Install a Stereo on Your Boat

Everyone likes tunes while on the water, but if your boat didn’t come with a factory-installed stereo, you don’t have to suffer the sound of silence. Let’s take a look at what’s involved to install a stereo on your boat.

Stereo receiver

When choosing a stereo to install on your boat, you need to consider both the unit and mounting options. Back in the day, the standard stereo was a 7×2-inch box that included a CD player. Today’s trends are stereos designed exclusively to play music from strictly digital media sources: MP3 players, iPods, and smartphones. As no CD player is required, the design and size of today’s stereos vary greatly from traditional units, and most have a smaller cutout.

Back in the day, stereos on your boat took up a lot more space.

The “black box” type of stereos add yet additional dimension to the mix. These units consist of a small box housing the amplifier, radio and all the wiring connections. They’re controlled by a waterproof, hockey puck shaped, wired remote that’s mounted in a convenient location (helm, swim platform, etc.).

These remote units can also be sized to fit easily into a dashboard to take up less real estate at the helm. When shopping for a new stereo, you might logically assume that all “marine” stereos are waterproof, but surprisingly, that’s not the case. Some units are fully waterproof, but others may be splash resistant or waterproof only when the faceplate is sealed. Partially waterproof units can have an open chassis that is prone to water intrusion should moisture find its way past the faceplate gasket. Thoroughly read the information on any potential stereo purchase to ensure you know just how protected it is against moisture.

Unless the unit is completely waterproof, you’ll want to choose a dry location for your stereo that provides as much protection against the elements as possible. Dry may be a relative term for smaller, open boats (center consoles and the like), but even then, there will be some locations that provide better protection than others. When you install a stereo on your boat, choose a waterproof stereo or remote control. It’s always a good option, especially when mounting choices are less than ideal.

Speakers

Speakers will either be flush mounted or box speakers, both of which have their own set of pros and cons. Flush-mount speakers can be installed in tight, out-of-the-way spaces and present a cleaner looking installation. As to downsides, they require you to cut a hole in your boat to install. For best frequency response, flush-mount speakers must have sufficient air space around the cone. You also don’t want an open-air path behind the speaker, which can reduce the bass response. The speaker installation instructions should spell out minimal space requirements and other such requirements for best performance.

Box speakers are an attractive option for a number of reasons. They don’t require you to cut holes for mounting, and the box enclosure is already designed and set for optimal performance. This means you don’t have to worry about the required air space around the speaker. The only real downside to box speakers is that they take up more space than flush-mount units.

Speaker position

When planning to install a stereo on your boat, keep in mind that speakers are directional, meaning they project sound in the direction they are pointed. As such, you want them to be directed to where your ears will be. This isn’t as critical in your car or home because there are numerous surfaces for the sound to bounce off of, but when they ate installed in an open boat, the sound they produce can easily be lost.

Make sure your speakers are angled so that the music is possible to hear.

Select speaker locations that not only optimize sound but also minimize exposure to water as much as possible. Stereo sound is way better than mono sound, so choose locations that allow you to hear at least two speakers at the same time. Otherwise, you’ll only be getting half of the
music experience.

Before you cut the hole

You’ve chosen an ideal location for the stereo, but is it really all that? Take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk through it to head off any potential problems. For example, you’ve found the perfect spot for the stereo or remote head, but is there a path to run the control cable or wire bundle? You’ll also want to be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mounting location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables or even the hull itself is never conducive to a good stereo install.

This mental walk-through also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job and prevent extra trips to the chandlery. For many, the most daunting part of any stereo installation is routing the wires and cabling. It doesn’t have to be that way, however, if you plan the run first and have the proper tools. One of the handiest tools for pulling wires and cables is an electrician’s “fish tape” or wire snake. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and bends. Those made of tempered wire are commonly used, although newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also popular.

Regardless of the one you choose, you’ll want to be able to twist the snake to better make turns and bends, reducing or eliminating the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation.

Installing a stereo system is a satisfying day or weekend project that’s within the ability of most any DIYer. Just take a little time to plan out the installation beforehand to help ensure you’ll enjoy the sweet sound of success for years to come.

Cable Pulling 101

When pulling wire or coax, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to reduce friction. This approach puts less stress on the wire while reducing the chances of tears or damage to insulation or wiring.
When using a snake, feed it through first with nothing attached, then attach the cable or wire bundle to the end of the snake and pull everything back through slowly. Make this attachment as small as possible for easier pulling (covering the joint with a few tight wraps of electrical tape will make it more streamlined).
When pulling larger wire bundles, stagger the wires where attached to the snake, which both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling wire or coax to assist with future installations.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating January 2019

Need more marine stereo equipment?

Synthetic Teak

New synthetic teak decking keeps feet cooler.

The beauty of real teak wood on boat decks is undeniable, but look-alike decking made of synthetic teak substances has become a popular trend for many reasons.

Those reasons include its affordability, low maintenance, nonskid appeal, uniform appearance, and soft feel underfoot.

The downside has been its tendency to absorb heat, which makes the product uncomfortable for bare feet in southern boating locales that have continuous sun exposure (e.g. Florida). Technological improvements have enabled today’s product offerings to be cooler underfoot. They also to benefit greatly from the type of materials used, manufacturing processes, color options, and ease of installation.

Some DIYers may have the skills and patience to tackle installing new synthetic teak decking themselves. But an annual haul-out is the ideal time to add new decking to your boatyard’s project list.

If your boat is overdue for new decking, take a look at some of the hottest, cool-comfort synthetic teak decking offerings on the market.

Flexiteek

This company has offered synthetic teak boat decking material since 2000. Flexiteek is the OEM supplier for many boat builders and has distributors in 38 countries. The company’s newest advancement is Flexiteek 2G, which was in development for two years and is the
manufacturer’s “Next Generation of Decking” for its lighter weight and ability to cool 30 percent faster than traditional composite decking. Flexiteek comes in eight wood colors with black, white or gray caulking.
flexiteek.com

Isiteek is made for DIY install on small areas.
isiteek.com

PlasDECK

PlasTEAK, Inc. introduced its synthetic boat decking PlasDECK in 2005. Its been popular ever since. With 25 colors and custom variations, the new PlasDECK Eco Series utilizes leftover scraps from manufacturing that are recycled for the bottom layer and makes the product even more affordable as well as eco-friendly.

PlasDECK Eco Series has an identical look and feel of the standard PlasDECK boat decking, but the family-owned, Made-in-America company passes on the manufacturing cost savings directly to the customer. Product cost is further reduced by offering it in large sheet form. This is advantageous for resurfacing large deck spaces like houseboats, pontoons or boats with large decks.

PlasDECK Eco Series won the Innovation Award at the 2018 Miami Boat Show. PlasDECK CoolTEAK remains cooler than other PVC decking materials, which makes it ideal for swim platforms. CoolTEAK is currently only available in premade mats from templates and is not for DIY applications.
plasdeck.com

Dek-king

Dek-king 2G is the company’s next-generation premium synthetic teak decking that’s 30 percent cooler underfoot and 32 percent lighter than previous 1G product offerings. Dek-king’s lifelike graining that differs between planks replicates natural wood to provide a finish that’s nearly indistinguishable from real teak.

Wilks is the British family-owned manufacturer and supplier of Dek-King synthetic teak decking. Flexiteek International announced in a press release earlier this year that an agreement has been reached to acquire Wilks, and the merger is planned to finalize later this year. Flexiteek plans to retain the Wilks manufacturing premises in Essex, northeast of London, England, along with all employees, combining the skillset of both companies to serve the international marine market.

