What are the Best Stereos and Speakers for Boats?

Pump up the volume with the best stereos and speakers for your boat

Music is a universal language, and it’s usually the foundation for entertaining on board along with food, cocktails, and a scenic view. Here are the best stereos and speakers for boats.

Good speakers matched with a high-quality amplifier can really make a difference in sound. Like anything in electronics, the technology continues to improve and these components provide crisp, clear audio in the marine environment.

From the BOSS

Beef up your sounds on board with the weatherproof BOSS Audio MCK400WB.6 Marine Receiver & Speaker package. Recently added to the BOSS marine line, this affordable, all-in-one bundle includes a single-DIN, 50-watt x 4 max power, MECH-LESS multimedia player, marine-rated head unit with built-in pre-set EQ, USB, and auxiliary inputs, front and rear pre-amp outputs, wireless remote, USB charging, and hands-free Bluetooth operation. The package also contains a pair of 6.5-inch marine speakers that combine 90/180 watts (RMS/max) power utilizing a poly carbon cone and rubber surrounds. The unit is compatible with smartphones, MP3 players, and several audio-streaming apps, and has an AM/FM radio with a dipole hideaway marine antenna.

MSRP $79.99.

BOSS also introduced new tower speakers built from state-of-the-art waterproofing materials and special UV coatings for plastic surfaces, coated circuit boards, and connections to protect against harsh outdoor elements and resist corrosion from water. A pair of 4-inch, full-range, two-way speakers blast 400 watts and have RGB LED illumination with 20 color options.

MSRP $144.99
bossaudio.com

Find out how to install a stereo on your boat

Stadium Sound

JBL Stadium speakers are purpose-built for use on a boat. They have the power necessary when throttled-up and blasting through the chop to provide volume without distortion, yet have a level of clarity and subtlety when anchored in a quiet bay.

The Stadium speakers are available in a 6.5-inch coaxial (100-watt RMS output with 300-watt peak power), 8-inch three-way (200-watt RMS output with 500-watt peak power), and a 10-inch passive subwoofer (300-watt RMS output with 900-watt peak power). The 8-inch speaker has a removable 3.5-inch mid-tweeter that can be relocated higher to bring the mid- and high-level sounds closer to ear level for improved accuracy.

An insert is included to replace the tweeter if moved. The subwoofer is mounted low in the boat. All three speakers are available with white or black grilles and have built-in RGB perimeter and center lighting.

MSRP, from 6.5-inch to 10-inch, is $299.95/pair, $399.95/pair, and $349.95/each prospecelectronics.com

JBL also offers its new Apex Powersports Amplifiers that are small enough to fit in the palm of your hand (and hide in the boat) yet pack a high-performance punch. Designed to withstand extreme outdoor conditions, the Class D Apex Series amplifiers feature small heat sinks for fast and simple wiring in tight installations. Moreover, three models are available, two which incorporate high-pass, low-pass, and all-pass crossover capabilities.

MSRP from $179 to $299
jbl.com

Like these speakers? Try this marine stereo article for more.

Light It Up

JL Audio expands its marine line with the M3 series of high-performance marine loudspeakers, subwoofers, and tower speakers with optional RGB illumination. Suited for all types of boats from runabouts and pontoons to center consoles and towboats, the more affordable line maintains JL Audio’s audio quality and durability.

M3 speakers are purpose-engineered to deliver a powerful, smooth sound in open-air boating environments and feature long-excursion, high-efficiency woofers and treated silk dome tweeters. Subwoofers are built to operate without a dedicated enclosure to deliver a deep, rich bass. Two grille designs are available to match most boat styles: Classic and Sport.

The Sport’s split-spoke grille is available in two color schemes, gloss white or gunmetal, and has the option for built-in LED RGB illumination for a variety of lighting color options. JL Audio tests its marine products to ensure they can withstand intense UV and salt exposure.

MSRP for the 6.5-inch Sport with RGB LED lighting is $279.99
jlaudio.com

App Ready

The latest from ASA Electronics is the Marine Audio MA110 App Ready Bluetooth Stereo. Boaters to take control of their music entertainment by using apps on their smartphones, tablets via Bluetooth. It supports up to four speakers with 160 watts of power to pump up the volume on the water. The 2.8-inch full-color display is viewable in direct sunlight and surrounded by control buttons with white LED backlighting.

The display has a day and night illumination control as well as dimmable backlighting for the buttons that make the display and controls easily visible at all times. The MA110 is also an AM/FM radio with 36 programmable presets. Additionally, the water-resistant stereo has an IPX6 protection rating. There’s also a built-in USB port that charges devices, so the party can go on all day long.

MSRP $379.00
asaelectronics.com

Summer Fun

Entertain the young ones with My Audio Pet speakers. They’re cute and put out a big sound, but more importantly, they’re IPX7 waterproof rated. The Bluetooth speaker incorporates true wireless stereo technology, and the rechargeable battery provides up to eight hours of play time. With names like Megalosong, Narmony the Narwhal, Rocktopod the Octopus, and AuROARa BEARealis, you can’t go wrong. Splash pet speakers are perfect for summer fun around the water.

