Warmer waters make for cooler cruising. Southern Boating publishes a U.S. Gulf Coast Regional Report each month to make your Gulf Coast cruising a success. Chock-full of information for everywhere from the panhandle of Florida to the tip of Texas—Southern Boating gives you the lowdown on all events, happenings, marinas, destinations, and more!
YOU MAY HAVE HEARD THE BATTLE CRY, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead!” But do you know who said it, why, where, and when?
The who is Admiral David Farragut. The where is Mobile Bay. The why is more complicated, but it has to do with one of the most significant confrontations in the
American Civil War. Farragut was the naval officer who in 1864 bravely led his union fleet
through a barrage of cannon fire blasting from the two forts guarding the entrance to the bay. But torpedoes in 1864? It turns out that in those days, the word torpedo referred to an underwater, explosive mine. The Confederates planted mines across the entrance to Mobile Bay to block a Union invasion. Damn those mines then.
On Tuesdays in February, a Civil War historian will guide visitors around the five-sided
Fort Morgan. The subject of the tour and tutorial on February 20th is the “ Battle of Mobile
Bay.” The topic on Tuesday, February 27th is the “Siege of Fort Morgan.”
By car, Fort Morgan is 23 miles west of Gulf Shores on State Highway 180, but from Dauphin Island, it’s just a short hop across the bay (and no mines this time) on your boat or the Mobile Bay Ferry. Boaters have a convenient marina close by, Gulf Shores Yacht Club and Marina.
Red snapper, delicious, but also heavily fished, is the now the focus of an innovative federal and state collaboration.
Since 2018, all five Gulf states manage red snapper fishing for private vessels not just in state waters, but also federal.
NOAA Fisheries has issued Exempted Fishing Permits for each state to set its own private vessel angler season dates, collect landings data, and then close the season if and when its red snapper quota is reached.
Tasty red snapper is one of the most sought-after fish in the Gulf of Mexico, so fisheries managers carefully watch the populations of this deep water reef fish. NOAA Fisheries has set the 2019 red snapper season for recreational charter boats fishing federal waters 12 miles out.
The “For Hire” season starts June 1st and lasts for 62 days. You can only keep two, and they have to be at least 16 inches long. If you want to be in the loop, sign up for text message alerts.
For recreational anglers, individual states manage the red snapper seasons and other regulations for both state and federal waters. Each state is different.
Increasingly vocal pushback, especially from recreational anglers, has led to the award of
an in-depth, $12-million research initiative to accurately determine the abundance of red snapper in U.S. waters of the Gulf of Mexico with a red snapper count.
An independent review panel convened by the Mississippi-Alabama Sea Grant Consortium has picked a team of 21 scientists from universities in all five Gulf states. Their research will be coordinated by Greg Stunz, Marine Biology Professor at Texas A&M-Corpus Christi and a voting member of the Gulf of Mexico Fishery Management Council.
The project has enthusiastic support from the person on top of the federal fisheries management pyramid, Secretary of Commerce Wilbur Ross. It is also supported by Senator Richard Shelby of Alabama who chairs the appropriations subcommittee on Commerce, Justice, Science, and Related Agencies. Shelby said he hoped an accurate red snapper count in the Gulf could be determined “once and for all.”
Anglers will tag red snappers and report numbers and locations of previously-tagged snappers that they catch. Commercial fishing vessels will host observers to count fish brought aboard and their locations. Other on-the-water research tools will include remote-operated vehicles, camera sleds, scuba divers, and acoustics.
So long, Irma. Goodbye Hurricane Harvey. Been nice knowing you. (Well, not really.) But you both will be remembered. The Florida Keys and southwest Texas were hammered and flooded. But hotels, motels, cottages, campgrounds, bed and breakfasts, marinas, charter captains, sightseeing cruises, and other businesses say they are ready to welcome snowbirds again. Right on cue, the press reported that “Rayburn House,” seen in the Bloodline series and centered in the Florida Keys, is booking guests again for dates starting January 18th. The resort’s actual name is The Moorings Village and Spa.
The Keys have launched an upbeat, all-is-good ad campaign, saluting the hard work of everybody making repairs to be ready for the tourist season. “These residents are resilient and have worked hard at getting back to normal. The show goes on and so do the residents of the Keys,” said John Underwood, chief marketing officer for Tinsley Advertising in Miami. By mid-November more than 70 percent of all destination rooms were back online, he said, and the expectation was that the number would rise to 100 percent by New Year’s Day.
Gamefish weren’t thrown off their routines, apparently. Captain Mike Weinhofer of Compass Rose Charters reported a good bite for small sailfish in the Fall and was confident that big sailfish would be coming in behind them in January. “Schools of Mahi [dolphin fish] are big and hungry and in all the places they’re supposed to be.”
Mild temperatures will prevail from Florida to southwest Texas. Historical averages on New Year’s Day show daily temperatures range from 66 to 75 in Key West and from 55 to
68 in South Padre Island. But if you want to see what things look like in real time, multiple webcams take in waterfront scenes in the Keys and Texas: flakeys.com/webcams/ or stxmaps.com/go/south-texas-web-cams.html.
