Living Large On Largo

Called the “pearl of the Florida Keys”, Playa Largo Resort & Spa radiates with luxury. 

In 1948, Hollywood legends Humphrey Bogart, Lauren Bacall and Edward G. Robinson starred in a movie directed by John Huston that was speculated would trigger a land boom in the area for which the film was named, Key Largo. But the island had never been officially established as a municipality and was more commonly referred to as Rock Harbor, the name of the bay on the south or oceanside of the island. The movie’s release motivated the area’s residents to relocate the post office to mile marker 100, and the area was formally named Key Largo in 1952. That little-known historical gem—as well as dozens of others spanning more than 400 years—is the inspiration behind the newest waterfront and boating-accessible destination resort in Key Largo, Florida.

Opened in 2016, Playa Largo Resort & Spa is the 100th property in the Marriott Autograph Collection of more than 400 boutique hotels and resorts. Playa Largo is also the exclusive brand’s first new build and the first new building in Key Largo in more than 23 years. The Autograph Collection’s tagline, “Exactly like nothing else” is more than fitting. It’s literal. Each property is designed with its own unique story crafted from its environment, indigenous makeup and historical background. Mark Calibo, Director of Sales & Marketing, was tasked with developing a creative vision with the objective of building the “perfect” Autograph.

“If we were in colonial Williamsburg, there would be Revolutionary time period influence in the build, theme and décor,” explains Calibo, who grew up in the Florida Keys. His extensive research went back to the 1600s since the first written notation of “Cayo Largo” was on a Spanish navigation map from that time period. Consequently, the Spanish influence of explorers such as Juan Ponce de Leon and Columbus played a large part of the resort’s creative design in dining and landscaping.

The décor especially reflects the Spanish mariner life. Their ships were built with false interior walls to use for attaching bed frames for officers, and the resort uses contemporary versions in the accommodation’s rooms behind headboards and mirrors, like nautical artwork. In the lobby, hanging chairs are vertical reminders of the horizontal hammocks sailors would sleep on so that they’d move with the ships’ rocking. A compass rose on the marble floor surrounds the fountain, and nautical-themed accouterments are everywhere you look: ship-style lanterns, frosted glass bottles, wooden oars, crab pots, and other curious treasures. “In the 1600s, the Spanish had established their path, already pillaged much of South America, hit the Pacific coast, made their way back, and the trade routes brought them to the Florida Keys. They had the gems and riches but did not have the most important commodity, water, which was more valuable to get them back to Spain,” Calibo details. Their voyage brought them to an island they named Islamorada (“isle of purple”) for its colorful bougainvillea, which is found throughout the resort. Contrary to the pillaging nature of the Spanish explorers, the resort’s construction took great care to protect the existing natural landscape, birds, insects, and other critters.

“Hammocks are mini-ecosystems. Gumbo limbo trees were counted and could be moved but not destroyed. They’re part of the Keys and have been there longer than the people,” says Senior Sales Manager David Cohen during our tour. To illustrate his point, we duck underneath the large branch of a sea grape tree that hangs over and shades the walking path. Instead of moving the tree for convenience, they chose to incorporate it into the landscape design. For guests, this innocuous and seemingly inconsequential detail lends to an atmosphere of peaceful co-existence, as if the path and the sea grape tree somehow cooperate with each other. A little further, a path of coarse sand and small pebbles detours off the pavement and leads through the trees. It, too, feels organic to the property, especially with the small tree that’s smack dab in the middle. The path runs along the entire perimeter and serves as a small nature hike; ultimately the trees will be marked as to their species, many of which were in existence at the time of the Spaniards’ arrival.

The Spanish influence is also evident in Playa Largo’s dining options. During their travels to South America, Spanish explorers learned the Peruvian method of preserving fish to sustain them and added spices for flavoring. The popular fish dish is now known as ceviche and, along with sushi, is the menu focus for one of the resort’s three signature restaurants. Las Olas (“the waves”) is off the lobby and Sunset Terrace, and it’s a popular meeting place for healthy, light meals and drinks. La Marea (“the tides”) is the newest fine dining restaurant in the Florida Keys and a true steakhouse. Sol (“sun”) by the Sea offers open-air casual dining with a spectacular view of the water and marina. (Boats should draft less than 4 feet, but call ahead for dock availability.) Under the restaurant, Caribbean Watersports operates all non-motorized watersports—pedal boards, paddle boards, kayaks, Hobie cat sailboats—as well as sunset cruises, parasailing and eco-tours of the Everglades. The concierge can make arrangements for world-famous snorkeling at John Pennekamp State Park and dive trips to see the bronze statue Christ of the Abyss in the Natural Underwater Sanctuary—the country’s first underwater National Park—as well as to Molasses Reef and other notable spots.

The restaurants’ menus—and some of the specialty treatments in the Ocean Spa—also take their cues from another mariner, Captain Ben Baker, who lived in the Keys in the mid to late 1800s. Captain Baker was a true seafarer and also a salvager who made his living from taking valuables from shipwrecks. In the Florida Keys, it was a profitable business until anti-piracy laws drastically affected his revenue stream. The entrepreneur imported pineapples from his contacts in Cuba intending to distribute throughout the U.S., but he didn’t anticipate how quickly the tropical fruit spoils. He learned from his Cuban shippers how to cultivate new plants using the tops of the pineapples and bought 160 acres of land around mile marker 97. Captain Baker became not only a farmer and plantation owner but also one of the top pineapple barons of his time. At Playa Largo and with a nod to Captain Baker, a glass jar of fresh pineapple mojitos are always in the lobby—there’s also a non-alcoholic option—to welcome arriving guests. Restaurant menu items include pineapple salsa with plantain chips, Mahi filets grilled on pineapple planks (compared with salmon grilled on a cedar plank) and drinks served in classy pineapple-shaped copper mugs.

In the early 1900s, Henry Flagler’s vision for an overseas highway brought his class and culture to Florida, including Key Largo, which was established as Camp #1 for the workers. Flagler’s circle of friends—J.P. Morgan, the Vanderbilts, Julia Tuttle—were the upper crust of society and looked the part in dress and tradition, some of which continues at Playa Largo. Staff at many of the Keys’ resorts dress in very casual attire, but at Playa Largo, male staff typically dress in sharp, pressed, Guayabera shirts. The deluxe accommodations—10 bungalows plus a larger beach house with private pool—are separated from the hotel towers, and a fulltime concierge looks after their every need. Even the daily tradition at sunset is different than what occurs at Mallory Square in Key West, with its vaudeville-type performers and hawkers. Instead, a polished silver bell located between the pool and the beach is rung exactly 30 minutes prior to sunset, then again when the sun disappears below the horizon. Immediately afterward, the fire pits are lit. Guests bring s’more kits they bought in the gift shop and roast marshmallows over the fire, while others watch Key Largo on a 25-foot drop-down screen over the pool. Playa Largo’s daily sunset tradition celebrates the cosmic event that’s occurred every 24 hours since the beginning of time in a manner that is civilized, refined, and yet casual Keys.

