly recommend. The new building has a lovely view across the flats to Crab Cay, the food is upscale and the staff is as cheerful and efficient as anywhere in The Bahamas. Moor your dinghy at their new marina and walk a few yards to the restaurant. februarypoint.com
One of the jewels of George Town is Diane Minns’ Sandpiper Arts & Crafts, a store with quality items for the whole family. When you are done shopping, step next door to the Driftwood Café or across the street to Peace and Plenty for lunch. You old timers may like to know that Lerman Rolle, “The Doctor of Libation,” still mans the bar at Peace and Plenty.
Late April is when George Town becomes really enjoyable. This year the National Family Island Regatta is April 26-30. The regatta is great fun and one of the most photogenic events anywhere. After the regatta most of the cruisers start to leave—some to head to the Caribbean for hurricane season and others head back to the U.S. For those who want peace and quiet, this is the beginning of the best cruising in Exuma and a great time to run out and back to the southeast islands. Great Exuma remains one of the very best locations for flats fishing, and there are excellent locations to fish in almost any weather.

Turtle sex

April is the beginning of the mating and nesting season for sea turtles in The Bahamas. Please keep a sharp look out as you travel along the ocean shores of all the islands. Loggerheads are especially vulnerable to boat strikes as they congregate to mate off their nesting beaches. Sea turtle populations have grown slowly since the 2009 ban on sea turtle harvest in The Bahamas, so adult breeders are especially important if this trend is to continue.

Abacos
A reminder for all birders and wildlife enthusiasts in The Bahamas, especially the Abacos, the website, rollingharbour.com, continues to publish amazing photos and general information about birds and other wildlife around the Delphi Club on Abaco.

Farmer’s Cay

According to Roosevelt Nixon—owner/operator of the Farmer’s Cay Yacht Club & Marina—all mooring chains and lines have been replaced with new stainless steel chains and 3/4-inch lines, and the dock and seaport has been re-planked including new braces. That is very good news for those who enjoy Farmer’s Cay and want to moor safely at the dock or in the main channel with easy access to the Club—the restaurant is open from 9AM to 12AM. Roosevelt is always helpful and very proud of his cay. Call (242) 355-4017.

Underwater art

One of the not-so-perfectly-kept secrets of the Exumas is the underwater piano and mermaid sculpture off Rudder Cut Cay. Sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor’s The Musician (commissioned by renowned illusionist David Copperfield) sits in about 12 feet of water and is easily reached by snorkelers. The location of the sculpture is now published in the latest edition of the Explorer Chartbook. Taylor has created stunning underwater sculptures in a range of locations, including his work in the Coral Reef Sculpture Garden in southwest New Providence. underwatersculpture.com

Mariah Harbour Land and Sea Park

The boundaries of Mariah Harbour Cay Land and Sea Park have finally been set. The park includes the southern part of Elizabeth Harbour from the south end of Stocking Island to Pigeon Cay (north of Little Exuma) and includes several important land areas. The park is known to include several endangered species such as piping plovers, iguanas, sea turtles, and a rich variety of other wildlife. Scientific surveys have also shown that this area is an unusually healthy nursery for crawfish. Mariah Harbour Park is a major addition to the national park system and ensures that Elizabeth Harbour and the surrounding waters are protected.
Outreach efforts to engage stakeholders are underway and will be part of the process to determine an official management plan for the park. The Bahamas is among the world leaders in marine conservation, and hopes are that all visitors and boating friends obey Bahamian fisheries regulations and respect the extraordinary environment.
Keep abreast of the latest fishing regulations for your location in the U.S. and Bahamian waters with the very useful app for smart phones fishrulesapp.com. This app is updated regularly and also has excellent fish identification guides.

 

by Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine April 2016

Tips for Anchoring in The Bahamas

An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.

No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas. 

Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas. 

1.  Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Bimini to clear Customs.

The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.

2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.

Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.

3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.

Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.

4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.

Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.

5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.

Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.

Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas

6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.

From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.

7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.

This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.

8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.

The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.

9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.

Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.

10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.

We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.

11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.

Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.

12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.

Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.

Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:

Anchors & Equipment
During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.

The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.

You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.

Finding the Right Spot
Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.

Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot.
Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.

By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015

About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.

Additional tips for anchoring.

