Cruising through Europe

Thomas Kittel retires from a successful executive career and with his wife, Jutta, he embarks on a series of cruising adventures that most would not have the courage to consider. Here is his travel diary cruising through Europe.

With a flying start, we set out on our Marlow 72E Azura for our fourth major voyage and leave Rostock, Germany, on May 12, 2017. A strong easterly wind pushes us through the Fehmarn Sound to Kiel where German customs show that they are still attentive and pay us a visit. Even though the check is routine, they wear bullet-proof vests and one person must stay on the dock. After checking our papers, their main interest is our 13,000-liter fuel tank. Some boat owners use tax-saving sources because of the high fuel prices, but we employ no such means and have nothing to fear. They are satisfied by the email exchange from the fuel supplier. With that, we’re on our way to begin cruising through Europe.

The locks and motoring through the Kiel Canal are routine for us, and we stay in the familiar Cuxhaven SVC Marina. One morning, however, I learn that too much routine can have its downsides. When backing out from the yacht harbor, I turn in a little too early and ram a lightweight floating dock. Luckily, only our hull’s paint and gelcoat are damaged, but the floating dock is heavily bent. We immediately dock at the nearby diesel filling station and then, of course, the whole communication goes off with the port, the water police, and my insurance. Finally, everyone has what they need, and we’re back on our way.

Safety First

Misfortune, however, is seldom alone and shortly after leaving Cuxhaven, dense fog envelops us. Sailors without an automatic identification system (AIS) are only visible as a small, colored point on the radar screen and I’m forced to dodge them. After some tense moments, the fog clears and the day becomes glorious with sun and little wind as we travel along the East Frisian Islands to Norderney.

To continue on through the Netherlands, we opt to cruise inside on De Staande Mastroute because it allows the vertical clearance we need and avoids the North Sea. We already know a large part of the route, but it is always fun to steer our large “steamer” through the pretty Holland countryside with its narrow canals and bridges.

We stop over in Dokkum and get to know this picturesque “dollhouse” with distinctive windmills. As we travel through Lemmer, Amsterdam, Haarlem, and Dordrecht, Willemstad is one of the highlights on the Dutch section of our trip. Here, we manage to get a place in the old, small town port without a reservation. This harbor, built into the former citadel, offers a very rare photo opportunity, but you’ll have to accept the tourist crowds because Willemstad is an attractive tourist destination.

Our visit here the previous year was filled with annoyance and unplanned detours from blocked bridges, but everything goes smoothly. We reach Zeebrugge, Belgium, as planned, where we take our first guest on board and leave behind the familiar waterways. Dunkerque is our first French seaport and a significant rite of passage. It’s where our watersports activities began 20 years prior with a motorboat we chartered in Pontailler-sur-Saône (Burgundy) without the slightest clue about boating.

From the sea, Dunkerque is not exactly inviting. Immediately at the entrance to the harbor, huge industrial buildings with smoking chimneys form the reception committee. We decide for the marina closer to the center and are rewarded by two female harbormasters who are friendly, professional and create space for us on the jetty. However, there is no real French “feeling” here. Much appears to be outdated, many places are empty and deserted, and the sailboat next to us is sprinkled liberally with verdigris and doesn’t help the atmosphere. It’s the same with Boulogne-sur-Mer, despite the very well-preserved old town built on a hill.

Lock it up

But then comes Le Tréport. Some courage is needed to enter the small fishing port and marina, which can only be reached at high tide by a barely sufficient lock. You have to rely on the harbormaster for possible free berths because on your own, you see nothing from the lock. In the lock, we get a pontoon number assigned and sneak through the ever-narrowing port to discover that the designated space is occupied. We tie up provisionally alongside the tour boat Eros, but with no other alternatives, we remain there albeit with no electricity, no water, and a small climb through the tour boat to get ashore.

Le Tréport is located at the mouth of the Bresle River and the coast’s more than 100-meter-high chalk cliffs strongly remind us of the English coast, which was probably the reason for Queen Victoria’s two visits. You can climb the 370-plus steps or ascend the cliffs with an inclined lift hewn into the rocks. At the top, your reward is a breathtaking view of the sea, the village of Le Tréport and Mers-les-Bains across the river.

Here, the undisputed star is the 1844-built lighthouse that stands on the top of the western pier to the harbor entrance. Even at high tide, it rises impressively, but at low tide, it unfolds an even greater impact. Up to 10 meters of water has disappeared, and the fairway to the port is completely empty. The piers projecting out of the sand now look like huge castle walls on which the lighthouse towers like a keep.

There’s an additional building that houses a large bell and several giant fog horns. It’s easy to imagine which hellish spectacle prevails here in fog. I feel reminiscent of the ill-conceived fog horn in Long Day’s Journey into Night by Eugene O’Neill, which I recently saw in Hamburg. But unlike the play, the weather is peaceful. Evening walkers populate the pier to the lighthouse, whose romantic flair no one can escape, and a short-term cloud hole offers a near completely calm sea. The air is like velvet and silk, a moody atmosphere for our photography.

Memories

Before we leave Le Tréport the next day, the wind suddenly turns and increases in strength. We have only two hours to Dieppe before us, but for the first time on this tour, things get a bit bumpy. Luckily, we stowed the fenders and lines in port beforehand. Dieppe welcomes us with a large, well-protected marina in the city center. Here we rent a car for the first time and drive to Amiens, the departmental capital of Picardy, with which I connect many memories from my school days—first trip abroad, appearances with the school orchestra, accommodation with a French family, flirting with the daughter of the house.

Often the reality of today disappoints the glorified memories of yesterday, but here it’s the other way around. The grey Amiens of my school days has become a charming city. The famous Cathédrale Notre Dame d’Amiens, one of the three great cathedrals of the High Gothic era, has the highest nave of all French cathedrals and served as a structural model for the Cologne Cathedral. The cathedral overlooks a pretty, old town where the Somme River’s side arms and canals create an almost Venetian flair.