The acquisition will facilitate the supply of synthetic teak and fendering to a list of OEM clients that include Royal Huisman, Hanse Group, Jeanneau Beneteau Group, Princess
Yachts, Gulf Craft, Sunseeker International, and X-Yachts.
dek-king.com

By L.N. Evans, Southern Boating March 2019

Return to the Haul Out Guide

Which Marine Survey Do You Need for Your Boat?

At some point, you’ll need a marine survey. We break down the most common marine surveys.

Most boat owners will require a marine survey at some point, which can be conducted for any number of reasons. You can inspect your boat and do your own survey, but when it comes to insurance or resale, only a professional survey report is acceptable.

Here’s a rundown of the basic types of marine surveys, along with what to expect when the surveyor comes knocking.

Condition and value survey

This is the most comprehensive assessment a vessel will likely receive. A condition and value survey (C&V) provides clients with an informed, professional opinion of a vessel’s condition and fair market value. It includes an in-depth visual inspection of structural integrity, safety equipment, and all other miscellaneous onboard system s (electrical, propulsion, sanitation, potable water, navigation, etc.) as well as an out-of-water hull inspection and test run (aka sea trial).

The written report of a C&V survey provides detailed information on the vessel and contains a list of noted discrepancies or variations from the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) and National Fire Prevention Association (NFPA) standards as well as deviations from U.S.C.G. requirements and prudent seamanship. The report will also contain a “Recommendations” section listing safety, maintenance and repair items that need to be addressed.

Insurance survey

An insurance survey is conducted to assist underwriters in determining a vessel’s condition and insurability for initial policy issuance or renewal. The primary focus of an insurance survey is structural integrity, safety and inspection of system installations as per NFPA and ABYC guidelines. Your safety gear is inspected and noted for compliance with federal requirements, and pertinent identification information is recorded for future reference, valuation, and claims adjustment.

In many cases and depending on the surveyor, the content and scope of a typical insurance survey’s written report is very similar to that of a C&V survey and provides detailed vessel information, discrepancies, and recommendations. The biggest difference is that, in some cases (typically policy renewal for an established client), underwriters will accept an “in-water” survey. Some surveyors see failure to haul and fully inspect the hull and equipment below the waterline as a liability both to them and the best interest of the client. As such, they may decline to conduct a survey (insurance or otherwise) where the vessel is not hauled for inspection.

Appraisal inspection

The appraisal inspection determines the fair market value of a vessel. Instances include: financing, estate settlements, donations, and legal cases (divorce, etc.). As the focus is to simply provide the surveyor’s overall impression of the vessel’s condition, an appraisal inspection is a less in-depth inspection compared to a C&V. The written report will contain basic vessel information, general comments on overall condition and estimated fair market value.

Damage survey

The purpose of a damage survey is to assess the extent of damage to the vessel in the event of an accident. Other items typically included: recommended repairs, estimated repair cost and determining probable cause. Boat owners beware: when you file a damage claim, the surveyor assigned by the underwriter will represent the insurance company’s interest, which may or may not coincide with yours.

Owners have the right to hire their own surveyor to inspect the damage and make recommendations as to repair methods and cost estimates. Depending on the policy, underwriters may even pay for this independent surveyor subject to deductibles and the validity of the claim.

Although we’ve listed the four basic types of surveys and defined the general scope and purpose of each, there is some blurring of the lines separating them. For example, a C&V survey (due to its depth and scope of inspection) can serve double or even triple duty: provide prospective buyers an assessment of a vessel and at the same time, satisfy financial and insurance requirements once the vessel is purchased.

Finding a surveyor

Marine surveys aren’t regulated or licensed by any governmental agency, so it’s important to research potential surveyors. Reputation, word-of-mouth recommendations, and sample survey reports are all part of the selection process. Membership organizations, such as the Society of Accredited Marine Surveyors and the National Association of Marine Surveyors, are also good places to start your search.

Cost and Time

Marine survey prices vary depending on the survey requested, type of vessel, hull material, age, the complexity of the systems, and specific requirements for the survey. Surveys are billed by the job, by the hour or on a per-foot basis. Costs vary greatly, depending on the region.

Shop around to get a feel for the going rate in your area, but don’t base your decision solely on the lowest cost. Final selection should include a review of the surveyor’s experience, references, sample surveys, etc.

The length of a marine survey depends on a number of factors, including the type of survey required and prior preparation. An appraisal survey for a typical 40-foot production yacht may last only a few hours, while a condition and value survey for the same vessel (including haulout and sea trial) could easily take a full day.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating February 2019

Planning Your ICW Trip

Take the time to enjoy the road less traveled when planning your ICW trip.

When it comes to cruising the ICW, the oft-quoted phrase “getting there is half the fun” is apropos. From historic towns and peaceful anchorages to big city bustle and vibrant nightlight, there’s so much to see and do along its 1,100-mile length that you’d be hard-pressed not to find something enjoyable for every member of the crew. Here is some helpful information on planning your ICW trip.

However, keep in mind that entering a new anchorage or harbor after a long day on the ICW is exciting, it can also carry a considerable amount of stress, particularly if entered at dusk or in less than ideal weather conditions. There are navigational issues to contend with as well as all the other need-to-know answers once you arrive.

Where’s the best place to anchor or the location of that recommended marina? Where can I get supplies or buy fuel? If tonight is all-you-can-eat ribs night at Hawg Heaven Restaurant, is there a dinghy dock or public shore access nearby so the crew can get their pork on?

Plan, Plan, Plan

The answers and the key to safe and less stressful journey is proper planning for your ICW trip, which starts with the most up-to-date ICW guidebooks and charts for the area and studying them well in advance.

Every extended ICW trip should include a general timeline and list of the desired stops to make along the way, but it’s the day-to-day progress that should actually drive the schedule.

I always plan out the next day’s run prior to heading out, typically the night before, which also gives me a chance to review the latest weather forecasts and their potential effects on my travel plans.

When you plan the next day’s run, comb through the charts and guidebooks, and note things like marina locations, possible anchorages, bridge or lock schedules, and potential ICW trouble spots, such as shoals, sunken vessels, disabled lights, markers, etc. Know these things ahead of time to help generate both peace of mind and a more enjoyable trip. Include contingency plans for anchorages or stopovers in case you are delayed or, in some cases, if you make better than expected time and decide to push on a bit further.

Nightly Routine

Part of my nightly routine is to trace the route for the next day’s run and review notes and comments provided on online apps and programs (see sidebar), such as Garmin’s Active Captain, a popular interactive online cruising guide. Programs such as this can be a very useful tool as long as you take into consideration the double-edged-sword nature of the comments themselves.

The author runs through his itinerary the night before.

Be aware that generic reports of a “great” anchorage with plenty of water or statements like “We ran aground here!” don’t do you much good if the poster fails to include basic info such as their boat’s draft, the state of the tide, etc. Facility reviews should also be viewed with a grain of salt at times: “The dock master hates Algerian Snaggle-tooth Poodles (like our Fluffy) so we’re never coming back and you shouldn’t either!”

In addition to weather, the number of miles I plan for each day depends on a variety of factors, from distances between suitable anchorages to towns or areas I want to visit. Depending on your draft, tide schedules will also play a major role when transiting known shallow spots.

Many ICW cruisers become destination driven and hurry to get from point A to point B as quickly as possible. Time and schedules are a major factor here, but my philosophy is that the trip itself is just as important and should, therefore, be as enjoyable as the destination.

Be Reasonable When Planning Your ICW Trip

On my vessel’s average speed of six knots, I typically plan for a run of around 40 statute miles each day. Viewing my trip as a whole, this allows me to progress along the ICW at a reasonable clip but also provides stopover days for rest, sightseeing, weather delays, etc. Although I experience shorter and longer daily runs (60 to 70 miles in some cases), 40 miles is a good average for my boat and one that provides additional time to arrive at my planned destination before dark should unexpected delays crop up.

