How To Improve Your Prop Performance

Check other factors before you blame the prop. Here’s how to improve your prop performance.

When a boat runs poorly, propellers often get blamed. If the engines are in good shape, it’s only natural to get “propeller tunnel vision” and start indicting your blades for not doing their job. Before you yank out the prop puller and start trying new wheels, remember that props must work in harmony with the rest of the boat. If other parts of the vessel are not in top shape, then the prop can’t save it.

“Some people seem to view the propellers as isolated and independent from other important factors, such as the power and condition of the engine, or the weight, or the cleanliness and capability of the hull,” explains Jim Thelen, sales engineer for Acme Marine in Big Rapids, Michigan. “I’ve seen people buy numerous new propellers as if to assume that sooner or later they will find the one prop in existence which will ‘fix’ all other possible concerns and transform their performance by something outlandish.”

More than just a proppy face

There are some boat owners who take the oversimplified view of propellers merely in terms of diameter, pitch and number of blades. That’s like defining all automobile tires only in terms of diameter and width. Propeller design and manufacturing differences affect engine load, speed, power, plane time, smoothness, and efficiency.

“Some propeller factors which should be accounted for by a professional are the size of the blades or the amount of surface area in the propeller blades (often indicated as DAR or EAR), Cup (which affects load/engine RPM much in the same manner as pitch) and pitch distribution (varied, constant, cambered),” says Thelen. “The point is that one manufacturer’s twenty-by-twenty four blades may not be equivalent to another
manufacturer’s twenty-by-twenty four blades.”

What’s amiss?

The hull’s condition can also significantly affect performance. Thelen describes how one boat’s power and speed relative to published or reported performance was down. “He tested the new propeller I recommended and still, his RPM and speeds were down significantly.”

Thelen went through his usual litany of questions about boat weight, engine service, cleanliness and condition of the hull, possible modifications to the boat, and altitude. Nothing revealed itself until he dug deep enough to get the owner to admit that the boat had been moored in warm ocean water for a long period which resulted in a rough bottom. “It wasn’t until he had the bottom stripped and refinished that he gained the speed he was looking for,” says Thelen. “We had him into the correct propeller from
the start.”

Extra Load

An overweight vessel can also be a problem because, over the years, boats usually get heavier, not lighter. Stuff goes on board every weekend, but not all of it comes off, and it can really add up. When add-ons and enclosures increase wind resistance, or a dirty hull increases flow resistance or when engines get tired, the boat slows down, and the original props can become overpitched. Sometimes you can improve your prop performance by simply chucking some stuff.

“The original props may not be achieving sufficient RPM relative to the engine manufacturer’s RPM ratings,” says Thelen. “The loss of RPM and potential overloading can cause power loss, speed loss, slower plane time, and potential engine damage, especially in terms of long-term use. The most common approach is to reduce propeller pitch in order to achieve appropriate wide-open-throttle RPM.”

To determine if the propeller is working its best, “It’s important to keep an accurate log of one’s boat model and weight, engine model number, manufacturer’s RPM specifications, transmission or V-drive gear ratio, current prop size, etc.,” says Thelen. “Most engine manufacturers place an ID tag on their engines which indicate s horsepower and RPM specifications.

Determining appropriate propellers basically involves running the boat (with typical or average load) at full and verifying that the engines are achieving the expected or recommended RPM at WOT [wide open throttle] and that the boat is achieving reasonable, expected speeds.”

Thelen suggests that if RPM readings are below the manufacturer’s WOT recommendations, then the propellers are likely overloading the engines. If the actual WOT RPM reading is too high, then the propeller is likely underloading the engine and, perhaps, a different propeller can improve speeds.

Data is King

Data and proper care of all facets of your engine can help to improve your prop performance.

But before you start swapping out props, verify all the data: boat weight, engines, gears, current props, speeds achieved. It’s nearly impossible to get a precise propeller answer if the reported data and specifications for the boat are off the cuff, guesstimated or vaguely recalled from several years ago.

“Complete data, accurate numbers, and double-verified specifications can produce very accurate propeller recommendations,” says Thelen. “I urge people to verify all their boat, engine, gear, and current propeller data with their own eyes and to write everything down.”

Thelen advises that having a spare propeller is a good idea. “Most people don’t go very far with their automobile unless they have a spare tire,” he says. “And most people aren’t very happy being without a boat on the first day of their vacation because of a damaged prop.

Furthermore, there are so many different types and sizes of propellers in existence today that no one can carry them all, which means that the waiting time for a replacement, for some props, can be months rather than weeks. So if you like your boat and if you want to be able to continue using it when the surprise moment comes, then I suggest carrying a spare.”

acmemarine.com

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating May 2019

Annual Haul Out Guide

A Southern Boating Magazine Supplement: Annual Haul Out Guide

Our annual haul out guide has everything you need to know about planning your boat’s maintenance. From new system installation to surprise costs and product reviews, Southern Boating is your number one resource for planning a trip to the yard.

Our annual Haul Out Guide is a reader favorite and now we’re sharing the valuable info.

The 2019 guide covers fire suppression systems, potable water, windlass advice and much more. Read the 2019 articles here, or download the entire guide below.

Below is our archive of printable/downloadable Haul Out Guides. Take it with you to the boatyard, your backyard or wherever you work on your boat.

Questions? Comments? What are your tips and comments about getting work done? Let us know and you could be featured on our website! Tell us your best with your best haul out stories in the comments.

2019

2018
2017

Davit Maintenance

Keep your lift in tip-top shape with some davit maintenance

Davits work on boats without fanfare. Akin to heads and air conditioning, no one thinks about davits unless they break. But a davit with a hitch or one that won’t run at all is a major hassle that can ruin a weekend. It’s a sad sight to see a pair of personal watercraft or a tender stuck on a flybridge, high and dry, when there are islands to explore.

Boats larger than 60 feet often need a davit to deploy the tender—it’s often not a luxury but a necessity to get to shore. An 800-pound tender hanging at the end of a 10-foot davit boom is a big structural load vulnerable to forces of wind and sea. It’s easy to see why the routine davit maintenance is vitally important, and why it’s crucial to quickly transfer the tender from one place to another.

