Boat systems are inherently different than that of similar counterpart systems. Heads are certainly not bathrooms, nor are galleys quite the same as kitchens. Southern Boating has articles and resources to keep your heads, galleys and other boat systems in ship-shape.
Do your homework on boat lifts. Raise your boat and your standards.
Water can sometimes be the worst place for a boat. When not in use, a boat bobbing at the dock is under attack from the forces of nature. It’s not just marine growth that’s a problem but also the wind and waves that batter the hull.
Here’s where boat lifts help you rise above it all, a Zen state over the liquid chaos. Boat lifts allow for easier cleanup and better security, protecting your investment and making arrival and departure simple.
“The most common misconception about boat lifts is that they are too expensive,” says Cale Grauer, business development manager for HydroHoist, headquartered in Claremore, Oklahoma. “With the boat being lifted out of the harsh elements, your maintenance costs on your boat will be minimal to nothing. It prevents marine growth from accumulating on the outdrive or prop, and the hull can be easily sprayed off and wiped down.”
Another common misconception is that boat lifts are hard to operate. HydroHoist features simple push-button controls for its boat lifts that take the confusion out of raising and
lowering your vessel. JetDock, based in Cleveland, Ohio, offers an easy solution: Simply run the boat up on a series of floating cells linked together. Measurements are taken and then customers purchase the proper number of cells to fit the size of their boat.
“JetDock is designed to be as simple as possible for easy use and long life,” says Shaun Hagerty, a JetDock sales representative, who notes the system can handle boats up to 50 feet and 44,000 pounds. “The JetDock system is made of high-density grade polymer.
We use an air compressor for larger boats, and the only maintenance is to hose off the dock.” If a JetDock float cracks or falls apart, the design makes it very easy to replace a module and be back in business. The floats won’t pollute or contaminate the water and don’t degrade from UV or marine exposure.
Owners of larger cruising vessels such as a Marlow Explorer 62E that weighs 39 tons or more when loaded also have options. Hi-Tide Boat Lifts offers many styles for boats weighing from 1,500 pounds to 90 tons. The Fort Pierce Florida-based manufacturer was founded in 1979 and builds all its electronics in house. “Our dealers are marine contractors that are trained and certified through our manufacturing facility,” says Carlos Quinones, president of Hi-Tide. “They understand what and how things need to be done, and any non-certified installation will result in a voided warranty.”
Hi-Tide’s yacht lifts can hold larger boats—40,000 pounds to 90 tons—and are made of an all-aluminum structure using 6061-T6 marine-grade aluminum. However, retrofitting an
existing Hi-Tide lift is not possible if you get a bigger boat.
“The structural members change in size as capacity grows,” explains Quinones. “It’s not just a bigger motor, cable and gear box—that’s a big misconception. If bunking and hull
configuration changes, the answer is to call your factory-certified, trained dealer to set it up for you and avoid the liability of attempting it yourself.”
Adaptability to the environment where the lift will be installed and used is critical to success. For example, HydroHoist’s HarborHoist boat lift series can be used in situations ranging from fixed pier to single-finger docks to floating dock styles and in both fresh and saltwater environments. The polyethylene tanks are precision-designed and custom-molded.
“They are a seamless, one-piece design constructed of high-impact polyethylene,” Grauer says. “They are designed so that the walkways in the lowered position are able to stay buoyant and provide a continuous walkway for easy access to your boat in the raised and lowered position. This tank design allows the lift to simply be tied off to a standard dock cleat or piling, or it can use a conventional mooring system.”
Marinas and repair yards also have needs for lifts to service customers’ boats. “We have manufactured lifts with custom configurations that range up to 80,000 pounds of capacity for service platform lifts,” Grauer says. “We typically use these larger lifts for marinas and shipyards to do maintenance on houseboats or large boats’ outdrive and fiberglass hull repairs beneath the water level.”
The cost of installing a boat lift varies, depending on the dock and surrounding areas. Although manufacturers would not provide general pricing guidelines, our research shows that small lifts cost as little as $2,000, while larger lifts for yachts can cost $60,000 or more.
However, the cost may be well worth it if the lift saves you money, time and worry—and allows you to stay in that state of Zen.
Make dock water potable with FCI Watermakers’ Dockside Treatment System.
Three different models remove bacteria, viruses and dissolved solids and make up to 3,000 gallons of fresh water daily for drinking, cooking, cleaning, and bathing. All are highly efficient, vibration-free andcome in a compact framed or space-saving modular design.
Full Speed Ahead
Check out the new power products were aplenty at this year’s Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show.
Fall is the time to start thinking of all the game-changing technology that you should spec on a new vessel or add to your existing boat, and there’s no better place to learn about new power products than at the 2017 Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show. Introductions include powerful but fuel-sipping engines, battery chargers, watermakers,
climate control products, and other products that make cruising comfortable, safe and
fun. So, when you tear yourself away from the docks and the hundreds of shiny boats, check out the cutting-edge equipment that makes them so amazing.
