Chartering in Saint Lucia

Chartering in Saint Lucia

Chartering in Saint Lucia means you don’t have to be a sailor to enjoy this corner of paradise.

Asking someone to name five reasons to start chartering in Saint Lucia is like asking them to give five reasons they like dessert. I mean, what’s not to like? That said, if you’re looking for points why to choose this jewel over other places in the Caribbean, here are a few that will have you packing your bags in a hurry. Best of all, the Moorings/Sunsail base offers a selection of yachts that includes large new powercats which are becoming the fastest growing segment of charter fleets around the world.

The Practicalities

Because rum drinks and sunsets aren’t all there is to cruising, it’s best to check on the practicalities of your destination prior to departure. Consider things like the base facilities, provisioning, and selection of available yachts. IGY’s Rodney Bay Marina is one of the most attractive, safe, modern, and friendly marinas in the Caribbean. Originally constructed in 1985, this 220-slip facility offers onsite cafés, gift shop, pool, and showers. Every December, the marina hosts the finish of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers that attracts more than 250 boats and 1,200 people who have just crossed the Atlantic and are ready for a little pampering. You won’t be roughing it here, either.

Provisioning is easy with staples and delicacies available in every grocery store—there’s a large one in Gros Islet. We particularly enjoyed our time sampling the excellent restaurants of Gros Islet as well. Strolling along Reduit Beach looking for an appealing eatery, we couldn’t resist popping into the St. Lucia Yacht Club for a rum punch and the requisite hat.

Any Time’s a Good Time

Choosing the ideal time to charter is simple with St. Lucia, which is south of the typical hurricane belt. That’s not to say there is no hurricane season here; it’s just that St. Lucia is less likely to be impacted than the Leeward Islands. Our last trip that took place in the second half of October was without incident.

The weather is delightful year-round. From December to May, temperatures range from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and from June to November you can expect 75 to 95
degrees. There will be less rain in the winter, but you’ll likely experience rougher seas while Chartering in Saint Lucia. In the summertime, the ocean lays flatter and the trade winds are milder, typically around 10 knots rather than 25 knots. In other words, you can consider a charter for nearly any time of year. The payoff is that you can take advantage of shoulder seasons that offer not only lower rates, but also fewer tourists to compete with for anchorage space and restaurant times.

Stunning Vistas, Stellar Cuisine

The mere mention of St. Lucia evokes an image of the stunning Pitons, the twin conical peaks (volcanic plugs, actually) that are the iconic landmarks of this lush island. The town of Soufrière just below them is chock-full of colorful, camera-loving Creole buildings with gingerbread trim and New Orleans-style balconies. Anchor in Piton Bay to visit the village, or rent a car and drive the entire island for remarkable views and delicious cuisine that’s the best mix of French, Caribbean and Creole you will find anywhere. You’ll never want to cook on the boat.

We braved driving on the “wrong” side of the car—shifting with the left hand—and stopped off at Ladera Resort, a picturesque hotel built into the side of a mountain that overlooks the Pitons and serves inventive (if pricey) delicacies. Giant ferns and wild orchids greeted us at every stop around the island and although we ran out of time, I’m definitely returning to hike Soufrière, the extinct volcano that you can drive a rental car into. (Yes, all volcanoes in the Caribbean seem to be named Soufrière.) St. Lucia is the “honeymooners’ island,” and many people visit for strictly land-based vacations. Chartering offers an experience on both land and sea, taking paradise up a notch.

History Buffs Rejoice

Like most Caribbean islands, St. Lucia survived skirmishes between the French and English on numerous occasions. For a glimpse of this, we visited Pigeon Island, a 44-acre national landmark that is the site of the ruins of Fort Rodney. The fort was built in 1778 and named for Admiral George Brydges Rodney. In its time, the fort offered strategic views of Martinique to the north and provided the British with a peek at what the French were up to. The views of Gros Islet and the harbor below to the south are worth the climb to the top where cannons still point at the horizon, sentinels of days gone by.

Today, the site is a park with a lovely beach where one enterprising young woman cruises the shallows with her portable bar. She loads up a brightly decorated panga with fresh fruit and gallons of rum and then walks in the waist-deep water pulling the barge behind her, stopping to serve fruity cocktails to beachgoers as they lounge in the warm waves— like a St. Lucia version of UberEats.

The Perfect Jump Off Point

When chartering in Saint Lucia, you can spend an entire week along the western coastline, stopping off to snorkel at Anse Cochon or tucking into Marigot Bay with its red-topped homes and fun stores. But one of the glorious reasons to charter a powercat from St. Lucia is that you can go north to Martinique or south to St. Vincent and the Grenadines on a one-week charter and never feel rushed. (If you visit the Grenadines or Martinique, you’ll need to check in/out with St. Lucia’s Customs & Excise Department.)

