Boat systems are inherently different than that of similar counterpart systems. Heads are certainly not bathrooms, nor are galleys quite the same as kitchens. Southern Boating has articles and resources to keep your heads, galleys and other boat systems in ship-shape.
Feeling sluggish and inadequate? Eagerly awaiting that weekend water time but worried your small boat won’t be ready to perform when the big moment arrives? Don’t worry; there are plenty of options available to help boost your boat’s performance and control when it’s time to hit the water.
Need for speed Everyone needs a little get up and go at some point, whether it’s that G-force inducing hole shot or flat out running speed necessary to beat the competition to that prime fishing hole.
One simple way to improve your speed is by keeping your hull and running gear clean. Like Mom used to say, a clean boat just runs better, so make cleaning, waxing and polishing a part of your routine maintenance schedule. Your attention to detailing will pay off in more ways than just increased speed and improved fuel economy. A well-maintained boat shows better, so think of the financial benefits you’ll reap when “the second happiest day in a boat owner’s life” comes around.
Improve your planing efficiency Proper trim and efficient planing go hand in hand. Achieving static (non-moving) trim can be as simple as balancing your boat by distributing weight (passengers, coolers, portable fuel tanks, etc.) to keep the hull floating level.
Achieving static trim is one thing, but you’ll also need to make adjustments while underway to account for speed, water conditions, direction of travel (with regard to waves and wind), etc. Smaller boats, for example, will ride bumpier in surface chop if left trimmed at calm water angles. Fortunately, trim options for today’s boat owner aren’t limited to repositioning big-boned Aunt June in efforts to provide a smoother ride. Tilt and trim controls for outboards and stern-drive units provide an easy, touch-of-a-button solution for making those on-the-fly adjustments. Trim tabs (such as the Bennett SLT Self-Leveling Tabs) and products like the Doel-Fin by Davis Instruments are popular aftermarket installation options to help improve planing efficiency.
Davis Instruments’ Doel-Fin
A properly trimmed boat is not only safer to operate but also provides a more comfortable ride as well as better speed and increased fuel economy. Monitor vessel trim throughout the day so that you can make any necessary adjustments as the contents of fuel tanks and ice chests are used or consumed.
Better control While everyone likes to be in control, control on the water means varying things to different boat owners. Satisfy your inner cruiser and turn your sled into a glide-ride by adding cruise control or, cooler still, a Hot Foot accelerator. Improve loose, worn steering by upgrading to a higher quality system and components like the Teleflex Extreme. Take your steering up a notch by adding an autopilot or take complete control by adding a joystick driving system such as the Teleflex Marine Optimus 360 by SeaStar. This steering/shift/throttle control system—designed for powerboats with mechanically controlled twin outboards—provides 360-degree maneuvering capabilities when docking, negotiating crowded areas or loading onto your trailer.
What are the benefits? A top-notch steering system delivers better control, while having a cruise control and Hot Foot allows you to focus on steering without the distraction of working a hand throttle. (How could having a foot-operated gas pedal on your boat not be awesome?) Joystick control makes you look like a pro, particularly when maneuvering into that crowded yacht club dock to catch the hot wings lunch special at the tiki bar.
As to cost, a new Teleflex Extreme system runs around $250, while you can get a Hot Foot for less than $200. But if you want to move sideways and do those cool 360-degree turns, get ready to sell the kids for medical experiments; entry level for the Optimus 360 starts out at around $7,000 and goes upwards of $17,000 for a complete system.
Jack up your outboard engine It’s a fact: the less something sticks in the water, the less drag it produces. A jack plate, such as those provided by CMC Marine (cmcmarineproducts.com), allows you to vertically raise your engine, reducing drag and improving both performance and fuel efficiency. The jack plate is mounted to the transom and the engine is then attached. Unlike the tilt and trim function your engine may already have, a jack plate allows you to raise the engine while keeping it more or less horizontal, channeling the engine’s thrust in the most efficient direction (parallel to the water’s surface). This position not only makes getting up on plane quicker and easier in shallow waters, but it’s also more efficient than simply trimming your outboard up, which alters the direction of the propeller’s thrust to a less efficient angle. Another benefit is that installation of a jack plate moves your outboard between 4-10 inches farther aft, meaning engine trim will have an even greater influence on performance.
By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine June 2016
The last thing you need when pulling someone else’s yacht out into the fairway of an unfamiliar, and oftentimes busy, marina is to have the horn fail. In this case, the yacht was headed in, so when I pressed the horn switch at the lower helm to indicate that I was maneuvering astern and nothing happened, there was only a moment to spare.
Fortunately, I’d sent my mate aft with a rechargeable air horn and, with a quick handheld radio hail from me, he provided the requisite three short blasts after a quick look up and down the fairway. I thanked our lucky stars for portable safety gear—signal horns and handheld VHF radios in this case. “Not a Kahlenberg,” I thought out loud.
KB-15W with CM-16 and Mic
Signal horns and hailing devices may be the most overlooked safety systems aboard yachts these days. In the 12- to 20-meter category (40 to 65 feet), if you didn’t have a working USCG/IMO-approved horn and a working radio/hailer, you were out of compliance.
The gold standard in air horns for yachts worthy of the name has long been Kahlenberg. The Two Rivers, Wisconsin-based company has been a trusted source for the highest quality sound signaling gear on every kind of ship, from a large family cruiser to an aircraft carrier, for 120 years. Manufactured in the USA to the highest standards, Kahlenberg has earned, and continues to earn, accolades for longevity and reliability.
Recently, the company married their signaling expertise to offer a combined electronic horn and hailing system that is USCG-type approved for all types of vessels up to 20 meters in length. The Kahlenberg KB-15 is based on an in-or-under console-mounted black box control module, a console-mounted speaker/microphone, and a high-output marine duty speaker which can mount in a variety of locations. It is available for 12-volt and 24-volt direct current (DC) electrical systems, and consumes 30 watts.
There’s a momentary push button for the horn signal, and the speaker/mike lets the helmsman hail and listen to responses, the so-called “talk-back” function, from crewmen on deck, nearby boats or dock crews. And the horn features a polyamide horn and driver, finished in Matterhorn White, with stainless steel bracket and fasteners—all designed to withstand the rigors of the marine environment.
An unexpected and sometimes guilty pleasure—if used without regard for the ears of nearby boat owners—is the feature that lets you select from a long list of horn sounds available on the Kahlenberg Mobile App. It might be less than sporting to let rip the sound of an aircraft carrier’s signal horn when entering a quiet anchorage, for example.
One of the best new accessories Kahlenberg has introduced recently is the M-512 Signal Controller and Fog Signal Timer. According to Kahlenberg, it “significantly improves safety by producing automatic sound and light signals for navigation as required by the USCG, IMO and SOLAS” regulations, as they pertain to various ships and yachts.
The M-512 is illuminated and dimmable, and can be linked to your sound or light signal system, or any additional external push buttons, in multiple locations. Its capabilities include automatic or at-will control for up to two horns and/or Morse lights.
One touch simplicity is part of its user interface. Dedicated buttons for automatically producing maneuvering signals, including one for “altering to starboard,” two for “altering to port,” three for “moving astern,” and five for “danger,” are plainly displayed for ease of selection and use. There is also a control for automated fog signals used for restricted visibility (fog), that will sound the appropriate horn signals at your choice of every 40, 60, 90, and 120 seconds. Should you wish to override the convenience of having the switch make these signals for you, there is an “At Will” button on the upper row to let you signal manually. Similarly, there is an automatic and manual control for Morse lights, per IMO regulations.
“The KB-15 is available in a few different versions,” said Erick Kahlenberg, one of the two grandsons of the founder, still very much involved in the company, “but I imagine for your readers the KB-15W BLUETOOTH, (white version with Bluetooth capability) is most interesting. Retail for that version is $870.00. The M-512 Control is $901 list, but we also have a smaller timer probably more suited for the KB-15 which is M-485A, $235.00 retail.”
