An iconic place for beaching and boating in The Bahamas is a string of pearl-like islands —the Exumas. But, if you visit the southern Exumas, Acklins Island, Crooked Island and Long Cay in particular, you’ll find the familiar aquatic landscape more commonly associated with the Exumas to the north.
These three atoll islands encircle the Bight of Acklins, a 500-square-mile lagoon, where you can wade in the water knee-deep for thousands of feet offshore. The shallow seas encasing the islands radiate turquoise light. A tapestry of undulating white sands blankets the ocean floor, peeking out here and there to showcase a collection of elongated sandbars. The meandering coastlines are dotted with countless sandy bays, crescent-shaped coves, and mangrove nurseries. A network of tidal creeks and inlets snake through the land, and from sky high, they appear like saltwater rivers slicing cuts into the coast.
Long Crooked Acklins
Acklins Island, Crooked Island and Long Cay are truly underexplored island gems in the southern Bahamas. Unlike the Exumas, these sister islands are known more for their bonefishing and ecotourism than for their boating and physical beauty. But island-hopping in these islands will turn that perspective completely upside down. Take in the scene at the French Wells Channel between Long Island and Crooked Island, or cruise around Turtle Sound or Lovely Bay, and the stunning picture will be abundantly clear.
The Bight of Acklins is the “Exumas of the South” when it comes to beaching and boating. Beach Hop the North Coast Start in Lovely Bay, where you can comb for shells on the Lovely Beach sandbar or spot iguanas on Snake Cay. Chase stingrays in Chester’s Bay or head beyond the main Atwood Harbour Beach to a cay locals call Saddleback. Saddleback Cay marks the opening of a creek that winds its way down to Gordon’s Bay. Depending on the tides, Saddleback is only connected by the beach. On the tip of the cay is a large osprey nest. The birds stand watch over this entrance, soaring above to keep an eye on visitors.
Underexplored
Despite its array of offerings, Acklins and Crooked Island are not as accessible as other islands in The Bahamas. There are no marinas or official docking facilities, so boaters have to use the various anchorages. Commercial flights with the national airline, Bahamas Air, originate from Nassau, the capital of The Bahamas, and fly to Acklins and Crooked Island only twice per week on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Long Cay is only accessible by private boat or a ferry from Crooked Island.
Hotels are limited to a few bonefishing lodges scattered around the Southern Exumas, including Chester’s Highway Inn, Chester’s Bonefishing Lodge, Grey’s Point Bonefish Inn, and Ivel’s Bed and Breakfast on Acklins Island. Also, Acklins only has a population of about 500 people compared with Nassau, which has about half the landmass as Acklins with a population of about 300,000. Acklins, Crooked Island and Long Cay are relatively secluded and rural. The inhabitants fend for themselves and epitomize the simplicity of island living.
There are no gourmet restaurants, although the local food is delicious. Chester’s Highway Inn serves creamy lobster chowder as its welcome meal, and it’s chock-full of flavorful, meaty goodness. There are a few local bars for entertainment. You’ll meet a charismatic (and perhaps pestering) local drunk. You’ll also meet hard-working island people who pass the time by drinking rum and gossiping.
City slickers would likely not survive in Acklins unless they were specifically looking to go off the grid. Boaters, however, with simple tastes and plans to spend their days on the water fishing, snorkeling, diving, beaching and enjoying the outdoors, would find an attractive vacation home in Acklins, Crooked Island and Long Cay.
Launch a Kayak
Atwood Harbour, Relief Bay, and Gordon’s Bay have ample bonefishing flats. But it’s also an ideal spot to kayak. These uninhabited parts of the island hardly have any civilization to speak of. Many areas are only accessible by boat, but they all have at least one inland access point to launch a kayak. They also serve as anchorages. In Atwood Harbor, you can land a dinghy on the beach and walk about two miles to Chester’s Settlement.
Spot Flamingos
If the horizon line is glowing pink, it’s not a mirage, it’s a colony of West Indian flamingos in the distance. Acklins, Crooked Island and Long Cay all have flamingos. Flamingos are The Bahamas national bird. These regal birds are skittish about visitors, but there are three reliable places to spot them in their natural habitat: Mason’s Bay and Chester’s Pond in Acklins and Flamingo Bay in Long Cay.
Bonefishing
There’s tons of fishing in the Southern Exumas, but bonefishing is the ticket. You don’t need a boat for most of the flats. Instead, you can walk off the shoreline, wading and stalking your fish. The peak fishing months are March through November as the weather is more unstable between December and February. However, fishing is a year-round pastime in the south.
In addition to these core activities, sail around the atoll or cave on Crooked Island. There are coral gardens and historic ruins, including the remnants of slave and cotton plantations. Bird Rock Lighthouse sits on the northwestern point of Crooked Island, and Castle Island Lighthouse sits off the southern tip of Acklins. Boaters can also explore the Samana Cays to the northeast and the Plana Cays to the east.
Winter weather in The Bahamas is a relative term, particularly for those who don’t live in the southern hemisphere.
“Winter” is definitely the time to experience the culture and social life of the Abacos, but don’t rule out boating because of the windy season. Winter Weather in The Bahamas can be a toss-up. It’s no match for the barrier islands that protect the archipelago’s main boating thoroughfare, the Sea of Abaco.
The Abacos fall inside the northern trade winds that regularly bring heavy, gale-strength winds between December and February. It’s not uncommon to encounter squall lines and cold fronts blowing down from South Florida. Water temperatures can drop down to 72 degrees, which is still cozy for northerners, but quite atypical of the quintessentially warm and sunny Bahamas seas, usually 80 degrees and warmer.
