Island Hopping in the Abacos

An Abacos Island Hop

One of the best things about traveling in The Bahamas (and there are many), is the sheer number of islands. The archipelago contains over 700 islands, all unique, beautiful, and cruise-able in their own right. But it’s the Abacos, a 120-mile sprawling island chain that stands out as a cruiser’s paradise.

Getting to the Abacos is a relatively quick trip by boat. It’s even quicker if you fly and charter or rent. Either way, the Abacos are best enjoyed over several days with family and friends.

Our Abacos Itinerary:

Man-O-War Cay
Day 1:  Man-O-War Cay 

Man-O-War is famous for its boat building history and Albury Brother’s Boats still produces some boats there today. The island is very laid-back, even by Bahamian standards, with a population of about 350 locals. There is also a public dock and a few small shops new Man-O-War Marina.

 

Day 2: Great Guana Cay
Nippers and her sister Grabbers will provide you with ample entertainment and spirits.

Arguably one of the prettiest anchorage spots in the Abacos, Great Guana Cay boasts picturesque beaches and great fishing. The small island has some big-name restaurants— hotspots Nippers and Grabbers will provide some of the most fun you’ll have on your trip.

 

Day 3: Green Turtle Cay

Historic Green Turtle Cay is famous for its shops, restaurants, and scenic sites. The quaint town, New Plymouth, was a former haven for Brits fleeing the US after the Revolutionary War. The New England–influenced architecture lining the streets shows off the historic roots.

Day 4: Treasure Cay

Developed in the ‘50s as a resort town, Treasure Cay has one of the most beautiful beaches in all the Bahamas. Photos do it no justice. For resort-style amenities, stay at the Treasure Cay Marina.

Day 5: Hope Town

Hope Town is best known for its iconic lighthouse on Elbow Cay. It began as another refuge after the Revolutionary War. Hope Town was settled by Wyannie Malone, a widow from South Carolina who traveled with her four children for safe refuge after the American Revolution. Explore the town’s gift shops, restaurants, and historic homes.

Day 6: Tahiti Beach

The picturesque Tahiti beach is also located on Elbow Cay. The beach is only accessible by foot, bike or boat. You’ll find a stretch of secluded beach and a seemingly endless sandbar will help pass the day. Search for seashells or try your hand snorkeling.

Day 7: Little Harbour

In 1951, Randolph Johnson, his wife Margot and their three sons settled on the white sandy beaches. Eventually, the family began the first bronze foundry in the country. Many Johnsons and their relatives are still in the area.  Treat yourself to a romp at Pete’s Pub, a cruiser favorite.

Fun fact: Pete’s Pub was founded by Randolph’s son Peter. 

 What did we miss in the Abacos? Where do you cruise? Let us know in the comments.

Tips for Anchoring in The Bahamas

An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.

No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas. 

Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas. 

1.  Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Bimini to clear Customs.

The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.

2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.

Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.

3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.

Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.

4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.

Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.

5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.

Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.

Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas

6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.

From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.

7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.

This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.

8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.

The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.

9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.

Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.

10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.

We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.

11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.

Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.

12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.

Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.

Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:

Anchors & Equipment
During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.

The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.

You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.

Finding the Right Spot
Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.

Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot.
Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.

By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015

About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.

Additional tips for anchoring.

Pampered in Paradise

Surprise your significant other with a special spa experience in The Bahamas.

Experience the ultimate escape with a rejuvenated body, mind and spirit at one of the many oceanfront spas throughout The Bahamas. With soothing therapies and services that range from Balinese-inspired amenities and traditional pampering to individual sanctuaries or couples’ spa villas, use this sampling of spas throughout the islands to find your ideal relaxation oasis.