Go for the grand on Grand Bahama

While the majority of yachtsmen enter The Bahamas through Bimini, Cat Cay or simply clear in at West End and cruise on to the Abacos, Grand Bahama Island is a great place to spend a few days or a whole season—or even to own a second home.

Cruising to Grand Bahama and then on to Moore’s Island and Sandy Point is a wonderful way to enter The Bahamas if you plan to visit north Eleuthera or Nassau-—or cruise from Sandy Point around Hole in the Wall to Schooner Bay, Cherokee and Little Harbour. Coming from Florida, clear Customs at Old Bahama Bay (West End) and stay a while to explore the area. On Sandy Cay, Keith and Linda Cooper now have eco tours for diving, fishing and birding. weefca.com 

If you need work done on your boat, Bradford Marine in Freeport is an excellent, full-service yard and a safe place to leave your boat if you fly home for a while.

In Lucaya, stay at Port Lucaya Marina or the Grand Bahama Yacht Club, where you’ll want to buy fuel as prices are usually the lowest in The Bahamas. portlucayamarina.com; grandbahamayachtclub.com

The Port Lucaya Marketplace has shopping, entertainment and several restaurants. Go to Zorba’s for Bahamian breakfast or lunch, Cappuccino’s for excellent Italian dinners, and Flying Fish for haute cuisine. UNEXSO runs a famous dive operation near the marina and the Dolphin Experience further down the waterway. unexso.com 

Grand Bahama’s three national parks—The Rand Nature Center, the Lucayan National Park, and Peterson Cay—are well worth a visit. Go to the Bahamas National Trust website for more information. bnt.bs

Moore’s Island

Moore’s Island (Mores Island for the locals) does not cater to tourists but is a useful anchorage on your way along the southern edge of the bank or a good stop going north or south across the Bight of Abaco. There is decent holding in grass off Hard Bargain; go into the northern creek if there is a cold front but be sure to check the entrance and the creek by dinghy before venturing in. Two important things you must do when on Moore’s Island: visit Mrs. Jones for some fresh baked bread, and take your boat or your dinghy out to Lily Cay, where the shelling and snorkeling are outstanding—there is always a good chance of spearing a hogfish.

Abaco Park Warden Marcus Davis helps with Sea Turtle Research.

Sandy Point

Sandy Point is one of my favorite anchorages. It’s also a fun place to visit by road from further north in Abaco. Whether you come by land or sea, enjoy a couple of sundowners and a delicious supper at Nancy’s Sea Side Inn (242-366-4120) or the Sunset Bar and Grill (242-699-0249) while watching the sunset light up the sky.

The anchorage is only protected from the east, but if a cold front approaches go up the creek north of the settlement if you draw 5′ or less. Anchor bow or stern, or tie up to the government dock among the fishing boats. The local people will help you find your way into the unmarked creek and help you moor your boat.

Diesel, gas, and free water are available at Lightbourne Marina, where there is a good grocery store. It’s also a great spot to fish and snorkel for conch. While in southern Abaco visit the Abaco National Park, home of the Bahama parrot. Call Marcus Davis, Park Warden for information and a tour; (242) 367-6310.

Back in business

Staniel Cay Airport re-opened to air traffic in mid-November after months of closure for refurbishment that led to a newly paved runway 3,000-foot long and 75-foot wide. Safety concerns prompted the Department of Civil Aviation and the Ministry of Works to close the airport in April 2015.

Navigation notes:

The Grand Lucayan Waterway is still in very good condition. The Sir Charles Hayward Yacht Club (242-727-7245), just inside the southern entrance, has been refurbished and now has a growing youth program and a few slips for visiting yachts. Going all the way through the waterway is lovely, and you can look for property to purchase as you go. The lowest bridge has a 27.3-foot clearance. If you have a draft of 5′ or less, go out through the well-marked Dover Sound channel on the tide—the high tide is about 2 hours later than on the south shore. Proceed up to Mangrove Cay, Great Sale Cay and on to the Abacos. If you are towing a speedboat it is possible to explore Hawksbill Creek and Water Cay. The bonefishing on the north side is as good as anywhere in The Bahamas. The east end of Grand Bahama is seldom visited, and there are no detailed charts of the area. But a shallow draft vessel can get into Deep Water Cay (deepwatercay.com) and go gunkholing in the cays to the southeast with a little help from the local fishermen. The snorkeling and fishing are spectacular.

