Get Smart with NAUTIC-ON

Get smart with NAUTIC-ON for your perfect day on the water

What makes a day perfect for boating? Some say just a pair of skis and a towline, some say the blues need to be biting. Others claim it’s a combination of clear fall weather and a day spent at anchor.

To Rick, a perfect day was simple. It meant sunshine, a cruise with his buddies and a few drinks. What Rick didn’t realize was that a perfect day also includes a functioning boat.

Rick assumed everything was fine. He had left his boat on a mooring in one of Chicago’s numerous harbors. He had bought the beer and rounded up the usual suspects. But, unbeknownst to him, something was wrong.

Breathe a sigh of relief. Your engine is fine.

His boat was taking on copious amounts of water. That caused the bilge pump to run nonstop which, in turn, either ran down the battery or caused the pump to blow from overuse. Whatever the cause of the pump’s collapse, it caused the boat to sink. So, instead of a day spent on the water with his buddies, it was a day spent calling (and paying for) a tow service to refloat and haul the boat.

It’s too bad that Rick’s bilge pump couldn’t talk to him and let him know that something was amiss.

That’s where NAUTIC-ON comes in. NAUTIC-ON brings smart technology to boating with 24/7 systems monitoring. It’s an innovative smart boating platform that provides customers with real-time remote diagnostics about their boat. That means less time worrying about your bilge pump and more time spent cruising with friends, skiing on the lake or reeling in the big one.

Smartphones are practically ubiquitous. Our smart doorbells ring and we can see it on our smart TV before we adjust our smart thermometers. Isn’t it time for smart boating?

With just a main hub and a few wireless sensors, NAUTIC-ON makes your boat smart. The brand puts the power of boating in your hands through an innovative mobile app. With a swipe of a finger, you can check the status of batteries, bilges and other key systems. Additionally, NAUTIC-ON is SmartCraft and NMEA 2000 compatible. “NAUTIC-ON exists to give boaters a better experience,” says Adam Schanfield, NAUTIC-ON’s general manager. “We want to keep you on the water.”

NAUTIC-ON’s smart technology also puts the power back to boaters when it comes to service. When granted access, service providers can log into NAUTIC-ON through designated website portals to stay apprised of any forthcoming issues.

There’s a lot of thought in the service-provider functionality of NAUTIC-ON. It is as much of the alert to the end-user as it is to service-providers or fleet managers. Automatic notifications to dealers or technicians regarding a problem will shorten wait times, reduce confusion, and increase transparency.

Rick’s day should have gone something like this: Rick gets an alert on his phone from NAUTIC-ON. His service pro at the boatyard gets an alert that an issue has been detected. Rick rushes down to the marina and mitigates the influx of water. Meanwhile, the service pro issues a claim and schedules a service on the pump for the following day.

It’s in this seamless process that NAUTIC-ON is really able to act on its main tenet: keeping boaters on the water.

The NAUTIC-ON hub and sensors are simple and discrete.

“With NAUTIC-ON’s onboard system, we are giving back a positive connection to the boating lifestyle,” says Schanfield. Together, the hardware, mobile app and website create a sense of security and relief for boaters as well as a diagnostic tool for service providers.

Other features include real-time geo-fencing, location tracking, and weather alerts. New functions are in constant development. Since the whole NAUTIC-ON system uses cloud-based 4G technology, the modular system will process new updates over the air. This means users will always have the most up-to-date version of the technology automatically.

With all these smart features, NAUTIC-ON gives boaters complete peace of mind when they are away from their boat. Sounds pretty dang smart.

LEARN MORE: nautic-on.com

By Erin Brennan, Southern Boating July 2018

NAUTIC-ON Monitoring System

Nautic-On Monitoring System

When your boat’s systems seem out of whack, the new Nautic-On Monitoring System relays vital data to your service provider for real-time diagnostics.

The mobile app enables owners to monitor their boat remotely and view key components such as the battery and bilge. When owners aren’t on board, they can receive immediate alerts if something’s gone wrong or the boat has been moved.

MSRP with three sensors: $840

nautic-on.com

More boat gadgets.

