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Category: Maintenance

Boats require a rigorous maintenance routine. Keeping up with boat maintenance is critical to improving performance and preventing repairs. We have expert information on maintaining and repairing everything from heads to hulls.

Boat Coating Controversy

Coating Controversy
Wax? Plastic polymers? Ceramic coatings? What’s the deal?

Mother Nature is brutal on boats. Sun, wind, water, and temperature have damaging effects to every material included in the boat’s structure and the goods brought on board. Wood, fiberglass, gel coat, paint, stainless steel, vinyl, plastic, fabric, nylon, wire, you name it, everything is affected by the environment, including the contaminants produced by humans.

It’s a known fact that boats, cars, cowboy boots, snowboards, windshields, skin, swim platforms, and most products do much better when protected by a coating, whether it’s wax, silicone polymer, nano-glass (ceramic), zinc oxide (for skin), or varnish. They repel water and provide lasting protection against the elements.

Polishing is a vital step to produce a glass finish.

Cover it Up

Fiberglass boat hulls have a gel coat outer layer that creates a durable, water and UV-resistant shell that strengthens the fiberglass structure. However, gel coat is porous and susceptible to oxidation, stains, and contaminants. It needs a protective cover, a coating to keep it clean and shiny.

Coatings

Many different coatings are available to protect the boat’s hull—wax, sealant, and ceramic—and they all have variations in their own group. Gel coat is not the same as the clear coat applied over car paint and oxidizes much quicker. Even new boats will have some degree of oxidation even if there’s a shine. (To test it, take a wax and apply it to the worst-looking area, suggests Darren Priest, owner/operator of Auto Fetish Detail. If there’s any difficulty removing the wax, then it’s best to polish out the oxidation before applying boat wax to the rest of the boat.)

  • Wax: Wax has been around a long time, so there are lots of choices in the marine market. They almost all provide a similar level of gloss that will help increase the shine and offer a level of protection from dirt, saltwater, and ultraviolet light when applied to a clean surface. Natural wax is usually durable for six months.
  • Sealants: Sealants are chemically engineered to bond to the surface. They take a little more time to apply, but last longer than wax, about nine months to a year. Some add ingredients to remove old wax and residue when applied and provide a clear, hardened polymer barrier to reduce the slow fade induced from ultraviolet light as well as guard against salt and weather conditions. They can also be used on aluminum and stainless steel surfaces.
  • Ceramic: Ceramic coatings have become more commonplace in the marine market over the last few years because of its claim to last much longer than wax or sealants without re-applying, typically 18-24 months in southern states and 3-4 seasons up north. Ceramic coating is a liquid polymer made from ceramic nanoparticles (usually silicon dioxide or silicon carbide) that are suspended in a clear resin. When it hardens on the surface, it’s chemically bonded to create an impermeable layer that is semi-permanent, meaning it won’t come off unless it’s abraded.

 There are many brands like wax and sealants. “The amount of silica dioxide in the ceramic is the difference between brands,” says Chris Stephan, owner/operator of Astroglaze Autoworks in Fort Lauderdale. “The more silica, the better.” Professional ceramic coatings usually contain 90 percent silica. However, the surface needs extensive preparation for it to secure properly.

Start Clean

Wax will add some shine and help protect the hull from harsh elements. The same is true with plastic polymer sealants as well as ceramic coating. The difference is in the product’s longevity; the similarity is that the surface must be clean when applied, even more so with ceramic as it is semi-permanent.

“Preparation is sometimes a tall mountain to climb,” says Stephan. If a boat is new, the mountain becomes a hill, but if there’s oxidation, stains, dirt, old wax, etc., start with a degreasing bath/wash. For ceramic coating, follow the cleaning with a clay block or mitt treatment using a clay lubrication. “The cleaning material is a clay lube,” says Stephan. “It feels like soapy water, but it’s a detail spray you can just wipe down. There are specific clay lubes, but you want to use a soft lube because the more abrasive ones will scratch. It’s super important to take your time and be thorough during this process.”

Compound buffing is next, and after that, use a priming polishing compound and different pads. Then prep the surface with liquid Prep-Sol (or 70 percent alcohol). “So many people skip or skimp on this part,” says Stephan. “All those buffing hours will go to waste. Each area treated with ceramic must be treated with some kind of liquid prep. This part removes any residual polish or anything. It’s now ready for ceramic coating.

Maintenance and Cost

Washing off the boat after use and wiping it down will help maintain the shine, but eventually, protective coatings will need re-application. Depending on how often you want to perform maintenance, the boat will need wax every three months or so and a ceramic coating will only need a touch-up (not a complete application) every year in order to keep it up to snuff.

Case Study

Glidecoat has studied the effects of ceramic coating on boats, cars, inflatables, airplanes, and even yacht propellers. They utilize a meter to measure the gloss on the surface. A factory new boat will register 82-88 on the scale.

Before ceramic coating prep and application.

On one 24-foot SeaHunter, the initial reading was 9.7. Following the preparation steps, including the alcohol prep, Glidecoat applied two coats of its ceramic coating. After eight hours of curing time, the hull looked like glass and will provide protection up to 18 months. It was the same on a 2004 32-foot Regulator with a dark blue hull. The owner felt he saved about 30 percent in costs compared to what he was previously spending to maintain the boat.

After ceramic coating application

There’s something to be said for the Zen that the wax on/wax off process offers some boaters, and it’s the least expensive way to protect the hull. But no matter what protective coating is used on the hull, none of it is worth it if it’s not maintained. If you want to avoid applying wax every few months, then ceramic may be the best choice. With upkeep, it will certainly last the longest.

Annual Haul Out Guide

A Southern Boating Magazine Supplement: Annual Haul Out Guide

Our annual haul out guide has everything you need to know about planning your boat’s maintenance. From new system installation to surprise costs and product reviews, Southern Boating is your number one resource for planning a trip to the yard.

Our annual Haul Out Guide is a reader favorite and now we’re sharing the valuable info.

The 2019 guide covers fire suppression systems, potable water, windlass advice and much more. Read the 2019 articles here, or download the entire guide below.

  1. Boats and (thru) Holes
  2. Replace Your Enclosures
  3. Synthetic Decking
  4. Cut Your Amp Usage
  5. How do Watermakers Work?
  6. Dock Maintenance

Below is our archive of printable/downloadable Haul Out Guides. Take it with you to the boatyard, your backyard or wherever you work on your boat.

Questions? Comments? What are your tips and comments about getting work done? Let us know and you could be featured on our website! Tell us your best with your best haul out stories in the comments.

2019 

2018
2017

Five Ways to Cut Down on Amp Usage

 

 

Five ways to cut down on amp usage

Most modern marine equipment has evolved to require much less power. When you’re in the boatyard this spring, do more with less and cut down on amp usage.

Radar

Arguably, you use radar under way when your engines are running, so who really cares how much power it’s using?

On the other hand, if your electronics suite is due for an upgrade, consider a more efficient unit. In standby mode, radar doesn’t draw much, but when it’s transmitting, the power needs are quite high. Consider one of the new units like the Simrad Halo that comes with either open or closed array antennas. This solid-state, pulse compression radar delivers a mix of close-in and long-range detection and excellent target definition with low clutter.