Over the past 20 years, hydraulic davits have become the standard on boats and displaced manual boom davits with electric winches. “The market is now hydraulic davits because it’s easier for the operator to use,” explains Garnett Byrd, president of MarQuipt, based in Pompano Beach, Florida. “Electronic drum winches are loud and subject to bird nesting where the cable wraps around on itself, while hydraulics are quiet, and the linear cable system keeps the cable from wrapping on a drum. You can add power rotation, and the boom can elevate and extend while the tender is in the air to increase flexibility and ease of use. All those features add up fast to make hydraulics preferable.”

Use it or Lose it

Exercising your davit offers a host of advantages and helps you notice a potential problem. Running it lubricates all the internal parts, including the valves, pistons, cylinders, and seals. The easiest davit maintenance? Run the davit weekly, or even monthly, to avoid problems well before they start. “Problems can arise from an incomplete freshwater wash down,” says Byrd. “Remember to rinse the inside of the davit and not just the outside of the davit. Shoot fresh water through the head of the davit when on an angle so it washes down the inside components (cable, pulley sheaves, fittings, hydraulic cylinder bodies, etc).”

Be careful not to overload the davit. Know its lifting weight capability and also the weight of the tender complete with engine, fuel, fresh water, battery, fire extinguisher, and options such as a trolling motor and outboard engine jack.

Exercising the davit also helps keep you trained and ready for proper operation. If the first time you use the davit to launch a tender is in a remote location, this is a recipe for disaster. You can operate remote models with one hand, but it’s important to be comfortable with the operation before you attempt a lift.

The Issues

Davits may have by three types of problems: electrical, hydraulic and mechanical. How boat owners and operators address these problems depends upon the urgency of the situation. Is it something you discovered at the dock during downtime, or are you on a cruise and need to fix the problem to stay operational? “Electrical problems can often be the simplest things,” Byrd explains. “The first place to look is where you plug in your controller; check the male and female connection points.

This may be more troubleshooting than davit maintenance, but if one function gives you a problem, check the wires on the back and make sure they are connected and not broken. Spray corrosion inhibitor on the connections as a routine maintenance function to make sure that doesn’t become a problem.”

With hydraulic issues, air or debris that gets into the lines can hinder operation. “Hitching, balky or inconsistent movement may be a sign that air or debris has gotten into hydraulic oil,” says Byrd and adds that low hydraulic oil can contribute to these problems. “A little piece of debris in the system can intermittently prohibit the flow of oil to the valves. Maintain fluid levels by checking the hydraulic power unit and run the davit regularly.

The Solutions

If you have the skill, disassemble the valve and look inside for obstruction. Keep an eye out for leaks—obviously, any oil leak is a sign something is wrong.” Byrd suggests that boat owners can perform basic davit maintenance, such as the addition of hydraulic fluid, inspection of electrical connections and lifting cables for mechanical problems. But a qualified marine service yard should handle more advanced mechanical jobs such as the replacement of said cable or hydraulic lines and flushing and changing hydraulic oil.

As a final tip, when you rinse the outside of the davit, keep an eye for chipped or peeled paint. “Davits are typically painted aluminum, and we have isolation between dissimilar metals like stainless steel nuts, bolts and screws,” says Byrd. “If there are any paint scratches or chips, make sure you touch up those areas to avoid long-term paint oxidization.”

By Don Minikus, Southern Boating November 2018

Maintenance Check

Time for a maintenance check. Don’t skip these oft-forgotten items

There’s a lot of terrestrial-based wisdom that just doesn’t ring true when it comes to boats. “Out of sight, out of mind,” “What you don’t know can’t hurt you” and “Let sleeping dogs lie” are all perfect examples of advice not to heed when planning your boat’s maintenance. In an effort to protect you from old wives and their tales, here are three often neglected items that can ruin your boating day quicker than stepping on a crack can cause you to cry over spilled milk. Just do a maintenance check.

Maintenance Check #1: Anchor rode and connections

No matter what you enjoy doing on the water, there’s one need all boaters have in common: the ability to anchor safely and securely. Unfortunately, the other thing they often have in common is poorly maintained or unserviceable ground tackle.

While the anchor typically enjoys a place of prominence at the bow, the anchor rode is relegated to the dark, dank recesses of the anchor locker. In a nutshell, its purpose is to connect the boat to the anchor.

Most boats use a combination rode, which is simply a rope rode with a length of chain between it and the anchor. The chain protects the rope portion of the rode from chafe along rough seabeds and adds weight that increases horizontal pull and helps the anchor remain set. Three-strand nylon is most commonly used for anchor rode. It’s strong, provides more elasticity than a braided line (which absorb the sudden loads and jerks of a bouncing boat), is more easily spliced, and is less expensive.

Your anchoring system is only as strong as its weakest component, which includes not only the rode, but also shackles, splices, chains, mooring bitts, cleats, and, in short, any gear used to secure your boat while at anchor. Proper maintenance includes inspection of these items as well as pulling the rode from the anchor locker and inspecting it at least annually. Check rope rodes for wear, hard spots, cut strands, aging, discoloration, etc. Chafe is rope’s worst enemy, so you’ll also want to inspect hawseholes, chocks, cleats, and windlasses for burrs, sharp edges or anything else that can cause rope damage.

Maintenance Check #2: Stuffing box

Stuffing boxes (aka packing glands) are victims of their own reliability. They carry on so well with such little attention that many boat owners don’t realize they need regularly scheduled maintenance.

The purpose of the stuffing box is to allow the propeller shaft to exit the hull while keeping water out. The shaft is sealed by compressing packing material against it, most often by using a hollow nut that screws onto the inboard side of the shaft tube or a tightening arrangement that uses a plate secured by nuts and studs on either side of the shaft. The more you tighten either type of gland, the more the packing material gets compressed against the shaft. Most packing consists of a square plaited material and comes either as traditional greased (or waxed) flax or a more modern version impregnated with Teflon.

Water helps lubricate the packing material, so it’s okay for a stuffing box to leak a few drips (three to four per minute) while the vessel is underway. More than that amount (say 10 drops per minute) or any drips while the shaft isn’t turning indicate the need for maintenance. A stuffing box leak can cause everything from corrosion (the spinning shaft slings excess water all over the engine compartment) to sinkings, particularly if the boat is left unattended in the water for long periods of time.