PROPULSION
Suzuki showcases its new DF350A, a naturally aspirated 55º V6 DOHC 4-stroke engine with 4.4-liter displacement. Largest among 350-hp V6 outboards, this engine’s high-performance 12.0:1 compression ratio delivers 80-hp per liter of displacement. Dual fuel injectors per cylinder allow for precise placement of the fuel in the center of the combustion chamber, minimizing engine knock. Power and torque come from the Suzuki-designed lower unit and contra-rotating dual prop system. Water flows around the new hydro-dynamically-shaped gear case with minimal turbulence so the twin props can dig in to clean water, which improves holeshot and acceleration. suzukimarine.com
VOLVO PENTA moves into the 1,000-hp engine market for the first time with its new 13-liter engine, the D13-1000, targeting yachts up to 120 feet. This landmark product touts highly efficient injectors and an improved cooling system that combine for an 11 percent increase in power. The optimized power-to-weight ratio and low-end torque provide exceptional performance on demand. Expect this light engine to use nearly a third less fuel but offer faster acceleration, a higher top speed and lower noise and vibration. In
addition, Volvo Penta matches the new engine with an upgraded IPS pod drive, the D13-1350 that gives the equivalent power of a 1,350-hp engine. volvopenta.com
YAMAHA offers the new F25C 25-hp outboard. The model weighs in at only 126 pounds,
which makes it the lightest power-to-weight ratio outboard on the market today. The electronic multi-point fuel injection does not require a battery so there’s less weight in the boat, but an electric starter can be added aftermarket. Eight models are available including a short and long shaft, with tiller or remote drive. The Sub-idle Variable Trolling
Speed (VTS) feature holds below idle speed for proper trolling and a 16-amp alternator can run more electronics than ever. Foldaway carry handles, resting pads and a three-sided oil retention system are built-in for easy transport and storage. yamahaoutboards.com
Honda Marine debuts three new outboard jet models: the 40, 65 and 105. The lineup of
durable jet-propelled motors combines Honda powerheads with jet drives that can venture into ultra-shallow waters. These models are as quiet and fuel-efficient as Honda’s BF Series of propeller-driven models and have excellent maneuverability, but they can go where prop-driven outboards can’t operate such as river rapids and skinny waters with lots of sandbars. The new motors are covered by the transferrable Honda True five-year non-declining warranty. marine.honda.com
Indmar Marine introduces the Raptor 460 aimed at watersports and aluminum jet boats. The new 6.2L engine makes 453 foot-pounds of maximum torque and produces 410 horsepower for big block power in a small block package. It’s based on the proven Ford 6.2L 16-valve V8 engine with a dual-equal variable cam. The closed-cooled, catalyzed engine features a high torque intake manifold and a high-horsepower throttle body, as well as a 5-inch exhaust and an inline spiral flow muffler. This powerful package won Boating Industry’s 2017 Top Products Award in May. indmar.com
ILMOR MARINE launches its MV8 7.4L 483-hp engine proven to withstand both low-end torque loads as well as high-speed running conditions. This compact and lightweight (890 pounds) engine fills a gap in the gasoline sterndrive segment between 430- and 520-hp products. The 7.4L comes standard with an electric throttle, is octane-87 gas compatible and is designed with easy access to service points. Extended service intervals are expected after the break-in period—every 75 hours (or annually, whichever comes first)—and that allows more time on the water. It comes with Ilmor’s 5-year/500-hour factory-backed limited warranty. ilmor.com
POSITION CONTROL
Mastercraft will be showing its DockStar handling system that won the 2017 NMMA Innovation Award for making docking easier. DockStar delivers control with a system of additional rudders that deflect prop wash beneath the boat. The result is precise steering
while reversing to both port and starboard, making an inboard a snap to drive. Despite the added control, surfing, wakeboarding, and skiing aren’t affected by these rudders, which will be available on most 2018 MasterCraft models. mastercraft.com
TWIN DISC is implementing a Variable Idle Mode for its Express Joystick System (EJS) and Express Positioning System (EPS) for GPS-based station-keeping. Instead of the traditional high idle-only option, this new system provides responsive props and thrusters
when needed, making station-keeping smoother. With reduced fuel consumption and noise when slow maneuvering in calm conditions, this system increases only when higher prop and thruster speeds are demanded by the joystick in greater wind and sea states. Quiet operation and less fuel use is a vast improvement and a major step forward in inboard engine dynamic positioning systems. twindisc.com
EVINRUDE releases the iDock joystick piloting system now available on boats with twin
Evinrude E-TEC G2 150-hp or 300-hp engines. Advanced aircraft gyroscope sensor
technology makes iDock more intuitive by automatically compensating for wind and current. It also connects with the existing internal hydraulic steering feature of E-TEC
G2 engines, reducing the cost of parts, removing clutter on the transom and freeing
up storage space, and it requires less than an hour of setup time. When docking is easy, confidence grows and although outboard joystick maneuverability is not new, the MSRP of $5,999 is, and that makes it accessible to a new group of boaters. evinrude.com
Marinco is set to launch its Guest On-Board ChargePro battery chargers for 12-, 24-, 36-, and 48-volt systems. These chargers are up to 40 percent lighter and easier to install, and have easy-to-read graphics that show the status of each bank throughout the
charging process. ChargePro’s low profile, flangeless extruded aluminum housing is sealed by gaskets with heavy duty end caps for waterproof performance to IP67 standard. With fully automatic five-stage performance charging, individual battery sensing and auto maintain energy saver mode, these chargers are available for lead acid and sealed AGM batteries. marinco.com
XANTREX has expanded its Freedom series with the launch of four new sine wave
inverters and inverter/chargers. Called the Freedom X, the new series has features like
an extended surge for motor loads, a faster transfer time for a quick transition from shore to battery power, a huge wiring bay with quick connect AC terminals for fast and easy wiring, and an LED display. The models are lightweight and durable and have improved climate protection so they will survive the elements and provide full output in temperatures ranging from -4 to 104 degrees Fahrenheit. All models include an internal
30-amp transfer switch and can be hardwired or installed with the optional GFCI outlet. xantrex.com
MASTERVOLT announces the ChargeMaster Plus Series, an all-in-one solution for faster and safer charging that also reduces complexity and cost. This system integrates multiple functions into a single device, replacing auxiliary chargers, battery isolators and VSR. It charges virtually any combination of three batteries at high speed, works anywhere in the world and automatically revives even fully depleted batteries. The ChargeMaster Plus lets you combine lithium ion, gel or AGM batteries in large or small 12/24V banks on a single charger and without additional components. It also redirects available power to the lowest battery for faster charging. mastervolt.com
CLIMATE CONTROL
Mister-Comfort launches the AirCool Marine Misting System, a patent-pending design that provides a cool and dryish mist that drops the temperature in the immediate area up to 20 degrees. This system adjusts for both fan and mist levels and can be installed at the helm of center console boats. It can T into the boat’s existing water tank and comes with fan speed control and a directional nozzle. mist-er-comfort.com