If you’re one of the fortunate to be invited to a wedding, business function or other special event held at Playa Largo, the enjoyment of your relaxing day at the beach, snorkeling the reef or diving adventure continues into the evening in the Tavernier Ballroom. The carpet brings to mind azure water washing over the sand, and the chandeliers resemble bubbles rising up, like you’re still under the water on the reef. Just outside, the grassy lawn hosts receptions for sunset weddings held in the gazebo, dinners for upscale business meetings and, in October, the 2nd Annual Humphrey Bogart Film Festival. Bogie would be pleased. You will be, too.

INFO: playalargoresort.com

Kayaking through Cuba

South of Havana and the visiting hordes of Americans, Cuba offers a wilderness that even a half-century of revolution left unspoiled.

I spot the flamingos as I paddle my sea kayak around a corner in the coffee-colored lagoon. There are about a hundred birds along the mangrove shore, and it’s so quiet and I’m so close that I can hear their gurgled chuckling as they high-step through the shallow water. I remember what a taxi driver told me when I first arrived in Cuba and asked how far you had to go from Havana to really get out into Cuba. He laughed. “You don’t have to go very far in Cuba to go very far in Cuba.”

I’m on a weeklong sea kayak expedition with ROW Adventures (cubaunbound.com) along the southern coast of Cuba. They’ve promised me a chance to get off the tourist-packed streets of Havana and experience the island beyond frozen mojitos and joyrides in vintage Chevys. And now, halfway through our journey, Havana feels as far away as Miami. It’s just me, the muddy labyrinth of mangrove channels, the gorgeously delicate birds, and the misty blue mountains of the Sierra Escambray rising beyond.

Soon the spell is broken by the hollow thump-thump of paddles against plastic kayak hulls and the happy conversations of my fellow paddlers. The shy flamingos launch into a low, lazy flight and blur past me in a peach-sherbet smear. They climb, circle our boats once and vanish beyond the next bend somewhere deeper in the swamp. I lift my paddle and dig into the water. I’m only a half-mile into today’s five-mile paddle, but already my face hurts from smiling so hard.

Cuba travel restrictions for Americans relaxed a few years ago under the Obama administration, though rules on traveling there by boat were slower in coming. Now, cruisers (and kayakers) have fewer restrictions but are wise to consult with an experienced agency for the requirements to visit this North Korea of the Caribbean by boat. (See the resource list at the end.) It’s safe to say there is a mad rush to Cuba going on right now. In 2016, the island saw over 3.5 million tourists, with over a million visitors in first four months. “We have a joke here,” a taxi driver tells me. “All the Americans are rushing to see Cuba… before all the Americans rush to Cuba.”

After an obligatory tour of the capital and Hemingway watering holes, our group hops a brand-new Chinese tour bus and heads two hours south to Playa Larga, a small fishing village on the Zapata Peninsula. It’s a quiet town barely two streets deep from the beach with just a few rows of red-roofed pink shacks. Horse-drawn carts drop students off after school, and men mend fishing nets in the shade of coconut palms. There aren’t any hotels in town yet, so we’re split up into private homes. Shortly after the fall of the Soviet Union, Cuba descended into an economic crisis, and Castro allowed individuals to rent out rooms in their homes as “casa particulares,” quasi bed-and-breakfast establishments. Mine, the Casa Tiki, is clean, the bedroom kept polar by an air conditioner and rotating fan; my private bathroom is shiny and smells of bleach.

Later that afternoon, Lerdo, our local kayak guide, leads us out of the bay. Miles of mangrove swamp line the scooped coast, broken here and there by the white flash of beaches. “Back in the 1700s, these forests were full of wild boars,” he says. “So the French sailors started a trade. They shot the pigs and cured the bacon on wooden racks called boucans. But the traders refused to pay tax to Havana and were considered outlaws. They were called boucaneros.” Lerdo waits hopefully for one of us to make the connection. “Pirates!” He finally says. “You’re in the bay where the word buccaneer was born!”

It’s a fun bit of trivia, but the rest of the world knows the bay for another reason. On April 16, 1961, more than 1,400 mercenaries trained by the CIA landed here in the Bay of Pigs and tried to lead an uprising. Lerdo ticks off the beaches as we pass them: Blue Beach, Green Beach, Red Beach. As the surf picks up, we tuck in closer to shore. A small resort fronts one of the landing zones. A couple of guys are trying to get a surfing kite airborne, while a Swiss couple snorkels out to say hello and ask if we’re Americans. Children splash in the waves.

The invasion failed, Lerdo says, sticking close to the official account of a heroic resistance and a united people. The invaders who weren’t killed were taken prisoner, and eventually swapped in a political exchange. The only reminder left of the invasion today are the miles of ragged coastline, still as wild as they were back then.

Playa Giron is poised to become famous again—not for an unsuccessful imperial invasion but as the gateway to the Caribbean’s last truly unspoiled wilderness. The next morning we drive down a sandy arrow-straight road deep into the heart of the Zapata Peninsula, Cuba’s largest national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was declared a national park back in 1936.

We spend all day paddling a glorious sky-blue lagoon so bright it hurts my eyes even with sunglasses. We paddle past islands of palmettos and tangles of mangroves. Rosette spoonbills step daintily among the shallows and white egrets probe the mud for crabs. Large schools of bonefish stir up the milky water. The sea is shallow, rarely more than a meter deep, and often my keel scrapes the sandy bottom. We’re the only ones in this vast wilderness today, maybe the only ones here this week. I learn later that more people summit Mount Everest every year than kayak the Zapata Swamp.

Over the week, we make our way ever eastward through the Zapata Swamp, through the lagoons around Cienfuegos and along the rugged cliffs off Trinidad. Near the end of the week, we reach our terminus at Cayo Blanco, a small crescent island. We can’t reach it by kayak since it’s nine miles offshore and the waves are too steep. So we take one of the rare motorized boats available from a marina outside the colonial town of Trinidad. Our Cuban escort can’t join us. Why not, I ask. He shrugs. “Cubans need a special permit to ride in a motorized boat. And I don’t have a special permit.”

The open sea is choppy and people are seasick. When our captain spots a fleet of wooden sailboats fishing a nearby bank, we detour out. There’s a shouted exchange as the fishermen sling three red snappers aboard and the captain tosses back two liters of cola.

We land on the island. Anywhere else in the Caribbean this sugar-sand beachfront would be lined with high-rise resorts and studded with candy-cane beach umbrellas. But here there’s only a small government-run café powered by about 40 car batteries hidden behind the kitchen. Sunburned Brits line up at the bar for rum over crushed ice, while large Russians stall out the buffet line as they carefully pick all the lobster bits out of the soggy, communal paella.

