Category: DIY

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U.S. Coast Guard Safety Check

If the U.S. Coast Guard boards your boat, it pays to be calm and ready.

The U.S. Coast Guard isn’t to be feared like Big Brother, though boat operators may feel like scofflaws who speed through school zones when the red and blueclad Coasties appear. It’s the same driver angst police officers elicit on the road: What will I get busted for now?

Anyone regularly navigating ports or waters near international borders will likely have an encounter with the Coast Guard. As one of the five branches of the U.S. military— along with the Air Force, Army, Marine Corps, and Navy—the Coast Guard is under the Department of Homeland Security and exists to enforce the law, not to teach it. In addition, when you launch your boat in U.S. waters, you relinquish your Fourth Amendment rights at the dock. The Coast Guard doesn’t require probable cause to board your boat, a provision which dates back to the late 1700s and the Revolutionary War.

“When the Coast Guard pulls up to a boat, often it’s [to say]: ‘Hey, we are just checking to see how you are doing today,’” says Jonathan Lally, a Coast Guard spokesman and Petty Officer 2nd Class, based out of the 7th Coast Guard District, Miami Public Affairs Office. “Our crews are not out there to hassle people. They are out there to make sure people are safe and prevent accidents before they happen.”

Making the Coast Guard’s job difficult when officers want to board your boat will only cause the stop to last longer and may increase suspicion. If you have a firearm or other weapons on board, let the Coast Guard officers know before they board. Once they do an initial safety sweep to their satisfaction and make sure your registration and identification check out, then they may look for drugs. If that happens, they will thoroughly search compartments and closets.

Heeding basic regulations will prevent a citation. The Coast Guard will ensure that all children younger than age 13 are wearing life jackets and that there is a flotation device for each person on board. Make sure you have a noisemaker and throw-ring with a line that is within easy reach. A lack of boat registration or fire extinguisher is a common error, as these are federal  requirements. Again, the Coast Guard’s main duties are certifying that boats are secure from foreign threats, environmentally in compliance and, most important, that the boat and passengers are safe.

“Already having on a life jacket when you go into the water is going to increase your chances of survival,” Lally explains. “Not only does it help you float, but it gives us and other rescuers more to search for, because we are looking for basketball-size object in the water. Today’s life jackets are more comfortable than old-style life jackets, as well as colorful.”

Once the inspection is complete, the Coast Guard will issue a Report of Boarding Form CG-4100, a two-page document that consists of a white original and a yellow copy. The captain gets the yellow copy. Keep it handy, as you can show it to Coast Guard officers if you are boarded again soon.

If you are embarking on a long voyage, proper communication before and after the passage is crucial. “File a float plan with family and friends, the more detailed the better,” Lally adds, noting that your boat’s equipment and tools are also vitally important. Make sure your charts— electronic and paper—are up to date so that you can use them to navigate instead of visual aids. “If you do get lost or delayed and don’t make it to a certain marina you said you were headed to, the Coast Guard knows where to search.”

In addition, verify your marine-band VHF is working; the Coast Guard constantly monitors Channel 16. Don’t depend on a cell phone as cell towers are unreliable. You can use your
VHF radio to call for help even in spots where your cell phone has no signal. Also, Sea Tow offers a free Automated Radio Check system to ensure the radio is working properly.

Other tips include stowing extra gear—such as blankets and a tarp—to help protect you against the elements should a thunderstorm arise. Always have a dry bag with a change
of clothes. Staying dry is an essential part of survival. Finally, keeping a “weather eye” is invaluable, as conditions can change rapidly.

“Know how to use your flares if you are forced into using them,” says Lally, adding a caution to be careful not to fire them accidentally so that they’re not available when you really need to send a signal. “Nowadays, there are many boating classes out there where people can learn to be safe. We encourage everyone to take these classes and keep taking them to continue their safety education.” uscg.mil

By Don Minikus, Southern Boating Magazine November 2017

PHOTO: U.S. COAST GUARD

Top Three Boat Systems

Every boat owner should know these top three boat systems—and know them well.

Congratulations! You’ve purchased your dream boat, and you’re ready to cruise faraway lands in search of adventure and fruity drinks with little umbrellas in them. Not so fast! Now the real fun begins as you learn about the operation and function of the various equipment on board prior to heading out.

To help boost your maritime learning curve, here are three common boat systems every cruiser should be familiar with.

DC electrical system

When it comes to your boat’s DC electrical system, knowledge is power! Smart boaters will acquaint themselves with major components and how they interact to provide juice to the various systems and equipment on board before problems arise.

Parts to know on sight:

DC system components you should become intimately familiar with include batteries/battery banks, primary on/ off battery switches and the location of any breakers or fuses within the system.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

If your DC system utilizes fuses, knowing where they are and having spares for each type (cartridge, spade, etc.) is a must. Read through the owner’s manuals of electrical equipment you have installed (to determine if they come with inline fuses), and don’t forget to carry spares for any unusual or specialty fuses you may need (engine starting, windlass, etc.).

In addition to the tools commonly found in the basic kit, the No. 1 item you’ll want to have on board when troubleshooting your DC system is a multimeter. It’s indispensable for tracing DC voltages, testing fuses and tracking down broken wires or corroded connectors. You don’t need anything fancy, and since they can be found at most hardware stores for as little as $5, there’s no excuse for not having one in your toolkit.

Other good-to-have items are a 15-foot jumper wire with alligator clips on each end (to help troubleshoot wiring circuits), crimpon butt and terminal connectors, wire  tripper/crimpers, heat shrink and liquid electrical tape (for sealing connections), WD-40 (or a similar corrosion inhibitor), a small wire brush (for clearing away corrosion), and possibly an assortment of wire (various lengths and sizes).

Fuel system

When fellow cruisers say getting there is half the fun, it’s obvious they’ve never been stranded on the water due to a stalled engine. If it happens, you’ll find getting your boat moving again will be ALL the fun you’re looking for. More often than not, an on-the-water, no-go event will likely involve the fuel system.

Parts to know on sight:

This is another system that you should be able to trace out (from tank fi ll to engine) before problems occur. Components to locate and identify include a fuel tank fill hose and fuel line fittings, fuel shut-off valves and all fuel filters.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Have spare filter cartridges or cartridges for both primary and secondary filters on hand. Familiarity with the requirements for bleeding your diesel after fuel filter changes is also highly recommended. This maintenance item will go much smoother if you know how to do it beforehand.

Sanitation system

With the possible exception of “Where’s all this water coming from?”, probably no other statement strikes more fear in a  boat owner’s heart than: “The toilet isn’t working for some reason.” It’s particularly troubling when you realize the issue typically doesn’t make itself known until after “the deed” has already been done.

Parts to know on sight:

This depends on the type of marine sanitation system you have installed. Gravity fed toilets (aka Porta Potti-type units) are pretty simple and work just like the name implies. They have a bowl that essentially dumps its contents directly into an integral holding tank, which can be removed and discarded in the appropriate receptacle on shore.

Permanently mounted sanitation systems will generally have a flushwater intake thru-hull and seacock (although in some cases this may also be plumbed to the boat’s freshwater system), a manual- or electric-flush toilet, a holding tank, and a deck fitting for dockside pumpouts.