BOAT PERFORMANCE
Imtra debuts the Zipwake Dynamic Trim Control system with advanced, intuitive 3D controls. The new system delivers a more comfortable ride, better performance and improved fuel consumption for any boat from 20 to 60 feet. It incorporates patented, durable fast-acting interceptors that provide efficient lift. Installation of the modular unit is simple with four different-sized blades allowing a near full-beam arrangement. Because the blades extend just 30 mm, they create less drag, and the design allows for full blade deployment in only 1.5 seconds, which is five times faster than conventional trim tabs. A base installation has a total of six interceptors without the need for additional connectors or power supplies. imtra.com
WATERMAKERS
Spectra Watermakers introduces the new Spectra Connect controller that lets you connect to your boat’s watermaker at any time from any place via your phone, tablet
or computer. The new One-Touch Fill feature runs the watermaker until the tanks are full, shuts the watermaker off, does a freshwater flush, and transitions into Auto- Store mode, keeping the watermaker ready for the next cycle. Suggested maintenance intervals remind the user when to change filters, replace a pump or perform routine preventive
maintenance, and a data-logging capability allows technicians to troubleshoot from anywhere, giving access to historical operating data, trends and alarm faults. spectrawatermakers.com
FCI WATERMAKERS will be showing its Atlas+APC ultra-compact watermaker that produces 1,400-3,600 gallons of water per day. Targeted at large yachts, this robust and efficient watermaker is built for extended run times and to commercial standards for reliability. Simple to configure using its state-of-the-art V4 controller, the Atlas+APC has an intuitive menu on a 7-inch touchscreen that makes it easy to program. Its one-piece powder-coated aluminum frame is open to provide access for maintenance and inspection, and the unit is quiet and vibration-free, thanks to its dual shock mounting system. fciwatermakers.com
AIR HANDLERS
Webasto introduces the BlueCool A-Series Air Handlers for climate control with cooling capacities from 4 to 36 kBTU/h. This compact, high-performance, modular design has a
unique condensation management system and is highly customizable with three form factors: Compact, Slimline and Low Profile. Components are plug and play, and there are lateral water diverter plates on the heat exchangers that prevent the condensate
from dripping down the sides. Heeling even at inclinations of up to 30 degrees is no longer a problem. webasto.co
By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating November 2017
Every boat owner should know these top three boat systems—and know them well.
Congratulations! You’ve purchased your dream boat, and you’re ready to cruise faraway lands in search of adventure and fruity drinks with little umbrellas in them. Not so fast! Now the real fun begins as you learn about the operation and function of the various equipment on board prior to heading out.
To help boost your maritime learning curve, here are three common boat systems every cruiser should be familiar with.
DC electrical system
When it comes to your boat’s DC electrical system, knowledge is power! Smart boaters will acquaint themselves with major components and how they interact to provide juice to the various systems and equipment on board before problems arise.
Parts to know on sight:
DC system components you should become intimately familiar with include batteries/battery banks, primary on/ off battery switches and the location of any breakers or fuses within the system.
Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:
If your DC system utilizes fuses, knowing where they are and having spares for each type (cartridge, spade, etc.) is a must. Read through the owner’s manuals of electrical equipment you have installed (to determine if they come with inline fuses), and don’t forget to carry spares for any unusual or specialty fuses you may need (engine starting, windlass, etc.).
In addition to the tools commonly found in the basic kit, the No. 1 item you’ll want to have on board when troubleshooting your DC system is a multimeter. It’s indispensable for tracing DC voltages, testing fuses and tracking down broken wires or corroded connectors. You don’t need anything fancy, and since they can be found at most hardware stores for as little as $5, there’s no excuse for not having one in your toolkit.
Other good-to-have items are a 15-foot jumper wire with alligator clips on each end (to help troubleshoot wiring circuits), crimpon butt and terminal connectors, wire tripper/crimpers, heat shrink and liquid electrical tape (for sealing connections), WD-40 (or a similar corrosion inhibitor), a small wire brush (for clearing away corrosion), and possibly an assortment of wire (various lengths and sizes).
Fuel system
When fellow cruisers say getting there is half the fun, it’s obvious they’ve never been stranded on the water due to a stalled engine. If it happens, you’ll find getting your boat moving again will be ALL the fun you’re looking for. More often than not, an on-the-water, no-go event will likely involve the fuel system.
Parts to know on sight:
This is another system that you should be able to trace out (from tank fi ll to engine) before problems occur. Components to locate and identify include a fuel tank fill hose and fuel line fittings, fuel shut-off valves and all fuel filters.
Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:
Have spare filter cartridges or cartridges for both primary and secondary filters on hand. Familiarity with the requirements for bleeding your diesel after fuel filter changes is also highly recommended. This maintenance item will go much smoother if you know how to do it beforehand.
Sanitation system
With the possible exception of “Where’s all this water coming from?”, probably no other statement strikes more fear in a boat owner’s heart than: “The toilet isn’t working for some reason.” It’s particularly troubling when you realize the issue typically doesn’t make itself known until after “the deed” has already been done.
Parts to know on sight:
This depends on the type of marine sanitation system you have installed. Gravity fed toilets (aka Porta Potti-type units) are pretty simple and work just like the name implies. They have a bowl that essentially dumps its contents directly into an integral holding tank, which can be removed and discarded in the appropriate receptacle on shore.
Permanently mounted sanitation systems will generally have a flushwater intake thru-hull and seacock (although in some cases this may also be plumbed to the boat’s freshwater system), a manual- or electric-flush toilet, a holding tank, and a deck fitting for dockside pumpouts.
Additional components you may see (depending on the system) include “Y” selector valves (allowing you to discharge bowl contents directly overboard or into a holding tank or waste from a holding tank to a macerator or deck pump-out), vented loops (to prevent back siphoning and flooding), a macerator pump, and an overboard discharge thru-hull and seacock.
Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:
Spare parts can range from gaskets and seals to entire rebuild kits for the toilet pump. A great place to look for advice on this is the owner’s manual, which will usually provide a suggested list of spare parts. A basic tool kit containing screwdrivers, a socket set, etc., as well as a few extra hose clamps, will also come in handy, particularly if you have to disassemble hose runs to look for clogs—a job that’s just as nasty as it sounds.