MSRP $39.99
myaudiopet.com

By Jeremey Peters, Southern Boating August 2019

Install a Stereo on Your Boat

Install a Stereo on Your Boat

Everyone likes tunes while on the water, but if your boat didn’t come with a factory-installed stereo, you don’t have to suffer the sound of silence. Let’s take a look at what’s involved to install a stereo on your boat.

Stereo receiver

When choosing a stereo to install on your boat, you need to consider both the unit and mounting options. Back in the day, the standard stereo was a 7×2-inch box that included a CD player. Today’s trends are stereos designed exclusively to play music from strictly digital media sources: MP3 players, iPods, and smartphones. As no CD player is required, the design and size of today’s stereos vary greatly from traditional units, and most have a smaller cutout.

Back in the day, stereos on your boat took up a lot more space.

The “black box” type of stereos add yet additional dimension to the mix. These units consist of a small box housing the amplifier, radio and all the wiring connections. They’re controlled by a waterproof, hockey puck shaped, wired remote that’s mounted in a convenient location (helm, swim platform, etc.).

These remote units can also be sized to fit easily into a dashboard to take up less real estate at the helm. When shopping for a new stereo, you might logically assume that all “marine” stereos are waterproof, but surprisingly, that’s not the case. Some units are fully waterproof, but others may be splash resistant or waterproof only when the faceplate is sealed. Partially waterproof units can have an open chassis that is prone to water intrusion should moisture find its way past the faceplate gasket. Thoroughly read the information on any potential stereo purchase to ensure you know just how protected it is against moisture.

Unless the unit is completely waterproof, you’ll want to choose a dry location for your stereo that provides as much protection against the elements as possible. Dry may be a relative term for smaller, open boats (center consoles and the like), but even then, there will be some locations that provide better protection than others. When you install a stereo on your boat, choose a waterproof stereo or remote control. It’s always a good option, especially when mounting choices are less than ideal.

Speakers

Speakers will either be flush mounted or box speakers, both of which have their own set of pros and cons. Flush-mount speakers can be installed in tight, out-of-the-way spaces and present a cleaner looking installation. As to downsides, they require you to cut a hole in your boat to install. For best frequency response, flush-mount speakers must have sufficient air space around the cone. You also don’t want an open-air path behind the speaker, which can reduce the bass response. The speaker installation instructions should spell out minimal space requirements and other such requirements for best performance.

Box speakers are an attractive option for a number of reasons. They don’t require you to cut holes for mounting, and the box enclosure is already designed and set for optimal performance. This means you don’t have to worry about the required air space around the speaker. The only real downside to box speakers is that they take up more space than flush-mount units.

Speaker position

When planning to install a stereo on your boat, keep in mind that speakers are directional, meaning they project sound in the direction they are pointed. As such, you want them to be directed to where your ears will be. This isn’t as critical in your car or home because there are numerous surfaces for the sound to bounce off of, but when they ate installed in an open boat, the sound they produce can easily be lost.

Make sure your speakers are angled so that the music is possible to hear.

Select speaker locations that not only optimize sound but also minimize exposure to water as much as possible. Stereo sound is way better than mono sound, so choose locations that allow you to hear at least two speakers at the same time. Otherwise, you’ll only be getting half of the
music experience.

Before you cut the hole

You’ve chosen an ideal location for the stereo, but is it really all that? Take a moment to step back and visualize the installation as a whole. Mentally walk through it to head off any potential problems. For example, you’ve found the perfect spot for the stereo or remote head, but is there a path to run the control cable or wire bundle? You’ll also want to be doubly sure of what’s on the other side of the selected mounting location. Drilling into hoses or electrical cables or even the hull itself is never conducive to a good stereo install.

This mental walk-through also provides a good opportunity to make a list of tools and materials needed to complete the job and prevent extra trips to the chandlery. For many, the most daunting part of any stereo installation is routing the wires and cabling. It doesn’t have to be that way, however, if you plan the run first and have the proper tools. One of the handiest tools for pulling wires and cables is an electrician’s “fish tape” or wire snake. Snakes must be stiff enough to maintain their shape while pushing, yet supple enough to twist around curves and bends. Those made of tempered wire are commonly used, although newer, more flexible units of fiberglass or other composite materials are also popular.

Regardless of the one you choose, you’ll want to be able to twist the snake to better make turns and bends, reducing or eliminating the number of additional holes needed to facilitate installation.

Installing a stereo system is a satisfying day or weekend project that’s within the ability of most any DIYer. Just take a little time to plan out the installation beforehand to help ensure you’ll enjoy the sweet sound of success for years to come.

Cable Pulling 101

  • When pulling wire or coax, use a firm, steady motion and always pull at the flattest angle possible to reduce friction. This approach puts less stress on the wire while reducing the chances of tears or damage to insulation or wiring.
  • ­When using a snake, feed it through first with nothing attached, then attach the cable or wire bundle to the end of the snake and pull everything back through slowly. Make this attachment as small as possible for easier pulling (covering the joint with a few tight wraps of electrical tape will make it more streamlined).
  • When pulling larger wire bundles, stagger the wires where attached to the snake, which both reduces the profile of the joint and makes it easier to pull around tight bends. Include and leave an extra pull string in place when pulling wire or coax to assist with future installations.

By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating January 2019

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