It very well may be that you want the traditional Kahlenberg horns to grace your yacht, and multiple varieties for ships and yachts of every size are available at kahlenberg.com. Whichever you decide is right for your yacht, expect the best. That’s what the company continues to deliver, which is requisite from a marine industry icon.
— By John Wooldridge, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016
Carrying hundreds of gallons of freshwater aboard your boat on long cruises is a weighty concern, yet having plenty of clean, freshwater in remote locales is crucial, while filling up with the local water at a foreign port can be a cringe-worthy act.
Here’s where onboard watermakers turn the ocean into your reservoir, and raw seawater into drinkable freshwater. Processes have improved, equipment has become smaller and prices have dropped since coming onto the marine market in the late 1980s. Whether or not you need a watermaker depends on your boating activities. If you rarely stray from ports where freshwater is available, then the need for a watermaker is small. But if you are out for days at a time or cruising to foreign ports, then a watermaker is a necessity. At 8.35 pounds per gallon, water is heavy, and most long-range cruisers save fuel by starting with minimal water in the holding tanks. After the long cruise, the generator is turned on and the watermaker starts working, making freshwater.
Watermakers use a series of pumps, filters and membranes to turn raw seawater into freshwater. The process, reverse osmosis, is the same process used on a large scale at desalination plants. At the heart of the process is the membrane, a filter with pores the size of a red blood cell. After the larger particles in seawater are filtered out, the high-pressure pump forces water through the membrane removing almost all of the dissolved solids. This method rejects up to 99 percent of salts, contaminates and pollutants from seawater.
Heat and standing seawater is the ideal environment for biological growth—the bugaboo for watermakers—that can affect water quality. In the past keeping biologicals from growing involved flushing the system with acidic chemicals. Today freshwater flushing keeps the membranes clean and greatly reduces maintenance.
Most boats 40′ and longer will use watermakers run with AC-powered pumps, however DC-powered watermakers are used on smaller power boats and sailboats. AC-powered systems deliver a more constant flow rate and higher pressure over a longer period of time, while DC systems are for boats with less demand and smaller tanks.
Here’s a look at watermakers built for cruising boats 40′ to 80′ LOA from five U.S. manufacturers. (Watermakers cost $12,000 per unit or more depending on features.)
Watermakers, Inc.
The WMS-1000 offers commercial duty endurance and user-friendly design in a modular package meant for rugged reliability and ease of maintenance. Producing 1,080 GPD, the WMS-1000 provides ample water for most cruisers. Salinity monitors and an automatic product diverter ensure only drinking-quality water is produced, and a large LED display gives an exact parts per million readout taking the guesswork out of the water quality being produced. The WMS-1000 is available as an automatic, remote panel-operated system, or as a manually operated system. The WMS-1000 uses no proprietary parts, allowing the owner to find replacement filters, oil and parts virtually anywhere in the world. watermakers.com
Dometic Sea Xchange
Dometic XTC-ZTC-system double pass system.
The Sea Xchange XTC offers fully automatic pressure regulation and is controlled by a 7” touchscreen that meets the NEMA 4X rating to ensure resistance to corrosion and water. Available in outputs from 600 to 2,200 GPD, the XTC features true one-touch operation. The programmable logic control (PLC) software monitors and regulates all system functions without operator intervention. The XTC Series also provides remote access via smartphone, tablet or computer using Dometic’s embedded Smart Touch Integrated Intelligence Control (STIIC) software. This allows for monitoring the system and troubleshooting problems via a free app. The XTC Series uses a 316 stainless-steel high-pressure pump and boost pump motor shaft. Additional features include automatic freshwater flush and seawater membranes. spotzerowater.com
Blue Water Desalination
Blue Water Desalination Legend (compact). Photo: Blue Water Desalination
Blue Water’s Legend series is designed for fully automatic operation for vessels 50’ to 90’ with capacities ranging from 480 to 1,872 GPD (gallons per day). Featuring a 7” color touchscreen it provides an intuitive interface and NMEA 2000 compatibility. The main screen allows for one-touch start and stop functions, while the proprietary software continuously monitors and adjusts the system to maximize water production and quality. The Legend series units use a compact frame or modular configuration and come complete with a freshwater flush system, stainless-steel-shafted booster pump, product water carbon filter, and an installation kit. bluewaterdesalination.com
FCI Watermakers
FCI Aquamise
The Aquamiser+ Series offers programmable settings and remote display capability through an advanced control system. With outputs of 250 to 1,800 GPD, this series provides the safety and controls needed to operate both dependably and efficiently. The Aquamiser+ is available in framed and modular configurations to be utilized in tight spaces and bulkheads. However, despite its small size, the expansive controls include a fully automatic freshwater-flush system for unattended maintenance. Scheduled flushes, once a week or more frequently, can help maintain and keep the watermaker ready for the next voyage. A remote display offers system control up to 150 feet away, as well as the monitoring of water quality and adjusting tank-level controls. fciwatermakers.com
Sea Recovery
Sea Recovery Aquamatic unit
The Aquamatic series has a proven track record of more than 15 years of operation on boats worldwide and reliability is its hallmark. The Aquamatic’s automation includes its pressure regulation allowing simplistic one-touch operation from the optional remote controller. The system is smart enough to create the right amount of water needed and turn itself off when it meets the water requirement for the day. Maintenance is also automatic which provides longer lifespan of the watermaker that allows for more time for leisure activities. The Aquamatic is configured in various sizes ranging from 450 to 1,800 GPD in a compact frame or modular design. searecovery.com/marine
— By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine May 2016
Let’s get a few basic facts down before we open up the fuel fill and dump some mystic conditioning brew into our tanks. Oil, the result of the detritus of once-living organisms, spent millions of years “cooking” under intense pressure beneath both land and sea. Fast-forward a few thousand millennia to when the first oil well finally popped the cork.
It’s a dirty business getting the raw product refined and to market its many forms to run the world as we know it. During the refining process at those expansive plants with their cloud-spewing towers—seemingly miles of above-ground pipes, and fields of storage tanks—the crude oil is processed into the lifeblood of just about everything we use in our everyday lives. And, among all the other products that come out of the spigot, there is the stuff that we are most concerned with here: gasoline and diesel fuel.
The “problem,” and the reason you might want to use a fuel additive or conditioner, begins with the refining process. “Because the refiners are trying to get as much out of a barrel of crude as they can, today’s aggressive process of splitting open the molecules, using catalysts and high temperatures is far different from the distilling methods of years ago, and can create more instability in the afterproducts,” says Barry Sprague, chemist and consultant.
Today’s aggressive refining process might be just the reason you need to use fuel conditioners, additives or stabilizers.
But wait, there’s more! Moving downstream from the refining process is a host of ills waiting to be visited upon our precious gasoline and diesel. For example, the government-mandated fuel for those of you who use gasoline in your engines contains oxygenated additives, offshoots of methyl and ethyl alcohol. Add some heat and moisture to the sometimes lengthy storage time the gasoline sits around—from refinery tanks to tanker trucks to your marina tanks—and you are likely to not only get less efficient fuel but a bit on the dirty side as well. “With those who run gasoline engines, you might want to consider a treatment with every oil change,” advises Sprague. “You really want to help control that moisture as the alcohol can separate out with only the minimal amount of water.”
The problem for diesel fuel oil with the same issues associated with gasoline storage is the combination of low sulfur levels with the product’s affinity for water, sludge and bio-growth (bacteria and fungi). “What we want to do here is even out the playing field for performance, how the fuel is handled once it gets to the end user in regards to its stability, and try to control any contaminants,” Sprague adds.
So here’s where our additives, stabilizers, treatments, and conditioners come into play. The first thing you want to do is keep a careful watch on your primary and secondary fuel filters. Drain your Racors or similar systems should any sign of water be present. If you have to change the elements a bit more often, or if you begin to notice a drop in rpm levels, you more than likely have a fair amount of gunk in your tanks that gets roiled up as you use your boat and clogs the free flow of fuel to the engine(s). “With severe problems in this area, such as obvious plugging, it’s best to take some time out and have those fuel tanks professionally cleaned,” Sprague suggests.