Images of vessels lost during the recent Hurricanes Harvey and Irma are still fresh in the minds of many. These catastrophic storms galvanize the need to have an anchoring plan in place, even for those whose boats are on inland lakes. Fortress Marine Anchors offers free resources to assist owners in developing the skills needed to keep a boat safely anchored during a storm. Focused more on education than product, they provide a wealth of information.
Surviving a Storm at Anchor by noted author Tom Neale is a comprehensive look at the techniques and equipment needed to safely ride-out a storm. It covers topics every boater should be familiar with, such as anchor selection and how many to set, the importance of the rode, foredeck gear, chafe protection, reducing windage and storm hole selection. The document can be downloaded at fortressanchors.com/SSA.pdf.
A Safe Anchoring Guide is an easily understood primer that guides the reader through the fundamentals of anchoring and creating a storm anchoring plan. It’s available online in an animated format or for download at fortressanchors.com/resources/safe-anchoring-guide.
Manufactured in the USA of marine-grade aluminum-magnesium alloy, Fortress Marine Anchors are adjustable for specific seabed conditions. Incredibly efficient, the 69 lb. FX-125 model was chosen as the primary anchor for the US Coast Guard’s 154′ Sentinel-class of cutters. It offers eight models for recreational and commercial vessels.
Contact:
Fortress Marine Anchors: 1386 W McNab Rd., Ft Lauderdale, FL 33309
Toll-free US only 800-825-6289, 954-978-9988. fortressanchors.com
Want more? Southern Boating has tons of additional anchoring tips.
Twin Disc’s Express Joystick System® eliminates steering wheel and control lever use in docking. It cranks up a boat’s throttle through the EC300 Power Commander system, delivering effortless control and powerful maneuverability. Point the bow in any direction without moving from a fixed position with Twin Disc’s Joystick.
Digital switching is one of the hottest trends in the boating world, and while typically associated with larger yachts, the technology is rapidly finding its way onto smaller crafts.
But what exactly is digital switching, and is it really the wave of the future? From planning a single project to rewiring an entire boat, digital switching will make the job easier. Here’s a primer to help you ride that technological wave, rather than be swamped by it.
While you may not be familiar with the marine use of digital switching, your car or truck has used some form of it for decades. Digital switching is a networked control and monitoring system that replaces conventional DC mechanical circuit breakers and switches with a digital power distribution/switching system operating on a NMEA 2000 network.
Unlike mechanical circuit breakers and switches, however, digital systems are programmable. This means users can control onboard electrical and electronic systems (lighting, security systems, bilge pumps, etc.) from any point in the NMEA network around the boat utilizing a network-connected multifunction display, smartphone or tablet.
DIGITAL SWITCHING BENEFITS AT A GLANCE
“Plug and play” components mean the system can more easily be repaired, updated or upgraded and integrated with the large touchscreen displays at the helm of many of today’s yachts. Some systems automatically program a replacement module when plugged in, meaning end users can make repairs, eliminating the need for a service call.
Replaces bulky, expensive switch panels and wire runs with smaller, more robust cabling and digital control modules, reducing installation cost and complexity.
Systems are user customizable. Need your bilge pump to stay on a pre-determined time after pressing the on button or to shut off when the switch is released? No problem—USB ports allow the owner to load upgrades and configurations with a USB stick and the touch of a button—a virtual button, that is.
Digital switching offers a number of advantages to the builder/installer: more effective modular system installation, flexibility in layout, easy system expandability, as well as cost and weight savings for reduced cabling runs and sizes. A reduction in conventional hard-wired switches means fewer holes to be drilled to install them, leading to cleaner/simpler helm consoles. Also, boat models which may have taken weeks to wire in the past can now be completed in days.
Easier troubleshooting with system failure notification. Those fancy touchscreen buttons are not just high-tech, virtual reality versions of electromechanical on/off switches. When you turn that anchor light on, the system knows the current draw and voltage level that should be passing through it and will alert you if something is amiss via icons on the display.
Significantly increases system reliability by eliminating corrosion-prone mechanical switches and wire connections. A properly designed and installed digital switching system will provide much greater dependability (and flexibility) than a mechanical switching system ever could.
Allows you to call up virtual buttons on one or multiple compatible touchscreen multifunction displays.
Integrations
Digital switching is also readily integrated with chartplotters and multifunction displays (MFDs) that are so popular on today’s boats. This enables you to monitor vessel systems (such as tank levels or battery capacity) via easy-to-read graphics, which can be displayed alongside traditional MFD systems, such as radar, depth, video, and chartplotter information. This integration also provides the advantage of calling up virtual buttons on multiple touchscreen MFDs, giving you the option of eliminating one or more switch panels altogether.
Another great feature is the ability to energize groups or series of switching operations with the press of a single touchscreen button. Through the wonders of programmable digital switching, you can now step on board and turn on all of the electrical systems and electronics you’ll need for a day of fishing or a week of cruising with one virtual button. Once back at the dock, that button can again be used to shut down multiple systems (no more running around to different circuit breaker panels) while leaving required systems in use.
Timer or Delayed Off functions can also be easily set. Want the lights to remain on for 20 minutes after leaving the boat? Or how about running the engine room fan for 30 minutes after shutting the motors down? Digital switching makes both easy and user-programmable. “Fade & Dimming” modes also allow you to control light intensity and fade in or out smoothly without the need for complex dimming circuits.
Just realized you forgot to turn the stereo system off or the bilge alarm system on after that two-hour drive from the marina? Couple digital switching with Wi-Fi, cellular or satellite communications (depending on the system), and do both from the comfort of home while resting in your favorite Barcalounger.
By Frank Lanier Southern Boating Magazine, July 2017
Having solar power on your boat means more time for enjoyment on the water, less time thinking about returning to the dock to plug in. SUNFLARE’s thin-film solar panels are flexible, environmentally friendly and affordable. Easy to install, they can be cut to fit any shape on all rooflines to maximize energy gathering.