I don’t like traveling the ICW at night because I often travel solo. I’ve done it before (both as a recreational boater and while in the U.S. Coast Guard), but it adds a whole new level of stress and unnecessarily increases the chances of getting lost, running aground or having an accident.

Take Breaks

Finally, I also try to schedule one layover day for every three to four travel days—more if I’m someplace nice with a lot to see and do. These layover days provide time to catch up on boat chores as well as allow me time to simply decompress and enjoy the journey on my way to the destination.

Useful Sites

Active Captain
activecaptain.garmin.com

Dozier’s Waterway Guide
waterwayguide.com

Navionics
navionics.com

Richardson’s Maptech
richardsonscharts.com

Tips for the Intercoastal Waterway

Always keep a sharp lookout for “prop inspectors” (floating logs, branches, other debris), particularly when transiting narrow channels and canals. The same goes for other hazards, such as crab pots, which can be found anywhere.
Always have your anchor ready to deploy at a moment’s notice.
Always monitor VHF channel 16 (general hailing and distress) and if possible, channel 13 (bridge to bridge).
When anchoring, the key is to be seen. Use an appropriate anchor light; however, they can be difficult to see, particularly if located atop the mast of a sailboat. I purchased a 12-inch neon light bar from an auto parts store and hang it in the cockpit as well to increase visibility to others.
Make marina reservations ahead of time, preferably a day or two in advance if your schedule is accurate enough. At a minimum, I like to call the morning of my projected arrival day to confirm.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating November 2018

Security Tips For Your Boat

Thief-proof your boat with these security tips

While most folks envision Black Beard or Captain Kid when marina Tiki-bar talk turns to piracy, theft and other such acts of waterborne skull-duggery, I think of my childhood mentor Sissaro Phillips and his small marina where the bait shack store had a rash of break-ins. His plan of action? A hand-written, cardboard sign in the window that stated he’d be waiting in the store three nights a week with a shotgun full of rock salt—it was up to the burglars to guess which three nights. While that’s not quite the end-all-be-all of security tips, it sure worked for him.

Boat theft is on the rise and while most of us can’t keep a shotgun-toting vigilante on board, there are simple, common-sense precautions every boat owner can take to reduce the chances of their boat being targeted by thieves.

Think Like a Thief

Take a walk in a thief’s shoes and case your own boat during the day and at night. First off, never leave your keys on board with the vessel unattended or worse yet, leave the engine running while making that quick run to the marina store. If you have to make it accessible for maintenance or repair personnel, provide a temporary access code (for boats with advanced security systems) or a combination padlock.

Is it in a dark, poorly lit section of the dock or marina? If so, you may want to relocate or ask the marina manager about additional lighting. How hard would it be to break into your boat? Can all doors and hatches be secured? Beef things up, and replace screws with through-bolts and metal backing plates where possible, especially where hinge or hasp screws are exposed to the outside.

Can hatch hinge pins be removed from the outside? If so, make sure there’s a sufficient number of dogs to firmly secure it (at least two and preferably four). Sliding glass doors and windows may have a wimpy latch of some sort, but simply placing a wooden dowel in the track channel behind the glass is a great anti-theft measure.

Don’t Forget Insurance

An essential part of your overall anti-boat theft strategy is to make sure you have adequate insurance coverage, but don’t view it as a substitute for proper security measures. Although you might get some new gear out of the deal, when you consider the downsides (higher premiums, increased deductibles, downtime, and aggravating paperwork), it’s best to prevent theft from occurring in the first place. That’s especially sage advice when underwriters may cancel policies with a loss history.

You can implement many common-sense anti-theft precautions at little or no expense. But, installing a new security system is an option that may be less financially painful than you think. This is especially true as many insurance underwriters offer sizable discounts to boaters that have acceptable security systems installed.

Install a Security System

The most simplistic of our security tips? A security system. There is a wide variety of security and monitoring systems on the market today that are both easy to install and relatively inexpensive. For example, the new ZigBoat from Glomex Marine Antennas USA connects to the Internet (via local Wi-Fi or the optional 3G USB dongle) to provide wireless remote monitoring of your boat’s systems as well as security functions.

ZigBoat’s basic kit (priced around $635) consists of a core module (gateway), a porthole/door sensor, a battery voltage sensor, a high-water sensor, and batteries for each. The gateway gathers and processes information from each of the sensors and sends a notification to your smartphone or tablet if something is awry. Installation is simple. Power to the gateway is provided by a DC to DC converter wired into your boat’s 12 or 24 VDC system. Place the gateway in a central location to “see” all the sensors installed. The sensors mount with pressure-tape, adhesive or screws at their designated location, be it at the battery bank, bilge, windows, or doors.

The sensors to alarm you that thieves may be on board are the porthole/door sensor includes a magnet that triggers the alarm when separated from the sensor. Use the included double-stick tape to mount the sensor on the door/porthole frame and the magnet directly opposite on the door/porthole frame that opens. The gap between them should not exceed five millimeters when closed.

Install the motion sensor(screws included) in a location with a clear view of the area you want to monitor, such in the upper corner of the salon. The sensor detects movements up to 18 feet.

App-titude

Download the ZigBoat app and power up the gateway. The gateway creates its own network access point so your smartphone or tablet can connect to the system. Through the app, add the gateway to the list of devices.

After the sensor is mounted, insert the batteries. It will search for the ZigBoat network and join in. Add sensors to the app’s device list by entering its serial number. Each device has its own owner’s manual that provides detail of its connection, placement and safety features.

Most security systems have the ability to add a number of additional sensors to meet specific security or system monitoring needs. Options include video surveillance, smoke alarms, heat alarms, pressure mat sensors, GPS tracking, geofencing, and more. Whether you own a 17-foot flats boat or an 85-foot cruiser, gain peace of mind by keeping your boat secure.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating October 2018

How to Install a Transom Shower on Your Boat

Install a transom shower to rinse away the sand, cool off from the hot sun and wash away the salt.

Boating in and of itself is a great time, but everyone knows the fun really begins after arriving at that favorite anchorage. The kids want to go kayaking, the dog wants to swim and hairy Uncle Joe visiting from Jersey wants to go snorkeling (while hopefully avoiding last year’s backward thong fiasco).The downside to all this fun is the salt, sand, and muck tracked on board at the end of the day, that is, unless you have a transom shower.

But if you don’t have one, installing a transom shower is a project that’s within the ability of the average DIYer. Here’s a look at what’s involved and the various options available.

Transom showers can use saltwater or plumb directly into an existing freshwater system as well as provide hot and cold water. Although you can cobble a system together, the simplest way to install a transom shower is by purchasing a kit. Kit parts may vary slightly but at a minimum will contain a recessed enclosure, a showerhead or nozzle (fitted with a length of retractable hose), and valves for hot and cold water control.

The Setup

The installation itself is pretty straightforward; however, as with any project, you’ll want to thoroughly plan out and visualize it prior to beginning. Start by gathering a few basic tools, such as a tape measure, pencil, drill, bits, jigsaw, wrenches, Channellock pliers, screwdrivers, and a hose cutter or sharp knife. As for parts, you’ll need two barbed hose “T” fittings, appropriate lengths of hot and cold water hose (assuming a hot and cold shower installation), stainless steel hose clamps and a tube of marine-grade adhesive sealant such as 3M 5200.

Location, Location

The first decision is to select a location for the shower. Look for a flat surface near the swim platform, transom or cockpit, one with enough depth behind it to accept the shower enclosure and enough room in front to allow the shower enclosure’s lid (if so equipped) to swing open. Double check to make sure you won’t be cutting or drilling into anything unexpected (wiring, hoses, rod holder, etc.).