In January, both manatees and boaters are on the move looking for pleasant temperatures and good food. As long as sea cows stay in the shallow and captains stay in the deep, all is well. Captains and mates spot manatee shapes at their seagrass restaurants by the flip of a tail, a swirl of water and nostrils nosing the surface. Be ready to back away, captain.
Don’t let them nose up to your propeller. Sea cows get pretty curious sometimes, and not in a safe way. Florida’s manatee population is coming back—careful boaters deserve some of the credit for that—and seagrass acreage is expanding thanks to clean water initiatives throughout Florida. But here’s another item on the good citizens’ to-do list. If you see an injured manatee, call it into Florida Fish and Wildlife (FWC).
Florida Fly Fishing converges on the Crystal River
Fly fishers of all skill levels meet up in central Florida February 9-10, for the 2018 Florida Fly Fishing Expo, to see the latest in fly fishing gear displays, boats, and kayak exhibits, and fly casting and fly-tying classes. The venue is Plantation Inn on Crystal River, an on-the-water resort with spacious grounds and meeting rooms for all the demonstrations, classes and seminars led by acclaimed fly fishing experts brought in by the Florida Council of Fly Fishers International. The $25 entrance fee includes full access to seminars, demonstrations and a Friday meet-and-greet with food and beverages.
This boating-friendly city on Florida’s Gulf Coast looks toward the future without forgetting its past. Just another reason to visit Tampa.
Larry Falkif looked up and spotted an osprey off the port side and another over to starboard. “We rarely used to see these birds; now there are so many I don’t count them. They’ve more than made a comeback—they are flourishing, just like Tampa itself.” Falkif, who operates Tampa Water Taxi Company and runs a series of local voyages—a harbor tour, sunset tour, history tour, and homes of famous people tour—has witnessed the city’s rebirth over the past dozen years. Indeed, the City of
Indeed, the City of Tampa is thriving these days. Clearly on the rise, this port of call of nearly 400,000 draws boaters of all ages from across the country. It’s hip, dynamic and all about protecting its marine environment. From sightseeing and dining to shopping, fishing and catching a pro sports game, Tampa pleases even the most persnickety visitor. Better still, you can access these prospects from your own cruising platform all year long.
Falkif is happy to detail the changes and improvements he sees while sailing Tampa’s perimeter. He’ll point out small stuff that often goes unnoticed: ospreys, the latest waterfront bar or oysters growing on docks that were barren a decade ago. It’s great to have a guide to cut the learning curve, of course, but any captain worth his or her salt can sense the general vibe: This is a boating-friendly city that’s cruising in the right direction.
Situated near the mid-point along Florida’s Gulf Coast, the City of Tampa is tucked back into the protected waters of Hillsborough Bay, which itself is folded inside Tampa Bay. The downtown section is lined with newish-looking skyscrapers and attractive modern architecture. Numerous marinas provide plenty of dockage as well as easy access to the
waterfront. Edging the western shore, a Riverwalk area links high-end hotels, restaurants, museums, and parks like gems on a string. It bustles with activity yet never appears overcrowded despite both the Tampa Bay Convention Center and the Tampa Marriott Waterside Hotel & Marina bordering this stretch.
Also along the waterfront you’ll spy abundant riverside dining opportunities, five (soon to be nine) bridges featuring dazzling lighting after dark, the pirate ship replica Jose Gasparilla at the mouth of the Hillsborough River, the University of Tampa, and The Florida Aquarium, among other venues.
History buffs will absolutely love this place; the City of Tampa makes no bones about putting its past on display. From its first native inhabitants to Spanish conquistadors and buccaneers—several pirates have been associated with the bay although details are sometimes sketchy—you’ll find museums, theme restaurants, and venues recounting its yesteryears, often with a nautical twist.
The central point for all things historical is the Tampa Bay History Center, a Smithsonian Affiliate Museum with three floors of exhibits exploring 12,000 years of Florida’s past. Experience the stories of Seminole Indians, Cuban cigar rollers—Tampa’s Ybor City was once considered the Cigar Capital of the World—and Teddy Roosevelt’s Rough Riders through hands-on exhibits. (tampabayhistorycenter.org; 813-228-0097)
Another place worth investigating is the Tampa Museum of Art. Its own collection features everything from ancient Greek artifacts to modern abstracts while traveling exhibits from across the country bring new and innovative works to the region. (tampamuseum.org; 813-274-8130)
Arrrrghhhhhh! The city is famous for the annual Gasparilla Fest
There is plenty to drink in the historic city.
Catching a Redfish
Davis Island is located very close to Tampa and features a top-notch marina.
Even the convention center has spectacular views
Sail Pavillion– paddle and kayak to your heart’s delight.
Riverwalk Canopy in Tampa, FL
Are you a “foodie”? If so, prepare to be overwhelmed. Tampa’s diverse culture has interwoven itself within the palate of mainstream downtown through a wide assortment of tasty and original dishes. For example, Ulele, a unique restaurant on Tampa’s Riverwalk, serves native-inspired dishes and spirits from a rich variety of multicultural influences. Menu items such as Florida Jumpers (frog legs,) Alligator Hush Puppies, Crackling Pork Shank, and Chief Red Eagle Duck will challenge your tastebuds. For dessert, try the grilled pineapple served with cannoli cream.
