The Bonadeo 37 Walkaround (LOA 37′, beam 9’10”) is built of composite, resin-infused Kevlar carbon fiber. Built as a collaboration between Bonadeo Boat Works and a client from Long Beach, Calif., the boat is rich in woodwork with teak decks, coamings and high-gloss Imron-coated teak toe rail and helm pod.
The air-conditioned cabin offers 6’5″ of headroom and includes a queen berth, galley, and head. Forward of the helm is a large sunpad with an aft facing teak seat for two that includes a built-in cooler and livewell.
The helm seat hosts four custom tackle stations with an abundant amount of storage. The
cockpit features two oversized fish/storage deck boxes, and the transom has a built-in
50-gallon livewell. Powered by triple Mercury Verado 350-hp engines, this boat hits a top
end of 55 and cruises in the mid 40-mph range.
The EVO 43 (43’1″ LOA, 20’7″ beam) is the first model from the EVO brand and built by Blu Emme Yachts. Twin Volvo Penta IPS 600 engines offer a top speed of 38 knots, 30-knot cruise and range of 300 nm. The boat features a straight bow and high topsides that flow harmoniously toward the stern.
The cockpit, like the rest of the Evo 43, is entirely covered in teak and features an area that can be easily arranged through modular cube-shaped seats. The stern features the “XTension” bulwarks that open to increase usable space by 40 percent. Belowdecks accommodation is air-conditioned and features a double cabin to port, with its own entrance door, stowage area and wardrobe. The starboard head features a full-height shower and sink, and forward is a V-shaped dinette with a foldaway table that converts to another comfortable double bed.
Meet the all-new fishing and diving version of the Aquila 36 (36′ LOA, 14′ 7″ beam), a sport catamaran powered by twin Mercury Verado outboards up to 350 hp. While still offering the conveniences of a large yacht including two comfortable cabins with private ensuite heads, she integrates key fishing and diving features.
Fishing enthusiasts will appreciate the spacious livewell, generous storage with knife and tool holders, fishing rod holders, and large fish box, all thoughtfully placed. Dive tanks easily store away in the aft and easy access to the water is provided with an integrated dive ladder. Additional options include a second BBQ, more refrigerated space, and extra storage.
Powered by twin 250-hp engines, the Aquila 36 has a top speed of 27 knots, and cruises at 21 knots with a 282-nm range.
See the MJM 35z in Miami and you’ll see the yacht offers a delicate balance of comfortable, all-weather accommodations and excellent performance in a single vessel. Two factors explain the achievement: MJM’s unique epoxy composite construction for a stronger, lighter and longer-lasting hull, and a sea-kindly, Zurn-designed, modified deep-V design with a greater waterline length-to-beam ratio of 3.5 to 1 versus the typical 2.7 or 3 to 1 ratio.
This further explains her delicate appetite using fuel; this 35-footer gets 1.2 mpg with
twin Mercury Verado 300-hp engines pushing her to 35 mph. Another plus includes comfort at speeds approaching the boat’s 50 mph top end. The 35z hull shape gains stability the faster it goes as lifting strakes and chine flats redirect wave and wake energy into effective stabilizing forces.
Sunseeker debuts three yachts: the 76 Yacht (77’5″ LOA, 19’6″ beam), the Manhattan 66 (68’3″ LOA, 17’3″ beam) and the Predator 57 MK II (59’10” LOA, 15’5″ beam). The 76 Yacht’s innovative use of glass enhances natural light, making this a bright and airy boat in which to relax and unwind with family and friends.
Power via shaft drive is aplenty with two MAN V12 engine options providing speeds of up to 32 knots. The Manhattan 66 offers either twin fixed-pitch propellers or IPS drives providing speeds of up to 32 knots and a range of 500 nm. The flybridge creates the feeling of a much larger craft and has been designed with extensive seating throughout, large forward sunbathing areas and a well-equipped wet bar.
The Predator 57 MK II’s exterior boasts sleek yet oversized pillarless windows down to the side deck, which floods the interior with light and provides uninterrupted views from the salon.
The Ocean5 Naval Architects 27′ Stuart Boatworks Technology Demonstrator (26’10” LOA, 8’8″ beam) showcases the latest technology in a top-flight center console. The technology aboard the boat includes virtual anchor via Seastar Optimus 360 Joystick steering, and GPS station keeping and roll-stabilization with a Seakeeper SK3 Gyro.