Additional components you may see (depending on the system) include “Y” selector valves (allowing you to discharge bowl contents directly overboard or into a holding tank or waste from a holding tank to a macerator or deck pump-out), vented loops (to prevent back siphoning and flooding), a macerator pump, and an overboard discharge thru-hull and seacock.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Spare parts can range from gaskets and seals to entire rebuild kits for the toilet pump. A great place to look for advice on this is the owner’s manual, which will usually provide a suggested list of spare parts. A basic tool kit containing screwdrivers, a socket set, etc., as well as a few extra hose clamps, will also come in handy, particularly if you have to disassemble hose runs to look for clogs—a job that’s just as nasty as it sounds.

By Frank Lanier Southern Boating August 2017

Meguiar’s New Boat Owner’s Essentials Box

Meguiar’s New Boat Owner’s Essentials Box starter kit enables new boat owners to care for and maintain the appearance of their vessel. The kit contains a variety of easy-to-use products to effectively wash, dry and protect a boat’s exterior and can be used on gelcoat, fiberglass and plastic surfaces.

MSRP $45;
meguiars.com/en/marine

Soft Water Solutions

Prevent damage to your boat’s fit and finish with a portable water softening system.

While cruising long distances or making extended voyages, it can be difficult to maintain consistent access to soft water. Instead, you may find that dockages only have access to hard water, which often contains a large quantity of certain dissolved minerals. While minerals such as calcium and magnesium aren’t harmful to your health, they can lead to inefficiencies and even damage your boat. Luckily for cruisers, portable water softeners can safely and effectively transform hard water through softening methods, saving you both time and money.

Although portable water softening systems operate by transforming hard water to soft water, hard water isn’t inherently undesirable. It isn’t harmful to human health, and it can even be beneficial due to its rich mineral content. It also can reduce the solubility of potentially toxic metal ions like those from copper and lead. However, hard water is incompatible with soap, will dry out your skin and hair, and can also damage pipes and plumbing fixtures. Using soft water instead of hard water will prevent scale build-up and residue during a washdown of your boat, preserving both the fit and finish.

Hardness in water is usually caused by the presence of calcium and magnesium or other dissolved minerals that become trapped. Certain geographical areas are notorious for hard water issues: the upper Midwest (Minnesota, Iowa and North Dakota), the south-central U.S. (Texas, New Mexico and California) and Florida. Areas with a large amount of limestone combined with well water systems will also experience water hardness.

What’s the best way to determine whether your water supply is delivering hard or soft water? One of the easiest ways to determine water hardness is to look at the formation of suds. Hard water produces noticeably less lather when it interacts with soap than does soft water. Furthermore, a white precipitate (usually soap scum) is produced. Another way to measure water hardness is to figure out how many grains per gallon are present in the water by using a pre-packaged kit. WET SPOT (softwetspot.com) offers one that’s exceptionally sensitive and accurate. Keep in mind, however, that due to variances in mineral presence, pH and water temperature, there isn’t a single-number scale used to determine what differentiates hard and soft water. A good rule of thumb to follow is that 3 or fewer grains per gallon is considered slightly hard water, while more than 14 grains per gallon is considered extremely hard water.

So now that you’ve confirmed the presence of hard water, what can you do? The first step is to choose a portable water softener. Many portable models are perfect for cruisers due to their ease of installation and slimmer profile. They also work equally as well as commercial or residential water softener systems, with the added bonus of manual recharging, meaning that no electrical hook-ups are required. This makes a portable softener a great addition to your travel kit before leaving the dock.

For portable water softeners to work during normal conditioning, the raw, untreated water must enter the system through an inlet at the top of a resin tank. The resin contains sodium, which is used to dilute the concentration of magnesium, calcium and other minerals. The water then seeps down through the resin bed. Scale and hardness are then collected on the ion exchange sites of the resin. The result is quality, conditioned water that leaves your boat spot-free after rinsing by preventing iron staining, scale build-up, soap film, and water spots.

While there are many portable water softening systems on the market, choosing the best one for your vessel and your needs depends on a few factors. The capacity of a portable system is determined by how many grains it can filter. Larger boats will obviously require larger-capacity systems than smaller ones. As an example, WET SPOT builds its models in three varieties: the plus, the heavy duty and the super. Each are built for varying degrees of water hardness and usage rates.

Keep in mind that there are some portable water softeners on the market that use table salt instead of the product-specific water softening salt. There are a few advantages built into being able to use table salt tablets for water softening. Because table salt is readily available, it’s easy to acquire at any time. Furthermore, two salt tablets will be able to process around 1,000 gallons of hard water.

Make your travels easier and preserve the life of your boat’s finish. Your water will taste and smell better while also improving the lifespan of your appliances and utilities. Don’t get caught away from the dock without this essential cruiser resource, and be ready to enjoy soft water and a spot-free shine every single time.

By Susanna Botkin, Southern Boating May 2017

Soundproofing Your Boat

How to install soundproofing for quieter cruising

For most, boats are a way to escape the rat race of terrestrial life and an opportunity to enjoy time with family and friends on the water. Relaxing can be difficult, however, when you have to scream over engine or generator noise during conversations or while lying awake at night, listening to the melodious hum of an air conditioning unit. Installation of soundproofing can make a huge difference in onboard noise reduction. Here’s how to transform the hullabaloo of your boat into the peace and tranquility of a floating Zen garden.

The best way to combat noise is by containing it at the source—within an engine compartment, for example. Installation of a good-quality foam soundproofing barrier can reduce engine noise by 10-35 decibels (about 65 percent). Soundproofing material is available in a wide variety of forms, from sprays and paints to foil-backed foam panels. Foam panels are a popular choice and one that’s very effective against airborne noise pollution.

Self-adhesive panels are easy to install (just peel and stick), but you have to plan and position them exactly where you want them the first try, as once they’re in place, you typically can’t reposition them without damaging the foam. Non-adhesive backed panels require spray or brush-on contact adhesives. Most allow a bit of last-minute repositioning, making them easier to work with in tight spaces. Regardless of the adhesives used, panels also require the use of mechanical fasteners (such as screws and fender washers) particularly for overhead horizontal installations. (To prevent gripping and tearing of the foam, wax the screws by running them into a candle prior to use.)

Soft sound shields, such as this one from GSi, provide both installation flexibility and significant noise reduction.

Soundproofing panels can be cut to shape with a box cutter or razor knife but a serrated knife blade will provide a cleaner cut of the foam material itself. Thin sheets of soundproofing material can also be cut with a pair of quality scissors. To ensure the best fit (and avoid cutting snafus), make cardboard templates first to check fit and for use as a cutting guide. Be sure to dry-fit everything prior to applying adhesives or peeling self-adhesive panels.

When planning your installation, remember that sound flows like water meaning you’ll want to use special seal or joining tape that’s provided by the manufacturer to prevent “leaks” at panel joints, etc.

Cables and hoses penetrating the material should be sealed using tight-fitting rubber grommets, while any access hatches should close snugly with a good, tight seal. That being said, any soundproofing installation must provide adequate ventilation for the engine. Required vents and air holes can be quieted using air baffles.

It’s not realistic to expect all noise to be eliminated once soundproofing is installed, but when done correctly you should be able to carry on a conversation at normal volume levels and you’ll notice your cruising becomes much more serene. After all, who wants to yell when trying to relax? Namaste!

Installation tips:

• Read all instructions (soundproofing, adhesives, etc) before starting your project.

• Make templates to check fit prior to cutting panels. Be sure to allow for material thickness at corners.

• Ensure your installation provides adequate ventilation and keeps insulation material above bilge water levels. (Avoid exposure to any wet areas.)

• Provide a minimum clearance of six inches between soundproofing and engine or generator exhaust manifolds.