It has five modes to help process a variety of targets and a range from 48 to 72 nautical miles. The Halo is available for both 24- and 12-volt applications and an added bonus is its ultra-low electromagnetic and radiation emissions.
That means you can put one on the flybridge with you and not worry too much about scrambling your brain when the radar is running.

Climate Control

Air conditioners create the greatest energy loads aboard, and chances are the older your system, the more power it takes. New units from companies like Dometic are smaller,
self-contained and quieter with vibration-isolation mounts. Their high-efficiency rotary and scroll blowers use fewer amps and notably reduce fatiguing sound. Italian company Termodinamica (TMD) offers 24-volt DC units that don’t even need a genset. Made with titanium heat exchangers, the TMD units touts a power consumption rate that’s 50 percent lower than other comparably sized units on the market. Many air conditioners today also have an ECO mode where they ramp down if they are running off of batteries, via an inverter, and the battery voltage starts to fall. Adding window shades and tinted glass will also relieve the pressure on air conditioners and may even help refresh your interior design.

Refrigeration

The fridge also is a major power hog. Refrigerator efficiency has to do with the type
of unit (air, water or keel-cooled) and the quality of insulation around the box.
Frigoboat has highly efficient fridges in both 12- and 24-volt applications with refrigerator, freezer or combo solutions.

Their unique keel-cooled system is reliable, efficient and quiet with no pump or fan to create noise, and it doesn’t need winterizing. Check the age and condition of your insulation, too, or just tear out the old stuff and install some stainless steel drawers that will also upgrade the boat’s aesthetics.

Isotherm offers plug-and-play solutions with their cabinet refrigerators powered by 12/24-volt Danfoss compressors. These units feature extra thick, but still compact, insulation so the boxes stay cold with less power. They even have stand-alone, plug-in coolers for use on deck so you can keep your beverages nearby and not have to open the galley refrigerator as much.

These Travel Boxes also have ECO modes to slow the compressor once the food and drinks are already chilled.

Lighting

Most new boats now come standard with interior and exterior LED lighting, but if your vessel is of an older vintage, it would be worth swapping out your deck, salon and galley lights for new ones that draw less power. Imtra offers a variety of fixtures to help you upgrade the look of your interior including courtesy lights that create an impressive ambiance. As design trends move from direct to indirect lighting, options migrate from
down and spotlights to strip and rope lighting hidden behind valences and under furniture.

Evolved whites in LED options are now available, so it’s not hard to create a warm glow.
Efficient lights include navigation or running lights like those by Attwood, Perko, LopoLight, and Aqua Signal. You’ll save a few amps with an LED anchor light that you forget to turn off.

Finally, don’t forget those power-hogging heat generators below the waterline.  Underwater lights are known as large consumers of power. New developments in optical design, thermal management, and marinized electrical components have created lights that are brighter and use less power.

Lumishore’s thru-hull and surface mount, full-color cycling lights can replace older lights and provide better color while they use less power, and they can even be paired with
sound to “dance” to music. That’s worth the price of admission alone.

Battery Efficiency

Finally, efficiency comes down to the size, quality, and type of your battery bank. Charging with a genset is more efficient than charging with the engines and alternators, but a good battery bank is also important to your onboard power equation. The better the efficiency of a battery, the higher its charge acceptance rate, which is the amount of energy that can be pumped into a battery in a given period. Wet cells are about 60 percent efficient, gel cells 75 percent and AGMs 85 percent.

AGMs, especially any of the thin plate, pure lead (TPPL) variants, also have the highest charge acceptance rate, so they will optimize system performance. How you charge is also important. Charging cool batteries quickly is most efficient. For banks that are especially depleted, it may be best to charge with engines and the genset simultaneously. As batteries heat up during charging, it takes longer to get that last percent of charge pushed in despite the genset running just as hard as in the beginning.

These are just a few ideas on how you can save power and thereby burn less fuel and shrink your carbon footprint. Some of these are bigger projects, while others are a matter of just upgrading aging equipment. Chances are that some of these systems will pay for themselves down the road in operation costs, fuel and wear and tear on your engines or genset.

By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating March 2019

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Sacrificial Anodes

Sacrificial Anodes

Sacrificial anodes die so your underwater gear may live.

A war is raging under your boat. High-priced running gear and outboard lower units made of aluminum, copper, and steel face galvanic corrosion. Corrosion occurs when dissimilar metals connect under water. The solution involves connecting an even more “active” negatively charged material to the copper and steel—the sacrificial anode. The anodes are made of aluminum, zinc, and magnesium and connected to the boat’s underwater engine and propulsion parts to take the brunt of the corrosion. They are “sacrificed” to protect the more valuable metals.

How do anodes work?

“Anodes have to be underwater to work,” explains Martin Wigg, vice president of Anode Business at Performance Metals. “The anodes work by providing a supply of electrons to lower the voltage of the protected metal. That is only half the circuit though. The other half is the flow of ions in the surrounding water. No water equals no ion flow and no circuit and, therefore, no protection. There are companies that market ‘corrosion grenades’ to protect metal in air, but they are a scam.”

Aluminum has become a recommended metal for anodes in salt water, and magnesium anodes work best in fresh water. In fresh water, a zinc anode forms a chemical coating that stops it from working; however, zinc anodes are a favorite of many boat owners in salt water despite the advantages of aluminum. “Zinc is still used in the majority of cases,” says Wigg. “It’s fine for use on inboard boats in salt water but that’s really all.

However, people are slow to change. They have been using zinc for years and are hesitant to change to something new, especially if zinc is working fine.” When boaters take the leap and try aluminum anodes, they find that they work better than the old zinc anodes and never go back. This is especially true for aluminum-hulled boats and outboard motors.

How long do anodes last?

“Zinc doesn’t really protect aluminum components that well even in salt water,” Wigg explains. “Many boaters also don’t realize that zinc doesn’t work for long in fresh or brackish water. I have heard people say, ‘My anodes have lasted for years.’ Yes, because they stopped working.” Anodes dissolve over time and, eventually, must be replaced.

Martin Wigg’s Top Tips for Anodes.

Two factors are important. First, to provide good protection, there must be enough anodes to bring the full potential of the vessel down by 0.2V to an acceptable range. The lower the measured voltage, the less likely the metal will corrode. This is where zinc anodes have a problem protecting aluminum components. Zinc anodes sit at -1.05V and aluminum components sit at around -0.75V, a difference of 0.3V, not much more than the required 0.2V drop. Aluminum anodes—a special alloy—sit at -1.1V, a difference of 0.35V, which is much better.

“The second factor is that the protection offered is proportional to the surface area,” Wigg says. “So as the anodes wear away, that surface area is reduced. The general guide is to replace the anodes after they have worn down by one half.” Performance Metals’ range of aluminum alloy anodes has a Red Spot plastic indicator that appears on the surface when it is time to change.

Which boats need anodes?

