Clear the Air

Clear the air after months of layup when marine sanitation systems and air-conditioning ducts may be filled with stale, foul air. Ridding the boat of trapped odors ranges from the first step of simply flinging open all the doors, ports and hatches, to inspecting and cleaning the wastewater lines and holding tank with eco-friendly treatments, and installing an air filtration system.

A physical inspection of sanitation lines, valves and vented loops ensures there isn’t a major problem brewing. The sanitation system may have been neglected and not properly winterized, so it’s important to start off fresh. “Over the course of the boating season and in down time the vent valve can get stuck, an air pocket gets trapped and the head won’t work,” says Dale Weatherstone, Raritan’s managing director of Fort Lauderdale operations. “Check your discharge line vented loops to make sure the valves are functioning correctly. The lubricant used may be silicone-based, which is awful for valves. What you want is a Teflon-based kind of grease. Also, if you can increase the ventilation within your holding tank, do so. Most boats have three-eighths or half-inch lines, but one-inch vent lines are recommended.”

Raritan makes three biodegradable, non-toxic liquid treatments that can help rid the boat of sanitation odors: K.O. for holding tanks, C.P. for cleaning the head, and C.H. for cleaning lines and hoses. “K.O. helps facilitate the breakdown of solids to make pump-out easier,” Weatherstone says. “When re-commissioning, start with that prescribed mixture and then the boat is ready when people start using the heads. The aerobic bugs in K.O. consume the anaerobic foul-smelling bugs in the holding tank and break the solids down to more liquid contents, and that eliminates odors.”

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Raritan’s C.P. is a bio-enzymatic treatment for cleaning the head and works in conjunction with K.O. Raritan’s C.H. cleans up the hoses and holding tank by removing calcium carbonate that builds up from using salt or brackish water for raw-water flush toilets. “The calcium carbonate buildup gets so bad a one-and-a-half-inch discharge line can have the opening the size of a pencil,” Weatherstone explains. “C.H. dissolves that and eliminates it.”

While you are checking the boat’s internal lines and valves, it’s a relief to finally air out the boat after months of layup. The saloon, cabins and heads may be musty from the lack of fresh air, so on a nice day open everything and let the breeze flow through. However, unpleasant cooking odors, molds, viruses, and more can fester and linger, and Dometic’s In-Duct Breathe Easy Purifier can help.

In-Duct Breathe Easy can be installed anywhere within the air conditioning system’s ducting. Cut into the ductwork at the desired location, insert the Breathe Easy tube and re-connect the ducting (it is available in all common duct diameters). Dometic recommends installing it in a section of the ducting that’s easily accessible for servicing, as the UV bulb must be replaced annually. The Breathe Easy works silently within the ductwork using the air conditioning system’s blower to move air through the purifier.

Air-purification systems utilize the purification power of UV light, and it is important to make sure the system’s UV light does not produce ozone. Ozone—an unstable molecule—creates free radicals that may irritate the lungs and deteriorate rubber seals. The UV bulb in Dometic’s Breathe Easy air purifier operates at a frequency that does not produce ozone.

UV light sterilizes biological contaminants that pass close to it and also activates the photocatalytic coating inside the purification device. Biological or chemical contaminants that come in contact with the coating are molecularly reconfigured into harmless elements such as water vapor or carbon dioxide. For best results, boat owners should consider systems that maximize air contact with both the UV light and the photocatalytic coating.

By Don Minikus, Southern Boating March 2014

Shaft Seal Maintenance

Shaft seal maintenance should be part of your boat’s regular check-up.

Ever since the first prop was connected to the first shaft being turned by the first internal combustion engine, there has always been the dilemma of how to keep water from entering a boat through that all-important hole in the hull while also protecting the rapidly spinning shaft from the ravages of friction.

If your boating years go back as long as mine, you are familiar with the steady dripping of the practical, always carefully attended-to stuffing box. This most important piece of gear housed a series of packing rings—numbering three to five and often made of braided flax rope—coated with a waterproof material, and allowed the shaft to pass through the hull and keep turning while under power. It also prevented the water from getting in and flooding the bilges. Once properly tightened down by a collar, the rings were compressed enough to allow a few drops of water every minute or so to “leak” in, permitting the shaft and the packing to be cooled enough to prevent scoring the metal surface or “burning” the packing.

But as with all things in the marine industry, a change was due. Enter the dripless shaft system. Utilizing highly machine-polished, mechanical mating surfaces held together by pressurized tension on a rubber bellows surrounding them and a hose connection between the intake side of the engine’s raw water pump and the device, they have become the familiar norm in most applications.

One of the big downstream concerns associated with the old stuffing boxes was one created when there was a more than acceptable raw water flow. Sprayed outward by the spinning shaft, the ensuing salty mist would, of course, hasten corrosion to any metal it landed on. With a fully encased design, shaft seals alleviate this problem.

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“We were most likely the first to use a rubber lip seal lubricated by raw water from the engine, replacing the traditional packing,” says Tides Marine engineering and quality control manager Skip Lookabaugh.

Overheating the housing can be trouble. In most cases, this is caused when air is allowed to accumulate inside due to most inboard engine drive shafts being installed on an angle, thus creating bubbles that can travel up the shaft. Dripless systems use the pressurized lubrication water to force any air out.

Dirt and grit can get sucked up if you run aground or operate in shallow, sandy bottom areas. And watch out for fishing line as well. “As with all devices with moving parts, if you notice a slight leak that steadily increases over time, you might want to check inside,” Lookabaugh adds. Prevention includes examining the lubrication system, hoses, clamps, and pump on a semiannual basis. Lookabaugh also recommends changing the lip seals on Tides’ equipment every five or six years.

Lou Foster, Duramax’s vice president of sales, also offers some maintenance insight and highly recommends regular visual inspections, especially if you have had any work done in the shaft area where someone could have stepped on the seal. With boats that have been sitting idle, there could be scale, sea growth or some other debris present. “Also, and while it should never happen, a noticeable bulge in the outer yellow bellows indicates something is causing the inner one to leak and should be taken care of,” Foster recommends.

“While we do have tolerances built in to allow for some misalignment and vibration, the main problem most boat owners would face occurs when something hits the running gear and really throws things out of whack,” explains Justin Romesburg, director of international sales for PSS. Therefore, should there be any alignment or vibration question, it is highly recommended that you have your shaft seal checked as well.

The shaft seal systems on the market today are rather robust and will have a fairly extended longevity with regular and diligent preventive maintenance. Should you have any questions about your particular dripless shaft seal, it’s best to get in touch with the manufacturer and have it serviced. Keeping your boat on top of the water depends on it.

By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating March 2014

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