• Use sharp tools when cutting sound proofing in order to produce clean cuts and also to avoid tearing of reflective foil. The foil or silver facing side should face upward when cutting.

• Handle soundproofing material carefully and avoid folding the material back on itself, which can cause creasing.

• Seal all exposed edges with seam tape to prevent water or other contaminates (fumes, oil, etc.) from entering and degrading sound proofing material.

• Don’t rely on adhesives alone. Use fasteners where appropriate (all overhead and vertical surfaces) to ensure backup in the event of adhesive failure.

• Apply adhesive for and install one panel at a time. Install the top panel first, which lets adjacent vertical panels provide support to the outer edges of the top panel.

• Use seam tape to seal exposed joints and corners. Seam tape can also be used to provide chafe protection at wear points.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine April 2017

How to Buy a Better Used Boat

A marine surveyor offers advice based on more than 35 years of experience.

There’s a reason why sales of pre-owned boats outpace new purchases 10 to 1. They represent a heck of a good value, particularly when factoring in perks like depreciation and owner outfitting. The trick is finding the most boat for your money with the least amount of previous owner headaches. Here’s a look at three issues that can turn your potential dream boat into the proverbial hole in the water.

Issue 1: Engine problems

Engines are typically the most expensive piece of gear on board, and it’s a hard lesson to learn after purchasing that deal of a lifetime to discover a rebuild or replacement is required.

Warning signs: Start by looking for obvious problems such as leaks, excessive rust, broken components, etc. Next, check coolant level and properties (for closed systems). Lack of antifreeze should be a concern (a possible indication of leaks) as would coolant with a rusty color or an unusual amount of solids.

Pull the dipstick and check the oil. A slightly low level might be okay, but higher than normal levels could be a sign of trouble, especially if the oil is milky or frothy—an indication that water, antifreeze or transmission fluid is present. The cause of this could mean anything from a blown gasket to a cracked block.

Coolant reservoir leak and corrosion

Is the engine difficult to start? Depending on the engine (gas or diesel), hard starting could be caused by anything from weak batteries to faulty plugs, fuel pump issues or bad fuel. How does the engine sound? Does it run smoothly at idle and under load, or does it idle unevenly and stall out when placed in gear? Rough running can be caused by anything from clogged fuel filters to compression problems, while engines idling at more than 800 rpm may have been set high to mask idling problems.

Verify proper oil pressure and operating temperature. Low oil pressure could be due to anything from faulty oil pumps to cam bearing failure. High water temperatures may be something as simple as a failed impeller, but could also be caused by corroded manifolds or exhaust risers. Also, read the smoke signals. A well-maintained engine may smoke when it’s initially started or while idling but not when warmed up or under load. Smoke color can also provide an indication of problems (blue for burning oil, black for incomplete combustion, etc.).

Red flags: Have the engine surveyed by a marine mechanic, then discuss repair options and cost.  Engines are a big-ticket item, so always weigh the cost of repair or replacement versus walking away from what initially seemed like a great deal.

Issue 2: Wet/delaminated decks

Water intrusion into cored decking likely causes more boat damage every year than sinking, grounding and fire combined. Cored construction simply means you’ve got an inner and outer skin of fiberglass sandwiching some other material between them: balsa, plywood, foam, etc. The prime directive with cored construction is to keep water out, particularly with balsa or plywood. Wet wood coring can rot and allows the cored deck to separate, which drastically reduces structural integrity. Long-term water exposure causes problems with foam-cored decks as well: core separation, freeze damage and even disintegration in some cases.

Warning signs: The first step in finding deck problems can be as simple as walking on them. Soft spots, oil-canning (flexing) or even water squishing from deck fittings are all indicators of a potentially expensive repair. Drips and brownish stains below decks are also common signs of water-soaked decks and rotting core.

Sound out the decks by tapping them with a small plastic-headed hammer or the end of a screwdriver handle. Sharp, crisp sounds are what you want to hear, while dull thuds can be an indication of delamination. Moisture meters such as those available from JR Overseas (jroverseas.com) are also an excellent tool for sniffing out soggy decks.

Red flags: While repair costs will be directly related to the size of the delaminated area, cutting open a deck for core replacement is rarely a cheap proposition. If a deck flexes like the bounce house you rented for junior’s birthday, run or get ready to lay out some serious cash.

Issue 3: Manufacturer’s defects

It’s a sad fact that some problems you’ll encounter are fresh from the builder or caused by improper aftermarket installations by the dealer.

Warning signs: The sky’s the limit with the range and type of problems you’ll encounter. Common issues include holes drilled or cut into cored decks that aren’t properly sealed afterward against moisture entry. Windlass hawse holes are notorious for this. Also, inadequate backing plates for railings and cleats, unsupported wire runs, inaccessible fuel tanks, and lack of seacocks below the waterline thru-hull fittings—the list seems endless.

Red flags: Here’s where a good marine surveyor is worth his weight in gold (marinesurvey.org). It’s the surveyor who, like crotchety old Aunt Emma did on your first real date way back when, picks and gnaws at your new love, ferreting out all those faults your own moonstruck eyes have overlooked. With survey report in hand, you can work with the seller to correct these issues outright, negotiate a reduced price or determine if it’s better to find a boat with fewer issues.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017

Quick, Get Back in the Boat!

Installing a boarding ladder? If you’re an avid cruiser, you’ll need one! Spend time at any yacht club tiki bar and you’re bound to hear the tale of a cruising couple, an impulsive mid-ocean swim, the inability to climb back on board, and the telltale fingernail marks found later on the transom of the unmanned vessel.

In an effort to keep you from becoming the fodder of such sea stories, here’s the scoop on choosing and installing a boarding ladder on your vessel so that you can safely enter and exit the water from the deck or swim platform. Boarding ladders also make it easier to board a dinghy and assist in retrieval of personnel in a crew overboard (COB) situation in calmer waters.

Boarding ladders should be constructed from non-corroding materials such as plastic, aluminum or stainless steel. Aluminum ladders weigh less and are cheaper, whereas stainless steel ladders are stronger and more durable. Boarding ladders can be fixed or portable and come in a variety of styles. However, for the purpose of this article, we’ll concentrate on three types:  Swim step ladders, transom ladders and removable ladders.

Swim step ladders
These are typically mounted to a power boat’s swim platform. However, installation of a swim platform ladder is an option for smaller vessels (those powered by outboards or I/O drives, for example) that typically don’t have space for a full transom platform. Due to their proximity to the water, both units normally require no more than three steps to meet the American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) requirement regarding extension into the water. When not in use the ladders can either fold up onto the swim platform itself or telescope out of the way underneath.

Transom ladders
These are hinged units typically found on sailboats. Many ladders are constructed so that they become an integral part of the stern railing or pushpit when raised and secured in place. When lowered, they provide an opening in the stern railing and a means of entering and exiting the water. Transom ladders designed as part of the stern pulpit are generally factory installations, but aftermarket units can often be easily installed depending on the vessel’s transom configuration.

Telescoping swim platform ladder.

Removable ladders
These units, as opposed to portable ladders, are attached using permanently mounted brackets. These brackets are typically bolted to the gunwales or deck of a vessel and utilize keyhole slots, cotter pins or some similar arrangement that allow them to be easily installed and removed when not in use. Some units are rigid one-piece units, while others are hinged so that they can be folded up rather than removed when not in use. Others still are telescoping or even accordion-style units, which can be adjusted to facilitate boarding a dinghy or fully extended for water entry or exit.

