Seagrass Struggling Years After Heatwave

Seagrass Struggling to Revive

Massive seagrass beds in Western Australia’s Shark Bay—a UNESCO World Heritage Site—haven’t recovered much from the devastating heat wave of 2011, according to a new study demonstrating how certain vital ecosystems may change drastically in a warming climate.

The peer-reviewed research, recently published in Marine Ecology Progress Series, was led by Dr. Rob Nowicki, a Mote Marine Laboratory postdoctoral research fellow, who conducted the fieldwork while earning his doctorate from Florida International University (FIU). Dr. Michael Heithaus, dean of FIU’s College of Arts & Sciences, and colleagues from multiple institutions have examined Shark Bay’s ecosystem for more than 20 years. The current study included partners from FIU, Deakin University in Australia and Nova Southeastern University in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.

Shark Bay earned its World Heritage status, in part, because of its 1,853 square miles of seagrass beds, which UNESCO’s website calls the “richest in the world.” This vast, subtropical ecosystem hosts thousands of large sharks, other fish, sea turtles, bottlenose dolphins, and a critical population of dugongs, plant-eating mammals related to manatees.

“We were studying a relatively pristine ecosystem, but in summer 2011, we had the hottest water temperatures on record at the time, and we saw 70 to 90 percent losses of seagrasses at our study sites; no one expected it to be that bad,” Nowicki said. “After our colleagues documented the losses, we wanted to know how much the ecosystem might recover over a few years. If you take a punch and get up quickly, you’re ready for the next punch. But our study has suggested this system took a punch, and in the short term, it has not gotten back up.”

The researchers surveyed 63 sites in Shark Bay four times between 2012 and 2014 to assess seagrass recovery and changes. Before the heat wave, many sites were dominated by the temperate seagrass known as “wireweed” (Amphibolis antarctica), whose dense and tall thickets provide ample food and shelter for numerous species. The heat wave drastically thinned many wireweed beds, and in many places their
rhizomes (underground stems) blackened and died, leaving bare sand.

The new study showed that surviving A. antarctica beds appeared stable but didn’t reclaim much turf. Instead, the tropical seagrass Halodule uninervis, a close relative of the shoalgrass native to Florida, began filling the gaps. H. uninervis was spotted at 2 percent of sites in 2012 but had expanded to almost 30 percent of them by 2014.

“The seagrass hit hard was the most common species—and was dense like a mini forest,” said Heithaus, doctoral advisor to Nowicki and co-author of the study. “Losing that cover is really huge; it’s like going from a bushland in Africa to a well-mowed lawn.”

The loss of that much structure has consequences. “After the die-off, we also saw water clarity go down a ton,” Nowicki said. Fewer seagrasses were available to trap sediments, and decaying seagrass may have nourished a bloom of microscopic algae observed in 2014. Study authors say these ramifications aren’t surprising given the valuable ecosystem services healthy seagrass beds provide.

A scientist measures the growth of seagrass that is in the process of recovery from a 2011 heat wave.

Seagrass beds stabilize sediments, preventing erosion and clarifying water. More seagrass biomass can store more carbon dioxide, decreasing its availability to harm ecosystems through climate change and ocean acidification. Dense seagrass beds are also critical for economically important fisheries. Seagrass meadows are valued at $1.9 trillion worldwide just for their role in cycling nutrients, according to a 2009 study by others in Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. However, major seagrass ecosystems around the world have declined by about 7 percent per year since 1990, reminiscent of the drop in coral reefs and other vital ecosystems.

In Shark Bay, beds of slow-growing A. antarctica seagrass may struggle to recover further, the study suggests. Shark Bay, located where temperate and tropical ecosystems overlap, is among the warmest areas that A. antarctica can occupy, and hotter temperatures are predicted to become more common with climate change.

Because of its temperate-tropical overlap, Shark Bay has a diverse group of about 12 seagrass species—roughly twice as many as the entire state of Florida. Its diversity survives, along with other key features that helped earn the site’s World Heritage status.

It’s imperative to continue investigating how the recent loss of some seagrass, a basis of the marine food web, will affect plant-eating animals and their predators in Shark Bay.