A 50-foot fiberglass cruising vessel has metal components that need protecting. With bonded thru-hulls, use a transom anode at a minimum. Wigg suggests the Performance Metals’ Divers Anode or HYAA (ribbed anode with extra surface area). “Viking uses these on its vessels. There should also be anodes on the engine’s drive shaft to protect the propeller and shaft. The bonding system is not well connected to the shaft since it goes through the gearbox.”

There are various shapes and sizes of anodes that have a variety of purposes.

Outboard-powered boats need anodes to protect the engines. Install the main aluminum anodes on the outboards. A transom anode for any other metal components is also advisable and should be aluminum. A zinc transom anode would reduce the protection provided by the aluminum ones on the outboard and speed up their use.

Also, outboards are unique because the midsection and lower unit are almost always aluminum. Back in the early 1990s, as the outboard makers saw galvanic corrosion as a huge issue, they sought a better solution than zinc anodes and went to aluminum. Some outboard manufacturers void warranties if anodes are zinc.

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating February 2019

Dock Maintenance

Dock Maintenance

Regular dock maintenance will keep it safe for your boat and guests.

It wouldn’t be wrong to say every boat owner has at least an ounce of pride in their vessel no matter its condition, with most taking great strides to make sure it’s cared for
and in good shape. No one wants to miss the opportunity to get out on the water when the time is right. In addition to keeping the boat up to snuff, the same goes for its home port: the dock.

If you’re lucky enough to own your own dock or even if you rent one, it’s important to maintain the structure and add features that protect both the boat and those who
walk on it.

Inspect it

Safety should always be at the forefront. Each time you walk the dock, look at it with an eye for imperfection. Look for nails or screws backing out of wood planks and for loose and rotting boards. You don’t want the kids or guests to trip and fall or catch splinters in their feet.

Is there anything missing? Take a look at the structure both above and below the waterline. Are fasteners, bolts, nuts, and cross beams solid? When you jerk the dock, does it feel like the pilings are loose? Are lashing straps tight around the floating platform? If you think “I should fix that,” then don’t wait. Plan to do it as soon as possible.

Keep it clean

Besides keeping your dock clear of debris, toys and loose gear, clean it. A stiff scrub brush with biodegradable soap or environmentally safe cleaning solutions like baking soda paste are usually effective, but a pressure washer makes the job easier. Remember that using a pressure washer can “burn” the wood if the spray nozzle is too close. Afterward, the wood will be softer and splinters will appear, so take a sander to the boards and smooth out the rough spots. Also, take time to sand out any rust spots on steel parts or supports.

Don’t forget to remove growth as well. Barnacles and other creatures, as well as plants, cause damage that can’t be seen until they’re removed. A putty knife usually does the trick, but scrub the area with an abrasive pad after removal to make sure.

Fix it

Don’t wait to make repairs. Murphy’s Law will find its way, and covering the dock with carpet or such only hides what will continue to get worse and cost more later. If there are damaged areas in a wood dock, use marine putty or wood filler to repair holes or splits. Replace screws or nails if they’re backing out, and if they are, evaluate if the board needs to be replaced. It doesn’t matter how much the dock is used; hardware will loosen and rust with weather, so regular dock maintenance is important. Lubricate moving pieces such as chains, and replace rusted parts when necessary.

Seal it

Wood docks, in particular, are vulnerable to the marine environment through moisture, sun and changing temperatures, so use only treated lumber. Once the dock is cleaned, repaired and sanded, apply a waterproof sealant that is environmentally friendly. There are sealants available that are low volatile organic compounds (VOC), but check local regulations before applying. If you remove the dock during the winter, allow the sealant to completely dry before installation.

Dress it up

Now that the dock is clean, safe and secure, trim the dock with a few accessories. Protect the boat from accidental bumps by attaching dock bumpers and rub rails. The areas that cause the most damage are the corners, and bumpers come in a variety of configurations and lengths as well as materials. They mount in a number of ways from along the
sides, corners, flush with the top, around pilings, and more.

Another safety feature is to add lights. “Docks and seawalls can be precarious and dangerous areas, and any additional lighting is beneficial for accident prevention,” says
Mick McDonald of Lumitec. “Lighting adds an additional level of security to your property to help protect expensive investments.” Lights also add ambiance to your dock and property and attract marine life to watch on a warm summer evening.

Chances are, your dock is used for a variety of activities as well as a place to store gear. If you inspect it regularly and keep it solid, clean and safe, it’ll be the perfect home for your boat and a great place to hang out for many seasons to come.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating March 2019

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Synthetic Teak

New synthetic teak decking keeps feet cooler.

The beauty of real teak wood on boat decks is undeniable, but look-alike decking made of synthetic teak substances has become a popular trend for many reasons.

Those reasons include its affordability, low maintenance, nonskid appeal, uniform appearance, and soft feel underfoot.

The downside has been its tendency to absorb heat, which makes the product uncomfortable for bare feet in southern boating locales that have continuous sun exposure (e.g. Florida). Technological improvements have enabled today’s product offerings to be cooler underfoot. They also to benefit greatly from the type of materials used, manufacturing processes, color options, and ease of installation.

Some DIYers may have the skills and patience to tackle installing new synthetic teak decking themselves. But an annual haul-out is the ideal time to add new decking to your boatyard’s project list.

If your boat is overdue for new decking, take a look at some of the hottest, cool-comfort synthetic teak decking offerings on the market.

Flexiteek

This company has offered synthetic teak boat decking material since 2000. Flexiteek is the OEM supplier for many boat builders and has distributors in 38 countries. The company’s newest advancement is Flexiteek 2G, which was in development for two years and is the
manufacturer’s “Next Generation of Decking” for its lighter weight and ability to cool 30 percent faster than traditional composite decking. Flexiteek comes in eight wood colors with black, white or gray caulking.
flexiteek.com 

Isiteek is made for DIY install on small areas.
isiteek.com

PlasDECK

PlasTEAK, Inc. introduced its synthetic boat decking PlasDECK in 2005. Its been popular ever since. With 25 colors and custom variations, the new PlasDECK Eco Series utilizes leftover scraps from manufacturing that are recycled for the bottom layer and makes the product even more affordable as well as eco-friendly.

PlasDECK Eco Series has an identical look and feel of the standard PlasDECK boat decking, but the family-owned, Made-in-America company passes on the manufacturing cost savings directly to the customer. Product cost is further reduced by offering it in large sheet form. This is advantageous for resurfacing large deck spaces like houseboats, pontoons or boats with large decks.

PlasDECK Eco Series won the Innovation Award at the 2018 Miami Boat Show. PlasDECK CoolTEAK remains cooler than other PVC decking materials, which makes it ideal for swim platforms. CoolTEAK is currently only available in premade mats from templates and is not for DIY applications.
plasdeck.com

Dek-king

Dek-king 2G is the company’s next-generation premium synthetic teak decking that’s 30 percent cooler underfoot and 32 percent lighter than previous 1G product offerings. Dek-king’s lifelike graining that differs between planks replicates natural wood to provide a finish that’s nearly indistinguishable from real teak.