Mounting considerations
ABYC standards state that all boats must have a means of unassisted re-boarding that must be accessible to and deployable by a person in the water. ABYC also calls for each boarding ladder to be able to withstand a vertical downward static load of 400 pounds without permanent deformation in excess of 1/4 inch, and for the top surface of the lowest step to be at least 12 inches below the waterline with the boat in a static floating position. In general, ladders should be located at a spot that makes the vessel easy to board such as the side of a sailboat adjacent to the lifeline. If the ladders are mounted on the stern, they should be installed as far as practical from the propellers.

Installation tips
As with any project, the first step is to thoroughly read and understand the manufacturer’s instructions. Next, visualize the installation and do a “dry run” in order to identify and address potential problems beforehand. Does the location you’ve chosen for the ladder meet manufacturer and ABYC recommendations? Are the mounting hardware and backing plates sufficiently robust, and can they be reached on both sides for tightening?

Ladder installation on a swim platform is typically a straightforward affair. For installations that require drilling into the hull, always verify what’s on the other side before drilling in order to avoid collateral damage to equipment, wire runs or Aunt Martha’s picture. You’ll also want to ensure all mounting hardware is properly bedded with a suitable marine-grade sealant, and that when holes are drilled through any cored portions of the hull or deck, the exposed coring is properly sealed to prevent moisture entry.

Even when properly installed, some of the above ladders may fail to meet the ABYC requirement for easy deployment by a person in the water, particularly those that should be removed and stowed while underway. One possible solution is the installation of an emergency boarding ladder. These units, typically some form of rope ladder utilizing rigid steps, are collapsible, lightweight and can be easily installed on most boats. Most are stored in a canvas bag and deployed by a grab rope hanging just above the waterline.

Rope ladders are convenient emergency ladders due to their compactness and flexibility. However, they’re harder to climb than rigid units, making them less than ideal as primary boarding ladders. If installed, it’s always a good idea to test deployment and ease of use in calm waters before they’re actually needed. One trick that can make them easier to board is weighting the lowest rung of the ladder to ensure it fully extends when deployed. Finally, while many cruisers likely plan on using their boarding ladders during a COB recovery situation, preparation should include various scenarios such as recovery of an incapacitated victim. It’s crucial that COB and recovery drills are not only understood by all on board but also practiced on a regular basis. They should also include captain and crew role reversals, to ensure recovery can take place if the captain or crew is incapacitated.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016

Trailering Tips

Use these trailering tips and tow your boat to gain access to new and exciting waterways.

Towing a trailerable vessel is daunting to some boating enthusiasts and a snap for others, but those experienced in trailering recognize the many benefits. Hitting the road with a boat in tow unlocks access to rivers, lakes, bays, and oceans previously considered unreachable. Moreover, it’s easier to load and repair your boat when on a trailer and less expensive to re-fuel at a local gas station. (Take care to pump only marine-suitable fuel.) Then after launching the vessel at the marina ramp and into the water, it’s a quick getaway from the crowd. These trailering tips and resources will help to make your trailering experience easier and safer.

Prep It

Regarding durability, boat trailers are built to take a serious amount of punishment, not only from the boat and open road but also from constant submersion into the water. But trailer maintenance is still crucial, and while freshwater is relatively benign, saltwater and brackish water is brutally corrosive. Even a tiny amount of residual saltwater could cause damage to internal parts when the trailer sits idle throughout the offseason.

“First and foremost, review your owner’s manual for tips and information especially on maintenance for the trailer and how to use it safely,” says EZ Loader Custom Boat Trailers vice president and general manager, Gary Potter. “Second, never tow your boat until you review the NMMA and/or NATM decal showing the parts of the trailer you must check before towing. Do not tow the trailer if there is a problem.”

Check it

The initial checklist includes monitoring items such as tire air pressure, ensuring the latch is in place on the trailer ball and secured to the actuator before moving, and making sure the trailer wheels’ lug nuts are secured to manufacturer specifications.

Trailer manufacturers such as EZ Loader use modern technology to make trailering boats safer. “Today, there are many new devices for monitoring air pressure and other functions on the trailers,” says Potter. “Actuators are being made with safety in mind with quick-connect attachments. There are certainly more advances in cosmetics than ever before with the use of larger tires in combination with new and exciting-styled aluminum wheels plus all kinds of lighting including LED, Glow and other technologies.”

Online Towing Guide publisher Brett Becker says becoming proficient at towing takes practice and training but not while you’re at a crowded launch ramp on the weekend when the pressure is really on. “You get good at trailering the same way you get to Carnegie Hall: practice, practice, practice,” Becker says. “Focus on improving your skills each time you go boating, and pretty soon nothing about trailering will faze you.” Practice when the trailer is both empty and loaded as the change in weight can affect how the trailer responds.

It’s also important to regularly review the towing rules and regulations because they are constantly changing. Each state’s Department of Motor Vehicles website offers the most current regulations, and the Online Towing Guide provides a helpful chart to determine your state’s fundamental trailering laws.

Keep your distance

When on the road, the most important function is stopping safely and under control, which means you should allow for plenty of space between you and the vehicles ahead of you. The time and distance it takes to brake increases dramatically when trailering, so doubling or even tripling the amount of space that you would normally allot between your car and the next is the safest option until you get a sense of your rig’s behavior.

Mirrors also play a vital role, so consider installing larger side mirrors and convex blind-spot mirrors for supplementary safety precautions. Also, don’t be hesitant to enlist your passengers for help on the road and while maneuvering at the launch ramp.

Stay in control on hills and in traffic

An unbalanced truck and trailer rig have a tendency to sway whether in traffic, around curves or down hills. If you begin to sway, gradually slow down and turn the wheel minimally. When you’re able to safely pull off the road, be sure to check for imbalances, tire problems, and potential mechanical failures. Trailer swaying frequently has more to do with tongue weight distribution. In most cases, the greater the tongue weight without exceeding that coupler’s capacity rating, the better the towing.

Get properly connected

The coupler linking the tow vehicle and trailer is a simple yet incredibly important connection. Always check for debris inside the coupler as any crumbs or particles could prevent the hitch ball from fully seating, which would cause an unstable connection. After attaching the coupler to the hitch ball, use the jack to try and lift it to separate the two. If it does not detach, you have a solid connection.

There’s also a coupler latch that moves the collar that locks under the hitch ball, and you want to ensure that it’s lubricated and moving smoothly for safe maneuvering. The same goes for the moving parts on the tongue jack. Penetrating lubricant comes in spray cans with straw nozzles, which allows you to work fluid into the nooks and crannies.

“Make sure your cables or chains are in good shape and ready to be crisscrossed under the hitch while underway,” says Potter. “The chain or cable shouldn’t be long enough to scrape the ground, but also not so short so that the trailer can’t make a full turn without damaging the chain or cable.”

Embrace new technology

EZ Loader aims to be innovative by developing new, improved and more effective products each year. “Most recently we developed and received a patent on a new aluminum trailer design we call I-Tube,” Potter says. “This is an aluminum I-beam trailer with a tube, so the brake lines and electrical harness stay protected in a non-corrosive environment. The I-Tube also keeps them free of possible snags from outside the trailer, and makes for a better appearance than standard I-beam aluminum.”

EZ Loader also offers new lighting designs, including steps with a lit top step made of acrylic material. The top step is wired into the harness and light is positioned underneath. “That lights the top of the steps and makes for a safer place to step if needed,” adds Potter. “It lights up for the driver of the vehicle in a flat-tire situation.”