Other features include a Lenco Auto Glide system and dual 400W solar array with C-Zone networked 17-inch Garmin chart plotter. Twin 200-hp Mercury outboards power the hull to a top speed of 48 mph, with a 37-mph cruising speed and a range of 300 miles.
The Palm Beach 45 (49′ LOA, 14’8″ beam) offers a contemporary design and high-tech construction to provide a versatile yachting experience suited for cruising and family-focused outings. Twin 435-hp Volvo Penta IPS 600s provide control and performance, whether running an inlet in a down-sea swell or slicing through a chop.
High-tech construction uses resin-infused carbon fiber in the deck and superstructure and vinylester resins and a cross-link, closed-cell foam core for durability in the hull. The result is a stronger, lighter yacht with a top speed of 32 knots and a cruising speed of 26 knots. Inside, the craftsmanship and attention to detail are shown in several interior layout options that allow the owners to create the ideal family cruising yacht.
Part center console, part overnight cruiser, part walkaround, the new Azimut Verve 40 blends a vibrant on-deck layout and a luxurious Italian interior that’s perfect for enjoying the alfresco lifestyle.
I’ve seen thousands of boats at hundreds of boat shows, but once in a while, I spot a show-stopping new design with exterior lines and subtle details that simply demands further inspection. At the Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show last November, that boat was the Azimut Verve 40, a combination of walkaround, center console, and overnight cruiser, and I wasn’t the only one who succumbed to its magnetic appeal.
The Verve 40’s numerous details spell out a design well suited for offshore operation. The bow above the waterline is full and slightly hollow, indicating good usable volume inside and reserve buoyancy in big waves. Nearer the waterline, the convex stem sharpens and shows an extension of the full-length chine for a dry ride while providing some lift and roll stability in turns. Federico Ferrante, president of Azimut Benetti USA, says the company’s newest offering “performs and handles like a radical fishing boat from the rubrail down, but it looks and feels like an Azimut Yacht from the rubrail up!”
Significant bulwarks enclose the foredeck, with a wide slot between the bulwark and deck forward that hides cleats and rollers for dock lines. Two contemporary mooring cleats are mounted on a raised section of deck as well as ground tackle and a windlass for the anchor (that projects through a port on the stern), which are hidden below the foredeck hatches.
The bulwarks increase in height going aft and are flanked by large diameter, stainless steel handrails on both sides for approximately half the length of the boat. At that point, there’s one step down to the cockpit level where more well-placed grab rails await. This yacht is carefully thought out for safe fore-and-aft movement of crew or guests and equipped with beautifully laid narrow teak decking on all weather decks—even on the deck surfaces flanking the three outboard engines.
For sun worshippers, the foredeck offers a choice of either twin sunpads with adjustable lounge backs or a two-bench seating area for four with storage under both. The well-raked, sculpted deckhouse and full-height windshield flow into a hardtop that covers the helm amidships and most of the aft cockpit deck.
Three large, ergonomic and incredibly comfortable leather-upholstered helm chairs with flip-up bolsters front the console, all electrically fore-and-aft adjustable. An angled foot-relief step is molded into the console below for the center and starboard seats, and the leather-clad sport steering wheel is operated from the center seat. For maneuvering, the bow thruster control is located to the left of the wheel, while the twin-lever Digital Throttle & Shift (DTS) binnacle and Axius Joystick, which can be equipped with Mercury’s trademark Skyhook position holding system, are located to the right.
Directly above the binnacle, the Mercury VesselView display is flanked by two large Raymarine Multi-Function Displays (MFD). It’s a nice setup since one screen is directly ahead of the steering wheel; the helmsman can quickly glance down and get a visual update while maintaining a proper view of the waters ahead. Visibility is outstanding from the helm seat, partly because it sits on a slightly raised section of cockpit deck but also due to the large molded locker on which the three seats are mounted. Azimut’s designers included an overhead hatch for added ventilation at the helm, and they placed all LED lights in the molded hardtop for proper nighttime illumination with a dedicated light for night running.
The cockpit is equipped with an aft-facing bench seat, a large L-shaped bench seat and a beautifully finished table. Just ahead of the aft-facing seat, a hatch opens for access to an optional Seakeeper stabilizing system and generator. Interestingly, this seat is mounted on Harken slider rails, and it can be repositioned to form a C-shaped dinette around the table. With a flip of a switch, the table lowers to form a second sunpad that’s well protected from the wind when at anchor. And to help minimize sun exposure to the entire cockpit, an electrically operated SureShade ATF canvas Bimini extends from inside the hardtop for additional comfort.