Other dining hot spots include Café Dufrain (on the water, terrific service), Oxford Exchange (combination restaurant, coffee bar, bookstore, and home décor store across from the University of Tampa that is a favorite for lunch), and Columbia Restaurant, where my wife and I enjoyed a fun-filled night that included a fabulous flamenco performance and some of the finest steak and seafood we have ever sampled. Located in Ybor City, it was founded five generations ago as a sandwich shop. Today, it’s Florida’s oldest restaurant and claims to be the largest Spanish restaurant in the world. It also sports an impressive wine list. (There’s a Columbia Café at the History Center if you want a sense of the flavor without a big production.)
On a more modest front, day-trippers seem to especially enjoy Ricks on the River Bar and Grille. Its casual waterfront atmosphere features a marina, live music and plenty of fresh oysters, bar bites and cold drinks. For modern Mexican flair, check out Hablo Taco in Channelside Bay Plaza, popular with local residents and hockey fans heading to Amalie
Arena to cheer on the Tampa Bay Lightning. Several craft breweries are also scattered around the downtown area.
Tampa is hot and trendy for nightlife as well; the city comes alive after dark. Be sure to stop by Fly Bar & Restaurant, a craft cocktail pioneer; Hotel Bar, offering famous hotel cocktails from around the world; and Franklin Manor, a social drinkery flush with hand-crafted cocktails, vibrant live music and nosh-worthy bar bites. To really experience a party-like atmosphere, visit during the Gasparilla Pirate Festival held in late January. Celebrated almost every year since 1904, it features a huge parade acclaiming the
legend of José Gaspar (also known as Gasparilla), a mythical Spanish pirate who supposedly operated in Southwest Florida during the early 1800s.
Of course, if you love the water and things that live in it, a trip to The Florida Aquarium is mandatory. It showcases the aquatic animals and ecosystems of Florida and the world with sharks, sea turtles, alligators, river otters, sea horses, and more. This operation
is active in research and conservation programs throughout the Sunshine State, including coral research and animal rescue and rehabilitation. No wonder its Coral Reef Gallery features a one-of-a-kind view. (flaquarium.org; 813-273-4000)
If you would rather catch fish than observe them, get ready to cast. “It’s amazing what you can hook in sight of the city skyline,” says Jason Semeyn, a local charter skipper with iTrekkers, a service paring anglers and outdoorsy types with certified guides for fishing, camping, SUP, kayaking, and other adventures.
“You’ll find redfish, snook and jack crevalle on the flats, plus sea trout over grass beds,” advises Semeyn. “In the middle of the bay, you can troll diving plugs along the edges of deep shipping channels for big gag grouper. Tampa Bay may be the only place in the world where people target grouper on the troll as opposed to bottom-fishing with bait.”
For overnight trips, Falkif says that you can’t go wrong staying at Marjorie Park Marina. “It has good service, floating docks, consistent power, and resides in a quiet city park within a no-wake zone. It’s ideal.” That’s solid advice from a skipper with a reputation for being up-front.
It’s all Greek to me! Traditions run deep in Tarpon Springs.
North of Tampa Bay on Florida’s Gulf Coast, the Anclote River marks the end of the Florida Gulf Intracoastal Waterway Mile 150 and the entrance, upriver, to the city of Tarpon Springs, a true gem for visitors arriving by land or sea.
This quaint and picturesque community carries a history steeped in Greek culture, heritage, and religion, the stories of which are displayed throughout the town on murals and carried on through traditions that are sure to make an impression. It makes sense; Tarpon Springs boasts (by percentage) the largest population of Greek Americans anywhere in the U.S.
Spongey
Permanently enriched by the Mediterranean heritage brought by the sponge divers and their families who arrived at the turn of the 20th century, the Hellenic influence remains strong in Tarpon Springs to this day. George Billiris was a prominent citizen and personification of the history and culture of Tarpon Springs present and past.
Greece had a thriving sponge industry and the only sponge divers in the world, and around 1900, his grandfather emigrated from Greece to develop and work in the sponge industry in Tarpon Springs, where an abundance of sponges was found, which led to migration. In 1940, George was 14 years old and joined the family tradition of diving for sponges. Right up until his death in 2016 at age 89, he was operating a sponge business from a small office along the city’s sponge docks. George’s son now runs the business and carries on the family customs.
Sponge Docks
Indeed, the Greek influence here is strong along Dodecanese Boulevard, commonly referred to as the Sponge Docks. Enjoy strolling in the Greek fishing village, savor authentic dishes at the many Greek restaurants and shop for sponges—the Sponge Factory or Spongeorama are worthwhile stops—and other delights at stores lining the boulevard.