Wilks is the British family-owned manufacturer and supplier of Dek-King synthetic teak decking. Flexiteek International announced in a press release earlier this year that an agreement has been reached to acquire Wilks, and the merger is planned to finalize later this year. Flexiteek plans to retain the Wilks manufacturing premises in Essex, northeast of London, England, along with all employees, combining the skillset of both companies to serve the international marine market.

The acquisition will facilitate the supply of synthetic teak and fendering to a list of OEM clients that include Royal Huisman, Hanse Group, Jeanneau Beneteau Group, Princess
Yachts, Gulf Craft, Sunseeker International, and X-Yachts.
dek-king.com

By L.N. Evans, Southern Boating March 2019

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Replace Your Enclosures

Replace Your Enclosures

Blurry or worn view? It may be time to replace your enclosures.

While under way, if you confuse a scratch on your boat’s enclosure with a buoy in the channel, then it’s time to repair or replace your acrylic, vinyl or another type of clear marine enclosure. The scheduled down period during haul-out or any time when convenient at a marine service yard gives the professional the time to do it right. Today, the choices of clear enclosures are myriad and include products made of acrylic, polycarbonate and vinyl.

As a material’s primer, acrylic enclosures are semirigid and include brands like EZ2CY. Polycarbonates fall under brands such as Makrolon, and clear vinyl includes CrystalClear, Regalite and Strataglass. Each has its own distinct attributes and applications.

Acrylic

In the sub-tropics like The Bahamas and South Florida, boats must endure high humidity and temperature swings, and that’s where acrylic works the best. Acrylic does not fade or yellow over time, and you can also buff out scratches. “EZ2CY is 80-gauge acrylic and it doesn’t roll, but is made to lift up,” explains Andy Flack, project manager for Canvas Designers in Riviera Beach. “The panels pin to the roof or the bridge when you don’t need them. Because of the thickness, it can withstand a lot more air pressure when under way and holds in the cool air if you use an air conditioner.”

For boats already equipped with EZ2CY enclosures, the refurbishing and buffing process during haul-out is simple. “Once at the yard, do an inspection and if it’s scratched, have
the yard take it out and send it to your EZ2CY dealer,” Flack recommends. “The dealer will have it buffed and polished, then hang it or store it and bring it back to the boat looking like new. Then it can be re-installed so it’s perfect when the boat comes out of the yard.”

Vinyl

Many boat owners need enclosures that can be rolled up out of the way, and that’s where clear vinyl works well. Clear uncoated vinyl is pliable so it’s easy to roll up, but users
must take care because it is easily scratched. Strataglass incorporates the scratch-resistant coating VueShield that helps reduce scratches. Uncoated vinyl is less expensive than coated vinyl, and both products must be handled carefully so they don’t become wrinkled or creased. In addition, vinyl will become yellow or hazy over time.

Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate enclosures like Makrolon are semirigid, so they can’t be rolled up and must be pinned or unzipped and removed. Scratch-resistant coatings are used to protect the surface. Polycarbonate can be expensive; however, it offers excellent visibility.  Polycarbonates are popular in northern climes and Great Lakes areas where the sun and
temperatures are not as extreme as in tropical climes. Because it’s a petroleum-based product, polycarbonate can yellow in tropical weather.

Maintenance

Once the new enclosures are in place, proper maintenance can help them last a long time. In the saltwater environment, the primary goal is to displace the saltwater by not using harsh chemicals. Soapy water is the strongest solution you should use because many cleaners use ammonia or alcohol, which will break down acrylic and cause it to haze and crack. Once that happens, you can’t buff it or sand it out. “Have a separate set of cleaning tools that don’t get used anywhere else on the boat,” Flack instructs. “You don’t want to pick up any dirt or debris on your cleaning tools that could harm the glass.”

Fasteners

How the enclosures are fixed to the boat is another choice that boat owners must make. Haul-out is also the time to service the zippers, Velcro and fabric borders on your enclosures. Fasteners such as slides, snaps and zippers are used with acrylic or vinyl products from companies like Sunbrella and Herculite.

Canvas Designers uses Stamoid, a dimensionally stable vinyl from Serge Ferrari. “We then connect the glass to the boat using a track-to-track application,” says Flack. “There
is a track in the hard top of the boat, and there is a track on the coaming of the flybridge. We sew a bolt rope on the top, and the panel on the bottom zips closed.”

Timing

How often you need to replace your enclosures depends on how often you use your boat. “Some people own boats that are 25 years old that don’t have 1,200 hours on them,” Flack says. “Some of the sportfishing boats are two years old and have 3,000 hours on them; they run them all over the world.”

Sportfishing boats that compete in international tournaments often experience a worn or broken enclosure in a foreign port, and that’s where it can get tricky when trying to repair or replace the panel. The ability to have a replacement shipped to your location is something to consider when purchasing enclosures. Computer-aided design (CAD)  software can store the measurements of your boat’s enclosures for just such a situation.

“If we put an enclosure on a 72 Viking here in Riviera Beach, it is also stored in CAD,” says Flack. “Then if they are down in the Dominican Republic or Puerto Rico and they absolutely tear a panel up, we can make that panel from a computer file. We can ship that panel down to them and be 100 percent confident that it will zip onto the boat.”

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating March 2019

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Which Marine Survey Do You Need for Your Boat?

At some point, you’ll need a marine survey. We break down the most common marine surveys.

Most boat owners will require a marine survey at some point, which can be conducted for any number of reasons. You can inspect your boat and do your own survey, but when it comes to insurance or resale, only a professional survey report is acceptable.

Here’s a rundown of the basic types of marine surveys, along with what to expect when the surveyor comes knocking.

Condition and value survey

This is the most comprehensive assessment a vessel will likely receive. A condition and value survey (C&V) provides clients with an informed, professional opinion of a vessel’s condition and fair market value. It includes an in-depth visual inspection of structural integrity, safety equipment, and all other miscellaneous onboard system s (electrical, propulsion, sanitation, potable water, navigation, etc.) as well as an out-of-water hull inspection and test run (aka sea trial).

The written report of a C&V survey provides detailed information on the vessel and contains a list of noted discrepancies or variations from the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) and National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) standards as well as deviations from U.S.C.G. requirements and prudent seamanship. The report will also contain a “Recommendations” section listing safety, maintenance and repair items that need to be addressed.

Insurance survey

An insurance survey is conducted to assist underwriters in determining a vessel’s condition and insurability for initial policy issuance or renewal. The primary focus of an insurance survey is structural integrity, safety and inspection of system installations as per NFPA and ABYC guidelines. Your safety gear is inspected and noted for compliance with federal requirements, and pertinent identification information is recorded for future reference, valuation, and claims adjustment.

In many cases and depending on the surveyor, the content and scope of a typical insurance survey’s written report is very similar to that of a C&V survey and provides detailed vessel information, discrepancies, and recommendations. The biggest difference is that, in some cases (typically policy renewal for an established client), underwriters will accept an “in-water” survey. Some surveyors see failure to haul and fully inspect the hull and equipment below the waterline as a liability both to them and the best interest of the client. As such, they may decline to conduct a survey (insurance or otherwise) where the vessel is not hauled for inspection.