For diesel users, the filter problem can be a direct result of using a biocide additive. As the juice begins to do its work and kill the “bugs” at the water/oil interface, which is where the organisms live, the accumulated buildup of dead bodies adds to the already sludgy bottom layer of the fuel tank resulting in a Stephen King-like, non-combustible mass that gets sucked up into the fuel system. “If you think you might have something growing, you should use a biocide treatment,” said Sprague, “but be aware of the consequences.”
Fuel stabilizers do their work by scavenging and removing oxygen that gets into the fuel by several means, including the motion and agitation as the boat moves through the water. “Even trace amounts of oxygen present in the fuel can cause problems,” warns Sprague. To simplify the chemistry, the additive can help repair the hydrocarbon chain that was “damaged” at the refinery and/or chemically remove most of the trace oxygen making it more stable and more efficient. It also works to emulsify or blend any water droplets present in the fuel oil thus helping to impede the growth of bacteria. Other positive results include the breakdown of particulate matter that can be safely filtered out, and the shattering of larger contaminants that can be burned off during combustion.
Before using any fuel additive make sure to check with your engine manufacturer as adding any of these products to your tanks can void the warranty. In addition, many OEMs recommend a specific product line for use with their power plants and fuel systems. And as with any product such as additives, always follow the directions on the container. Should you have any questions, contact the manufacturer.
With today’s highly advanced engines—and because of the aggressive refinery processes that result in a more unstable end product—using a fuel treatment can help you get the best possible grade of gasoline or diesel fuel into your system and have you run more efficiently.
— By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating Magazine March 2016
Facebook, Instagram and Twitter are popular because many people are joining and using these social networks, and that’s exactly why AIS (Automatic Identification System) is becoming more relevant for recreational boaters. Once you join the “network,” your chartplotter or radar screen comes alive with information about the other AIS-enabled vessels around you.
Some information is fun, like knowing boats nearby are named Jumpin’ Jack Splash or Patriot Misshull. But the more important information, such as knowing other boats’ proximity to your vessel and their compass headings, is also displayed.
When AIS first came out in 2002, it was mandated for ships more than 300 gross tons to use a Class A type AIS transceiver for international travel. Then in 2006, the AIS standards committee published the Class B type AIS transceiver specifications, designed to enable a simpler and lower-cost AIS device.
Electronics companies such as Raymarine followed by offering less-expensive Class B transceivers, and in the past nine years AIS has become better and more popular. Its main benefits include transmitting your position to other boat operators, alerting you to unauthorized boat movement and allowing port management to contact and control boats easier. This year, boat owners will be able to enjoy a series of improvements in AIS that make it easier to use and more powerful.
“AIS is really starting to trickle down to the recreational market,” said Jim McGowan, Raymarine’s maritime marketing manager. “The cost of the hardware has come down significantly, it’s gotten very small and it can be built into VHF radios.”
Having AIS integrated into your VHF radio, allows you to make a call to other vessels using the MMSI (Maritime Mobile Service Identifier), which is essentially a phone number for your boat. Nowadays VHF radios are equipped with Digital Selective Calling (DSC), and the core of DSC is having the MMSI programmed into your boat.
Signing up for an MMSI number is free and BoatU.S. offers easy registration through its website. Like the decision to join Facebook or Instagram, it’s not required for recreational boat owners to have an MMSI number or to use AIS, but there is a host of safety features available by joining in.
“Almost all VHF radios have a digital distress button built in,” McGowan said “But you have to have an MMSI number for your boat that identifies your vessel with the latitude and longitude from your GPS. That way you can be picked up by other boats when you press that digital distress button and signal that you need help.”
Boat owners who currently don’t have AIS on their boats can add it to their data network, connecting through the NMEA protocol that allows electronics from different manufactures to work together.
“Raymarine’s AIS650 is our Class B AIS receiver,” McGowan said. “It is popular with recreational boat owners, and transmits your ID and position to other boats and receives their AIS broadcasts as well, and it can be added to any boat with an NMEA 2000 network. It costs about $1,000.”
Some of the more advanced AIS improvements are only available if you stay within the same family of electronics, such as pairing a Raymarine AIS receiver with a Raymarine multifunction display.
“Our latest systems use AIS technology for collision avoidance,” McGowan said. “It really improves your situational awareness to see what targets are coming at you at longer ranges, whether it’s a small boat, yacht or big tanker. You get clued into what their speed is and what course they are on well before there is a problem. Symbols in red are considered dangerous and inside your comfort zone, while those in blue are considered a non-dangerous target. ”
In addition, Raymarine has been doing a lot of work with AIS symbology and improving the boat display information on the MFD screen. For example, the traditional first AIS symbols used just one icon for every type of vessel, such as a triangle or little box. Now, there are different icons for yachts, sailboats, high-performance boats, and even AIS-equipped helicopters.
“AIS will only get better as more and more boat owners participate,” McGowan said. “The next big thing on the advanced commercial ship systems is having the symbology fully scaled to the actual size of the vessel. The really big ships have very large screens, so on the chart you can see how big the nearby ships are relative to your size. If recreational boat MFD screens keep getting bigger then that feature may be available.”
Another AIS capability that hasn’t been fully used is text messaging between vessels using DSC. It’s conceivable to send a boat-to-boat text such as “C U soon at the dock.” One has to wonder if those “emoji” icons are not far behind.
Recently I had both inboard diesel engines of the boat I was delivering dialed in at 2200 rpm and moving along at a comfortable speed. My feet were up, my back was settled into the pedestal chair, and I was enjoying the ride as I made my way to the marina at a slow bell when the starboard engine alarm went off. The rpms on the state-of-the-art, electronically controlled engine quickly went from 2200 to 1500 and then to complete shut down. Bringing both throttles back to neutral, I noted a spike on the digital temp gauge and instantly wondered what could have gone wrong from intake to exhaust and everything in between.
I checked the expansion tank’s coolant cap, water pump, the various hoses, clamps, and exhaust riser before taking a look at the raw water sea strainer. After unscrewing the lid, I detected bits and pieces of thin plastic.
I got away lucky on this one. The source of the problem was a small plastic bag. I shut off the thru-hull intake, removed the hose, checked the impeller, and cleared the residue. Problem solved—a much better outcome than a catastrophic engine failure. To keep your system running cool, let’s first look at the operation of an outboard engine.
“The cooling system is quite simple,” said Mike Nimmer, Mercury Marine’s product service manager. “Powered by an impeller in a water pump, raw water—whether it is salt, brackish, or fresh—comes in through the lower unit, is forced around the powerhead and then leaves the engine via the exhaust. No water coming out of the tell tale is a sure sign something is wrong.”
Much like my experience, the protocol on an outboard is first, when noticeable change in operating temperature comes into play, to shut down the engine. (With multiple engine configurations, when possible, get back to the dock before checking things out.) Lift the lower unit out of the water and check the intake port. If it is clogged or shows signs of debris, clear it. Lowering the engine back down and a quick start will confirm if that was the problem. “If not,” says Nimmer, “it’s time to have a look at the water pump and impeller.”
Be familiar with your engine manual and know the correct procedure for doing this kind of maintenance. “If you pull that impeller out, you’re most likely going to need to put in a new one so always carry the right spares,” Nimmer said. While impellers are quite robust, if you operate your engine(s) in areas of shallow water, this can often result in sand or other debris entering the system, so check yours on a regular basis. “If you store your engine over a season, put in a new one before you launch again,” suggests Nimmer. This is also a good time to check the seal on the water pump.
A problem with the engine’s thermostat and relief or bypass valve can also cause overheating. Pre-set to a factory determined setting, this device regulates water temperature to cool the engine, while keeping the proper pressure in the system for proper transfer of generated heat.
