Classic yachts and wannabes rule the seas at the 38th Sweethearts of the Caribbean and 34th Classic Yacht Regatta. This low-key event hosted by the West End Yacht Club (WEYC) in the B.V.I. on Valentine’s Day Weekend February 12-14 is part time warp, part modern-day regatta, and a whole lot of fun. There aren’t many regattas where classes include 100-plus-year-old yachts, but this one does. A few of the famous fractional-rig, wood-built Tortola sloops always take part—the 22-foot Intrepid, 25-foot Youth Instructor, and, we hope, the newly restored 29-foot Esmie. These vessels once served as the only link between the B.V.I. and its neighbors and now compete in this regatta with a combination of adults and junior sailors as a neat tie between past and present. Although the event was originally conceived as a schooner race, dwindling participation led organizers to offer registration to “classic plastics” (yachts with fiberglass hulls more than 30 years old) and even newer monohulls in an Open class. Enjoyable regatta events happen on both sea and land. There’s a single-handed pursuit-style race to Jost Van Dyke the first day. The second day is a couples’ and crew fleet race around the natural markers of Peter, Pelican and Flanagan islands followed by a big, prize-giving party sponsored by Mount Gay Rum at the Fish n’ Lime restaurant in Soper’s Hole. “We expect around 40 entrants,” says WEYC Commodore Louis Schwartz. “The camaraderie generated through the decades by those who gather and sail has been immense. I know sailors who met at Sweethearts 25 years ago, married and now attend with their kids.” facebook.com/groups/weycbvi/
SweetheartsTim Wrigh. Photo: credit Tim Wright/photoaction.com
Schooner Rainmaker making way in a past Sweethearts regatta. Photo: Tim Wright/photoaction.com
Wed then weigh anchor in Antigua and Barbuda. The twin-island country of Antigua and Barbuda is such a popular wedding destination that Horizon Yacht Charters offers a five-day itinerary. It’s the perfect venue for those who want to say their “I do’s” ashore with family and friends and then jump ship to their own private yacht for a honeymoon charter. “February is a great time to charter as it’s high season, meaning there is an abundance of restaurants, bars and shops open allowing you to anchor off in a bay and dinghy across to enjoy a romantic dinner or to go and enjoy the nightlife,” says Megan Grant, the customer services representative who authored the five-day itinerary that starts from the company’s Jolly Harbour Marina base and includes several out-of-the-way stops. “Even though it’s high season, the beauty of chartering a boat in Antigua is that you can still find yourself alone in a secluded bay. One of the most spectacular is Pinching Bay just north of Five Islands Village and accessible only by boat. Imagine anchoring here and enjoying the peaceful vibes whilst barbecuing off the stern for lunch.” Traveling to Antigua and Barbuda just got a lot easier to love with the nearly $100 million renovation to the V.C. Byrd Airport completed last summer. The state-of-the-art facility features 15 self-service check-in kiosks, 14 departure gates, 4 jet bridges, a mini food court, and more than a dozen retail stores. horizonyachtcharters.com
Island hop this cruiser’s paradise in which scenery, characters and proximity appeal to novice and experienced boaters alike.
The dinghies approached us as if they had suddenly materialized on the water, before we even had a chance to grab onto a mooring. Time to pay up the mooring ball fee, we thought. Instead the men broke out singing. “Oh, what a beautiful morning,” belted out Sacko Sam under the high noon sun. That’s the kind of unforgettable welcome you get in the British Virgin Islands, where the serenity of the islands, majestic sceneries and colorful characters charm and invite you for a new adventure, no matter how many times you’ve cruised their turquoise seas.
In early August the Southern Boating crew composed of my family and friends took off for a seven day cruise aboard two powercats from The Moorings charter fleet, the 514PC and the 393PC. The trip was to give us quality time together, and while one cat would have accommodated all 10 of us, I had an ulterior motive: a learning experience for the younger generation (my children) to learn to navigate, read the waters and charts, monitor the onboard machinery, and master anchoring and mooring techniques. In short, they would man their very own vessel in unfamiliar waters. From the distance of my powercat, I watched (as a proud father, teacher and captain) as they gained confidence and at times took the lead, guiding them when necessary.
After a quick stop in Road Town on Tortola (The Moorings’ base) to pick up our powercats, we departed for this archipelago of 60 islands, where one seemingly hops from island to island—a boater’s cruising paradise (and an ideal learning ground).
First on our journey: an easy and short southeast cruise to Cooper Island less than 7 nm away—a perfect way for the crew to familiarize itself with the vessels, take the dinghies out and relax in the crystal waters.