Appraisal inspection

The appraisal inspection determines the fair market value of a vessel. Instances include: financing, estate settlements, donations, and legal cases (divorce, etc.). As the focus is to simply provide the surveyor’s overall impression of the vessel’s condition, an appraisal inspection is a less in-depth inspection compared to a C&V. The written report will contain basic vessel information, general comments on overall condition and estimated fair market value.

Damage survey

The purpose of a damage survey is to assess the extent of damage to the vessel in the event of an accident. Other items typically included: recommended repairs, estimated repair cost and determining probable cause. Boat owners beware: when you file a damage claim, the surveyor assigned by the underwriter will represent the insurance company’s interest, which may or may not coincide with yours.

Owners have the right to hire their own surveyor to inspect the damage and make recommendations as to repair methods and cost estimates. Depending on the policy, underwriters may even pay for this independent surveyor subject to deductibles and the validity of the claim.

Although we’ve listed the four basic types of surveys and defined the general scope and purpose of each, there is some blurring of the lines separating them. For example, a C&V survey (due to its depth and scope of inspection) can serve double or even triple duty: provide prospective buyers an assessment of a vessel and at the same time, satisfy financial and insurance requirements once the vessel is purchased.

Finding a surveyor

Marine surveys aren’t regulated or licensed by any governmental agency, so it’s important to research potential surveyors. Reputation, word-of-mouth recommendations, and sample survey reports are all part of the selection process. Membership organizations, such as the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors and the National Association of Marine Surveyors, are also good places to start your search.

Cost and Time

Marine survey prices vary depending on the survey requested, type of vessel, hull material, age, the complexity of the systems, and specific requirements for the survey. Surveys are billed by the job, by the hour or on a per-foot basis. Costs vary greatly, depending on the region.

Shop around to get a feel for the going rate in your area, but don’t base your decision solely on the lowest cost. Final selection should include a review of the surveyor’s experience, references, sample surveys, etc.

The length of a marine survey depends on a number of factors, including the type of survey required and prior preparation. An appraisal survey for a typical 40-foot production yacht may last only a few hours, while a condition and value survey for the same vessel (including haulout and sea trial) could easily take a full day.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating February 2019

Check your Clamps and Hoses

Check your clamps and hoses before they check out.

Hard slams and big bangs are conditions every mariner endures in rough seas—hopefully, it doesn’t take long to get to calmer cruising waters. However, while crew and passengers wrestle for stability, it’s a war down in the engine room. The constant vibration, high heat, and extremely hard knocks loosen hoses, clamps, belts, and screws, and equipment can fail. That’s why you need to check your clamps and hoses often.

Vigilance and repair can keep your boat’s engine running at peak performance. Keeping a close eye on your hoses and clamps is a good place to start. By inspecting these important connections on a regular basis—at least twice a year—you’ll make sure they are secure and keep the fluids circulating through the system and not into the engine room.

Cues to Use

“Look for visual clues that may indicate replacement is needed,” explains Mike Crites, senior product category manager, Shields Marine Hose at SeaStar Solutions. “Cracking, signs of leakage, bubbling up of the hose exterior, hose clamps digging into the hose layers, these are some of the most obvious ways to visually inspect.”

Because many hoses are equipped with a barrier layer that prevents chafing and abrasion of the hose’s internal layers, you can spot a potential problem before it starts leaking. Pay close attention to hoses in contact with other pieces of machinery for signs the barrier layer is being worn or damaged.

In general, hoses are considered “flexible” connections between two points. If a hose is rigid and appears to be brittle, it may be time to replace it. Also, most hoses have a date code in the imprinted line identifying the product. Material specifications can vary but pay attention to hoses with date codes older than seven years.

“Bottom line, if you question it, replace it,” Crites says. “Hoses are often overlooked and can easily sink a boat or create a hazardous situation. Proper selection, routing and inspection will prolong hose life and create a safe operating environment.”

Choosing the right type of replacement hose takes a bit of work. Don’t assume the old hose you need to replace was the right one for the job. “One rule applies: Match the hose to the application,” says Crites. “Never assume the guy before you knew what he was doing and installed the correct product. With new regulations always entering the industry, you want to be sure you are replacing with the most current and compliant product. It is the installer’s responsibility to know the applicable requirements and regulations.”

Words of Advice

Crites offers some advice and key questions to ask when it comes to hose replacement:

  • Is this application above or below the water line?
  • For a fuel hose, what type of fuel is it? Will fuel sit in the hose when not in use, or is this just a fill or tank-venting application?
  • Are there pressure or vacuum requirements for the application?
  • Do I need hose made from FDA-approved materials for potable and food applications?
  • For gasoline applications, are the lines certified to the latest low-permeation requirements?
  • Does the hose need to be Lloyds of London certified?
  • Is this a commercial vessel that can have unique hose requirements for U.S. Coast Guard inspection?
  • For sanitation hose, look at the difficulty in routing the hose and where the hose routing runs, such as under a cabin berth. If it’s difficult, spend the money on an ultra-low odor or odor-free hose. It’s worth the additional cost and your nose will thank you in the long run.
  • For clamps, 316-grade stainless steel is a top choice according to the ABYC standards under the P1 Exhaust Systems specification.

“ABYC says when connecting flexible exhaust hose to another engine component, the hose clamps need to be a minimum of a half-inch in width, made entirely of stainless steel. Clamps that rely solely on spring tension cannot be used,” says Crites. “Materials must also be resistant to saltwater corrosion along with not creating a source for galvanic corrosion. Because of its location on the galvanic table for sea water, 316 stainless clamps are very passive and are an excellent choice for the engine room.”

Clamp and Hose Misconceptions

Misconception #1

“If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Clamps require regular inspection. Check for signs of corrosion, loose clamps or over tightened clamps that could be cutting into the hose and be a future source of a failure or leak.

Misconception #2

“Any hose clamp will do.” Not true. Most people assume that hose clamps provide a 360-degree seal onto the hose. Some do, but many do not, and because of that, be sure you are utilizing the correct material, size and style of clamp for your application. For example, T-Bolt clamps provide a uniform, even seal and are an excellent choice for high-vibration, large-diameter hose applications like the exhaust system. The common worm-gear style clamp is good for low pressure, general connections, but do not provide 360-degree clamping pressure. Knowing the application and the requirements is key.

Misconception #3

“I checked and there was no leak.” Many times, a single hose clamp may provide a non-leak seal; however, the USCG, ABYC, NMMA, or SAE may have requirements or recommendations for the use of two hose clamps per connection end. In cases where two hose clamps are required, the tightening point on the clamps should be 180 degrees opposite to provide the best sealing method.

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating October 2018
Photo Credit, Steve D’Antonio Marine Consulting, Inc.

Maintenance Check

Time for a maintenance check. Don’t skip these oft-forgotten items

There’s a lot of terrestrial-based wisdom that just doesn’t ring true when it comes to boats. “Out of sight, out of mind,” “What you don’t know can’t hurt you” and “Let sleeping dogs lie” are all perfect examples of advice not to heed when planning your boat’s maintenance. In an effort to protect you from old wives and their tales, here are three often neglected items that can ruin your boating day quicker than stepping on a crack can cause you to cry over spilled milk. Just do a maintenance check.