If any debris or corrosion is present, the thermostate should be swapped out. Your engine owner’s manual will detail this simple operation. “Never run your engine without its thermostat,” warns Nimmer. “It’s designed to protect and without it, severe damage can occur.” And regardless of what kind of water you boat in, Nimmer recommends you freshwater flush your engine after each use.
Inboard diesel or gasoline boats both have closed, expansion tank systems and raw water cooling with important maintenance items to be observed.
Know the proper operating temperatures of your coolant levels and manifold at various rpms. A difference of a few degrees can indicate trouble. Check with your owner’s manual for this information as well as your own daily maintenance log. (If you don’t keep one, now is a good time to start.)
Knowing the flow amount of your exhaust water is also key to confirm problems with your cooling system—as a boat operator, you should know this by sight. Should you see any restricted flow, shut the engine down and starting at the thru-hull, work your way through the system. A ruined impeller—a major cause in many cooling system problems—can send rubber pieces into the heat exchanger. If you run gasoline engines, you most likely have cast iron risers. As these are quite prone to corrosion in salt water, make checking them part of a seasonal inspection.
Besides the usual suspects such as the water pump, seal, belt, and impeller, follow the hoses, look at the clamps, and make sure the expansion tank cap is on properly. If this hasn’t been done in a while, take the fittings off the heat exchanger and check for clogs and marine growth. If any are present, clear things out with a thin wire brush. It is also a good idea to use an engine flushing product such as Barnacle Buster at least once a season. And use the correct antifreeze as per your engine manufacturer’s recommendations.
With cooling problems the heat generated can ultimately ruin an engine. Carry spare impellers, pre-cut hoses, clamps, the correct antifreeze, and the proper gaskets, grease, and tools aboard before setting out. I also like to have a full roll of self-fusing silicone tape in my toolbox—it can provide a great quick fix for a leaking hose until you get back to the dock. And don’t forget that all-important owner’s manual.
If you suspect something is wrong it’s time to shut it down. And if you’re not up to the task, get your marina manager on the phone or seek out a reputable mechanic to get the job done
By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating Magazine December 2015
Cutting edge radar, sonar, apps and more… The 2015 National Marine Electronics Association Conference held in Baltimore, Maryland, celebrated the industry’s pioneering products. Here’s a snapshot of this year’s most notable marine technological innovations.
Simrad’s Halo radar sees almost everything.
Simrad’s new Halo radar clearly demonstrates the rapid migration of advanced technology into our world of marine electronics. Its combination of pulse compression, beam-sharping technology, a rare earth gallium nitride microwave amplifier, and sophisticated FPGA (Field Programmable Gate Array) has created a radar that easily sees a seagull floating in the water 60 feet away from your boat and can separate two distant abutting boats all while using a miserly 25 watts of power. This open array system (3′, 4′, 6′) is capable of true dual range displays and is packaged in a sleek pedestal design that has unique side-mounted blue LED accent lighting controllable from the MFD. A wide variety of easy-to-use operational modes from Bird Finder to Weather make it one of the easiest radars to use and among the most technically advanced recreational boating radar available. The Halo radar received the annual NMEA Technology Award at the conference. simrad-yachting.com
Raymarine Dragonfly 4DV CHIRP down view fish finder
In just a handful of years CHIRP sounders have evolved from expensive technology once only available to oceanographic institutions to fish finders for under $200 that produce nearly photographic images of the bottom surface. The Raymarine 4DV is a perfect example. Use their free Wi-Fish app (iOS 7+ and Android) to record, pause, rewind, and share your sonar images through its Wi-Fi. The 4DV—with transducer good for depths up to 600’—sports large, sealed membrane switches with intuitive menus and has IPX6 and IPX7 waterproof ratings. An included ball mounting system compatible with aftermarket solutions like Ram Mounts makes it easy to mount nearly anywhere from a kayak (with the optional 12V battery pack) to a center console. raymarine.com
Garmin Panoptix Down sonar
Until the Panoptix system appeared, recreational boat sonar was always a historical product showing what happened in the past—behind your boat. With the Panoptix’s multibeam transducer, fishermen can use three views. See fish swimming around under the boat in real time and at what depth with LiveVü Down. Watch your lure drop and see the fish strike it in real time. The extremely wide-angle 120-degree beam makes it quick and easy to tell if fish are present. Change to RealVü 3D and the system shows you a 3D map of the bottom structure and fish targets. The RealVü 3D Historical shows a rolling graphical model of the bottom structure and fish targets as you move. Record, play back and capture screenshots of both RealVü displays. Panoptix transducers are designed to work with most boats and have all the electronics built into them. They are connected to compatible MFDs with a Garmin network cable and no sounder module is required. garmin.com
The Signal K project taking NMEA to the cloud.
Two presentations by the Signal K project were the most attended at the conference. Signal K is a unique, open source software project whose purpose is to make a boat’s NMEA data easily accessible to app developers. Your boat’s N2K/0183 network data is sent to a NMEA certified gateway, which parses the data into the Signal K format in a human readable format. For example, the “DepthBelowTransducer” data is sent to a computer running the free Signal K software for storage that connects to a Wi-Fi router. This allows your boat to securely connect to apps, other boats, the internet, do sharing, logging, and crowd sourcing of data, use social applications like the new ActiveCaptain “Locations” app that supports Signal K, and more. The first Signal K gateway product, the Digital Yacht “iKommunicate,” was announced at the conference—many more hardware products and apps are in development. Hardware, apps and Signal K software will be available very early in 2016.signalk.org
Flir’s AX8 monitors your engine’s temperatures.
Flir introduced this small AX8 thermal and visual camera as an industrial grade, temperature monitoring camera. Raymarine now supports it in their new Lighthouse 15 software release for engine room use. Despite its small size it has lots of capabilities. Up to six locations in the camera’s view can be selected, defined and monitored for temperatures that range from 14 to 302 degrees Fahrenheit. For example, one spot could provide the temperature of an exhaust elbow, and another the transmission or battery bank. Alarm levels can be configured for any of the selected locations, and up to eight cameras can be connected via Ethernet cables. Find potential engine problems before they become big ones. flir.com
Icom 506 AIS VHF does it all.
It’s hard to believe there is some ability that the M506 AIS radio doesn’t already have. It’s NMEA 2000 ready saving the installation time and effort required to do the venerable and much slower NMEA 0183 interfacing. It receives AIS information with the same antenna, has active noise canceling technology, last call playback, foghorn modes, two-way hailing, supports remote command mics, and has an external speaker connection. You can even add a class B AIS transponder to the system. The extensive functions are menu driven with the aid of four soft keys and a five-button function array. Easily read a wide array of data with backlighting. I don’t know what more you could add to this comprehensive unit with a very competitive price and IPX8 waterproofing rating. icomamerica.com
Lumishore’s EOS lights the way.
Lumishore provides the underwater wow factor with its new EOS series of underwater lighting that uses a mix of two-way DMX512 (Digital Multiplexing) and RDM (Remote Device Management) technologies originally developed for professional stage lighting. Add to this plug-and-play system sound to light capabilities, and Wi-Fi interfaces for your mobile devices. This color-changing system uses long-life Phillips high-intensity LEDs with a variety of modes that control strobe effects to attract fish and bait, brightness, sound synchronization with the lighting, lots of preset functions, programmable light scenes, and more. The low profile controller with its color display is easy to use and comes with a sun cover. Set the lighting mood for a cockpit dinner or have a rocking party. lumishore.com
By Bill Bishop, Southern Boating Magazine December 2015
Your hydraulic steering system is relatively simple to understand
The ability to make use of pressurized fluid in order to produce power dates all the way back to ancient times. Egyptians, Babylonians, Greeks, and Romans all used the concept to construct major irrigation canals and viaducts along with other hydraulic equipment such as pistons and screw pumps, a time-tested application that all boaters have to deal with. Whether you have inboard, outboard or stern drive power, and while a particular system may be dependent on vessel speed, size of the rudder(s), hull design, props, number of helm stations, and horsepower, it all operates on the same principle. Here’s a look at a basic system, its components and how they work together.