Choose a location that allows the shower head to reach a convenient height for ease of use (you can verify this by using a piece of line cut the same length as the shower hose), but avoid areas above electrical equipment or other such items that could be damaged by water leaks or drips should they occur. Accessibility to the area (in order to run the hoses) is another consideration.

Mounting

Most shower kits include a template to assist with cutting the hole. You can also make your own by tracing the outline of the enclosure and marking the location of the mounting holes to assist with drilling. Place the template where you want to mount the enclosure, tape it in place and then cut the hole. When cutting and mounting in solid fiberglass, simply apply a bead of sealant around the inside flange of the enclosure to seal out water. If the area is of cored construction (balsa, plywood, etc.), you also want to seal the edges of the hole (thickened epoxy works well) to prevent water intrusion into the coring and the possibility of rot or other core related issues in the future.

Once the hole is cut, dry fit the enclosure, drill the mounting holes and install the mounting hardware to ensure everything fits properly. If adequate access exists behind the enclosure, you can mount it now and connect the water system hoses afterward. If not, you’ll need to plumb the shower prior to mounting.

For our purposes, let’s assume you have plenty of access and want to mount the enclosure first. Start by applying a liberal bead of caulk along the mounting flange. Carefully install the enclosure and tighten the mounting hardware until caulk begins to ooze out, then stop. Most folks want to crank down until whatever they are mounting is tight, but this approach squeezes out most (if not all) of the caulk. A better approach is to snug it up and let the caulk cure. This forms a gasket and provides a better seal.

As a final touch, remove the mounting bolts or screws one at a time and coat the threads liberally with sealant prior to that final tightening.

Plumbing

Once the enclosure is mounted and the shower assembled (normally involves simply connecting the shower head to the hose, which is then screwed into the enclosure), locate the nearest access to the vessel’s hot and cold water system, allowing the shortest, straightest run possible to the new shower.

Once you’ve located a promising spot, turn off and secure power to the water pressure pump. Next, cut the hoses and install the “T” fittings (securing each with stainless steel clamps). Then run the respective hoses back to the shower and support each hose with wire ties and mounts or cushioned stainless-steel clamps every 12 to 16 inches or so. Once everything is connected, power up the water pressure pump and inspect the system for leaks. Now you’re ready to hose down the kids, dog and Uncle Joe with your new transom shower.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating August 2018

Forget a makeover. Resurface!

Instead of a complete facelift, save yourself a bundle and resurface.

Compared to home interior design trends, boat and yacht owners can get by with the same interior design scheme for quite a while. Sometimes, eight years or more. If your fabrics are thread-bare, carpets are soiled and countertops are chipped, you can give your boat a mini makeover with just a simple resurface.

It may only involve replacing the surface coverings rather than a complete overhaul, which will save you a heap of money that’s better suited for fuel to cruise and food and beverages to keep the crew fed. And if you’re handy with tools, you can save even more money by doing some of the work yourself. Here are a few tips to freshen up your boat’s floors, counters and fabrics.

Counter intelligence

Were your boat’s old laminate countertops were used as a cutting board? Are they past the point of their reasonable usefulness? Good news– the replacement options are unlimited. One blog suggests painting old laminae to resurface. No replacement needed.

There are even kits available that offer an end result similar to the look of granite but without the expense and weight. There are several downsides, however, to “repainting” countertop surfaces: extensive project preparation, product’s toxic smell, and fumes, length of time to cure, unsatisfactory end result or a satisfactory one that doesn’t last.

If countertop replacement is in your makeover budget but granite or marble is not, a laminate is a great option. Think Formica. Don’t let the company’s longevity fool you. Their product offerings come in a myriad of colors and patterns, finishes, solid surfacing, and decorative edging.

The company has even introduced Formica Writable Surfaces, a product line that encourages people to write on it. Forget about jotting down a reminder to the captain or crew—write it on the countertop! If you run out of paper for the kiddos to draw pictures while you’re cruising, set them up at the counter with a box of erasable markers or chalk and they’ll stay busy for hours. Formica Writable Surfaces can be used for countertops, cupboards, table tops, cabinets, walls. Really, just about anywhere. The surface is durable and impact and wear-resistant, easy to clean, and comes in two Chalkable surfaces and six ColorBook surfaces. formica.com

Air and sea

If you’re one of the many yacht owners who also own an aircraft and both could use some TLC, Scott Group Studio recently released their new luxury carpet collection inspired by cultural travel and movement, a fitting theme for both aviation and yachting. The entire collection is crafted in Grand Rapids, Michigan. Produced with a silk and wool blend that is customizable to interior cabin furnishings, each design reflects patterns one would see when traveling the world: ocean currents, terraced landscapes, glacial cracks, sand dunes and savannahs, and ancient drawings on rocks. Scott Group Studio will also make the collection available to residential design, so whether you’re in the air, at sea or on terra firma, you’ll also be at home. scottgroupstudio.com

Foot-worthy floors

There’s nothing like stepping on board a brand-new boat. Particularly, if the flooring is brand-new too. But if your boat’s floors are dingy or dated, replace them with the same products used by boat builders the likes of Grady-White, Tiara, Sea Ray, Chaparral, Bennington, Chris-Craft, and others.

For some, the word “vinyl” brings to mind outdated flooring, yellowed with age and few color options. But vinyl flooring has changed significantly and is one of the hottest trends in home and commercial construction and remodeling. Indeed, today’s choices run the gamut of designs that mimic natural materials, such as wood planks and stone surfaces, in an array of colors and textured appearances. Furthermore, advancements in manufacturing have made vinyl flooring not only a durable choice for boats but also one that enables owners to customize according to décor choices.

“What changed from traditional vinyl is the woven technology,” says Warren McCrickard, former vice president of corporate sales for Infinity Woven Products, a manufacturer of luxury woven vinyl (LWV) flooring. “Infinity is actually a vertically integrated product. We control the manufacturing process from raw to finished and ‘bake’ UV protection, antimicrobial, and stain resistance into the extruded yarn or coating of fibers. The woven technology gives all the benefits and texture, and we can offer a complete line of ornate designs and vibrant colors. They’re very durable and high-performing, but also are beautiful.”

According to user comments, LWV is also very comfortable underfoot, a breeze to clean and easy to install for do-it-yourselfers. Application options include gluing the product flat or binding the edges to lay loose or to be snap down. The flooring comes in 8’6″ and 10′ widths but can be easily seamed for larger floor dimensions. infinitylwv.com

Just sleep on it

A good night’s sleep can make a big difference when you’re cruising or fishing. Like your mattress at home, there are signs the one on your boat needs to be replaced. If you don’t feel rested, you wake up stiff or sore, or there’s a noticeable sag, it’s time. If your mattress is in good shape, new linens and pillows can make a world of difference.

Another attractive and easy décor addition to your stateroom? An attractive custom upholstered headboard. Austin Burkett, marine sales manager for Schrader Mattress, recommends headboards for boats up to 40-feet LOA use marine-grade fabric only. Today, marine-grade fabrics, such as Sunbrella, come in a wide variety of colors, prints, and patterns. For boats that have a continuous air conditioning system, Burkett says most any fabric will work. “We use Ultraleather and other brands of faux leathers as well as vinyls,” he says. schraderbeds.com

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating September 2018

Tilt and Trim Troubleshooting

Tilt and Trim troubles?

Here are some top tips for tilt and trim troubleshooting.

The time you most appreciate your motor’s tilt and trim feature is when it fails.