Two small molded lockers with fold-down tops, one to each side of the seating area, contain a wet bar with an icemaker and optional wine cooler (to port), while an outdoor grill is to starboard with a refrigerator. Both consoles are positioned and sized to help keep traffic flowing freely along both sides. Additional storage in the cockpit is found beneath the L-shaped settee, inside the aft-facing bench and under the seat-bearing locker. There is also an insole drained locker along the port side for storing wet lines and fenders.
A clever, unexpected feature is the fold-down section of the portside cockpit gunwale and hull section that forms a boarding or swimming platform. It is also fitted with a bracket for a T-shaped sport and diving ladder. A two-position platform door opens to allow access to the swim platforms and cross-transom connecting deck of the outboard engine mounting bracket. A handy stainless steel grab rail across the transom adds safety when the time comes to inspect what’s under the hood of the triple 350-hp Mercury Verado four-cycle outboards.
Each Verado is equipped with a cold air intake system that delivers fresh air to a water-cooled supercharger for increased efficiency and power. A specially designed oil cooler helps extend engine-operating life. The valve train is designed to be maintenance free for the life of the outboard. And its heavy-duty gear case features stronger components to handle the stresses of high-speed offshore running.
Just to port of the helm station, three steps descend into the salon. Custom wood in a matte finish, soft leather upholstery and polished stainless work together to solidify the clean, contemporary lines of the interior. The electrical switch panel is set to port next to the stairs behind a smoked glass door.
The compact galley is furnished with a solid surface countertop with a single under-counter brushed stainless steel sink next to an electrical cooktop. A microwave is inset under the cooktop, and there is storage both above and below that’s sufficient in volume to accommodate all the necessities for weekend meals.
The C-shaped dinette to starboard has a manually adjustable table that can be lowered to make a snug berth sized for two young children. Natural air and ventilation are provided by two opening portlights on either side of the salon. A sliding door aft provides access to a large wet head of sufficient size to accommodate adults comfortably. Another sliding door forward opens to reveal the single stateroom that’s notable for its beautiful woodwork, two hanging lockers and an island double berth with steps to make getting in and out of bed easier. Privacy blinds run the length of the cabin for a comfortable, private getaway.
The new Azimut Verve 40 is a beautifully finished, well-executed design from Italy’s largest boat builder. The overall styling is distinctly Italian, yet restrained. But the materials and craftsmanship are first rate, very much in keeping with a builder of fine yachts that range from 10 to 100 meters in length. If you’re in the market for an outboard-powered sport walkaround, don’t miss seeing this one.
By John Wooldridge, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017
A full-service boatel that houses approximately 400 boats is planned for 7.5 acres on the northwest quadrant of Kent Narrows, Maryland, according to meeting minutes of the Kent Narrows Development Foundation. The boatel’s website states that it will open next fall.
The indoor boat storage facility (boatel) will be 55 feet tall and include a restaurant. A ship’s store, concierge service and boat rentals are also planned components of the project. The site was previously approved for a 49-unit condo building. Thankfully, that has been nixed for a much-needed facility that should fill up quickly. The developers also intend to provide public access to the waterfront with a boardwalk or deck, which will fulfill a public amenities requirement. The haul-out and splash area will be on the north portion of the property.
The boatel will store outboard and inboard-powered boats with a LOA of up to 34 feet, a beam of up to 11 feet and a max height of 14 feet. Boat rentals are planned for Sea Hunt center consoles and Hurricane deck boats by the hour, day or weekend. The facility will be open from 7AM to 6PM in season. kentnarrowsmarine.com
Virtual rivers
If you’d like to see what a Chesapeake Bay tributary looks like before you actually take a boat there, you can do that now thanks to the Chesapeake Conservancy and Terrain360. The goal of their partnership is to bring virtual tours of the entire Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail to your computer or mobile device.
Richmond-based Terrain360 built and operates a boat equipped with six cameras mounted 10 feet above the water’s surface to capture high-resolution, 360-degree images every 50 feet. The images are then stitched together to create a digital image map of an entire river.