Maintenance Check  #1: Anchor rode and connections

No matter what you enjoy doing on the water, there’s one need all boaters have in common: the ability to anchor safely and securely. Unfortunately, the other thing they often have in common is poorly maintained or unserviceable ground tackle.

The splice is NOT right.

While the anchor typically enjoys a place of prominence at the bow, the anchor rode is relegated to the dark, dank recesses of the anchor locker. In a nutshell, its purpose is to connect the boat to the anchor.

Most boats use a combination rode, which is simply a rope rode with a length of chain between it and the anchor. The chain protects the rope portion of the rode from chafe along rough seabeds and adds weight that increases horizontal pull and helps the anchor remain set. Three-strand nylon is most commonly used for anchor rode. It’s strong, provides more elasticity than a braided line (which absorb the sudden loads and jerks of a bouncing boat), is more easily spliced, and is less expensive.

Your anchoring system is only as strong as its weakest component, which includes not only the rode, but also shackles, splices, chains, mooring bitts, cleats, and, in short, any gear used to secure your boat while at anchor. Proper maintenance includes inspection of these items as well as pulling the rode from the anchor locker and inspecting it at least annually. Check rope rodes for wear, hard spots, cut strands, aging, discoloration, etc. Chafe is rope’s worst enemy, so you’ll also want to inspect hawseholes, chocks, cleats, and windlasses for burrs, sharp edges or anything else that can cause rope damage.

Maintenance Check #2: Stuffing box

Stuffing boxes (aka packing glands) are victims of their own reliability. They carry on so well with such little attention that many boat owners don’t realize they need regularly scheduled maintenance.

Warning: leaking stuffing box

The purpose of the stuffing box is to allow the propeller shaft to exit the hull while keeping water out. The shaft is sealed by compressing packing material against it, most often by using a hollow nut that screws onto the inboard side of the shaft tube or a tightening arrangement that uses a plate secured by nuts and studs on either side of the shaft. The more you tighten either type of gland, the more the packing material gets compressed against the shaft. Most packing consists of a square plaited material and comes either as traditional greased (or waxed) flax or a more modern version impregnated with Teflon.

Water helps lubricate the packing material, so it’s okay for a stuffing box to leak a few drips (three to four per minute) while the vessel is underway. More than that amount (say 10 drops per minute) or any drips while the shaft isn’t turning indicate the need for maintenance. A stuffing box leak can cause everything from corrosion (the spinning shaft slings excess water all over the engine compartment) to sinkings, particularly if the boat is left unattended in the water for long periods of time.

Maintenance Check #3: Packing Material

Packing material hardens over time (as the lubricant dries out) and gets worn away by shaft rotation, allowing water to pass and enter the vessel. When this happens, most boaters simply tighten the packing gland to compress the packing material and stop or reduce the leak. This works to a point; however, as the packing gets smaller, it also gets harder. Keep compressing it, and it will eventually score the propeller shaft, which will then have to be replaced before the stuffing box will seal properly.

The simplest answer here is to replace the packing material on a regular basis. This bit of routine maintenance should only take about 30 minutes and normally costs less for materials than you’d spend on a mocha-frappu-latte-whatever and a free-range muffin. How often you repack typically depends on the number of hours your boat is used. As the vessel has to be hauled, many owners simply repack annually as part of their haul-out or spring commissioning routine.

Maintenance Check #4: Fuel tank fill hose

You’d be hard-pressed to come up with a more out-of-sight, out-of-mind item than your fuel tank fill hose. Fill hoses are attached to the underside of the fuel fill fitting, connecting it to your fuel tank.

All hose has a limited lifespan, and fuel fill hose is no exception. Recommended replacement timeframes will vary between fuel hose manufacturers, but some call for replacement as often as every five years. The American Boat and Yacht Council standards also call for flexible fuel fill hose to be double clamped at each end with marine-grade stainless steel (if there is sufficient hose barb to allow it) as well as marked with the manufacturer’s name or trademark, year of manufacture and application on the outermost cover.

Access and inspect fuel tank fill hoses regularly for leaks and deterioration as part of your vessel’s maintenance program. Check that each end of the hose is double clamped and that the clamps are tight and free from corrosion. Replace older hose (regardless of appearance) as per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Story and photos by Frank Lanier, Southern Boating September 2018

Forget a makeover. Resurface!

Instead of a complete facelift, save yourself a bundle and resurface.

Compared to home interior design trends, boat and yacht owners can get by with the same interior design scheme for quite a while. Sometimes, eight years or more. If your fabrics are thread-bare, carpets are soiled and countertops are chipped, you can give your boat a mini makeover with just a simple resurface.

It may only involve replacing the surface coverings rather than a complete overhaul, which will save you a heap of money that’s better suited for fuel to cruise and food and beverages to keep the crew fed. And if you’re handy with tools, you can save even more money by doing some of the work yourself. Here are a few tips to freshen up your boat’s floors, counters and fabrics.

Counter intelligence

Were your boat’s old laminate countertops were used as a cutting board? Are they past the point of their reasonable usefulness? Good news– the replacement options are unlimited. One blog suggests painting old laminae to resurface.  No replacement needed.

There are even kits available that offer an end result similar to the look of granite but without the expense and weight. There are several downsides, however, to “repainting” countertop surfaces: extensive project preparation, product’s toxic smell, and fumes, length of time to cure, unsatisfactory end result or a satisfactory one that doesn’t last.

If countertop replacement is in your makeover budget but granite or marble is not, a laminate is a great option. Think Formica. Don’t let the company’s longevity fool you. Their product offerings come in a myriad of colors and patterns, finishes, solid surfacing, and decorative edging.

The company has even introduced Formica Writable Surfaces, a product line that encourages people to write on it. Forget about jotting down a reminder to the captain or crew—write it on the countertop! If you run out of paper for the kiddos to draw pictures while you’re cruising, set them up at the counter with a box of erasable markers or chalk and they’ll stay busy for hours. Formica Writable Surfaces can be used for countertops, cupboards, table tops, cabinets, walls. Really, just about anywhere. The surface is durable and impact and wear-resistant, easy to clean, and comes in two Chalkable surfaces and six ColorBook surfaces. formica.com

Air and sea

If you’re one of the many yacht owners who also own an aircraft and both could use some TLC, Scott Group Studio recently released their new luxury carpet collection inspired by cultural travel and movement, a fitting theme for both aviation and yachting. The entire collection is crafted in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Produced with a silk and wool blend that is customizable to interior cabin furnishings, each design reflects patterns one would see when traveling the world: ocean currents, terraced landscapes, glacial cracks, sand dunes and savannahs, and ancient drawings on rocks. Scott Group Studio will also make the collection available to residential design, so whether you’re in the air, at sea or on terra firma, you’ll also be at home. scottgroupstudio.com

Foot-worthy floors

There’s nothing like stepping on board a brand-new boat. Particularly, if the flooring is brand-new too. But if your boat’s floors are dingy or dated, replace them with the same products used by boat builders the likes of Grady-White, Tiara, Sea Ray, Chaparral, Bennington, Chris-Craft, and others.