Traveling at a cruising speed of 15 knots, you’ll reach Martinique’s Grand Anse d’Arlet in just three hours and enjoy bars, restaurants, and a postcard-worthy beach. Or run south
along the length of St. Vincent and tuck into Admiralty Bay on Bequia in the Grenadines in less than six hours. Catch a mooring in the bay and order up fresh baguettes to arrive via
the “bread man” the next morning. This lovely baker rows around the harbor every day at 6 AM to deliver still-warm loaves and croissants to early risers.

Turtle, Turtle

Visit the turtle sanctuary here and stroll along Belmont Walkway in search of the perfect lunch stop. Then cast off for the Tobago Cays, desert islets manned by “boat boys” who will arrange a fantastic beach barbeque on request. This is a Robinson Crusoe fantasyland that served as a backdrop for the movie Pirates of the Caribbean. Lounging on the flybridge with a chilled glass of anything, you’re bound to see turtle heads popping up all around.

Chartering in Saint Lucia means so much more than just one island, especially on a powercat, so why limit your choices? Cruise near or far and enjoy the best of the Windward Isles. I know I’ll be back for more sun, beaches, Creole cuisine, and history. After all, when dessert is as good as the best chocolate you’ve ever had, you go back for seconds.

Cruiser Resources

CURRENCY
Eastern Caribbean Dollar
(U.S. dollar widely accepted)

AIRPORT
Hewanorra International Airport (UVF)
hewanorrainternationalairport.com

MARINAS
IGY-Rodney Bay Marina, Castries
1-758-458-4892
rbm@igymarinas.com
VHF channel 16
igy-rodneybay.com
Customs/Immigration, provisioning, laundry, car rental, bank, post office, fuel, market

The Landings Resort & Spa Marina, Gros Islet
1-844-886-3762
landingsstlucia.com/marina 

By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating April 2018

Day Eight: Heading Home

Day Eight: Heading Home

Our final day was was sad just like any other last day of a fun-filled vacation. The morning was consumed with cleaning what we called home (power cat) for the past 7 days. We also gathered all of our left over provisions and searched the dock for departing sailors who may appreciate these treasures, like aluminum foil, charcoal, eggs and butter. We were in luck and met a very nice family just one slip over who were from England and taking the journey for the first time. Once we finished The Moorings departing brief we were on our way back to the Road Town fast ferry that would return us to the Charlotte Amalie, U.S.V.I. port and then one final taxi to the airport. We had a few more laughs before our flight back to Miami but it was obvious that our hearts were heavy with the yearning for one more cruise.

The plane that will take us back home.

Day Six: White Bay, Sandy Cay, and Norman’s Island

Day Six: White Bay, Sandy Cay, and Norman’s Island

We departed Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke, anxious to explore more of the turquoise waters. We started the morning snagging our first mooring ball at White Bay, home of the famous Soggy Dollar bar and grill where patrons sign the guest book and linger with cold drinks, play a game of ring toss or just relax in the shallow waters with the provided chairs. What a fun way to start the day. Our next stop was a tiny island named Sandy Cay where the waters were crystal clear and the beach was inviting. We anchored for a quick swim and checked out the shoreline and then moved on cruising south to Normans Island. We settled on a mooring location in the Bight for a well-protected evening stay. Once we settled in we jumped in the dinghy’s for late day exploration before a yummy dinner onboard.

Day Seven: Privateer Bay, Soldier Bay, and Tortola

Day Seven: Privateer Bay, Soldier Bay, and Tortola

Our final day on the water was a bit sad knowing our vacation was coming to an end but we made sure to maximize our time on Norman Island. After a quick breakfast we moved our boats a little further to the west to Privateer Bay to set up our day anchorage to get closer to the snorkeling that included several caves at Treasure Point. They were a little eerie but we loved it! We further explored the coast in our dinghy’s to the farthest western point named Carvel where the waves crashed between the rocks and created quite a spectacle. From there we moved on to Soldier Bay to see what else we could find. We had a nice lunch on the aft deck and then suited up for our final snorkel excursion. A few hours later, as much as we hated to, we were headed back to The Moorings base on Tortola. We finished off the evening with a dip in their pool, so nice after a long day in the salty waters.

Day Five: Brewer’s Bay and Great Harbor Island

Day Five: Brewer’s Bay and Great Harbor Island

We departed Scrub Island at a leisurely pace and headed west along the northern coast of Tortola. After 40 minutes of cruising we arrived at our first destination of the day, Brewers Bay. This small, well-protected cove provided a picture perfect backdrop for our day filled with snorkeling, swimming and exploring the beach. We visited the small bar along the sand and met the local patrons and owner, Miss Lou who told us more about the history of the area and sprinkled in a little gossip too. We hated to leave but were anxious to get to our next destination, Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke. We carefully selected our mooring ball to get the most protection from the strong winds common in this area and then quickly launched our dinghy so we could explore the famous little village. We strolled along the waterside road that is home to several small bars, restaurants, a gift shop, small market and dive shop. The strip is anchored by the well-known Foxy’s Bar where we popped in for a cold drink and took in the scenery of hundreds of T-shirts hung by patrons from around the world. Our evening ended with a fabulous meal and great conversation on the aft deck of our boat, doesn’t get much better than that.