EZ Loader also offers an extension step to the trailer’s rear, making it easier to access the boat from the back. EZ Loader’s “brite steps” utilize a rail that lights up your boat’s logo, giving the boat company and/or dealer constant advertising while in tow.

Add a rearview camera

Newer vehicles have rearview cameras, but if your vehicle is not already equipped with one you have the option to add a portable rearview camera. Companies such as 4UCam offer a wireless magnetic portable camera and a 2.5-inch monitor. The monitor is hooked up on the dash and the camera is attached to the back of the vehicle.

Both the monitor and the camera have a built-in rechargeable battery inside. The magnetic-based night vision wireless camera is used to guide you to the trailer, then easily hitch up and be on your way.  

INFORMATION
ezloader.com
4ucam.com

By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

DIY Herb Garden

Grow a galley herb garden and liven up your onboard menus.

Everyone loves an extended cruise no matter the destination. But occasionally long trips mean leaving certain things back on shore, including the fresh provisions you’ve come to enjoy. However, not everything has to stay behind! The ease of growing herbs in almost any location means they’re easy to bring along while cruising. Herbs thrive in ideal boating conditions and, like people, enjoy opportunities to soak up the sunshine. Fresh herbs liven up the galley and add zest to complement any onboard meal. Whether it’s a sprig of fresh mint in your evening mojitos or parsley on top of spaghetti, incorporating fresh herbs into meals will kick the party up a notch with minimal effort. (Just because you’re on a boat doesn’t mean your fare has to be out of a box or a can.) Herbs are low maintenance, can freshen up the interior of any living space and growing them will also give you an opportunity to improve your green thumb.

Thoughts of indoor herb gardens normally bring to mind visions of small, potted plants dotted along a kitchen windowsill. Luckily, transitioning herbs into life on the water is just as easy as growing them back on land. There’s a variety of ways to ensure your herbs thrive—grow them in small planters, old cans and even mason jars—that all work well in areas with limited space. However, there are a few considerations to keep in mind when looking after herbs on a boat that don’t apply to kitchen varieties. While herbs love plenty of sunshine and water, salt spray will permanently damage most herbs if they are left on deck for too long, although a few hours outside won’t hurt them. A good rule of thumb to follow is that almost every herb will need at least four to six hours of quality sunlight a day, even if it’s just through a window.

In order to get started, consider where you’ll keep your herbs, what variety you want to grow and what planting method makes the most sense based on space requirements. Interior windowsills are always a great place to keep herbs. However, many herbs will also thrive in any of the nooks and crannies onboard provided they get enough sunlight. Although there are many varieties of herbs, not every type is cut out for life on the water. Generally, mint, thyme, rosemary, dill, sage, tarragon, parsley, and basil all adjust well to life on a boat, grow quickly and make wonderful additions to most menus. Furthermore, their fragrance enhances interior spaces and provides a welcoming element to any room. The previously mentioned herbs grow quickly and within only a few short weeks will be ready to enjoy in a variety of dishes.

To assemble your herb garden you’ll need:

• Old food cans or Mason jars
• Drill with a small drill bit
• Terra-cotta saucer
• Juvenile plants or seedlings
• Quality potting soil
• Mint, oregano, parsley, mint, thyme, or other plant/seedlings
• River rocks or small pebbles

To begin, decide how many herbs to plant. Is your goal to simply spice up the occasional cocktail, or are you picturing fresh parsley or cilantro in daily Italian meals? The answer to this question, as well as space limitations, will determine the number of starting herbs. Wash the appropriate amount of cans thoroughly and allow them to dry.

Whatever container you choose, ensure it has proper drainage. If you’re using cans, drill several small holes into the bottom of each can to allow proper drainage. For glass Mason jars, fill the bottom of each jar with a small layer of river rocks or pebbles to provide drainage.

Next, fill a terra-cotta saucer with small river rocks. Fill the cans or mason jars two-thirds of the way full with quality potting soil. Remove the herbs from their pots and replant them in either the cans or Mason jars. Add a little more potting soil to cover the roots of the herbs. Water the herbs so the soil is damp all the way through, and arrange cans on the terra-cotta saucer. Place where herbs will be able to receive four to six hours of sunlight daily. Remember to partially rotate the cans or jars every few days to ensure even growth. Forgetting to do so could cause the herbs to become spindly, as they’ll stretch out in an attempt to find more sunlight.

Fortunately for boating enthusiasts, herbs are hardy and simple to care for. Herbs only require occasional watering; give them water once the top two inches of soil have dried out. Make sure to keep a saucer or liner underneath each can or Mason jar to avoid ruining a windowsill or tabletop. Excess water is particularly damaging to herbs as sitting in water quickly causes their roots to rot. If your herbs begin to turn brown, assume the cause is overwatering. Wait until the plants reach between 6-8 inches in height before you harvest. Trim off approximately 1/3 of the branches, cutting close to a leaf intersection, which will ensure that your herbs regrow quickly and provide lasting enjoyment for many meals to come.

By Susanna Botkin, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

Sun Powered Solar Panels

Solar panels are an excellent way to “green up” any vessel’s energy plan, so here’s the lowdown on how to install solar panels.

It’s no mystery that solar panels are a popular choice when it comes to alternative onboard energy systems; they’re noiseless, have no moving parts and provide free electricity for years with minimal maintenance.

While factors such as cost, mounting options, and output are important, a successful installation depends on what you want the panel or system to accomplish. Is the goal to float-charge a battery or supplement an overall energy plan, such as a combination of wind and solar? Or just to install solar panels for offset of your carbon footprint? Answering these questions up front will help determine the type, size and number of panels required.

The following example explains the basic steps used to determine the typical power requirements and installation considerations for a single solar panel installation. The example, while simple, mirrors the steps of more complicated installations.

Let’s pretend you need to install a solar panel to provide charging for a 12-volt, 100-amp hour, wet-cell battery used to power an automatic anchor light on a moored vessel. The first step is determining how much output you’ll need by compiling a daily power consumption estimate. To start with, the daily self-discharge rate for a wet-cell battery is roughly one percent, meaning your 100 amp-hour battery requires one amp every 24 hours just to maintain the status quo.

Assuming your anchor light operates 10 hours each night and draws 50 milliamps per hour of operation, multiply current draw (50 milliamps) by hours of daily operation (10) to reach a daily energy expense of .5 amps. This means the solar panel will have to meet a minimum daily energy tab of 1.5 amps (one amp to address the battery self-discharge rate plus the .5 amps draw of your anchor light). This method also applies to more complex power needs.

Always use marine grade connectors— those with heat shrink work best.

Once you’ve determined power requirements, the next step is figuring out panel size and the best mounting location. Solar panels should be installed where they won’t interfere with the boat’s operation. Ideally, the installation will also be adjustable, allowing you to turn the panels toward the sun periodically throughout the day, which can increase power generation by up to 40 percent. Keep in mind that panel output ratings are based on ideal conditions such as 90-degree orientation toward bright sunlight, no shadowing, optimal temperatures, and no load attached. For the real world, assume a panel will produce roughly half its advertised wattage in amp hours per day when actively aimed at the sun, or around 30 percent otherwise.

Popular mounting locations include cabin tops, stern rails, atop dinghy davits, radar arches, and Bimini tops (with some flexible panels being sewn right into the canvas). Some deck or cabin mounted panels (depending on type) may need to be raised slightly to allow air circulation beneath, as high temperatures can increase resistance and decreases cell output. Installations in warmer climates may require panels with a higher maximum voltage to compensate for decreased outputs.

