Float Into Mardi Gras

Plan a stopover along the Mississippi River to join the festivities at New Orleans’ biggest celebration of the year.

It’s a little after eight in the morning. There’s a slight chill in the air, but the sun is shining on the assembled throng milling around in front of the Lost Love Lounge. They’re an otherworldly group who seem to have been beamed down from Mars. Two bare-chested men at 12 o’clock appear to be channeling centaurs? unicorns? sporting gold and silver foil lamé chaps, horns, and metallic face paint. A cute little family sidle by, mom and dad dressed like Thing One and Thing Two and pulling junior as…the Grinch? in a sequined wagon that also holds a cooler of beer. Just then a brass band with a Klezmer accent marches by, trombones swinging side to side in the breeze.

Welcome to just one of the ways that the locals celebrate Fat Tuesday, the culmination of Carnival season that kicks off on twelfth night, ushering in weeks of King Cakes, parades, fancy balls, marching bands, and lots and lots of beads, 12-and-a-half tons at last weigh-in.

Forget the drunken revelry on Bourbon Street, that’s for tourists. The real Mardi Gras is a family affair, a massive street party that rejoices in traditions new and old. It’s also a citywide event that’s still gloriously free of charge and sponsors.

’Tis the Season
Organized by krewes, the social clubs that work all year on themes, floats, and costumes, most parades roll from uptown down St. Charles Avenue to Canal Street, all primo viewing areas, with high school marching bands, 50-foot-long floats tricked out with LED lights and gobs of glitter, and dancing krewes with names like the Cherry Bombs and the Disco Amigos.

A season of nonstop action, Mardi Gras includes an endless array of parades, masked and unmasked balls, pageants, and King Cake parties. King Cakes are a coveted, usually sweet, cake topped with purple, green, and sugar. Pastry chefs around town get creative and add savory flavors and unusual fillings into the mix. Don’t miss a stop at Bywater Bakery, where eight flavors of King Cake, including three savory options, deliver the best of the season. Each cake has a tiny plastic baby placed inside. Getting the slice with the baby is a good omen and, traditionally, means you have to throw the next King Cake party.

There are some 80 parades in and around New Orleans, and it’s impossible to catch them all. But for Carnival lovers, the three original super krewes, Orpheus, Endymion, and Bacchus, are at the top of the viewing list—spectacular parades known for intricate floats, high-tech wizardry, awesome throws, and grand costumes and themes. The all-female Muses, with their shoe theme, and Nyx, who claim purses as their krewe symbol, also claim super krewe status, rolling between 25 and 42 elaborate floats. The biggest parades feature celebrity kings and queens with the likes of Kid Rock and Britney Spears holding court for a day.

Leading up to Fat Tuesday, visitors and locals adore the smaller, quirky, neighborhood parades like Chewbacchus, powered by sci-fi enthusiasts and rolling UFOs of wacky design; ‘tit Rex, a lineup of darling shoebox-sized mini-floats, and Barkus, a four-legged parade of costumed canine stars. The sassiest parade is definitely the racy and irreverent Krewe du Vieux, known for wild satire and adult themes lampooning local government and politicians, but in reality, anything goes.

Mardi Gras Day is always the day before Lent begins, which is determined by the Advent calendar and when Easter falls, so it’s different every year. On Mardi Gras Day, there are tons of options, from roving dance parties in Jackson Square to catching Zulu coconuts on Claiborne or seeing Rex, the King of Carnival, uptown. Step along with the brilliantly costumed march of Societé de Saint Anne, an array of nutty creatives that collect costumed marchers from Bywater into the French Quarter and stop at bars to celebrate along the way.

If you stay away from Bourbon Street and catch parades uptown in Mid-City, Metairie, and the West Bank, these celebrations are a family affair with multiple generations following traditions that have ruled Carnival since the French brought the fête to the Mississippi shores in the late 1600s.

Where to Stay

Mardi Gras is the highest of seasons, so it’s best to plan ahead. Prices spike, minimum-stay requirements, and “no cancellation” policies apply. That said, there are more than 22,000 rooms in the downtown area and more than 38,000 in the greater metro area, so there are options. The Eliza Jane, Jung Hotel & Residences, NOPSI, Holiday Inn Express, and HI New Orleans are just a few newish-hotels close to parade routes. Visit NewOrleans.com to source hotels of all stripes.

Marinas
There are a handful of full-service marinas available, close to the south shore of Lake Pontchartrain.

