Rartian Engineering’s Macerator Pump with Waste Valve makes marine sanitation service quick and easy. This technical innovation, recently awarded a U.S. patent, has a Viton motor shaft seal to reduce leakage and will discharge from the top, left or right. The macerator pump is available in 12 or 24V DC. MSRP starting at $290; raritaneng.com
Tag: technical
Soundproofing Your Boat
How to install soundproofing for quieter cruising
For most, boats are a way to escape the rat race of terrestrial life and an opportunity to enjoy time with family and friends on the water. Relaxing can be difficult, however, when you have to scream over engine or generator noise during conversations or while lying awake at night, listening to the melodious hum of an air conditioning unit. Installation of soundproofing can make a huge difference in onboard noise reduction. Here’s how to transform the hullabaloo of your boat into the peace and tranquility of a floating Zen garden.
The best way to combat noise is by containing it at the source—within an engine compartment, for example. Installation of a good-quality foam soundproofing barrier can reduce engine noise by 10-35 decibels (about 65 percent). Soundproofing material is available in a wide variety of forms, from sprays and paints to foil-backed foam panels. Foam panels are a popular choice and one that’s very effective against airborne noise pollution.
Self-adhesive panels are easy to install (just peel and stick), but you have to plan and position them exactly where you want them the first try, as once they’re in place, you typically can’t reposition them without damaging the foam. Non-adhesive backed panels require spray or brush-on contact adhesives. Most allow a bit of last-minute repositioning, making them easier to work with in tight spaces. Regardless of the adhesives used, panels also require the use of mechanical fasteners (such as screws and fender washers) particularly for overhead horizontal installations. (To prevent gripping and tearing of the foam, wax the screws by running them into a candle prior to use.)
Soundproofing panels can be cut to shape with a box cutter or razor knife but a serrated knife blade will provide a cleaner cut of the foam material itself. Thin sheets of soundproofing material can also be cut with a pair of quality scissors. To ensure the best fit (and avoid cutting snafus), make cardboard templates first to check fit and for use as a cutting guide. Be sure to dry-fit everything prior to applying adhesives or peeling self-adhesive panels.
When planning your installation, remember that sound flows like water meaning you’ll want to use special seal or joining tape that’s provided by the manufacturer to prevent “leaks” at panel joints, etc.
Cables and hoses penetrating the material should be sealed using tight-fitting rubber grommets, while any access hatches should close snugly with a good, tight seal. That being said, any soundproofing installation must provide adequate ventilation for the engine. Required vents and air holes can be quieted using air baffles.
It’s not realistic to expect all noise to be eliminated once soundproofing is installed, but when done correctly you should be able to carry on a conversation at normal volume levels and you’ll notice your cruising becomes much more serene. After all, who wants to yell when trying to relax? Namaste!
Installation tips:
• Read all instructions (soundproofing, adhesives, etc) before starting your project.
• Make templates to check fit prior to cutting panels. Be sure to allow for material thickness at corners.
• Ensure your installation provides adequate ventilation and keeps insulation material above bilge water levels. (Avoid exposure to any wet areas.)
• Provide a minimum clearance of six inches between soundproofing and engine or generator exhaust manifolds.
• Use sharp tools when cutting sound proofing in order to produce clean cuts and also to avoid tearing of reflective foil. The foil or silver facing side should face upward when cutting.
• Handle soundproofing material carefully and avoid folding the material back on itself, which can cause creasing.
• Seal all exposed edges with seam tape to prevent water or other contaminates (fumes, oil, etc.) from entering and degrading sound proofing material.
• Don’t rely on adhesives alone. Use fasteners where appropriate (all overhead and vertical surfaces) to ensure backup in the event of adhesive failure.
• Apply adhesive for and install one panel at a time. Install the top panel first, which lets adjacent vertical panels provide support to the outer edges of the top panel.
• Use seam tape to seal exposed joints and corners. Seam tape can also be used to provide chafe protection at wear points.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine April 2017
Steady On Sportfishing
New technology can keep your outboard-powered boat stationary with safety and angling benefits.
Sportfishing is a hit-or-miss proposition—you drop a bait over a specific spot and either hook up or move along because you have determined no fish are biting. Because wind and current conspire to move you off that spot in literally seconds, doing it right means dropping the anchor, and that takes time.