Maintenance Check #3: Packing Material

Packing material hardens over time (as the lubricant dries out) and gets worn away by shaft rotation, allowing water to pass and enter the vessel. When this happens, most boaters simply tighten the packing gland to compress the packing material and stop or reduce the leak. This works to a point; however, as the packing gets smaller, it also gets harder. Keep compressing it, and it will eventually score the propeller shaft, which will then have to be replaced before the stuffing box will seal properly.

The simplest answer here is to replace the packing material on a regular basis. This bit of routine maintenance should only take about 30 minutes and normally costs less for materials than you’d spend on a mocha-frappu-latte-whatever and a free-range muffin. How often you repack typically depends on the number of hours your boat is used. As the vessel has to be hauled, many owners simply repack annually as part of their haul-out or spring commissioning routine.

Maintenance Check #4: Fuel tank fill hose

You’d be hard-pressed to come up with a more out-of-sight, out-of-mind item than your fuel tank fill hose. Fill hoses are attached to the underside of the fuel fill fitting, connecting it to your fuel tank.

All hose has a limited lifespan, and fuel fill hose is no exception. Recommended replacement timeframes will vary between fuel hose manufacturers, but some call for replacement as often as every five years. The American Boat and Yacht Council standards also call for flexible fuel fill hose to be double clamped at each end with marine-grade stainless steel (if there is sufficient hose barb to allow it) as well as marked with the manufacturer’s name or trademark, year of manufacture and application on the outermost cover.

Access and inspect fuel tank fill hoses regularly for leaks and deterioration as part of your vessel’s maintenance program. Check that each end of the hose is double clamped and that the clamps are tight and free from corrosion. Replace older hose (regardless of appearance) as per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Story and photos by Frank Lanier, Southern Boating September 2018

Inspect Your EPIRB or PLB

The only thing worse than not having crucial safety gear on board is to have it fail when needed. So inspect your EPIRB and PLB.

Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs) and Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) are expected to work flawlessly in an emergency every time despite minimal maintenance and constant exposure to the harsh marine environment. But! You need to inspect your EPIRB and/or PLB will keep it ready, willing and able.

The primary purpose of any emergency signaling device is pinpointing your location to ensure rescue within the “golden day,” that first 24 hours following an emergency during which the majority of survivors can (statistically anyway) be saved—in essence, taking the “search” out of a search and rescue mission. An EPIRB or PLB goes a long way to accomplish that goal.

When activated, emergency beacons transmit a coded message on the 406 MHz distress frequency, which is then relayed via the Cospas-Sarsat global satellite system and earth stations to the nearest rescue coordination center. Units featuring built-in GPS can provide a location accuracy of 150 feet or less.

EPIRB vs PLB

The popularity of PLBs has soared in recent years due to their portability and lower costs, so why not just skip an EPIRB altogether and go with something you can wear? Although PLBs and EPIRBs work in exactly the same manner, there are a number of differences between them beyond size.

While PLBs transmit a distress signal for a minimum of 24 hours, transmit time for an EPIRB is double that (a minimum of 48 hours). Unlike a PLB, EPIRBs can also configure to automatically deploy and activate in the event of an emergency. Category I EPIRBs are designed to float free from a sinking vessel and turn on automatically when it comes into contact with water, while a Category II rating denotes those that are manually activated and deployed.

Unlike a PLB, which is registered to a person, an EPIRB is registered to a specific vessel, which means you can’t legally take it with you to use onboard another vessel.

Testing and maintenance

A good rule of thumb: inspect your EPIRB or PLB once a month. Experts agree that EPIRBs and PLBs should be inspected monthly or prior to an extended cruise. When inspecting and conducting any test, exercise extreme caution to avoid inadvertent activation and generation of a false distress alert.

Start by inspecting the exterior of the beacon thoroughly for any physical damage, such as corrosion, cracking, and water ingress. For EPIRBs, you’ll also want to inspect the mounting bracket or housing. EPIRBs float free when released, so they should be stowed in an unobstructed location. Such installations will also have a Hydrostatic Release Unit (HRU) designed to sense water pressure if a vessel sinks, releasing the mount and allowing the EPIRB to float to the surface. HRUs expire every two years, so note the expiration date during your inspection.

Next up is checking the expiration date of the battery. This will be shown on the beacon manufacturer’s label or a separate sticker. Battery life for most units is five years, although some newer models exceed that. Replace the battery if the beacon has been activated. It must also be replaced on or before the label’s expiration date.

Make use of the self-test instructions when you inspect your EPIRB.

Check the registration with NOAA. This one is expired!

Verify the presence of a current NOAA registration sticker. Federal law requires all U.S.-coded EPIRBs and PLBs to be registered with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). This registration provides search and rescue organizations emergency contact information so that if your beacon is activated, they’ll know who they’re looking for. It also gives them someone to call and verify that it’s an actual emergency, rather than a false alarm. This means you’ll need to update your registration if any of the information changes. Beacon registration or updates are easily done online at sarsat.noaa.gov/beacon.html.

Self Test

Once the physical inspection is complete, conduct a self-test by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Following these instructions is crucial to ensure your beacon is working properly and to prevent accidental activation.

When conducting a 406 MHz beacon self-test, the EPIRB or PLB is allowed to radiate a single burst that’s specially coded so that it is ignored by the COSPAS-SARSAT system. Most EPIRBs will have a visible test switch, one that’s spring loaded so that it can’t be left on inadvertently and drain the battery. Depending on the unit, a combination of beeps and light or strobe flashes will indicate test circuits are operating properly. Many newer EPIRBs and PLBs will display tests and results via an integral display.

If you accidentally activate your EPIRP or PLB, turn the unit off and cancel the false alert by calling the nearest U.S. Coast Guard Station. They, in turn, will contact the nearest Rescue Coordination Center to cancel the alert. As part of your boating season startup, inspect your EPIRB and PLB can be a lifesaver.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating May 2018

More Safety Gear

Exhaust System Maintenance

Before the heat of summer sets in, make sure your boat engine’s cooling and exhaust system will stay cool.