Where the Somme enters into the sea lies the Baie de la Somme, which is dry at low tide and offers refuge for more than 300 species of birds. Le Crotoy, Saint-Valerie-sur- Somme and Cayeux-sur-Mer connect via a wonderful steam train. Somehow, despite their attractiveness, they have not succumbed tourist traps. Here, we feel France from its most beautiful side and enjoy again the fresh moules-frites (mussels and fries).

Change of Plans

The tide is unfavorable for cruising to Fécamp and Honfleur, so we opt for the always approachable Le Havre. Because the marina is so big, we’re almost alone. The sea is close to our outdoor pontoon, so the waves of the passing ships rock us to sleep.

We pick up our rental car and drive to the Rouen Cathedral, which owes its fame, not least of all, to the 33 paintings comprising Claude Monet’s series of pictures created in different lighting conditions from 1892 to 1894, a highlight in Monet’s oeuvre. We encounter paintings at every turn because, in many places in Normandy, there lived poor, now world-famous painters. Often, their pictures are informational signposts. This helps you see the artist’s perspective.

We next voyage to St.Vaast-la-Hougue and reach the lively harbor just as the gates open. There is still room at the visitor pontoon, and various English flags indicate that the eastern tip of the Cotentin peninsula is very popular with the British.

We leave St.Vaast the next morning. The weather is wonderful. We head for Cherbourg before the weather turns. At Marina Port de Chantereyne, our scheduled berth was occupied by its owner that evening. But the harbor officials make up for their oversight with a much better berth next to the harbor office. The city is just a short walk away.

Croatia Awaits

Cherbourg is located at the northern end of the Cotentin peninsula. It’s the second-closest connection to England after Calais and where the World War II D-Day Normandy landings took place; Utah Beach is not far away. The fortifications of the Atlantic Wall on the huge flat sandy beaches are still present today, and many museums and events are reminiscent of historical events.

We’re here on the 73rd anniversary of the landing, and there’s a little celebration in Quinéville with military music, and historic military vehicles, tanks and uniforms—most under the American flag. Two speeches in French and English recall the events of yesteryear but also reference the threat posed by today’s terrorism. The German flies and we hear the national anthem and Beethoven’s Ode to Joy. Anyone expecting a one-sided celebration would be pleasantly surprised by the inclusivity. Before World War II, Cherbourg was the largest European gateway to the New World. The RMS Titanic stopped here before its fateful journey.

Despite the massive destruction in the World War II, a lot of history was preserved or restored. That includes the former nuclear submarine Le Redoutable, which could remain underwater for 70 days, was in service for 40 years and never fired any of its 16 atomic rockets.

Out at Cap de la Hague, the storm-ridden sea makes us happy to be safe in the harbor. Just south at Nez de Jobourg, we stop at the Auberge des Grottes and enjoy local specialties and spectacular views of the sea as far as the northernmost Channel Island, Alderney. After several days, the storm over the Atlantic begins to slow down, and we embark on the next great adventure: the Channel Islands.

By Thomas Kittel, Southern Boating October 2018

Cruise with the Marine Trawlers Owners Association

Cruisin’ with the Marine Trawlers Owners Association

The Marine Trawlers Owners Association hosts a five-day cruise to Cape May, New Jersey, that starts from Chesapeake City up along the C&D Canal that connects the upper Chesapeake Bay with Delaware Bay. It’s okay if you don’t have a trawler.

This group’s humble beginning started with two trawler owners and now has more than 2,000 members and more than 1,000 boats of many makes and models in eight regions of the U.S. As noted on its website, “Our group is not about a specific brand of boat; it’s about friendships, rendezvous, cruising, and ‘messing’ around in boats, and doing it with a trawler owners’ philosophy and outlook.”

The cruise to Cape May begins with a rendezvous on July 15th at the Chesapeake Inn Restaurant and Marina. On Monday, cruisers will head out and down the Delaware River to the South Jersey Marina in Cape May Harbor for a four-day stay. There are group activities or the option to just do your own thing.

mtoa.net

By Chris Knauss, Southern Boating July 2018

Photo courtesy of The Marine Trawlers Owners Association

More Mid-Atlantic Updates:

Cobia Season

Long Range Cruisers Guide

Who hasn’t cast their eyes over the distant horizon and just wanted to keep on going? With these 10 cruisers ranging from 50 to 104 feet, you can—for thousands of miles. Browse our Long Range Cruisers Guide to dream a little ocean dream.

Some of these long-distance cruisers are brand new on the market, while other old favorites have been optimized for comfort as you eat up the miles. There are also plenty of options for those who want the best of both worlds: fast semi-displacement speed for quick trips as well as an efficient ride at lower speeds for exceptional range. Feast your eyes—and cruising dreams—on these phenomenal vessels.

Nordhavn 59 Coastal Pilot

Krogen 50′ Open

Marlow 58E

Krogen Express 52

Outer Reef 610 Motoryacht

Horizon EP77

Hargrave 80

Azimut Magellano 66

Selene 92 Ocean Explorer

Cheoy Lee Global 104 Pilothouse

 

By Kate Lardy Southern Boating August 2017

Explore More with the Marlow 66E

A motoryacht equipped with an enclosed flybridge can redefine your idea of cruise control. 

If you’ve ever wondered whether an enclosed bridge motoryacht like the Marlow Explorer 66E is right for you, take a few moments to consider notable weather you’ve encountered while boating. For me, the list includes a three-day motoryacht delivery from Lake Michigan to Lake Erie in 20- to 30-knot late-fall squalls while operating from the open, Bimini- and hardtop-less flybridge. Another trip involved shivering on deck and peering through a portable night vision scope at dark Atlantic waters on a fast-moving sedan yacht returning to Miami from Key West in the winter trying not to collide with anything floating in our unlit path. Then there was the mid-July run from Cape May, New Jersey, to New York Harbor in a large center console and feeling the heat like a Bessemer blast furnace roaring off the land ahead of an approaching front.