There, you’ll also find the city marina and a visitor center that offers area information, including a detailed map. When you’re all shopped out, consider dining at Shrimp Wrecked, Mykonos or Rusty Bellies to replenish your energy reserves. Or shop ’til you drop at The Sponge Exchange, an outdoor shopping mall with interesting stores, Anclote Brew and Mom’s Restaurant. If you’re up for a leisurely boat ride, along the docks are several boat charters you can board for a sponge diving experience, dolphin viewing or a trip to the beach at Anclote Key. Spongeorama also offers excursions to see dolphins and go to the Anclote Key beach for shelling and finding sponges.
Historic Sites and Sights
It is about a five-minute car ride to the Old Downtown and Historic District, or take the bus or trolley. In the early 1900s, downtown Tarpon Springs was the major center for shopping in this area. The Victorian-style buildings date from 1894 to 1943 and are another representation of the rich heritage of Tarpon Springs. Walk the brick sidewalks under tree canopies, or find a quiet bench and sit between old-fashioned street lamps.
The historic buildings are still a center of commerce for antique shops, boutiques, art galleries, cafés, two microbreweries, bed-and-breakfast inns, and specialty stores. Top-quality, chef-owned restaurants and cafés provide mouthwatering menus flaunting seafood, steaks, Greek favorites, and the chef-owners’ own specialties. The Chamber of Commerce at the corner of East Tarpon Avenue and Pinellas Avenue is a good resource for maps and other helpful information, while the Historical Society Museum & Visitor Center is housed in the original train depot—built in 1909—at 160 East Tarpon Avenue.
Cultures Collide
The City Library, Cultural Center, Tarpon Springs Performing Arts Center, Heritage Museum, Safford House Museum, and the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral are also located in this area. Devotion to Christianity and the Greek Orthodox Church is what led the parents of Nicholas and Peter Stamas from New York City—after emigrating through Ellis Island—to Tarpon Springs, where they opened a hotel and restaurant.
It was in the back of that hotel, in the late 1930s, where Peter and Nicholas built their first boat, a 22-foot wooden cruiser that was awarded first place at the Florida State Fair. Their influence came from Greek craftsman highly skilled at building strong seaworthy vessels, and it was in this unique environment that the Stamas brothers began building boats.
How Did Tarpon Springs Get Its Name?
Tarpon Springs is a short distance up the Anclote River at the north end of Pinellas County. It’s quite well known for its Greek heritage and food and for its downtown sponge docks and boats.
It turns out that the first non-native settlers in Tarpon Springs, A. W. Ormond and his daughter Mary were from Nassau, The Bahamas. They arrived in 1876 and lived on Spring Bayou which connects to the Anclote River. Mary loved to watch the huge schools of fish in Spring Bayou at certain times of the year. The story goes that she started calling it Tarpon Springs.
The problem was, those fish weren’t tarpon; they were mullet, but Tarpon Springs it is. The city celebrates its Greek culture and history at the downtown Sponge Docks, and the Opa! Palooza Greek Festival is June 14-15.
Tradition Runs Deep
Today, after 65 years, Stamas Yachts is the oldest, continuously family-owned boat company in the U.S. Actually, the epicenter for all things Greek in this town might just be the St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Cathedral. The first structure was built in 1907, and then replaced by the much larger St. Nicholas Cathedral in 1943, and is named after Saint Nicholas, the Patron Saint and protector of all mariners.
The Cathedral is not only beautiful, but it is also home to the largest Theophany celebration in the Western Hemisphere on January 6th, which marks the Christian celebration of Epiphany. The annual event is marked with a procession from the Cathedral to a platform on Spring Bayou. The Archbishop bestows a blessing of the waters, releases a white dove and throws a crafted cross into the water. Then, dozens of 16- to 18-year-old boys dive into the water in search of the cross; the boy who retrieves it is said to have blessings for the rest of the year.
This celebration also includes a “Blessing of the Fleet,” dining, dancing, and revelry as a part of Epiphany’s “Glendi,” the Greek word for festival.
Brother Nature
For visitors who are more inclined to celebrate the outdoors, Tarpon Springs’ warm winter waters are home to manatees and dolphins, while in the spring, eagles and osprey can be
found on their large nests feeding offspring. All this can be experienced by kayak, canoe, nature trails, and tour boats in the beautiful bayous that run through the city. Investing time to explore the many parks throughout the area is well spent since sheltered picnic sites, walking trails, fishing, water access, playgrounds, and wildlife are found in most.
Anclote Key Preserve State Park is located three miles off the coast of Tarpon Springs and is only accessible by boat. Whether you come for the culture and heritage or the shopping and dining, Tarpon Springs will certainly take up residence as a fond place in your heart and memories. Opa!
ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS ADDRESSES IN BOATING is No. 16 Lombard Street, London, England, in the very center of the city’s maritime business district. Sometime around 1691, Edward Lloyd opened a coffee house where men in powdered wigs with a penchant for math and underwriters who practiced stiff upper lip poses negotiated terms to compensate owners should their cargo ships be lost at sea. This was the origin of the famous Lloyd’s of London, a centuries-old insurance house based on a good cup of coffee.
And while I appreciate Keurig machines found on many of today’s finer production yachts, they defeat the social purpose of strolling the docks to discover a sinfully delicious pastry
shop in the most unlikely of places.
