Chartering in Saint Lucia

Chartering in Saint Lucia

Chartering in Saint Lucia means you don’t have to be a sailor to enjoy this corner of paradise.

Asking someone to name five reasons to start chartering in Saint Lucia is like asking them to give five reasons they like dessert. I mean, what’s not to like? That said, if you’re looking for points why to choose this jewel over other places in the Caribbean, here are a few that will have you packing your bags in a hurry. Best of all, the Moorings/Sunsail base offers a selection of yachts that includes large new powercats which are becoming the fastest growing segment of charter fleets around the world.

The Practicalities

Because rum drinks and sunsets aren’t all there is to cruising, it’s best to check on the practicalities of your destination prior to departure. Consider things like the base facilities, provisioning, and selection of available yachts. IGY’s Rodney Bay Marina is one of the most attractive, safe, modern, and friendly marinas in the Caribbean. Originally constructed in 1985, this 220-slip facility offers onsite cafés, gift shop, pool, and showers. Every December, the marina hosts the finish of the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers that attracts more than 250 boats and 1,200 people who have just crossed the Atlantic and are ready for a little pampering. You won’t be roughing it here, either.

Provisioning is easy with staples and delicacies available in every grocery store—there’s a large one in Gros Islet. We particularly enjoyed our time sampling the excellent restaurants of Gros Islet as well. Strolling along Reduit Beach looking for an appealing eatery, we couldn’t resist popping into the St. Lucia Yacht Club for a rum punch and the requisite hat.

Any Time’s a Good Time

Choosing the ideal time to charter is simple with St. Lucia, which is south of the typical hurricane belt. That’s not to say there is no hurricane season here; it’s just that St. Lucia is less likely to be impacted than the Leeward Islands. Our last trip that took place in the second half of October was without incident.

The weather is delightful year-round. From December to May, temperatures range from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit, and from June to November you can expect 75 to 95
degrees. There will be less rain in the winter, but you’ll likely experience rougher seas while Chartering in Saint Lucia. In the summertime, the ocean lays flatter and the trade winds are milder, typically around 10 knots rather than 25 knots. In other words, you can consider a charter for nearly any time of year. The payoff is that you can take advantage of shoulder seasons that offer not only lower rates, but also fewer tourists to compete with for anchorage space and restaurant times.

Stunning Vistas, Stellar Cuisine

The mere mention of St. Lucia evokes an image of the stunning Pitons, the twin conical peaks (volcanic plugs, actually) that are the iconic landmarks of this lush island. The town of Soufrière just below them is chock-full of colorful, camera-loving Creole buildings with gingerbread trim and New Orleans-style balconies. Anchor in Piton Bay to visit the village, or rent a car and drive the entire island for remarkable views and delicious cuisine that’s the best mix of French, Caribbean and Creole you will find anywhere. You’ll never want to cook on the boat.

We braved driving on the “wrong” side of the car—shifting with the left hand—and stopped off at Ladera Resort, a picturesque hotel built into the side of a mountain that overlooks the Pitons and serves inventive (if pricey) delicacies. Giant ferns and wild orchids greeted us at every stop around the island and although we ran out of time, I’m definitely returning to hike Soufrière, the extinct volcano that you can drive a rental car into. (Yes, all volcanoes in the Caribbean seem to be named Soufrière.) St. Lucia is the “honeymooners’ island,” and many people visit for strictly land-based vacations. Chartering offers an experience on both land and sea, taking paradise up a notch.

History Buffs Rejoice

Like most Caribbean islands, St. Lucia survived skirmishes between the French and English on numerous occasions. For a glimpse of this, we visited Pigeon Island, a 44-acre national landmark that is the site of the ruins of Fort Rodney. The fort was built in 1778 and named for Admiral George Brydges Rodney. In its time, the fort offered strategic views of Martinique to the north and provided the British with a peek at what the French were up to. The views of Gros Islet and the harbor below to the south are worth the climb to the top where cannons still point at the horizon, sentinels of days gone by.

Today, the site is a park with a lovely beach where one enterprising young woman cruises the shallows with her portable bar. She loads up a brightly decorated panga with fresh fruit and gallons of rum and then walks in the waist-deep water pulling the barge behind her, stopping to serve fruity cocktails to beachgoers as they lounge in the warm waves— like a St. Lucia version of UberEats.