TwinDisc Hydraulic System
The wheel that you so often have your hands on is where it all starts, and at its most simple configuration there are three main parts to a hydraulic steering system. Going downstream, there is a pump containing an integral reservoir for the hydraulic oil. Lines from the pump pass on the inputs—turn to starboard, turn to port—to a ram that connects to a rudder or rudders on inboard powered boats, or to an outboard engine or multiple engines as equipped on a particular vessel.
Direct the wheel in either direction and hydraulic oil is forced through the lines to the ram to either extend or retract the cylinder. A check valve, usually set to a certain range of psi as per the manufacturer’s operating standards for that particular system—typically a pressurized three-line one—prevents the oil from returning in the same direction and instead, is forced back the other way through another line to the pump attached to the wheel at the helm. The process is repeated as you turn port to starboard and back again.
Of course, the bigger the boat, the bigger and sometimes a bit more complex the system will have to be. For example, when adding autopilot, power assist or full power steering, an engine-driven or electrically operated pump is put in the mix to boost the hydraulic pressure in the lines. These more advanced systems may also have separate oil reservoirs and valves as separate components.
The tendency to overlook this particular system is common as it is mostly a reliable operation. But because of its important role to get us from here to there and back, let’s look at some of the maintenance points to include in your checklist.
If you’re a seasonal boater, give the system a good look over at least twice—once when you splash it and again when it’s time to put the boat up for winter. That’s not to say weekly inspections are unreasonable. If you are a year-round boater, check things out every four months or so to be on the safe side. One old salt once said to me, “Kid, you can’t get out and change a flat tire out there.”
If your system’s manufacturer manual is not safely tucked away along with all your other ones in a watertight storage container, get one either by contacting the company or downloading it from the website. The first thing I check is the level in the oil reservoir. It should be almost up to the top. If
you find you need to add some, follow the recommendations as noted.
Next, give the wheel several turns going lock-to-lock, and note the “feel” as you do so. It should be smooth. If not, if it lags or puts up a fight, you may have air in the system that will need to be bled out. Contact your manufacturer on the correct procedure before you do it yourself.
You also should check the oil to make sure it is still clean. Hydraulic steering fluid is usually clear and has a light color to it. If it is dark or black in color, it’s time to swap it with the correct hydraulic oil as specified by the manufacturer. Have your system’s dealer or your marina service center do the job as they have the tools and materials to get the old oil out and put new, fresh oil in. When you’re away from the dock, always have enough on board to get you home.
Turning the wheel back and forth puts the system under pressure allowing you to easily see if there are any oil leaks. This process requires two people: one to work the wheel and the other to note all those places where leaks can occur. Leaks could occur anywhere there is a connection, hose, fastener, or fitting, whether at the pump or where the lines connect to the ram. They are easy to spot and can be readily seen by wiping the connection point with a clean paper towel. A visual inspection of the ram is also important. Make sure nothing is obstructing the movement or that there isn’t anything around that might jam or damage it in any way. On outboards, always check for corrosion. It’s a good idea to grease the shaft once a year as well.
SeaStar ob steering cylinder. Photo: Fredwarner1.net
Your hydraulic steering system is relatively simple to understand and easy to maintain. With a little well-spent time to make sure everything is working as it should, your time on the water will be that much safer and give you that peace of mind you seek when going out on the water
By Ken Kreisler, Southern Boating Magazine November, 2015
Power up! Last month we featured 38 of the must-see new boats making their debut in Fort Lauderdale. In this installment, we present some of the New Equipment from FLIBS we saw at the show.
Bennett Marine BOLT Control
Long a mainstay in the industry, Bennett Marine has been in the forefront of trim tab design and operation since 1959. Now the company offers its new BOLT electric system designed for fast and easy installation. BOLT is designed with a tough, watertight black nylon actuator and complete protection for wires and seals. Each set contains a pair of 12-volt actuators, the tabs and mounting plates, and two 20-foot or custom length harnesses with waterproof connectors. There are six sizes, starting with 12″ x 9″ going up to 24″ x 12″ and are recommended for flats boats, center consoles and RIBs among a long list of others. Three control options are available with rocker switches, rocker control with diagnostics module and auto tab retraction, and a rocker control with all that plus a lighted indicator. bennetttrimtabs.com
Low-Profile MCGXLP60 Titanium Chiller
Dometic Marine offers its mobile-enabled STIIC—for Smart Touch Integrated Intelligence Control—that allows you to connect to six onboard Dometic systems, including reverse osmosis systems, water purification, Eskimo ice machines, premium chillers, refrigeration, and climate control equipment. STIIC allows you to monitor, check system status, change settings, turn on/off, or diagnose a problem even from a remote location using a phone, tablet or computer. Next up is the XTC-ZTC Double Pass Watermaker. This fully automatic, integrated double pass system—to further cleanse the water—can purify onboard water as well as sea, brackish, lake, river, and dockside water. The company’s Titan Chiller, with its new titanium tube condenser, resists corrosion from barnacles and other fouling organisms while being able to withstand the harshness of chemical cleaning. dometic.com/marine
FCI DTS+ SOLO 3000 Dockside Treatment System
FCI’s latest offering is its DTS+ SOLO, for Dockside Treatment System, an innovative product from this worldwide designer and manufacturer of reverse osmosis systems. The DTS+ SOLO is a stand-alone dockside water-purifying unit that allows you to enjoy fresh, purified water for drinking, cooking and bathing dockside, but it also includes a GAC and sediment filter, a feature that can optimize membrane life. According to the company, the DTS+ SOLO eliminates viruses, bacteria and provides bottled quality water. A compact, modular system, it is designed to fit into tight spaces. FCI’s DTS+ SOLO requires no equipment on the dock and comes complete with all pumps and motors. Its low power consumption is complemented by a quiet and vibration-free operation, and it is bulkhead or deck-mountable. fciwatermakers.com
Honda BF 100-Hp Outboard
Honda has been in the forefront of four-stroke engine technology in the U.S. for some 50 years. To boost its mid-range offerings the company now presents its latest, the BF 100-hp outboard. As with all Honda power, the engine contains the entire range of design and technology DNA the manufacturer has become known for in the automobile industry. The result is a high performance, fuel-efficient, environmentally friendly, four-cylinder, 1496 cc engine.It has a full-throttle rpm range between 5500-6300 and tips the scales at 366 pounds. Innovative and advanced design elements include VTEC™ for power, torque and efficiency at any speed; BLAST® for improving hole shot and acceleration; lean burn control for automatic adjustment of the air/fuel mix as per speed and load; programmed electronic fuel injection for precise delivery of fuel/air to each cylinder; and a new high performance gear case.The Honda BF100 has NMEA 2000® certification, is covered by a five year, non-declining, limited factory warranty and is CARB 3-star certified in all 50 states. marine.honda.com
Kohler 200 Kw Big Powerhouse Generator
Kohler has added some new units to its expanding Tier III compliant lineup. First up is the 200EFOZDJ 200-kW system, a big powerhouse generator, designed for superyachts or commercial applications. Also being introduced are the 20EKOZD, 20-kW and 23EKOZD, 23-kW single-and triple-phase generators. All feature Kohler diesel engines as well as the company’s Decision-Maker® 3500 controller (DEC 3500).With the DEC 3500, two or more Kohler generators can easily be paralleled with a single communication wire. For example, with instant and automatic transfer and paralleling, should the first generator’s load be light, the second unit automatically drops off. Conversely, when there is a heavy load on, the second genset will take up the power slack. The controller’s space-saving design eliminates the need for oversized switchgear. Other benefits of the DEC 3500 include built-in load management software, remote monitoring, fully potted circuit boards and sealed connectors, and fewer failure points for an enhanced level of reliability. kohlerpower.com
Man High-Speed-Four Stroke V12-1900 Powerhouse
The big news from MAN is its high-speed, four stroke V12-1900 powerhouse that extends the range of its engines for yachts to 1,397 kW (1,900-hp). The company has completely redesigned the injection, power train, and cooling systems. With its compact size—approximately 7′ l” x 3′ 8″ x 4′ 2″ and weighing in at about 5,200 pounds—both new builds and repower jobs in larger boats and yachts can be accommodated. As with all MAN engines, the V12-1900 is EPA Tier 3 compliant. And if you want to dress up your engine room, optional gilded or chrome-plated cylinder head covers as well as a design cover are available. engines.man.eu
Mercury Marine 6.2L-V8-ECT
Besides Mercury Marine’s introduction of the Verado® 350-horsepower outboard, Mercury Racing Verado 400R outboard, Mercury Racing QC4v 1550 sterndrive, and Mercury 4.5-liter 200-hp/250-hp sterndrives at the 2015 Miami show, the company introduces several new additions in Fort Lauderdale as well.