 

Words and photos by Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine January 2016

George Town’s popular appeal

George Town on Great Exuma is surely the most popular destination in The Bahamas with well over 300 boats in Elizabeth Harbour during much of the winter season. One good reason why George Town is so popular is the spectacularly beautiful harbor with its variety of anchorages that accommodate huge numbers of boats without overcrowding or compromising safety.
The major change to George Town is that in recent year the harbor has a much nicer atmosphere. All the boats are good quality and well-maintained. The cruisers network is efficient and informative, and cruisers are upbeat, friendly and respect each other’s privacy. There is all manner of communal activities including a local regatta, yoga, volleyball, bridge, church services, and dinghy drifts—recently 86 dinghies watched the sunset together. If you don’t find your favorite activity it’s easy to get something started.
The hub of activity is Chat ‘n Chill on Volleyball Beach on Stocking Island. Chat ‘n Chill is still going strong and has excellent grilled food—the ribs are some of the best in The Bahamas. The beach is busy with people of all ages getting to know each other and having a really good time. As in most places things change over the years, but Peace and Plenty, Minns Water Sports, Exuma Markets, Eddy’s Edgewater, and Chat ‘n Chill are well managed and continue to provide excellent facilities and service.
The harbor community—local authorities, citizens, and cruisers—is generally conscious of both enjoying and conserving the environment. There are dinghy moorings on the best snorkeling sites, instructive eco-tours, better garbage and sewage collection, and the town is cleaner. Mariah Harbour Cay and surrounding flats and mangrove creeks are exciting areas for bonefishing and birding. Also, south of the bridge to Little Exuma, miles of flats and creeks invite you to fish and explore.
There are also short destination cruises you can make in your dinghy. Highly recommended is a lovely run down the channel past Rolle Town and Hartswell to the Turquoise Cay boutique hotel. Bring a couple of friends, have a leisurely lunch, and take a swim or go bonefishing on the way back. If you want simpler fare make a run to Cheater’s for traditional Bahamian food. Call (242) 357-0329 or visit turquoisecay.com.

New facilities on New Providence

A prestigious membership in The Club at Palm Cay will open doors throughout the community and grants entry to the broad network of social and sports societies within the community.

Palm Cay, a new residential and marina complex on the southeast shore of New Providence offers a 194-slip marina with plenty of room for long-term and transient vessels from 18′ to 110′ and drawing up to 9′ at low tide. The current dockage rate is $1.75 per foot with a wide range of services including a restaurant, café, courtesy car, and swimming pool. At first glance you’d think that the luxurious development known as Palm Cay was designed only as the ideal vacation destination with an assortment of beach club amenities and huge stretches of white powder-sand beaches, but it is a great place to rest and provision before jumping off to the Exumas or north to Eleuthera. Call (242) 676-8554 or visit palmcay.com.

Courtesy flag legality

Bahamian courtesy flag. Photo: Stephen Connett

Courtesy flags are not just for courtesy; they have a legal meaning. When a vessel enters foreign waters it is required to fly a “Q” flag on the starboard spreader to show that it has just arrived and needs to clear Customs. After the vessel has cleared, the “Q” flag must be removed and replaced with a courtesy flag, which must be flown until the vessel clears out of the country. The courtesy flag signifies that the vessel has cleared Customs and has permission to be in the country. The vessel should also fly its own national ensign when underway and during daylight hours when moored.
The Bahamian courtesy flag has a red field with a white cross and has the national ensign in the canton or upper corner. If a proper courtesy flag is not available, it is better to fly The Bahamas national ensign than none at all. By tradition in the U.S., the New York Yacht Club—as the country’s oldest yacht club—is the authority for flag etiquette on yachts. Many cruisers today do not belong to yacht clubs, so they may prefer to use the etiquette published by the U.S. Power Squadron or another organization. Any owner can also design and fly his own private signal or house flag, which can be fun and add distinction to one’s vessel. According to the Power Squadron, the private signal “should be a unique design and always in good taste.”

