Install a Stereo on Your Boat

Everyone likes tunes while on the water, but if your boat didn’t come with a factory-installed stereo, you don’t have to suffer the sound of silence. Let’s take a look at what’s involved to install a stereo on your boat.

Stereo receiver

When choosing a stereo to install on your boat, you need to consider both the unit and mounting options. Back in the day, the standard stereo was a 7×2-inch box that included a CD player. Today’s trends are stereos designed exclusively to play music from strictly digital media sources: MP3 players, iPods, and smartphones. As no CD player is required, the design and size of today’s stereos vary greatly from traditional units, and most have a smaller cutout.

Back in the day, stereos on your boat took up a lot more space.

The “black box” type of stereos add yet additional dimension to the mix. These units consist of a small box housing the amplifier, radio and all the wiring connections. They’re controlled by a waterproof, hockey puck shaped, wired remote that’s mounted in a convenient location (helm, swim platform, etc.).

These remote units can also be sized to fit easily into a dashboard to take up less real estate at the helm. When shopping for a new stereo, you might logically assume that all “marine” stereos are waterproof, but surprisingly, that’s not the case. Some units are fully waterproof, but others may be splash resistant or waterproof only when the faceplate is sealed. Partially waterproof units can have an open chassis that is prone to water intrusion should moisture find its way past the faceplate gasket. Thoroughly read the information on any potential stereo purchase to ensure you know just how protected it is against moisture.

Unless the unit is completely waterproof, you’ll want to choose a dry location for your stereo that provides as much protection against the elements as possible. Dry may be a relative term for smaller, open boats (center consoles and the like), but even then, there will be some locations that provide better protection than others. When you install a stereo on your boat, choose a waterproof stereo or remote control. It’s always a good option, especially when mounting choices are less than ideal.

Speakers

Speakers will either be flush mounted or box speakers, both of which have their own set of pros and cons. Flush-mount speakers can be installed in tight, out-of-the-way spaces and present a cleaner looking installation. As to downsides, they require you to cut a hole in your boat to install. For best frequency response, flush-mount speakers must have sufficient air space around the cone. You also don’t want an open-air path behind the speaker, which can reduce the bass response. The speaker installation instructions should spell out minimal space requirements and other such requirements for best performance.

Box speakers are an attractive option for a number of reasons. They don’t require you to cut holes for mounting, and the box enclosure is already designed and set for optimal performance. This means you don’t have to worry about the required air space around the speaker. The only real downside to box speakers is that they take up more space than flush-mount units.

Speaker position

When planning to install a stereo on your boat, keep in mind that speakers are directional, meaning they project sound in the direction they are pointed. As such, you want them to be directed to where your ears will be. This isn’t as critical in your car or home because there are numerous surfaces for the sound to bounce off of, but when they ate installed in an open boat, the sound they produce can easily be lost.

Make sure your speakers are angled so that the music is possible to hear.

Select speaker locations that not only optimize sound but also minimize exposure to water as much as possible. Stereo sound is way better than mono sound, so choose locations that allow you to hear at least two speakers at the same time. Otherwise, you’ll only be getting half of the
music experience.

Before you cut the hole

You’ve chosen an ideal location for the stereo, but is it really all that? Take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk through it to head off any potential problems. For example, you’ve found the perfect spot for the stereo or remote head, but is there a path to run the control cable or wire bundle? You’ll also want to be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mounting location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables or even the hull itself is never conducive to a good stereo install.

This mental walk-through also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job and prevent extra trips to the chandlery. For many, the most daunting part of any stereo installation is routing the wires and cabling. It doesn’t have to be that way, however, if you plan the run first and have the proper tools. One of the handiest tools for pulling wires and cables is an electrician’s “fish tape” or wire snake. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and bends. Those made of tempered wire are commonly used, although newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also popular.

Regardless of the one you choose, you’ll want to be able to twist the snake to better make turns and bends, reducing or eliminating the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation.

Installing a stereo system is a satisfying day or weekend project that’s within the ability of most any DIYer. Just take a little time to plan out the installation beforehand to help ensure you’ll enjoy the sweet sound of success for years to come.