At that point, all phases of boat operation have degraded. You can’t trim your motor for better fuel economy or raise it to avoid damage when trailering. Here are some tips for tilt and trim troubleshooting.

The tilt and trim unit allows you to optimize the performance of your boat by adjusting the angle of the engine, which, in turn, adjusts the boat’s running surface. The ability to tilt and trim your engine improves boat performance under a wide variety of conditions from smoothing out a rough ride in heavy seas to reducing draft in shallower waters. While this article is geared toward the tilt and trim system for outboard engines, much of the information provided is pertinent when troubleshooting stern drives.

There are two main types of tilt and trim systems found aboard recreational boats. Older systems often used an electric tilt motor coupled with a mechanical lifting device, such as a worm gear. The most common system in use today is the electric/hydraulic power tilt and trim system. It consists of three primary components: a 12-volt electric motor, a small hydraulic pump, and a reservoir/assembly unit. The electric motor operates the hydraulic pump which forces the fluid to the cylinders or rams that move the motor up or down to trim during operation and for trailering.

Tilt and Trim Troubleshooting Basics

If your tilt and trim unit fails to operate, the following steps should help you identify the problem or at least point you in the right direction. Although these tips are fairly generic in nature, you should be able to apply them to most any tilt/ trim system.

The first step is to determine whether the problem lies with the electric tilt/trim motor or the hydraulic pump assembly. Here are a couple of simple ways to isolate the problem.

Electrical or tilt/trim motor issues

If you try to raise or lower the engine and nothing happens, first check to make sure that the battery is charged and that the battery switch is in the “on” position.

Next, listen for the solenoid/start relay while operating the control (tilt) switch up or down. If you hear nothing, the problem will typically be with the tilt switch, solenoid, or with the wires or connections between the two. If you hear a slight clicking noise while pressing the tilt switch, then you have power from the control switch to the solenoid or relay. The next step is to check the operation of the power tilt and trim motor itself.

All tilt/trim systems use a 12-volt DC reversing-type motor that has one green wire and one blue power wire. If you’re dealing with an older system, the motor may also have a third, black wire, which is used to provide ground to motors that don’t receive it through their casing.

Applying power to the blue wire raises the engine while energizing the green wire lowers it. An easy way to remember this is the phrase: blue sky, green grass (as in the blue wire raises the engine towards the sky; the green wire lowers it toward the ground).

Testing, Testing

To test the motor, the first step is to remove the power to it by disconnecting the blue and green wires. Remove the quick-disconnect plug between the motor and solenoid (if provided) or detach the two wires where they connect to the solenoid or relay. Once disconnected, use a jumper wire to apply 12 volts DC directly to the appropriate wire. But if the engine is in the down position, energize the blue wire (which should raise it). If the engine is in the raised position, connect the jumper to the green wire to lower it.

And if the motor fails to operate with power applied directly to the blue or green wire, the issue lies with the motor. If the motor operates, then the problem is a lack of power to the motor (faulty solenoid or relay, bad connections, etc.). Failed solenoids, relays and corrosion (at connections, relay sockets, quick-disconnect plugs, etc.) are some of the most common problems associated with tilt and trim system failure.

Hydraulic pump assembly problems

If the tilt and trim motor works fine but the engine won’t raise or lower, slips down when in the raised position or won’t stay trimmed, chances are that the problem is with the hydraulic pump or valve body assembly. Start by checking the hydraulic fluid reservoir level. If the level is adequate, the problem is most likely with the hydraulic pump. A low fluid level indicates a possible leak at the seals as does visual fluid around the piston assembly. At this point, repairs typically involve removal and rebuilding the pump or replacing it at a qualified repair facility.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating July 2018

How to Install Rod Holders

Most boat owners have experienced moments when that one missing thing on board would help make boating easier. Take, for instance, an extra rod holder in the gunwale. wouldn’t that be nice? That’s why you should learn how to install rod holders.

It could improve the chance of landing a trophy, provide a place to insert a pole to tie up a canopy on a hot, sunny day, or it’s a convenient place to attach a barbecue. Many boats are outfitted with a couple of rod holders in the gunwale at the boat’s stern, but unless your boat is already rigged for tournament fishing with rocket launchers, outriggers and additional rod holders installed at the factory, short of the pain of drilling holes in your boat, to install rod holders for a multitude of functions is relatively simple and straightforward.

Besides the rod holders used for storage or those that allow easy access to a variety of rods set up for particular fish or techniques, having a few along the rail offers more options for the style of fishing preferred on any given day. There are a number of rod holders available with a variety of purposes, such as fixed, removable and adjustable. It is vital to know size and type when you install rod holders.

Each has three main mounting systems: side, clamp-on, and flush. They also are made from various materials such as nylon, fiberglass, and aluminum, but stainless steel is recommended due to its durability and rigidity for handling rough water. It’s also recommended to use stainless steel hardware no matter which material you choose for the holder. So, let’s install a flush-mount rod holder in the gunwale.

Select the Appropriate Holder

Flush mount receptacles generally are available in three fixed angles: 0, 15 and 30 degrees. For your barbecue or if setting up a canopy (with the use of poles), the 0-degree, straight angle holder most likely will be the choice. For kite fishing, 15-degree holders are typically used and are set at 90 degrees to the gunwale with three or four holders required for the kite and the lines.

In that setup, having the holders within arm’s reach is advisable, but another option is to use a trident holder that will convert one receptacle into three. When trolling, 15-and 30-degree holders are used with the angle to the gunwale set between 22.5 and 45 degrees.

Choose Placement Wisely

Carefully analyze where you want to install rod holders before making any cuts in your boat. Take into account how many you plan to install so they are mounted where you want and within reach. Be aware of the angle to the gunwale as you don’t want rods to interfere with each other. As the saying goes, “Measure twice, cut once.” Working with fiberglass and patching a big hole is a different kind of beast.

Installation

Check the proposed location for the rod holder and make adjustments for wiring, plumbing, and other equipment. When the exact location is decided, tape the area. This helps avoid splintering or cracking the surrounding gelcoat. If taped, be sure to mark the hole’s center on the tape. Some holders will include a template to make the cut outline.

Ensure your hole saw matches the diameter of the rod holder. For a straight, zero-degree holder, the cut is a basic straight-in circle. But for the angled holders, you will cut a somewhat elongated hole. Free cutting the hole is fine, but the hole saw is round, so you will need extra cuts to accept the angle of the receptacle.

Try these tips for simpler and more accurate cuts when you install rod holders:

Take the holder, flip it upside down and hold it next to the marked spot matching the angle you want the holder to face, and use it to free guide the drill as you saw the hole; or
Take a small piece of wood (an inch or so thick), use the process just mentioned and cut a hole that matches the angle of the holder. Test the cut by inserting the holder in the piece of wood and make sure it mounts flush. (This will guide the saw more accurately as you cut the gunwale.) Clamp the piece of wood over the marked spot and make the cut.
If you’re satisfied with the cut, and the holder mounts flush in the gunwale and the angle of the holder to the gunwale fits, mark the screw holes by drilling pilot holes. This will depend on the location, a 30-degree holder may not fit at a 90-degree angle.
Remove the holder and finish drilling the screw holes.
Remove the tape and use sandpaper or a Dremel with a burring bit to smooth the edges and prevent cracking. Include a gasket for the receptacle’s flange and, if feasible, include a backing plate to attach the flange bolts, and recheck the holder’s alignment in the hole.
Once you’re sure it fits properly, remove the holder. Apply a bead of adhesive sealant around the main cut. Also, seal the screw holes (especially if you’re not using a backing plate). This ensures a permanent, watertight seal. Replace the holder and tighten everything in place. You now have a new flush-mount rod holder along with another chance to stock the fridge with a fresh catch.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating June 2018

Trailering Don’ts

There are a few constant trailering do’s. But there are far more trailering don’ts.