For some, the word “vinyl” brings to mind outdated flooring, yellowed with age and few color options. But vinyl flooring has changed significantly and is one of the hottest trends in home and commercial construction and remodeling. Indeed, today’s choices run the gamut of designs that mimic natural materials, such as wood planks and stone surfaces, in an array of colors and textured appearances. Furthermore, advancements in manufacturing have made vinyl flooring not only a durable choice for boats but also one that enables owners to customize according to décor choices.

“What changed from traditional vinyl is the woven technology,” says Warren McCrickard, former vice president of corporate sales for Infinity Woven Products, a manufacturer of luxury woven vinyl (LWV) flooring. “Infinity is actually a vertically integrated product. We control the manufacturing process from raw to finished and ‘bake’ UV protection, antimicrobial, and stain resistance into the extruded yarn or coating of fibers. The woven technology gives all the benefits and texture, and we can offer a complete line of ornate designs and vibrant colors. They’re very durable and high-performing, but also are beautiful.”

According to user comments, LWV is also very comfortable underfoot, a breeze to clean and easy to install for do-it-yourselfers. Application options include gluing the product flat or binding the edges to lay loose or to be snap down. The flooring comes in 8’6″ and 10′ widths but can be easily seamed for larger floor dimensions. infinitylwv.com

Just sleep on it

A good night’s sleep can make a big difference when you’re cruising or fishing. Like your mattress at home, there are signs the one on your boat needs to be replaced. If you don’t feel rested, you wake up stiff or sore, or there’s a noticeable sag, it’s time. If your mattress is in good shape, new linens and pillows can make a world of difference.

Another attractive and easy décor addition to your stateroom? An attractive custom upholstered headboard. Austin Burkett, marine sales manager for Schrader Mattress, recommends headboards for boats up to 40-feet LOA use marine-grade fabric only. Today, marine-grade fabrics, such as Sunbrella, come in a wide variety of colors, prints, and patterns. For boats that have a continuous air conditioning system, Burkett says most any fabric will work. “We use Ultraleather and other brands of faux leathers as well as vinyls,” he says. schraderbeds.com

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating September 2018

Lose Onboard Weight

Once your boat is back in the water, don’t undo the good your yard has done by carrying around unnecessary weight in your storage compartments. Do some spring cleaning, empty out the closets and compartments, and get lose onboard weight.

Here’s the skinny on tips to help both your wallet and boat performance. Remember the slogan: Lighter boat = fatter wallet.

What’s the big deal over a few extra pounds? Your body can’t function at peak efficiency when lugging around a keg instead of six-pack abs, and your boat is no different. While the effects of excess weight are bad enough for full displacement hulls, the negative effects are even worse for faster boats with lighter, planing hulls. Boats are designed to perform their best with a specific payload in mind. An overweight boat rides low on her lines. This increases the wetted surface of the hull which, in turn, increases friction between the hull and water and reduces speed and fuel efficiency.

Lose the weight(s)!

 

Lighten your load.
If it’s time to put your boat on a diet, start to lose onboard weight by going through all cabinets, lockers and storage compartments to see what items you really need on board. The goal here is to ditch the excess weight while maintaining acceptable levels of equipment to maintain safety and comfort. Be realistic, and consider your near future boating plans when reviewing items to keep or purge. There’s no better place to start your boat diet than in the galley. Sure you’ve got enough pots, pans, and gadgets to cook a seven-course meal, but how often have you actually done so? The same thing goes for all those extra cooking supplies, canned goods and that bulk purchase 10-pound bag of sugar that was on sale. Will you actually use them anytime soon?

Books and boats just go together, but rather than maintaining a complete library on board, how about only bringing the ones you’ll need for one trip and keep the rest ashore? Better yet, download them to your iPad or Kindle to save even more weight.

Items that may seem inconsequential weight-wise can add up before you know it. Do you really need two dozen towels, three changes of bed linens, five blankets, and all those throw pillows? Go through your hanging lockers and see what clothes have actually been worn in the past year, and ask yourself if you really need five sun hats.

Next up, take a hard look at your engine and boat spares as well as maintenance items. You’ll want to make sure you have the prudent and proper amount of spares and tools on board, but unless you’re going on an extended cruise, remove those “just in case” duplicates or stock, such as extra oil, spare hardware, and rarely used tools; they can add up to significant weight savings. The same is true for routine maintenance items and cleaning supplies (paints, varnishes, shop vacs, and the like), which would be better stored in a dock box or at home until necessary.

Tanks for the idea.
Another great place to realize some huge onboard weight savings is your vessel’s tankage. You always want to have enough fuel on board, but if you’re doing shorter trips, why take on a full tank of fuel and lug around the extra weight? Buy only as much fuel as needed plus a bit of reserve, and avoid the temptation to burn extra fuel because you have a full tank. It may mean more trips to the fuel dock, but you’ll save money in the long run.

Employ a similar mindset when it comes to your water tanks. A gallon of water weighs more than eight pounds, so why drag around a full tank when you’re only going on a day trip? As any good plumber will tell you, “it ain’t just water that rolls downhill,” so what about that full holding tank? Pumping it after every trip will reduce both weight and unwanted smells.

Coolers and live wells present another opportunity. Why use 100 lbs. of ice if 50 lbs. will do, or why bring a case of sodas if you only drink four or five per trip? Keeping your live well empty unless you actually have bait seems like a no-brainer, but you’d be amazed by what some boat owners unthinkingly do out of sheer habit.

Balance what’s left.
Once you’ve removed all of that excess onboard weight, distribute the remaining gear to best balance the boat. This not only improves the ride but also saves fuel by allowing non-displacement boats to get up on a plane more quickly. Don’t be afraid to ask passengers to shift around to accomplish this, and, if installed, learn how to properly use trim tabs for maximum planing efficiency.

Keep the mindset.
Like any diet, once the weight is off, it’s easy to backslide and start packing it on again, especially when looking at all that empty storage space. Keep that rebound onboard weight gain in check by paying attention to all the stuff that tries to find its way back on board. It’s also a good idea to clean out your storage lockers at the beginning of each season to get rid of stuff you really don’t need. Keep the weight off, and both your boat and your wallet will thank you.

Ditch the parachute.
While not a weight reduction issue, boats with planing hulls can also improve their fuel economy by lowering their Bimini top while running. That big, shady top may be horizontal while at the dock, but it will be angled and act like a huge parachute while underway. Dropping it when running fast on longer trips and then raising it once you reach your destination will significantly improve your boat’s fuel efficiency.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating March 2018

 See more from the Annual Haul Out Guide

Ground Tackle: to refit or not to refit?

That is the question. The answer is that ground tackle is an essential component to boating.

As you prepare for the change in seasons, don’t forget to inspect a very important safety item—the ground tackle. “There are three safety things on board—a life jacket, fire extinguisher, and anchor,” says John Lynch, COO of Anchorlift in Cape Coral, FL. Lynch advises that when inspecting the anchor (particularly at the weld points) and chain, “Look to see if any of the galvanizations has been corrupted and if any rust has started to form in those areas where the galvanization has disappeared or rubbed off.”