Cable Pulling 101

When pulling wire or coax, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to reduce friction. This approach puts less stress on the wire while reducing the chances of tears or damage to insulation or wiring.
When using a snake, feed it through first with nothing attached, then attach the cable or wire bundle to the end of the snake and pull everything back through slowly. Make this attachment as small as possible for easier pulling (covering the joint with a few tight wraps of electrical tape will make it more streamlined).
When pulling larger wire bundles, stagger the wires where attached to the snake, which both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling wire or coax to assist with future installations.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating January 2019

Need more marine stereo equipment?

Every boat owner should know these top three boat systems—and know them well.

Congratulations! You’ve purchased your dream boat, and you’re ready to cruise faraway lands in search of adventure and fruity drinks with little umbrellas in them. Not so fast! Now the real fun begins as you learn about the operation and function of the various equipment on board prior to heading out.

To help boost your maritime learning curve, here are three common boat systems every cruiser should be familiar with.

DC electrical system

When it comes to your boat’s DC electrical system, knowledge is power! Smart boaters will acquaint themselves with major components and how they interact to provide juice to the various systems and equipment on board before problems arise.

Parts to know on sight:

DC system components you should become intimately familiar with include batteries/battery banks, primary on/ off battery switches and the location of any breakers or fuses within the system.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

If your DC system utilizes fuses, knowing where they are and having spares for each type (cartridge, spade, etc.) is a must. Read through the owner’s manuals of electrical equipment you have installed (to determine if they come with inline fuses), and don’t forget to carry spares for any unusual or specialty fuses you may need (engine starting, windlass, etc.).

In addition to the tools commonly found in the basic kit, the No. 1 item you’ll want to have on board when troubleshooting your DC system is a multimeter. It’s indispensable for tracing DC voltages, testing fuses and tracking down broken wires or corroded connectors. You don’t need anything fancy, and since they can be found at most hardware stores for as little as $5, there’s no excuse for not having one in your toolkit.

Other good-to-have items are a 15-foot jumper wire with alligator clips on each end (to help troubleshoot wiring circuits), crimpon butt and terminal connectors, wire tripper/crimpers, heat shrink and liquid electrical tape (for sealing connections), WD-40 (or a similar corrosion inhibitor), a small wire brush (for clearing away corrosion), and possibly an assortment of wire (various lengths and sizes).

Fuel system

When fellow cruisers say getting there is half the fun, it’s obvious they’ve never been stranded on the water due to a stalled engine. If it happens, you’ll find getting your boat moving again will be ALL the fun you’re looking for. More often than not, an on-the-water, no-go event will likely involve the fuel system.

Parts to know on sight:

This is another system that you should be able to trace out (from tank fi ll to engine) before problems occur. Components to locate and identify include a fuel tank fill hose and fuel line fittings, fuel shut-off valves and all fuel filters.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Have spare filter cartridges or cartridges for both primary and secondary filters on hand. Familiarity with the requirements for bleeding your diesel after fuel filter changes is also highly recommended. This maintenance item will go much smoother if you know how to do it beforehand.

Sanitation system

With the possible exception of “Where’s all this water coming from?”, probably no other statement strikes more fear in a boat owner’s heart than: “The toilet isn’t working for some reason.” It’s particularly troubling when you realize the issue typically doesn’t make itself known until after “the deed” has already been done.

Parts to know on sight:

This depends on the type of marine sanitation system you have installed. Gravity fed toilets (aka Porta Potti-type units) are pretty simple and work just like the name implies. They have a bowl that essentially dumps its contents directly into an integral holding tank, which can be removed and discarded in the appropriate receptacle on shore.

Permanently mounted sanitation systems will generally have a flushwater intake thru-hull and seacock (although in some cases this may also be plumbed to the boat’s freshwater system), a manual- or electric-flush toilet, a holding tank, and a deck fitting for dockside pumpouts.

Additional components you may see (depending on the system) include “Y” selector valves (allowing you to discharge bowl contents directly overboard or into a holding tank or waste from a holding tank to a macerator or deck pump-out), vented loops (to prevent back siphoning and flooding), a macerator pump, and an overboard discharge thru-hull and seacock.

Spare parts to carry and be able to change/fix:

Spare parts can range from gaskets and seals to entire rebuild kits for the toilet pump. A great place to look for advice on this is the owner’s manual, which will usually provide a suggested list of spare parts. A basic tool kit containing screwdrivers, a socket set, etc., as well as a few extra hose clamps, will also come in handy, particularly if you have to disassemble hose runs to look for clogs—a job that’s just as nasty as it sounds.

By Frank Lanier Southern Boating August 2017

Tag: DIYer