SeaStar Solutions’ new SeaStation GPS Anchoring System offers a tech-driven way for your outboard-powered boat to stay on top of that spot without dropping anchor. You can explore a spot, and if there are no fish, you are quickly on to the next spot without having the hassle of anchoring. It’s a new feature of joystick-control, and it’s one that any multi-engine outboard boat can use. That’s because the SeaStar Optimus 360 system can be added as a retrofit to most twin, triple and quad outboard-powered boats—although one exception is Mercury Verado engines. Once you have the Optimus 360 system and joystick control installed on your boat, the SeaStation feature can be added on with the addition of a dedicated SeaStation GPS antenna and software program.
SeaStar Solutions showed off its new SeaStation feature at the 2017 Miami International Boat Show in February to the public during demo rides on Biscayne Bay. The results are impressive, as the system can hold the boat on a spot within three meters. “When you’re after baitfish, you can move the boat right up to the bait ball and hold your position with SeaStation,” said Scott Allgood, Seastar Solutions Optimus Sales Specialist. “That allows you to get the baitfish faster and move on to fishing. Or if you are fishing a weed line, you can hold your boat’s bow orientation in a set direction while you drift down the weed line.”
SeaStation offers three primary modes:
- Heading hold: Hold heading regardless of position. Practical applications include kite fishing/drift fishing, and it allows easier setup to maximize fishing time. It keeps the boat from rotating so lines won’t get tangled.
- Position hold: Hold position regardless of heading. Practical applications include bait fishing and wreck/reef fishing. The system will find the best natural heading for the boat, taking into account the current and wind to hold the boat most efficiently. As a result, it holds the position with less shifting and movement of the engines.
- Heading and position hold: Here the system allows the boat to stay in position and hold its heading. Practical applications include waiting for a bridge to open, waiting for a spot at the dock to become available and bait fishing near a structure. Regarding safety, SeaStation is not to be used when people are in the water, or when the boat is too close to structures. Someone should always be at the helm.
SeaStar Solutions has applied the same smart algorithms to SeaStation that the Optimus 360 joystick control utilizes to reduce unnecessary shifting and jockeying of the engines. It provides superior position and heading functions for a large selection of engine platforms. “The feedback we received from users and fishing captains was to reduce the jarring from the engines shifting and unnecessary movement,” Allgood said. “The engines obviously do shift, but as little as possible because it can affect the fishing. We took this input seriously and we are confident SeaStation will be a fishing enabler.”
The winds and swirling currents of Biscayne Bay created a challenge during the Miami Boat Show during our demonstration, but the unit easily held the boat’s position. In addition, having joystick control in low-speed situations is extremely helpful for expert and novice drivers alike.
For example, for the novice cruiser the ability to run the boat at under 1200 rpm and move forward, sideways, backward or diagonally with the twist of the wrist is a boon to confidence around the docks. For the expert, backing down on a kingfish by simply using the joystick, and moving in reverse at the max speed of six mph, makes life much easier. No steering wheel, throttles and shifters to worry about.
“Optimus 360 now brings boat owners with multiple-outboard setups the ability to have joystick control, and now SeaStation anchoring,” Allgood said. “The cost for a twin-engine setup is about $14,500, plus what the dealer charges for the install. Until May 31st, if you purchase a new Optimus 360 system the SeaStation Anchoring is provided for free. After that, the charge is $3,800 for the antenna and software.”
The components that make up Optimus 360 are proven, including the pumps and cylinders,” Allgood said. “Once you have a system of proven components, now in a new configuration like Optimus, then it’s about the software.”
For customers who are interested in having Optimus 360 and SeaStation added to their boats, there are 180 dealers in the continental U.S. or Alaska that can install and service the Optimus System, as well as a large number of boat builders that offer it as a factory option.
For more information: seastarsolutions.com
How to Buy a Better Used Boat
A marine surveyor offers advice based on more than 35 years of experience.
There’s a reason why sales of pre-owned boats outpace new purchases 10 to 1. They represent a heck of a good value, particularly when factoring in perks like depreciation and owner outfitting. The trick is finding the most boat for your money with the least amount of previous owner headaches. Here’s a look at three issues that can turn your potential dream boat into the proverbial hole in the water.
Issue 1: Engine problems
Engines are typically the most expensive piece of gear on board, and it’s a hard lesson to learn after purchasing that deal of a lifetime to discover a rebuild or replacement is required.