The Perfect Jump Off Point

When chartering in Saint Lucia, you can spend an entire week along the western coastline, stopping off to snorkel at Anse Cochon or tucking into Marigot Bay with its red-topped homes and fun stores. But one of the glorious reasons to charter a powercat from St. Lucia is that you can go north to Martinique or south to St. Vincent and the Grenadines on a one-week charter and never feel rushed. (If you visit the Grenadines or Martinique, you’ll need to check in/out with St. Lucia’s Customs & Excise Department.)

Traveling at a cruising speed of 15 knots, you’ll reach Martinique’s Grand Anse d’Arlet in just three hours and enjoy bars, restaurants, and a postcard-worthy beach. Or run south
along the length of St. Vincent and tuck into Admiralty Bay on Bequia in the Grenadines in less than six hours. Catch a mooring in the bay and order up fresh baguettes to arrive via
the “bread man” the next morning. This lovely baker rows around the harbor every day at 6 AM to deliver still-warm loaves and croissants to early risers.

Turtle, Turtle

Visit the turtle sanctuary here and stroll along Belmont Walkway in search of the perfect lunch stop. Then cast off for the Tobago Cays, desert islets manned by “boat boys” who will arrange a fantastic beach barbeque on request. This is a Robinson Crusoe fantasyland that served as a backdrop for the movie Pirates of the Caribbean. Lounging on the flybridge with a chilled glass of anything, you’re bound to see turtle heads popping up all around.

Chartering in Saint Lucia means so much more than just one island, especially on a powercat, so why limit your choices? Cruise near or far and enjoy the best of the Windward Isles. I know I’ll be back for more sun, beaches, Creole cuisine, and history. After all, when dessert is as good as the best chocolate you’ve ever had, you go back for seconds.

Cruiser Resources

CURRENCY
Eastern Caribbean Dollar
(U.S. dollar widely accepted)

AIRPORT
Hewanorra International Airport (UVF)
hewanorrainternationalairport.com

MARINAS
IGY-Rodney Bay Marina, Castries
1-758-458-4892
rbm@igymarinas.com
VHF channel 16
igy-rodneybay.com
Customs/Immigration, provisioning, laundry, car rental, bank, post office, fuel, market

The Landings Resort & Spa Marina, Gros Islet
1-844-886-3762
landingsstlucia.com/marina 

By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating April 2018

Two Sailors, One Leopard 43 Powercat

A couple of diehard sailors cross to the dark side only to discover that it’s not so dark after all.

In a way, it was a double conversion. Not only were we blow-boaters on a stinkpot, but one with two hulls at that. It was going to take some getting used to, all this space and speed and simplicity. Welcoming the chance to review a 2016 model power catamaran, we chartered a Moorings 433—a Leopard 43 with three cabins. We picked up our boat at The Moorings charter base in Tortola, quite possibly the busiest in the world. Our brand-new owner’s version was named Rubis (French for ruby), and she was already hinting at her gemlike qualities.

Eager to head into the Sir Francis Drake Channel, we put the twin Yanmar 220-hp diesels to work and topped out at 20 knots. (The Moorings keeps the engines on their charter fleet governed down to 80 percent.) We settled into a cruising speed of 14 knots that still left us with more than half of our original fuel level at the end of the charter. Besides the fuel-sipping engines, part of this catamaran’s efficiency comes from the stepped hulls. They are narrow at the waterline for better hydrodynamics but flare out with a hard chine to create interior volume for the cabins. Unlike monohulls, cats aren’t dragging a heavy keel through the water and can operate with smaller engines. We found our diesel engines under the aft bunks and noticed they were surprisingly quiet and vibration-free.

That first night we experienced one of the greatest benefits of a cat: no rolling at anchor. A cat may wobble in a rough bay but it won’t roll, so flopper-stoppers, gyroscopes, stabilizing fins, and sleepless nights are a distant memory.

The next morning, Rubis schooled us on her many on-deck benefits. Her bow was wide and the hard deck (no trampoline) spanned her entire beam. Picking up a mooring was easy; I could move quickly from side-to-side and brace my hips on the stainless steel railing. I then reached down to work the lines on the cleats with both hands. Once done on the foredeck, I stepped through the full-sized forward door into the salon starting what was going to be our normal traffic pattern around the boat. While open, the door blasted air through the interior and cooled it down much faster than any port or hatch ever could.

Catamarans offer extensive exterior spaces, and people congregate mostly in the cockpit. But the flybridge became our favorite spot when driving, sunning, dining, or watching sunsets. Here, a galley module had a Kenyon electric grill and sink. An option on the Leopard 43 is to add a refrigerator or an icemaker, so the party never has to leave the flybridge. All the way forward was a double sunpad suspended over the forward cockpit. With a railing all around, it was a comfortable and safe place to lounge even when under way.