After a long, cold winter and a chilly, wet spring, the first thing people want is warm weather. A boat engine wants heat, too, to run smoothly. But its exhaust system needs to keep things cool to prevent overheating. Or the possibility of serious damage to the engine or generator.

“The little time that it takes to check your exhaust components can save you lots of time and trouble down the road,” says Bill Arwood of Centek Industries. “If you notice discoloration, salt deposits or even shriveled labels on any part of your exhaust system, you need to find the underlying cause and address it immediately. Depending on the materials used in the construction of your exhaust components, your risk can run from a little time in a repair shop to a catastrophic failure on the water.”

Keep it Cool

Engines run hot and the exhaust system is designed to take most toxic gases and fumes away from the boat (and its occupants) and cool them down before they’re discharged out into the air or water. The exhaust system also muffles engine noise as well as reduce exhaust emissions—e.g., carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides—in order to meet environmental regulations.

To help keep the engine at its optimum running temperature, a water-cooled exhaust system cools both the engine and the exhaust by pumping raw water through a system, most likely a heat exchanger, that uses the water to transfer away excess heat and is then pumped out the exhaust system. Although some inboard engines use an air-cooled or dry exhaust system, most marine engines use a wet exhaust system where water is injected into the exhaust system to cool down the gases (as well as decrease the system’s inherent noise) that are then discharged through the exhaust outlet. Both sides of the cooling system require an inspection to avoid an overheated engine and prevent exhaust leaks.

On the Front End

The beginning of the inboard engine’s cooling process begins with the raw water intake strainer and pump. It’s not just seaweed and debris but also microorganisms, lime, and calcium that can build up and make their way into the small tubes of the heat exchanger. A reduced water flow interferes with the heat transfer process. A cooling system flush can help prevent this from happening. But the other important check is the pump’s impeller.

On an outboard, an impeller pushes the water to the bottom side of the powerhead, is directed toward the thermostat and bypass valve, and when the thermostat reaches its manufactured operating temperature, opens to allow water circulation to maintain the proper fuel/oil mixture burn to prevent carbon buildup. The impeller and thermostat are the two pieces that need a checkup, but it’s the impeller that causes about 95 percent of engines overheating. “Regardless of the size engine powering your boat or generator, reduced water flow spells trouble,” says Arwood. “If your engine is overheating, you can bet that heat is also damaging your exhaust system. A quick check of your water pump impeller is a great way to avoid problems.”

Off the Back

On the exhaust side, it’s important to check for leaks in the piping, mufflers, connectors, elbows, and welds. A leak can fill the bilge with water or the boat with carbon monoxide. This could allow water to back into the diesel engine. “Signs of exhaust leakage can include black soot streaks around flanges or insulation blankets, blackened intake air filters or soot on horizontal surfaces of the engine room,” says Rick Boggs of EnerYacht and creator of the SeaClean diesel generator soot filtration system.

He suggests checking for corroded welds or piping and loose flange bolts or band clamps that can lead to failed gaskets. “Darkened fiberglass piping or yellowed paint on mufflers or water separators and darkened areas on silicone connectors downstream of the mixer tank or spray ring (where water is injected into the exhaust pipe) are signs of overheating,” he says. Causes can be low raw-water flow or blocked or eroded ports in the spray ring that lead to poor distribution or lack of cooling water.

Centek Industries also points out that an engine that spends a lot of time at idle or slow speeds may not get adequate water flow to cool exhaust temperatures and cause water to seep from a damaged area. Also look for salt deposits on the muffler. They appear as a white chalky substance and indicate a spot where water is escaping, which indicates that the muffler probably experienced overheating. Boggs reminds boat owners that good insulation blankets can reduce engine room heat and fire risk. But “carefully check all insulation for the presence of oil or fuel soaking, as this is an extreme fire hazard.”

Atwood adds that the two areas vulnerable to obstruction are the water pickup point and the water discharge. As it happens, both are usually easy to check. “Something as small as a dirt dauber nest in the discharge line or thru-hull fitting can cause overheating problems.”

Exhaust System Checklist

To help avoid problems with your exhaust system this coming season, Centek suggests running through this exhaust system checklist.

1. Inspect and replace worn impellers.

2. Check the water pump and replace or repair as needed.

3. All screens and traps should be free of debris.

4. Check all hoses and clamps for wear, and make sure clamps are tight and secure.

5. Make sure seacocks are open and functioning properly before startup.

6. Check external rubber flappers for cracks, dry rot or other damage.

7. Thru-hulls should be free of obstruction. Check to make sure a critter hasn’t made a winter home in the exhaust tube or muffler.

8. Visually inspect the muffler for signs of damage from excessive heat. This include bubbling or flaking paint, discoloration, melted stickers, and/or salt deposits.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating May 2018

Still hot? Try Air Conditioner Maintenance

Bow Thruster Maintenance

Proper bow thruster maintenance will ensure the best performance from your bow thruster

Bow thrusters are part of what I refer to as the “silent crewmember’s union.” Always willing to help out when needed, thrusters—along with other union members (autopilots, anchor windlasses, etc.)—make our time on the water both safer and more enjoyable. As with any boating equipment, proper bow thruster maintenance is key when it comes to reliability. Here’s how to make sure your thruster is always ready to lend a hand.

Electric vs Hydraulic

A bow thruster is simply a propulsion device that provides lateral (port and starboard) thrust, making the vessel more maneuverable. It is electric or hydraulic and will be either a traditional tunnel- or tube-mounted drive or an externally mounted unit.

Electric units can be further divided into 12- or 24-volt DC types or even the occasional
AC-powered unit. Hydraulic thrusters are commonly found on larger vessels, particularly those that have additional hydraulic systems on board to power anchor windlass or dingy davits.

A typical electric thruster installation involves either running cables of sufficient size to minimize voltage drop from an existing battery bank or installing a dedicated battery in the vicinity of the thruster along with a method of charging it. A third option is piggybacking off of an electric windlass circuit.

Bow Thruster Maintenance

Bow thruster maintenance requirements are determined by the type of thruster you have. Different models have different needs, so the first place to look when compiling your maintenance list is the owner’s manual. Schedule and follow the specific requisite provided there, but here are some other things to consider.