For example, assume the panel will be a horizontal, fixed-mount installation. A 10-watt panel so mounted should contribute between 3 to 5 amp hours per day. You’ll need at least 13 volts to fully charge your 12-volt battery. As most solar cells generate at least 0.45 volts, you’ll want a panel with at least 33 cells, which should provide around 14.85 volts.

However, this is only the minimum requirement, which may not be enough once you factor in a few cloudy days. Most panels are designed to generate between 15 and 20 volts to overcome problems like clouds or inherent electrical resistance within the panel or installation components. While this higher voltage lets you make up for less electrically productive days, it also means you’ll want to install a charge controller (voltage regulator) to avoid battery damage due to overcharging.

To determine wire size for connecting your panel, first determine current amp requirements by multiplying its rated amp output by 1.25, which adds a 25 percent safety factor. Next, measure the length of wiring run (from panel to battery) and multiply by two (which factors in both the positive and negative sides of the run). Once you have these two numbers, refer to the American Boat and Yacht Council’s (ABYC) 3 percent voltage-drop table for wire size or use the wire chart at marinco.com/en/resources/wire-data/three-percent-voltage-drop.

Always use high-quality, marine-grade connectors and tinned, multi-stranded copper wire for your installation. The wire will run from the solar panel to the charge controller and onto the battery. The controller should be mounted below deck and as close to the battery as possible. Be sure to follow any specific manufacturer instructions for connections, but in general, the panel’s positive lead should connect to the controller’s positive input terminal, and the negative lead should connect to ground—in most cases the negative battery terminal or a ground buss bar.

Connect the controller’s positive output to the battery’s positive terminal using an appropriately sized in-line fuse or circuit breaker. ABYC recommends installation within 7 inches of connection to the battery or another point in the DC system. Finally, waterproof all connections and secure any loose wires with wire ties and cable clamps for a neat installation.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

The Damaged Wood Factor

Repair cracked varnish with wood damage.

Repairing a varnished surface that has been a bit compromised and damaged the wood below requires some extra prep work.

If you’re going to take on this kind of project, you must work slowly, pay attention to the weather—work on cloudy days with low humidity and no wind—, use the best products, including green or blue painters tape, a good brush, and be ready to spend lots of time in preparation. (Varnish doesn’t have any pigment to block harmful UV rays from the sun, so make sure your product of choice is loaded with sunscreens.)

A cracked varnished surface can happen because of wear and tear—remember, your rails move and vibrate with the boat’s motion—or due to some kind of impact damage. The most important thing with this type of situation is to get on the repair as quickly as possible to prevent any water from getting in and under the varnish, which can show up as dark spots. Also make sure to avoid the sun’s ultraviolet rays that can change the color of the wood. If you can’t get on the repair right away, invest in a canvas cover to protect the particular rail section until you have time to get things done the right way.

The first thing to do is prepare the surface and that around it to either sand or remove the old coating with a heat gun. (Remember, it’s not just the crack itself but perhaps several inches outside of it as well.)

If you’ve never used a heat gun and scraper before, you might be better off with a sanding block, some heavy grit paper and working up to 220-grit, as you get closer to removing the damaged area. Be sure to use a mask and safety glasses to avoid inhaling any dust particles or irritating your eyes. Wipe the area down often as you work and use a handheld vacuum cleaner to clean up the dust. At the end of this part of the job, wipe things down with a tack cloth to make sure all the residues are removed.

Sanding takes a bit longer but you have much more control over the affected area. Don’t go overboard with what you take off if this is the first time you’ve held a heat gun. With a bit of patience and care, this is a quick way to get the job done. Heat guns work by delivering a concentrated and steady stream of electrically heated air at high temperature. They must be kept moving back and forth at a fairly rapid pace and at a 45º angle over a small portion of the work area while pushing the scraper into the now bubbling and softened varnish. If it goes according to plan, the varnish comes up in one sweep. Wear safety glasses, heat-resistant gloves and always put a tarp under the work site to catch the residues as they are removed.

Don’t scorch the now-exposed surface and be relaxed with the scraper in hand so as not to dig or poke into the wood. If the varnish doesn’t come off easily, go back and re-heat. Chemical stripping is another option, but I choose not to work with these rather harsh substances and the toxic fumes they give off.

Now that the area is exposed, sand the surface clean and fix any blemish that might be there in order to begin building the layers of varnish up to the proper height. Remember, we’ve just taken all of it off and gone right down to the bare wood.

If you have a dark spot, remove it prior to restoring the varnished surface. Before using any chemical agents, a good tip is to try and sand the spot clean first. Go easy and work slowly and you just might get a good result. Should that not work, one time-honored and homegrown fix that’s bantered about the docks is to mix up a batch of mild liquid laundry soap with some regular household chlorine bleach, in a 3/4 detergent to 1/4 bleach solution, which is then brushed on and left to soak in for a few minutes. Again, position your tarp under the work site so drops don’t hit your deck or painted surfaces. Work carefully, rinse the area well and let it dry thoroughly before sanding with 220-grit paper.

If the spot is still visible, use stronger cleaners, perhaps one containing such reactive agents as crystals of oxalic acid, or chlorine and two-part bleach. Use a test piece before using any stronger chemicals or solutions on your actual railings, and follow the products’ directions carefully. A word of caution: If you’ve never done this before and have a rather stubborn spot, ask for help. Check with your marina manager for recommendations.

Building up the varnish may require working over several days of applications and takes patience to achieve the right results. Don’t work directly from the original can. Instead, being careful not to shake it and cause bubbles, slowly pour enough into a separate container. Use a good brush and always apply the product in the direction of the wood grain, pulling it on one way—you don’t “paint” with varnish. If thinner is required for this first coat, it usually is added in a 50/50 ratio.

If you start in the morning, allow this coat to dry, tack clean, and apply a second coat later that afternoon without sanding. Continue for several days. Once you get to the third coat, begin sanding and tacking from this point on, being careful not to allow any dust or debris to adhere to a sticky coat. If that happens, let it dry and spot sand lightly, always tacking before the next coat goes on. You should get eight coats on until the repair is flat and fits in with the surrounding area.

To keep that wonderful shiny finish always looking good, it’s best to do a yearly refreshing application of the topcoat. It’s worth the effort to make your boat stand out.

— By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016

Can’t Upgrade?

Then update your existing audio.

Your boat’s stereo is older, it still sounds great, but there is no Bluetooth interface for your smart phone to stream to. The stereo’s auxiliary input is already used, or there isn’t one at all. You could replace your stereo, but this is often not as simple—or affordable—as it sounds. Many older boat stereos such as the Clarions were larger and replacing them takes more effort than many would realize. Since the footprint was larger than newer stereos, it now requires fabrication of a cover plate and handling associated cosmetic problems. The remote control in the dash may also need replacement and it may be difficult to pull wire. So how do you adapt your existing stereo to use new technologies?

There are many types of adapters and approaches that can breathe new technological life into your stereo. We’ll start with the stereo’s auxiliary input—on many boats it is already being used by another device such as the TV or a DVD player. In our first case we can have multiple devices share the stereo’s auxiliary input, but only one device can use it at a time. The easiest way to do this is by using audio cable splitters, which are inexpensive, available in almost any plug configuration and an easy way to share the input. The new input could be as basic as a 1/8″ headphone mini-jack that plugs into your smartphone or iPod, or use an audio switch box to select the source so that multiple audio inputs can share the port.