To starboard was the helm that included a double bench seat and an angled dash with two Raymarine MFDs. The autopilot was mounted behind the wheel and the Fusion stereo head was to the side. A better layout of electronics would have helped the driver and her companion to have easier access to all equipment, including the VHF.

It was best to leave the wheel centered and untouched during slow speed maneuvers like docking and anchoring. Just a light touch, usually with one engine at a time, made Rubis dance; no side thrusters or pod drives were needed. With four-bladed props set 20 feet apart, the boat was ultra responsive and absolutely the easiest I’ve ever driven.

Rubis was so much fun to handle that when we picked up a mooring, we argued as to who got to drive. Often we dropped a mooring right after picking it up in favor of one a few feet over in case the breeze was better. We dropped three times in front of Saba Rock at the Bitter End Yacht Club just because we could.

This 43-foot catamaran felt more like a 52-foot monohull. To maximize the spacious feel, Leopard has flipped the salon layout, with the dinette facing forward and up against the cockpit settee. Open the door and windows between the two to create one large living room. The L-shaped galley in the starboard corner faces forward, and I liked looking ahead when cooking under way. To port was a small navigation desk that we used primarily to store cruising guides. It was also the place for charging phones and cameras since there were four USB ports on the bulkhead.

The master stateroom took up the entire starboard hull. A queen-sized bed aft and a large head forward were separated by a vanity, a chest of drawers and two enormous lockers. I could live aboard this boat without having to give away too many clothes. Two cabins in the port hull shared a head and stall shower. (Something that needed a bit of re-thinking were the head light switches that were not in the heads but rather in the corridors outside.)

Boats are sets of tradeoffs, but I found few things to complain about on the Moorings 433. Being nitpicky, however, I would liked to have had a larger electric winch for the dinghy davit that kept tripping the breaker. The windlass, too, was undersized and tended to spin out. Finally, the boarding ladder on the port transom had a challenging angle and little in the way of handholds on top. But that’s the extent of the complaint list, which is much shorter than just about every other boat I’ve seen.

The B.V.I. are permeated with sailing charter boats. However, power cats are quickly gaining ground. The distances are short and the destinations are plentiful so it’s the perfect place for a powerboat and an even better one for a cat. There was very little wind on our first two days of the trip, and we flew past the sailboats on our way to two and three fun anchorages in a day. We sped to the Baths for an early morning swim, then we SUPed around Sandy Cay near Jost Van Dyke followed by snorkeling at the Indians near Norman Island. We finished up with Painkillers at the Last Resort in Trellis Bay. Did we need to circumnavigate Tortola in a day? No, but we easily could have. One day we even went back for more Painkillers—the best I’ve ever tasted.

The builder, Robertson and Caine, expects to build 30 of these Leopard models per year in South Africa. Some will go to The Moorings since they offer power charters in a dozen locations from the Caribbean to Europe to the Seychelles.

Coming from a world of monohull sailboats, we felt a little guilty about how much we enjoyed our power cat and wondered how we could ever go back to half a boat. This was just too easy, too speedy and way too comfortable. We allowed ourselves to voice the reality. Our boat test was really a try-before-you-buy experiment that succeeded. There, we said it. We’re out in the open now and have fully embraced the dark side, a side with plenty of power and two hulls. Though we fought it for years, we are, in every sense of the word, converts.

—By Zuzana Prochazka, Southern Boating Magazine March 2017

SPECIFICATIONS
LOA: 42′ 8″
Beam: 22′ 1″
Draft: 3′ 1″
Displacement (light): 25,794 lbs.
Fuel/Water: 264/212 U.S. gals.
MSRP (base): $525,000 (as tested)

CONTACT
The Moorings
(888) 952-8420
moorings.com 

Charters For Everyone

Regardless of your budget or lifestyle, there’s a boat charter ideally suited for you.

Prior to the year 2000, I had the impression that boat charters were of two distinct varieties:

1. Crewed luxury megayachts that only the uber wealthy could afford, or

2. Single-hulled sailboats for experienced yachtsmen qualified to plot a course using only the stars and a compass and who crossed the Atlantic at least once.