When I consider how those experiences might have been improved had the yacht in question been the Marlow Explorer 66E, those scenarios all change to comfort for my crew and guests with better command and control from my helm perspective.

 

“I think the enclosed bridge market is growing for those who want to cruise in climate-controlled comfort,” says David Marlow, founder and CEO of Marlow Marine. “An enclosed bridge also creates multiple areas of conviviality, not only at the helm, but also on the main deck where a country kitchen and galley forward can replace the lower helm. Everyone tends to congregate there at mealtimes, and the open plan of our yachts means that they are not cut off from those in the saloon.”

Marlow’s “Command Bridge” designation is more than appropriate equipped as it is with a helm console nearly as wide as the bridge structure and all controls on the centerline, including a large handcrafted teak wheel. Two custom helm chairs offer flawless views of the waters all around. Aft and to starboard, the builder has provided a large settee and custom table for family and friends not participating in the yacht’s operation but wanting to enjoy the views nonetheless.

As befits a yacht of this caliber, there is more than enough room for three large displays ahead of the wheel (just a quick glance below the lower edge of the windshield), plus a large flat area beneath them for engine displays, binnacle, joysticks, and data repeaters. Communications and systems monitoring equipment is found in the overhead panel although there is an abundance of space in an extension of the console to port to house other navigation and communications equipment.

Two weathertight doors flanking the helm console and a single door on the aft bulkhead—all of which provide natural ventilation combined with overhead hatches when desired—create quick and easy access to the upper aft deck. Another settee and table are here for those guests who want to enjoy the open air or be entertained alfresco. A gas grill and outdoor kitchen are nearby, as is a desirable dayhead hidden away to port. Here you’ll find a crane and storage for the RIB dinghy plus enough space for a folding lounge chair when sunbathing is the daily plan.

A built-in stairwell leads from the upper aft deck down to the lower aft deck, but my guess is that most of those aboard will transit to the main deck via the interior stairs leading down along the port side of the bridge. Leather-covered stainless steel rails—like the ones overhead on the bridge—are inset with plenty of clearance and placed judiciously for effective handholds when using the stairs in a seaway.

The stairwell leads directly to the country kitchen and galley area forward on the main deck. The U-shaped galley is directly ahead with a marvelous view forward and to both sides for the chef, as well as a raised dinette aft that shares those views. Polished granite counters are large enough for multi-course meal preparation and service as well as simple meals when underway. Storage overhead and below the counters is plentiful, and the equipment—SubZero fridge and freezer drawers, five-burner gas Dacor cooktop, and under-counter Franke sinks, to name a few—is everything a well-equipped chef needs.

Two watertight doors provide quick access to side decks that are protected by the raised bulwarks of a Portuguese bridge for those who want to safely access the foredeck for anchoring or line-handling duties. The bulwark-and-handrail-equipped side decks lead aft and two steps down to the covered aft deck. Twin built-in settees with tables flank the centerline stairway leading down to the swim platform.

One of the stairs is a hatch that opens to a large storage room where the genset (among other equipment) is mounted. A watertight door on the forward bulkhead leads to crew quarters for those who may occasionally want the services of professional mariners to operate or deliver the yacht. Another watertight door leads forward into the engine room. Twin 1,000-hp CAT C18 ACERT diesels take up most of the engine room but leave plenty of space for service.

Back on the aft deck, twin doors open wide to reveal a spacious main salon with a bar and storage flanking the opening. A pair of loose lounge chairs to port and a large, comfortable couch to starboard provide abundant sitting space with an elegant custom wooden table in between. Two lockers provide small item storage along with a built-in writing desk forward. The storage hutch partially separating the salon from the galley and country kitchen has more storage and a locker hiding the large-screen TV. If you haven’t inspected a Marlow, the fit and finish of the interior is flawless—the epitome of the cabinetmaker’s and boat builder’s joiner work. Most lockers have impressive louvered doors for excellent ventilation.

Three steps with more of those stout handrails lead up to the country kitchen and down the starboard side stairway to the foyer serving the accommodations deck. A single bed in the laundry room serves double duty for folding clothes or napping grandkids. To port, the guest cabin has twin berths and an ensuite head with separate shower. Forward is the VIP stateroom, with an easily accessed island queen on the centerline, two hanging lockers and another ensuite head with separate shower.

The full-beam king master stateroom is positioned amidships for optimal stability and comfort and is notable for massive built-in storage on both sides of the room, which is kept low to allow good views out double portlights on both sides. And as an unexpected luxury, the builder has provided not one but two marble and frameless glass ensuite heads with separate shower compartments for the owners.

Since 2000, Marlow Marine has been building its Explorer line of yachts ranging from 49 to 97 feet in length in a Marlow-dedicated, award-winning “green” facility in Xiamen, China. David Marlow is committed to using only the best vinylester and epoxy resins in a trademark resin-infusion technology to make the lightest, strongest yachts. He is fond of saying that they have worked hard to get excess weight out of the company’s yachts while engineering them for efficiency, long service life and comfortable lifestyles afloat.

In my opinion, the Marlow Explorer 66E is true to David Marlow’s goal of building world-class yachts capable of comfortable, long-distance cruising. And if you like the idea of exploring in a climate-controlled atmosphere, you only need to step aboard and examine one closely for yourself.

SPECIFICATIONS

LOA: 76′ 9″

Beam: 19′ 6″

Draft: 4′ 10″

Weight: 84,000 lbs. (approx.)

Fuel/Water: 3,000/500 U.S. gals.

Power: 2x 1,000-hp CAT C18 ACERT diesels (opt.)

