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Negative Effects of Corrosion

The Devil is in the Details

“Great floods have flown from simple sources,” said William Shakespeare, which is a fitting opening for the subject of the potential negative effects of corrosion aboard your boat and the possibility of big troubles because of it. How big? Great floods, indeed.

Here are a few facts. Steering clear of any chemistry lesson, electrolysis involves only one metal and a major change occurring in an electrolyte with chemical properties that make it capable of conducting an electrical current. A good example is when a lead-acid battery discharges and produces a significant alteration in the concentration of the battery acid. So when one of my dock mates called me on the VHF asking for a tow, he was wrong when he stated, “Electrolysis caused that blade on my prop to weaken and finally break off.” No, shipmates, his problem was most likely brought about by galvanic corrosion or, in part and sometimes in collusion with, its equally evil relative, stray current.

With galvanic corrosion the deterioration occurs between the dissimilar metals as they react while immersed in salt water. This is caused by the current—the movement of an electric charge—that flows between the two, each acting as anode or cathode, depending on its place on the galvanic chart of metals in sea water, and as a result of either being physically or electrically connected.

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The long and short of it here is not so much with the why of the process but more of preventing the result. For example, my buddy’s bronze propeller blade gave up more of itself, corroded as it were, and also the stainless steel shaft it was attached to because it is a less noble (or more reactive) metal than that of the shaft’s material.

While the effects of galvanic corrosion will more than likely occur over a protracted period of time, the serious effects of stray current can be seen in as little as several days. Should you have, for example, some faulty wiring lying in the bilge or a damaged float switch sending current into the water—or the same condition existing on another vessel in your marina—or even issues from the dockside shore power, regardless of whether you have a galvanic isolator in use, your boat is in serious danger. A shaft, rudders, props, outdrives, lower units, and bronze through-hull fittings are all at risk. If you even suspect this may be the case, and unless you are an ABYC certified marine electrician, the best advice is to take a big step back and get the experts in posthaste. (abycinc.org/educationprograms/certificationDirSearch.cfm).

Protection against galvanic corrosion is a bit simpler and yet comes with its own set of rules. “With fiberglass boats, Mil Spec A-18001K Zinc alloy sacrificial anodes are most suitable for the saltwater environment if the underwater metal you are trying to protect is bronze, stainless, and Nibral,” says Bob Olsen, President of BoatZincs.com. “With brackish water, aluminum anodes (Mil Spec A-24779)––which also provide saltwater protection as well––work best. If you use your boat only in fresh water, magnesium anodes (Mil Spec A-21412) are what you will need.”

If you run a stern drive or outboard boat, use aluminum protection. It’s best to check with your manufacturer for any special needs. In addition, with inboard engines, always make sure to check your pencil zincs twice a year.

The size of the anode is a function of how many square feet of metal are being protected, and if you are re-zincing make sure you confer with your yard or marina service manager. “Except for a few situations, you cannot over-protect your boat,” Olsen advises. He adds that boat owners should feel free to collar their boat shafts as well, as long as the boat is properly bonded. As always, call in the right technician to have a look if questions arise.

Making sure your boat’s metal fittings are properly protected against both galvanic and stray current corrosion is one of the most important preventive maintenance regimens aboard your boat.

By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating March 2014

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Southern Boating June 2014

Shaft Seal Maintenance

Shaft seal maintenance should be part of your boat’s regular check-up.

Ever since the first prop was connected to the first shaft being turned by the first internal combustion engine, there has always been the dilemma of how to keep water from entering a boat through that all-important hole in the hull while also protecting the rapidly spinning shaft from the ravages of friction.

If your boating years go back as long as mine, you are familiar with the steady dripping of the practical, always carefully attended-to stuffing box. This most important piece of gear housed a series of packing rings—numbering three to five and often made of braided flax rope—coated with a waterproof material, and allowed the shaft to pass through the hull and keep turning while under power. It also prevented the water from getting in and flooding the bilges. Once properly tightened down by a collar, the rings were compressed enough to allow a few drops of water every minute or so to “leak” in, permitting the shaft and the packing to be cooled enough to prevent scoring the metal surface or “burning” the packing.

But as with all things in the marine industry, a change was due. Enter the dripless shaft system. Utilizing highly machine-polished, mechanical mating surfaces held together by pressurized tension on a rubber bellows surrounding them and a hose connection between the intake side of the engine’s raw water pump and the device, they have become the familiar norm in most applications.

One of the big downstream concerns associated with the old stuffing boxes was one created when there was a more than acceptable raw water flow. Sprayed outward by the spinning shaft, the ensuing salty mist would, of course, hasten corrosion to any metal it landed on. With a fully encased design, shaft seals alleviate this problem.

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“We were most likely the first to use a rubber lip seal lubricated by raw water from the engine, replacing the traditional packing,” says Tides Marine engineering and quality control manager Skip Lookabaugh.

Overheating the housing can be trouble. In most cases, this is caused when air is allowed to accumulate inside due to most inboard engine drive shafts being installed on an angle, thus creating bubbles that can travel up the shaft. Dripless systems use the pressurized lubrication water to force any air out.

Dirt and grit can get sucked up if you run aground or operate in shallow, sandy bottom areas. And watch out for fishing line as well. “As with all devices with moving parts, if you notice a slight leak that steadily increases over time, you might want to check inside,” Lookabaugh adds. Prevention includes examining the lubrication system, hoses, clamps, and pump on a semiannual basis. Lookabaugh also recommends changing the lip seals on Tides’ equipment every five or six years.

Lou Foster, Duramax’s vice president of sales, also offers some maintenance insight and highly recommends regular visual inspections, especially if you have had any work done in the shaft area where someone could have stepped on the seal. With boats that have been sitting idle, there could be scale, sea growth or some other debris present. “Also, and while it should never happen, a noticeable bulge in the outer yellow bellows indicates something is causing the inner one to leak and should be taken care of,” Foster recommends.

“While we do have tolerances built in to allow for some misalignment and vibration, the main problem most boat owners would face occurs when something hits the running gear and really throws things out of whack,” explains Justin Romesburg, director of international sales for PSS. Therefore, should there be any alignment or vibration question, it is highly recommended that you have your shaft seal checked as well.

The shaft seal systems on the market today are rather robust and will have a fairly extended longevity with regular and diligent preventive maintenance. Should you have any questions about your particular dripless shaft seal, it’s best to get in touch with the manufacturer and have it serviced. Keeping your boat on top of the water depends on it.

By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating March 2014

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