The Abacos

Treasure Cay Abaco offers an Integrated Medical Spa with a wide range of beauty services, spa services and specialized treatments. Massages, wraps, facials, and enhancements create relaxation and boost overall health and skin vitality for men and women. (242) 365-8186; treasurecay.com/spa
Marina:
Treasure Cay Marina
(800) 327-1584; treasurecay.com/marina

Andros 

Kamalame Cay Resort features The Bahamas’ only overwater spa and offers personalized treatments during each visit. The spa uses the Naturopathic line of organic, sustainable products to deliver a holistic spa experience as you lie above the turquoise ocean. (877) 768-9423; kamalame.com/island-activities/overwaterspaMarina:
Kamalame Cay Marina
(242) 368-6281; kamalame.com


The Spa at Tiamo Resort
is surrounded by tropical palm trees to set the tone as you select from a wide range of spa treatments, including a revitalizing facial, an all-over body massage, or a body wrap and exfoliating session. All organic ingredients sourced from the sea give your skin a healthy boost. (242) 225-6871; tiamoresorts.com/healthy-living/spa/
Marina:
Kamalame Cay Marina
(242) 368-6281; kamalame.com

Nassua & Paradise Island

Windermere Spa and Salon has pampered and primped guests for over 65 years and now has three convenient locations, as well as appointments on board your own boat. An array of massages, facials, waxing, body treatments, and cosmetic services will create an invigorating, refreshing experience from head to toe. (242) 393-8788; windermeredayspa.com/
Marina:
Paradise Island Harbour Resort
(252) 676-2683


Sivananda Ashram Yoga Retreat
offers four main treatments: a therapeutic massage and Thai yoga massage to support general health and relieve tension; Osteopathy, a whole body system of manual treatment by a doctor to relieve joint and nerve issues, and Ayurvedic body treatments that massage oils deep into your tissues to release toxins. (242) 363-2902; sivanandabahamas.org/well-being-center/
Marina:
Marina at Atlantis
(242) 363-6068; atlantis.com/thingstodo/activities/marina.aspx


One & Only Spa at One & Only Ocean Club
has eight Balinese-style treatment villas for an individual or a couple, each with a waterfall shower, oversized daybed and whirlpool set in an open-air garden. Guests enjoy herbal teas and fresh fruit presented in a Japanese Tea Ceremony following each treatment.Select from the signature spa collections ranging during which guests will enjoy sessions lasting from two to six hours—Recharge, Renew, Serenity, Dream, Love, and Joy are all designed with a specific goal in mind. (242) 363-2501; oceanclub.oneandonlyresorts.com/spa.aspx
Marina:
Paradise Harbor Club & Marina
(242) 363-2992; festivaresorts.com


Red Lane Spa at Sandals Royal Bahamian Resort
uses indigenous ingredients to reinterpret spa rituals for singles and couples in the treatment room facility, en-suite, garden gazebos, or beachside. The full-service spa includes hot and cold plunge pools, a Eucalyptus steam room, sauna, and beauty salon. The Zen Garden on Sandals Cay, the resort’s private island, offers an additional four treatment rooms specially designed for couples to enjoy therapies in near isolation. Spa services are available exclusively to Sandals Royal Bahamian guests. (242) 327-6400; sandals.com/main/bahamian/ba-spa/
Marina:
Sandyport Marina Village
(242) 327-2425; sandyport.com


Mandara Spa at Atlantis Resort
has a comprehensive selection of Balinese-inspired health and beauty services offered in one of 32 treatment rooms. Spaces range from individual intimate retreats to private spa villas for two. The facility includes a relaxation lounge, hot and cold plunge pools, steam and sauna rooms, and a full-service salon. All packages include use of spa amenities and fitness facilities. (242) 363-2000; atlantisbahamas.com/thingstodo/spa
Marina:
Marina at Atlantis
(242) 363-6068; atlantis.com/thingstodo/activities/marina.aspx


Renova Spa at Hotel Riu Palace
offers tranquility and renewal through beauty treatments and a wide range of massage offerings. The facility includes four massage rooms, a whirlpool bath, sauna, gym, and beauty treatments for men and women. (242) 363-3500; riu.com/en/Paises/bahamas/paradise-island/hotel-riu-palace-paradise-island/
Marina:
Marina at Atlantis
(242) 363-6068; atlantis.com/thingstodo/activities/marina.aspx