On account of the winds, crossing the Gulf Stream and boating activities on the ocean side of the islands can be hit or miss during the winter. This means that some boaters opt to fly over and source a boat locally for the holidays. It also means that some boaters, particularly those on the tail end of a long stay, might be stranded until they find a clear weather window.
Hit or Miss
“You might see twenty-five to forty boats sitting in the anchorage ready to jump across, just waiting on their weather window,” says Capt. Donnie Sawyer, owner of Donnie’s Boat Rentals. “The cold fronts come down and behind the cold fronts there are gale-force winds, twenty to thirty miles per hour. It shuts the Gulf Stream down. The forecast would say small craft should exercise caution because seas are six to eight feet in the Gulf Stream. It can be dangerous to cross; sometimes you can’t do it, period.”
Winter weather in The Bahamas is also a reason to manage your fishing expectations. Steve Kappler, general manager of Treasure Cay Resort put it bluntly. “It’s cold, it’s windy and it’s not good for fishing. The good fishing starts around March, April, and May.”
With a streak of good luck, however, it is possible to find a three-to-five-day stretch of good winter weather in The Bahamas for fishing. But most times, according to Capt. Sawyer, “If you come on a week’s vacation, you might get one day out of seven to go out. You could come again and there is wind blowing at twenty to twenty-five knots for all seven days. It’s not an ideal time for fishing.”
This doesn’t deter everyone. Capt. Wade Cash, the owner of Sunset Marina Boat Rentals, says the windy weather predictions around Christmas time have not always held up in recent years.
“I have certain groups who come in every single year around Christmas just to fish. They are out on the water from dusk ’til dawn fishing. [Some will rent] a twenty-six- to thirty-one-foot center console boat from us,” he says, and makes the point, “There are a lot of windows.” Cash adds that December can be hit or miss for fishing, but it’s a good time for the wahoo bite and mahi-mahi.
Protected Waters for Winter Weather in The Bahamas
Even when the Gulf is impassable and the ocean is raging, the good news for boaters is that boating within the Sea of Abaco, amongst the many inhabited and uninhabited barrier islands, can proceed largely uninhibited during the windy months.
Great Abaco is a 100-mile-long island. About three to four miles off the mainland, running parallel, are barrier cays. These little islands stretch for about 75 miles. Between Great Abaco and the cays is the Sea of Abaco, a shallow saltwater highway with many boat harbors and sounds.
Among these cays, there are many year-round attractions tucked away on the leeward side, most notably, the beach aquarium where you can enjoy animal interactions with wild turtles, stingrays, and the iconic swimming pigs.
Party Time
In addition to these mainstays, the islands are full and festive during the holiday season, which means extra opportunities to experience the culture and social life on land. This works out for many boaters because the main draw for the winter season, even among the most hardcore, is the holiday festivities.
“I might be a bit partial, coming from Green Turtle Cay, but the entire New Plymouth settlement comes alive with people at New Year’s,” says Capt. Cash. “We have a Junkanoo parade on New Year’s Day, and we get all of the boats coming in from the surrounding islands. You might have a thousand people on the island. There are food vendors all over the street. There are bars open. It is a very festive time.”
Green Turtle Cay is only three miles long and a half-mile wide, so the entire island is essentially one big festival during the new year.
“Bringing in the New Year is the same thing. On New Year’s Eve you can go and have dinner and attend one of the parties going on,” says Cash. “Some of the local resorts have events. People leave from those events and come into the settlement where you have bands playing music and deejays. Pretty much all night long, people are roaming the streets. We have an annual Festival of Lights, so the entire settlement of New Plymouth is decorated.”
CHRISTMAS EVENTS IN THE ABACOS
Saturday, December 1
Abaco Christmas Festival in Marsh Harbour, Great Abaco Sun., Dec. 16 – Tue., Dec. 18
Christmas Village Festival in Hope Town, Elbow Cay Saturday, December 22
Festival of Lights in New Plymouth, Green Turtle Cay
IF YOU ANCHOR IN GEORGETOWN, GREAT EXUMA, without fully exploring Elizabeth Harbour, you just might have regrets, if cruising sailors are to be believed. Elizabeth Harbour is an aquatic playground of sailors, and its secrets are tucked away inside the harbor’s coves and creeks; blue holes and reefs; sand bars and obscure channels.
When the boating season peaks in The Bahamas, Elizabeth Harbour turns into a city on the sea. At sunset, the mast lights switch on when the conch horn blows. “It is like a light show on the water,” said Bahamian sailor Reginald Smith, remembering his two years living on a 43-foot Beneteau sailboat in the harbor of his native island. There are so many boats—sometimes 400 strong—and the sea is easily mistaken for a city on solid land.
Reginald started sailing as a boy of five years old learning from his father, a captain, and fisherman. With an additional 69 years of boating experience weathered into his skin, he confidently insists that Elizabeth Harbour is the most spectacular anchorage in The Bahamas. Based on its popularity for sailors, there are many who would agree, citing diverse attractions and amenities and many locations to provide 360-degree wind protection.
Today, Reginald is a real estate agent, community organizer and conservationist. He relishes the days when he can sit back on the balcony of his oceanfront home in Farmer’s Hill and watch what he calls “the migration”: incoming sailboats from eastern ports along North America to Exuma’s great port city. Many cruisers island-hop their way through the northern cays and then hunker down in Georgetown to socialize and enjoy island living.
Reginald has a 180-degree view of the boats as they make their way to Georgetown. They emerge from the north toward Rolleville, and cruise past his house toward the most popular harbor entrance, the Conch Cay cut. The sight of white sails gliding along the horizon with a background of sky and ocean blues seamlessly blended is what Reginald looks forward to witnessing every year.