Summer Escape to Abacos

[photomosaic ids=”4552,4553,4554″ orderby=”rand”]

Boat owners who have always wanted to cruise the islands of The Bahamas but are reluctant to leave U.S. waters are invited to join Denison Yacht Sales Summer Escape Rendezvous July 15-22. The weeklong adventure will include island hopping in the 120-mile-long chain of islands in the Abacos, festive dinner parties, friendly competitions, and activities for the entire family. Calm, turquoise waters and warm weather make the Abacos a desirable destination for a relaxing getaway. The Denison team will lead the way with professional captains, a traveling mechanic, and an event coordinator. “This is our third year of doing this and will sure to be our best effort yet,” says Bob Denison, President of Denison Yacht Sales. Registration is required and all proceeds benefit Joe DiMaggio Children’s Hospital Foundation. Discounted dockage will be provided at local marinas and resorts. To register visit Abacos2015.com.

NV Charts updates
Region 9.1
NV Charts, a leading provider of charting products for navigation, announces the release of all chart sets, beginning with their popular Bahamas chart sets, in new Atlas-style format. The new format applies to their newly updated chart sets for Region 9.1, Bahamas Northwest, including Bimini and Berry Islands, Nassau to Abaco and Grand Bahama for 2015/2016. Region 9.1 Bahamas Northwest is designed for sailors, power boaters, fishermen, professional mariners, and cruising enthusiasts and includes 7 passage charts, 18 coastal charts, harbor and anchorage pilot book, GPS charted waypoints and approaches, a CD of digital charts (including free navigation software), tide tables, and recommended courses.
The chart set also includes the free NV Charts Mobile App for iOS and Android mobile devices for real-time navigation. The App includes free digital updates for this chart set for 2015/2016. All of the NV Charts Bahamas sets will soon be available in Atlas format. Check nvcharts.com for availability.

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating May 2015

Abacos, Bahamas

A Step Back in Time

Just 135 miles off the coast of Florida, due east of Grand Bahama Island is unsung, oft overlooked Abaco—the northern tip of The Bahamas. The 780-square-mile cruising ground boasts long stretches of unspoiled beach, clear turquoise water, quaint villages, good provisioning, professional marine services, friendly locals, great snorkeling, a wide range of eateries, and predictable 5- to 20-knot trade winds. Little Abaco and Great Abaco Islands—from Crown Haven to Hole in the Wall—form a 120-mile arc that acts as the “mainland” for an outer archipelago of small reef-protected “cays” that dot the Sea of Abaco.

Abaco seems to exist in a time warp. Despite its proximity to the United States, none of the hustle and bustle of the more populated Bahamian Islands has crept northward. That is not an accident. Most Abaconians are aggressively anti-development and determined to preserve this unique and special place. Each of the Abaco islands still has its own distinct persona—many families, descendants of the Loyalists who fled the United States during and after the American Revolution, have called these islands home for well over 200 years. Some of the villages are quaint and charmingly gentrified, others a little less prosperous, but all are well tended with at least one water-view, aboveground cemetery. The surnames on those headstones are the same names on today’s shops, ferries, boatyards, and services.

The jumping-off point for a loop cruise of the Abaco archipelago is centrally located in Marsh Harbour, the third-largest city in The Bahamas. Its protected, deep water has made it the main supply depot for the islands and the home for most of the ferries, yacht charter companies, and a tiny but international airport. The Conch Inn Marina, with pool and restaurant, hosts the Moorings/Sunsail base. Within walking distance, a new Maxwell Supermarket has significantly raised the provisioning bar.

Lubbers Quarters

An easy sail from Marsh Harbour, Lubbers Quarters Cay is a small seven-acre island that is home to funky Cracker P’s beach shack. At the head of a 200-foot dock lined with philosophical “Burma Shave”-style signs, Cracker P’s offers lots to do—from a closet full of board games to the equipment for volleyball, bocce, croquet, horseshoes, badminton, ping-pong, dominoes, and darts. Climb the steps up and over the 40-foot sand dunes to a large sweep of pristine beach, or hike the lush estate amid sapodilla (planted by the original Cracker P), mahogany, tamarind, and mangroves as well as wild orchids, bromeliads and hibiscus.

Little Harbour

The southernmost stop on an Abaco cruise, Little Harbour’s entrance—marked by pairs of red and green “found object” markers—opens into a harbor that’s protected nearly 360 degrees. Famous Pete’s Pub, Gallery and Foundry sits at the head of the harbor and rents moorings, serves casual fare in an open-air palapa, and presides over an atelier. Descendants of sculptor Randolph Johnston continue to cast bronze sculptures using a 5,000-year-old lost-wax process. Visit the Johnston Family Gallery and ask about a tour of the foundry. After a swim off the beach on the harbor’s eastern side, or off the mile-and-a-half stretch of white sand on the ocean side, join the regulars at the bar fashioned from pieces of Langosta, the old sailing vessel that carried the Johnston family to Little Harbour in the early 1950s.