 

The Exumas 

Grand Isle Resort & Spa features the SeaStar Spa, which utilizes organic ingredients from the ocean. By following a philosophy of “seawater therapy,” SeaStar Spa utilizes methods of natural marine healing to restore internal balance through innovative skin and body care treatments. Signature treatments include SeaStar Lava Shell massage, Exuma Beauty massage, and Island Lime & Ginger Salt Glow. Treatments may be arranged in your private villa. (242) 358-5000; grandisleresort.com/spaMarina:
Marina Emerald Bay
(242) 336-6100; marinaemeraldbay.com


Turquoise Cay Boutique Hotel
offers a variety of activities, including yoga and massages for stressed-out cruisers. Enjoy relaxation and soothed muscles among crystal clear waters and white sand beaches. (242) 357-0329; turquoisecay.com
Marina:
Man-O-War Marina
(242) 365-6008; manowarmarina.com


Red Lane Spa at Sandals Emerald Bay
is a sanctuary for relaxation and rejuvenation where classic European rituals are reinterpreted as distinctly Caribbean. Two signature packages are Scents of Love couples massage—a romantic candlelit experience with warm massage oil—and Raindrop Dreams, a 90-minute escape that harnesses the healing power of aromatherapy. (888) 726-3257; sandals.com/main/emerald/em-spa/Marina:
Marina Emerald Bay
(242) 336-6100; marinaemeraldbay.com

Grand Bahama Island

Wellness Within at Island Seas Resort features spices and aromas found on Grand Bahama Island with treatments taken from the Bahamian way of life. Relax your mind and body completely as you are pampered in a pristine beach cabana. (242) 373-1271; islandseas.com/todo/spa
Marina:
Sunrise Resort & Marina
(242) 352-6834; sunriseresortandmarina.com/marina/


Old Bahama Bay
offers a multitude of soothing spa treatments in the privacy of your suite, on the beach or in the resort’s on-site massage room. Swedish massages, reiki massages, couples massages, and salt glow treatments are among the many that are available daily with 24-hour notice. (242) 350-6500; oldbahambay.com/activities/spafitness.aspxMarina:
Old Bahama Bay Marina
(954) 763-6382; oldbahambay.com/marina.aspx

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By Christine Carpenter, Southern Boating May 2015

Bahamas Weddings

See Eight Locations for Dreamy Bahamas Weddings

Weddings are the stuff of dreams, a wonderful day filled with family and friends to help celebrate the start of your life with your one and only—but wedding planning is not typically as welcome as the grand celebration. If you have a ring on your finger (or plan to in the future) and want to choose the perfect place to make magical marriage memories, look no further than The Bahamas.

Less than 200 miles off the Florida coast, The Bahamas are home to some of the most sought-after cruising waters and soft, sandy beaches in the world—and for good reason. This dreamy locale sets the tone for romance and offers a number of unique, all-inclusive resort wedding packages for romance and ease when you say “I do.” Your bridal party and guests won’t hesitate to RSVP—after all, why wait until the honeymoon to share a luxurious, picturesque island getaway?

We’ve selected some of the most enchanting beachfront resorts offering all-inclusive, hassle-free, truly memorable wedding packages located on some of the most scenic Bahamian islands. And with marinas onsite or nearby, you and your guests can cruise to and from your special day.