Virtual tours already completed include the Nanticoke River, the Susquehanna, the James, the Rappahannock, and the Patapsco (including Baltimore’s Inner Harbor). Tours of the Elk, Northeast and Sassafras are scheduled to be completed this year. Links to the tours are available when you scroll down on the home page of the conservancy’s website chesapeakeconservancy.org.
Pump it out
Recent accounts indicate the overall health of the Chesapeake is slowly improving thanks to collective efforts of individuals and organizations within the watershed. One such effort is coming from the Midshore Riverkeeper Conservancy, which teamed with government agencies to operate a pump-out boat on the Miles and Wye rivers this past year.
In May 2016, the conservancy, with funding from the Maryland Department of Natural Resources in conjunction with the Clean Vessel Act administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, began operating a 22-foot pump-out boat for the two mid-Chesapeake rivers. In its first season, which concluded in October, the boat pumped over 8,500 gallons of waste from almost 350 boats.
The pump-out boat is the first of its kind on Maryland’s eastern shore and enables cruisers to conveniently and properly dispose of waste rather than discharging harmful pollutants into waterways. The free service is much needed since there are no pump-out services on the Wye and few on the well-travelled Miles. The boat’s operators can be reached on VHF Channel 9 or by mobile phone at (410) 829-4352.
By Christopher Knauss, Southern Boating Magazine February 2017
The new Seakeeper 3 gyro system offers stability previously only available to boats 40 feet and up.
It still surprises me how many people suffer from seasickness in spite of all the medications that are available and technology developments that lessen the rock-and-roll at sea. Several years ago, I met a wealthy yacht owner whose wife was extremely prone to seasickness. To her credit, however, she wasn’t willing to give up on their dream to circumnavigate the globe. Her husband researched extensively and found a yacht that was designed to significantly reduce the rocking motion that causes seasickness. They then went to the North Sea to test a prototype in the most turbulent conditions possible. He found her calmly knitting a scarf during their sea trial, unaffected by the rough seas, and he ordered one built for their extensive cruising itinerary. Several years later they embarked on their circumnavigation together on their new yacht. Not everyone who suffers from seasickness, however, can afford to buy a custom yacht.
The Seakeeper 3 provides stabilization for boats from 30 to 39 feet.
Fortunately, owners of boats 40 feet or larger can retrofit their craft with aftermarket marine stabilization technology by Seakeeper, Inc., providing the boat’s design accommodates the unit. The company first introduced their gyro stabilizing systems in 2008 for boats larger than 40-feet LOA and commercial craft. Owners of boats smaller than 40 feet, however, have had no option other than to leave their seasick-prone family and friends at the dock. That recently changed.
At the 2016 Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show last November, Seakeeper revealed the release of its newest and smallest model yet: the Seakeeper 3 designed for boats sized 30 to 39 feet. According to the manufacturer, the Seakeeper 3 reduces up to 95 percent of the motion that contributes to the often-debilitating effects of seasickness, including angst, nausea and weariness. The Seakeeper 3 is also 30 percent lighter and 25 percent smaller than their other models; the new addition gives owners of smaller boats the option to add increased stabilization to their existing craft. Seakeeper offered sea trials during the boat show so that builders, boat owners and the media could experience the stabilizing effects of the Seakeeper 3 firsthand. “We had a customer with us that just commissioned a 34-foot center console build and was on the fence about adding the gyro,” said Joel Kauffman from Xcelerator Boatworks. “Well, before we even finished the sea trial we had definite plans for a Seakeeper gyro on our new build! The customer was in true disbelief at how effective the gyro was in very extreme situations. We were also very impressed with its physical size for ease of installation, low noise level, and operation smoothness. We now have plans for gyros in our next three builds: a 64-foot convertible, 34-foot center console and a 40-foot walkaround. We are all very excited with what Seakeeper has brought to the table in recent years!”
Since many boats in the 30-39′ range do not already have a generator, adapting the product with that in mind was of paramount importance. The Seakeeper 3 runs exclusively on 12-volt DC power, so the refit process is simple and does not require additional power systems or complicated modifications. Installation involves a customized leaning post design and can be completed in only two days. Andrew Semprevivo, Seakeeper Vice President of Sales and Marketing said in a press release that the Seakeeper 3 offers their technology to smaller vessels, which is the next step in the company’s goal to bring stabilization to the boating mainstream. “By offering an optimized solution for boats between 30- and 39-feet long, Seakeeper is offering stabilization solutions to a whole new range of boats for the first time. It truly is our biggest, smallest thing yet.”