Trailering a boat is more popular than ever. But there are some things to be concerned with if towing a trailer. Of course, number one is safety. Additionally, that means not just the trailer, boat, and vehicle, but those around you.

Stay safe out there!

A few amusing trailering don’ts:

From the Abbotsford Police Department:

Balanced on pallets, straps held together with duct tape, no brakes, homemade third axle. Just a few of the many things wrong here.

From Boats.com

Oh, the irony! “I was actually sitting on my front porch, working on the list of five boat-trailering tips to offer you in this column, when the sound of aluminum clattering in pavement caused me to look down the block.”

From Nautic Expo

So you’ve run aground, now what?

How to re-float your boat after going aground.

Most boaters have heard the saying: “You’ve either already gone aground or will go aground!” If you’re in the second category, knowing what to do immediately after grounding can make the difference between an embarrassing discussion at the yacht club Tiki bar and a harrowing tale on par with the Poseidon Adventure. While every grounding will have its own nuances to deal with, the following tips should help you re-float your boat in most any situation.

Have a grounding action plan in place

Trying to decide what to do after grounded wastes time, which may be running out if the tide is falling or if other circumstances (weather, waves, etc.) can worsen your situation. Quick, decisive action may save the day with only a few scratches to your hull and ego. When developing your plan, consider the extra items you may need (easily portable anchor and rode, etc.) based on the type of boat you have. A full keel sailboat,
for example, is less susceptible to damage than a powerboat featuring props and rudders extending below the hull. If your boat is more likely to experience damage when grounding— or while trying to unground it—your plan needs to take that into consideration.

Grounding checklist

1. Check for damage. The first thing to do after grounding is to place the engine in neutral—or drop all sails—and inspect the bilges to see if your boat is taking on water. Next, try to determine if you’ve sustained damage to the hull or running gear, paying particular attention to stuffing boxes, thru-hulls, etc. Even if there’s no apparent damage, monitor the bilges once ungrounded and while underway or back at the dock.

2. Check bottom type. Knowing what you’ve grounded on (rock, soft mud, hard sand, coral, etc.) will help determine the best course of action to free yourself. If you’re not sure, bottom information can be found on your charts or possibly determined by scooping up a sample with your anchor.

3. Verify the tide. Knowing the state of the tide is crucial after grounding. A soft grounding during a rising tide may mean the best option is to simply wait. Grounding on a falling tide means you’ll have less time to extricate yourself before the water level drops.

4. Locate deeper water. Don’t automatically assume deeper water is behind you. If you’ve grounded on a shoal or reef, the closest deep water may lie in front of you. In
some areas, you can read water depth by color, but in less clear waters, quickly take soundings around the boat using a lead line or maybe a long boat hook. You may also be able to use your dinghy to survey the water around your boat; outfitting it with a fixed or handheld depth sounder will be a big help.

Float your boat

When considering what action to take after grounding, keep the sage advice of ol’ Hippocrates in mind: “First, do no harm.” For a hard grounding where you’ve struck a reef or rocky bottom and sustained significant damage, staying put until professional help arrives is typically the best approach as freeing a damaged boat could easily result in sinking once deeper water is reached. For soft groundings with little or no damage, the following tactics may help get you afloat.

Power off

Attempting to power off is probably the first reaction after grounding. If you gently slid up onto a shoal bow first, you may be able to power off in reverse (back the way you came) until you reach deeper water. Moving passengers from side to side or swinging the rudder from port to starboard while backing down may roll your boat enough to break free. Boats with twin engines can also alternate bursts of throttle from port to starboard engines while reversing to amplify this side-to-side motion.

Always check your boat’s orientation before trying to back off

It could have spun around after hitting bottom, or, due to the effects of wind and tide, your stern may be angled toward shallow water instead. If you struck the shoal at an angle, you may be able to power off by turning the rudder hard toward deeper water and throttling up in an effort to spin the bow back toward it. Twin engine boats can try to spin the bow by placing the engine closest to deeper water into reverse and the other in forward (once you’re sure your props are clear of the bottom).

If your running gear extends below the keel or could be touching the bottom in any of the above situations, you’ll want to try other tactics to minimize damage. Depending on wind speed and direction, sailboats may be able to heel the boat over by hoisting the main. Heeling reduces draft and breaks the suction, which, when combined with the thrust of the engine, may do the trick.

Drop some pounds

If it’s safe, loading people or heavier items into the dinghy can often reduce your draft enough to free your boat. Other options include emptying water
tanks or using your dinghy to ferry items ashore. Sometimes simply launching the dinghy can make the difference.

How about a lift?

You may be able to use wave action or the wake from a passing boat to lift your boat clear enough to power into deeper water. The trick is timing bursts of
the throttle in the right direction as the boat lifts clear of the bottom. For this to work, you have to know where deeper water is and your running gear has to be clear of the
bottom. This method should not be used if you are aground on a hard or rocky bottom.

Consider kedging

This involves setting an anchor in deeper water and then trying to winch the boat free, typically in conjunction with thrust from the engine. It’s easier with smaller boats—where you can easily throw a small anchor toward deeper water—but is more difficult for larger vessels with a heavier ground tackle. In this case, the safest deployment method is often using the dinghy to ferry out the anchor.

Whatever your action plan, personnel and vessel safety should be paramount. If there are extenuating circumstances (deteriorating weather, the threat of sinking, etc.) don’t hesitate to call for professional help from a commercial towing company or to notify the U.S. Coast Guard.

Tidal and Current Flow Information

Tidal and current flow information is broadcast on VHF weather channels and is also readily available on most modern chart plotters. Observing current flow and tide lines
ashore or on a fixed navigational aid are also good ways to check the local state of the tide. There are also apps aplenty for tablets and smartphones.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating April 2018

In Need of a Tow?

Check out the Top Twelve Towing Tips for Boaters

Inspect Your EPIRB or PLB

The only thing worse than not having crucial safety gear on board is to have it fail when needed. So inspect your EPIRB and PLB.

Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacons (EPIRBs) and Personal Locator Beacons (PLBs) are expected to work flawlessly in an emergency every time despite minimal maintenance and constant exposure to the harsh marine environment. But! You need to inspect your EPIRB and/or PLB will keep it ready, willing and able.

The primary purpose of any emergency signaling device is pinpointing your location to ensure rescue within the “golden day,” that first 24 hours following an emergency during which the majority of survivors can (statistically anyway) be saved—in essence, taking the “search” out of a search and rescue mission. An EPIRB or PLB goes a long way to accomplish that goal.

When activated, emergency beacons transmit a coded message on the 406 MHz distress frequency, which is then relayed via the Cospas-Sarsat global satellite system and earth stations to the nearest rescue coordination center. Units featuring built-in GPS can provide a location accuracy of 150 feet or less.

EPIRB vs PLB

The popularity of PLBs has soared in recent years due to their portability and lower costs, so why not just skip an EPIRB altogether and go with something you can wear? Although PLBs and EPIRBs work in exactly the same manner, there are a number of differences between them beyond size.

While PLBs transmit a distress signal for a minimum of 24 hours, transmit time for an EPIRB is double that (a minimum of 48 hours). Unlike a PLB, EPIRBs can also configure to automatically deploy and activate in the event of an emergency. Category I EPIRBs are designed to float free from a sinking vessel and turn on automatically when it comes into contact with water, while a Category II rating denotes those that are manually activated and deployed.

Unlike a PLB, which is registered to a person, an EPIRB is registered to a specific vessel, which means you can’t legally take it with you to use onboard another vessel.