 

Sandals Emerald Bay

Sandals Emerald Bay on Great Exuma Island has a wedding package wrapped up in a luxury vacation so grand, it’s called a “WeddingMoon.” With a six-night stay in any room category, your “beautiful beginnings” wedding package is free with an included wedding planner, signature cocktails, breakfast in bed, honeymoon dinner, and a reception for six—all with customizable upgrades. Sandals offers five other impeccably themed packages starting at $1,700 and include special party packages for larger groups who have come to help you celebrate your WeddingMoon. You can also opt for unique Caribbean destination wedding packages for families, or “FamilyMoons.” Visit the website for more details on the wedding packages and marina information. sandals.com/weddingmoons

Dockage: Marina Emerald Bay

Grand Lucayan in Freeport

Grand Lucayan in Freeport on Grand Bahama Island offers three highly customizable wedding packages to deliver the ultimate in dream weddings as understated or lavish as desired. Renewal of Vows starts at $900, Romance with Elegance starts at $3,000 and Grand Experience starts at $7,000—all with a unique ceremony site, transportation, flowers, photography, cake, catering, and musicians. Contact Grand Lucayan’s professional wedding planner at weddings@grandlucayan.com or (855) 531-8870. grandlucayan.com/wedding

Dockage: Port Lucaya Marina

Abaco Beach Resort

Abaco Beach Resort has four wedding packages—each with a wedding planner, photography, flowers, food, and drinks—all tailored to your desires. Tropical Affection starts at $1,565 and is simple yet classy, with a ceremony in the lush gardens or on the beachfront. Seaside Elegance starts at $1,845 and is breathtaking with its authentic seashells and sand theme. Hand in Hand, Toes in the Sand is the barefoot beach theme starting at $2,200 for a luxury wedding. Junkanoo Love starts at $3,540 and offers an exciting celebration bursting with color. Visit abacobeachresort.com/weddings for complete details to select the perfect package for your paradise wedding!

Dockage: Boat Harbour Marina

Pelican Bay Hotel

Pelican Bay Hotel at Lucaya is a tropical oasis on Grand Bahama Island that boasts intimate weddings with only one event hosted per day and four specific wedding packages to choose from. Options include the $3,900 Beach Bliss with a ferry ride to a secluded island ceremony; the $2,925 Water’s Edge Wedding under a classic gazebo overlooking Bell Channel Bay; the $1,299 Renewed Romance to rekindle your flame; or the Bahamian Junkanoo Wedding with an authentic celebration to follow your vows. Contact Pelican Bay’s professional wedding planner, Marva Munroe, at (242) 373-9550 or weddings@pelicanbayhotel.com to discuss details for your ideal celebration. pelicanbayhotel.com

Dockage: Port Lucaya Marina

Stella Maris Resort

Stella Maris Resort offers a relaxing wedding escape to exchange vows on the breathtaking shores of Long Island without the stress or fuss of event planning. The resort’s complimentary wedding planner helps to arrange your dream day, whether you opt for the Barefoot wedding package starting at $499; the At Ease wedding package starting at $1,100; the all-inclusive No Stress wedding & honeymoon week package starting at $4,095; or want to renew your vows with the Rekindle Your Love package starting at $799. stellamarisresort.com

Dockage: Stella Maris Marina

Small Hope Bay Lodge

Small Hope Bay Lodge on Andros Island provides simple oceanfront wedding ceremonies with a reception for up to 40 guests with every detail from the cake, videographer and photographer included. Choose from a multitude of ceremony venues including the glass room, pine grove, sandy shore, or even underwater—yes, there is a scuba-diving minister available with advance notice. Wedding packages start at $750 and can be arranged over the phone or via email.
smallhope.com/weddinghoneymoons

Dockage: Andros Lighthouse Yacht Club & Marina

Treasure Cay Marina & Golf Resort

Treasure Cay Marina & Golf Resort in the Abacos has an oceanfront beach wedding package that offers high value for its $650 base price. The tranquil island resort provides a relaxed atmosphere, and Treasure Cay Beach hosts more weddings than most venues in The Bahamas’ Out Islands.

Choose from five resort locations—the beach gazebo, oceanfront arch, poolside waterfront, harbor view sundeck, or the honeymooner’s lake on Treasure Cay Golf Course. Contact wedding and romance coordinator Avis Miller at avis@treasurecay.com or (242) 365-8801.
treasurecay.com

Dockage: Treasure Cay Marina

Atlantis Resort

Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island features spectacular Bahamian scenery and magnificent oceanfront views for a first-class, top-notch wedding experience. With 18 unique, breathtaking venues and 7 detailed wedding packages ranging from $1,950 to $25,000, Atlantis caters to each couple to provide celebrations that are nontraditional and casual, or elegant and formal.