Exhaust System Maintenance

Before the heat of summer sets in, make sure your boat engine’s cooling and exhaust system will stay cool.

After a long, cold winter and a chilly, wet spring, the first thing people want is warm weather. A boat engine wants heat, too, to run smoothly. But its exhaust system needs to keep things cool to prevent overheating. Or the possibility of serious damage to the engine or generator.

“The little time that it takes to check your exhaust components can save you lots of time and trouble down the road,” says Bill Arwood of Centek Industries. “If you notice discoloration, salt deposits or even shriveled labels on any part of your exhaust system, you need to find the underlying cause and address it immediately. Depending on the materials used in the construction of your exhaust components, your risk can run from a little time in a repair shop to a catastrophic failure on the water.”

Keep it Cool

Engines run hot and the exhaust system is designed to take most toxic gases and fumes away from the boat (and its occupants) and cool them down before they’re discharged out into the air or water. The exhaust system also muffles engine noise as well as reduce exhaust emissions—e.g., carbon monoxide, hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides—in order to meet environmental regulations.

To help keep the engine at its optimum running temperature, a water-cooled exhaust system cools both the engine and the exhaust by pumping raw water through a system, most likely a heat exchanger, that uses the water to transfer away excess heat and is then pumped out the exhaust system. Although some inboard engines use an air-cooled or dry exhaust system, most marine engines use a wet exhaust system where water is injected into the exhaust system to cool down the gases (as well as decrease the system’s inherent noise) that are then discharged through the exhaust outlet. Both sides of the cooling system require an inspection to avoid an overheated engine and prevent exhaust leaks.

On the Front End

The beginning of the inboard engine’s cooling process begins with the raw water intake strainer and pump. It’s not just seaweed and debris but also microorganisms, lime, and calcium that can build up and make their way into the small tubes of the heat exchanger. A reduced water flow interferes with the heat transfer process. A cooling system flush can help prevent this from happening. But the other important check is the pump’s impeller.

On an outboard, an impeller pushes the water to the bottom side of the powerhead, is directed toward the thermostat and bypass valve, and when the thermostat reaches its manufactured operating temperature, opens to allow water circulation to maintain the proper fuel/oil mixture burn to prevent carbon buildup. The impeller and thermostat are the two pieces that need a checkup, but it’s the impeller that causes about 95 percent of engines overheating. “Regardless of the size engine powering your boat or generator, reduced water flow spells trouble,” says Arwood. “If your engine is overheating, you can bet that heat is also damaging your exhaust system. A quick check of your water pump impeller is a great way to avoid problems.”

Off the Back

On the exhaust side, it’s important to check for leaks in the piping, mufflers, connectors, elbows, and welds. A leak can fill the bilge with water or the boat with carbon monoxide. This could allow water to back into the diesel engine. “Signs of exhaust leakage can include black soot streaks around flanges or insulation blankets, blackened intake air filters or soot on horizontal surfaces of the engine room,” says Rick Boggs of EnerYacht and creator of the SeaClean diesel generator soot filtration system.

He suggests checking for corroded welds or piping and loose flange bolts or band clamps that can lead to failed gaskets. “Darkened fiberglass piping or yellowed paint on mufflers or water separators and darkened areas on silicone connectors downstream of the mixer tank or spray ring (where water is injected into the exhaust pipe) are signs of overheating,” he says. Causes can be low raw-water flow or blocked or eroded ports in the spray ring that lead to poor distribution or lack of cooling water.

Centek Industries also points out that an engine that spends a lot of time at idle or slow speeds may not get adequate water flow to cool exhaust temperatures and cause water to seep from a damaged area. Also look for salt deposits on the muffler. They appear as a white chalky substance and indicate a spot where water is escaping, which indicates that the muffler probably experienced overheating. Boggs reminds boat owners that good insulation blankets can reduce engine room heat and fire risk. But “carefully check all insulation for the presence of oil or fuel soaking, as this is an extreme fire hazard.”

Atwood adds that the two areas vulnerable to obstruction are the water pickup point and the water discharge. As it happens, both are usually easy to check. “Something as small as a dirt dauber nest in the discharge line or thru-hull fitting can cause overheating problems.”