“Boats of all sizes start to arrive around Thanksgiving: 25-38 footers up to 65 footers. They usually come in batches of 1 or 2, or 15 or 20. From as far as your eyes can see, they appear full head sailing, into Elizabeth Harbour. It is the most beautiful thing you have ever seen.”
Elizabeth Harbour is protected by mainland Great Exuma to the southwest and the long and narrow Stocking Island to the northeast. There are few full-service marinas in the harbor, Exuma Yacht Club is one of them, so boats anchor in clusters in the main harbor and inside one of the many coves and mooring fields like Hurricane Hole, Turtle Cove, and Red Bays.
When winds kick up, you see them move with synchronicity to different corners of the harbor or tuck inside the protected, nearly landlocked coves. While protected areas abound, inside the main harbor can get windy, causing dinghy rides to be wet and rugged.
Ordinarily, Great Exuma research is not likely to reveal the many things to do right in the harbor. The beach bar and restaurant Chat ’N Chill, a popular watering hole on Stocking Island, is a well-known spot for boaters and non-boaters alike. But other than that, exploring Great Exuma is often about heading in search of swimming pigs, land-based attractions or other parts of Exuma, like the Exuma Land and Sea Park in the northern part of the chain.
And yet, right in Elizabeth Harbour there is a channel entrance to the Moriah Cay National Park, a 16,000-acre marine ecosystem with river-like mangrove creeks, sand dunes, bird sanctuaries, pristine beaches, and marine nurseries. Reginald says it is a mistake to think of the harbor as only being picturesque. Snorkeling buoys, maintained by the Elizabeth Harbour Conservation Partnership, mark 16 top snorkeling locations inside the harbor, including Turtle Lagoon, Mystery Cave, and Fowl Cay Reef Restoration. There are dozens of beach enclaves, some of which meld into sandbars, like Cocoplum Beach and Man-O-War Beach. The sailing itself is also a harbor attraction and not just at regatta time. Every February, winter residents participate in the George Town Cruising Regatta. In April, there is the National Family Island Regatta, which is the largest and oldest formal regatta in The Bahamas.
Sailing at night is a favorite pastime for Royston McGregor, a sailor and marine salvager living in Exuma. Once he has more than a half a moon and the waves are not high, he’ll be out in the harbor running sprints or playing in bigger waves near the harbor’s eastern entrance. As a local, he has the advantage of extensive inside knowledge. “The harbor has different sections, different depths and different wind conditions. Between the mainland by February Point and Crab Cay, there is a flat stretch of shallow water that is usually calm even when it’s windy,” says McGregor. “The Exuma Sailing Club uses that to practice. That’s where I like to do sprints. Windsurfers and kitesurfers also like the area for the same purpose. It is shallow enough for kite surfers to stand at low tide, which makes it great for learners.
For all that Exuma has to offer, Georgetown has hidden beauty, and it’s inside its harbor, in case you didn’t know.
REMARKABLE FOR ITS SMALL SIZE AND LOCATION, Conception Island is an oasis of nature as it used to be throughout The Bahamas.
It sits on a limestone plateau that rises from surrounding depths of more than 7,000 feet just 18nm east of Cape Santa Maria at the northern tip of Long Island, but it seems a world apart from even that sparsely populated Out Island. Conception comprises approximately 4.5 square miles of land area, with some of the prettiest beaches and snorkeling to be found in these islands.
Extensive reef systems extend to the north, east and south for miles providing excellent diving and snorkeling, although it’s important to remember that this is open ocean and subject to swell even in calm conditions.
Conception, along with the adjacent Booby Cay and South Rocks, is part of the National Land and Sea Park system administered by the Bahamas National Trust. The entire area is protected; visitors are welcome but should take nothing and leave only footprints. The park here was established in 1964 and has not seen human habitation since the very early 1900s.
There is believed to have been a small fishing and farming community established here at that time, and you can see some remains of a stone wall and buildings near the south end of the West Bay anchorage.
Most boats will approach from the west, from Cat Island, Long Island, or the Exumas. The primary anchorage is West Bay, a broad crescent near the northwest corner of the island and fronted by a perfect, white-sand beach.
There are several small reef areas protecting the entrance to the bay and isolated coral heads inside, but there is ample area to anchor in clean sand with good holding. There are three moorings here that were donated to the Trust and installed for very large yachts to use. But if there is any west wind forecast, it is time to leave, and any northerly swell can make it pretty uncomfortable.
As a result of those long, isolated and uninhabited years, this is a pristine habitat for birds and marine life. There is a large concentration of tropic birds, and Booby Cay hosts nesting colonies of other sea birds. Most of the interior is mangrove fl ats and creeks that provide important nesting areas for green turtles, Nassau grouper and lobsters.
An entrance about halfway down the west coast south of West Bay provides access to the interior creeks. There is a shallow bar across the entrance, so plan to go an hour or so before high tide. Inside, there is plenty of depth for your dinghy or kayak, and you will see many kinds of marine life in the shallows. Behind the north end of the anchorage, hiking trails lead to the east side, more small beaches, and numerous tidal pools to explore. This is one of several islands believed to have been visited by Columbus on his first voyage.
You may feel a little like an explorer yourself as you wander its pristine shores.
Just look at the Chart and you will know where the name came from. It may not be very imaginative, but Long Island is certainly descriptive for this, one of the most easily accessible of the Out Islands.
Nearly 80 miles long from northwest to southeast and only a few miles wide, Long Island seems to stretch on forever. The banks on the west side make up an attractive and varied cruising ground for moderate draft vessels. They can be reached from Exuma Sound to the north or across the bank from the George Town area.
The island is about 80 miles long and 4 miles wide at its widest point. The Tropic of Cancer runs through the northern quarter of the island.