Recite your vows barefoot on a white sand beach or declare your love in an elegant ballroom—then commemorate your romantic day with a special photo shoot at locations across the resort with the enormous aquariums or rocky ocean ledges as backdrops. Contact Atlantis’ wedding specialists today at (888) 528-9758 to book your spot at this resort that pulls out all the stops for your ideal day.
atlantis.com

Dockage: Marina at Atlantis

By Christine Carpenter, Southern Boating May 2014

Abacos, Bahamas

A Step Back in Time

Just 135 miles off the coast of Florida, due east of Grand Bahama Island is unsung, oft overlooked Abaco—the northern tip of The Bahamas. The 780-square-mile cruising ground boasts long stretches of unspoiled beach, clear turquoise water, quaint villages, good provisioning, professional marine services, friendly locals, great snorkeling, a wide range of eateries, and predictable 5- to 20-knot trade winds. Little Abaco and Great Abaco Islands—from Crown Haven to Hole in the Wall—form a 120-mile arc that acts as the “mainland” for an outer archipelago of small reef-protected “cays” that dot the Sea of Abaco.

Abaco seems to exist in a time warp. Despite its proximity to the United States, none of the hustle and bustle of the more populated Bahamian Islands has crept northward. That is not an accident. Most Abaconians are aggressively anti-development and determined to preserve this unique and special place. Each of the Abaco islands still has its own distinct persona—many families, descendants of the Loyalists who fled the United States during and after the American Revolution, have called these islands home for well over 200 years. Some of the villages are quaint and charmingly gentrified, others a little less prosperous, but all are well tended with at least one water-view, aboveground cemetery. The surnames on those headstones are the same names on today’s shops, ferries, boatyards, and services.

The jumping-off point for a loop cruise of the Abaco archipelago is centrally located in Marsh Harbour, the third-largest city in The Bahamas. Its protected, deep water has made it the main supply depot for the islands and the home for most of the ferries, yacht charter companies, and a tiny but international airport. The Conch Inn Marina, with pool and restaurant, hosts the Moorings/Sunsail base. Within walking distance, a new Maxwell Supermarket has significantly raised the provisioning bar.

Lubbers Quarters

An easy sail from Marsh Harbour, Lubbers Quarters Cay is a small seven-acre island that is home to funky Cracker P’s beach shack. At the head of a 200-foot dock lined with philosophical “Burma Shave”-style signs, Cracker P’s offers lots to do—from a closet full of board games to the equipment for volleyball, bocce, croquet, horseshoes, badminton, ping-pong, dominoes, and darts. Climb the steps up and over the 40-foot sand dunes to a large sweep of pristine beach, or hike the lush estate amid sapodilla (planted by the original Cracker P), mahogany, tamarind, and mangroves as well as wild orchids, bromeliads and hibiscus.

Little Harbour

The southernmost stop on an Abaco cruise, Little Harbour’s entrance—marked by pairs of red and green “found object” markers—opens into a harbor that’s protected nearly 360 degrees. Famous Pete’s Pub, Gallery and Foundry sits at the head of the harbor and rents moorings, serves casual fare in an open-air palapa, and presides over an atelier. Descendants of sculptor Randolph Johnston continue to cast bronze sculptures using a 5,000-year-old lost-wax process. Visit the Johnston Family Gallery and ask about a tour of the foundry. After a swim off the beach on the harbor’s eastern side, or off the mile-and-a-half stretch of white sand on the ocean side, join the regulars at the bar fashioned from pieces of Langosta, the old sailing vessel that carried the Johnston family to Little Harbour in the early 1950s.