Warning signs: Start by looking for obvious problems such as leaks, excessive rust, broken components, etc. Next, check coolant level and properties (for closed systems). Lack of antifreeze should be a concern (a possible indication of leaks) as would coolant with a rusty color or an unusual amount of solids.
Pull the dipstick and check the oil. A slightly low level might be okay, but higher than normal levels could be a sign of trouble, especially if the oil is milky or frothy—an indication that water, antifreeze or transmission fluid is present. The cause of this could mean anything from a blown gasket to a cracked block.
Is the engine difficult to start? Depending on the engine (gas or diesel), hard starting could be caused by anything from weak batteries to faulty plugs, fuel pump issues or bad fuel. How does the engine sound? Does it run smoothly at idle and under load, or does it idle unevenly and stall out when placed in gear? Rough running can be caused by anything from clogged fuel filters to compression problems, while engines idling at more than 800 rpm may have been set high to mask idling problems.
Verify proper oil pressure and operating temperature. Low oil pressure could be due to anything from faulty oil pumps to cam bearing failure. High water temperatures may be something as simple as a failed impeller, but could also be caused by corroded manifolds or exhaust risers. Also, read the smoke signals. A well-maintained engine may smoke when it’s initially started or while idling but not when warmed up or under load. Smoke color can also provide an indication of problems (blue for burning oil, black for incomplete combustion, etc.).
Red flags: Have the engine surveyed by a marine mechanic, then discuss repair options and cost. Engines are a big-ticket item, so always weigh the cost of repair or replacement versus walking away from what initially seemed like a great deal.
Issue 2: Wet/delaminated decks
Water intrusion into cored decking likely causes more boat damage every year than sinking, grounding and fire combined. Cored construction simply means you’ve got an inner and outer skin of fiberglass sandwiching some other material between them: balsa, plywood, foam, etc. The prime directive with cored construction is to keep water out, particularly with balsa or plywood. Wet wood coring can rot and allows the cored deck to separate, which drastically reduces structural integrity. Long-term water exposure causes problems with foam-cored decks as well: core separation, freeze damage and even disintegration in some cases.
Warning signs: The first step in finding deck problems can be as simple as walking on them. Soft spots, oil-canning (flexing) or even water squishing from deck fittings are all indicators of a potentially expensive repair. Drips and brownish stains below decks are also common signs of water-soaked decks and rotting core.
Sound out the decks by tapping them with a small plastic-headed hammer or the end of a screwdriver handle. Sharp, crisp sounds are what you want to hear, while dull thuds can be an indication of delamination. Moisture meters such as those available from JR Overseas (jroverseas.com) are also an excellent tool for sniffing out soggy decks.
Red flags: While repair costs will be directly related to the size of the delaminated area, cutting open a deck for core replacement is rarely a cheap proposition. If a deck flexes like the bounce house you rented for junior’s birthday, run or get ready to lay out some serious cash.
Issue 3: Manufacturer’s defects
It’s a sad fact that some problems you’ll encounter are fresh from the builder or caused by improper aftermarket installations by the dealer.
Warning signs: The sky’s the limit with the range and type of problems you’ll encounter. Common issues include holes drilled or cut into cored decks that aren’t properly sealed afterward against moisture entry. Windlass hawse holes are notorious for this. Also, inadequate backing plates for railings and cleats, unsupported wire runs, inaccessible fuel tanks, and lack of seacocks below the waterline thru-hull fittings—the list seems endless.
Red flags: Here’s where a good marine surveyor is worth his weight in gold (marinesurvey.org). It’s the surveyor who, like crotchety old Aunt Emma did on your first real date way back when, picks and gnaws at your new love, ferreting out all those faults your own moonstruck eyes have overlooked. With survey report in hand, you can work with the seller to correct these issues outright, negotiate a reduced price or determine if it’s better to find a boat with fewer issues.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017
Spring Cleaning? Don’t Miss the Engine Room!
Spring cleaning your engine room has long-term benefits.
A dirty engine room is like dirty fingernails; it says a lot about your boat’s overall cleanliness. The accumulation of dust, sea spray, oil, and other fluids in the engine room can affect a boat’s value as well as the boat’s seaworthiness. The boat may look great outside, but it is sick inside and may be dying. “A boat that’s a mess down below can be difficult to repair when there is a problem,” explains Issy Perera, owner of Apex Marine in Miami. “That’s why a clean engine room and pre-flight check at the dock is so critical. Keeping a tidy engine room offers three advantages: It preserves the value of your boat, prevents issues before they start and helps you spot bigger problems faster.”