The northeast side of is noted for its steep rocky headlands, while the southwest coast is noted for its broad white beaches with soft sand. The terrain ranges widely throughout the island, including white flat expanses from which salt is extracted, swamplands, beaches, and sloping (in the north) and low (in the south) hills.
It is particularly noted for its caves, which have played a major role in the island’s history. Dean’s Blue Hole, located west of Clarence Town, is the world’s second deepest underwater sinkhole, dropping to a depth of about 200 meters, making it more than double the depth of most other large holes.
Once again, the readers of Southern Exposure DELIVERED. Thank you all so much for the pictures and videos of the famous swimming pigs. I had a blast looking through these wildly fun pig pictures and reminiscing about The Bahamas.
So without further ado, your user-submitted pig pics!
Follow the Leader
Coryne, from Intermarine, sent us the first four photos, including this dynamic duo.
Up close and personal
Coryne also sent this glamour shot.
Hate to see you go, love to watch you leave
“As a boat dealer every year we organize trips with our customers to explore different areas of the Bahamas,” said Coryne.
Taking a Dip
“The Exumas was our destination two years ago and we did enjoy swimming with the pigs.”
Come on aboard
“The Exumas remain one of my favorite places on earth- but for the unbelievably gorgeous islands, not because of the pigs!” — Ann Crumpton, Alabama.
Four’s a Crowd.
“Been there, done that,” said Capt. Mitchell of the s/v Vela Navis.
Missed Opportunity
“Too bad no one thought of making t-shirts,” continued Captian Mitchell. ” I would have bought one!”
Real Food
Winston from Southeast Salty Cruisers says, “It was so sweet, that after all the tourists get through feeding their leftovers, the piggy kiddos know where the real food is, with Mom!”
Underwater
Tony Ludovico, artist and conservationist, sent us this unique image.
Does this angle make me look fat?
Does this angle flatter my snout? Thanks to Robin Chesnie of Slipins for this image.
Hungry Pig
This little guy will need to eat a lot more to catch up to his island companions! Another fun shot from Robin of Slipins.
If you can’t fly, swim. We couldn’t resist the following video of everyone’s favorite swimming pigs.
If you’ve been to The Exumas in The Bahamas, you may have made the trip to see the swimming pigs. We saw it firsthand on our 2016 Swimsuit Shoot, and most claimed it to be the best part of the trip.
The pigs are a somewhat mysterious fixture on Big Major Cay, an uninhabited island. The island is also known as Pig Beach (obviously). How did they get there? No one really knows for sure. Some say they were left by a group of sailors, who planned to come back and cook them. Or that the pigs swam over from a shipwreck nearby. Some say it was pirates.
While the origins of the pigs may be murky, one thing is very clear: the pigs are a unique must-see.
Have you been to the Exumas and seen the swimming pigs firsthand? Tell us about your experience in the comments.
If you have pictures to prove it, send them to me, erin@southernboating.com, and I’ll post them in next week’s email. Oink, oink!
The secret may be out on these tropical getaways, but rest assured—you’ll still feel like you’re on your own private island because…well, some are private islands.
The only criterion for our list of hidden getaways is blue-green water, deserted white-sand beaches and solitude. Bonus points if you can arrive by boat and avoid air travel.
Whether it’s an uninhabited island in The Bahamas or a quiet stretch of Caribbean beach, these hidden hideaways are sure to please.
Kamalame Cay Bahamas
Kamalame Cay is a small barrier island located in Andros. With spectacular views of the Atlantic and copious natural attractions, Kamalame Cay has the feel of your own private island.
Lie on the beach with a book or try flats fishing, but whatever you do—enjoy it.
Nickmamed ‘Land of Reefs’, Carriacou is located in the southeastern Caribbean Sea, northeast of Grenada. The island boasts some of the best snorkeling and diving spots in the region.
You’ll surely find quiet and solitude in one of more than 33 dive sites, but be sure to bring a buddy.
This private island in the Bahamas has only six (yes, six) villas along sugar sand shores. Each private villa comes with its own boat and lessons on how to operate it. Over uninhabited 50 acres provide ample opportunities to relax and unwind.
Staniel Cay is an easy boat ride away if you began to yearn for the company of others.
Winter may be here, but the Bahamas are still warm and buzzing. Don’t despair in the winter blues– there are Bahamian festivals to attend, Junkanoo music to hear, and tiny islands to explore.
Little Farmer’s Cay, Exumas Little Farmer’s Cay is a quintessential Bahamian Out Island. First settled by a freed female slave and her children, it was permanently willed to her descendants. They can build here but not sell to outsiders. Today, it’s a small and friendly community that welcomes cruisers to an experience that feels like a step back in time. With a population of approximately 60 people, this tiny cay is quiet, relatively undeveloped, and dotted with attractive homes and lush vegetation. Little Farmer’s is located on the banks side of the southern Exuma Cays just 20 nm south of the better-known Staniel Cay. It’s easily reached from either the south or north on the banks side. Pay close attention to your charts, as the preferred deeper water tracks are surrounded by isolated coral heads and sand bores. Farmer’s Cay Cut offers access from Exuma Sound, but use caution in this cut. It’s wide, deep and easy to read, but a large swell from sustained easterly winds against an ebb tide can make it a rough ride. The currents are also quite strong. Dockage is available at Farmer’s Cay Yacht Club, and moorings can be rented from the Yacht Club and Ocean Cabin (oceancbn.com). The best anchorage in settled easterly winds is on the west side of the island off the beach.