Access the thruster space at least twice a year and inspect the thruster compartment for excessive moisture levels, standing water and leaks. Examine the thruster tube ends (where glassed to the hull) for cracks in the gelcoat or laminate. Another place to check for leaking is the gasket at the thruster saddle, the bracket where the motor mounts to the thruster tube. Inspect the motor and all thruster components for corrosion. Even if there are no leaks, many thrusters are installed in compartments near the anchor locker, where wet rodes and chain create a moisture-rich environment. Running rust, flaking paint or a white, powdery substance on aluminum components are all indications of corrosion

Inspect the motor and all thruster components for corrosion. Even if there are no leaks, many thrusters are installed in compartments near the anchor locker, where wet rodes and chain create a moisture-rich environment. Running rust, flaking paint or a white, powdery substance on aluminum components are all indications of corrosion
and should be addressed. Many manufacturers recommend removal of the motor annually
for examination. This provides an opportunity to check motor brushes, grease couplers, inspect shear pins, etc. It also allows you to view the condition of the sealing gasket
and ensure all mounting hardware is tight.

Secure power to the thruster, then look over and clean all electrical connections. Check both ends of the battery cables for loose hardware, corrosion and other issues; remove and clean any terminals where decay is noted.

Moisture can wick under shrink tubing, so remove it, inspect and clean connectors as required, then recover them. Go over all other thruster system electrical connections and components (battery switches, fuse holders, solenoid connections, etc.).

Check the gear oil level. Some units are completely sealed (meaning their oil level never needs evaluation); however, others require periodic topping-off and changing at regular
intervals. Most units use 90-weight gear oil, but confirm whatever is called for in your owner’s manual.

If your thruster is powered by a dedicated battery, check its installation and condition at least twice a year. It is a good idea to put this on your calendar for the spring and fall months. Check the battery performance with a battery tester. If the battery is not holding a charge, replace it.

Don’t forget the helm control panel and joystick during your inspection, examining each for looseness, deterioration, corrosion, and UV damage. Verify proper operation of the
controls at each helm position, and if you have a wireless remote, now is a good time to install new batteries.

During Haulout

Clean the thruster drive, propeller(s) and inside of the tunnel of marine growth, and check each for cracks or dings. Inspect the drive for corrosion or other problems and the propeller for damage, looseness, etc. Oil in the tunnel beneath the propeller indicates a leaking seal, which will need to be replaced.

Check the condition of the sacrificial anodes (zincs). Although some units have composite gear assemblies and don’t require them, most thrusters will have at least one zinc installed. These should be looked at and renewed annually at a minimum—sometimes more often depending on your vessel’s location and other factors. Always check thruster zincs when you have your other zincs inspected (propeller shaft, rudder, trim tabs, etc.); those zincs can typically be replaced by a diver. Some thruster zincs are specialty items and may not be readily available locally, so carry plenty of spares should they need replacing. In fact, this is a good idea for any extra parts required for your thruster (shear pins, brushes, saddle gaskets, oil seals, spare propellers, etc.).

Apply appropriate antifoulant to the tunnel and drive. Metal drives may require a specific type of antifoulant paint, so follow whatever is recommended in your owner’s manual.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating October 2017

Clean on Demand: Installing a Deck Washdown System

Add a deck washdown system for a squeaky clean boat.

As a marine surveyor I’ve often wondered why many boat manufacturers don’t include a deck washdown system as standard equipment. After all, the “stuff” a boat owner has to deal with—from fish blood to the fragrant evidence that Uncle Joe had one too many margaritas last night—is easier to remove sooner rather than later back at the dock, after it has dried to a concrete-like consistency. In addition, rinsing your anchor chain prior to storage not only reduces corrosion (particularly in the case of freshwater washdowns) but also keeps the un-hygienic smell of Davy Jones’ gym locker from permeating the entire boat. Installing a washdown system is easily within the ability of most any DIY’er. Here’s how to make it happen:

Water supply options
Start by planning out your entire installation (hose runs, pump location, power supply, etc.) before drilling holes. Consider the washdown system’s water source. Most are plumbed as a “raw water” system utilizing the water your boat is in. In the case of saltwater fed systems, this means you’ll still want to deal with the salty residue left behind once back at the dock (to avoid corrosion issues), but in my opinion, a salty boat is better than a nasty one any day.

A second option is tapping into the boat’s freshwater system. This will typically limit the amount of water you can use (based on tank size) but does have the advantage of reducing the effects of corrosion on metal components via freshwater washdowns.

A third option is plumbing your system to draw from both. This gives you an unlimited supply of saltwater to power off grime, plus the option of a final freshwater rinse with minimal drain on your potable water supply.

Freshwater washdown systems are plumbed into the freshwater system at some convenient point (possibly near the tank). Raw water systems require either a dedicated thru-hull or connection via a “T” fitting into an existing raw water system hose.

Using an existing thru-hull is the most common route, as most owners tend to shy away from cutting additional holes in their boats. It also has the added benefit of allowing you to complete the installation with the boat in the water by simply shutting the seacock of the raw water system you’re tapping into.

Choosing a pump
Pump selection (and adequate water flow) are the most crucial aspects of the system. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to power off anchor chain crud with a wimpy stream of water. The trick is finding a moderately priced pump that not only provides adequate pressure with minimal power draw but can also stand up to the marine environment.

A typical deck washdown pump’s output pressure ranges from 3-12 GPM (gallons per minute) with prices of $100 or less to over $1,000. Buying a deck washdown package (a kit that includes pump, deck fitting, deck hose, etc.) will often save money. Also, the pump’s warranty can vary from one to three years—the longer coverage period, the better, of course.

Installation considerations
When selecting a location for your washdown pump, choose an accessible area well above where bilge water accumulates. The pump should also be between the water supply and planned deck outlet, ideally as close as possible to its power source to simplify wiring runs. As pumps are more efficient at pushing water than pulling, the location should also be as close as possible to the supply thru-hull or freshwater tank.

Be sure the pump installation itself is in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and that it includes an intake strainer between the pump and water supply in order to prevent pump damage due to debris.