The Internet of Things (IoT): By now, you’ve probably heard of it and know it’s a thing. This concept of hyper-interconnectivity and information sharing between everyday items such as washing machines, refrigerators, lamps, wearable items, engines, roads, bridges, and more is looming on the horizon. What it means is still a mystery, but one thing’s for sure: It will impact our lives in subtle and not-so-subtle ways, and that includes boating connectivity.
Always stretching the boundaries, marine electronics’ firms are developing a specific subset of the concept that could be called the Internet of Boats, and it’s all coming together in your multifunction display (MFD).
The cost of connectivity is decreasing as broadband Internet becomes widely available. Today, most devices are integrated with multiple data-gathering sensors and WiFi capabilities so they can capture and share information. It’s more than just about connecting people to people; it’s connecting things to things. Anything with an on/off switch and an Internet connection can become a part of the IoT, so think what that means on your boat. Lights, pumps, engines, security and navigation equipment can communicate with each other and also with entities off the boat. Sounds like the Internet of Boats.
Data sharing means engine and boat builders, accessory suppliers, dealers, service providers, and cruisers can have access to more information. Therefore boats, engines, and equipment can be built with less complexity so more cost effectively, and everything has the possibility of becoming more efficient, secure, social, and definitely user-friendly. For the cruiser, this may translate to increased confidence that your engines are healthy, that you have the latest navigation software and that the response time to fix problems will be shorter. That means you have a more supported adventure every time you untie the dock lines.
Yamaha partnered with Garmin to power its CL7TM multi-touch display.
Your boat can talk to you as well as to a dealer or a search-and-rescue provider. You can set geofencing boundaries so you know where your vessel is at all times. Your engines can remind you of scheduled maintenance or warn of impending problems. Digital switching systems like CZone can send reports on bilge pump cycles and battery levels. You can unlock enhanced features like Doppler radar on existing MFDs with remote software access keys without your boat needing to go in the shop or you having to purchase additional expensive hardware.
None of this is really new, but what is different is the recognition of the power of the sum and the importance it’s bringing to the MFD. The MFD is evolving as the single point of convergence and problem solving aboard. Engines, radar, charting, and digital switching for onboard accessories are now brought into the MFD for both control and diagnostics. You can turn on your lights and stereo, check the weather, view remote cameras, review alarms, get engine diagnostics, and navigate—all from the MFD. This wealth of information hasn’t gone unnoticed by electronics manufacturers like Navico (makers of Simrad, B&G, Lowrance), Garmin, Furuno, and Raymarine, who understand that he who owns the “glass” owns the data and thereby basically controls not only the boat but also the value chain and the ultimate cruiser experience.
Challenges remain. First, boating is a relatively small industry with few consumer dollars at stake, so it won’t lead the IoT revolution. But to not take notice of it would be a mistake, even in our application. Second, data is great but unless someone can monetize it, nobody will have the incentive to pursue its development. Simrad is working to share information with engine manufacturers who in turn, can build engines better and faster so they’re willing to pay Simrad for it. Charter companies are in on both sides since they can gather more data to share because of the volume of users. They can also benefit from the distilled data coming back to better predict maintenance requirements so that their boats are always ready to go out and produce revenue.
Third, onboard sensors can generate vast amounts of data, but that won’t make boating better unless someone figures out how to turn it into real information to build stronger, cheaper, cleaner, friendlier, and more efficient products. Marine electronics firms get this. Finally, although much of this happens behind the scenes, an intuitive user interface is critical so that cruisers want to get involved and enable the process. You already see MFDs mimicking the functionality of personal electronics like smartphones and tablets with pinch-to-zoom touchscreens and swipe commands. Expect to see more app-driven functionality to pop up on your chart plotter soon.
If you think all this will make boating efficient, fun and more like the rest of our lives, you’re probably right. If you think future boating will become more complex, interdependent and possibly invasive, you’re probably right. Either way, it’s all most likely to happen right on your MFD, so upgrading electronics in the future will get you more than just new charts. The waters are still murky, but whatever it means, it’s coming. Boating will not be the same, and neither will your MFD.
— By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating Magazine April 2017
Rartian Engineering’s Macerator Pump with Waste Valve makes marine sanitation service quick and easy. This technical innovation, recently awarded a U.S. patent, has a Viton motor shaft seal to reduce leakage and will discharge from the top, left or right. The macerator pump is available in 12 or 24V DC. MSRP starting at $290; raritaneng.com
Add a deck washdown system for a squeaky clean boat.
As a marine surveyor I’ve often wondered why many boat manufacturers don’t include a deck washdown system as standard equipment. After all, the “stuff” a boat owner has to deal with—from fish blood to the fragrant evidence that Uncle Joe had one too many margaritas last night—is easier to remove sooner rather than later back at the dock, after it has dried to a concrete-like consistency. In addition, rinsing your anchor chain prior to storage not only reduces corrosion (particularly in the case of freshwater washdowns) but also keeps the un-hygienic smell of Davy Jones’ gym locker from permeating the entire boat. Installing a washdown system is easily within the ability of most any DIY’er. Here’s how to make it happen:
Water supply options Start by planning out your entire installation (hose runs, pump location, power supply, etc.) before drilling holes. Consider the washdown system’s water source. Most are plumbed as a “raw water” system utilizing the water your boat is in. In the case of saltwater fed systems, this means you’ll still want to deal with the salty residue left behind once back at the dock (to avoid corrosion issues), but in my opinion, a salty boat is better than a nasty one any day.
A second option is tapping into the boat’s freshwater system. This will typically limit the amount of water you can use (based on tank size) but does have the advantage of reducing the effects of corrosion on metal components via freshwater washdowns.
A third option is plumbing your system to draw from both. This gives you an unlimited supply of saltwater to power off grime, plus the option of a final freshwater rinse with minimal drain on your potable water supply.
Freshwater washdown systems are plumbed into the freshwater system at some convenient point (possibly near the tank). Raw water systems require either a dedicated thru-hull or connection via a “T” fitting into an existing raw water system hose.