Schubert’s Marine: (504) 282-8136; schubertsmarine.com
Seabrook Harbor and Marine: (504) 283-6001; seabrookharbormarine.com
South Shore Harbor Marina: (504) 245-3152; marinasinneworleans.com

Getting Around
Traffic and navigating during Mardi Gras is a challenge because so many streets are closed. Bike, walk, take a cab, or rideshare, but expect premium prices and delays. Don’t let it get to you; it’s as much about the journey and who you meet and greet as the location. There is public transit, but check Regional Transit Authority for schedules. norta.com

Restrooms
Finding a bathroom along parade routes is a thing. There are several bars along the way. Some charge for wristbands and access, but it’s worth it. Some homeowners rent theirs, and the city brings in the ever-popular porta-potties. Go when you have the chance.

Safety
There’s plenty of police presence to make the walk from uptown to downtown safer than at other times of year. Still, pay attention to your surroundings and keep your stuff close.

Beyond the Parades
Order a Sazerac at Sazerac Bar. Cocktail wags largely agree that the Sazerac is one of the oldest examples of the American cocktail. Worship at the altar of Sazerac at the impeccable Sazerac Bar in the gorgeous Roosevelt Hotel where the 19th century original recipe is favored. therooseveltneworleans.com

Stay up late with Rebirth at the Maple Leaf. Rebirth Brass was founded in 1983 upon the notion that New Orleans brass doesn’t come in just one flavor. The Grammy Award-winning band, known for its legendary Tuesday late night gig at the Maple Leaf, uptown on Oak Street, upholds the tradition of brass and plays it forward by bringing funk and hip-hop into the mix. mapleleafbar.com

Roll on down the river. A ride on the Steamboat Natchez isn’t just for tourists. A throwback to the days when steamboats cruised the mighty Mississippi for commerce and pleasure, the Natchez reveals just how busy this working river remains. It’s a real treat to travel the river the old school way, sipping a fine bloody Mary and dancing to the Dukes of Dixieland, a brass forward jazz band that never disappoints. steamboatnatchez.com

Visit a Mardi Gras Museum. While you’re at Arnaud’s drinking a French 75 at the bar, extend the festive mood with a visit to the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum upstairs, a lavish costume display that will have you longing for carnival season. arnaudsrestaurant.com

Eat This
Off the beaten tourist track, the family-run Katie’s in Mid-City is a friendly neighborhood restaurant that serves a winning “cochon de lait” sandwich, a two-hander stuffed with tender, slow-roasted pork and topped with horseradish Creole coleslaw. katiesinmidcity.com

Although Central Grocery is the original spot for the Italian muffuletta sandwich, head to Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski’s Cochon Butcher, a swine palace of piggy goodness that dishes a killer version stuffed with house cured meats. cochonbutcher.com

Save room for dessert at the handsomely redone Brennan’s on Royal Street. After a cocktail-fueled Breakfast at Brennan’s, a three-hour process powered by the likes of turtle soup and eggs Sardou, it’s time for the floor show and tableside bananas foster, a dramatically flambéed dessert that was invented right here. brennansneworleans.com

It’s quite a show, and the Mardi Gras Parade Tracker app (mardigrasparadetracker.com) can help you navigate your way. Another resource is Arthur Hardy’s Mardi Gras Guide (mardigrasguide.com), which is also sold at most French Quarter stores. Enjoy, and laissez les bons temps rouler!

Bahamian Hideouts

The Secret (and Not So Secret) Spots

The Bahamas has an abundance of hidden coves, undisturbed beaches, and little gems not on the typical tourist map.

By Chris Casswell, Southern Boating May 2020

I had just checked out on a boat for a Bahamas bareboat charter and was leaning against the counter chatting with a young man about things to see and do when I noticed that the office’s secretary kept giving him the stink eye. I didn’t know why until the rest of my crew came in and we went over to look at some brochures. I heard her hiss to him, “Don’t be givin’ away all of our secrets, mon…he a mainlander.”

So, I thought, there are secrets that Bahamians keep to themselves, tourism be damned. Well, I’m here to share some of those secrets.

Great Inagua

On this island, the farthest from Nassau and seemingly frozen in time, don’t miss the flamingos, which hang out on the salt flats created by Morton’s Salt in the ’30s. Yes, the “When it rains, it pours” folks have a major salt harvest here. Having been nursed for seven decades by the National Audubon Society (starting from a herd of just 100 birds), West Indian flamingoes now outnumber humans on the island 80-to-1 with some 80,000 in residence. Don’t stop there. Inagua is also known for Bahamas parrots and Inagua hummingbirds as well as wild donkeys, goats, and boar.