The 5 Fs Festival The first weekend in February is homecoming weekend for Little Farmer’s Cay. Scores of family and friends from off island converge for a celebration that includes the biggest C class sloop regatta in the Exumas. Dozens arrive Friday on the Captain C, the inter-island mail boat, which also carries many of the sloops on deck, while other visitors come by private boat or small plane.
The beach scene at Ty’s Sunset Bar & Grill. Photo credit: Rex Noel
Regatta trophies will be awarded to the winners. Photo credit Rex Noel
Crews hike out the pry boards. Photo credit: Rex Noel
The festival has become known as The First Friday in February Farmer’s Cay Festival, hence the 5 Fs. It’s so popular with cruisers that you may find 100 or more cruising boats anchored or moored around the island for the weekend. The center of the celebration and regatta headquarters are at Ty’s Sunset Bar & Grill on the southwest side of the cay. Just outside their front door is the airport runway, which also serves as “Main Street” on this part of the island. Out the back door is one of the prettiest beaches you’ll find. Good food, music and dancing, along with the regatta announcers and trophy presentations continue all weekend on Ty’s deck.
Class C sloop racing is the spectacle that brings many of the visitors to this festival. These are traditional Bahamian boats built entirely of wood and carry a single sail that looks far too big for the boat. Watching them race in a big breeze is an exciting show. By rule, they must be owned, built and sailed by Bahamians. With that huge sail, keeping these boats upright is a challenge. The solution is to use “pry boards” or long planks that are extended out over the side. Up to four crewmen sit out on the boards to counter the force of the sail and keep the boat upright and flat for maximum speed.
The unique race start is very much a part of the attraction. Each boat actually anchors approximately 50 feet to leeward of the start line. When the starting gun goes off, the crew raises the anchor and sail simultaneously, then sails as quickly as possible to the start line and upwind to the first mark. This makes for close and exciting racing at the line. The crew slides in and out on the pry boards, and when tacking they move the boards across the boat to the other side. Timing is critical because if not done perfectly, the boat can capsize.
The finish line is usually set just off the beach at Ty’s for maximum spectator benefit, which means that the boats wind through the anchored cruising boats as they approach and sometimes pass just a few feet away. This makes your cockpit one of the best vantage points for the race. With boats from all over The Bahamas, there are rivalries going on here that, as visitors, we can only guess the origin. Captains, crews and visitors gather on the beach after the racing, and the party goes on into the evening.
Junkanoo Parade A massive Junkanoo Parade transforms the streets of downtown Nassau on Boxing Day, December 26th, and again on January 1st, with goombay drums, horns and fantastic costumes moving to the beat. One of the oldest surviving street festivals in the Caribbean, Junkanoo has roots in traditional African music and dates back to the 17th century. But get some sleep, because the parade won’t begin until after midnight and lasts up to eight hours. Buy tickets in advance at junkanootix.com.
By Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine December 2016
There are two full-service outboard shops in George Town: Minns Water Sports and Brown’s Marine. Minns is a Yamaha dealer and Brown’s sells Suzukis. Brown’s can handle almost any size outboard boat with engines up to 350 horsepower. These outboard shops are especially important because they provide excellent services so far south of Nassau.
February Point just opened a new restaurant, the Rusty Anchor, which I highly recommend. The new building has a lovely view across the flats to Crab Cay, the food is upscale and the staff is as cheerful and efficient as anywhere in The Bahamas. Moor your dinghy at their new marina and walk a few yards to the restaurant. februarypoint.com
One of the jewels of George Town is Diane Minns’ Sandpiper Arts & Crafts, a store with quality items for the whole family. When you are done shopping, step next door to the Driftwood Café or across the street to Peace and Plenty for lunch. You old timers may like to know that Lerman Rolle, “The Doctor of Libation,” still mans the bar at Peace and Plenty.
Late April is when George Town becomes really enjoyable. This year the National Family Island Regatta is April 26-30. The regatta is great fun and one of the most photogenic events anywhere. After the regatta most of the cruisers start to leave—some to head to the Caribbean for hurricane season and others head back to the U.S. For those who want peace and quiet, this is the beginning of the best cruising in Exuma and a great time to run out and back to the southeast islands. Great Exuma remains one of the very best locations for flats fishing, and there are excellent locations to fish in almost any weather.
The Doctor of Libation,” mural by Sally Rolle
Jason deCaires Taylor’s sculpture The Musician. Photo Stephen Connett
Loggerhead turtles mating. Photo: Lorraine Minns
Turtle sex
April is the beginning of the mating and nesting season for sea turtles in The Bahamas. Please keep a sharp look out as you travel along the ocean shores of all the islands. Loggerheads are especially vulnerable to boat strikes as they congregate to mate off their nesting beaches. Sea turtle populations have grown slowly since the 2009 ban on sea turtle harvest in The Bahamas, so adult breeders are especially important if this trend is to continue.
Abacos
A reminder for all birders and wildlife enthusiasts in The Bahamas, especially the Abacos, the website, rollingharbour.com, continues to publish amazing photos and general information about birds and other wildlife around the Delphi Club on Abaco.
Farmer’s Cay
According to Roosevelt Nixon—owner/operator of the Farmer’s Cay Yacht Club & Marina—all mooring chains and lines have been replaced with new stainless steel chains and 3/4-inch lines, and the dock and seaport has been re-planked including new braces. That is very good news for those who enjoy Farmer’s Cay and want to moor safely at the dock or in the main channel with easy access to the Club—the restaurant is open from 9AM to 12AM. Roosevelt is always helpful and very proud of his cay. Call (242) 355-4017.