The Skinny on Ground Tackle

Ground tackle that uses a combination of chain and rope can create rust where the rope is connected to the chain. This is because it rubs off the galvanization. Lynch suggests cutting the link attachedto the splice end and to reconnect the rode using a D-connecting link. This would be the only time he recommends using a connecting link and suggests using a thread lock product, such as Loctite, on the screw pin.

Rust is the worst enemy and may initially be cosmetic. A thorough cleaning along with an anti-corrosion coating will provide protection but only temporarily. Use a galvanizing compound spray for galvanized anchors and chain.  “Once corrosion starts, you can’t stop it,” says Lynch. The application of a coating doesn’t restore the anchor and chain, nor does the process return the ground tackle to its original strength. If the gear shows signs of pitting or flaking of the metal, or if the links appear thinner in width, then it’s time to replace it.

The Rode

When inspecting the anchor line, look for signs of abrasion, cuts, broken or frayed yarns, variations in strand size or shape, burns, dry rot, and even rust (on nylon). Look closely at splices. “A splice should be eight to ten inches back into itself,” says Lynch. He points out that the splice between rope and chain should be no larger than the link of the chain it’s attaching to. If it’s larger, it can easily jam in the windlass.

If necessary, Lynch recommends replacing the rode with either 8-strand nylon or double braid 8- to 24-plait polyester. “Three-strand nylon is inexpensive. But does not work well in a windlass because it’s slick, more so when wet,” explains Lynch. “Eight-strand nylon has better grip because of the weave, [and] double braid is smooth to the touch, holds up longer in a marine environment and gives terrific grip when going through a gypsy.”

The Windlass

“Windlasses are very forgiving, but they are abused endlessly. A little care pays dividends,” says Jonathan Neeves, published technical writer specializing in anchoring. If the rode or chain is slipping through the gypsy, “Check the clutch cones and make sure they are greased properly,” adds Lynch.

“Check the pressure fingers that provide the pressure put on the chain and rope so it grips going through the gypsy. Those are spring loaded, and sometimes the spring can wear out.” Check the motor and gearbox exterior to make sure no corrosion is forming, check the gearbox oil and check the electrical connections. If there’s corrosion, terminals are loose or wire jackets are compromised, follow Lynch’s directions.  “Fix it, don’t patch it,” Lynch recommends. “Replace it.”

“A major issue is that many windlasses are commonly made from a cross-section of metals. The bolts are usually stainless with the castings aluminum,” says Neeves. He suggests checking the original installation, and subsequent servicing that the stainless bolts are isolated from the alloy with some form of protection, such as Duralac.

The Locker

A clean anchor and chain won’t last long if the anchor locker is a mess. “Unblock the drain hole,” says Neeves. “If the locker drain is above the locker base, make sure your chain does not sit in a puddle of water, or worse, mud. … Some muds are anaerobic and will be acidic which will corrode the galvanizing off the chain. Wash the locker out with fresh water as often as possible as it’s commonly full of salt. If sitting in the sun, the perfect condition for accelerated corrosion.”

The anchor system is an important safety feature. Care for ground tackle properly. Remember, it keeps you attached to the seabed floor while fishing, diving or weathering out a storm.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating March 2018

See more from the Annual Haul Out Guide

Spare Parts to Keep Aboard

The Spare Essentials: Pack properly for potential problems and keep these spare parts aboard

Every boating adventure promises an amalgam of excitement, relaxation, mistakes, and mishaps. Rarely does something not go wrong; it’s a truism every boat owner knows from experience. That’s why extra fluids and impellers—and a handheld VHF radio that’s always
charged—can save the day in remote locales where help from other boat owners or towboats is lacking.

“I take those big containers you get at Home Depot and fill it full of spare parts, and then I make a list of what’s inside,” says Perera, who runs his 54-foot cruising boat to The Bahamas two or three times a year. “We started going over there in 1999 and have been all over The Bahamas, from the Abacos to the Exumas.” Having the proper tools to make the changes—such as an oil filter wrench—is also important. “It’s practice at the dock so you know how to use your tools,” Perera quips. “That way when you get out there you know what to do with those tools.”

Expect the Unexpected

Perhaps the weakest link on the boat is the impellers, the muscles inside raw-water pumps. Having a spare impeller for every pump can be invaluable in an emergency. Debris that clogs the raw-water supply can cause engine overheating, and the impeller can implode. “Again, you need to know how to replace impellers and that takes practice,” Perera affirms. “If you can’t do it if you are at the dock, you can find someone who can.” Bad impellers will have cracking where the vanes are at the base, or the tips will show damage. Because they are inexpensive—and you have a spare—if there is a question
then always change the impeller.

Quickly removing raw water from the bilge can also help save the boat in an emergency, and that’s where an extra external water pump comes in handy. You don’t want standing water or fluids in your boat, and again, any fluid is a sign that something is wrong. “Extra belts for your generator and engines are good to carry,” Perera adds. “Belts don’t weigh much and you can stock a full replacement set. Also, have a way to jump-start your battery, and if you have to plug a leak or slap some stuff together, 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant 5200 is good to have. It’s also nice to have extra light bulbs in case one goes out, and extra coolant for the engines.”

Think Again

Some boat owners carry extra propellers or even an extra anchor, but Perera says the extra weight of anchors and propellers makes it impractical to carry a spare. “Spare props
for my boat weigh 500 pounds, and carrying it around burns a lot of extra fuel,” Perera states. “Good luck trying to get three guys to wrestle that out of a compartment, off the boat and then put the spare propeller on. It’s a lot of weight to carry for a very
low probability. And with an anchor, again, that’s a lot of weight to carry, and then you
have to know how to splice it and put the anchor line together again.”

Some items, such as life jackets and flares are more than spare parts, they’re must-haves. “If you are going to do long-range boating, then have the Type I life jackets with the whistle and the light,” Perera recommends. “You will also want a life raft that is certified annually, and make sure your flares are up to date.” Emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs) and personal location devices (PLBs) are among many products available that can save lives when catastrophe strikes.

Heir and a Spare

While not counted as spares, it’s important to make sure these valuable electronics are in working condition.“With the EPIRB all you have to do is flip the switch and airplanes and ships can locate your position within five feet. It’s a piece of safety equipment that’s not a spare but a requirement in my opinion.”

In the end, while spare parts can improve the odds of surviving an accident at sea, it’s never completely safe at sea. A boat owner and his crew may have a decent blueprint
about how to create and implement an emergency procedure, and Plan A is having such a procedure and protocol in place but never having to use it. That’s because you arrive at your destination safely, with time to spare.

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating January 2018

Nautic9 Fenders

Nautic9 Fenders save space on board with inflatable and collapsible fenders from 9- to 48-inch diameters of varying lengths. Fenders are constructed with UV treated, ultrasonic heat welded, 1.2-millimeter PVC, and the Nautic9 Fenders inflate and deflate in just minutes. Look for their new and innovative, 90-degree corner fender at the Palm Beach International Boat Show.

MSRP of the 14-inch diameter fender for boats sized 25-55 feet is $110

nautic9fenders.com

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