Beachside/Roadside Conch Bars

You’ll find these on every island and lining many of the beaches. Usually just pieces of driftwood thrown together, they offer superb conch menus and ice-cold local beers. Try the conch salads (the one shown is from Joe’s Conch Shack near Bailey Town on Bimini), jerk chicken, and fish offerings.

Dean’s Blue Hole

If Earth was a bowling ball, the blue holes would be where you put your fingers. There are blue holes worldwide, but only one is deeper than Dean’s Blue Hole and drops down to an astounding 663 feet, which is far below what the human body can tolerate. Nevertheless, this is where free divers come to test their skill, competing to see who can dive the deepest (and live) on a single lungful of air. The current record is 331 feet. Yikes! Dean’s Blue Hole is located off a sandy beach just up the coast from Clarence Town on Long Island. The Flying Fish Marina is in Clarence Town and is a designated port of entry. deansbluehole.org; flyingfishmarina.com

Swimming Pigs

Most everyone has heard about the swimming pigs, but I’m always surprised by experienced skippers who’ve never been to Pig Beach on Big Major Cay in the Exumas. Maybe they just hate bacon. The pigs come right up to the boat expecting to be fed, so do bring food, and be sure to keep your fingers out of the way. There’s good anchorage offshore.

Blue Lagoon Island

Also known as Salt Cay, this private island has a tourism side that makes it popular with tour boats, especially later in the day. Not so much a secret, the island has a hidden lagoon, coral reefs, exotic birds, and a beach shared with sea lions, sea turtles, and dolphin encounters. bahamasbluelagoon.com

Queen’s Baths and Glass Window Bridge

Take a taxi to get the best vantage point where two bodies of water meet: the clear, blue Atlantic and the turquoise Caribbean. What is spectacular is the distinct separation between this pair directly under the Glass Window Bridge along Queen’s Highway on Eleuthera. Originally painted by Winslow Homer in 1885, the natural bridge was washed away by hurricanes.

The Queen’s Baths is just south of the Glass Window Bridge and dotted with sun-warmed hot pools. Take reef walkers because there are urchins, and it can be slippery. Skip it at high tide when the baths refill. discover-eleuthera-bahamas.com

Nurse Sharks of Compass Cay

These bottom-feeding creatures make a squealing, high-pitched sound if you’re near them underwater. Don’t worry, you can mingle with them without thinking about Jaws. A private island in the Outer Exumas, it’s reachable by tender (a long haul) from Staniel Cay, so the pleasant Compass Cay Marina is a better choice. compasscaymarina.com

Bimini Road

Could this be the original Atlantis, the legendary city that sank off the earth 11,000 years ago? Evenly spaced stones stretch a half mile and look like…what? A road to a missing city? Part of a wall? Sadly, they have no tool marks, and carbon dating suggests they were made by geological forces and erosion, but it’s still fun to visit and imagine. Located about five miles off North Bimini in 18 feet of water, it’s a bit of a voyage in a tender and probably more enjoyable to take one of the snorkeling tours from a Bimini marina.

The Musician

Just off Rudder Cut Cay in the Exumas, a life-sized sculpture of a mermaid lounges against the bench of a baby grand piano. Placed by magician David Copperfield, who owns 11 islands, it was sunk as a quirky surprise for his guests. Snorkelers who can hold their breath can swim down and pose on the bench as if playing a tune. It’s about 12-15 feet down from the surface. The islands are private, but the beaches to the high-tide mark are public, and there is good anchorage nearby. Ask locals for directions: It’s just off a small sea cave at the northern end of the beach.

Pelican Beach on Great Exuma

Better known as Tropic of Cancer Beach because it intersects with the Tropic of Cancer latitude line, Pelican Beach has glorious golden sand and a small hut nearby with a painted line marking the latitude on its floor. Located in the Moore Hill establishment, there is good anchorage offshore. Be sure to sign your name in the hut alongside other boaters.

Cat Island

Truly one of the “secret” Bahamian islands, Cat Island is south of Eleuthera and far enough off the usual routes that many skip it. Its Mount Alvernia, at 206 feet, is the highest point in the Bahamas. A 10-minute hike takes you to the Hermitage, built by reclusive priest-architect Father Jerome in the ’30s for fabulous views, especially at sunset. Cat Island preserves an old-island way of life for its 1,800 residents, with Obeah religion and ripsaw (rake and scrape) music still going strong. The boyhood home of actor Sidney Poitier, the 48-mile island has no resorts, no cruise ships, and The Marina at Hawk’s Nest Resort (hawks-nest.com) is the smart place to stay. If you’re into eerie, check out the Griffin Bat Cave, once used as hurricane shelter for locals and now home to thousands of bats. You can hear and see them as they wake at sunset to leave.