Cruise/Top Speed: 20 knots/25 knots

Range: 3,000 nm @ 8 knots

MSRP (base): Price on Request

CONTACT 

Marlow Yachts

(800) 362-2657

marlowyachts.com

By John Wooldridge  |  Photography by John Lambert, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017

A Different Type of Venice

A visit to this sleepy, seaside city invites equestrian-minded cruisers to experience “horse power” at its best.

When someone mentions a trip to Venice, it’s probable that the famous Italian city comes to mind. A close second would be Venice, California, with its beachy, boardwalk vibe. But in the Venice on Florida’s southern Gulf coast, you’ll find artistry of another kind and beaches that rank among America’s top rated. Once you see it for yourself, you’ll find this Venice remains all at once mysterious and inviting.

Venice offers 14 miles of sweeping shoreline that brushes up against the Gulf of Mexico. The beaches curate history, and along them you’ll find barefoot beachcombers diligently sifting through the sand as they search for gray, brown and black fossilized shark teeth. The city rests upon a fossil layer that dates back thousands of years to the time when the whole of Florida was under water. This makes Venice’s beaches one of the best places to find these fossilized artifacts and reaffirms the city’s claim to the moniker of “Shark Tooth Capital of the World.”

Not far from the beach, Venice Avenue’s architecture is inspired by classic Mediterranean design, which echoes in the brightly colored pink stucco buildings. You won’t find any chain stores here. Instead, a nice variety of boutique shops sell everything from nautical novelties to shark teeth necklaces. Venice’s orderly and well-planned design renders the coastal city as one of the most biker-friendly vacation spots in the state. Check out the Venetian Waterway Park as well as the Legacy Trail to avoid cars altogether and experience a scenic, peaceful ride through winding neighborhoods and shady foliage.

Venice is also a haven for cruisers. The Crow’s Nest Marina, located right inside the Venice Inlet, caters to transients and is one of the best places to dock the boat overnight. With Venice Beach only 200 yards away, the beachcombers and sun worshippers in your crew have easy access to the shoreline.

One of Venice’s best-kept secrets, however, is its quietly growing equestrian community. Florida is widely known for all things equine, from the Winter Equestrian Festival (the world’s largest horse show) in Wellington to the rolling pastures of Ocala, but it’s about time to add Venice to the list.

The family-run Fox Lea Farm (foxleafarm.com) is helping Venice rise in the rankings as a top equestrian mecca. The sprawling farm hosts dozens of horse shows annually and draws hundreds of spectators and participants to the area. Vendors arrive as well and help pump almost $75 million a year into the local economy, according to the Sarasota County Sports Commission.

Even though the facility draws some of the sport’s fiercest competitors, including multiple Olympians, the atmosphere fostered by Venice lends to a more relaxed, low-key setting. The increasing prestige of the show will test whether Venice will be able to keep its down-home soul, but for the people who visit and compete here, the venue remains a popular favorite. For many competitors, showing at Fox Lea Farm and being able to benefit from the Venice area brings a nice change of pace to their frequently hectic show routine.

If you’re looking to see the up-and-coming showgrounds, heading down Auburn Road will lead you right to the farm’s entrance. The long driveway is framed by shady foliage that eventually clears and allows for views of the show rings and multiple pastures. You’ll probably be able to spot a child trying to coax a stubborn pony to behave or see the larger show horses grazing peacefully along the driveway.

The Fox Lea show circuit caters to riders that participate in hunters, equitation and show jumping. Each discipline offers entertainment for every spectator, although sometimes knowing what you’re watching beforehand can help you better enjoy the experience. A hunter class will judge the horse as it goes around a series of jumps, while an equitation class will judge the rider on their position and ability to make every jump look effortless. In a show jumping class, the jumps are normally larger than in the other disciplines. The winner is determined by the fastest time around the course, which always leads to an edge-of-your-seat experience for the audience.

The United States Equestrian Federation (USEF) has approved Fox Lea to launch a brand new six-week winter circuit called the Venice Equestrian Tour (VET). The circuit begins on January 25th and will continue through March 5th. Each circuit “week” begins on Wednesday and ends on Sunday, meaning that competitors (and showgoers alike) will be able to experience everything Venice has to offer during their days off. Each week will also showcase a $25,000 Grand Prix that will include participants as famous in the equestrian world as Michael Jordan is in basketball.

Part of the reason for Fox Lea’s success is the quiet atmosphere of Venice. The farm draws equine enthusiasts from around the country who love to “showcation” and are looking to combine both turf and surf. When things around the showgrounds settle down on Sunday afternoon, many of the show’s participants and riders head to the beach or their boats for a few days to relax, rest and recharge before another week at the show begins.

The Venice Municipal Beach is as delightful as the surrounding town. It features wide, open stretches of sand as far as the eye can see, and there’s no shortage of things to do. Instructors offer free yoga sessions each morning starting at 8AM that are perfect for beginners. If yoga isn’t your thing, there’s also the option to rent personal watercraft and toys for the day. To search for the area’s famous shark teeth, venture on over to Caspersen Beach, which features direct access to the Venetian Waterway Trail.

Recharge and participate in a Venice tradition by grabbing a drink and some fresh fish tacos at Sharky’s on the Pier. This seafood restaurant serves great seafood in an atmosphere as relaxed as the beach. Afterward, head on out to the end of the pier to try your hand at fishing or just admire the view. The sunrise and sunset in Venice are both noteworthy, and the pier is a perfect place to catch glimpses of both after a long day. When you wake up the next morning, you can do it all over again.

CRUISER RESOURCES:
Marinas:

The Crows Nest

1968 Tarpon Center Drive

(941) 484-7661 • crowsnest-venice.com

Fisherman’s Wharf Marina

509 North Tamiami Trail

(941) 486-0500 • fishermanswharffl.com

The Venice Yacht Club

1330 Tarpon Center Drive

(941) 488-7708 • veniceyachtclub.com

 

Dining:
Luna Ristorante

200 Saint Augustine Avenue • (941) 412-9898

Sharky’s on the Pier

1600 Harbor Drive South

(941) 488-1456 • sharkysonthepier.com

By Susanna Botkin, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017

Spring Flower Festivals

Spring into Spring with these Spring Flower Festivals.