Using an existing thru-hull is the most common route, as most owners tend to shy away from cutting additional holes in their boats. It also has the added benefit of allowing you to complete the installation with the boat in the water by simply shutting the seacock of the raw water system you’re tapping into.
Choosing a pump Pump selection (and adequate water flow) are the most crucial aspects of the system. Nothing is more frustrating than trying to power off anchor chain crud with a wimpy stream of water. The trick is finding a moderately priced pump that not only provides adequate pressure with minimal power draw but can also stand up to the marine environment.
A typical deck washdown pump’s output pressure ranges from 3-12 GPM (gallons per minute) with prices of $100 or less to over $1,000. Buying a deck washdown package (a kit that includes pump, deck fitting, deck hose, etc.) will often save money. Also, the pump’s warranty can vary from one to three years—the longer coverage period, the better, of course.
Washdown deck fitting
Installation considerations When selecting a location for your washdown pump, choose an accessible area well above where bilge water accumulates. The pump should also be between the water supply and planned deck outlet, ideally as close as possible to its power source to simplify wiring runs. As pumps are more efficient at pushing water than pulling, the location should also be as close as possible to the supply thru-hull or freshwater tank.
Be sure the pump installation itself is in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions and that it includes an intake strainer between the pump and water supply in order to prevent pump damage due to debris.
Pumps vary in their ability to self-prime or lift water vertically in order to start pumping. Some are rated at 8-9 feet, while others may only be able to overcome 2 feet of “head” when pumping. Make sure the location you’ve chosen doesn’t exceed the pump’s self-priming ability.
If installing a freshwater-only washdown system, don’t be tempted to simply cut into the system and use your existing freshwater pump. You can do it, but don’t expect too much from such an install. Pumps used in freshwater systems weren’t designed to move large amounts of water quickly and lack the pressure of a good washdown pump. When planning your install you’ll also need to figure out where to locate the deck outlet. Most folks simply mount it on the foredeck (close to the anchor) as cleaning ground tackle is often viewed as its primary job, however there’s no rule saying you have to put it there.
Regardless of where you decide to install the outlet, make sure you have enough space beneath the deck to accommodate the hose and associated fittings and that you won’t be drilling into anything unexpected (wiring or cables) while cutting the mounting hole. Seal the edges of the hole with thickened epoxy when cutting through cored decks (balsa, plywood, etc.) to prevent water intrusion into the core (and rot) later on. Bedding the fitting with a suitable marine caulking will help in this regard as well.
Installation of a pressurized washdown system is an excellent return for a relatively small investment of time and money. Cleanups after raising the anchor will be a cinch, and you’ll find so many other uses for the system—hosing off the dog, rinsing the dingy, giving the kids a bath—you’ll wonder how you ever got along without it.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine November 2016
“Water, water, everywhere, and all the boards did shrink. Water, water, everywhere, nor any drop to drink.”
I can’t read those lines from the seafaring classic The Rime of the Ancient Mariner without thinking “Those guys sure could’ve used a watermaker!” But owning a watermaker is only half the equation. Like any onboard mechanical system, a reverse osmosis (RO) unit requires routine maintenance to ensure proper operation. While the manufacturer should be consulted regarding maintenance requirements for your particular make or model, here are a few requirements that will be common to most any unit and help ensure yours runs smoothly.
How they work
In a nutshell, a watermaker or RO system uses a high-pressure pump to push saltwater (supply water) against a semi-permeable membrane reversing osmotic flow. A portion of the supply water (roughly 10 percent) passes through the membrane’s microscopic pores and emerges as freshwater, which is then pumped to the ship’s water tanks. The remaining 90 percent—along with the salt and other solids left behind by the desalinated water—are flushed away by excess supply water, which flows past the membrane and is pumped overboard.
Pre-filters
A watermaker’s supply side (between the seawater pickup and the membrane) consists of a low-pressure pump, pre-filters and a high-pressure pump. Most systems use two pre-filters, typically a 20 or 30-micron filter, followed by a 5-micron filter. As oil can quickly damage an RO membrane, many systems also include a supply water oil separation filter.
Watermakers need an ample flow of water to operate, which means keeping the pre-filters clean. If they begin to clog, supply pressure (and output) begins to drop. Most watermaker units have a gauge to monitor supply pressure. Regular monitoring and replacement of these filters will not only increase freshwater output but is also better for the RO unit itself in the long run.
In addition to the pre-filters, most manufacturers recommend the installation of a sea strainer at the supply water intake thru-hull. It should be sized to filter out anything larger than 50 microns or so. The strainer itself should be cleaned regularly as part of your routine maintenance schedule.
Membrane maintenance
The heart of your RO system is the membrane. Membrane life expectancy for a well-maintained system is around five years but can be much longer in systems that are used regularly and scrupulously maintained. While operating your system in water that’s blue or at least somewhat clear looking will help reduce maintenance and increase membrane service life, just as important to longevity is how well the system is maintained while not in use.
Most modern watermakers come with (or have the option to add) a manual or automatic membrane flushing system. This allows you to draw freshwater from the vessel’s water tank (typically weekly) and pump it through the membrane, purging the system of saltwater. When flushing, make sure the water used does not contain chlorine, which can quickly ruin your membrane. Use “product” water (i.e. water produced by the watermaker) whenever possible. If using water from your vessel’s freshwater tanks, make sure it is chlorine free. Systems that will be out of service for extended periods of time (six months or longer) should be flushed with a biocide per the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Pumps
High-pressure pump
The high- and low-pressure pumps in your system also require routine maintenance. Some may require oil changes and seal replacement every 500 hours or so, but many newer units can go significantly longer between service intervals, sometimes as high as 8,000 hours. Others can be water cooled and require no oil changes. The first place to look is the owner’s manual, which should specify the required maintenance items and intervals for your particular system.
Finally, use these simple tips:
Do…
Keep the membrane wet. Allowing it to dry out will drastically reduce service life.