The Seakeeper 3 can be ordered now for shipments starting in Spring 2017. MSRP is $26,900.
— By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating Magazine January 2017
The Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show is always an incredible time. You’ll find everything there–superyachts to tenders; electronics to décor; fuel injectors to galley supplies; FLIBS is a completely different experience than any other show.
Photos cannot always do the event justice. But we’ll do our best to try. Here’s the Best of FLIBS. Enjoy!
First Stop: Formula One
The stern of this boat boasts ample space on the swim platform for water activities.
Crisscross, oh my gosh
This Sportfish trio stays tight to the dock with crisscrossed lines.
Megayachts, Mega Swim Platforms
Here’s a neat trick: push a button, get an enormous swim platform.
I spy with my little eye…
This section of boats explains why Fort Lauderdale is the Yachting Capital of the World.
Tender Storage
It’s just my boat’s boat.
Boat Shows: not just for boats
Lions, Jaguars, Lamborghinis, oh my!
More is More
If the yachts weren’t enough for you.
Another day, another $256,445.
This Bentley Bentayga is a pricey beauty.
SB&Y interviews Pershing
Southern Boating’s writer Doug Thompson conducts an interview.
It’s a Luau Party
Some boats really get into the festivities!
Big and Beautiful
Stunning from all angles.
Members of the media enjoy the show
Members of the media walk the docks and see the sites.
Home gyms, I mean… yacht gyms
I guess there’s no excuse for not working out on board.
It’s On My Radar
You’re coming in loud and clear.
Exhibitors Walk the Show
Exhibitors get a much needed break with some frozen lemonade.
An Engineering Marvel
Miles of additional floating docks make this many boats possible.
The Super-est of Superyachts
At 273 feet, the M/Y Savannah was the largest at the show.
More is More
This center console boasts FIVE, yes FIVE, outboards.
Coming in for a Landing
Panorama
Boats, beaches, city, and sky: The Fort Lauderdale International Boat Show.
Here at Southern Boating, weappreciate witty sentences worthy of repeating. The following is a list of our best boat quotes about boating, sailing, and the sea selected for your contemplation and amusement. You may recognize several from plaques, posters or pillows, even aboard your own boat!
Got one we missed? Send us your favorites boat quotes– just send an email with your name and favorite quote to southernexposure@southernboating.com. You could be featured on southernboating.com next week!
So without further ado…the best boat quotes:
“I want a boat that drinks six, eats four, and sleeps two.” – Ernest K. Gann, author of The Aviator
There is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.
– Kenneth Grahame, 1859–1932, Scottish author
Boats, like whiskey, are all good.
– R. D. Culler, author of Boats, Oars and Rowing
At sea, I learned how little a person needs, not how much.
– Robin Lee Graham, began a five-year solo circumnavigation as a teenager in 1965 on a 42-foot sloop
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
– Mark Twain, 1835–1910, the pen name for Samuel Langhorne Clemens
The ocean has always been a salve to my soul…the best thing for a cut or abrasion was to go swimming in salt water. Later down the road of life, I made the discovery that salt water was also good for the mental abrasions one inevitably acquires on land.
– Jimmy Buffett, musician, and songwriter
The sea is the same as it has been since before men ever went on it in boats.
– Ernest Hemingway, 1899–1961, novelist
The lovely thing about cruising is that planning usually turns out to be of little use.
– Dom Degnon, writer
There is nothing like lying flat on your back on the deck, alone except for the helmsman aft at the wheel, silence except for the lapping of the sea against the side of the ship. At that time you can be equal to Ulysses and brother to him.
– Errol Flynn, 1909–1959, actor
Land was created to provide a place for boats to visit.
– Brooks Atkinson, 1894–1984, New York Times drama critic
It isn’t that life ashore is distasteful to me. But life at sea is better.
– Sir Francis Drake, 1540–1596, English admiral and circumnavigator
It’s out there at sea that you are really yourself.
It’s out there at sea that you are really yourself.
-Vito Dumas, 1900–1965, Argentine sailor
If you can’t repair it, maybe it shouldn’t be on board.
-Lin and Larry Pardey, sailors and writers
The sea finds out everything you did wrong.