An accidental turn to starboard in Naples led me to the Tuscan-themed apartments and marina of the Naples Bay Resort. Wind inward and you’ll discover a 97-slip marina that offers overnight, seasonal and annual marina slip rentals and the Catalina Café. Try their signature lattes, local wild flower honey and homemade ginger syrup. Breakfast sandwiches, picnic lunches to-go and homemade baked goods are a cheerful start to a day’s boating or shopping ventures.
While chartering out of Southwest Florida Yachts in Cape Coral, Florida, my breakfast fix at the French Press resulted in loosening of the PFD straps. How does one turn down a chocolate and banana puree called the Dirty Banana, Filthy Coconut or French Kiss at seven in the morning? Sixteen ounces of hot, iced or blended coffee, along with
mainstays Americano, Red Eye and espresso can delay any well-crafted itinerary. The owners here offer croissants, bagels and for heartier appetites, a full complement of eggs,
bacon, ham or sausage, and cheese. You’ll find them at Cape Harbour Marina.
Speaking of croissants, mariners who are lucky enough to finagle a slip on Boca Grande will want to make the overland trek to The Inn Bakery, the newest addition to The Gasparilla Inn & Club. Boater casual, this storied resort offers signature coffees, morning pastries, sugared doughnuts, and the best cinnamon raisin rolls ever! The marina is open to the public and located on the bayou behind The Inn. Larger vessels up to 100 feet will find accommodations nearby at Boca Grande Marina (formerly Miller’s). Simply rent a golf cart and enjoy the island “Boca Style.”
For purists who prefer a cup of coffee without compromise and favor supporting a start-up sourcing the highest-quality beans from the best farmers across the globe, check out Buddy Brew a few blocks from Marina Jack in Sarasota. The owner is expanding throughout Florida creating exceptional coffees, while building community with a whimsically themed décor. Dog lovers should try the Double Dog Espresso.
St. Petersburg’s waterfront is becoming a “foodie heaven”, which is a far cry from its former moniker “God’s waiting room.” Alive, vibrant and skewing toward the younger, the
hip, new breakfast bistro is The Wooden Rooster. Serving regular, buckwheat or gluten-free crepes, not to mention a great cup of joe, the casual café works closely with local
farmers featuring organic produce, when possible.
Lloyd’s of London may have old-world charm and history, but along Florida’s West Coast, boaters now have many memorable morning destinations to idly pass the time over a
great cup of coffee.
Waterfront on the west.
An educational family vacation awaits in Pensacola, Florida, where naval history is all around you.
On the western end of the Florida Panhandle is Pensacola, the state’s second-oldest city and widely known for its great beaches. But Pensacola has also played a major role in the naval history of our country, a role that continues today.
Pensacola Bay is the deepest bay on the Gulf Coast and is protected from the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico by the long barrier island of Santa Rosa to the south. Its importance as a safe harbor and its strategic location led to a Spanish settlement dating back to 1559. (The Native American population being displaced was the custom.) Both the French and English had short-term claims to the land, but mainly the Spanish kept control until 1819, when the land was officially sold to the United States.
The strategic importance of Pensacola Bay was readily apparent, and the U.S. built three forts to guard its entrance: Fort Pickens was established on the west end of Santa Rosa Island, Fort McRee was across the passage on Perdido Key, and Fort Barrancas was built on the mainland over the remains of the original Spanish fort.
With a protected harbor and an abundance of timber, especially live oak, the U.S. government started construction of the Pensacola Navy Yard on the land surrounding Fort Barrancas in 1826; the yard was decommissioned in 1911. By then, the development of the airplane and its possible use by the U.S. Navy led the government to commission Naval Air Station (NAS) Pensacola as the first Naval AirStation in 1914.
Through two World Wars and various military conflicts afterward, NAS Pensacola has provided our country with some of the very best naval aviators. Today, more than 16,000 military and 7,000 civilian personnel are associated with the base.
Nothing could be more idyllic than a bike ride to the beach in Pensacola, FL.
Explore Fort Pickens in Pensacola, Fl.
Check out the Lighthouse Museum in Pensacola.
The Famous Blue Angels get high in Pensacola, FL.
Surf fishing in Pensacola, Florida
NAS Pensacola offers a wide variety of things to do and see. Most attractions are free, but keep in mind that this is an active military base. Visitors are welcome, but make sure to carry picture IDs and be prepared for a search of your belongings upon entrance to the base.
NAS is home to the U.S. Navy precision flying team, the famed Blue Angels. Formed in 1946 to boost public interest in naval aviation, the Blue Angels relocated to NAS Pensacola in June 1955. Now in their 71st year, they have performed for nearly 500 million fans. Watch them practice their air show routine for free, and stick around to meet the pilots. Get there early to secure a good vantage point. For practice times, go to blueangels.navy.mil.