Elbow Cay (Hope Town)

Founded in 1785 by Loyalists, Hope Town’s 120-foot red and white candy-cane lighthouse, protected harbor and picturesque ambience make it the poster child for the Abaco archipelago. Three marinas offer transient dockage on the harbor’s west side. The transplanted New England village is a dinghy ride across the harbor and vaunts lovingly restored, brightly colored structures—house shops, private homes, galleries, and bed-and-breakfasts drip with Bougainvillea and are edged with white picket fences. The narrow sidewalk-like streets are designed for walkers and golf carts, and public entrances lead to a sweep of gorgeous, pink-powder ocean beach protected by a live coral reef just 30 feet offshore. The compelling Wyannie Malone Historical Museum is worth a stop. Its exhibits reveal the history of the village and larger archipelago. Among them are artifacts collected by infamous shipwreckers. Hope Town owes some of its early affluence to a group who enticed boats with false signal lights that led them to founder on the reef; they would then salvage the cargo. The island of Elbow Cay is a quarter-mile wide at its beamiest point and six miles from stem to stern.

Man-O-War Cay

One of the strongholds of Abaco tradition, most of the Man-O-War families are part of the original immigration. They became boat builders and shipwrights, and today Albury Brothers’ “Deep-V” runabouts have a passionate following that extends far beyond The Bahamas. There are several options for parts, boat supplies and repairs: Man-O-War Marina has slips and moorings; Edwin’s Boat Yard offers two full-service facilities boasting an extensive marine parts inventory; Man-O-War Hardware is a gold mine for cruisers. The village has two roads that parallel the harbor so it’s easy to make a long loop and see everything in an hour or so including three eateries and The Sail Shop’s hand-made duffel bags, hats and jackets. Two well-supplied groceries offer everything but alcohol: Man-O-War Cay is a “dry” island.

Great Guana Cay

Famed Nipper’s Beach Bar & Grill put Great Guana Cay on the map. Right on the ocean dunes, it sports picnic tables, chairs and multi-level decks painted every color of the rainbow along with a shallow two-level pool designed mostly for the pool bar. The weekly pig roast is a big attraction accompanied by a powerful orange concoction. Despite Great Guana’s five-mile-wide, untouched ocean beach, the settlement is still delightfully small—a good part of the island wants it to stay that way. Pick up a mooring in Fishers Bay and dinghy ashore, or head over to upscale Orchid Bay Marina and Resort for a pampered experience.

Treasure Cay

One of the few big yacht options in Abaco, the 150-slip Treasure Cay Marina and Hotel houses a pool, 18-hole golf course, restaurants, 100-room hotel, rental villas and condos, and tennis courts. Its gorgeous three-mile arc of powder-sand beach dazzles and is well worth a visit. A popular bar is dockside and a low-key, upmarket restaurant overlooks the pool and harbor. Abaco Ceramics’ studio sells its coveted wares in shops all over The Bahamas.

Green Turtle Cay

The northernmost destination for Abaco-centric cruises is Green Turtle Cay, which requires a short outside passage around Whale Cay. When the ocean is raging, this passage is not recommended; the Cruiser’s Net (Channel 68, at 08:15AM) gives up-to-date weather reports. Green Turtle is home to three harbors: Settlement (small boats only), White Sound and Black Sound. The latter is the closest viable anchorage to the historic village of New Plymouth. A good way to see the whole cay is to join the locals and rent a golf cart. The history of Green Turtle is chronicled in the Albert Lowe Museum and the adjacent Memorial Sculpture Garden. White Sound features the quietly elegant Green Turtle Club and Marina with a pool high above the harbor, cottage accommodations and an old Bahamian-style fine-dining restaurant that serves three meals a day. Across the harbor, Bluff House Yacht Club and Marina’s Ipe (Brazilian teak) docks are filled with big sport-fish boats whose owners enjoy the facility’s two pools, two restaurants and first-class amenities. Cruising the Abacos is viable at most any time of year with the unique culture, gin-clear water and spectacular beaches. But the best weather seems to be March through May; it’s about the same temperature as the Palm Beach area of Florida.

By Beth Adams-Smith, Southern Boating May 2014

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