The Flo-Torq SSR HD is a propeller hub system designed to improve shift noise and vibration on high horsepower
Mercury Marine Flo-Torq SSR HD Propeller Hub
outboards that use a heavy-duty 1.25-inch propeller shaft. According to Mercury, the result is a 25 percent improvement in shift noise and vibration. The company’s GPS-based controlled
Active Trim System (ATS) automatically delivers instant, effortless trimming of boat engines. Tests on a broad range of boats indicate improved engine performance and decreased fuel costs. ATS has five selectable trim profiles, regular manual trim, and is compatible with analog or digital gauges as well as any new Mercury Outboard or MerCruiser engine with SmartCraft. Mercury MerCruiser’s new 6.2-liter V8 300-hp and 350-hp sterndrive engines feature Adaptive Speed Control, Axius Joystick control (optional) and freshwater cooling, anti-corrosion protection, freshwater flush system, easy access maintenance points, and a QR code on the engine’s service label for smartphone users to access “how to” videos online. mercurymarine.com
Phasor 2016 Compact Series Model K3-15.0 Kw
Phasor Marine introduces its new 2016 Compact Series Model K3-15.0 kW marine genset. Phasor Marine employs a fuel-efficient Kubota diesel engine—renowned for its quality and dependability. The freshwater, heat-exchanger cooled marine generator features a cost-saving, low 1800 rpm operating speed for less noise, vibration and wear. Weighing in at 646 pounds (34’5″L x 21’W x 26’H) the K3-15.0 kW will be available with Phasor’s optional powder coated aluminum, sound attenuated enclosure. Standard features include single circuit control system with no printed circuit boards, cast stainless steel exhaust elbow and molded blue silicone water hoses with stainless steel AWAB hose clamps among others. Options range from DC gauge panel with start/stop/preheat/20-foot plug-in wiring harness to 24 volt DC starting system and 50 cycle output and many more. phasormarine.com
Seakeeper Battery-Powered 3DC
Seakeeper, whose long list of gyro stabilization units has made this particular piece of equipment the option boat owners must have, offers its battery-powered 3DC. Designed for boats from 30 to 40 feet in length, the 3DC works without a generator making it an especially perfect fit for the rise in popularity of the center console design. Indeed, to show off its abilities, Seakeeper had one installed in a Contender 35ST, the same boat that will be docked at the nearby Bahia Cabana and available to the public.
The unit is mounted at deck level and positioned underneath the leaning post. During sea trials on a rather nasty day according to Seakeeper, the result was a 94 percent reduction in roll.seakeeper.com
Sea Recovery Aqua Whisper Pro Compact
Along with Sea Recovery’s many other watermakers, including the AW Mini for smaller boats, they will be displaying the new Aqua Whisper Pro unit. Designed for offshore cruising and fishing as well as the charter sector, its manual and touch pad control system allows for easy operations with water production rates from 450 to 1,800 gallons per day, and the AW Pro is upgradable to high-capacity operations.
Features include a one-pressure adjustment to accommodate varying water feed conditions, LCD touch screen, failsafe water diversion valve, shielded terminals and covered high voltage components, and replaceable pre and post filters fit right on the frame. Units are shipped complete and ready to go right from the factory with an entire installation kit and comprehensive operations and maintenance manual. A remote control touch pad is available as are a commercial prefilter, oil water separator, pH neutralizer, and automatic fresh water flush. searecovery.com
Sea Star TFX Optimus360 Joystick
SeaStar Solutions has upped its Optimus Electronic Power Steering System (EPS) to include inboard powerboats from 40 to 70 feet in length. Taking its operational parameters from the company’s proven applications with single, twin, triple, and quad engines, the inboard EPS system offers the inboard boat owner programmable options covering lock-to-lock ratios, steering response and wheel resistance. For example, when moving slowly and more rudder is required, Optimus EPS can be programmed to lower the number of lock-to-lock helm turns to four or five. This reduces the number of times the captain has to turn the wheel to get the rudders positioned properly. Helm resistance can also be lessened so the wheel requires less effort to move. These and other customizable settings make controlling the boat in tight spaces easier and more intuitive. When at cruising speeds, the lock-to-lock turns and steering resistance will automatically increase. Features include an exclusive design for use in salt water, Optimus CANTrak display, a pump control module, and a newly designed SmartCylinder. seastarsolutions.com
Torqeedo Deep Blue
In the electric outboard sector, the offerings from Starnberg, Germany-based Torqeedo cover the gamut from ultralight, lithium battery-powered 1-hp motors for kayaks to 1.5- to 3-hp and 5-hp to 8-hp for various other applications including tenders and sailboats, to its Deep Blue, high-voltage, high-performance lithium-powered models up to 40 and 80 horsepower. (All hp numbers are the electrical equivalent.)Getting a lot of attention are the Deep Blue i1400 and i1800 rpm inboard systems, also in 40- and 80-hp models. Deep Blue includes an onboard, touch screen computer with 14 application views including heading and range, ETA, and battery status, battery charger. Other features consist of an electronic remote throttle, emergency magnetic kill switch, connection box for all electrical and signal cables, and, of course, the high voltage electric motor.torqeedo.com
Volvo Penta 300 V8
On the gasoline sterndrive engine side, Volvo Penta will be showing its next generation of 5.3L V8 engines. Available in 300- and 350-hp, the series is based on GM’s GenV platform and was developed with input from a select group of boatbuilders. Technical features include direct fuel injection, lightweight all-aluminum block, standard closed cooling, variable valve timing, and wideband oxygen sensors—according to Volvo Penta to reduce CO emissions by 95 percent. A host of common parts and service points across the range reduce the number of parts dealers need to stock, thus simplifying service and maintenance.volvopenta.com
Webasto FCF Platinum
Webasto Thermo & Comfort North America is adding two new models to its FCF Classic and BlueCool systems. The FCF Platinum series comes in 12,000 and 16,000 BTU/h ratings in either 115 or 230v. These units feature an improved, slim design making them perfect for retrofitting older and larger systems as well as for boatbuilders. Rugged design, a durable marine-grade stainless steel frame, a larger proprietary condenser for better water flow and improved performance in high-stress conditions typify the outstanding engineering put into the Platinum series. FCF Platinum 12,000 and 16,000 BTU/h models come standard with a digital display and feature low-cost replacement parts. webasto.com
Whale Electric 12V Water Heater
Whale Marine has a rather innovative solution for the small boat owner who would like hot water available on board. The Whale 12V Water Heater is lightweight and compact making it ideal for this kind of use where space is an issue.
The Water Heater connects to a 12V power supply eliminating the need for a generator, inverter or shore power. Rapid heat-up time provides hot water in less than an hour and high-efficiency heat retention of up to 10 hours, so the 12V Water Heater is a quick and easy way to have hot water when you need it. whalepumps.com
Marine exhaust systems for inboard engines can be divided into two basic types—dry and wet exhausts. Dry exhaust systems have been around the longest but are now found primarily on commercial vessels or other specialty applications (high-performance craft, etc.). The basic job of a dry exhaust system is to carry hot exhaust gases overboard through a series of metal pipes. These pipes typically extend vertically from the engine and into a protective stack, where exhaust gases are then expelled above the decks and well away from the vessel.