Testing and maintenance

A good rule of thumb: inspect your EPIRB or PLB once a month. Experts agree that EPIRBs and PLBs should be inspected monthly or prior to an extended cruise. When inspecting and conducting any test, exercise extreme caution to avoid inadvertent activation and generation of a false distress alert.

Start by inspecting the exterior of the beacon thoroughly for any physical damage, such as corrosion, cracking, and water ingress. For EPIRBs, you’ll also want to inspect the mounting bracket or housing. EPIRBs float free when released, so they should be stowed in an unobstructed location. Such installations will also have a Hydrostatic Release Unit (HRU) designed to sense water pressure if a vessel sinks, releasing the mount and allowing the EPIRB to float to the surface. HRUs expire every two years, so note the expiration date during your inspection.

Next up is checking the expiration date of the battery. This will be shown on the beacon manufacturer’s label or a separate sticker. Battery life for most units is five years, although some newer models exceed that. Replace the battery if the beacon has been activated. It must also be replaced on or before the label’s expiration date.

Check the registration with NOAA. This one is expired!

Verify the presence of a current NOAA registration sticker. Federal law requires all U.S.-coded EPIRBs and PLBs to be registered with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA). This registration provides search and rescue organizations emergency contact information so that if your beacon is activated, they’ll know who they’re looking for. It also gives them someone to call and verify that it’s an actual emergency, rather than a false alarm. This means you’ll need to update your registration if any of the information changes. Beacon registration or updates are easily done online at sarsat.noaa.gov/beacon.html.

Self Test

Once the physical inspection is complete, conduct a self-test by following the manufacturer’s instructions. Following these instructions is crucial to ensure your beacon is working properly and to prevent accidental activation.

When conducting a 406 MHz beacon self-test, the EPIRB or PLB is allowed to radiate a single burst that’s specially coded so that it is ignored by the COSPAS-SARSAT system. Most EPIRBs will have a visible test switch, one that’s spring loaded so that it can’t be left on inadvertently and drain the battery. Depending on the unit, a combination of beeps and light or strobe flashes will indicate test circuits are operating properly. Many newer EPIRBs and PLBs will display tests and results via an integral display.

If you accidentally activate your EPIRP or PLB, turn the unit off and cancel the false alert by calling the nearest U.S. Coast Guard Station. They, in turn, will contact the nearest Rescue Coordination Center to cancel the alert. As part of your boating season startup, inspect your EPIRB and PLB can be a lifesaver.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating May 2018

More Safety Gear

How to Remove Stainless Steel Stains

When Stainless Steel Stains: Read up on stainless steel before rivers of rust ruin your ride.

“All that glitters is not gold” is sage advice for many things in life, but it rings especially true for stainless steel hardware. As a marine surveyor, I see plenty of stainless hardware failures, some due to the use of poor quality stainless, others due to poor installation practices or lack of maintenance. But what exactly is marine-grade stainless steel, and why does even the “good stuff” occasionally fail? Let’s take a look at why stainless steel stains.

Stainless steel 101
Stainless steel generally lives up to its name, assuming that the correct grade or series is used for the job at hand and that it is installed and maintained correctly. Most of the stainless steel hardware found at a typical chandlery will be from the 300 series, the various types of which are suitable for a wide array of marine applications. Type 304 is a good, basic, multipurpose-type stainless steel. Add a bit more nickel content and molybdenum to the mix and you get types 316 and 316L, both of which have improved resistance to corrosion. Type 316L features a lower carbon content to prevent carbide precipitation (and intergranular corrosion) when welded.

For the purpose of this article, let’s assume the word “stainless” refers to any of the grade 300 series mentioned above. From a boat owner’s perspective, they all have one big thing in common: a self-generated protective coating that helps prevent corrosion. The chromium used in stainless steel combines with oxygen to form an invisible layer of chromium oxide, which protects and prevents corrosion from penetrating
into the stainless.

This inert, protective film is also self-repairing as long as sufficient oxygen is present. Stainless steel is much more prone to corrosion when installed in an anaerobic (no oxygen) environment, a situation where chlorides found in seawater can attack and destroy this protective coating faster than it can repair itself. A perfect example of this would be the failure of a sailboat’s stainless steel chainplate at the point where it
transitions the deck (more on why in a moment). Such failures often occur even though the chainplate may look pristine above and below the deck penetration.

Assuming the correct grade of stainless is used, boat owners can help prevent corrosion and failure by ensuring the hardware is installed correctly and properly maintained. To better understand why installation and maintenance are important, a general knowledge of basic boat construction is helpful.

The horizontal surfaces on most boats (decks, cabin tops, cockpits, etc.) are of “cored” construction, meaning some material (plywood, end-grain, balsa, or foam) is sandwiched
between an inner and outer layer of fiberglass. This construction is typically used for the transom of powerboats as well. Cored construction produces a structure that is stronger and lighter than a similar panel of solid fiberglass, with greater acoustic and thermal properties as well. One downside is that any penetration into the coring can allow moisture entry if not properly sealed during installation or if the caulking used to seal the hardware breaks down due to age. Unless the coring is isolated or sealed against moisture (a rarity among many boat builders) the coring absorbs this moisture, resting like a wet sponge against the fastener.

That’s when it gets ugly. Over time the oxygen in the water is depleted and the protective chromium oxide film breaks down, unable to renew itself. At this point the iron in the stainless starts to corrode, resulting in expansion and the “running rust” stains indicative of hardware in trouble and in need of immediate attention.

So, what’s a boat owner to do?
Deck hardware (including transom-mounted stainless) should be pulled and rebedded (re-caulked) periodically to prevent leaks. This is especially true for hardware that experiences high or cyclical loads: windlasses, cleats, chainplates, stanchion bases, and the like. The flexing caused by such loads breaks the bond between the caulk and hardware over time, allowing water entry.

There’s no hard and fast rule regarding how often you should recaulk, but the general consensus is that deck hardware should be pulled, inspected for damage and rebedded every 7 to 10 years (more frequently if the situation calls for it).

Another thing to remember is that gooping sealant around the outside edges of a leaking chainplate, stanchion or other pieces of deck hardware in efforts to stop a leak is like throwing sawdust against a waterfall. The fitting has to be pulled and rebedded, or you’re just wasting your time. This also allows you to inspect the hardware and deck coring for issues.

To sum it up, be alert when buying stainless steel. Nuts, bolts, clamps, fastenings, and other such hardware are available from a seemingly endless number of vendors, both online and at “brick and mortar” chandlery stores. Some are more reputable than others, so don’t let low pricing alone guide your purchase. Always verify the grade of stainless you are buying and if purchasing locally, trust but verify by carrying a small magnet, since 300-series stainless should be nonmagnetic or nearly so. When testing hose clamps, be sure to test the screw as well since many cheap stainless clamps use a plated steel screw, which can fail rapidly in the marine environment.

COMMON TYPES OF STAINLESS CORROSION

Crevice Corrosion: a problem with stainless fasteners used in seawater applications where chlorides pit the passivated surface, and low pH salt water attacks the exposed metal. Lacking the oxygen to re-passivate, corrosion continues. As indicated by its name, this corrosion is most common in oxygen restricted crevices, such as under a bolt head.

Pitting: Stainless that has its protective coating penetrated in a small spot becomes an anodic, while the coated part remains cathodic, causing a pit-type corrosion.

Galvanic Corrosion: Immersing two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte solution (such as seawater) produces an electrical current. The current flows from the anodic metal and toward the cathodic metal, and in the process slowly removes material
from the anodic metal.