Underwater art
One of the not-so-perfectly-kept secrets of the Exumas is the underwater piano and mermaid sculpture off Rudder Cut Cay. Sculptor Jason deCaires Taylor’s The Musician (commissioned by renowned illusionist David Copperfield) sits in about 12 feet of water and is easily reached by snorkelers. The location of the sculpture is now published in the latest edition of the Explorer Chartbook. Taylor has created stunning underwater sculptures in a range of locations, including his work in the Coral Reef Sculpture Garden in southwest New Providence. underwatersculpture.com
Mariah Harbour Land and Sea Park
The boundaries of Mariah Harbour Cay Land and Sea Park have finally been set. The park includes the southern part of Elizabeth Harbour from the south end of Stocking Island to Pigeon Cay (north of Little Exuma) and includes several important land areas. The park is known to include several endangered species such as piping plovers, iguanas, sea turtles, and a rich variety of other wildlife. Scientific surveys have also shown that this area is an unusually healthy nursery for crawfish. Mariah Harbour Park is a major addition to the national park system and ensures that Elizabeth Harbour and the surrounding waters are protected.
Outreach efforts to engage stakeholders are underway and will be part of the process to determine an official management plan for the park. The Bahamas is among the world leaders in marine conservation, and hopes are that all visitors and boating friends obey Bahamian fisheries regulations and respect the extraordinary environment.
Keep abreast of the latest fishing regulations for your location in the U.S. and Bahamian waters with the very useful app for smart phones fishrulesapp.com. This app is updated regularly and also has excellent fish identification guides.
by Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine April 2016
An experienced couple shares their favored routes and their tips for anchoring in the Bahamas.
No matter how many times we cruise The Bahamas we cannot wait to return to its pristine beauty. Like many cruisers, we have our favorite routes and islands. Anchoring in the islands offers some unique challenges since bottom conditions vary widely—there is excellent sand but also scoured-out rocky channels, heavy grass, and thin sand over rock. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
Heavy grass fouls the anchor, and thin sand over rock doesn’t give the anchor a chance to dig in, but we generally find good holding. Entering some anchorages requires complete vigilance and attention to depths, but the payoff is well worth the effort of time and attention. Here our some of our best tips for anchoring in The Bahamas.
A view from the Great Harbour Cay Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
An ocean view from N. Bimini Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The clean sandy beach at Bimini Beach Club. Photo: Chuck Baier.
1. Our preferred route from Florida to The Bahamas is via Biminito clear Customs.
The most preferred spot to anchor is off the docks of the Big Game Club in Alice Town, where the marina offers dinghy access to town. The second is at the northern end of the harbor near the new resort and casino, Resorts World. As with any anchorage in The Bahamas, check to be sure the anchor is well set and be aware of strong currents in Bimini Harbor.
2. Upon departing the Bimini area, you’ll either head north to North Rock or south to North Cat Cay to cross onto the Great Bahama Bank.
Deeper-draft vessels will find better depths on the northerly route across. From Bimini, we head north to North Rock and then almost due east to Great Harbour on the northern end of the Berry Islands. Leaving at daybreak and heading across the banks puts you close enough to anchor and finish the trip the next morning (for slower vessels) or a long day to anchor at dusk for trawlers. The anchorage at Bullocks Harbor gives easy access to the settlement and the town dock for landing the dinghy. There is thick grass on the bottom, so look for a sandy patch to drop the anchor. Inside Hawksnest on the east side of Great Harbor Cay is a spectacular anchorage with miles of white sandy beaches. Soldier Cay, Hoffman’s Cay, White and Fowl Cay offer more solitude and exploration possibilities. Cruisers can easily spend a month or more just exploring the many anchorages throughout the Berry Islands.
3. Nassau on New Providence is the next port of call.
Anchoring in the harbor can be difficult since the current has scoured it clean, but there are a couple of sandy patches with fair holding just west of the bridge to Paradise Island or off the eastern channel near the Nassau Harbour Club. Be aware, however, that currents are strong and boat wakes are a problem. If you don’t need provisions or have already cleared in, we recommend anchoring at Rose Island located northeast of New Providence. It’s far away from everything but a good place to stage to head south into the Exumas.
Susan Landry combing the beach for a remembrance. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Watching a storm from a gazebo on Treasure Cay Beach at the Coco Beach Bar. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The intense colors of a storm on Treasure Cay Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
4. Your next destination will be the Exumas.
Anchorages are plentiful and each should be considered based on the how much wind protection you need and from what direction. The trip from Nassau or Rose Island to Allen’s Cay is about 28nm and takes you across the “dreaded” Yellow Banks. The banks, however, are not as formidable as some would suggest. Ensure you have the sun high overhead and someone positioned on the bow, flybridge or the mast for a good view of your path ahead. The coral heads are easily negotiated.
5. As you travel south in the Exumas your daily runs will be short.
Don’t miss any of the wonderful anchorages in the 100 or so miles to George Town. Some of the highlights are Allen’s Cay with its greedy iguanas, Norman’s Cay with its cozy inner anchorages, Warderick Wells—possibly the most beautiful place on earth—, Staniel Cay with its Thunderball Grotto of James Bond fame, and the swimming pigs of Big Majors Cay. Farther to the south is the settlement of Black Point, another friendly outpost, and Farmer’s Cay with its yacht club festivities. Between there and George Town are any number of remote locales to drop the hook. Deep-draft boats will likely exit at Galliot Cut to make for George Town, while shoal-draft vessels can travel along the inside to Rat Cay, Square Rock or Glass Cay Cuts before heading out into Exuma Sound for George Town at Conch Cay.