Pumps vary in their ability to self-prime or lift water vertically in order to start pumping. Some are rated at 8-9 feet, while others may only be able to overcome 2 feet of “head” when pumping. Make sure the location you’ve chosen doesn’t exceed the pump’s self-priming ability.

If installing a freshwater-only washdown system, don’t be tempted to simply cut into the system and use your existing freshwater pump. You can do it, but don’t expect too much from such an install. Pumps used in freshwater systems weren’t designed to move large amounts of water quickly and lack the pressure of a good washdown pump. When planning your install you’ll also need to figure out where to locate the deck outlet. Most folks simply mount it on the foredeck (close to the anchor) as cleaning ground tackle is often viewed as its primary job, however there’s no rule saying you have to put it there.

Regardless of where you decide to install the outlet, make sure you have enough space beneath the deck to accommodate the hose and associated fittings and that you won’t be drilling into anything unexpected (wiring or cables) while cutting the mounting hole. Seal the edges of the hole with thickened epoxy when cutting through cored decks (balsa, plywood, etc.) to prevent water intrusion into the core (and rot) later on. Bedding the fitting with a suitable marine caulking will help in this regard as well.

Installation of a pressurized washdown system is an excellent return for a relatively small investment of time and money. Cleanups after raising the anchor will be a cinch, and you’ll find so many other uses for the system—hosing off the dog, rinsing the dingy, giving the kids a bath—you’ll wonder how you ever got along without it.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine November 2016

Stability at Sea Goes Small

The new Seakeeper 3 gyro system offers stability previously only available to boats 40 feet and up.

It still surprises me how many people suffer from seasickness in spite of all the medications that are available and technology developments that lessen the rock-and-roll at sea. Several years ago, I met a wealthy yacht owner whose wife was extremely prone to seasickness. To her credit, however, she wasn’t willing to give up on their dream to circumnavigate the globe. Her husband researched extensively and found a yacht that was designed to significantly reduce the rocking motion that causes seasickness. They then went to the North Sea to test a prototype in the most turbulent conditions possible. He found her calmly knitting a scarf during their sea trial, unaffected by the rough seas, and he ordered one built for their extensive cruising itinerary. Several years later they embarked on their circumnavigation together on their new yacht. Not everyone who suffers from seasickness, however, can afford to buy a custom yacht.

The Seakeeper 3 provides stabilization for boats from 30 to 39 feet.

Fortunately, owners of boats 40 feet or larger can retrofit their craft with aftermarket marine stabilization technology by Seakeeper, Inc., providing the boat’s design accommodates the unit. The company first introduced their gyro stabilizing systems in 2008 for boats larger than 40-feet LOA and commercial craft. Owners of boats smaller than 40 feet, however, have had no option other than to leave their seasick-prone family and friends at the dock. That recently changed.

At the 2016 Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show last November, Seakeeper revealed the release of its newest and smallest model yet: the Seakeeper 3 designed for boats sized 30 to 39 feet. According to the manufacturer, the Seakeeper 3 reduces up to 95 percent of the motion that contributes to the often-debilitating effects of seasickness, including angst, nausea and weariness. The Seakeeper 3 is also 30 percent lighter and 25 percent smaller than their other models; the new addition gives owners of smaller boats the option to add increased stabilization to their existing craft. Seakeeper offered sea trials during the boat show so that builders, boat owners and the media could experience the stabilizing effects of the Seakeeper 3 firsthand. “We had a customer with us that just commissioned a 34-foot center console build and was on the fence about adding the gyro,” said Joel Kauffman from Xcelerator Boatworks. “Well, before we even finished the sea trial we had definite plans for a Seakeeper gyro on our new build! The customer was in true disbelief at how effective the gyro was in very extreme situations. We were also very impressed with its physical size for ease of installation, low noise level, and operation smoothness. We now have plans for gyros in our next three builds: a 64-foot convertible, 34-foot center console and a 40-foot walkaround. We are all very excited with what Seakeeper has brought to the table in recent years!”

Since many boats in the 30-39′ range do not already have a generator, adapting the product with that in mind was of paramount importance. The Seakeeper 3 runs exclusively on 12-volt DC power, so the refit process is simple and does not require additional power systems or complicated modifications. Installation involves a customized leaning post design and can be completed in only two days. Andrew Semprevivo, Seakeeper Vice President of Sales and Marketing said in a press release that the Seakeeper 3 offers their technology to smaller vessels, which is the next step in the company’s goal to bring stabilization to the boating mainstream. “By offering an optimized solution for boats between 30- and 39-feet long, Seakeeper is offering stabilization solutions to a whole new range of boats for the first time. It truly is our biggest, smallest thing yet.”

The Seakeeper 3 can be ordered now for shipments starting in Spring 2017. MSRP is $26,900.

— By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017

For more information: seakeeper.com

Fix Engine Issues

I heard it first. Accustomed to the sound my diesel engines make when running properly, I could tell that something was not right.

Once I shut down the starboard engine, I discovered a partially clogged primary filter. A quick element change and I was on my way.

A lot happens the moment you key the ignition. From the initial surge of electrical energy that gets things going until you shut down, a multitude of connections, gaskets, belts, pumps, pistons, switches, and many more parts are put into play in order to get your boat going.

Listen

First—listen. Know what it all sounds like when your engines operate at the proper parameters and are working the way they should be. If you become aware of a raspy or rough noise, a bad bearing just may be the cause. Have it checked and make sure the belt is at the proper tension. Take into consideration the appropriate coolant and manifold temperatures, oil pressure, rpm, exhaust water flow, the color of smoke, the percentage of load, and other factors critical to proper performance and safety.

With that in mind, let’s survey several often unnoticed maintenance items that can keep you dock-bound and if left unchecked, could possibly have you experiencing sticker shock when you get the service bill.

Keep a readily accessible maintenance log that not only lists your oil and filter changes but also any notes about your regular inspection regimen whenever you set out from the dock.

Some of the most noticeable items you can check are your belts. It’s quite easy to do a simple visual inspection and run a finger along the inside to make sure the belt is free of nicks, gouges, missing teeth, or has too much “give” when depressed. If you notice any of these, swap them out immediately. And as with many maintenance items, always carry spares.