I’ve gone as far as I’ll go on this journey through Cuba. On our homeward journey, I climb to the bow. The emerald water rushes beneath my bare feet. Far ahead the mangroves guard the shore. Beyond them climb the Sierra Maestra. The horizon to port and starboard is empty, just endless green waves heaving under a blue sky. A tern drops in and keeps pace with the boat. And for the moment at least, while the rest of the paddlers’ nap in the shade of the bridge, Cuba all around me is wide and open and unbound.

— Story and photos by Jad Davenport, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017

cruising to Cuba resources
Cuba Seas
cubaseas.com

International SeaKeepers Society
seakeepers.org/cuba  

Tall Ships in Charleston

There was once a day when tall ships with square sails were a regular sight in Charleston, South Carolina. For three days in May these magnificent ships will once again grace Charleston’s historic harbor. From May 19th through the 21st tall ships from around the world return to Charleston, as one of only two U.S. ports to host a tall ship event this year.

Ships on display range from historic military to merchant vessels and unique, privately built sailing yachts. One of the most interesting is the 63-foot schooner When and If built in 1939 by General (then Colonel) George S. Patton, who told the famed naval architect John Alden, “When the war is over, and if I live through it, Bea and I are going to sail her around the world.” General Patton would be happy with the condition in which the current owners have kept his proud ship. The largest of the international ships attending is the 205-foot, three-masted barque Alexander von Humboldt.

In addition to ships being open for tour, several will take passengers on a 90-minute sail around the harbor, including the Spirit of South Carolina, the Pride of Baltimore and the When and If. The festival has maritime events planned for all ages and interests. Families will have the opportunity to build small wooden skiffs over the three-day event. Other activities include a wooden boat show, a display of maritime art, live music throughout the weekend, and a Pirates Camp for “ye enjoyment ’n learnin’.” Proceeds from the event will be donated to Charleston Community Sailing, the Lowcountry Maritime Society, The Spirit of South Carolina, and Warrior Sailing. More information about the event can be found at tallshipscharleston.com.

Fleet Week Port Everglades and the Fort Lauderdale Air Show

Fleet Week allows the public an up-close and personal view of naval and Coast Guard

You may see a similar Super Hornet at the Fort Lauderdale Air Show.

ships along with an opportunity to meet the women and men that serve aboard them. Beginning with an opening ceremony on Monday, May 1st, the community will welcome visiting sailors, Marines and
Coast Guard personnel at Esplanade Park on the Fort Lauderdale Riverwalk. Navy and Coast Guard vessels will be available and open for public tour Tuesday, May 2nd through Saturday, May 6th. All vessel tours are scheduled at specific times with a limited number of people allowed on each tour. Due to security restrictions, tours require registration prior to boarding any military vessel.

Visiting service personnel will be participating in vocational and recreational activities while in port. Military personnel will also be visiting local hospitals and schools while assisting with community service projects. Event details can be found at browardnavydaysinc.org.

Coinciding with Fleet Week is the Fort Lauderdale Air Show, with flight demonstrations on May 6-7. Military and civilian aircraft will perform flight maneuvers directly off Fort Lauderdale beach. Watch precision flying performed by U.S. Marine Corp Osprey aircraft and the Canadian Armed Forces Snowbirds. Spectators on the beach will also enjoy paratrooper teams landing right in front of them. For more information and to purchase tickets go to fortlauderdaleairshow.com.

Welcome to Swollfest

Years ago as a TV news anchor, I cringed when news managers carelessly tossed around the notion that boating was a rich man’s sport and thus rarely made daily broadcasts about the subject. As a boat owner, I knew better. The majority of boats sold were less than 25 feet, and more affordable used boats outsold new models 80:1. When you did come across a yacht owner, they were your “go-to” people for charity events.

As summer season kicks in along the Gulf Coast, in each community from Texas to Florida, you’ll hopefully see news about local fishing tournaments, or as they say in Grand Isle, Louisiana, rodeos. The annual Swollfest Rodeo, staged out of Sand Dollar Marina, will celebrate 19 years of charitable work this June. As their simple website banner says, “We make a living by what we get, but we make a life by what we give.”

Local dentist Dr. Nick Rauber launched the concept as a teenager and nurtured the fishing rodeo’s growth to some impressive numbers: 600 registered anglers, hundreds of sponsors, 75 volunteers and thousands of attendees who descend on Grand Isle the first weekend of June every year.

This year’s charities are Children’s Hospital at Our Lady of the Lake in Baton Rouge and the Outdoor Wish Foundation (OWF). OWF finds recipients and, unbeknownst to them, learns of their background and begins developing a unique experience for that individual. There are two recipients chosen each year, and one hundred percent of the cost is borne by the all-volunteer OWF.

When you think of some billfish tournaments, large boats come to mind. However, Swollfest’s variety of categories include kayak anglers, children 12 and younger, a women’s division, and the best boat in shore and best boat off shore. These categories help unite all anglers who have a love for ecological conservation, a passion for the competition and a heart to help those in need.

You don’t have to speak with a Cajun accent to compete, but it does help to explain how the rodeo got the name Swollfest. It’s a whimsical take on swell, competition and catching the biggest fish. The fishing tournament takes place June 7-10 and includes nightly musical talent.

Register and learn more at swollfest.com. 

Panama City Marina District redevelopment

Nine months after Panama City selected a developer to revitalize the marina and aging downtown district, the city finally has a plan to review. Some of the most notable changes involve partnerships. Bellingham Marine, one of the world leaders in marina construction, is replacing local favorite Legendary Marine and joining lead designer Sonnenblick Development. Together they envision new environmentally friendly docks, two hotels, a public fishing pier (built with oil spill money), an event lawn, a 10-plex movie theater, two parking garages, restaurants with outdoor dining along the T-dock, residential high-rises, and a lighthouse. Artist renderings also show a boat ramp, but its precise location is expected to be somewhat fluid.

The marina plan includes room for transients with an eye toward tourism. A dedicated water taxi area for transportation to popular nearby St. Andrews Marina will also be included. The plan now goes before several review boards with construction expected to begin after this year’s boating season.

See the America’s Cup in Bermuda

Cruise or race your way from the Caribbean to Bermuda to watch the America’s Cup. The Louis Vuitton America’s Cup Qualifiers start on May 26th off this British Overseas Territory located 1,000 miles from the coast of the Carolinas. Starting on June 17th, the top Challenge will meet defending champions, Oracle Team USA, in the 35th Cup. Cruisers can take their start north on the Salty Dawg Spring Rally. The rally starts on May 15th out of the Nanny Cay Marina in Tortola, B.V.I., after several days of parties, boat preparation and weather briefings. Ralliers will then head to their U.S. port of choice. Linda Knowles, Vice President of the Salty Dawg Sailing Association, says that this year several rally participants are planning to stop in Bermuda for the America’s Cup qualifiers and finale.