Exhaust System Checklist

To help avoid problems with your exhaust system this coming season, Centek suggests running through this exhaust system checklist.

1. Inspect and replace worn impellers.

2. Check the water pump and replace or repair as needed.

3. All screens and traps should be free of debris.

4. Check all hoses and clamps for wear, and make sure clamps are tight and secure.

5. Make sure seacocks are open and functioning properly before startup.

6. Check external rubber flappers for cracks, dry rot or other damage.

7. Thru-hulls should be free of obstruction. Check to make sure a critter hasn’t made a winter home in the exhaust tube or muffler.

8. Visually inspect the muffler for signs of damage from excessive heat. This include bubbling or flaking paint, discoloration, melted stickers, and/or salt deposits.

By Steve Davis, Southern Boating May 2018

Still hot? Try Air Conditioner Maintenance

Top Three Boat Systems

Every boat owner should know these top three boat systems—and know them well.

Congratulations! You’ve purchased your dream boat, and you’re ready to cruise faraway lands in search of adventure and fruity drinks with little umbrellas in them. Not so fast! Now the real fun begins as you learn about the operation and function of the various equipment on board prior to heading out.

To help boost your maritime learning curve, here are three common boat systems every cruiser should be familiar with.

DC electrical system

When it comes to your boat’s DC electrical system, knowledge is power! Smart boaters will acquaint themselves with major components and how they interact to provide juice to the various systems and equipment on board before problems arise.

Parts to know on sight:

DC system components you should become intimately familiar with include batteries/battery banks, primary on/ off battery switches and the location of any breakers or fuses within the system.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

If your DC system utilizes fuses, knowing where they are and having spares for each type (cartridge, spade, etc.) is a must. Read through the owner’s manuals of electrical equipment you have installed (to determine if they come with inline fuses), and don’t forget to carry spares for any unusual or specialty fuses you may need (engine starting, windlass, etc.).

In addition to the tools commonly found in the basic kit, the No. 1 item you’ll want to have on board when troubleshooting your DC system is a multimeter. It’s indispensable for tracing DC voltages, testing fuses and tracking down broken wires or corroded connectors. You don’t need anything fancy, and since they can be found at most hardware stores for as little as $5, there’s no excuse for not having one in your toolkit.

Other good-to-have items are a 15-foot jumper wire with alligator clips on each end (to help troubleshoot wiring circuits), crimpon butt and terminal connectors, wire tripper/crimpers, heat shrink and liquid electrical tape (for sealing connections), WD-40 (or a similar corrosion inhibitor), a small wire brush (for clearing away corrosion), and possibly an assortment of wire (various lengths and sizes).

Fuel system

When fellow cruisers say getting there is half the fun, it’s obvious they’ve never been stranded on the water due to a stalled engine. If it happens, you’ll find getting your boat moving again will be ALL the fun you’re looking for. More often than not, an on-the-water, no-go event will likely involve the fuel system.

Parts to know on sight:

This is another system that you should be able to trace out (from tank fi ll to engine) before problems occur. Components to locate and identify include a fuel tank fill hose and fuel line fittings, fuel shut-off valves and all fuel filters.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Have spare filter cartridges or cartridges for both primary and secondary filters on hand. Familiarity with the requirements for bleeding your diesel after fuel filter changes is also highly recommended. This maintenance item will go much smoother if you know how to do it beforehand.

Sanitation system

With the possible exception of “Where’s all this water coming from?”, probably no other statement strikes more fear in a boat owner’s heart than: “The toilet isn’t working for some reason.” It’s particularly troubling when you realize the issue typically doesn’t make itself known until after “the deed” has already been done.

Parts to know on sight:

This depends on the type of marine sanitation system you have installed. Gravity fed toilets (aka Porta Potti-type units) are pretty simple and work just like the name implies. They have a bowl that essentially dumps its contents directly into an integral holding tank, which can be removed and discarded in the appropriate receptacle on shore.

Permanently mounted sanitation systems will generally have a flushwater intake thru-hull and seacock (although in some cases this may also be plumbed to the boat’s freshwater system), a manual- or electric-flush toilet, a holding tank, and a deck fitting for dockside pumpouts.