Some take-home messages are clear: It’s critical to monitor ecosystems well after a disturbance; they’re not guaranteed to bounce back. “It shows the importance of these long-term, comprehensive, ecosystem-level studies,” said Heithaus, referring to team efforts to examine Shark Bay. “If we hadn’t been doing this since 1997, we wouldn’t have had the baseline data to know that the declines were a big deal.”

Also, if relatively pristine seagrass beds of Shark Bay are vulnerable to extreme weather, then it’s unclear how seagrass beds damaged by human activity will fare in the coming decades. This seagrass struggling is an indicator that humans need to be aware of these occurances.

Nowicki said that minimizing local stressors, such as nutrient pollution from fertilizer runoff into bays and estuaries, may give seagrasses better odds amid climate change and other global stressors. “If Shark Bay had poorer water quality, we might have lost a lot more.”

By Mote Marine Laboratory and Aquarium for Southern Boating Magazine June 2017

A Musical Awakening in Curaçao

Curaçao awakens the senses

According to a number of scientific studies, the brain of a person who’s born blind or deaf has the ability to rewire itself to heighten other senses such as taste, touch or smell. This phenomenon is referred to as cross-modal neuroplasticity and theorizes that because the part of the brain designated to interpret the sense does not function, it transforms that part of the neural system for other purposes. Some have even compared it to a sort of “superpower” for the blind and deaf.

About 20 years ago I lost my sense of smell (aka “smell-blind,” “nose blind” or anosmia). There are some scents I miss (flowers, wine), while there are others I’m glad are gone (no need to clarify). But it wasn’t until the 2018 North Sea Jazz Festival on Curaçao that I noticed some of my other senses had become stronger, or, perhaps, more refined, and I was astonished when another “sense” was completely reawakened.

ABC Islands

In the Caribbean’s Leeward Antilles, Caribbean cruisers can comfortably ride out the hurricane season on Curaçao (pronounced cure-ah-souw). The largest of the ABC islands, Curaçao is 40 miles from the coast of Venezuela and flanked by n Aruba to the west and Bonaire to the east. The self-governing islands were formerly part of Netherlands Antilles (the Dutch arrived in 1634), and the most frequent visitors come from Holland, other parts of Europe and South America. The primary languages spoken are Dutch and Papiamento, a Creole language that combines Dutch, French, Spanish, Portuguese, Arawak, and African languages. English is also widely spoken, but it is always appreciated when visitors attempt to use at least a few phrases in the local language.

“Music can change the world because it can change people.” -Bono

Since all three of the ABC islands were formerly part of Netherlands Antilles, their characteristic architecture is similar. Tropical-hued buildings with steep, red-tiled roofs line the harbor and colonial Old Town streets of Curaçao’s capital, Willemstad. Every souvenir shop displays a variety of products hand-painted with the artist-worthy street scene, and you’ll discover it’s impossible not to photograph it for yourself from every possible angle. The buildings’ colors always look fresh and bright because they’re repainted about every six months due to the salt air that denigrates the paint. A few blocks in from the harbor, creative paintings adorn building walls, tree branches are carved into figures and in a park, an upside-down boat is decorated to look like a huge, fancy fish. In other cities or areas of the world, all these colorful stimuli would seem like discarded junk, but somehow, here on Curaçao, the vibrant colors and textures kindle and inspire future art projects.

Historical Sites

No cruiser should leave Curaçao without a visit to the Aloe Vera Plantation since most of the products sold in the U.S. actually contain very little aloe in them. The aloe plant has its origins in Egypt, and it’s generally thought that Christopher Columbus introduced the plant to the Caribbean and New World. Aloe plants need very little water and only 5 acres of the 10-acre farm are planted, yet there are more than 100,000 plants. Each plant must grow for at least two years after which stalks are harvested twice yearly. I sampled a piece of the gelatinous raw aloe—it’s cool and chewy but has no taste—and then applied the raw liquid to my skin, which immediately felt more hydrated.