Racers can embark on a trip north via the inaugural Antigua to Bermuda Race, which is organized by the Royal Bermuda Yacht Club. Sailors take their start at 12PM on May 12th off Fort Charlotte, Antigua. “Many boats are planning to be in Antigua for our 50th Anniversary Antigua Sailing Week (ASW), April 29th to May 5th. Following this, there will be a week’s grace to make repairs and provision before the start of the 900-nautical mile race to Bermuda,” says Alison Sly-Adams, Commercial Director for ASW. Over 40 yachts are expected to compete, including the magnificent Swan 90, Freya. There are also charters available from companies such as Ondeck, Performance Yacht Charters, Global Yacht Racing and the Bermuda Sloop Foundation. saltydawgsailing.org; antiguabermuda.com

National Marine Suppliers opens at Yacht Haven Grande

Megayacht crews and grand prix race teams now have a new source for everything from provisioning to engineering and deck expertise when in the U.S.V.I. National Marine Suppliers—the Fort Lauderdale, Florida-headquartered yacht suppliers and logistical support group—has opened an office at IGY’s Yacht Haven Grande in St. Thomas. The marina here is a 5-Gold Anchor facility that boasts 46 berths for superyachts up to 656 feet in length and up to an 18-foot draft. Located on the east side of the Charlotte Amalie harbor, Yacht Haven Grande is central to many restaurants, shops and the airport, which offers direct daily flights to several destinations in the U.S. nationalmarine.com; igy-yachthavengrande.com

New Poker Run Circuit

Throttle up and get ready for more fun and more winnings in the new Caribbean Triple Crown Poker Run. This year’s first-ever three-legged circuit kicks off on May 28th for the Leverick Bay Poker Run held off Virgin Gorda in the B.V.I. Then on July 2nd the Stars and Stripes Poker Run takes place out of IGY’s Yacht Grande Marina in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. The cup wraps up on July 16th at the St. Maarten Poker Run hosted out of Isle del Sol Yacht Club in St. Maarten. The winner of all three events will take home $20,000 in cash and prizes and earns the title of IGY Triple Crown Poker Run Cup champion. Nick Willis, who founded the Leverick Bay Poker Run in 2001, says he never thought the event would garner so much recognition and response from powerboaters. “It’s one event, three destinations and the chance to give back to multiple charities,” says Willis. The Caribbean Triple Crown Poker Run is an official member of the Florida Power Boating Club & Poker Runs of America. For more information, contact Javier Lopez at (787) 529-8064 or
j.lopez@caribbeanpokerrun.com.

Hart-Miller Island

There’s more to do these days on the man-made Hart-Miller Island. The transition from dredge dumpsite to wildlife habitat and state park for mariners, birders and others will bloom again this month. Starting May 7th, visitors can rent bicycles, hike on newly cleared trails and participate in recreational programs on the south side of the island.

Hart-Miller is a 1,100-acre island located north of Baltimore near the mouth of Middle River. It is accessible only by boat and is a popular summertime raft-up area in the upper Chesapeake. The western shore offers safe mooring, wading and access to a 3,000-foot sandy beach. In the past, visitors have had access to only the perimeter of the island, but now they will enjoy the previously gated-off areas.

Park staff will be on site five days a week from May through September. The park will be open Thursday through Monday to accommodate weekend traffic and closed Tuesday and Wednesday. The 800-acre north end of the island remains an active construction zone. No more spoils are being deposited there, but workers are drying and processing dredge materials. Eventually, it will be planted with trees and shrubs and will also become a part
of the park.

The DNR will be monitoring visitor traffic to develop a long-range plan for the island. It’s potentially a major draw for birdwatchers because of the many birds that stop over during migrations. Nearly 300 species have been documented on the island, including killdeer, American oystercatchers, black ducks, tundra swans, and downy woodpeckers. dnr2.maryland.gov

Plans for Hatteras Inlet

The Dare County Waterways Commission met this past winter to review updates on the dredging project for Hatteras Inlet on North Carolina’s Outer Banks. The commission’s main goal is keeping open the connecting channel west of the inlet gorge, which maritime traffic has been using. A long-term goal of the commission is to reopen the shorter route east of the gorge. The inlet was especially shallow in February and several fishermen voiced their concern with navigating the channel during low tide.

To provide relief, Dare County hired a consultant to help secure permits for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and the process is projected to have permits this spring. The project will commence under a one-year renewable agreement with the state and the corps.

Suds at the beach

Cruisers overnighting in Virginia Beach can now learn about the fine art of craft brewing, sensibly imbibe some suds and get a ride home without risking a DWI. According to the Taste Virginia website, craft brew tours in Virginia Beach are based on each group’s interests and the availability of venues. Tours generally require at least four guests and last around four hours with three stops. A tour guide can pick you up in their motor coach at your marina or another designated location. Guides provide behind-the-scenes information about local breweries and brewpubs, offer some instruction about the evolution, styles and production of beer, and give tips on how to select and pair beer with food. tastevirginia.com

Bahamas Fishing Tournaments

Bahamas Fishing Tournaments

Many fishing tournaments are held in The Bahamas throughout the year. While the following is certainly not a complete list, it gives some idea of the possibilities for May.

May 17 — May 20
The Shootout
Abaco Beach Resort at Boat Harbor, Great Abaco
Contact skip@skipstournaments.com or visit skipstournaments.com.

May 21 — May 24
Hawk’s Nest 17th Annual Billfish Blast
Contact info@hawks-nest.com or visit hawks-nest.com.

May 31 — June 3
Abaco Beach Blue Marlin Invitational
Abaco Beach Resort at Boat Harbor, Great Abaco
Contact skip@skipstournaments.com or visit skipstournaments.com.

June 3
CAPT. PERCY DARVILLE BOTTOM FISHING TOURNAMENT
Great Harbour Cay Marina, The Berry Islands.
Contact info@greatharbourcaymarina.com or visit bakersbayinvitational.com.

Pigs in a Poke

In February, one of the best-known tourist destinations in the Exumas suffered a surprising tragedy when a number of the swimming pigs at Big Majors Spot died or were killed. Reports vary, but roughly seven to eight pigs were found dead and floating in the water off the island. A number of other pigs were still alive and apparently healthy on shore. At press time, locals were awaiting autopsy results from veterinarians. For those who have photographed and fed these critters we hope there are no further problems, but for now local authorities ask visitors to refrain from feeding the pigs.

Navigation News

The wreck of a stranded barge was reported on the north end of Lynyard Cay along the North Bar Channel entrance to the Sea of Abaco.

Finding Painter’s Paradise

The year was 1887, and the island was Martinique. I’ve come to the quiet, French-speaking island in the Lesser Antilles to find out if Gauguin’s paradise still exists and, perhaps, to be inspired in the process.

Tahiti wasn’t painter Paul Gauguin’s first love. Long before he made the island a famous paradise in his lush artworks, Gauguin had found another Garden of Eden much closer to home—in the Caribbean.