With some vigorous spring cleaning, boat owners can separate engine room clean-up into three areas:
• Mechanical issues associated with the engine
• Electrical issues with batteries and connections
• Auxiliary systems such as seacocks, sea strainers and watermakers
When it’s clean, problems are seen.
Perera puts down clean, oil-absorbent pads in the engine room so that he can see immediately if there are drips or leaks. During his frequent checks of the engine room he scans for dust that may be a sign of a worn or slipping belt, or if there’s smoke or residue from a leaking exhaust hose.
Anything out of place—loose clamps, wires or hoses—is obviously a sign that something is amiss and needs to be checked out. “There’s an awful lot of stuff in play in the engine room,” says Perera, who runs his 51-foot sportfishing boat to The Bahamas with friends and family. “Once you make a habit of getting down there and cleaning every time you go out, you’ll begin to notice things. You become very in tune with your boat and can also perform vital fluid maintenance.”
Making sure oil is at the proper level and changing it regularly benefits your diesel engine in innumerable ways. While a diesel engine may run at low rpms, it’s still working hard whenever it is running, and the engine oil does more than lubricate moving parts and reduce friction. Oil also keeps pistons and cylinders cool, and protects the walls, valves and turbochargers by acting as a sealant to stop corrosion.
Whether or not to change your own engine oil depends on your mechanical skill level. Most new boats have oil-changing pumps that make it easy to get the oil out, but older boats don’t have such conveniences. You’ve got to get down and dirty to find the oil pan and drain the oil. The bottom line is changing the oil can be a big job that’s not worth the hassle. However, it’s a great idea to know how to change filters and add oil when needed.
Eye on electricity
“Some people will start to spray water all over the engine room, and that’s when things can really get screwed up,” warns Perera. “You have to know what you can and cannot spray. That’s why it can be a benefit for some boat owners to have a qualified marine professional do the maintenance on their boat so they can just turn the key and go.”
Many diesel engines use sacrificial anodes known as “pencil zincs” to counter galvanic corrosion. It’s important to check the zincs often and replace them when they are worn out. “If you let those zincs expire you can have major problems,” Perera cautions. “I’ve seen them wear out after three or four months. Now, they don’t use zincs on all brands, so boat owners need to check their book and find out and then know how to change them when needed.”
Many of today’s diesel engines use covered plugs and connectors for the electrical system, but if you do have exposed connections, there are ways to ward off corrosion. Boeshield T-9 is a spray-on product that creates a film over the exposed connection and protects it from the saltwater environment.
Focus on the fluids
Many boat owners don’t give thru-hulls and seacocks much thought regarding maintenance. They might think of thru-hulls, made of bronze or plastic, as finished-off holes in the boat, and seacocks, also available in bronze or plastic, as simply valves that can be opened or closed. However, when there’s a serious failure of a below-the-waterline thru-hull and seacock, the boat can sink or an engine can burn up when deprived of cooling intake water.
Thru-hull fittings and the seacocks attached to them function as gatekeepers, allowing water to pass into and out of the boat. Thru-hulls are both above the waterline for bilge and A/C water discharge, and below the waterline in combination with seacocks for raw-water intakes for engines, generators, A/C systems, washdown pumps, and more.
When doing maintenance, test bronze thru-hulls with a pocketknife by poking into the flange. If you see bright shiny bronze you are okay, but if you uncover pink, flaky material, it’s time to replace it. Likewise, plastic thru-hulls can crack and leak. Thru-hulls can be fouled by barnacles, and you want to check the seacocks to make sure they open and close smoothly and that there are no leaks.
One cool tool
Finally, Perera recommends every cruising boat owner have a wet vacuum that’s always at the ready. Wet vacs allow for the fast removal of accumulated water, which helps prevent bacterial growth as well as keeping the area clean. “We can help customers clean up their engine rooms, but sometimes it’s a do-it-yourself job and that’s where you have to have the wet vac,” Perera says. “You don’t want standing water or fluids in your boat, and again, any fluid is a sign that something is wrong. Fix the problem, eliminate the fluids, and you’re going to be a much happier boat owner.”
— By Doug Thompson, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
Keeping Up with the Watermakers
“Water, water, everywhere, and all the boards did shrink. Water, water, everywhere, nor any drop to drink.”