Use the system regularly, even daily, if possible. (Watermakers hate inactivity.)
Check the system routinely for leaks, corrosion, and other issues.
Flush the system with fresh water after each use.
Clean the pre-filters often, weekly if the system is used regularly.
Install a supply line oil separation filter.
Monitor the system daily while in use, and keep a log of output, water quality, etc.
Preserve the membrane with biocide solution for longtime storage.
Don’t…
Use the system in silty, oily or polluted water (harbors, for instance).
Operate the system with insufficient supply water flow.
Use chlorinated water to flush the system.
Let the RO membrane(s) dry out.
Clean the unit with harsh chemicals. Use soap and water or mild glass cleaners only.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
The new Seakeeper 3 gyro system offers stability previously only available to boats 40 feet and up.
It still surprises me how many people suffer from seasickness in spite of all the medications that are available and technology developments that lessen the rock-and-roll at sea. Several years ago, I met a wealthy yacht owner whose wife was extremely prone to seasickness. To her credit, however, she wasn’t willing to give up on their dream to circumnavigate the globe. Her husband researched extensively and found a yacht that was designed to significantly reduce the rocking motion that causes seasickness. They then went to the North Sea to test a prototype in the most turbulent conditions possible. He found her calmly knitting a scarf during their sea trial, unaffected by the rough seas, and he ordered one built for their extensive cruising itinerary. Several years later they embarked on their circumnavigation together on their new yacht. Not everyone who suffers from seasickness, however, can afford to buy a custom yacht.
The Seakeeper 3 provides stabilization for boats from 30 to 39 feet.
Fortunately, owners of boats 40 feet or larger can retrofit their craft with aftermarket marine stabilization technology by Seakeeper, Inc., providing the boat’s design accommodates the unit. The company first introduced their gyro stabilizing systems in 2008 for boats larger than 40-feet LOA and commercial craft. Owners of boats smaller than 40 feet, however, have had no option other than to leave their seasick-prone family and friends at the dock. That recently changed.
At the 2016 Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show last November, Seakeeper revealed the release of its newest and smallest model yet: the Seakeeper 3 designed for boats sized 30 to 39 feet. According to the manufacturer, the Seakeeper 3 reduces up to 95 percent of the motion that contributes to the often-debilitating effects of seasickness, including angst, nausea and weariness. The Seakeeper 3 is also 30 percent lighter and 25 percent smaller than their other models; the new addition gives owners of smaller boats the option to add increased stabilization to their existing craft. Seakeeper offered sea trials during the boat show so that builders, boat owners and the media could experience the stabilizing effects of the Seakeeper 3 firsthand. “We had a customer with us that just commissioned a 34-foot center console build and was on the fence about adding the gyro,” said Joel Kauffman from Xcelerator Boatworks. “Well, before we even finished the sea trial we had definite plans for a Seakeeper gyro on our new build! The customer was in true disbelief at how effective the gyro was in very extreme situations. We were also very impressed with its physical size for ease of installation, low noise level, and operation smoothness. We now have plans for gyros in our next three builds: a 64-foot convertible, 34-foot center console and a 40-foot walkaround. We are all very excited with what Seakeeper has brought to the table in recent years!”
Since many boats in the 30-39′ range do not already have a generator, adapting the product with that in mind was of paramount importance. The Seakeeper 3 runs exclusively on 12-volt DC power, so the refit process is simple and does not require additional power systems or complicated modifications. Installation involves a customized leaning post design and can be completed in only two days. Andrew Semprevivo, Seakeeper Vice President of Sales and Marketing said in a press release that the Seakeeper 3 offers their technology to smaller vessels, which is the next step in the company’s goal to bring stabilization to the boating mainstream. “By offering an optimized solution for boats between 30- and 39-feet long, Seakeeper is offering stabilization solutions to a whole new range of boats for the first time. It truly is our biggest, smallest thing yet.”
The Seakeeper 3 can be ordered now for shipments starting in Spring 2017. MSRP is $26,900.
— By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
Heavy-duty lifting is this marine powerhouse’s job.
Dropping anchor in a beautiful cove is often the goal of cruisers, who seek and set sail for stunning destinations only accessed by water. To aid anchor deployment and retrieval, most cruising vessels are equipped with a windlass, and power options include manual, electric or hydraulic. Installing a windlass can aid a cruiser for years to come.
The electrically powered windlass is the type most often used on cruisers. Vertical windlass designs have the electric motor and rope/chain gypsy (the chain wheel that the chain and rope roll up on) installed in a compartment just below deck on the bow, while horizontal designs have the entire lifting assembly mounted on the bow and covered for protection. An electric windlass allows the anchor line to pay out at a controlled speed as you deploy your anchor. When you’re ready to haul the anchor up, you hit the switch and the electric motor hauls in your chain and anchor.
Windlass technology does not change quickly, yet there have been advancements in metallurgic compounds and motor and gearbox designs. For example, Anchorlift uses AISI 316L-grade solid stainless steel for the production of all of its models and accessories. John Lynch, Anchorlift general manager, explains why. “The reason is durability and stability of the material. AISI 316L stainless steel is the best available, and we don’t use nylon, aluminum or plastic because we feel these reduce performance and compromise the durability of the windlass.”
Anchorlift Aquarius 2500 Series Windlass
Other leading windlass manufacturers include Lewmar, Maxwell Marine and Quick Nautical Equipment. Windlass selection is based on three criteria: vessel size, vessel weight and anchor size. “These all go into the science of selecting the appropriate windlass for the boat, because it’s not just the windlass that is needed,” Lynch explains. “You need to have the correct bow roller for the style anchor that is used, and the anchor design affects this as well as the position of the windlass, whether it is deck-mounted or thru-hull.”
Boat owners also need to utilize the correct rode kit, which is determined by the gypsy size in the windlass, how deep you normally anchor, the size of the anchor locker, and your scope ratio (the distance of rode compared with the depth you are in). In addition, whether the boat has a 12v or 24v power system is also a factor.