I qualified in neither category, but now after two charter trips to the British Virgin Islands (B.V.I.)—the first in 2000 onboard a crewed sailing catamaran with two other couples and the second in 2012 on a power cat courtesy of The Moorings—I’m convinced that just about anyone not only can, but should charter. With over 70 percent of the earth’s surface covered by oceans, our planet’s cruising grounds simply beg for exploration. Most boat owners, however, have neither the range nor the vacation time to reach them. Now, with myriad charter companies and itinerary options available—whether your vacation time and budget are limited or large, or you’ve been cruising for decades or just days—chartering is for everyone.

For those who might feel more comfortable in U.S. waters for their maiden charter, Southwest Florida Yachts, based at Tarpon Point Marina on the Caloosahatchee River in Fort Myers, Florida offers a three-day Basic Powerboating course to brush up on boating skills while at the same time become familiar with your charter boat. A four- or five-day charter is enough time to get your feet wet, explore Sanibel and Captiva Islands, or even venture to Key West. Staying on the hook or mooring balls will make the trip more affordable, but if you start missing land, there are plenty of marinas to duck into, and reservations are easily made since you’re in cell phone range.

On our first charter to the B.V.I. in 2000, even though we were all knowledgeable boat owners and cruised frequently, we opted for an owner-crewed sailing catamaran. Our boat’s owners were well acquainted with all the area had to offer and customized our charter according to our interests: frequent snorkeling, at least one SCUBA dive to the Rhone and several shore excursions. We found the company online through a small, private charter website, but since then, numerous charter companies have established base operations throughout The Bahamas and Caribbean and offer a wide range of boats and options. From most U.S. airports, two flights will get you to your charter operator’s base location. The Moorings based on Tortola has more than 400 charter boats, both sail and power in a variety of sizes and layouts, including the 393 power cat we used with one other couple in 2012 for our first bareboat experience. Prior to boarding our boat, a detailed presentation provided pertinent information and ample opportunity for getting our questions answered. The company assembled all the equipment and information in advance, including prepaid cruising permits, a mandatory cell phone preprogrammed with all the pertinent contacts, and water toys such as a kayak and paddleboard. Having been to the area previously, we knew that line-of-sight navigation was one of the benefits to chartering in the B.V.I., and that the close proximity of islands ensures a host of options for ample entertainment, mooring or snorkeling options. (Advice: When you charter in the B.V.I., save time by flying to Tortola rather than St. Thomas. The flight will cost more, but you’ll save time and money on the hotel and ferry.)

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If you’re a bit on the frugal side, it’s always cheaper to stay on the hook or pick up a mooring ball in the B.V.I., but if you’re not as concerned with pinching pennies on your charter or need to stretch your sea legs, many resorts extend their amenities to marina guests, so it pays to reserve at least one night at their marina for a bit—or a bevy—of pampering. Peter Island Resort & Spa’s idyllic setting on 1,800 acres offers a great deal more than pampering, however, with paved walkways for hikes, a gourmet mountaintop sunset experience, and acclaimed spa, all of which are topped off with fabulous views in nearly every direction. (peterisland.com) If there’s room in your budget for more than one indulgence, save at least one more night for Scrub Island Resort (scrubisland.com), which is conveniently situated close to Tortola’s airport on Beef Island—the resort has an airport water shuttle service. The small island provides a more intimate, relaxed setting than some of the busier islands in the B.V.I., and if you’ve budgeted for a spa visit, save it for Scrub Island, where I had the best massage of my life by Spa Director Emily Lancaster in a spa-cottage by the sea with its own private outdoor mini-pool. If romance is what you’re after, in addition to the two-tiered pool overlooking the marina—with a fun slide we just had to try—a smaller more private pool setting on the other side of the small island is perfect for intimate gatherings and provides an unrestricted island view at ocean’s edge.

For some, the love of bareboat charters has become an annual tradition. Los Angeles-based well-known film producer Alan J. Levi and his wife of 25 years, actress Sondra “Sam” Currie—she plays Zach Galifianakis’ mother in The Hangover film series—have chartered boats for more than two decades. A few years ago they contacted Southern Boating for advice having read an article about chartering in Europe (November 2010 issue) and subsequently planned their own charter vacation à la the canals and rivers surrounding Venice, Italy. “This year our boating experience was totally different than any other in the past 23 years. First, boating down to the Venice Lagoon puts you in ‘open water’ for much of the trip—not just a narrow canal or river,” says Levi, whose film credits include numerous episodes in the Magnum, P.I., Columbo and NCIS television series. “It’s not for the ‘first-timer’, for the navigation in the open water between markers—which jut out of the lagoon—is not anything you might want to venture into if you don’t have a bit of boating experience.”