When the “Blues” are finished, walk over to the world’s largest naval aviation museum. The National Naval Aviation Museum features 150 restored aircraft from vintage to modern and depicts the history of naval aviation. Entrance to the museum is free, and there are interactive displays and real cockpits the kids can climb into. If you get hungry, the Cubi Bar Café continues the theme of naval aviation and is a fantastic place to get an inexpensive meal. navalaviationmuseum.org
Only a few minutes away is another landmark, the Pensacola Lighthouse. Completed in 1859, the Pensacola Light has withstood wars, hurricanes and even an earthquake in 1886. The distinctive paint job—the bottom third is white and the top two-thirds is black—makes it clearly visible for miles. A small admission fee allows you to climb the 177 steps to the top of the 150-foot-tall tower, where you’ll have spectacular views of Pensacola Pass, downtown Pensacola and the base itself. You’ll probably see planes flying past, perhaps even the Blue Angels! The lighthouse is open seven days a week from 10AM to 5:30PM. pensacolalighthouse.org
Fort Barrancas is less than a mile away. The original Spanish fort was reconstructed by the Americans from 1839 to 1844. A battery of cannons pointed in the direction of the water to guard entrance to the Bay. The fort is partially underground to prevent damage from enemy bombardment. Travel through the passageways and then go up to the “Parade Ground,” where you’ll have views of the Bay and Santa Rosa Island on the other side.
The Gulf Islands National Seashore (GINS) was established in January 1971 to protect historic landmarks, as well as the birds and wildlife that inhabit the area. If you’d like to boat around the GINS, the National Park Service requires a 20-foot or longer craft to handle the currents and water conditions and also recommends having an up-to-date nautical chart for safe navigation. GINS is the nation’s largest seashore and stretches from Santa Rosa Island west to Cat Island, Mississippi. The Florida side of the GINS consists of six different locations along the water in the Pensacola area (including Fort Barrancas). The park includes the surrounding waters here and, in fact, 80 percent of the protected area is under water. nps.gov/guis/index.htm
Once inside the park, you are in a different world. There are no big hotels and actually, there are not many buildings at all. (There is one general store near the middle of the park.) Instead, there are miles of white-sand beaches with warm, Gulf waters lapping up on them. With an entrance fee and few amenities, the park is not crowded. You’ll find groups of people near the parking lots (only Langdon Beach has a bathhouse), but you don’t have to go far to be alone. Swim, snorkel or dive, lie on the beach, or go surf fishing. Typically, the Gulf is fairly benign in terms of conditions. On the west end of Santa Rosa Island is the Fort Pickens
On the west end of Santa Rosa Island is the Fort Pickens Area, where the fort’s remains still stand. Go on a guided or self-guided tour. Completed in 1834, this pentagon-shaped fort was built with four-foot-thick brick walls to withstand
cannon fi re, and they still survive today. A bookstore and a museum are nearby to further explain the historic significance of the fort.
Anglers can use a fishing pier on the Bay side. With NAS Pensacola just 1.5 miles across the Bay, the Fort Pickens Area is a great place to watch the Blue Angels practice and fly in formation directly overhead. Shutterbugs can get some great shots across the water of the Blues flying past the lighthouse.
Several biking/ hiking/nature trails are also available in the park. The west end of the island broadens out enough to have some freshwater marshes. The Blackbird Marsh Trail near Fort Pickens crosses some of these wetlands, which are home to a wide variety of birds.
In fact, the GINS is part of the Great Florida Birding Trail. Occasionally, sections of the park will be closed to protect nesting shorebirds. The Dune Nature Trail on a boardwalk leads across the dunes to the beach. Sea turtles frequently build nests on the higher parts of the beach and are marked.
The Florida National Scenic Trail starts down the peninsula at the Big Cypress National Preserve and ends at Fort Pickens. It’s worth the trek to see the abundance of fish and dolphin that swim in the nearby offshore waters.
The Cajun Navy has entered popular vernacular, but what do we know about the group?
The famed Cajun Navy came to be when a Former Louisiana state senator Nick Gautreaux pleaded for someone, anyone to assist after Hurricane Katrina in 2005. Between 350 and 400 people and their boats answered the call. The makeshift flotilla rescued more than 10,000 people from flooded homes and rooftops.
The group quietly returned to back bayou watering holes knowing the next big one is just a reality of Gulf Coast living. In August 2016, Louisiana was hammered again by a no-name storm and historic flooding. The Cajun Navy fired up airboats, Jon boats, and rafts, re-emerging to save neighbors.
Hurricane Harvey
A year later, they mobilized again for the citizens of Houston, Texas.
The difference this time was social media and smartphone apps that mobilized this unofficial group. With countless cars flooded, these sportsmen took direction from first responders and helped gather donated food, water, and supplies, delivering to remote, hard-to-reach areas.
Social media—in particular, the Zello app—brought them together 24 hours after Hurricane Harvey came ashore. Mobilizing in a Costco parking lot in Baton Rouge, they employed another app, Glympse, to track the hundreds of boats, RVs and big trucks that took donated supplies into Texas and various staging sites.
Jon Bridgers Sr. is the founder of the modern-day Cajun Navy. “Everyone trained in the year since our big flood; this year, we were tested,” he said. No one is paid; they are all volunteers, using their own money, their own gas, and their own food to help first responders who were quite simply unable to be everywhere in a disaster of this magnitude.