Skip Allen at the helm of the Mooring powercat.
Majestic mountains and crystal waters await everyone at The Bitter End Yacht Club on Virgin Gorda Island.
The colorful corals and sea life on the ocean floor of Virgin Gorda Island.
Our home for a week aboard one of The Moorings powercats.
Sacko Sam from Potter’s By The Sea on Anegada Island prepares a succulent dinner of monster lobster.
One of the Southern Boating crew member proudly showing off the large lobster he will eat later.
A typical afternoon on the white sandy beaches of the B.V.I.
On your next trip to Anegada Island, visit Potter’s By The Sea and see the many remembrances from our and other travelers.
The sign marks the spot of famed Foxy’s Bar on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour.
This charter experience created great memories and a stronger bond among the crew.
A Southern Boating “mermaid” during one of the many snorkeling adventures.
A crew member enjoying a stroll through the gargantuan boulders of The Baths on Virgin Gorda.
The bewitching braided trees and stone stacking on George Dog.
A mechanical issue on the 51′ powercat—a fizzling air conditioner due to trapped seaweed in the intake—had us cruising uncomfortably under high temperatures for a bit, yet failed to derail our plans. One of The Moorings’ certified technicians—who are scattered throughout the islands and readily available—quickly met us at our next stop, immediately identified and fixed the common problem as we explored (our minds at ease) The Bath and its gargantuan boulders on the south end of Virgin Gorda Island. The dazzling granite boulders, reminders of the island’s volcanic origins, form natural sheltered pools and scenic grottoes. Take the dinghy around a bit before you pick a spot to start exploring or be prepared for a lot of swimming to go around the boulders. We spent the evening docked at Bitter End Yacht Club, where we feasted at its landmark Clubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille, a favorite rendezvous for visiting boaters for its sea-to-table approach.
It was right as we arrived on Anegada Island—the longest jaunt of our trip—that the serenading men in their dinghies met us, their songs meant to lure us to their eateries and the island’s specialty: lobster. Sam, the jubilant chef of Potter’s By The Sea won us over, and after making our dinner reservations arranged for a taxi to take us to Loblolly Beach on the north shore for an afternoon of snorkeling on the Eastern Caribbean’s third largest continuous reef—where baby octopi, monster lobsters and yellowtail fish inhabit the vibrant corals. We made a quick stop at Flash of Beauty Beach, an improvised shack-like bar with its self-service refrigerator—as if walking into someone’s back porch straight from the seas—where the owner, a woman from Trinidad and Tobago decked out in a muumuu, sandals and head wrap entertained us with tales from the island. Wild goats and cattle roamed the flat and dry terrain, interspersed by marshes, where hundreds of bright pink flamingoes gathered on the road back to Potter’s By The Sea. As the sun came down, the simple and colorful shack house with its wooden picnic tables came to life with strings of lights dangling from the tin ceiling. Sam danced and sang by the grill. T-shirts and flags from previous visitors hang on the roof. We added our own decór contribution and left a Southern Boating shirt behind.
While Great Dog Island was our next intended destination, the lack of available moorings led us to Kitchen Point on George Dog. There, the trees’ long branches shot out and seemingly braided with one another to form natural trellises, where visitors left balanced stacks of rocks behind—we added our own. We docked at Scrub Island Resort & Marina on Scrub Island, reveled in their salt water two-level infinity pool—the slide takes you from the top level with pool bar right to the bottom—and shopped at the many boutiques before enjoying a scrumptious dinner of fresh seafood at Tierra! Tierra! under the stars. Back at the docks, a real spectacle awaited us as jellyfish and tarpons glided in the waters lit by colorful underwater lights.
We encountered yet another character on Brewers Bay on the northern coast of Tortola. Miss Lou, a petite woman in her 70s with weathered skin and a knack for captivating anecdotes, owned yet another small bar along the white sandy beach. It was as we sat enjoying our drinks, taking in the view of the mountains and recounting Miss Lou’s stories that we almost lost one of our dinghies—not pulled nearly far enough on the sand, it gave in to the waves that took it hundreds of yards away. (It does happen to the most experienced of boaters.)
We moored on Jost Van Dyke’s Great Harbour and strolled along the waterside road with its bars, gift shops, dive shops, small markets, and a fresh drink at Foxy’s Bar. The next day we moved westward to White Bay, home of the famed Soggy Dollar Bar, where patrons linger to play a game of ring toss. We finished our cruise with a visit to Norman Island known for its legends and tales of pirates and treasures, where more snorkeling awaited us within the dark caves of Treasure Point.