Wet exhaust systems are more popular with recreational boats and are the focus of this article. They use water to cool the exhaust gases—and quiet engine noise—prior to discharging it overboard. Another benefit of this approach is the additional installation options it provides builders, as the cooled gases allow the system to now be routed horizontally to the exhaust outlet. Reduced temperatures also mean other materials (rubber, fiberglass, etc.) can be used in the system.
How they work
Water-cooled exhaust systems inject cooling water into the exhaust via an exhaust riser or mixing elbow, where the exhaust then pushes the water out of the exhaust outlet. Exhaust cooling water is typically provided by the engine’s raw water pump although a second pump may also be used (depending on the system).
Most installations will also include a muffler located between the riser and the discharge outlet. This not only reduces engine noise but also gives errant water entering the exhaust outlet a place to collect.
Corroded-exhaust-elbow with heat resistant insulation
Corroded-exhaust-elbow
A bad exhaust hose ready to rupture
Corroded mainfold to riser joint
Dry-exhaust-leak-under-lagging
Maintenance tips
A great familiarization (and maintenance) strategy is to conduct an inspection of your exhaust system now and at regular intervals in the future, ideally as part of your fall layup and spring commissioning routine. Ideally, all materials used in your exhaust system should be labeled as to their suitability. Hoses, for example, should be labeled “marine wet exhaust” and be able to withstand heat, water weight, pressure, oil, and acids. Anything other than short hose runs (i.e. four times the inside diameter of the hose) should feature wire-reinforced hose, while all hose connections should be made to a ridged component (pipe, muffler, exhaust outlet, etc.). Hose to hose connections (i.e. a larger hose fitted over a smaller hose and then clamped) are not acceptable.
Vessels with a transom exit exhaust should also have an exhaust valve, which is simply a rubber flapper that attaches to the outside of the exhaust creating a one-way check valve to help prevent water from entering the exhaust (and possibly the engine).
During your exhaust system inspection check hoses for leaks, kinks, chafe, bulging (at hose clamps), and other signs of deterioration. Verify each hose is double clamped where possible (see sidebar) and that hose clamps are tight and free from corrosion. Keep a lookout for leaks at other system components as well, paying special attention to engine manifold and exhaust elbow joints (prime places for both leaks and corrosion). Heat-resistant lagging (insulation) covering dry or “hot” sections of the exhaust should also be removed periodically to allow a full inspection of the components underneath. Check the exhaust system with the engine both off and on as some leaks will only occur with the engine running.
Finally, finding and correcting exhaust leaks are also extremely important from a safety standpoint as these can introduce carbon monoxide (CO) into the vessel’s interior with deadly results.
Helpful Tips
Double hose clamp installation
While double hose clamps are often recommended for many cooling system hoses (particularly on seacocks), they should only be installed where there is sufficient length of barb/nipple available and hose end overlap to allow it. Hose clamps should be installed no closer than 1/4″ to the end of the hose and must fully engage the barb to prevent damage to the hose from occurring.
Engine manifold and exhaust riser checks
Engine manifolds and exhaust risers should be periodically removed, pressure tested and inspected for internal corrosion and clogging, any of which can lead to catastrophic engine failure. This should be considered routine maintenance particularly with systems operating in salt water. How often depends on vessel location (fresh or salt water) and the amount of use. However, at a minimum they should be removed and inspected every four to five years and more frequently for older units.
By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine September, 2015
Maintaining your boat’s battery is crucial for performance and increased service life. Keeping it properly charged can be an issue, particularly for vessels that see limited or sporadic use. Installing a modern “smart” battery charger is a great way to monitor and promote good battery health. Here’s a look at the basics, from selection to installation.
Selecting a charger
Marine grade batteries aren’t cheap and can easily be destroyed by improper charging, meaning the last place you want to skimp is when selecting a charger. Go with a good quality marine grade unit, ideally one built to American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) standards. Look for smart chargers that provide numerous charging options and features such as the ability to select between the different types of battery technologies (i.e. wet cell, gel cell and absorbed glass mat).
As uncontrolled combustion is not our friend, battery chargers installed on a gasoline-powered vessel must also be labeled as being ignition protected. For PWCs and other open-type craft, you’ll want to go with a sealed, waterproof charger. Regardless of what you choose, stay away from those el cheapo automotive chargers down at the local Mart. They’re not designed for marine use and can cause a multitude of problems from stray current corrosion to shock hazards.
Always consult the manufacturer’s instruction when sizing your charger, but a general rule of thumb is to choose one with an output that’s at least 10 percent of your battery (or bank) capacity. For example, if you have a 300-amp-hour battery or bank, you’d want a 30-amp charger. If you can’t find an exact match based on the above, a charger with a little more output is better than one that’s too wimpy.
Choosing a location
Figuring out where to mount your charger can be an exercise in compromise, so make sure you follow all manufacturer instructions when selecting a spot. The best option is a cool, dry area with adequate ventilation. Higher up is generally better due to better ventilation and protection from the corrosive humidity of the bilge. You’ll also want to avoid high-temperature locations (such as your engine compartment) if possible, although this can be difficult on smaller boats with limited options.
Many of the storage areas that battery chargers wind up in have marginal ventilation at best. If that’s the case with your installation, help your charger breathe easier by not cocooning it with lifejackets, boat covers and other air-blocking items. Adding additional locker vents to increase air flow may also be a good option.
Finally, chargers should ideally be as close to the battery or bank as practical—shorter leads mean less installation cost, less voltage drop and increased charger performance over the life of the unit. That being said, they should not be mounted directly over the batteries. Batteries, particularly wet cell types, produce corrosive gases while charging, which can quickly damage a charger located above them.
Mounting the charger
Once you’ve picked a suitable spot, it’s time to mount the charger. Screws are an acceptable option to mount smaller chargers to a thick bulkhead or structure. The charger should be through-bolted, however, if it weighs more than a couple of pounds. Make sure you use marine-grade stainless steel for all mounting hardware. Getting wired
Next up is connecting the charger, which involves installation of both AC (to power the charger) and DC wiring (between the charger and battery). DC wiring should be sized according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, which are based on the distance between the charger and battery. This measurement is “round-trip” length (i.e. the full length of both the negative and positive wires).
The longer the wire run, the larger diameter wire you’ll need to offset loss due to voltage drop (a loss of power resulting from the use of wire that’s too small for the run). Using smaller diameter wire than recommended can both decrease charge voltage seen at the battery and increase charging time.
Wires should be routed as directly as possible and provided with support and chafe protection as needed. Once the wire runs are in place, connect them to the battery charger as per the owner’s manual. Wire to wire connections should be made using marine-grade butt splices, preferably those with heat shrink tubing. Never use wire nuts or electrical tape joints—they will eventually fall off leaving energized connections exposed. If the charger DC wire terminates in spring clamps or alligator clips to make the battery connection, cut them off and replace with proper, marine-grade ring terminals.
For smaller boats or watercraft without a permanently installed AC system, hooking up the AC side can be as simple as plugging the battery charger into a suitable extension cord. For a more permanent install where the charger is the only AC-powered item on board, another option is installation of a grounded AC power inlet (such as the Marinco 15A Battery Charger Inlet), which accepts a standard extension cord plug.
If your boat already has an AC system installed, plugging the charger in a convenient outlet (if one’s nearby) may be an option. If not, you’ll want to power it from the main AC distribution panel using marine-grade, multi-stranded, three-conductor, AC wiring (no residential-type solid strand wire, please). Pick an unused circuit breaker of the amperage called for by the charger manufacturer (typically 15 to 20 amps), and connect as per the instructions.
Practice safe wiring by making sure all AC power sources (including inverters and generators) are off and disconnected before starting any work! When all connections are done (with the AC power off) make the final charger connections to the battery and verify the installation is complete. Once that’s done, all that’s left is energizing the AC circuit, powering up the charger, and basking in the seductive glow of electric success!