Many boats just make for George Town and plant themselves there for the duration. Once you get there, it’s easy to see why. There are activities every day on the beaches on Stocking Island, places to provision ashore and new friends to make. Anchor off Stocking Island in the various locations—Church Bay, Volleyball or Sand Dollar Beaches—or just off the town in Kidd Cove for provisioning or laundry. Or, try Red Shanks behind Crab Cay on the south side of the harbor. Settling in Georgetown is one of our favorite tips for anchoring in the Bahamas
6. Departing George Town, head back north in the Exuma chain to Warderick Wells again as it deserves two stops.
From there exit Warderick Cut and make the run northeast to Powell Point on Eleuthera. Head around and into Rock Sound and anchor just off of the settlement.
A conch shell pile in Gregory Town. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Dinghies tied to the dock at Abaco. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Anchored on the public dock at Green Turtle Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A spectacular view of the ocean from a beach house deck on Sip Sip Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
7. From Rock Sound north there are any number of great anchorage stops.
This includes South Palmetto Point, Governors Harbour, Hatchet Bay, and Spanish Wells. None of the anchorages are very far apart making for easy trips. The area around Spanish Wells is deserving of at least a few days at exploration due to its interesting history. Take the ferry to Harbour Island to explore Dunmore Town.
8. From Spanish Wells make your way north to the Abacos.
The crossing to Little Harbor from either Spanish Wells or Egg Island ranges from 45 to 50nm. Enter through the reef between Little Harbour and Lynyard Cay; head north for the anchorage behind Lynyard or south to the wonderful Little Harbour. The harbor is for shoal-draft vessels only and will be your key to rich Abaco history and of the Johnston family who settled this area. Lynyard Cay is close enough to anchor and dinghy to Little Harbour, and provides good holding and protection from prevailing easterlies.
9. As you work your way north, on the north end of Elbow Cay is Hope Town, a must-see.
Anchor outside of the harbor and dinghy in—anchoring inside is now prohibited. The hub of the Abacos, Marsh Harbour, is only about 10nm to the west and Man O’ War is just to the north. These are all wonderful places where you could spend months.
Three dinghies anchored on Powerful Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Chuck Baier and Susan Landry enjoy the view of Great Harbour Cay from the swim platform of their trawler “Sea Trek.”
Public beach at Rainbow Beach and Cay. Photo: Chuck Baier.
A fish market near Fort Montagu. Photo: Chuck Baier.
10. Moving on to the Sea of Abaco, two of our favorites are Treasure Cay and Green Turtle Cay.
We also love the anchorage at Manjack Cay. Powell Cay is a short hop north of Manjack with Spanish Cay just beyond.
11. Once you reach Crab Cay head west toward Hawksbill Cay and Fox Town.
Your exit from The Bahamas will take you past Great Sale Cay. Anchor in the cove on the west side or on the east side for those occasional westerlies. Then, head beyond Mangrove Cay to anchor near West End.
12. Cross to Florida’s Lake Worth Inlet, a distance of about 56nm, or to St. Lucie Inlet, about 67nm.
Wherever your destination in The Bahamas might be this time around, there will always be more anchorages to explore on your next trip.
Hope Town lighthouse an downtown view from a beach dune. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Beach houses on South Palmetto Point. Photo: Chuck Baier.
The lighthouse on Paradise Island. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Palm trees and the ocean view on Montagu Beach. Photo: Chuck Baier.
Helpful Tips for Anchoring in the Bahamas:
Anchors & Equipment During our last journey through The Bahamas, the “next generation” anchor proved itself to be the best all-around anchor we’ve used—there are brands with very similar designs and characteristics that perform well. The prudent skipper will carry a second anchor for those severe weather conditions and the few times a second anchor is needed to deploy a Bahamian Moor.
The Bahamian Moor is two anchors set off the bow at a 180° angle from each other, used to keep the boat’s swinging circle limited to a small area. It’s good for strong reversing currents like those found in cuts, or where there is limited space. In many of our anchorages, good holding in deep sand is the norm. Even in a sandy bottom, small patches of rock and coral are often present.
You should also have a sufficient amount of the correct size chain as a primary part of the anchor rode. Most anchoring will be done in 10 feet or less, so a minimum of 100 feet is recommended, but the more, the better. Nylon anchor rode can and will chafe through very quickly when rubbing back and forth on a piece of rock or coral.
Finding the Right Spot Anchoring in The Bahamas offers some unique challenges. Often heavy grass will blanket large sections of some of the better anchorages, which prevents the anchor from setting properly. Look for sandy patches seen as white patches within the grass. Pull forward to the edge of the sandy patch, drop the anchor and back down slowly until the anchor has set about in the center of the patch. Once the anchor rode is stretched out, back down slowly until you are comfortable the anchor has set. It’s a wise idea to snorkel over the anchor to be sure it is indeed set.
Beware of what might look like a sandy bottom but is actually a thin layer of sand over rock or coral. If the anchor appears to be set, it may only be in a narrow crevice and will release as soon as the boat shifts on the rode. Many times the anchor will simply skip across the bottom. In this situation, it’s often best to try and relocate to another spot. Weather conditions and wind strength and direction will play a very important role in where to safely anchor. Make monitoring the weather and knowing what conditions to expect part of your regular anchoring routine.
By Chuck Baier, Southern Boating May 2015
About the Author: Chuck Baier and Susan Landry have cruised for almost 25 years, first on their Mariner 40 Ketch Sea Trek, and currently on their Marine Trader trawler Beach House. Chuck and Susan are owners of Beach House Publications, publishers of The Great Book Of Anchorages series of anchorage guides, which cover the Chesapeake Bay; Atlantic ICW from Hampton Roads/Norfolk to Key West and include the St. Johns River; The Bahamas-The Route Most Traveled; and the Gulf Coast from Cape Sable to Mobile, including the Okeechobee Waterway.
The Marina at Emerald Bay is situated amidst the turquoise waters of Great Exuma Island alongside Sandals Emerald Bay Resort. Housing 150 boat slips ranging from 40 to 240 feet, the idyllic location of this full-service marina provides many advantages, as well as a magnificent view.