My quest to find Gauguin’s paradise starts in the hotel-studded south, a modern-day paradise of beaches and palm trees. On this bright afternoon, the sun is high and the lagoons glow like Hopi turquoise. I’m skipping over the shallow water in a speedboat with a famous musician, a pair of Brazilian women in string bikinis and a young local woman with a pink flower tucked behind her ear.

Bord de Mer II (Sea Side II) by Gauguin in 1887, private collection.
The writer captures seaside activity more than a century after Gauguin.

I meet Victor O that morning in the busy town of Le Francois. He’s a young guy with a clean-shaven head; a huge grin cracks his beard. He’s amused by my quest to chase Gauguin’s ghost around Martinique, and local pride inspires him to show me the most beautiful natural swimming pool on the island—Josephine’s Bath. “Joséphine was born on a habitacion beyond the mornes,” Victor says as we slalom through a maze of palmetto-tufted islands. He points at a rumpled range of cane-quilted hills to the west. “She was an island girl, and she was Napoleon’s great love. He made her the Empress. Legend says she would come out here to bathe in the seawater.”

The captain tosses the anchor over a submerged sandbar between two islands. We drink planter’s punch, a homemade brew that’s more rum than punch.

“It’s customary here after the first rum that a bikini becomes a monokini,” one of Frenchmen says as he pours a cup and passes it over. “And of course after two rums, well, then the monokini also goes.”

he writer discovers that fruit is used for accessories as well as for paintings.
La Cueillette des Fruits (Among The Mangoes), by Gauguin in 1887, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam

We leap overboard. The water is so clear and the sun so brilliant that even five feet down the rippled sand warms my soles. “It’s probably just a legend that Joséphine came out here,” Victor laughs. “I’m not sure she could even swim.” Whether the legend is true or not, the pool is idyllic. The Brazilians float on their backs while the progressively emptier bottle of rum punch bobs in the waves.

That evening as shadows creep down the mornes I have dinner with my new friends at Soleil Faire. It’s a romantic spot, a Creole house on a hillside overlooking the Empress’ playground. Waiters snap around in pressed black and candles flicker inside hurricane lanterns. “This is the best table on the island,” purrs the woman with the flower behind her ear. “The chef was trained by Alain Ducasse, himself.”

When the plate is presented, I smile and remember a conversation Victor and I had about food. “In Martinique we are French first and Caribbean second, so you can imagine that food is very important to us,” he’d said. “Our cuisine is truly Creole. We combine the generosity of Africa and the spices of India with French savoir faire. No matter if you eat at a beach shack or a Michelin-starred restaurant, the food is always the same, and that is to say, superb.” I chuckle as I carve into my lacquered pigeon.

I head to downtown Fort de France the next day to track down the only address I have for Gauguin. I have an old sketch of his street. The artist’s connection to Martinique is largely unknown even to locals, which is why I’m lucky to find Marie, a French historian. But even she didn’t realize that Gauguin had an address here in town. We set out to find Rue Victor Hugo #30.

Marie is short but moves quickly in a flowing blue and white dress; I dodge pedestrians to keep up. When she talks, her teeth flash in a frame of shaded purple lipstick. “I love all Gauguin’s colors,” she says as we wend our way through a square where an office building with mirrored windows reflects the beige steeple of Cathedrale St. Louis. “When I was young, I wore lots of colors just like the women in his paintings.”

Brightly dressed women straight out of a Gauguin sashay past in ruffles of red, green, orange, and yellow. “We are the only part of France that still wears folk dress, our Madras,” Marie says. “If you wore traditional dress in Brittany today people would laugh at you. Not here. Here we say, ‘good for you.’”

We find #30 near the end of Rue Victor Hugo where it dead-ends into La Savane Park. The white two-story building is wedged between a jewelry store and an osteopathic office. Sunshine slants down on the afternoon shoppers. Now, just as in the 19th-century sketch, the street is bustling. Gauguin kept #30 as his forwarding address, but he quickly set out to wander the island. I decide to do the same.

Perhaps Gauguin used this same luxuriant coast for inspiration.
Martinique Landscape by Gauguin in 1887, Scottish National Gallery.

It’s during my wanderings that I meet Laurent, a local sculptor and painter. He invites me that night to a party at his villa. Gauguin always claimed to have discovered paradise. In one of his first letters home, he gushed about the luxuriant coast:

It’s a paradise on the shore of the isthmus. Below us is the sea, fringed with coconut trees, above, fruit trees of all sorts… Nature is at its most opulent, the climate hot, with cool spells intervening. With a little money you can have all that is needed to be happy.

“Does that Martinique still exist?” I ask the group. “Yes,” Laurent says, pushing his glasses back on his head. “If Gauguin came tonight on the Air France flight, he would find that same beauty, the same colors, the same volcanoes, and sugar cane fields.”

I hitch a northbound ride the next morning, trading the crowded coastal plain for the cooler mountains. The landscape quickly morphs into Gauguin’s Eden. Dense forests crowd overhead and each valley has a small village. The houses all have that lovely state of decay: cracked stucco walls and baked roof tiles furred with moss.

The road eventually slinks below Mount Pelée, and hairpin turns drop us into the rambling town of St. Pierre. When Gauguin arrived a century ago, this port was the most celebrated city in the French West Indies. More than 30,000 people lived here. They promenaded in the latest haute couture from Paris while horsedrawn trams ran along the cobbled streets. The theatre—a replica of the one in Bordeaux—had 1,000 seats. But the town is smaller today with barely 4,000 people. My ride drops me off near the beach where young men build a stage in the shade of sea grape trees. Nearby, women set up food stalls. Every time the sea breeze picks up, their white dresses billow and reveal Madras colors beneath.

One May morning not long after Gauguin left Martinique, Mount Pelée detonated. A nuee ardente (a glowing cloud) exploded down the volcano’s ravines and incinerated St. Pierre and the surrounding villages. Thirty thousand people died—every last person except one drunk in the jail cell.

Down on the promenade I can hear the Zouk music thumping. Today is May 8th, the anniversary of the eruption. Afternoon light gilds the town, and the sailboats speckle the blue bay. Gauguin’s paradise is still here.

CRUISER RESOURCES
Marin’s Yacht Harbour Marina
Le Cul-de-Sac Marin bay (southern Martinique)
Tel.: +596 596 74 83 83
Email: port.marin@wanadoo.fr

-Customs clearance is accessible on computers in marina office (customs office hours 7AM-12:15PM, tel. 05-96-74-91-64)

NOTE: Half a dozen small marinas can be found around Martinique such as the Somatras Marina (tel. 33-596-71-41-81) and Marina La Nepture [no contact info available] in Fort-de-France Bay. There are also many outstanding anchorages. Consult the most recent update of your preferred cruising guide.