Additional components you may see (depending on the system) include “Y” selector valves (allowing you to discharge bowl contents directly overboard or into a holding tank or waste from a holding tank to a macerator or deck pump-out), vented loops (to prevent back siphoning and flooding), a macerator pump, and an overboard discharge thru-hull and seacock.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Spare parts can range from gaskets and seals to entire rebuild kits for the toilet pump. A great place to look for advice on this is the owner’s manual, which will usually provide a suggested list of spare parts. A basic tool kit containing screwdrivers, a socket set, etc., as well as a few extra hose clamps, will also come in handy, particularly if you have to disassemble hose runs to look for clogs—a job that’s just as nasty as it sounds.

By Frank Lanier Southern Boating August 2017

How to Buy a Better Used Boat

A marine surveyor offers advice based on more than 35 years of experience.

There’s a reason why sales of pre-owned boats outpace new purchases 10 to 1. They represent a heck of a good value, particularly when factoring in perks like depreciation and owner outfitting. The trick is finding the most boat for your money with the least amount of previous owner headaches. Here’s a look at three issues that can turn your potential dream boat into the proverbial hole in the water.

Issue 1: Engine problems

Engines are typically the most expensive piece of gear on board, and it’s a hard lesson to learn after purchasing that deal of a lifetime to discover a rebuild or replacement is required.

Warning signs: Start by looking for obvious problems such as leaks, excessive rust, broken components, etc. Next, check coolant level and properties (for closed systems). Lack of antifreeze should be a concern (a possible indication of leaks) as would coolant with a rusty color or an unusual amount of solids.

Pull the dipstick and check the oil. A slightly low level might be okay, but higher than normal levels could be a sign of trouble, especially if the oil is milky or frothy—an indication that water, antifreeze or transmission fluid is present. The cause of this could mean anything from a blown gasket to a cracked block.

Is the engine difficult to start? Depending on the engine (gas or diesel), hard starting could be caused by anything from weak batteries to faulty plugs, fuel pump issues or bad fuel. How does the engine sound? Does it run smoothly at idle and under load, or does it idle unevenly and stall out when placed in gear? Rough running can be caused by anything from clogged fuel filters to compression problems, while engines idling at more than 800 rpm may have been set high to mask idling problems.

Verify proper oil pressure and operating temperature. Low oil pressure could be due to anything from faulty oil pumps to cam bearing failure. High water temperatures may be something as simple as a failed impeller, but could also be caused by corroded manifolds or exhaust risers. Also, read the smoke signals. A well-maintained engine may smoke when it’s initially started or while idling but not when warmed up or under load. Smoke color can also provide an indication of problems (blue for burning oil, black for incomplete combustion, etc.).

Red flags: Have the engine surveyed by a marine mechanic, then discuss repair options and cost. Engines are a big-ticket item, so always weigh the cost of repair or replacement versus walking away from what initially seemed like a great deal.

Issue 2: Wet/delaminated decks

Water intrusion into cored decking likely causes more boat damage every year than sinking, grounding and fire combined. Cored construction simply means you’ve got an inner and outer skin of fiberglass sandwiching some other material between them: balsa, plywood, foam, etc. The prime directive with cored construction is to keep water out, particularly with balsa or plywood. Wet wood coring can rot and allows the cored deck to separate, which drastically reduces structural integrity. Long-term water exposure causes problems with foam-cored decks as well: core separation, freeze damage and even disintegration in some cases.

Warning signs: The first step in finding deck problems can be as simple as walking on them. Soft spots, oil-canning (flexing) or even water squishing from deck fittings are all indicators of a potentially expensive repair. Drips and brownish stains below decks are also common signs of water-soaked decks and rotting core.

Sound out the decks by tapping them with a small plastic-headed hammer or the end of a screwdriver handle. Sharp, crisp sounds are what you want to hear, while dull thuds can be an indication of delamination. Moisture meters such as those available from JR Overseas (jroverseas.com) are also an excellent tool for sniffing out soggy decks.