Food & Drink

Cruising in the Caribbean offers a myriad of opportunities to sample locally grown food and drink. A guided tour of the Genuine Curaçao Liqueur Distillery is not only fascinating but also offers free samples at the end. The liqueur is made from sun-dried orange peels and distilled in the original copper still that’s been used since 1896. The finished liqueur is a clear liquid, and then color and flavors are added. Imitation products have attempted to replicate the Genuine Curaçao Liqueur (certified kosher) made by N.V. Senior & Co., but the original comes in a patented glass bottle with bumps on it—like an orange peel.

Music Everywhere

For me, the three nights of the Curaçao North Sea Jazz Festival revealed the most noticeable difference in my senses. In spite of the event’s name, since its first edition in 2010, the artists featured are from many music genres—hip-hop, rap, latin, rock, reggae, dance, disco, you name it. I was initially most excited to hear KC and The Sunshine Band, but I soon tired of the crowd and heat in front of the outdoor stage.

I wandered to another venue in one of the air-conditioned tents where there were many open seats. On the stage were three backup singers, several musicians and 90-year-old Burt Bacharach sitting on a bench at a grand piano singing songs I remembered from childhood: Alfie, I Say a Little Prayer, The Look of Love, What the World Needs Now. Burt’s frail shoulders were hunched over the keyboard and his voice a little wobbly at times, but the notes and lyrics recalled memories of hearing the songs in the living room of my childhood home, where we’d play vinyl albums on the console stereo and listen together as a family.

The songs were written during a much different time in our world, but I feel the lyrics are still relevant today. Five decades have passed since many of them were first written, and a litany of experiences, most of which are good, are mixed in with those decades. In those moments of listening to Burt in a tent on Curaçao, I’m acutely aware that my sense of time passed has never been stronger.

To plan your 2019 cruising calendar around live music events, go to southernboating.com/music-fests for a list of 2019 music festivals accessible by boat.

Cruiser Resources

Barbara Beach Marina
15 slips available up to 200’
+5999.840.0050
santabarbaraplantation.com

Curaçao Yacht Club
108 boats less than 80′
Closest to the town of all marinas, just a 10-minute drive from Willemstad
+5999.767.4627 or 767.3038
curacaoyachtclub.com

Kima Kalki Marina
Small, private marina in Jan Thiel area on the eastern side of Curaçao
Fits about 40 boats up to 80′
+5999.767.3014
kimakalkimarina.com

Palapa Marina
+5999.562.5435
palapacuracao.com

Seru Boca Marine
Near Santa Barbara Beach and Golf Resort
135 slips up to 100′
+5999.840.0050
santabarbaraplantation.com

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating December 2018
Photos courtesy of Curaçao Tourism Board and Liz Pasch

Belize, It’s UnBelizeable!

It’s UnBelizeable!

There is a lengthy list of sensible reasons why Belize belongs on the must-do list when it comes to Caribbean cruising. First, a two-hour flight from the United States to Belize City makes it easy to travel to, English is the official language and it is one of the most affordable destinations in the Caribbean—the U.S. dollar is widely accepted and is worth twice the Belizean dollar. Second (or fourth, depending on how you count), electricity is the same as in the U.S., and you can drink the water. But most of all, besides all of the sensible reasons to visit Belize, the country’s overwhelming draw is the natural beauty of its islands, waters and rainforests, along with its intriguing Mayan culture, all of which are wrapped up in an intoxicatingly relaxed way of life.

Belize is the pioneer of sustainable tourism and, proud of its abundance of natural wonders, it pampers them and shows them off well. Boating on ancient Mayan waterways brings one close to water birds and crocodiles. The country is chock-full of limestone caves and sinkholes to hike and swim in, some of which even contain Mayan treasures. Belize has a baboon sanctuary and one of the only jaguar preserves in the world. Howler monkeys and toucans peer out of its verdant rainforests. With hundreds of offshore islands, beachcombing, diving, snorkeling, and boating are superb.

The more than 321,000 people of Belize come from eight distinct cultures: Maya, Mestizo, Creole, Garifuna, East Indian, German Mennonite, Arab, and Chinese, all of which add their distinct seasoning to the dish of Belizean music, cuisine and art. The Mayan culture is ever present. From 250-900 A.D. the mathematically brilliant Mayan civilization flourished in Central America leaving 1,400 archeological sites in Belize. Day tripping to sites before or after cruising or island hopping is easy since Belize is only 185 miles long and 75 miles wide. Hotels and charter companies are happy to arrange excursions.