Words & photos by Jad Davenport, Southern Boating Magazine March 2017

White Sound and Lubbers Quarters Cay

White Sound and Lubbers Quarters Cay

Hope Town Harbour is one of the most popular destinations in the Abacos for cruisers and tourists. But the harbor and town are only the tip of the iceberg for a visit to Elbow Cay. White Sound is the small body of water near the mid-section of Elbow Cay, just two miles south of Hope Town, which nearly bisects the island. The well-marked entrance channel carries about six feet of water at low tide. Inside the channel there is limited dockage for meals at The Abaco Inn (abacoinn.com). The marked channel continues due south from the inn to Sea Spray Resort and Marina (seasprayresort.com). Both facilities have excellent food at their respective restaurants, along with many other amenities. There is little room to anchor inside White Sound, but in settled weather cruisers can anchor just outside and south of the White Sound channel and take the tender inside.

Continuing south from White Sound between Elbow Cay and Lubbers Quarters Cay to the west, the deepest water is narrow but passable for most cruising boats if you read the water and proceed carefully. As you approach the southern end of Elbow Cay, an excellent anchorage will open up to port of the channel, extending south to Tahiti Beach. Look for a sandy patch between the sea grasses to drop your hook. Tahiti Beach at the southern tip of Elbow Cay borders on Tilloo Cut and provides a reasonably good pass to the ocean. Plan your visit to Tahiti Beach for mid to low tide when the long white sandbar is exposed. Fish the edge of the cut from the beach where you’re likely to spot fish, turtles, rays, and even a large shark patrolling Tilloo Cut. The beach is a popular picnic spot, and the eastern side offers good beachcombing and shelling.

The short dinghy ride from the Tahiti Beach anchorage to Lubbers Quarters Cay is well worth the trip to visit Cracker P’s, one of the best beach bars and restaurants in The Bahamas. There is plenty of room here to tie up a large center console tender; drop a stern anchor and nose the bow up to the dock. Local legend has it that the place is named for Paul John “Cracker Pinder” Simmons, a fugitive from Georgia who settled here around 1915 and eked out a living from fishing and gardening. Today, you will find an elevated bar and deck with great views of Tahiti Beach and Tilloo Cut, volleyball and bocce courts, excellent food, monthly full moon parties and, perhaps, the longest rum list in the area. crackerps.com

Bahamas Yacht and Travel Show

The second annual Bahamas Yacht and Travel Show will be held June 22-25, 2017, at Bay Street Marina in Nassau, Bahamas. Sponsored by The Bahamas Tourist Office (bahamas.com) and Boat4ADay (boat4aday.com), the weekend event will showcase Bahamas-based luxury charter yachts, boutique hotels, private island villas, and travel experiences, plus handmade crafts, art and designer resort clothing. Boat4ADay specializes in day charters with online booking and can arrange yachts in The Bahamas and throughout the Caribbean. The organizers are planning a fun getaway for families with live music, activities and entertainment throughout the weekend.
bahamas-yacht-and-travel-show.com

A Different Type of Venice

A visit to this sleepy, seaside city invites equestrian-minded cruisers to experience “horse power” at its best.

When someone mentions a trip to Venice, it’s probable that the famous Italian city comes to mind. A close second would be Venice, California, with its beachy, boardwalk vibe. But in the Venice on Florida’s southern Gulf coast, you’ll find artistry of another kind and beaches that rank among America’s top rated. Once you see it for yourself, you’ll find this Venice remains all at once mysterious and inviting.

Venice offers 14 miles of sweeping shoreline that brushes up against the Gulf of Mexico. The beaches curate history, and along them you’ll find barefoot beachcombers diligently sifting through the sand as they search for gray, brown and black fossilized shark teeth. The city rests upon a fossil layer that dates back thousands of years to the time when the whole of Florida was under water. This makes Venice’s beaches one of the best places to find these fossilized artifacts and reaffirms the city’s claim to the moniker of “Shark Tooth Capital of the World.”

Not far from the beach, Venice Avenue’s architecture is inspired by classic Mediterranean design, which echoes in the brightly colored pink stucco buildings. You won’t find any chain stores here. Instead, a nice variety of boutique shops sell everything from nautical novelties to shark teeth necklaces. Venice’s orderly and well-planned design renders the coastal city as one of the most biker-friendly vacation spots in the state. Check out the Venetian Waterway Park as well as the Legacy Trail to avoid cars altogether and experience a scenic, peaceful ride through winding neighborhoods and shady foliage.

Venice is also a haven for cruisers. The Crow’s Nest Marina, located right inside the Venice Inlet, caters to transients and is one of the best places to dock the boat overnight. With Venice Beach only 200 yards away, the beachcombers and sun worshippers in your crew have easy access to the shoreline.

One of Venice’s best-kept secrets, however, is its quietly growing equestrian community. Florida is widely known for all things equine, from the Winter Equestrian Festival (the world’s largest horse show) in Wellington to the rolling pastures of Ocala, but it’s about time to add Venice to the list.

The family-run Fox Lea Farm (foxleafarm.com) is helping Venice rise in the rankings as a top equestrian mecca. The sprawling farm hosts dozens of horse shows annually and draws hundreds of spectators and participants to the area. Vendors arrive as well and help pump almost $75 million a year into the local economy, according to the Sarasota County Sports Commission.

Even though the facility draws some of the sport’s fiercest competitors, including multiple Olympians, the atmosphere fostered by Venice lends to a more relaxed, low-key setting. The increasing prestige of the show will test whether Venice will be able to keep its down-home soul, but for the people who visit and compete here, the venue remains a popular favorite. For many competitors, showing at Fox Lea Farm and being able to benefit from the Venice area brings a nice change of pace to their frequently hectic show routine.

If you’re looking to see the up-and-coming showgrounds, heading down Auburn Road will lead you right to the farm’s entrance. The long driveway is framed by shady foliage that eventually clears and allows for views of the show rings and multiple pastures. You’ll probably be able to spot a child trying to coax a stubborn pony to behave or see the larger show horses grazing peacefully along the driveway.

The Fox Lea show circuit caters to riders that participate in hunters, equitation and show jumping. Each discipline offers entertainment for every spectator, although sometimes knowing what you’re watching beforehand can help you better enjoy the experience. A hunter class will judge the horse as it goes around a series of jumps, while an equitation class will judge the rider on their position and ability to make every jump look effortless. In a show jumping class, the jumps are normally larger than in the other disciplines. The winner is determined by the fastest time around the course, which always leads to an edge-of-your-seat experience for the audience.

The United States Equestrian Federation (USEF) has approved Fox Lea to launch a brand new six-week winter circuit called the Venice Equestrian Tour (VET). The circuit begins on January 25th and will continue through March 5th. Each circuit “week” begins on Wednesday and ends on Sunday, meaning that competitors (and showgoers alike) will be able to experience everything Venice has to offer during their days off. Each week will also showcase a $25,000 Grand Prix that will include participants as famous in the equestrian world as Michael Jordan is in basketball.