Red flags: While repair costs will be directly related to the size of the delaminated area, cutting open a deck for core replacement is rarely a cheap proposition. If a deck flexes like the bounce house you rented for junior’s birthday, run or get ready to lay out some serious cash.

Issue 3: Manufacturer’s defects

It’s a sad fact that some problems you’ll encounter are fresh from the builder or caused by improper aftermarket installations by the dealer.

Warning signs: The sky’s the limit with the range and type of problems you’ll encounter. Common issues include holes drilled or cut into cored decks that aren’t properly sealed afterward against moisture entry. Windlass hawse holes are notorious for this. Also, inadequate backing plates for railings and cleats, unsupported wire runs, inaccessible fuel tanks, and lack of seacocks below the waterline thru-hull fittings—the list seems endless.

Red flags: Here’s where a good marine surveyor is worth his weight in gold (marinesurvey.org). It’s the surveyor who, like crotchety old Aunt Emma did on your first real date way back when, picks and gnaws at your new love, ferreting out all those faults your own moonstruck eyes have overlooked. With survey report in hand, you can work with the seller to correct these issues outright, negotiate a reduced price or determine if it’s better to find a boat with fewer issues.

— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017

Making (Green) Water

A Wilmington, NC trio is making fresh water green in an innovative way.

Nature has done a pretty good job of providing water for a few million years now, but it isn’t always the type of water we need where we need it. For example, many island and coastal communities have plenty of seawater at their shoreline but often struggle to produce enough fresh drinking water economically. If you happen to be cruising along the coast of North Carolina, you may see a young company’s attempt at a solution to this problem. Saros Desalination, founded by Chris Matthews, Justin Sonnett and Laura Smailes, has placed a test buoy just south of Masonboro Inlet. The buoy concept, explains Sonnett, “is for the buoy to be part of a wave-driven seawater desalination system, which has a minimal operational carbon footprint and that is powered solely by ocean waves. The Saros EcoH2O innovation aims to utilize renewable resources to provide inexpensive, clean water to developing coastal regions, areas looking for sustainable desalination solutions and communities struck by natural disasters.” The next phase of testing could see additional buoys placed in the vicinity of Wrightsville Beach fishing piers to enable easy transfer of seawater to a shore-based unit. More information on this unique project or how to contribute to their fundraising efforts can be found at sarosdesalination.com.

Beaufort International Film Festival

Beaufort, South Carolina, isn’t just a favorite destination for cruisers. The city and its scenery also draw filmmakers with notable box office hits like Forest Gump, The Big Chill, The Prince of Tides, and The Great Santini. This combination creates the perfect opportunity to tie your boat up at the Downtown Marina of Beaufort February 15-19, 2017, for the 11^th Annual Beaufort International Film Festival. The festival will feature screenings of original films, screenplays and workshops with the directors. Join actors and producers for the awards and requisite cocktail parties, and you will feel like Hollywood has moved east. Information on tickets and screening times is available at beaufortfilmfestival.com.

Florida art festivals

Starting in February there’s no better place to appreciate the work of fine artists and craftsmen than the open-air spaces of Florida’s coastal towns. Begin with the 16^th Annual Hobe Sound Festival of Arts February 4-5. This festival is set up along four blocks of A1A at 11954 SE Dixie Highway in Hobe Sound, Florida. Also produced by Howard Alan Events & American Craft Endeavors is the 27^th Annual Downtown Stuart Art Festival. This festival has become a premier event in central Florida with artists coming from around the nation to display their work. The festival runs February 25-26 on SW Osceola Street in downtown Stuart. Additional information on both the Hobe Sound and Stuart festivals can be found at artfestival.com.

Finally, consider visiting the ArtiGras Fine Art Festival in Jupiter, Florida. This highly anticipated event takes place February 18-20. Artists’ work will be on display at Downtown Abacoa, 1200 Town Center Drive in the city. Tickets may be purchased in advance at artigras.org.

By Bob Arrington, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017

Bow Thruster Advantages

Adding a unit is easy, and provides confidence and safety when docking in challenging conditions.