The Hollywood couple chartered from Le Boat’s Casale, Italy location about 21 miles north of Venice and describes the charter operation there as “quite well equipped, good staff and plenty of boats.” One of the drawbacks, however, is the absence of provisioning services, which Levi said was easily remedied by cruising 10 minutes north to the town of Casier, where two small grocery stores close by provide enough to get the trip started. (After all, what more does one need besides bread and water, cheese and Italian wine?)

The rest of their loosely-planned itinerary included a stopover on the island of Burano, which turned into a three-day visit in order to sample the renowned restaurants and lace shops. After a four-day stop in Venice—which Levi says will guarantee you at least a pound per day added to your waistline—they were treated to the most surprising excursion of their charter at the little fishing village of Chioggia—another not-to-be- missed one-day stop that stretched to four. “There are perhaps 200-250 large fishing boats tied up on both sides of the village, and they depart about 4:30 or 5:00 each morning for the open Adriatic, returning about 7:30 or so with boatloads of fresh catch,” recounts Levi and adds that the fleet serves the entire region with daily fresh fish, including several dozen fish markets in the area. “We tied up our boat in one of the four ‘Reserved for Le Boat’ slots in the marina, right next to a charming little trattoria, which on our first night held a live jazz night from their open boat tied up right next to ours. Between the absolutely marvelous jazz quintet, the 40 or so outdoor tables with over 100 people eating and enjoying the music right there within waving distance, and the owner of the trattoria who asked if he could bring our dinner up to the top deck of our boat for us to enjoy from that vantage point, it was a truly unforgettable experience. And the wine was as fine as the evening!”

The only problem Levi encountered during their entire trip was unrelated to their boat or boating skills. “Because of the extreme drought in Italy (we saw perhaps 30 or more cornfields that were totally burnt out—brown—with not an ear of corn to harvest), the canal and river were both so low with water, that we never make it to our destinations by boat. The waterways were closed,” Levi recalls. Instead, they stopped in a fun town and took a 45-minute bus ride into the towns they wanted to see. Although others accomplished the trip in two weeks or less, Levi chartered for three weeks, which allowed them the time to leisurely explore and led to a number of unexpected encounters they would have missed on a shorter trip.

Keep in mind that certification in boating proficiency is now required by many countries, including most European nations. Best Boat Club (bestboatclub.com) has partnered with two internationally-recognized organizations—US Sailing and US Powerboating—to provide the certifications needed to charter sail or power boats internationally. The entry-level class, Safe Sail- or Powerboat Handling, is designed for people with zero or very limited boat experience and certifies students to operate boats up to 27′. It also qualifies students for Florida’s Boat Smart certificate. Those who have more boating experience can test out of the entry-level class for a fee, which can be applied to the second of three classes required for international certification. Basic Powerboat Cruising teaches skills for navigating boats 28-32′ for longer periods and includes hands-on coursework on board for learning engine and electrical systems. Finally, Inshore Powerboat Cruising and Night Operation prepares students for multi-day and overnight trips within sight of land and includes an International Proficiency Certificate. While many boating “schools” offer boating classes, Director of Training Derek Edwards says the skills you learn from Best Boat Club offer much more. “Our program is certified by U.S. Powerboat and U.S. Sailing, who are very stringent in their requirements for instructors that goes way beyond what a United States Coast Guard license requires,” says Edwards, who adds there is a common misperception that a U.S. Coast Guard license fulfills requirements for chartering regardless of the location. According to Edwards, in the U.S., only the U.S. Powerboat and Sailing programs qualify for international charters.

For those without the time for or interest in classes, however, luxury crewed charters are always an option and—depending on the size and location of the yacht and number of charter guests sharing expenses—can actually be a surprisingly cost-competitive alternative to higher-end cruise ship vacations. The difference is, of course, that your cruising experience is completely customized. Tahiti and other islands in the South Pacific are becoming more popular for yacht charters since many yacht owners want the opportunity to use their yachts in those waters and are interested in offsetting their expenses. Some even offer charters to Antarctica.

Whether you bareboat, hire a captain and small crew, or charter a luxury yacht, enthusiasts like Alan and “Sam”—along with Southern Boating’s editor, publisher and many others—treasure the memories that charters avail: delightful dining at off-the-beaten-path cafés and diners, chance encounters with new friends both above and below the waterline, and cruising the same waters that famous explorers once did. The perfect charter vacation is waiting for you regardless of your lifestyle, experience or budget. Don’t wait—buy a cruising guide, book a charter, connect with your inner Magellan, and create new memories.

 

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating September 2013

 

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