Hurricane Florence
And as Hurricane Florence trudged her way through the Carolina’s, dumping unprecedented amounts of rain, the Cajun Navy sprang into action again. The group says they helped rescue more than 150 people. Terrified parents, sleepy toddlers, and scores of elderly were trapped in attics as the water moved higher.
“It’s not that local firefighters and police can’t get it done. But the extra help means a lot,” said Blair Burgess, a South Carolina resident told the Washington Post. “You can never have too many hands. You never want to be wishing you had 15 more boats to save 15 more lives.”
As the folks at FEMA are fond of saying, it’s not a question of if Florida and surrounding states being hit by a Category 5 storm. It’s a question of when. Hurricane Irma was the wake-up call, Florence was yet another reminder We like the notion of helping neighbors, whether they are a block away, a city away or as the Louisiana Cajun Navy demonstrated, a state away.
The 6th Annual Roanoke Island Maritime Museum Outer Banks Wooden Boat Show in Manteo on North Carolina’s Outer Banks is scheduled for October 27-28 and open to all wooden boats: power, sail, row, paddle, new construction or restored. Registration is $30 for exhibitors, which includes a pass for a Friday night exhibitors’ welcome reception and a museum T-shirt.
Registration forms are available online, at the museum or by calling the museum at (252) 475-1750. The boats are displayed in the Creef Boathouse and Park and in the water at the Roanoke Marshes lighthouse docks. Show-goers will judge the best owner-built/restored or professional-built/restored boat. Awards presented at a dinner Saturday evening include the People’s Choice Award and the H.A. Creef Award, given to the best overall boat. All proceeds benefit a local youth sailing program. townofmanteo.com
Offshore Fishing gets some needed updates in the Gulf
Commercial anglers, charter boat captains, and recreational fishing communities have long recognized the need for sustaining offshore fishing. But how best to regulate
fisheries often led to heated debate and a feeling that one group or another was left out of the process. Thanks to the efforts of Florida’s two U.S. senators, along with Florida
members of the House of Representatives, major legislation to provide a long-term management plan has been introduced that gives all parties a seat at the table.
Senators Marco Rubio (R-FL) and Bill Nelson (D-FL) have laid out a bipartisan bill that includes reauthorization of the Magnuson-Stevens Act to ensure federal fishing laws reflect the realities of the Gulf of Mexico and South Atlantic regions.
The Florida Fisheries Improvement Act would:
Give the Gulf of Mexico and South Atlantic Regional Fishery Management Councils greater flexibility in setting rebuilding timelines for fisheries.
Include provisions to increase the availability of funding for stock assessments, surveys, and data collection.
Require the Secretary of Commerce to create a plan to better prioritize stock assessments and submit a report to Congress on how to improve data collection from fishermen and other stakeholders.
Include provisions to increase transparency and public involvement in the scientific and statistical committee process, as well as the consideration of experimental fishing permits.
Authorize the Councils to consider alternative management measures such as extraction rates or fishing mortality targets in fishery management plans to better reflect the different priorities of each industry.
Exempt fisheries with a mean life cycle of less than one year or with spawning areas outside the United States, such as spiny lobster, from unnecessary rebuilding timelines.
The bill is supported by numerous members of the fishing community, among them Kellie Ralston, Florida fishery policy director of the American Sportfishing Association. “While our state continues to provide strong management of our freshwater and inshore fisheries, federal marine fisheries management has created many challenges for Florida’s offshore anglers and the businesses that depend on these fisheries,” Ralston said. “We appreciate Senator Rubio’s and Senator Nelson’s efforts through the Florida Fisheries Improvement Act to amend the Magnuson-Stevens Act in a way that benefits anglers and improves the management and conservation of federal fisheries.”
One of the key negotiation points was ensuring nominations to the Gulf and South Atlantic Councils reflect the mixed nature of fishery stakeholders by guaranteeing commercial,
charter and recreational anglers are afforded the opportunity to be nominated.
Also before Congress is the Red Snapper Act, a bill to improve the way the recreational red snapper fishery is managed in the Gulf of Mexico. Under the proposal, the five Gulf states would manage private recreational fishing seasons for red snapper within their existing 9-mile state territory as well as out to 25 miles or 25 fathoms, whichever is farther from shore. Fishing days beyond nine miles would have to be managed in accordance with the national standards and a Gulf-wide catch limit. The bill would also give more weight to state harvest data to help provide more timely information about catch rates and effort, as well as require the inclusion of non-federal data in determining the acceptable biological catch of red snapper.
Commercial and charter fishing would remain under the federal system, with regulations developed by the Gulf of Mexico Fishery Management Council. A decade ago the season for red snapper lasted six months. This year, it was supposed to be a scant three days with a two-fish bag limit before the Department of Commerce and the Gulf states negotiated an exchange of state-water fishing seasons for 39 days of additional federal water access throughout the summer. The season ended September 4th. Stay tuned for season changes as they develop.
It’s festival season all over again; Gulf Festivals, that is.
Barring any late-season tropical weather in the Gulf, Apalachicola has back-to-back weekends of waterfront festivities, including what is arguably the best Panhandle seafood festival. Get to some Gulf Festivals!