Spring into Spring with these flowery festivals.
Winter weather is fading fast. Warmer temperatures mean it’s time to get the boat from the yard and head out for some springtime cruising.
As the old saying goes, go cruising while the sun shines. (That’s how it goes, right?)

If the sun is shining and your spring cruising itinerary isn’t full quite yet, take a look at these flower-inspired festivals.  Bright colors and sweet scents are sure to put a spring in your step. You get bonus points if you can get there by boat, which, for a few on our list, is entirely possible.

You get bonus points if you can get there by boat, which, for a few on our list, is entirely possible.

National Cherry Blossom Festival (Ongoing) 

Washington, D.C.

How could you miss an event billed as the Nation’s Greatest Springtime Celebration? The National Cherry Blossom Festival celebrates spring in Washington, DC. The beautiful cherry blossom trees are a symbol of the enduring friendship between the people of the United States and Japan; the trees were a gift from 1912 and have been blooming ever since.

Get a schedule of events for the National Cherry Blossom Festival here.

If you go by boat, nearby marinas include Gangplank Marina, James Creek Marina, and Columbia Island Marina

Epcot International Flower & Garden Festival (March 1st-May 29th)
Orlando, Florida

Arriving in Orlando by boat may be a bit tricky, but the Epcot International Flower & Garden Festival is a sight to be seen. Stroll through an artistic assortment of gardens and see an array of topiaries shaped like favorite Disney characters. Please note that a ticket to the theme park is required.

For more information visit the Flower & Garden Festival website.

Azalea Festival (April 5th-9th)
Wilmington, North Carolina

The Azalea Festival is Wilmington’s annual spring celebration and the largest festival of its kind in the North Carolina. Since 1948, the Azalea Festival has been showcasing natural beauty, big-name entertainment, festive galas, and family events.

More information about Azalea Fest can be found here.

If going by boat, nearby marinas include Port City Marina, Cape Fear Marina, or Bradley Creek Marina.

Happy Spring! Enjoy these Spring Flower Festivals. If you happen to go to any of these events, please tell us about your experience by emailing us: info@southernboating.com

 

Gasparilla Island

For more than a century, Gasparilla Island has lured anglers seeking to combat the mighty silver king.

If you’re looking for a cruising destination with exciting nightlife, a vibrant social scene, reservation-only restaurants, and high-end shops that stay open well after sunset, Gasparilla Island is not it.

It also doesn’t have fast-food restaurants or a large supermarket, a shopping mall with department stores, high-rise condos, stoplights, neon signs on storefronts, a gas station, or traffic—golf carts are the preferred mode of transportation. And from what I could tell when I first drove into the town of Boca Grande (Spanish for Big Mouth), it doesn’t appear to have much of a police force either, or at least one that uses radar guns.

I was still in turnpike-driving mode and evidently missed the slower speed limit sign when a uniformed officer on the side of the road extended his arm and executed the universally understood palm-down motion for “slow down,” then casually resumed his conversation with a bicyclist. Indeed, what Gasparilla Island doesn’t have is what’s drawn second-home buyers seeking the old-Florida charm that’s disappeared from touristy towns. But what it does have is what’s drawn anglers from around the world for more than 100 years: tarpon.

Laidback Living

Gasparilla is a seven-mile-long barrier island on the north side of the mouth of Charlotte Harbor on Florida’s Gulf Coast. The barrier island on the south side is Cayo Costa. The distance between the two islands—Boca Grande Pass—is less than a mile across, and with holes reaching depths of more than 70 feet, it’s the deepest pass in the state of Florida. Tarpon frequently gather in the holes and sometimes stack due to their numbers. Exactly why they collect in the pass is still unknown, and speculation is wide in theory and varied in nature.

Yet while many other tarpon fisheries throughout the U.S. are now all but barren, the stock in Boca Grande and Charlotte Harbor continue to proliferate, a phenomenon the surrounding communities seek to preserve through education and conservation.

The Silver Kings

The lure of “boating” a tarpon—hooking and reeling the fish to the boat to release—is understandably on many anglers’ bucket list of accomplishments. In fishing tournaments, catching a tarpon, snook, seatrout, and redfish in one day is classified as a “grand slam.” Tarpon is widely considered to be the most difficult. Winning top prize is highly sought after in the numerous tarpon tournaments, most of which are held in May and June.

Tarpon are also called silver king, sabalo, silverfish, or poons. An adult tarpon can live to 55 years and weigh up to 150 lbs., although the tarpon record with the International Game Fish Association (igfa.org) is an astounding 283 lbs. 4 ounces. There’s no doubt that the biggest draw of tarpon fishing is the explosive fight that ensues once they’re hooked. In an attempt to free or break the hook holding them hostage, they repeatedly leap into the air writhing with all their strength, then dive to the bottom before resurfacing to leap again.

Even for experienced anglers and owners of fishing boats, it’s vitally important to know how to boat and fish in the Boca Grande Pass. Fishing captains in this area know the pass’s landscape, its currents, each other’s boats, and each other. They use established boating and fishing methods, and newcomers must adhere in order to ensure a safe and productive fishing experience for all. Even if you own a well-equipped fishing boat, a better option is to hire one of the many local charter captains; your marina can provide a recommendation.

Come on Inn

Though tarpon fishing is certainly exhilarating, it can also be exhausting. For cruisers who prefer swimming pools to fishing “poons,” all things restful and charming can be found at The Gasparilla Inn & Club, a classic and historic resort known for its endearing hospitality.