Lynch says their website was designed to take out the guesswork for customers. “We have an extensive amount of information, photos, drawings, diagrams, comparisons, and specifications available to view and download in order to help make the selection process very easy. Plus we have staff that is always available to answer calls regarding windlass and windlass accessories.”
Maintaining the windlass involves rinsing the windlass with fresh water after a day of use and polishing periodically to keep its shiny luster – especially stainless steel. Boat owners should ensure the unit is properly greased and that no corrosion starts to form on the surfaces of the unit. This includes the motor and gearbox of a vertical windlass that are located below deck, usually in the anchor locker.
“We recommend using an anti-corrosion spray (paraffin based) and spray the entire motor and gearbox thoroughly,” Lynch adds. “Boat owners should periodically check to see if any white powdery material (corrosion) is present. If so, remove it with a wire brush and apply more anti-corrosion spray. The anchor locker is a harsh environment and gets very wet when the rode (anchor rope and chain) whips around in there when the windlass is in use. This creates a very unfriendly environment for materials that can corrode.”
Regardless of the manufacturer and model installed, user error can still happen on the water. For example, a windlass should never be used to haul the seabed to the boat, or drag the boat to the anchor. This can cause damage to the windlass such as a bent shaft or damage to the vessel itself.
“The only way to avoid any mistakes is to follow the manufacturer’s recommended use of the product,” Lynch says. “If you have never used a windlass before, there are blogs, websites and, of course, your local marina staff that will help you decide which is right for you and how to properly use it. We also strongly suggest professional installation of the windlass and its accessories. Although they look easy to install, it can become quite involved and frustrating once you get into it.”
Anchorlift’s Anchor Turner Kit also helps boat owners avoid problems with twisting anchors when they’re retracted. It includes an anchor connector swivel and anchor turner, which helps the anchor park correctly in the bow roller rather than upside down.
Adding a unit is easy, and provides confidence and safety when docking in challenging conditions.
Single-screw boats can be difficult to dock without aid in wind or when fighting current. Even experienced captains will relent for safety’s sake and ask for a helpful hand—someone on the dock who gets tossed a bow line and pulls the boat in. With a bow thruster, however, that helpful hand is a small propeller positioned forward on the boat and it applies side-to-side propulsion to get you safely docked.
If a boat doesn’t have a bow thruster, some boat owners are drilling tunnels through the bows of their boats. The tunnel is structurally engineered to accept the retrofit of a bow thruster, and when properly installed it adds strength to the vessel.
“Many people believe that drilling a 4-inch hole or larger in their boat will weaken the structure,” says Chris Deboy, Vestus America’s sales manager, a manufacturer of bow thrusters and other marine products. “The opposite is true, as long as the thruster tunnel is installed properly, using fiberglass, aluminum or steel, depending on the hull material. The installation can add strength to the bow of the vessel. This would include the proper lamination of the fiberglass tunnel or proper welding of the aluminum or steel tunnel.”
Lewmar bow thruster joystick
It’s estimated that half of all recreational boats from 30 to 65 feet have bow thrusters. Aftermarket installations are becoming common as people fix up their boats. To complete the work the boat must be hauled out for detailed fiberglass work as a tunnel housing is installed in the hull with the bow thruster impeller. The impeller is driven by an electric motor powered by its own battery. The cost to install a bow thruster on a 40-foot cruiser is approximately $8,000, and about 60 percent of that cost is for labor while the rest is for parts. Three companies have the majority of market share in the U.S.: Lewmar, Side-Power and Vetus.
Side-Power introduced its Proportional DC Thrusters in 2011 and won an NMMA Innovation Award that same year. “You can now operate a thruster relative to the conditions like a throttle providing smoother operation,” says Peter Nolet, IMTRA Corporation’s thruster product manager, the U.S. distributor for Side-Power. “The ‘hold’ feature is very popular. The SE170 is the most popular size for a 50-foot cruising boat and delivers 374 foot-pounds of thrust, and is used on models like the Fleming 55 and a Princess 56. With our full range of Side-Power Thrusters being available in On-Off or Proportional Control, we can meet any customer’s expectations.”
With the proper size electric motor for the bow thruster, the boat should hold its bow off the dock in a 20-knot wind. However, there’s a misconception surrounding the amount of time you can run an electric bow thruster.
“The common misconception is that you can only run the bow thruster for a few seconds,” says Nolet. “Side-Power Thrusters are designed to be run continuously in one direction for three minutes. When pulsing the On-Off thruster, you will get around six minutes of operation. We rarely hear about the motor’s thermal protection tripping, which is a testament to our purpose-built motors. If you have a Side-Power and are only getting a short run time, I would suggest you service the thruster.”
Vetus’ most popular model for a 50-foot cruising boat is the BOW12524D. “This unit is delivered with a single six-blade Delrin propeller which provides 308 foot-pounds of thrust,” says Deboy. “The single propeller allows greater flexibility for installation of the tunnel and thruster. The BOW12524D offers a standard run time of 2.5 minutes per hour and can be ordered as an extended run version, BOW1254DE, with 10 minutes of run time per hour for demanding applications.”
The percentage of new boats with factory installed bow thrusters has increased over the years with an additional increase in bow thrusters on boats under 30 feet. Bow thrusters give owners moving into larger boats the confidence to operate the vessels without worry.
“For 2017 we are offering a new range of retractable thrusters from 3-13 horsepower as well as improving our controller systems,” says Harcourt Schutz, general manager of Lewmar USA. “The new controllers will make dual thruster use easier and more intuitive. You will also see more emphasis on small boat systems.”
Lewmar’s 185TT bow thruster is a popular choice for 50-foot cruising boats. The 8-hp unit offers equal thrust in each direction without the complexity of dual-prop thruster. Its fully sealed lower unit doesn’t require an oil reservoir, which means there’s no maintenance of the lower leg. The propeller is a spline-driven, five-blade wheel for maximum efficiency. “Smaller boat owners are really seeing the benefits of having the addition of a thruster as standard equipment,” says Schutz. “This is creating a much higher level of comfort and confidence when docking, and that is often one of the most stressful parts of boating.”