The Annual Autos & Oysters Auto Show on Saturday, October 28th, attracts equally intriguing vintage cars and their spirited owners. Here, the term “shuck and jive” can apply to the stories you hear or the oysters you enjoy at one of Apalachicola’s legendary seafood restaurants. More than a few yachtsmen stay the week enjoying a laid-back slice of historic homes, eco parks, museums, shopping, and more at this gulf festival.apalachicolabay.org
Musical headliners Jerrod Niemann and I AM THEY will create an entirely different experience the following weekend during the 54th Annual Florida Seafood Festival. Daytime activities focus on seafood, oyster eating and shucking contests, arts and crafts, and the traditional Blessing of the Fleet. floridaseafoodfestival.com
Marina reservations typically are hard to come by. Water Street Marina along the downtown waterfront—formerly operating as Deepwater Marina—has completed a stunning renovation, including 20 transient slips built by Bellingham Marine. The marina can handle vessels up to 55 feet. waterstreethotel.com/marina
Another favorite is Scipio Creek Marina, the largest marina in the area with direct access to the Gulf and a family-friendly atmosphere. scipiocreekmarina.com
FOR A 10-YEAR-OLD BOY ON VACATION FROM OHIO, the offshore fishing trip with his grandfather was enough of a treat. Heading out from the New Pass Inlet in Sarasota, Florida, day boats didn’t have to travel far for tourists to have a successful day of Goliath Grouper fishing in the 1960s.
I can still remember the high pitched noise as line played out and deckhands came running to help Gramps as he struggled to land a 321-pound goliath grouper. The battle lasted nearly an hour, and for the retired bank messenger who had moved from Cleveland to Siesta Key, it was the catch of a lifetime.
Since 1990, it’s been illegal to land the goliath groupers. Overfished in the ’70s and ’80s, these beasts can top 800 pounds, measure over 8 feet in length and have been known to live at least 35 years—some marine biologists believe up to 50 years.
The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) is hosting 15 workshops across the state from the Panhandle to Naples through October to gather public input on goliath grouper management, including the possibility of a limited harvest season in Florida state waters.
Goliath grouper populations have substantially recovered since the harvest prohibition took effect. According to the FWC, “There have been increases in abundance in certain areas (Tampa Bay, Charlotte Harbor and the Ten Thousand Islands), and the distribution of goliath grouper populations has extended into areas of its former range throughout Florida, including the Big Bend and Panhandle regions.”
Continued regulation may be focused on areas where the species spawns and the young mature. The Ten Thousand Islands off southwest Florida is of particular interest where young goliath grouper spend up to six years in mangrove habitat—a nursery of sorts.
Interestingly, they have been known to form spawning groups of 100 or more. Courtship behavior is regularly observed at chartered wrecks or rock ledges in the eastern Gulf during the full moons of August and September. For boaters and anglers interested in attending one of the workshops, a list of dates and locations is on the FWC website myfwc.com/fishing/saltwater/rulemaking/workshops.
Boaters win some, lose some with Florida’s State Budget
FLORIDA GOVERNOR RICK SCOTT HAS ISSUED a modern-day record number of vetoes impacting nearly a dozen West Coast Florida projects.
There is some good news, however, as a special session deal with lawmakers allocated a surprising $50 million for improvements to the Herbert Hoover Dike at Lake Okeechobee. Recreational boating and tourism on both coasts will benefit in the long run, easing water discharges that led to massive algae blooms affecting water quality, damage to estuaries and fish kills.
The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) estimates that shoring up the entire 143-mile dike, with an environmentally friendly solution involving the construction of a seepage berm with relief trench and drainage system, will take decades and nearly a billion dollars, perhaps funded by the federal government. Construction would be in eight phases, starting with a 21-mile-long southeast shore section where the potential for dike failure is the greatest. Phase One of the Lake Okeechobee Construction would take about four years to complete.
Transiting boaters are often delayed in the spring as the Corps discharges water from the lake to keep the elevation between 12.5 and 15.5 feet. There is limited potential for dike failure with lake elevations lower than 18.5 feet. Analytical studies show a dike failure would be likely at one or more locations if the water level in Lake Okeechobee reached an elevation of 21 feet. By opening locks on either side of the lake, water levels drop only about 0.4 inches per day under ideal conditions. That is no match for Mother Nature, especially during a hurricane, as the amount of water entering Lake Okeechobee is much greater than the total discharged, which leads to environmental challenges to the St. Lucie River, Indian River Lagoon and Caloosahatchee Estuaries.
The containment dike was first constructed in the 1910s, and after the “Great Miami” hurricane of 1926 and the 1928 Okeechobee Hurricane killing thousands. Herbert Hoover and the USACE engaged in a massive flood control project for construction of floodway channels, control gates, and major levees. The dike was expanded again in the 1960s and is now about 30 feet high on average, but it leaks. For those who live downstream and have businesses affected by discharges, deeper lake water may mean fewer harmful discharges, but it could also harm flora and fauna in the lake. So there is no easy answer, but the $50 million is a start for Lake Okeechobee construction.