The original small hotel was built in 1911 before it was expanded and renamed The Gasparilla Inn. Soon after its reopening in 1913, affluent guests from the Northeast arrived having learned of the legendary fishing. News of The Inn spread so quickly that by 1915, plans were made to double its size, with budgeting for servants quarters and elegant hotel furnishings brought in from Boston. The Inn continued to grow in popularity and accommodated clientele such as J.P. Morgan, Henry DuPont and other noteworthy guests. Prior to the construction of the Boca Grande causeway in 1958, guests arrived by train or boats.

Today, The Gasparilla Inn & Club offers much more than a clean room and soft bed after a day of fishing. Far beyond its humble beginnings, the resort now offers 163 guest accommodations including suites, cottages, villas, and even larger properties. The grand resort is known for its “civilized” charm, so pay attention to the dress code, especially in the evenings and for dinner during the social season. If all you need in the morning is coffee and the daily paper, it’s complimentary in The Living Room, as well as afternoon tea and sweet treats in season. For those with a heartier appetite, The Inn’s Dining Room offers full breakfast daily and full dinner menu. Just down the block, enjoy the talented chef’s specials at The Pink Elephant Restaurant.

Golfers can enjoy a Pete Dye-designed course at The Golf Club, with practice facilities, pro shop and lessons with PGA pros. The Tennis Club offers seven Har-Tru tennis courts, pro shop and lessons. Take in a yoga class or work out in the fitness area followed by a steam or spa treatment. Stroll on the private beach or sit poolside at the Beach Club, and while you’re there arrange for a golf cart to explore the island or a bicycle if you don’t carry one on your boat. The paved bicycle path was formerly an abandoned railroad bed, which one of The Inn’s former owners and his brother acquired in the early 1980s by trading it for waterfront property.

Explore More

First, stop by the Johann Fust Community Library, which is a pretty pink building on 10th Street that looks more like a home than a library. In addition to books, magazines, DVDs, music, and a children’s area, there’s a lovely garden in the back with an open-air reading area and beguiling shell collection. It’s much more than a library and serves as a cultural center offering a variety of authors, speakers, and musical events during the social season.

Explore the neighborhoods in the downtown area and the old-Florida architecture, and treat yourself to a latte and sweet at The Inn Bakery. There are a number of quaint shops downtown to explore—no chain stores here—most of which close at 5 PM. Then stop at Whiddon’s Marina & Maritime Museum on your way to the south end of the island to explore the state park and the lighthouse museum at Boca Grande Pass; the museum closes at 4 PM. After dinner, explore The Pelican Room at The Inn.

Don’t wait until the last minute to plan your visit to The Gasparilla Inn. Reservations for The Gasparilla Inn fill up quickly for the social season and special event weekends, and it closes for several months offseason for renovation and upkeep.

The Inn’s owners—including those currently who are involved in all décor selection—invest an extraordinary amount of attention on all properties. More than 325 seasonal employees continue the tradition of hospitality that began more than a century ago, traditions that have been passed on to generations of owners and guests. Whether you fish for tarpon, golf for birdies or just lie poolside, time spent on Gasparilla Island lets you be part of its history—and its enduring legacy.

Resources for Gasparilla Island

The Inn Marina
891 8th Street East • (941) 964-4620
the-gasparilla-inn.com/activities/marina/

Boca Grande Marina
220 Harbor Drive • (941) 964-2100
bocagrandemarina.net
 – 2 restaurants, laundry, showers, free Wi-Fi, marina store, golf cart rental

The Gasparilla Inn & Resort
500 Palm Avenue • (941) 964-4576
gasparillainn.com

The Innlet Motel
1251 12th Street East • (941) 964-4600
theinnlet.com
– Outlet Restaurant, boat ramp and slips for guests; close to The Inn Marina

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating Magazine October 2016

Cruising with Grandparents is the best gift of all

Grandparents discover the best Christmas gift
gives memories that last a lifetime.

With Christmas just around the corner, most grandparents’ thoughts happily turn to family gatherings, parties and presents piled under the Christmas tree. Topping the gift list are the grandchildren and what to buy for them. As they grew older, it became increasingly challenging to sort through all the commercialization and “stuff” clogging store shelves and littering the Internet. Do they really need another electronic device, game, doll, or cute dress? Is there such a gift we can give our grandchildren that is meaningful and will stand the test of time, is for all ages and limited only by one’s imagination, and keeps on giving?

Those were the questions we asked ourselves eight years ago and also posed to several of our friends and fellow yacht club members. We suggested that, instead of giving meaningless games or toys that end up in the back of our grandchildren’s closets, we organize a group cruising itinerary exclusively for and with our grandchildren. There would be only one rule: no parents allowed. The idea was a hit, the “Grandkid Cruise” was launched the next summer after the end of the school term and it’s been going on ever since.

Like swallows to Capistrano, the grandkids fly in from Atlanta, San Francisco, Hampton Bays, Roxbury, and Memphis. Casting off from our respective docks in Stuart, Florida, the “Grandkid Cruise” heads to open waters for a two-week summer adventure. The itinerary includes many ports of call from which to choose: Fort Lauderdale, Coconut Grove, Miami Beach, the Florida Keys, and The Bahamas. After selecting a destination, we collectively plan throughout the year tailoring our cruise to provide entertainment, education, new skills, and a good dose of social and mannerly instructions. (One of the most important duties of grandparents, after all, is to aid in the civilization of their grandchildren since parents aren’t always consistent in this department.) The cruise offers an opportunity to form stronger bonds away from home turf where parental input can confuse and aggravate familial dynamics. Our boats—Check Six, Cats in the Hatt, Final Approach, Tartan, and Mad Hatter—provide a neutral zone where mom and dad’s input is off the grid.

The number of participating boats is limited because of scarce marina space and restaurant capacity. Many restaurants cannot handle a group of approximately 15 people, especially in The Bahamas. Restaurants are an important component of these cruises as the stage for reinforcing table manners and social skills—how to properly sit at the table, napkins in lap, no running around, and absolutely no chewing with mouths open. Cell phones are strictly prohibited, allowing for the flow of conversation in uninterrupted rhythms.