The laid-back vibe of the B.V.I. and the proximity of the islands invite you to abandon your agenda and just go with the flow. Whether the lack of moorings, the weather, your crew’s change of heart—or their newly gained confidence—allow yourself to hop from islets to cays and coves, take in the scenery, and discover the B.V.I again and again through the eyes of its most colorful characters.
Sample traditional Latin flavors and rhythms at Fiesta Típica, the signature shore-side event part of Club Náutico de San Juan’s six-decade-old International Billfish Tournament set for September 24-30. On the water, organizers aim to add an exciting new challenge as well as a bold conservation move by setting the regulation weight of fishing line at only 30 pounds instead of the customary 50 or 80 pounds. “We hope to increase participation from world-class anglers around the globe with a change to lighter line,” says tournament chairman Ricky Jaen. The September full moon signals the peak of the marlin season in Puerto Rico’s famous Northern Trench known as Marlin Alley. In addition to Fiesta Típica there is a full program of land activities for non-fishing spouses and spectators. sanjuaninternational.com
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
The team aboard Picara fights a blue marlin in the IBT., Photo: Richard Gibson
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival in Aruba, Courtesy of Festival Organizers
BVI-Trellis Bay, Courtesy of BVI Tourist Board
Aruba’s music festival
Go “below the belt” out of hurricane reach to Aruba for the 9th Annual Caribbean Sea Jazz Festival Aruba. Set for September 25-26 at the Renaissance Festival Plaza adjacent to the 158-slip Renaissance Marina, this two-day, open-air concert will welcome groups such as Earth, Wind & Fire; the Mike Stern Band; Jessy J; and the Ploctones. If you’re not into Jazz, there’ll be a good music mix of Latin, Blues, Funk, Soul, and Salsa. “The Festival is not only about great music. We also have an outstanding food court with eight different restaurants, numerous bars, an art gallery, and a tantalizing atmosphere on site,” says Friso Veenman, the Festival’s executive producer. New this year, Eat Local Aruba Restaurant Week follows from September 28th to October 9th. Sample the island’s national dish, Keshi Yena, a spicy mix of beef, goat or chicken stuffed into a round of Gouda or Edam cheese and baked. Participating restaurants offer prix-fixe lunches for $15 and dinners for $30-40. Both events are within walking distance from the Renaissance Marina in Oranjestad, Aruba’s capital city. caribbeanseajazz.com
B.V.I.’s iconic full moon parties
Full moon parties—in reality, hedonistic affairs complete with pain-killing drinks, pulsating music and rumors of psychedelic mushrooms—are an iconic way to celebrate monthly in the B.V.I. This pleasurable practice began back in the early 1970s when Bomba Smith Callwood cobbled together some driftwood, plywood boards, old tires, broken surfboards, and whatever else he could scavenge to build a beachside bar in Capoons Bay. Bomba started his full moon parties soon after, creating a boom in business that landed his namesake Bomba Shack on AOL’s Top Ten list for best beach bars in the world. Today, this full moon tradition has spread to Trellis Bay on Beef Island and to Foxy’s Bar in Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke. Mark your calendar now! All three will happen on September 27th.
By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine September, 2015
We departed Scrub Island at a leisurely pace and headed west along the northern coast of Tortola. After 40 minutes of cruising we arrived at our first destination of the day, Brewers Bay. This small, well-protected cove provided a picture perfect backdrop for our day filled with snorkeling, swimming and exploring the beach. We visited the small bar along the sand and met the local patrons and owner, Miss Lou who told us more about the history of the area and sprinkled in a little gossip too. We hated to leave but were anxious to get to our next destination, Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke. We carefully selected our mooring ball to get the most protection from the strong winds common in this area and then quickly launched our dinghy so we could explore the famous little village. We strolled along the waterside road that is home to several small bars, restaurants, a gift shop, small market and dive shop. The strip is anchored by the well-known Foxy’s Bar where we popped in for a cold drink and took in the scenery of hundreds of T-shirts hung by patrons from around the world. Our evening ended with a fabulous meal and great conversation on the aft deck of our boat, doesn’t get much better than that.
How the Southern Boating crew gets around from boat to boat and island to island.
Sunset at Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke
Dive shop at Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke.
Sunset at Great Harbor, Jost Van Dyke.
Brewer’s Bay Beach, BVI.
Mike napping on a hammock in front of the famous Foxy’s Bar on Jost Van Dyke.
Foxy’s Bar sign.
Mike looking for the beer at the internationally known Foxy’s Bar on Jost Van Dyke.
Bar menu at Cool Breeze Bar on Jost Van Dyke Island.