Single-screw boats can be difficult to dock without aid in wind or when fighting current. Even experienced captains will relent for safety’s sake and ask for a helpful hand—someone on the dock who gets tossed a bow line and pulls the boat in. With a bow thruster, however, that helpful hand is a small propeller positioned forward on the boat and it applies side-to-side propulsion to get you safely docked.

If a boat doesn’t have a bow thruster, some boat owners are drilling tunnels through the bows of their boats. The tunnel is structurally engineered to accept the retrofit of a bow thruster, and when properly installed it adds strength to the vessel.

“Many people believe that drilling a 4-inch hole or larger in their boat will weaken the structure,” says Chris Deboy, Vestus America’s sales manager, a manufacturer of bow thrusters and other marine products. “The opposite is true, as long as the thruster tunnel is installed properly, using fiberglass, aluminum or steel, depending on the hull material. The installation can add strength to the bow of the vessel. This would include the proper lamination of the fiberglass tunnel or proper welding of the aluminum or steel tunnel.”

It’s estimated that half of all recreational boats from 30 to 65 feet have bow thrusters. Aftermarket installations are becoming common as people fix up their boats. To complete the work the boat must be hauled out for detailed fiberglass work as a tunnel housing is installed in the hull with the bow thruster impeller. The impeller is driven by an electric motor powered by its own battery. The cost to install a bow thruster on a 40-foot cruiser is approximately $8,000, and about 60 percent of that cost is for labor while the rest is for parts. Three companies have the majority of market share in the U.S.: Lewmar, Side-Power and Vetus.

Side-Power introduced its Proportional DC Thrusters in 2011 and won an NMMA Innovation Award that same year. “You can now operate a thruster relative to the conditions like a throttle providing smoother operation,” says Peter Nolet, IMTRA Corporation’s thruster product manager, the U.S. distributor for Side-Power. “The ‘hold’ feature is very popular. The SE170 is the most popular size for a 50-foot cruising boat and delivers 374 foot-pounds of thrust, and is used on models like the Fleming 55 and a Princess 56. With our full range of Side-Power Thrusters being available in On-Off or Proportional Control, we can meet any customer’s expectations.”

With the proper size electric motor for the bow thruster, the boat should hold its bow off the dock in a 20-knot wind. However, there’s a misconception surrounding the amount of time you can run an electric bow thruster.

“The common misconception is that you can only run the bow thruster for a few seconds,” says Nolet. “Side-Power Thrusters are designed to be run continuously in one direction for three minutes. When pulsing the On-Off thruster, you will get around six minutes of operation. We rarely hear about the motor’s thermal protection tripping, which is a testament to our purpose-built motors. If you have a Side-Power and are only getting a short run time, I would suggest you service the thruster.”

Vetus’ most popular model for a 50-foot cruising boat is the BOW12524D. “This unit is delivered with a single six-blade Delrin propeller which provides 308 foot-pounds of thrust,” says Deboy. “The single propeller allows greater flexibility for installation of the tunnel and thruster. The BOW12524D offers a standard run time of 2.5 minutes per hour and can be ordered as an extended run version, BOW1254DE, with 10 minutes of run time per hour for demanding applications.”

The percentage of new boats with factory installed bow thrusters has increased over the years with an additional increase in bow thrusters on boats under 30 feet. Bow thrusters give owners moving into larger boats the confidence to operate the vessels without worry.

“For 2017 we are offering a new range of retractable thrusters from 3-13 horsepower as well as improving our controller systems,” says Harcourt Schutz, general manager of Lewmar USA. “The new controllers will make dual thruster use easier and more intuitive. You will also see more emphasis on small boat systems.”

Lewmar’s 185TT bow thruster is a popular choice for 50-foot cruising boats. The 8-hp unit offers equal thrust in each direction without the complexity of dual-prop thruster. Its fully sealed lower unit doesn’t require an oil reservoir, which means there’s no maintenance of the lower leg. The propeller is a spline-driven, five-blade wheel for maximum efficiency. “Smaller boat owners are really seeing the benefits of having the addition of a thruster as standard equipment,” says Schutz. “This is creating a much higher level of comfort and confidence when docking, and that is often one of the most stressful parts of boating.”

INFORMATION:
imtra.com
lewmar.com
vetus.com

— By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine October 2016