Elbow Cay (Hope Town)

Founded in 1785 by Loyalists, Hope Town’s 120-foot red and white candy-cane lighthouse, protected harbor and picturesque ambience make it the poster child for the Abaco archipelago. Three marinas offer transient dockage on the harbor’s west side. The transplanted New England village is a dinghy ride across the harbor and vaunts lovingly restored, brightly colored structures—house shops, private homes, galleries, and bed-and-breakfasts drip with Bougainvillea and are edged with white picket fences. The narrow sidewalk-like streets are designed for walkers and golf carts, and public entrances lead to a sweep of gorgeous, pink-powder ocean beach protected by a live coral reef just 30 feet offshore. The compelling Wyannie Malone Historical Museum is worth a stop. Its exhibits reveal the history of the village and larger archipelago. Among them are artifacts collected by infamous shipwreckers. Hope Town owes some of its early affluence to a group who enticed boats with false signal lights that led them to founder on the reef; they would then salvage the cargo. The island of Elbow Cay is a quarter-mile wide at its beamiest point and six miles from stem to stern.

Man-O-War Cay

One of the strongholds of Abaco tradition, most of the Man-O-War families are part of the original immigration. They became boat builders and shipwrights, and today Albury Brothers’ “Deep-V” runabouts have a passionate following that extends far beyond The Bahamas. There are several options for parts, boat supplies and repairs: Man-O-War Marina has slips and moorings; Edwin’s Boat Yard offers two full-service facilities boasting an extensive marine parts inventory; Man-O-War Hardware is a gold mine for cruisers. The village has two roads that parallel the harbor so it’s easy to make a long loop and see everything in an hour or so including three eateries and The Sail Shop’s hand-made duffel bags, hats and jackets. Two well-supplied groceries offer everything but alcohol: Man-O-War Cay is a “dry” island.

Great Guana Cay

Famed Nipper’s Beach Bar & Grill put Great Guana Cay on the map. Right on the ocean dunes, it sports picnic tables, chairs and multi-level decks painted every color of the rainbow along with a shallow two-level pool designed mostly for the pool bar. The weekly pig roast is a big attraction accompanied by a powerful orange concoction. Despite Great Guana’s five-mile-wide, untouched ocean beach, the settlement is still delightfully small—a good part of the island wants it to stay that way. Pick up a mooring in Fishers Bay and dinghy ashore, or head over to upscale Orchid Bay Marina and Resort for a pampered experience.

Treasure Cay

One of the few big yacht options in Abaco, the 150-slip Treasure Cay Marina and Hotel houses a pool, 18-hole golf course, restaurants, 100-room hotel, rental villas and condos, and tennis courts. Its gorgeous three-mile arc of powder-sand beach dazzles and is well worth a visit. A popular bar is dockside and a low-key, upmarket restaurant overlooks the pool and harbor. Abaco Ceramics’ studio sells its coveted wares in shops all over The Bahamas.

Green Turtle Cay

The northernmost destination for Abaco-centric cruises is Green Turtle Cay, which requires a short outside passage around Whale Cay. When the ocean is raging, this passage is not recommended; the Cruiser’s Net (Channel 68, at 08:15AM) gives up-to-date weather reports. Green Turtle is home to three harbors: Settlement (small boats only), White Sound and Black Sound. The latter is the closest viable anchorage to the historic village of New Plymouth. A good way to see the whole cay is to join the locals and rent a golf cart. The history of Green Turtle is chronicled in the Albert Lowe Museum and the adjacent Memorial Sculpture Garden. White Sound features the quietly elegant Green Turtle Club and Marina with a pool high above the harbor, cottage accommodations and an old Bahamian-style fine-dining restaurant that serves three meals a day. Across the harbor, Bluff House Yacht Club and Marina’s Ipe (Brazilian teak) docks are filled with big sport-fish boats whose owners enjoy the facility’s two pools, two restaurants and first-class amenities. Cruising the Abacos is viable at most any time of year with the unique culture, gin-clear water and spectacular beaches. But the best weather seems to be March through May; it’s about the same temperature as the Palm Beach area of Florida.

By Beth Adams-Smith, Southern Boating May 2014

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