Intergranular Corrosion: Stainless steel contains a small amount of carbon. When exposed to extremely high temperature (welding, for example) the carbon forces local chrome to form chromium carbide around it, starving the adjacent areas of the chrome it needs for corrosion protection. Choose low carbon stainless such as 304L or 316L when welding.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating February 2018

How to install a USB charger

We’ve got all the tips on how to install a USB charger.

You’d be hard-pressed to find a boat owner that couldn’t use a new or additional USB charger outlet, particularly in light of the increased use of smartphones and tablets for navigation. Most boats have a standard 12 VDC outlet (allowing you to insert a USB charge adapter), however, the contacts can be unreliable aboard a bouncing boat, and the protruding adapter is prone to snagging. A dedicated USB socket is a much better alternative. Here’s how to enjoy a few hours on your boat while adding a convenience that everyone can appreciate.

The first step is selecting a USB outlet, but searching online results in seemingly limitless options. Narrow your search by selecting only water-resistant units constructed of marine-grade components such as those from Marinco, Mastervolt, Blue Sea, etc. Those are the ones you’ll typically see at most any marine chandlery or online distributor. Other features to look for include a water-resistant cover, dual USB ports and a power indicator light or backlighting. Some units even incorporate a 12 VDC power meter providing a quick, convenient way to monitor battery voltage.

Next, take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk through it in an effort to head off any potential problems: You’ve chosen an ideal location, but is there a path to run the power wires? This also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job preventing those extra trips back to the chandlery for forgotten items.

Once you’ve chosen a USB outlet, planned the installation and assembled all of the necessary tools and materials, it’s time to get down to business. These tips will help you along the path to USB charger nirvana.

Select an area for the outlet that’s convenient for charging but is protected to the extent possible from weather, spray, etc. While the outlet may be water resistant with the cover in place, that won’t be the case while in use.
Be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mount location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables is never conducive to a good install.
Turn off all power prior to drilling. Place battery switches to off or better yet, disconnect the batteries completely. If there are AC circuits on board, turn off all breakers, inverters,
etc., and unplug shore power plugs. Leave all power off until the project is completed and you’re ready to test.
You can use a spade bit to drill the mounting hole for the outlet, but a hole saw will produce a much cleaner cut. Cover the mounting area with masking tape to protect the
gelcoat from scratches and help prevent chipping while drilling. For this article, we’ll assume the hole is being drilled through a solid fiberglass panel. Drilling through
cored panels will involve additional steps (sealing the exposed coring, etc.) to prevent water entry issues.
Use good quality marine-grade wire with two conductors, a red (positive) wire and black or yellow negative one. Support the wire run every 18 inches and provide chafe protection (grommets, etc.) where necessary.
Begin the wire run at the plug end by feeding it through the outlet hole and working toward the DC power panel. Leave about a foot of wire hanging out at the plug end to make installation of the outlet easier once the wire run is completed.
Use marine-grade connectors for all power connections, preferably heat shrink-style, crimp-on connectors to prevent corrosion.
Connect the wire at the rear of the breaker panel. This will typically involve a positive connection on the switched side of the main breaker and a negative connection to the
negative bus bar. Ensure all crimp on ring terminals are of the correct size for the studs or screws they’re attached to.
Ensure the installation is protected by an appropriately sized fuse as per the manufacturer’s instructions. This may involve installation of a fuse holder in the positive wire between the panel and outlet.
Connect the wire to the back of the outlet plug. This will typically be done using female spade connectors.
Drill the holes and mount the outlet flange. Place a small amount of marine-grade silicone beneath the flange to prevent water entry.
Once the installation is complete, turn the power back on and test the outlet by plugging in a phone, tablet or other suitable devices into the USB charger.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating December 2017

Photo: USCG

Top Twelve Towing Tips

Be a better boater with these towing tips.

When discussing “the laws of the sea” down at the yacht club’s Tiki bar, the big one will invariably be your duty to render assistance to those in trouble while on the water. Probably the most common assistance will be in the form of a tow. Despite the proliferation of commercial towing companies, there will be times when a fellow mariner can arrive on the scene faster than a professional first responder. Let’s take a look at what you need to know in order to protect not only yourself but also those you are trying to help with these towing tips.

Towing basics

Providing a non-emergency tow (i.e. boat and occupants are not in any immediate danger) may be the most common form of assistance, but that doesn’t mean it’s commonly done correctly. Towing is not simply a matter of tossing Bubba your ratty dock line and goosing the throttle. Before offering a tow, there are things that you as the captain will be required to know both from a practical and legal responsibility standpoint. No set of guidelines will be able to cover every variable you’ll encounter, but the following towing tips should be useful for almost any towing situation.

Top 12 Towing Tips

Take a moment to assess the situation when arriving at the disabled vessel. Everyone wants to lend a hand whenever possible, but you have the responsibility to do so without placing yourself in danger or worsening the situation of the other vessel. For example, a boat that’s aground could have sustained significant damage, causing it to sink once towed into deeper water.
When towing, have the disabled boat pass the tow line over to the tow boat. This lets the towing vessel easily cast off once the tow is completed. A nylon anchor rode is ideal for this as it is typically easily available, is long (allowing for length adjustments) and provides good shock-absorbing qualities due to the nylon’s stretchiness.
If the towing vessel has an on-centerline towing fixture (pylon for skiing, etc.), it might make a good place to attach a tow line assuming it is robust enough. Otherwise, you’ll want to make a towing bridle. A simple bridle can be made by running a stout line between your two stern cleats. Attach the towing line to it using a bowline so that the loop can slide along your bridle. Keep the bridle loose enough to provide room for the tow line to slide freely but not so loose that it can come in contact with your propeller.
Establish communications before starting the tow and keep in constant touch throughout the tow. Using your VHF on a “working” or non-emergency channel will likely be the most common means of communication, however, cell phones or even hand signals will work. For the latter, make sure everyone understands the basic hand signals to be used (stop, slow down, speed up, release the tow, etc.)
Once the tow line is attached to both vessels, slowly take the slack out of the tow line until the full load is achieved at which point you can throttle up to a suitable towing speed.
Always agree on where the disabled vessel will be towed prior to heading out. It’s also a good idea to have a contingency plan in place in case something goes wrong
(deteriorating weather, low fuel, etc.).
Maintain a “tow watch” during the tow, both to make sure the towed vessel is doing okay and to ensure the tow line doesn’t foul your propeller.
If towing in open water, increase the length of the tow line. This not only puts some safe distance between the two vessels but also increases the shock-absorbing qualities of your tow rope. If towing in larger waves, adjust the tow line so that both boats ride in sync with each other at the wave crests, troughs, etc. Boats that are out of sync while towing can experience significant shock loading causing boat damage(ripped out cleats, for example) and injury to those on board.
Shorten up tow lines in calm waters or when maneuvering in close quarters (such as approaching a boat ramp or dock). Always remember that just because the tow boat stops, that doesn’t mean the towed boat will quickly do the same.
Provide chafe protection for the tow line anywhere it touches the tow or towed boat. Old fire hose makes great chafe gear, but even something as simple as a fish towel, old piece of canvas or a T-shirt will work in a pinch. On the opposite side of the equation, always keep a sharp knife handy should you need to sever the towline in the event of an emergency.
Make the tow as smooth as possible for the towed vessel. Try different speeds to find the best speed for both the boat being towed and the conditions.
Never hesitate to decline to offer a tow if circumstances make it unsafe: bad weather, rough seas, your boat is too small, etc. The bottom line is that while you are obliged to provide as much help as possible in the event of an emergency, you also don’t want to attempt something that is beyond your capabilities, a situation that could create civil liability for you, even if follow these towing tips. If the crew is stranded but not in imminent danger, the most prudent course of action may be to simply stand by and provide moral support until a professional tow company arrives to assistBy Frank Lanier, Southern Boating January 2018