Other options for new audio sources include adding Bluetooth to your existing stereo that consists of FM modulators and FM transmitters. The differences between these two are that the FM transmitter sends a low power FM signal that will be heard by your stereo’s antenna, while the FM modulator is connected directly to the antenna.

To use the typical FM transmitter, select an unused FM frequency, set the device to transmit at that frequency, plug in your audio source, and presto. There is zero wiring to deal with, but a downside is that in most cases, you will need a 12VDC receptacle nearby to plug into—the closer the better. The range is limited, and about 20 feet is the maximum.

The FM modulator does a similar job but in a much different way. Unplug the stereo’s antenna wire and plug it into the modulator. Then plug the modulator’s antenna cable into the stereo. The modulator injects a strong FM signal directly into the antenna wire. The signal source is typically cleaner and much less prone to interference. The downsides are that it requires removing the stereo to install, it has to be wired to 12-volt power, and in most cases, the frequency options are fewer (2 to 8 max).

Given the choices between these two approaches, I favor the FM modulator over the FM transmitter. It requires physical installation, meaning the stereo will have to be extracted at least partially to install it, but the gear ends up being tucked away out of sight. Overall, the sound quality is better in most scenarios. Two good options to consider are the Scosche Universal FM modulator and Audiovox FM100A.

The world of Bluetooth comes in several similar adapter forms. There are FM transmitter versions, which have the same characteristics discussed earlier, and ones that require connection to your stereo’s auxiliary input either directly or through a FM modulator. A good Bluetooth option for boat owners is Wet Sounds Bluetooth volume control WW-BT-VC. This is a small, water-resistant controller suitable for both console and interior mounting. It requires 12VDC connection to ships power and has a 1/8″ mini-jack stereo output for connection to your stereo. It pauses (mutes), changes tracks and controls the sound volume all with one small knob. As with other audio sources you can use either a FM transmitter or modulator for input to your stereo if need be. It pairs quickly and has good wireless range.

As a final note, your stereo’s auxiliary input is designed to accept what’s called a “Line Level” audio signal, and in some cases, this can cause minor problems. The headphone jack on your smart phone or iPod is like a line level output on a small dose of steroids. You won’t hurt your stereo with it, but if the input volume is turned all of the way up you can overdrive the auxiliary input causing sound distortion. So the general rule of thumb is to have the headphone jack volume turned way down and to use the stereo to control the sound volume. In the case of the Wet Sounds Bluetooth volume control, if you’re using a FM modulator you may have to play a bit with the volume settings to find a good-sounding combination.

There are many options available to get more life out of your stereo, but shop carefully and take time to read the customer reviews about the products before you buy. Like many things in life, sometimes the least expensive approach to good tunes cost you the most in aggravation.

Southern Boating, April 2015 By Bill Bishop

Installing a Cockpit TV

It’s a beautiful Sunday afternoon in the anchorage and the big game is going to kick off in a few minutes. With this simple how-to guide, watch it on your new TV in the comfort of your cockpit instead of down in your dimly lit cabin.

1. Select a good mounting place. Although every boat’s cockpit is different, take a seat where you’re most comfortable and look around for a place with good visibility. Typical options are on a cabinet, wet bar, or on an arch or bulkhead. In this scenario we’re using an arch. Measure the selected mounting area and determine the maximum width and height for a TV, keeping in mind that the mount site will be the center of the television—most of today’s TVs are wider than they are high. Size does matter but be pragmatic about this. It may help to make a cardboard template of a TV to visualize the actual size.

2. Buy the TV. Once you have the maximum allowable dimensions, head to your favorite electronics store with a tape measure. First, find TVs that will fit, and then pick the brand and features you want. Your best option is a LED television since they are lightweight, thin and bright. If you plan to use an antenna or dockside cable, ensure the TV has a coax (Antenna In) connector. You may also want a built-in DVD player.

3. Buy a mount. Surfaces on a boat are rarely ever square or straight. In reality, most surfaces are curved and sometimes in a complex way—an arch might lean in and have a twist as it curves upward. The solution to arch and bulkhead mounting is to use a full-motion mount such as the Sanus VFS415 (shown). This is important since TVs that are fully retracted against the arch often look straight but when repositioned can appear twisted, and watching a TV when the top edge is running downhill is disconcerting. A full-motion mount solves all of these problems since it can be adjusted to all angles and any position that pleases the eye.

Once the area is selected to install the TV mount, you can begin to cut the necessary holes for the wiring.

4. Prepare to install. Most mounts attach with two bolts that are included in the package. Throw them out and replace with non-rusting stainless steel bolts. This now begs the point that you need to put nuts on them and you need access, which is gained by two methods. The best option is to place the mount in a location near an access point for wiring already installed, such as a speaker cutout. The second best option is to cut a hole and install a small Beckson plate to provide access. It is possible to use lag bolts, but the larger the TV the more problematic this becomes since your TV can bounce around when under way (see step 6). In either case be mindful of wiring inside when doing any cutting and drilling.

5. Access power and signal source. Power for most TVs will be 110VAC. In this installation power came from a spare AC breaker. Triplex AC wiring was pulled from the AC panel to the TVs location and a GFCI outlet was installed. (If there is any confusion about how to do this, hire a good technician instead. You don’t want to be a statistic with a damaged TV.) The TV’s signal source can come from many places such as the boat’s existing cable TV backbone, satellite TV receivers, and stand alone digital TV antennas. When using the coax backbone, digital on-air signals will be very good quality, and dockside cable TV will be adequate quality. If you’re using satellite TV, most are not high-definition systems. Your best option is to use a HDMI output from the receiver to feed the TV, and the next best resolution is the five-wire component TV connection. You will end up with a good quality signal about equal to 720p resolution.
You will want to place the power and signal source connections as close as practical to the TV. In many cases you can place them behind the TV to hide them but sometimes that’s not possible. In our installation, since this was an aluminum arch filled with wiring and tubing, the outlets were placed below the TV in the coaming. The HDMI cable connection will need to be wrapped with electrical tape on the back of the outlet to keep it from vibrating out. The wiring to the TV gets covered with split loom and neatly tied up and harnessed behind the set.

The TV has been mounted and connected.

6. Prepare TV for cruising. The TV should be restrained when not in use or during rough conditions. The best way to do this is with a couple of SS eyes and bungee cord. Your chartplotter is IP67 rated, but the TV isn’t rated IP anything so you it needs protection from the elements. The low cost approach is to use a good quality plastic garbage bag. It’s not attractive, but it’s functional. The better-looking option is a TV cover, which are available online starting at about $25. Also, an Allen wrench will most likely have come with your mount—do NOT lose it. You’ll need it to remove the TV for storage over cold winters or in adverse weather. Finally, kick back and enjoy that game!

Bill Bishop is a Florida based professional marine electronics installer and consultant. He writes extensively on the subject and publishes The Marine Installers Rant.

Southern Boating, February 2015, Bill Bishop

Ten Galley Upgrades.

Make mealtime prep a breeze with these 10 galley upgrades.

Those forced to toil at the often thankless task of fixing grub for the crew may feel more like a galley slave than galley gourmet, but it doesn’t have to be that way. Here’s a look at 10 easy upgrades that can make galley duty more enjoyable. For the HGTV dreamers with a knack as a handyman or woman, tackle this list yourself to save on cost. Or for those who prefer the peace of mind of professionalism, save yourself the headache by checking references for a good local contractor. For a simple spruce, freshen your galley with a new coat of paint and de-cluttering.