Zincs

Your engine zincs, known as pencil zincs, present another easy to access component. With your heat exchanger usually made of a copper alloy, protection from dreaded galvanic corrosion is necessary. These sacrificial anodes are held in place by a brass bolt plug, whose top is sometimes painted a bright color and easily unscrewed for inspection. Examine them regularly and should you find half the zinc gone, it’s time for a replacement. Check your cooling water jacket zincs as well.

While your boat is underway, seawater lubricates the spinning prop shaft inside the shaft log or through a strut and is held there by the Cutless bearing. One of the best-known manufacturers of these items is Duramax Marine, who also owns the registered trademark Cutless, for these parts. The inner structure—with its fluted design to allow for water flow and to clear any debris—is made of nitrile, a hard, durable, rubber material, which is in turn covered by a Naval brass sleeve or a non-metallic, composite material. If you notice any vibration or a flat, muffled (or reverberating) sound while underway, this can be a strong indication something is amiss.

As this area needs to be checked with the boat out of the water, it’s always best to do it during your seasonal launching. Your service manager will use a feeler gauge or dial indicator to check the bearing clearance to the shaft. He will also try and move the shaft up and down and from side to side to check for wear.

Mounts

Although they have a very long life expectancy, take a look at the mounts on your main engine or engines as well as those on any other machinery you may have such as watermakers, generators or air conditioning systems. The rubber part of the mount not only acts as a sound and vibration damper but also, as in the case of your mains, is crucial to keep things in alignment. If they appear to be sitting too low, the rubber material may be compromised and will need to be replaced.

Should this be the case, have your marina manager take a look to confirm your suspicions. Keep in mind that as tempting as it may be to even the most skilled and experienced tinkerers, this is not a do-it-yourself project. It’s always best to check with your engine manufacturer to get their recommendations.

Always include a visual inspection of all critical hoses and clamps for any sign of deterioration, corrosion or leaks, and replace immediately. Inspect all places a gasket is used and look for any seepage, dripping or weeping. Inspect all the critical maintenance areas before setting out. This will not only give you peace of mind while underway but can prevent costly repairs in the future.

— By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating January 2016

Know Your Exhaust System

Marine exhaust systems for inboard engines can be divided into two basic types—dry and wet exhausts. Dry exhaust systems have been around the longest but are now found primarily on commercial vessels or other specialty applications (high-performance craft, etc.). The basic job of a dry exhaust system is to carry hot exhaust gases overboard through a series of metal pipes. These pipes typically extend vertically from the engine and into a protective stack, where exhaust gases are then expelled above the decks and well away from the vessel.

Wet exhaust systems are more popular with recreational boats and are the focus of this article. They use water to cool the exhaust gases—and quiet engine noise—prior to discharging it overboard. Another benefit of this approach is the additional installation options it provides builders, as the cooled gases allow the system to now be routed horizontally to the exhaust outlet. Reduced temperatures also mean other materials (rubber, fiberglass, etc.) can be used in the system.

How they work

Water-cooled exhaust systems inject cooling water into the exhaust via an exhaust riser or mixing elbow, where the exhaust then pushes the water out of the exhaust outlet. Exhaust cooling water is typically provided by the engine’s raw water pump although a second pump may also be used (depending on the system).
Most installations will also include a muffler located between the riser and the discharge outlet. This not only reduces engine noise but also gives errant water entering the exhaust outlet a place to collect.

Corroded-exhaust-elbow with heat resistant insulation

Maintenance tips

A great familiarization (and maintenance) strategy is to conduct an inspection of your exhaust system now and at regular intervals in the future, ideally as part of your fall layup and spring commissioning routine. Ideally, all materials used in your exhaust system should be labeled as to their suitability. Hoses, for example, should be labeled “marine wet exhaust” and be able to withstand heat, water weight, pressure, oil, and acids. Anything other than short hose runs (i.e. four times the inside diameter of the hose) should feature wire-reinforced hose, while all hose connections should be made to a ridged component (pipe, muffler, exhaust outlet, etc.). Hose to hose connections (i.e. a larger hose fitted over a smaller hose and then clamped) are not acceptable.

Vessels with a transom exit exhaust should also have an exhaust valve, which is simply a rubber flapper that attaches to the outside of the exhaust creating a one-way check valve to help prevent water from entering the exhaust (and possibly the engine).

During your exhaust system inspection check hoses for leaks, kinks, chafe, bulging (at hose clamps), and other signs of deterioration. Verify each hose is double clamped where possible (see sidebar) and that hose clamps are tight and free from corrosion. Keep a lookout for leaks at other system components as well, paying special attention to engine manifold and exhaust elbow joints (prime places for both leaks and corrosion). Heat-resistant lagging (insulation) covering dry or “hot” sections of the exhaust should also be removed periodically to allow a full inspection of the components underneath. Check the exhaust system with the engine both off and on as some leaks will only occur with the engine running.

Finally, finding and correcting exhaust leaks are also extremely important from a safety standpoint as these can introduce carbon monoxide (CO) into the vessel’s interior with deadly results.

Helpful Tips

Double hose clamp installation
While double hose clamps are often recommended for many cooling system hoses (particularly on seacocks), they should only be installed where there is sufficient length of barb/nipple available and hose end overlap to allow it. Hose clamps should be installed no closer than 1/4″ to the end of the hose and must fully engage the barb to prevent damage to the hose from occurring.

Engine manifold and exhaust riser checks
Engine manifolds and exhaust risers should be periodically removed, pressure tested and inspected for internal corrosion and clogging, any of which can lead to catastrophic engine failure. This should be considered routine maintenance particularly with systems operating in salt water. How often depends on vessel location (fresh or salt water) and the amount of use. However, at a minimum they should be removed and inspected every four to five years and more frequently for older units.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine September, 2015

Clear the Air

Clear the air after months of layup when marine sanitation systems and air-conditioning ducts may be filled with stale, foul air. Ridding the boat of trapped odors ranges from the first step of simply flinging open all the doors, ports and hatches, to inspecting and cleaning the wastewater lines and holding tank with eco-friendly treatments, and installing an air filtration system.