Excellent bone fishing and deep-sea fishing grounds and a newly built children’s playground offer fun for all ages. One-of-a-kind classic comforts can be found in the Hemingway Room, Chart Room, Billiards Room, and Harbourmaster Room (coming this year). In 2014, the marina plans to revive Wahoo’s Restaurant and Bar, a popular watering hole, and upgrade the floating docks and electrical systems, open a fitness/work out center, and establish on-site convenience stores.
In addition to its extensive on-site amenities, Marina at Emerald Bay also offers guests a wide variety of special rates for a neighboring oceanfront championship golf course designed by Greg Norman, the Red Lane Spa, and access to the infinity pool and seven restaurants at Sandals Resort.
The marina also offers all active, retired and former military personnel a 10 percent discount on all items with the exception of diesel and gasoline. To qualify, present a current military identification card or a military discharge certificate. The discount includes members of both the Ready Reserve and the National Guard.
• 150 slips
• 40′-240′ LOA
• Sewage pump-outs at each slip
• 30/50/100 amp 120/240
• R/O water
• High-capacity fuel tanks with high-volume pumps
• Floating docks
• 24-hour security
• Monitors for Channel 16 and 11
• Concierge services
• Complimentary laundry facilities
• Immigration and Customs on site
• Showers
• Complimentary Wi-Fi
Rates:
• 40-59 ft. US $2.25 per foot
• 60-99 ft. US $2.75 per foot
• 100 plus ft. US $3.25 per foot
• Electricity $0.85 kW
• Water U.S. $0.40 per gallon
• Sewage pump-out U.S. $25.00
14+ nights minimum stay: $0.75 discount off above prices
30+ nights minimum stay: $1.50 discount off above prices
Located at channel marker #2 at 23.38.118 N, 075.54.928 W
By Christine Carpenter, Southern Exposure
The Bahamas Reef Environment Educational Foundation (BREEF) has recently established a spectacular Coral Reef Sculpture Garden just off Clifton Bluff in southwest New Providence (25–00.5N/77–33.0W). If you stay at Albany or Lyford Cay or anchor in West Bay, it is an easy dinghy ride to the Garden in settled weather.
BREEF calls the garden “a perfect fusion of art, education and marine conservation.” It will promote the growth of new coral, provide fish habitats and relieve some of the pressure on the natural reefs in the area. The garden is already a regular dive site for Stuart Cove.
The impressive sculptures by local and international artists are all built of concrete, which provide a substrate for new coral. Scattered around the artwork are reef balls which are excellent artificial habitats for fish. The garden is in about 20 feet of water so is easily seen from the surface while snorkeling. breef.org
Sandy Point, Abaco Some additions to the cruising life are just plain fun. Brad and Ceril, residents of Abaco, have built a floating bar in Sandy Point. In the summer months their barge is anchored just off the beach and has a small raft on a line that gets people back and forth from shore. The bar supplies a basic choice of beverages out of a cooler, and music is provided from a boom box plugged into a car battery. There is room around the barge to tie up your dinghy. From personal experience, drinking a cold beer in the midsummer heat while semi-submerged on the edge of the barge is delightful.
Aids to Navigation The list of aids to navigation that are malfunctioning, abandoned, or missing continues to grow, so it is best not to rely on any of them. Gone are the days when you could depend on Great Isaac and Great Stirrup lights to guide you down the Northwest Providence Channel. The government simply hasn’t the money for maintenance. Thankfully, modern charts and electronics compensate for the loss of reliable buoys and lights. Be sure your paper and electronic charts are up-to-date and your GPS and radar are functioning properly—it is advisable to have a backup GPS. If you are not an experienced navigator you might consider traveling only in daylight, and it is never a bad idea to call ahead to a marina and ask for local knowledge and advice.
Cape Eleuthera Marina The facility now sports a new swimming pool, the beach has been enlarged, docks are still in excellent condition, Pascal’s restaurant is open at the T-dock, and the staff are as helpful as ever. The showers and laundry are air-conditioned and clean, and the store has a good supply of snacks, liquor and bait. An added plus, the fuel dock never seems to run out of diesel and gas.
Westerly winds cause a miserable surge in the marina, but the staff will try to place you in one of the slips with minimal movement. Regardless, you will be safe even if you are in a slip with a lot of surge, and you will be happy when the wind clocks around to the east and sad to leave.
For fresh Bahamian food call ahead to Sheryl’s Inn (242-334-8111) in Deep Creek for supper. Sheryl’s does not serve alcohol but you can bring your own or go across the road to Friendly Bob’s bar and liquor store and carry beverages back to Sheryl’s.
Stone Crab Fishery, Eleuthera A stone crab company is now operating in the Bight of Eleuthera. Bahama Biters (bahamabiters.com) has invested in hundreds of stone crab pots so Styrofoam buoys are everywhere. Keep a good lookout wherever you go in the Bight, and if you run at night know that you might snag a buoy.
Staniel Cay, Exumas The Staniel Cay Yacht Club building has just finished a major upgrade. The kitchen, dining room, gift shop, and restrooms are completely rebuilt. The new dining room is lovely, overlooks the channel and is open to the fresh air or air-conditioned when that is more comfortable. There is a new chef with a good menu and prices are fair. The restaurant is open for lunch and there are two seatings for supper—reservations are strongly recommended. Breakfast is still served in the old dining room, which has been redone. For those who relished the sailors’ charm and controlled chaos of the old club, the bar has only replaced overhead lights and is still as cheerful as ever. Local residents and cruisers still engage in lively conversation and consumption of beverages and bar food.