Harbour Island

Called “Briland” by insiders, Harbour Island is a popular stop for yachties, but they often never leave the pleasures of Valentines Marina (valentinesresort.com) or Romora Bay Marina (romorabay.com), so they miss the bakeries in Dunmore Town. They don’t know about pineapple tarts or the incredible Bahamian bread from Henry Sands, whose bread earned him an invitation to Princess Di’s wedding. Too late for breakfast? Have lunch at Sip Sip (Bahamian for “gossip”). You’ll be sorry if you overlook the lobster quesadillas and wash them down with spicy margaritas on the patio. sipsiprestaurant.com

The Dolphin House Museum

Built of recycled materials by Bimini author and historian Ashley Saunders, the museum in Alice Town on Bimini has been called “A Poem in Stone.” It’s well worth the donation of eight bucks to wander through the amazing images and artistry that are impossible to explain. An easy walk from Bimini Big Game Club or Bimini Blue Water Marina. dolphin-house-museum.business.site

Straw Market

Well known in some circles, the Straw Market in Nassau is hokey, touristy, and great fun that is too often overlooked. Practice your haggling skills to get hats, bags, jewelry, and souvenirs. Go either early in the morning before the tourists, or late in the day when the sellers are making their best deals.

Atlantis on Pleasure Island

Sure it’s big and touristy, but there’s so much you’ll miss. Tuck into the Atlantis Marina, which rivals Monaco for quality, and you get access to what has been called “Vegas By the Sea.” Things you’ll probably miss is Aquaventure, its 141-acre water park; the Baths swimming pool, with waterfalls and caves; and the Dig, where you can snorkel in an aquarium. You may not know there are two areas with waterslides: Mayan Temple and Power Tower. atlantisbahamas.com

There are areas of the Bahamas too often overlooked by visiting skippers, and, yes, I do know about that great reef for snorkeling, but I’m not sharing. Even us mainlanders have our secrets.

Galveston, Texas

Southern Sojourn

If you’re cruising along the Simon Bolivar Peninsula, don’t be surprised to see cattle drives with Texas cowboys moving their herds over two-lane highways crossing the ICW. The wide Texas beaches on the coast hide cattle country and oil derricks and slowly give way to raised beach houses with names like “Gulf Breeze” or “Jolie’s Hideaway.” The inevitable one-horse beach shop with their airbrush artisan and seashell wind chimes are also there, but sail past historic Fort Travis and the Bolivar Lighthouse rising on the western tip of the peninsula, and Galveston Island beckons with her historic architecture, beaches and maritime culture.

Once known as a gambling mecca until the Texas Rangers raided the town, Galveston was also the largest port on the Texas coast, pulling down cotton and cattle from the interior and ushering in generations of Indian fighters and future Texas land barons. Crossing the Houston Ship Channel to the island is spectacular, with its never-ending run of modern freighters bypassing Galveston and heading into Houston or sailing to points unknown. This leaves the island town with a different sort of nautical energy today—one of history, charter captains and resortwear.

Located on the island’s northwestern edge, the Galveston Yacht Basin is a full-service private marina and an ideal transient slip location to begin an exploration of the island. Filled with charter fishing vessels, the piers hum with skippers tinkering on their boats or, more likely, catching naps in the ubiquitous land tenders—their golf carts lining the marina. Dockside restaurants are sprouting up around the marina, and certain piers in the channel will get transients within easy walking distance of the historic downtown and seaport.

The Texas Seaport Museum with her beautifully restored 1877 Tall Ship Elissa is an ideal start to get your bearings. Lunch next door waterside at the Olympia Grill or Willie G’s and savor the contrast of Elissa with berthed luxury yachts and the modern cruise liners that now call Galveston their home port.

A surfer searches
for the perfect wave on Galveston Island Beach. Photo: Galveston Island CVB

Philadelphia Mummers perform during Mardis Gras Galveston; Photo: Galveston Island CVB

Moody Mansion was built in 1895 and offers tours. Photo: Galveston Island CVB

Pier 21 is home to 1877 Tall Ship Elissa. Photo: Troy Gilbert

Tangerine Boutique is one of more than 100 unique shops downtown. Photo: Galveston Island CVB

Moody Garden Colonel Paddlewheel Boat; Photo: Galveston Island CVB

Moody Gardens Aquarium Pyramid and golf course; Photo: Galveston Island CVB

Galveston Beach; Photo: Galveston Island CVB

The Pelican Rest Marina; Photo: Troy Gilbert

Mardi Gras in Galveston, TX; Photo: Lee Deforke, Jr.