The favorite destination of all is Old Bahama Bay at West End, a small marina that most boats stop over when crossing the Gulf Stream from Florida before pressing on to other ports. It is especially wellappointed for water sports, beach and sun. All day the kids jump in the pool, race to the beach, paddleboard, sail, snorkel, and jump back in the pool again. They never tire of this itinerary. In the evening, we gather at a host boat for cocktails and dinner, then visit with the other cruisers lining the docks, exchanging pleasantries and sometimes running into them again at another port. It’s a small but very friendly world among cruisers.

In the early cruise years, the grandkids’ ages ranged from 5 to 12. Amazingly, they all got along with the eldest watching out for the youngest and organizing the flow of activities from docks to beaches. They became a mob of laughing, sun-kissed children.

One of our first destinations was Bimini Bay where we anchored up in Honeymoon Hole and taught the kids to snorkel. The fish were numerous and bold brushing against their legs, with screams of surprise and delight erupting from the girls. There was a nearby sunken wreck calling for exploration. And there was always a visit to the Hemingway Bar to tell about Ernest Hemingway and his love of fishing and the islands. I bought The Old Man and the Sea for my girls that summer.

We let them drive our boats and explain how the instruments and gauges work. When the weather turns foul, there are lessons on that as well. They learn how to throw lines—not ropes—to the dockhands and about following seas and currents. We instill a healthy respect for the ocean and its capabilities—delightful one day and unforgiving the next. After the cruise, I download all the pictures and professionally print a glossy memory album capturing their favorite moments and poses.

Our grandkids are older now, and they’re moving on to college and life’s challenges. Our small fleet has winnowed and we know the end of the “Grandkid Cruise” is not far off, but we don’t despair. We know that we have fulfilled our roles and helped to instill knowledge and an awareness of the world around them. Best of all, we have cemented the strongest of bonds and the creation of wonderful memories that will last all of our lives.

Cher Foth is a member of the Florida Writers Association and author of The Kidnapping of Inda Jackson available in print and digital. cherfoth.com 

— Words and photos by Cher Foth, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016

 

St. Croix Boat Parade

Lighted boat parades happen throughout the Caribbean in December. One of the most exciting is the St. Croix Christmas Boat Parade held in the U.S.V.I. on December 10th.

You won’t want to miss this Caribbean boat parade.
Live-aboards, visiting cruisers, charterers, and locals on powerboats, sailing yachts or water toys—even stand-up paddleboards—are all invited to enter for free. The parade starts at 6PM, and over 30 watercraft launch on a route that twice circles the safe, protected waters of Christiansted Harbor. If you’re on board, get ready to see a cheering crowd lining the Christiansted Boardwalk as well as at Protestant Cay. If you’re on shore, these two locations are the best spots for viewing. The parade is so popular it’s even been showcased on the Travel Channel. It’s no wonder, since tropical twists have included Santas in green and red boardshorts, fire dancers and local reggae artists singing the territory’s customary carols. A huge fireworks display after the parade is followed by live music, vendors lining the town’s streets and shops open late for holiday shopping. christmasparadestcroix.com

Everyone on St. Croix dresses up for the Christmas parade…even paddleboarders! Photo credit: Ellen Sanpere

Ring out the old year in the B.V.I.
Rub shoulders with celebrities and bid farewell to the Old Year on December 31st on Jost Van Dyke in the B.V.I. Here, seventh-generation native and calypsonian, Sir Philicianno “Foxy” Callwood, who was knighted by the Queen of England in 2009 for his contributions to tourism and the environment, puts on a party of global fame at his Foxy’s Tamarind Bar in Great Harbour. In fact, the New York Times listed Foxy’s as one of the best places to ring in the millennium back in 1999. Yet Great Harbour, on this 3.5-square-mile island, is a world away from other favorite New Year’s destinations like New York City’s Times Square. Access is by boat only, whether you bring your own, charter or take the ferry. Attire is barefoot and bathing suits, and sleeping on the beach until sunup is the norm. This year, the party starts on Friday, December 30th and lasts until Sunday, January 1st, with live bands, a pig roast and more. Admission is free. The only costs are food and drinks at Foxy’s or one of the other half dozen open-air bars that line the harbor. If you’re serious about partying with the rich and famous, book a table at Foxy’s Tamarind Bar’s Upper Crust restaurant on the second floor. Here, the VIP party includes a multi-course dinner, champagne, hats, noisemakers, and terrific views for $500 per person. foxysbar.com/old-years-celebration; bvitourism.com/jost-van-dyke.

New Year’s potluck in Trinidad
The Seven Seas Cruising Association’s (SSCA) first event of 2017 is on January 1st. This “gam,” or what the SSCA calls a “friendly interchange, especially between sailors or seafarers,” is a potluck held at the Trinidad & Tobago Yachting Association’s headquarters in Chaguaramas. SSCA Cruising Station host Jesse James and his wife Sharon, who operate Members Only Maxi Taxi Service, offer a free shuttle from local marinas to the gam. It’s a great event and an excellent opportunity for sailors new to the Caribbean to tap into the collected wealth of attendees’ cruising experiences in the region. ssca.org; membersonlymaxitaxi.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016

Southern Hospitality for Cruisers

Seasonal cruisers make their way toward warmer weather late in November, and many will arrive in the Southeast by Thanksgiving, this year on November 24th. If you’ll be cruising on Thanksgiving, you’re in luck! 

Many communities offer a Thanksgiving dinner or organized potluck, and transient cruisers can gather together in a warm and inviting setting. The following four are just a few of the locations holding community celebrations.

Beaufort, North Carolina: Ann Street United Methodist Church hosts one of the most popular Thanksgiving dinners in the South. It’s located at 417 Ann Street, only two blocks away from the Beaufort Town Docks. The church provides turkey along with other main features, while cruisers are welcome to bring a side dish. Dinner is served from 12:00PM until 2:00PM.