A physical inspection of sanitation lines, valves and vented loops ensures there isn’t a major problem brewing. The sanitation system may have been neglected and not properly winterized, so it’s important to start off fresh. “Over the course of the boating season and in down time the vent valve can get stuck, an air pocket gets trapped and the head won’t work,” says Dale Weatherstone, Raritan’s managing director of Fort Lauderdale operations. “Check your discharge line vented loops to make sure the valves are functioning correctly. The lubricant used may be silicone-based, which is awful for valves. What you want is a Teflon-based kind of grease. Also, if you can increase the ventilation within your holding tank, do so. Most boats have three-eighths or half-inch lines, but one-inch vent lines are recommended.”

Raritan makes three biodegradable, non-toxic liquid treatments that can help rid the boat of sanitation odors: K.O. for holding tanks, C.P. for cleaning the head, and C.H. for cleaning lines and hoses. “K.O. helps facilitate the breakdown of solids to make pump-out easier,” Weatherstone says. “When re-commissioning, start with that prescribed mixture and then the boat is ready when people start using the heads. The aerobic bugs in K.O. consume the anaerobic foul-smelling bugs in the holding tank and break the solids down to more liquid contents, and that eliminates odors.”

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Raritan’s C.P. is a bio-enzymatic treatment for cleaning the head and works in conjunction with K.O. Raritan’s C.H. cleans up the hoses and holding tank by removing calcium carbonate that builds up from using salt or brackish water for raw-water flush toilets. “The calcium carbonate buildup gets so bad a one-and-a-half-inch discharge line can have the opening the size of a pencil,” Weatherstone explains. “C.H. dissolves that and eliminates it.”

While you are checking the boat’s internal lines and valves, it’s a relief to finally air out the boat after months of layup. The saloon, cabins and heads may be musty from the lack of fresh air, so on a nice day open everything and let the breeze flow through. However, unpleasant cooking odors, molds, viruses, and more can fester and linger, and Dometic’s In-Duct Breathe Easy Purifier can help.

In-Duct Breathe Easy can be installed anywhere within the air conditioning system’s ducting. Cut into the ductwork at the desired location, insert the Breathe Easy tube and re-connect the ducting (it is available in all common duct diameters). Dometic recommends installing it in a section of the ducting that’s easily accessible for servicing, as the UV bulb must be replaced annually. The Breathe Easy works silently within the ductwork using the air conditioning system’s blower to move air through the purifier.

Air-purification systems utilize the purification power of UV light, and it is important to make sure the system’s UV light does not produce ozone. Ozone—an unstable molecule—creates free radicals that may irritate the lungs and deteriorate rubber seals. The UV bulb in Dometic’s Breathe Easy air purifier operates at a frequency that does not produce ozone.

UV light sterilizes biological contaminants that pass close to it and also activates the photocatalytic coating inside the purification device. Biological or chemical contaminants that come in contact with the coating are molecularly reconfigured into harmless elements such as water vapor or carbon dioxide. For best results, boat owners should consider systems that maximize air contact with both the UV light and the photocatalytic coating.

By Don Minikus, Southern Boating March 2014

Shaft Seal Maintenance

Shaft seal maintenance should be part of your boat’s regular check-up.

Ever since the first prop was connected to the first shaft being turned by the first internal combustion engine, there has always been the dilemma of how to keep water from entering a boat through that all-important hole in the hull while also protecting the rapidly spinning shaft from the ravages of friction.

If your boating years go back as long as mine, you are familiar with the steady dripping of the practical, always carefully attended-to stuffing box. This most important piece of gear housed a series of packing rings—numbering three to five and often made of braided flax rope—coated with a waterproof material, and allowed the shaft to pass through the hull and keep turning while under power. It also prevented the water from getting in and flooding the bilges. Once properly tightened down by a collar, the rings were compressed enough to allow a few drops of water every minute or so to “leak” in, permitting the shaft and the packing to be cooled enough to prevent scoring the metal surface or “burning” the packing.

But as with all things in the marine industry, a change was due. Enter the dripless shaft system. Utilizing highly machine-polished, mechanical mating surfaces held together by pressurized tension on a rubber bellows surrounding them and a hose connection between the intake side of the engine’s raw water pump and the device, they have become the familiar norm in most applications.

One of the big downstream concerns associated with the old stuffing boxes was one created when there was a more than acceptable raw water flow. Sprayed outward by the spinning shaft, the ensuing salty mist would, of course, hasten corrosion to any metal it landed on. With a fully encased design, shaft seals alleviate this problem.

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“We were most likely the first to use a rubber lip seal lubricated by raw water from the engine, replacing the traditional packing,” says Tides Marine engineering and quality control manager Skip Lookabaugh.

Overheating the housing can be trouble. In most cases, this is caused when air is allowed to accumulate inside due to most inboard engine drive shafts being installed on an angle, thus creating bubbles that can travel up the shaft. Dripless systems use the pressurized lubrication water to force any air out.

Dirt and grit can get sucked up if you run aground or operate in shallow, sandy bottom areas. And watch out for fishing line as well. “As with all devices with moving parts, if you notice a slight leak that steadily increases over time, you might want to check inside,” Lookabaugh adds. Prevention includes examining the lubrication system, hoses, clamps, and pump on a semiannual basis. Lookabaugh also recommends changing the lip seals on Tides’ equipment every five or six years.

Lou Foster, Duramax’s vice president of sales, also offers some maintenance insight and highly recommends regular visual inspections, especially if you have had any work done in the shaft area where someone could have stepped on the seal. With boats that have been sitting idle, there could be scale, sea growth or some other debris present. “Also, and while it should never happen, a noticeable bulge in the outer yellow bellows indicates something is causing the inner one to leak and should be taken care of,” Foster recommends.

“While we do have tolerances built in to allow for some misalignment and vibration, the main problem most boat owners would face occurs when something hits the running gear and really throws things out of whack,” explains Justin Romesburg, director of international sales for PSS. Therefore, should there be any alignment or vibration question, it is highly recommended that you have your shaft seal checked as well.

The shaft seal systems on the market today are rather robust and will have a fairly extended longevity with regular and diligent preventive maintenance. Should you have any questions about your particular dripless shaft seal, it’s best to get in touch with the manufacturer and have it serviced. Keeping your boat on top of the water depends on it.

By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating March 2014