By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine September 2015
You see them in pretty much every land-based facility—those innocuous little sentinels that warn us of fire and carbon monoxide (CO). The good news for mariners is that their umbrella of protection doesn’t have to end at the water’s edge. Here’s why carbon monoxide detectors are essential for protecting you and your onboard guests.
CO is a potentially lethal gas produced when burning any carbon-based fuel (gasoline, diesel, propane, wood, etc.). While the most common source of CO is exhaust from gasoline or diesel engines, any open flame device such as a stove, heater or grill can produce it. Common signs of CO poisoning include headaches, dizziness, weakness, drowsiness, headache, and nausea—symptoms that can all too easily be attributed to seasickness, alcohol, or too much sun exposure rather than CO poisoning. Although death can occur quickly in a CO-rich environment, exposure to smaller amounts can be just as lethal. The effects of CO are cumulative and can build up gradually in a person’s bloodstream for hours or even days before reaching critical levels. How quickly this occurs is dependent on the concentration of CO being inhaled (measured in parts per million [PPM]) and the duration of exposure.
Unlike the smoke generated by a fire, carbon monoxide is colorless, tasteless and odorless, so the only reliable way to guard against it is the installation of a CO detector. The American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) Standard A-24 recommends the installation of carbon monoxide (CO) detectors for all boats utilizing inboard gasoline-powered engines or generators and featuring an enclosed accommodation compartment—defined as a contiguous space containing sleeping accommodations, galley area with sink and a head compartment. ABYC exempts diesel engines from this requirement and while it’s true they produce less CO than gasoline engines, my personal recommendation is that detectors be installed aboard both gasoline and diesel-powered vessels.
The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 302 calls for vessels 26 feet or more in length with accommodation spaces intended for sleeping to be equipped with a single-station smoke alarm listed to UL 217 (Standard for Single and Multiple Station Smoke Alarms) and suitable for use in recreational vehicles. ABYC requires that CO detectors be tested to UL 2034 standards.
CO can easily be generated by other sources on board or even introduced from nearby boats via the ventilation system. If you utilize a generator to power air conditioners and other appliances while at anchor, an even better option would be a CO alarm system designed to shut off the generator once CO is detected, such as those offered by Fireboy-Xintex (fireboy-xintex.com) or MariTech Industries (powerboatsafety.com).
Smoke and CO detectors can be purchased individually or as combination units. Another option to the traditional single unit smoke detector is Fireboy-Xintex’s FR Series Fire Detection Systems. The FR Series consists of a monitor panel that supports up to 14 remote smoke or heat detectors for a 12VDC system, or 8 detectors on a 24VDC system. Depending on the model, the FR systems support 1, 2, 4, 8, or 16 zones plus up to 2 audible alarms per zone.
The first impulse for many boat owners is to purchase residential-type units, but be aware that some may not meet construction requirements for marine-grade units (such as Underwriters Laboratories standard 1524).
CO and smoke detectors can be either battery powered (the 9-volt type) or hardwired to a vessel’s DC system. The obvious benefit of battery-powered units is that they can be installed almost anywhere without the need for wiring; however, this lack of an external power supply can also be a disadvantage from a reliability standpoint.
Like their land-based counterparts, battery-powered marine detectors “chirp” to warn users when their internal battery is low. Unlike a typical land-based home or office, boats may go weeks or even months without use. As such, even if the unit chirps for weeks before dying, it’s possible no one will be around to hear it. The best policy here is to self-test the unit weekly and replace the batteries regularly as per the manufacturer. It’s important to note that in the past, CO detectors gained a bad reputation for generating numerous false alarms. Older “single point” alarms began shrieking at the slightest hint of CO, which could be unnerving as a whiff or two of CO commonly drifts into the cabin periodically throughout the day. Modern units use “time-weighted averaging” to determine the amount of CO present over a period of a few minutes rather than at one point in time, greatly reducing the number of false alarms.
Hardwired marine units are powered by the vessel’s 12- or 24-volt DC power system. Those designed for residential or commercial installations (should you still be tempted) utilize 120VAC, which may not always be available while cruising. Power for hardwired detectors must be provided (via an appropriate fuse or circuit breaker) from the “hot” side of the battery switch to prevent them from being accidentally shut off.
Neither ABYC or NFPA states specifically where CO or smoke detectors should be located on your vessel, however they do provide some general guidelines. Primarily, they must be located to monitor the atmosphere in the main cabin and each sleeping area.
Choose a location that both protects the detector from physical damage (rain, spray, sunlight, etc.) and avoids what ABYC calls “dilution of sampled air,” which could occur near hatches, ports, or forced ventilation openings. Locations containing “dead air” spaces should also be avoided to prevent distorted readings.
Unlike LPG or gasoline vapors, which are heavier than air, CO has roughly the same weight as oxygen meaning detector placement is not limited to high or low areas of the cabin. As such, choose a location that is roughly eye level, which makes it easier to monitor detector meters or warning lights.
Finally, both CO and smoke detectors have a limited lifespan. Detectors or sensors (if part of a system) typically need to be replaced every five years, however this varies between units. Check with the manufacturer and verify the recommended replacement intervals prior to purchase and installation.
Recommended replacement dates vary depending
on the unit and manufacturer.
The following general safety recommendations concerning the dangers of carbon monoxide apply to all vessels and in particular to houseboats and/or similarly constructed vessels:
1. Stay out of areas where carbon monoxide can collect while the engine or generator is running and for at least an hour afterwards. The Coast Guard advises owners and operators of boats to turn off generators with transom exhaust ports when the swim platform on the stern is in use.
2. Don’t allow swimmers near exhaust portals or areas where air pockets may be located under the boat. Swimmers should avoid the area beneath transom swimming platforms or rear decks while the engine or generator is running; if exhaust vents are located on the vessel’s side, these areas should be avoided as well. Adults should keep a close watch on children at all times, particularly when they are playing or swimming in the swim platform area. As a general rule, passengers or crew should not be allowed to sit on swim platforms while the vessel’s engine(s) or generator is running.
3. Use caution when boats are tied together, as carbon monoxide generated in one vessel can enter other nearby vessels via air conditioning intakes, open portholes, etc.
4. Know the signs of carbon monoxide poisoning and if suspected, relocate the victim to an area of fresh air and seek medical attention immediately.
5. Read and obey all carbon monoxide warnings placed on generators and engines by the manufacturer, and never tamper with or disconnect carbon monoxide detectors or monitors.
6. Turn off generators prior to going to sleep AND turn off the main AC breaker so “demand start” generators will not start during the night.
Hurley Marine’s brand-new davit was developed with security and ease in mind. The H3O Dinghy Davit is a convenient storage and deployment system that accommodates a variety of small craft up to 400 pounds, and it easily installs onto swim platforms.
This linear-bunk system is constructed out of high-density polyethylene with a removable stainless steel wench that can adjust between three and six feet. The H3O allows for quick release and retrieval while keeping a low profile. Comes with a two-year warranty. MSRP $1,789.95
Information:
Hurley Marine, Inc.
1125 Lake Shore Drive
Escanaba, MI 49829 USA
(906) 553-6249 hurleymarine.com
A quick view of some of the features of the Rocna 15″ anchor.
Set it and forget it. With a roll bar to ensure optimal setting position every time, the Rocna Anchor holds firm in any bottom type. It’s easy to handle, with a variety of attachment points, and typically sets within 3 feet of where it’s dropped. Fourteen model sizes for boats 16-150 feet each come with a galvanized steel finish.
Lifetime warranty. MSRP starts at $147.99; rocna.com
Webasto has been manufacturing top-of-the-line automotive sunroofs for over 50 years and now introduces the Thermo & Comfort Control Marine Sunroof Systems. Highest-grade materials are used to construct the retractable, watertight windows to the sky—each comes preassembled with all the equipment required.
Models range from manual aluminum to motorized stainless steel options, and feature robust construction and easy installation. Windows are made of tempered safety glass with a gray tint. You can also opt for the retractable soft-top roof model with customizable fabric color in one of three available sizes to suit your vessel’s needs.