Part of the reason for Fox Lea’s success is the quiet atmosphere of Venice. The farm draws equine enthusiasts from around the country who love to “showcation” and are looking to combine both turf and surf. When things around the showgrounds settle down on Sunday afternoon, many of the show’s participants and riders head to the beach or their boats for a few days to relax, rest and recharge before another week at the show begins.

The Venice Municipal Beach is as delightful as the surrounding town. It features wide, open stretches of sand as far as the eye can see, and there’s no shortage of things to do. Instructors offer free yoga sessions each morning starting at 8AM that are perfect for beginners. If yoga isn’t your thing, there’s also the option to rent personal watercraft and toys for the day. To search for the area’s famous shark teeth, venture on over to Caspersen Beach, which features direct access to the Venetian Waterway Trail.

Recharge and participate in a Venice tradition by grabbing a drink and some fresh fish tacos at Sharky’s on the Pier. This seafood restaurant serves great seafood in an atmosphere as relaxed as the beach. Afterward, head on out to the end of the pier to try your hand at fishing or just admire the view. The sunrise and sunset in Venice are both noteworthy, and the pier is a perfect place to catch glimpses of both after a long day. When you wake up the next morning, you can do it all over again.

CRUISER RESOURCES:
Marinas:

The Crows Nest

1968 Tarpon Center Drive

(941) 484-7661 • crowsnest-venice.com

Fisherman’s Wharf Marina

509 North Tamiami Trail

(941) 486-0500 • fishermanswharffl.com

The Venice Yacht Club

1330 Tarpon Center Drive

(941) 488-7708 • veniceyachtclub.com

 

Dining:
Luna Ristorante

200 Saint Augustine Avenue • (941) 412-9898

Sharky’s on the Pier

1600 Harbor Drive South

(941) 488-1456 • sharkysonthepier.com

By Susanna Botkin, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017

Secret Getaways

Soak in the solitude.

The secret may be out on these tropical getaways, but rest assured—you’ll still feel like you’re on your own private island because…well, some are private islands.

The only criterion for our list of hidden getaways is blue-green water, deserted white-sand beaches and solitude. Bonus points if you can arrive by boat and avoid air travel.

Whether it’s an uninhabited island in The Bahamas or a quiet stretch of Caribbean beach, these hidden hideaways are sure to please.

Kamalame Cay
Bahamas

Kamalame Cay is a small barrier island located in Andros. With spectacular views of the Atlantic and copious natural attractions, Kamalame Cay has the feel of your own private island.

Lie on the beach with a book or try flats fishing, but whatever you do—enjoy it.

For more information: kamalame.com

Carriacou
Grenadines

Nickmamed ‘Land of Reefs’, Carriacou is located in the southeastern Caribbean Sea, northeast of Grenada. The island boasts some of the best snorkeling and diving spots in the region.

You’ll surely find quiet and solitude in one of more than 33 dive sites, but be sure to bring a buddy.

For more information: grenadagrenadines.com/

Fowl Cay
Bahamas

This private island in the Bahamas has only six (yes, six) villas along sugar sand shores. Each private villa comes with its own boat and lessons on how to operate it. Over uninhabited 50 acres provide ample opportunities to relax and unwind.

Staniel Cay is an easy boat ride away if you began to yearn for the company of others.

For more information: fowlcay.com/

Little Harbor, Great Abaco

From throwback resorts in Little Harbor, Great Abaco to stingray feeding experiences to Bahamian Track & Field, the islands are sure to delight!

Little Harbor, Great Abaco

Popular with both land- and sea-based visitors to the Abacos, Little Harbor sits at the southern end of the Sea of Abaco and offers a slice of life in The Bahamas much as it used to be. This is a small but very protected harbor with a narrow entrance. Recent reports from cruisers suggest approach depths of 3-4 feet at low tide with a tidal range of 2-3 feet, and a series of red and green markers indicate the channel. Once inside, Pete’s Pub offers dockage for smaller boats and moorings with plenty of depth for most cruising boats. Some space remains for anchoring with good holding and excellent protection. Ample dinghy access to shore is available at Pete’s docks or on the white sand beach. Other than the pub and gallery, there are no services here. This means no shopping, fuel, water, or garbage collection, so cruisers need to be self-sufficient.

Randolph Johnston, his wife and their three sons first established the family compound here in 1951. An artist and educator from the United States, Johnston and his family arrived on his schooner seeking an escape from the pressures of the “real” world and a place to practice his art in the Caribbean. Johnston’s primary medium was bronze casting, and within a few years he was casting sculptures using the centuries-old and very complex now-lost wax process. He established the Johnston Studio & Foundry here on this small, nearly uninhabited peninsula and built an international reputation and following.

Today, under the guidance of Johnston’s youngest son, Peter, the foundry continues to operate. They provide workshops and apprenticeships for Bahamian artists and maintain an extensive gallery. Peter is an accomplished sculptor whose work focuses on local marine life. When a casting operation is about to take place, Peter will announce it on the morning Abaco VHF net, and visitors are welcome to attend and witness the creation of this difficult art form.

Meanwhile, next door at Pete’s Pub, Pete and his son Greg operate a true vintage beach bar. It’s reason enough to visit the harbor. An extensive and varied menu of seafood dishes, burgers and some of the best rum drinks around make this a great place to stay and chill for a while. Regular pig roasts for special occasions are well worth planning a trip. Take a dinghy ride to the rocks on the west side of the harbor and clamber around the caves where the Johnston family first resided. They even shared their space with bats. Be sure to visit the ruins of the lighthouse that, for decades, led mariners through the Little Harbor Cut from the Atlantic into the Sea of Abaco. facebook.com/Petes-Pub-Gallery144337852300293/

Stingray feeding experience

Keith and Linda Cooper, residents of West End, Grand Bahama, are offering a unique aquatic experience at Sandy Cay. Hand feeding stingrays may seem dangerous, or at least a little foolish. But this is a safe and photogenic opportunity to experience one of the most recognizable forms of sea life in The Bahamas. Sandy Cay is just a few miles offshore from Grand Bahama Island’s West End. The Cooper’s “Stingray Feeding Experience” starts at West End with a 25-minute boat ride to the Cay. Keith will spend as much time as necessary with his clients in the water to develop their confidence and familiarity with these gentle creatures. This is not simply tossing food to the stingray. Instead, you hold the food in your hand and rest it palm up on the bottom of the shallows. The stingray will approach and suck the fish from your fingers. You barely feel the action, but the body of the stingray is just inches from your face. A GoPro or still camera will capture images to shock and impress your friends back home. Sandy Cay is a wildlife lover’s paradise with flocks of ducks, herons, pelicans, and a variety of sea life. Your visit will show you a bit of the old Bahamas.