Pier 21 is one of the most magical spots on the Island, home to restaurants, annual events, and next door to Texas Seaport Museum. Photo: Galveston Island CVB

A block away is the Strand—Galveston’s historic Victorian-era shopping district. Filled with unique shops and whimsical cafes with wrought-iron balconies on the restored historic buildings, the Strand is the pulse of Galveston. Shop at the Admiralty for some of the finest ship replicas constructed from scratch using their original ship plans, or enjoy freshly made saltwater taffy at LaKing’s Confectionary. Catch a carriage ride through the historic residential neighborhoods filled with homes straight out of New Orleans’ Garden District. Tour or catch a show at the Grand 1894 Opera House before finishing with dinner and drinks at the legendary Rudy & Paco’s—reservations are a must.

Coastal artists abound and the street simply known now as Postoffice is full of galleries showcasing enough nautical art to adorn your vessel’s staterooms. Keep an eye peeled for the work of Gay Paratore, Robert Peterson and Gayle Reynolds. Postoffice is also home to many pubs and coffee shops and only a few blocks from the historic home tours on Broadway where massive stone mansions rise—Bishop’s Palace built in 1892 and the 1895 Moody Mansion are majestic.

Galveston—like much of the Gulf Coast—has been subject to the ravages of hurricanes throughout her history. In 1900, a massive storm struck the island and drowned over 6,000 residents. It is important to remember while walking the historic districts and neighborhoods of the island that after this storm, residents banded together and embarked on one of the most unheralded engineering feats in American history. Every surviving structure—from massive mansions to humble homes with picket fences and down to the lowliest barns—was raised up on stilts and piers to an average of eight feet high. Gargantuan amounts of dredge from Offatts Bayou to the southwest were then painstakingly pumped in to raise the grade of 500 city blocks. Streets, sidewalks and utilities were then rebuilt as well as a massive beachfront seawall, which again has become the playground of Texas. Today, the bustling seawall is filled with fishing piers, restaurants and 32 miles of beaches quietly rolling with surf from the Gulf of Mexico. Stroll the giant old-school Pleasure Pier, with her amusement rides and restaurants jutting straight out over the Gulf. Relax and fish off the piers before taking in dinner at the classic coastal seafood restaurant and cherished dining tradition, Gaido’s, which has run continuously since 1911—do not miss the charbroiled oysters brought in fresh from nearby Port Aransas.

Nearly all of the beaches in Galveston are open to the public with the most scenic being East and Stewart Beaches. Pack an ice chest and enjoy the warm Gulf waters, where a nice building wind from the east will even allow surfing. Keep your eyes peeled for Texans with their trucks and Jeeps, for nearly all of Texas allows vehicular traffic on the beaches.

Galveston is filled with museums and amusements for children. With the connection to the oil industry, a giant Drilling Rig Museum sits in the harbor, and the Railroad Museum resides on the Strand. Harbor tours run from the Seaport, and there are public golf and putt-putt courses as well as a multitude of water parks, state parks and hiking trails.

For an exciting and romantic evening boat over to Offatts Bayou and tie up at the Pelican Rest Marina. This private facility is angling to become its own mini-resort with a pool and adjacent tiki bars. The upscale steakhouse of Number 13 overlooks the grounds with ship’s captains cruising from pier party to pier party on giant tricycles. From the decks, the massive lighted pyramids of Moody Gardens and the Colonel Paddlewheeler across the bayou reflect on the waters while Jimmy Buffett cover bands work their magic.

Immediately next door to the Pelican Rest Marina is the multi-million dollar construction for the future home of the Sea Scouts in Texas. With private funding this facility and marina is set to become a world-class maritime school and camp for the Sea Scouts and will be an important educational facility for training the next generation of cruisers and sailors on the Gulf Coast.

Within a few hours’ sail north of Galveston lies the famous Kemah Boardwalk. With ample transient slips available, this giant amusement park and retail/dining establishment is filled with energy and hosts concerts and shore-side entertainment. Kemah and the areas nearby are filled with facilities for cruisers.

Galveston is home to residents who can trace their island roots back to when pirate Jean Lafitte roamed these shores. Filled with islanders enjoying their southern gardens, charter captains swapping fish tales at their favorite watering holes, and artists setting up easels to capture the sunsets, Galveston is one of those rare spots on the Texas coast that feels more in tune with the rhythms of the Gulf Coast than the bustling cities and sprawling ranches of the interior. The island and her residents are ready and waiting for you to tie up, walk her palm and oak-lined streets, and dig your feet into Texas sand.

By Troy Gilbert, Southern Boating March 2014