Day Four: George Dog Island and Scrub Island

Day Four: George Dog Island and Scrub Island

We left Anegada and arrived an hour later at a cluster of islands known as “the Dogs.” There were no open moorings at Great Dog Island (you can’t anchor because it’s a national park) so we decided to head over to George Dog Island, where we had a great time and saw some beautiful reefs—beware of the thousands of baby jelly fish! The lush vegetation on the tiny beach we visited formed what seemed like a personal natural hideaway. Under the hideaway, visitors have left behind balanced stacks of rocks, we added to the tradition and created our own.

From George Dog we headed out and cruised to Scrub Island Resort & Marina on Scrub Island, our next home for the night. Once all docked and the boats hosed down, we opted for some pool-side relaxing time. We lost ourselves in the vast blue of the horizon from the infinity pool and sat back in the saltwater jacuzzi—the cherry on top. The luxurious property offers multiple villas, hotel rooms, a dive shop and market—yet has the feel of a small and intimate property. Taken by the island’s natural beauty, we chose to have dinner at Tierra! Tierra! their outdoor restaurant. We enjoyed a large spread of foods ranging from jerk chicken wings, ribs to red snapper ceviche and fresh caught grouper as we listened to the rhythmic sound of steel drums—island music par excellence.

Day Three: Anegada Island

Day Three: Anegada Island

Today, we cruised to the island of Anegada, whose highest point on the island is only 28 feet and has a population of only 250 people. Upon arriving we were greeted by several dinghy boats driven by locals, serenading and promoting their many services including dinner reservations, taxi cabs, fishing charters, and nightly entertainment. Each local was more creative than the next in trying to score our business. The one that stuck out the most was Sacko Sam (“with a capital S,” he says) as he approached the boat singing his own made up tunes to what a beautiful morning it was! He arranged for a taxi ride to take us from his restaurant to Loblolly Beach (north shore of the island), which boasts the best snorkeling on the island. We opted for the more local spot and were brought to Flash of Beauty Beach—a shack like building/restaurant run by a woman from Trinidad. Our taxi driver was very engaging and knowledgeable. He gave us a bit of a history lesson on our ride to the beach, showed us the local flamingos, wild goats, cows, and where sharks come to give birth. He was filled with fun facts! Did you know that certain fibers extracted from the leaves of an agave plant can be used to stitch your sail or even your skin? Fun facts aside, the snorkeling was amazing as strong currents kept us on the move allowing us to see a good portion of the reef.

Dinner gets it’s own paragraph because the entire experience was that spectacular! We decided to eat at Potter’s by the Sea, which is where Sacko Sam prepared a fabulous lobster dinner for 10. The lobsters are unlike any other I’ve ever seen before for consumption (especially in the United States). Sam brought what looked like an 8-10 pound lobster to tease us for what we were in store for at dinner. The meal was prepared Caribbean-style complete with grilled lobsters prepared a la Sam. After dinner, dancing under the stars and limbo began. Before departing Anegada we left our mark at Potter’s, southern boating style, leaving behind our vacation shirt and signing our names with Sharpies! So, bring your sharpies and leave your mark too!

Day Two: Virgin Gorda Island

Day Two: Virgin Gorda Island

Our first full day on the boat was a great one! We threw “ structure” out of our day and just went with the flow—what an amazing feeling. We woke up and started cruising to our next destination before we even had breakfast; we just couldn’t wait! This kind of laxity isn’t something you get to experience on a daily basis, but how easy would it be to get used to.

Our first stop was Virgin Gorda to see The Baths. The gargantuan boulders lie on the sands like marbles a giant left behind. Our first suggestion to everyone visiting The Baths, is to make sure you pick the right spot to start exploring. We made the mistake of unloading all of our gear too far north and ended up having to do a lot of extra swimming to circumvent some of the spots with boulders. The only way we would have been able to get around was by jumping from boulder to boulder (!). We could have stayed there all day, it was stunning.

Our second and last stop for the day was at Bitter End Yacht Club. We slowly cruised up the coast from The Baths to BEYC. First thing on our agenda as we arrived at the club was frozen drinks at the pool—so refreshing. We had dinner at one of their restaurants (The Clubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille); they couldn’t have sat us at a better table—just a foot away from the water. The property and service are top notch.

Not much to report on after-dinner activities as we are starting to notice a trend: Staying up past 9PM is proving to be very difficult after a day full of fun in the sun!

Day One: Cooper Island

Day One: Cooper Island

Cruising day one of our great vacation has come and gone! It began with finishing up provisioning for both of our boats, so we can start cruising towards Cooper Island. The journey was short with beautiful views including the spectacular multiple-shades of blue water. The most difficult decision of the afternoon was definitely picking out which moorings to tie up to, just kidding!

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