I can’t read those lines from the seafaring classic The Rime of the Ancient Mariner without thinking “Those guys sure could’ve used a watermaker!” But owning a watermaker is only half the equation. Like any onboard mechanical system, a reverse osmosis (RO) unit requires routine maintenance to ensure proper operation. While the manufacturer should be consulted regarding maintenance requirements for your particular make or model, here are a few requirements that will be common to most any unit and help ensure yours runs smoothly.
How they work
In a nutshell, a watermaker or RO system uses a high-pressure pump to push saltwater (supply water) against a semi-permeable membrane reversing osmotic flow. A portion of the supply water (roughly 10 percent) passes through the membrane’s microscopic pores and emerges as freshwater, which is then pumped to the ship’s water tanks. The remaining 90 percent—along with the salt and other solids left behind by the desalinated water—are flushed away by excess supply water, which flows past the membrane and is pumped overboard.
Pre-filters
A watermaker’s supply side (between the seawater pickup and the membrane) consists of a low-pressure pump, pre-filters and a high-pressure pump. Most systems use two pre-filters, typically a 20 or 30-micron filter, followed by a 5-micron filter. As oil can quickly damage an RO membrane, many systems also include a supply water oil separation filter.
Watermakers need an ample flow of water to operate, which means keeping the pre-filters clean. If they begin to clog, supply pressure (and output) begins to drop. Most watermaker units have a gauge to monitor supply pressure. Regular monitoring and replacement of these filters will not only increase freshwater output but is also better for the RO unit itself in the long run.
In addition to the pre-filters, most manufacturers recommend the installation of a sea strainer at the supply water intake thru-hull. It should be sized to filter out anything larger than 50 microns or so. The strainer itself should be cleaned regularly as part of your routine maintenance schedule.
Membrane maintenance
The heart of your RO system is the membrane. Membrane life expectancy for a well-maintained system is around five years but can be much longer in systems that are used regularly and scrupulously maintained. While operating your system in water that’s blue or at least somewhat clear looking will help reduce maintenance and increase membrane service life, just as important to longevity is how well the system is maintained while not in use.
Most modern watermakers come with (or have the option to add) a manual or automatic membrane flushing system. This allows you to draw freshwater from the vessel’s water tank (typically weekly) and pump it through the membrane, purging the system of saltwater. When flushing, make sure the water used does not contain chlorine, which can quickly ruin your membrane. Use “product” water (i.e. water produced by the watermaker) whenever possible. If using water from your vessel’s freshwater tanks, make sure it is chlorine free. Systems that will be out of service for extended periods of time (six months or longer) should be flushed with a biocide per the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Pumps
The high- and low-pressure pumps in your system also require routine maintenance. Some may require oil changes and seal replacement every 500 hours or so, but many newer units can go significantly longer between service intervals, sometimes as high as 8,000 hours. Others can be water cooled and require no oil changes. The first place to look is the owner’s manual, which should specify the required maintenance items and intervals for your particular system.
Finally, use these simple tips:
Do…
- Keep the membrane wet. Allowing it to dry out will drastically reduce service life.
- Use the system regularly, even daily, if possible. (Watermakers hate inactivity.)
- Check the system routinely for leaks, corrosion, and other issues.
- Flush the system with fresh water after each use.
- Clean the pre-filters often, weekly if the system is used regularly.
- Install a supply line oil separation filter.
- Monitor the system daily while in use, and keep a log of output, water quality, etc.
- Preserve the membrane with biocide solution for longtime storage.
Don’t…
- Use the system in silty, oily or polluted water (harbors, for instance).
- Operate the system with insufficient supply water flow.
- Use chlorinated water to flush the system.
- Let the RO membrane(s) dry out.
- Clean the unit with harsh chemicals. Use soap and water or mild glass cleaners only.
— By Frank Lanier, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
Southern Boating’s Top Six Safety Tips
It doesn’t matter if you are a seasoned captain or a boating newbie—safety is paramount.
A prudent mariner knows that there are many safety rules involved in just a simple cruise on the water, let alone a long haul down to The Bahamas.
Whenever a trip on the water is planned—be it a day cruise on a kayak or an overnight fishing trip—you should have a float plan. A float plan is an itinerary of who, what, where, why, and when you plan to head out on the water. You can find a detailed example of a float plan from the US Coast Guard.
While you create your float plan please (please!) remember to practice common sense, follow our top six safety tips below, and remember the most important rule of all—HAVE FUN!