1. Improve your lighting. Nothing makes a galley seem more cramped than poor lighting. Replacing outdated incandescent lights with modern units featuring fluorescent or LED technology will not only improve available light but reduce energy consumption as well. Upgrading or installing additional lighting over the stove, sink and food prep areas will go a long way toward achieving galley nirvana. For night-vision-safe galley work, choose units that provide both white and red light options, such as those offered by Alpenglow. Painting or covering dark, less reflective galley surfaces with light-colored countertop materials can also improve your existing lighting.

2. Increase counter space. When it comes to food prep and serving, most galleys are notoriously short on counter space, doubly so when entertaining onboard guests. A quick, easy way to supplement existing workspace is to install a cutting board over the galley sink. Wood and synthetic cutting boards come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, making it easy to find one that will fit your sink with minimal trimming. Another option is fitting a removable top over your stove burners for use when preparing cold foods.

3. Maximize storage. No matter how you slice it, you just can’t have too much galley storage. Take a moment to step back and look at your galley and surrounding areas as a whole, not only to visualize ways to better utilize existing space but also to ferret out hidden or unused areas to increase storage options. Pots and pans that are used less frequently might be stored under the stove, sink or even the galley floorboards. I installed several shelves in an underutilized hanging locker adjacent to the galley aboard my boat, converting it into an easily accessible storage locker for cans, dry goods and other foodstuffs.

4. Upgrade sink and faucet. Too many galleys feature a single, diminutive sink that’s unfit for food preparation, dish washing or pretty much any other galley-sink related task. Upgrading to a deep, full-sized single or double sink is fairly straightforward and will make a marked improvement on most any galley operation. Swap out that old dual control faucet with a single lever unit to make one-handed operation a breeze. Those with extendable, pull-out faucets provide even more flexibility.

5. Get some air. Nothing enhances the quality of galley life like plenty of cool, fresh air, particularly during the heat of summer. Good ventilation provides a multitude of benefits, from rapid removal of smoke and food odors generated while cooking to the elimination of minor carbon monoxide buildup and its negative effects on crew health (headaches, seasickness, etc). Even something as simple as installing an adjustable galley fan can make a huge difference in aiding ventilation.

6. Install a saltwater faucet. Fresh water is something most of us take for granted, especially in the U.S. where it’s readily available at most marinas for no extra charge when fueling or docking for the night. When cruising outside of the U.S. where water supplies are limited and costly, however, having a saltwater pump and faucet is not only handy but economical to boot. From rinsing potatoes to washing dishes, using clean salt water in the galley is an excellent way to stretch your fresh water supply. Manual hand pumps are popular and easy to install, but foot pumps have the added benefit of freeing up both hands during use.

7. Add a real trashcan. Nothing says fancy galley living like a fixed trashcan. Sure, that diminutive plastic can under the sink works, but the convenience and luxury of a built-in, kitchen-bag sized bin (possibly topped with a cutting board lid) has to be experienced to be truly appreciated.

8. Add a dish drying rack. A drying rack not only makes dish washing easier but also cuts down on wet towels. Look around and find one that fits into your sink, which provides both an easy way to dry dishes and store the rack when not in use.

9. Install a “Vacuum flask” (aka Thermos ®) holder. Thermos bottles rock! That’s why a holder or rack that keeps them secure and handy is just the ticket for those cold days or overnight passages. Just heat up water at the beginning of the trip and crewmembers will have hot water for tea, coffee, hot chocolate, or instant soups for hours to come.

10. Move up to a wall-mounted dispenser. Everyone loves the convenience of paper towels, but where do you put them where they’re out of the way yet easy to grab when needed? Same thing with tin foil and cling-wrap—they’re always clogging up your drawers or impossible to find when needed. Multiple wall-mounted dispensers keep each of these in easy reach and are compact to boot—just perfect for that bare spot on the galley bulkhead!

Captain Lincoln F. Sternn has operated and maintained vessels ranging from dive boats to passenger ferries in the Atlantic, Caribbean, and South Pacific.

Fish On!

How to select and install outrigger equipment.

Outriggers are used to increase the width of the trolling spread of bait and lures. When considering what type of outriggers and poles to purchase, the biggest factors are price, convenience and presentation of the bait. Options generally include either aluminum or carbon fiber poles, and simple gunnel-mounted outriggers or convenient T-top mounts.

Gunnel-mounted outriggers are the simplest and least expensive outrigger option. They can be set in a variety of positions—straight up for running, angled out for trolling and straight back for navigating under bridges. They are also the easiest to install since only an angled hole, saw and a drill are required for installation. A pair of gunnel-mounted outriggers ranges from less than $400 up to $700 depending on the features. Simplicity, however, is not always the best option. Captain Mark Henderson of the Liquid Fire Fishing Team advises, “A disadvantage of gunnel-mounted outriggers is [that] there is more line in the water because the angle from the release clip where the line is held is lower. Therefore, to let a lure or bait out the same distance as an outrigger from the T-top, there will be more monofilament in the water, which increases drag pressure and diminishes the action of the lure.” The most popular option for center console boats is top-mounted outriggers. Their position from above the top provides both a cleaner presentation of the bait and complete fish-fighting ability around the boat with no obstructions from a gunnel outrigger. If your boat does not already have outriggers installed or is not equipped with outrigger mounting plates, aftermarket mounting plates can be added for about $300 a pair.

There are two types of top-mounted outriggers. The first are top-mount models that require someone to climb up on the gunnel to raise or lower the poles. These types of mounts start around $600 for a pair or come complete with poles and a rigging kit for about $1,300. The second type of mounted outrigger is much safer and very convenient and allows a fisherman to change the direction and angle of the outrigger by using an elevation crank under the top. This provides a much safer way to change angles and lower poles when in rough seas. These outriggers may require mounting plates or wedges that don’t come in the box, and prices range from about $1,300 up to $2,500 for a pair of mounts. The great benefit is that you can install these yourself.

Outrigger pole options are not as readily available as the mounts—your choices involve length and material (aluminum or carbon fiber). For most boat owners aluminum poles cover their needs. For vessels under 30 feet, a pole length of 15 feet eliminates the additional weight and length of 18-foot poles, as there is less “bouncing” of the poles when extended while running offshore. This means less stress is placed on the T-top and bases. Boats 30 feet and larger tend to have a softer ride, which allows the vessels to easily handle the additional length and weight of the 18-foot poles. “The added length of the 18-foot poles provides the opportunity to add an additional line on each side and also increases the width of the trolling spread by 6 feet. This increases the surface area to make a wider and fuller bait presentation,” says Henderson.

Aluminum outrigger poles are far less expensive than carbon fiber poles, however, they are much heavier. Because aluminum is more flexible it may not allow the bait, lures or dredges to swim as true through the water. Also, aluminum poles do not hold as well under heavy loads when trolling large lures or pulling heavy dredges, especially in rough seas.

Carbon fiber poles are rising in popularity. These poles are much lighter, create less stress on the outrigger mounts and allow easy maneuvering when swinging them out to their fishing and running positions. Carbon fiber poles are also stiffer and create less whipping movement, which allows the bait to run truer for a natural display under water. That said, carbon fiber poles are at least four to five times more expensive than aluminum outrigger poles. They can also be more sensitive to nicks and scratches—a major dent or scratch can weaken the strength of the pole, and the repairs can be more costly than those on aluminum poles.

Whether you select gunnel or T-top mounts, aluminum or carbon fiber poles, there are many affordable choices that will fit your budget and increase your sport fishing fun.

Southern Boating, July 2015, By Jose Chao

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