IAAF track competition 

Cruisers to The Bahamas who are fans of field and track competitions have a rare opportunity this month. The Bahamas are known internationally for their success in track events, particularly for their men’s relay teams. At the 2016 Rio Olympics, Shaunea Miller brought home a surprise gold medal in the women’s 400m and the men’s 400m relay team took bronze. The prominence of Bahamian track athletes, along with the world-class hospitality of the islands, explains why the country will host the IAAF World Relays for the third consecutive year. The competition will be held at the Thomas A. Robinson National Stadium in Nassau April 22-23, 2017. Events for both men and women at multiple distances will earn automatic berths in the World Championships for the top teams. Tickets can be purchased online at nsa-bahamas.com.

Words & photos by Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine April 2017

Florida Gulf Updates April 2017

Sand ‘Fantaseas’, new electronic boat shuttles, lingering Red Tide effects and more in the Florida Gulf Updates April 2017.

Sugar Sand Fantasea 

Anyone with children understands Sand Castle Construction 101. However, put those same tools, including buckets and shovels, in the talented hands of 11 world-class sand sculptors and you’ll get an end result that’s worthy of PhDs in both art and engineering. On April 14-23, Clearwater Beach will host the 5th Annual Sugar Sand Walk Exhibit. The event takes place just a block from the city marina at Pier 60. The theme changes every year, meaning you’re unlikely to see the same sculpture twice. Sugar Sand Fantasea, a Magical Adventure Above and Below the Sea is the theme for the 10-day event that features sand-sculpting classes, live entertainment, crafters, street performers, fireworks, and a sand-sculpting contest with a prize of over $6,000 to the winner. While the events are free, there is an admission charge for access to the Sugar Sand Walk. The fee is $10 for adults and $8 for adults 55 and over. sugarsandfestival.com

Free lift for Sarasota cruisers

Sarasota’s developing downtown district is only three blocks away from Marina Jack. But after a full day of browsing the artisan shops, stopping for a cappuccino at one of the many colorful sidewalk cafes and a gourmet dinner, a ride back to the boat may be in order. Sarasota has approved seven electric shuttles that carry six passengers each. Ferry tourists and residents alike can take advantage of the new ride option throughout the downtown district. This new feature is part of a city-funded plan to reduce motor vehicle congestion on the roads. The upcoming $339,000 project includes an app to hail a ride from the service and will be called Gotcha Ride.

Bay scallops – St. Joseph Bay

The residual effects of a prolonged 2015 Red Tide outbreak is anticipated to once again impact the annual Bay Scallop season in Florida’s Panhandle. The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commissioners (FWC) approved a recreational bay scallop season lasting from July 25th through September 10th off Gulf County. This also includes all waters in St. Joseph Bay as well as those west of St. Vincent Island in Franklin County through the Mexico Beach Canal in Bay County.

Bag and vessel limits throughout the entire bay scallop harvest zone will be capped at two gallons of whole bay scallops in shell, or one pint of bay scallop meat per person, with a maximum of 10 gallons of whole bay scallops in shell, or a 1/2 gallon of bay scallop meat per vessel.

FWC researchers conducted a scallop restoration project last year within St. Joseph Bay to help speed the recovery of the scallop population. Scientists reported these efforts have been going well, and the scallop population has shown signs of improvement. Still to be decided are dates for the season in nearby Dixie and Taylor Counties.

Caribbean Update

What are the biggest Caribbean Updates? Superyacht marinas, classic sailing races, Easter cruising and more!  

Beautiful white sand beaches, bountiful French and Dutch cuisine, and a bevy of land and sea activities ranging from horseback riding on the beach to day-sails to uninhabited islands are just a few of what draw millions of visitors each year to the dual-island nation of St. Maarten-St. Martin. Now, yachtsmen can add another reason to their list. Island Global Yachting (IGY) Marinas 5-Gold Anchor Marina, Yacht Club at Isle del Sol, is the recipient of the 2017 Superyacht Marina of the year award. There are several good reasons to pull in for a visit. On the logistical side, the well-constructed concrete slips offer grade A fuel, water, two 100-amp receptacles (with a choice of 110V or 480V), complimentary satellite TV, and high-speed Internet. A recent major dredging project allows room for superyachts with up to 17.5-ft drafts. On the self-indulgent side is the on-site Caribbean-vibe Fat Turtle restaurant, as well as a swimming pool and tennis courts. Other eateries, shopping and entertainment complexes are close by. igy-isledesol.com

Classics set sail in Antigua

Feel like you’re back in the bygone days of Caribbean sailing at the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta. Set for April 19-25 and hosted out of the Antigua Yacht Club in Falmouth Harbour, this year’s 30th anniversary event features a fantastic array of competitors. The watercraft ranges from traditional island boats and classic ketches, sloops, schooners, and yawls to majestic Tall Ships, J class and spirit-of-tradition yachts from throughout the Caribbean and the world. One newcomer this year is the 112-foot, three-masted Spirit of Bermuda, a 2006-launched purpose-built sail training vessel constructed in the manner of 19th century civilian schooners. Other eye-candy entries include the USA-based 115-foot, 1939-build Staysail Schooner Eros; the Netherlands-homeported 2012 157-foot, Klaus Rodner Staysail Ketch Chronos; and France’s Mariette of 1915, a 137-foot Herreshoff gaff-rigged schooner built in the year of its name. Spectators can enjoy a great view of all four days of racing from Fort Charlotte, Shirley Heights and the Block House. Those who have only one day to visit should do so on Sunday, April 23rd for the Parade of Classics. This is when an incredible line-up of some of the most awe-inspiring vessels set sail at 1:30PM off Nelson’s Dockyard. It’s definitely history-making in modern day. antiguaclassics.com

Hop down to Virgin Gorda for Easter

The Easter holiday is party time in Virgin Gorda, the second largest of the inhabited B.V.I. Parades, live bands, food fairs, and comely queens are all on tap for the 50th anniversary of the island’s Easter Festival set for April 8-17. A big part of the fun for sea lovers is the two-day Fisherman’s Jamboree tournament on April 15-16. Bring your own boat or charter. Vessels like Capt. Donnell Flax’s 42′ Bertram Big Ting make a great platform to fish the productive sea mount south of the island. Anglers catching the top three heaviest wahoo win prizes. Hosted out of the Fischer’s Cove Beach Hotel & Reef Restaurant, fishermen and their families can enjoy a wrap-up dinner and awards ceremony. fischerscove.com

—By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine April 2017

SUP? West Marine Carolina Cup

SUP, y’all? The West Marine Carolina Cup, that’s SUP. 

Wrightsville Beach, North Carolina, becomes “SUP Central” April 19-23 with the world’s largest Stand-Up Paddle Board Race. In its seventh year, the 2017 West Marine Carolina Cup is expected to draw more than 900 paddlers to compete. Race organizers list five courses: a kid’s race, the Harbor Island Recreational “fun” race, Money Island open race, the six-man outrigger race, and the renowned Graveyard Elite Race. The event also features clinics with something for everyone from beginning paddlers to the experienced.

You won’t want to miss this five-day beach SUP Festival and Expo with fun for the whole family.

Additional information is available at wrightsvillebeachpaddleclub.com/carolina-cup.

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