Port Royal, South Carolina: The Port Royal Landing Marina begins their holiday event the night before Thanksgiving. Cruisers are invited to bring a beverage and stop by while the turkeys are smoking. The Thanksgiving Day meal will be served at 1:00PM—diners need only bring a side dish. The marina is located at mile marker 539 on the ICW.

St. Marys, Georgia: Riverview Hotel hosts a cruiser’s potluck dinner and provides the turkey; cruisers contribute side dishes. Dinner begins at 1:00PM at this historic waterfront hotel on 105 Osborne Street. Docking is available at Lang’s Marina, St. Mary’s Docks or anchoring in the river nearby.

Vero Beach, Florida: The Vero Beach City Marina will once again hold its annual Thanksgiving dinner at the River House adjacent to the marina. Turkeys are donated and prepared by members of the community, Cruisers Living on Dirt, that have settled in the area. Tie up the boat, bring a side dish and enjoy some fellowship with this lively bunch. Dinner will be served at 2:00PM.

Waterfront improvement
There are more reasons for cruisers to visit Fort Pierce, Florida’s renovated waterfront, especially after the successful rebuilding of the City Marina. Just in time for the November 11th Veterans Day holiday, Fort Pierce unveils a multi-million dollar renovation of Veterans Memorial Park. It will occupy eight acres of prime riverfront property. The new Veterans Memorial Park features covered pavilions and a palm tree-lined pond. The park is also home to the Fort Pierce Yacht Club, Liberty Garden, Manatee Center, and the Seven Gables House Visitors Center.

As nice as the new park amenities will be, the real beauty is in the park’s environmental benefits. According to the City Manager’s office, the renovation will prevent over 1,000 lbs. of pollutants and debris from entering the adjacent Indian River Lagoon annually. The new park layout channels surface water through a series of specially designed ponds and swales, which traps debris, nutrients and heavy metals, allowing cleaner water to continue on to the lagoon and river.

PGA Classic
If where you keep your golf clubs on board is as important as where you keep your anchor, you won’t want to miss this favorite annual PGA tournament. The tournament will be played at the Sea Island Golf Club on Sea Island, Georgia, from November 14-20. This popular event has raised more than $4.8 million for a variety of children’s and family charities. Tickets are available at rsmclassic.com.

Southport 33 LX

The solid ride of the Southport 33 LX is now available with all of the features and creature comforts of a megayacht tender. The new Southport 33 LX (32’6″ LOA, 10’8″ beam) features a wraparound forward seating area for a comfortable lounge space. This new arrangement features more tender-like amenities, including extra refrigeration, a microwave, coffeemaker, food and beverage storage, and preparation areas.

The aft cockpit, a space once reserved for fishing, now becomes a far more inviting place to entertain and relax. With the addition of an L-shaped wraparound lounge in the aft port corner and wet bar with refrigerator and bottle and glass storage in the leaning post, the aft cockpit rivals the front of the boat for comfort and social amenities. southportboats.com

Azimut Verve 40

The Azimut Verve 40 (40′ LOA, 12’6″ beam) is a hybrid—a blend of a traditional walkaround center console and day cruiser. The Azimut Verve 40 has a planing hull and is powered by triple 350-hp Mercury Verado outboards for a cruising speed of 37 knots and a top speed of 45 knots. Below, her Canaletto walnut interior includes a sleeping cabin with lockable sliding door, a dinette that converts to a queen-size berth, and a galley with a two-burner electric range, refrigerator, and convection oven. Up top, the forward sunpad, the aft-facing bow seating or the L-shaped settee in the cockpit offer reclining options. A fold-down gunwale door to port enables impromptu swims off the back of the boat. azimutyachts.com

Formula 430 Super Sport Crossover

The new Formula 430 Super Sport Crossover (43′ LOA, 12′ beam) offers incredible versatility with 40 linear feet of cockpit space and a cabin that includes a convertible dinette/sleeping berth, aft stateroom, full galley, and a stand-up head compartment. A fiberglass hardtop with a motorized glass sunroof protects the cockpit’s triple command seating. The helm features the latest in electronic goodies from Raymarine, Mercury DTS with SmartCraft VesselView, and electronic shift and throttle for the quad Mercury 300 Verado outboard motors.

Buyers can upgrade to quad Mercury 350 Verados. Above deck an outdoor kitchen with a Corian countertop, fiberglass molded sink, a bank of drawers to store utensils, and a stainless-steel Isotherm pullout fridge make entertaining a breeze on the 430 SSC. Don’t miss the Formula 430 Super Sport Crossover at FLIBS.
formulaboats.com

Bruckmann Abaco 40

They don’t come much more traditional—or much better looking—than the Bruckmann Abaco 40, a single-diesel, straightforward, solid Downeast boat with elegant fit and finish. Built by Bruckmann Yachts near Toronto, Canada, and designed by Mark Ellis, the Abaco 40 is a single-stateroom cruiser with a Herreshoff interior and flowing lines that turns heads anywhere she goes. From the cockpit, you enter the fully enclosed salon/helm deck through two sliding doors.

Bruckmann is a traditional sailboat builder, and the sailing lineage shows in the Abaco 40’s simplicity. The salon has two bench-type settees facing each other with a table in the middle—they convert to berths if needed. Matching Stidd helm and passenger seats are forward, and large windows provide excellent visibility all around. All the wood is exquisitely joined mahogany. There are no frills here, just seven coats of varnish. Down three steps a U-shaped galley is to port, with a large head and shower to starboard. A centerline berth is forward. Ellis designed the hull with fairly flat aft sections and broad chine flats for stability. A sizable skeg and rudder protect the single prop and help with tracking. Bow and stern thrusters are optional. A 670-hp Cummins produces a cruising speed of 24 knots and a top speed of about 28 knots.

bruckmannyachts.com

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