Boat travel up winding rivers to both Altun Ha and Lamanai in Northern Belize is a treat. Altun Ha—Mayan for “water of the rock”—was a small but important ceremonial and trading center located 31 miles north of Belize City where archeologists found the largest Mayan carved jade object, a jade head. Lamanai (“submerged crocodile” in Mayan) appears out of the rainforest after a 26-mile boat ride on the New River. It is famous for a stela of a Mayan ruler wearing a crocodile headdress. The Mayans occupied this site for 3,000 years.

Landlubbers are content to stay ashore, but mariners come to life on the water and Belize has plenty of that. Along its entire Caribbean coastline lays the longest unbroken barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere—a UNESCO World Heritage site. More than 100 species of coral and 500 species of fish call the area home. Eight protected marine reserves, including the famous Blue Hole—a 1,000-foot-wide sinkhole in the sea—provide SCUBA divers and snorkelers wondrous guided experiences year round.

Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye are the largest and most populated islands of Belize. Ambergris Caye, with the town of San Pedro, is a little livelier than Caye Caulker where the motto “Go Slow” says it all. Both places have access to the mainland with $20 round-trip water taxis (45 minutes) and $138 round-trip Tropic Air flights (15 minutes). The charter company TMM is based in San Pedro, Ambergris Caye. Both islands are good places to provision, gas up and top off the water tank. Required diving and snorkel guides are available on both islands for visits to several nearby marine reserves.

Ragamuffin Tours on Caye Caulker offers the unique experience of sailing on an authentic Belizean sailing sloop all day, visiting Hol Chan Reserve, Coral Gardens and Shark Ray Alley sites for only $70. Included meals could be stewed chicken, coconut rice or freshly-made shrimp ceviche washed down with rum punch mixed in an oversized water jug. Dolphins play with the sloop’s bow wave en route to snorkel adventures with nurse sharks, stingrays, sea turtles, blue tangs, moray eels, goatfish, trunk fish, blueheads, butterfly fish, and the list goes on. Ragamuffin insists that all footwear be left at the dock before departure. By the time the pile of flip-flops are returned, life is seen in a better light!

All beaches on Ambergris and Caulker are public and plenty of fish swim just offshore. A favorite place for mingling with people and fish on Caye Caulker is at The Split. This small channel separates the island and it is here that people hang out all day at the Lazy Lizard Bar. Snorkel in the morning with starfish, eat curried lobster, coconut rice and beans with a Belikin Beer for lunch, and then return to the water where a float is the perfect means of transportation.

Life becomes more peaceful as one travels down the coast to the Placencia Peninsula in southern Belize. Uninhabited islands provide dot-to-dot sailing in uncluttered water. From April to June people come to swim with whale sharks, and drums beat during the celebration of the Garifuna in November, but most of the time tranquility is the main attraction.

Chartering a catamaran for a week in Belize is possible through Sunsail and The Moorings based in Placencia, TMM Yacht Charters on Ambergris Caye, and other local charter companies. Whether you bareboat or hire a captain and crew, charter is a great way to experience Belizean waters. Just keep in mind that charter companies insist that bareboaters stay within the barrier reef unless accompanied by a local captain. Navigational aids are sparse and navigation by sight with a bow watch is highly recommended due to “skinny” waters and coral reefs. The place is remote beyond the cayes and communication is sketchy at times on both cellphone and VHF. Gas, water, ice, and provisions should be conserved since replenishment is spotty. On the bright side, the barrier reef protects sailors from ocean swells, and trade winds almost guarantee 20 knots of wind every day. The Cruising Guide to Belize and Mexico’s Caribbean Coast by Freya Rauscher (3rd Edition) is the guide of choice and can be ordered from info@windmillhillbooks.com. Most companies provide copies onboard but TMM and The Moorings give a copy to charters.

Perhaps “Mother Nature’s Best Kept Secret” is less of a secret now. Once this country’s natural playground is experienced it could be said, “It’s unBelizeable!”

Nancy E. Spraker, Southern Boating September 2013

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