-Francis Stokes, screenwriter and film director
The 19 ACE Convertible from Action Craft is the boat anglers can use to fish for largemouth one day and pole the flats for bonefish the next. Bass seats can be removed in very little time for a sturdy, full size, folding poling platform to be mounted. The 19 footer is built to catch fish. The large fore and aft decks and generous 13″ gunnels provide room for serious action. Storage abounds, including room for oversized equipment and fly rods, a built-in cooler compartment and an anchor locker, all with air strut lids. It comes with two LED-lighted and plumbed livewells, and a large insulated fish box for a total of 85 gallons. An 8′ Pro Series Power-Pole, 6″ jack plate, console metal rod holders and poling platform rocket launchers are all standard. When it’s time to put in some serious miles, the 19 ACE has a wide bench seat that offers room for three. With full-width storage beneath, it folds down to fit flush with the deck for increased fishing space. All hardware and fittings are stainless steel, while surfaces are covered in SeaDek.
Action Craft 19 ACE has a pole fishing boat.
Specifications: LOA: 18′ 11″
Beam: 7′ 6″
Draft: 9 to 11″
Fuel: 45 U.S. gals.
Engines: 150 hp
Top Speed: 63 miles
MSRP: $55,300
Contact: Action Craft Boats
830 NE 24th Lane, Unit C
Cape Coral, FL 33909
(239) 574-7800 actioncraft.com
PulseTech Products’ SP-5 compact solar panel provides clean, renewable energy for boats and vehicles when they’re unable to plug into a conventional power source. Half the size of comparable solar chargers with multiple installation options—including an ability to maintain up to 4 12V batteries connected in parallel—the SP-5 replaces the power loss from electrical accessories that occurs even when the ignition is turned off, and its patented Pulse Technology removes damaging sulfate crystals from the battery plates. Its small size enables easy installation on even the smallest surface of your boat that’s exposed to the sun. MSRP $159.95; pulsetech.net
Cruise one of America’s Best Small Towns and feel your blood pressure fall.
A quintessential New England small town on the banks of the tree-lined Connecticut River, Essex is a mix of white-picket-fence charm and colonial history, all with a heavy nautical overlay. Six miles up the river from Long Island Sound, Essex offers some protected and picturesque coves, an inviting Main Street, and a boating-centric culture that makes visiting cruisers feel more than welcome. Indeed, Essex today has more transient moorings for boats than it does parking spaces for cars. And if Essex itself isn’t enough of an attraction—even though it’s on almost everybody’s list of Best American Small Towns—then head up the river another mile and drop the hook in Hamburg Cove, one of the most protected and alluring gunkholes on the East Coast, if not the entire U.S.
Like many other great cruising destinations in the Northeast, Essex is easy to get to. On Long Island Sound, about six miles east of Duck Island Roads off Westbrook you’ll see the Saybrook Breakwater Light. It’s 58 feet high and on the end of a 1,000-foot-long breakwater. The wide channel between it and the matching breakwater to the east leads north up the Connecticut River to Essex, and then another 40 miles or so to Hartford, the state capital.
After the breakwater you’ll pass two large, full-service marinas off to port—Saybrook Point Marina and Harbor One Marina—and in two miles you’ll reach the Amtrak train tracks on the Old Lyme Drawbridge, with a vertical clearance of 19 feet. Contact the tender on Channel 13. Just north of the drawbridge is the I-95 car bridge, but it has an 81-foot vertical clearance.
This part of the river is rich in history. The Algonquin Indians fished and farmed here until 1590, when the more warlike Pequots from the north drove them out. The first
European recorded to have landed here was Adriaen Block in 1614 after he had explored Block Island farther east. Over the years, the small village of Essex grew and prospered because of its protected location with access to both Long Island Sound and to the increasingly productive Connecticut heartland. Essex also became a major shipbuilding center; by the time the Revolution ended Essex had launched some 600 vessels for the patriots.
But it was the War of 1812 that put Essex in the history books, largely as a result of one of the British Navy’s most successful raids of all time. During the war, Essex shipbuilders were busy producing privateers that attacked British ships in the Caribbean and western Atlantic. The British sent some warships to attack the town, but they couldn’t get past the sandbar off Old Saybrook. So on the night of April 7, 1814, 137 British marines rowed the 6 miles up the river on 6 well-armed boats, arriving off Essex at 3AM. The British captain in charge told the villagers that if they did not fire on his men he would not harm them, but he did intend to destroy all the privateers. Within a few hours, the British had burned 27 ships before rowing back down the river. For the past 46 years, Essex has honored this event with an annual Burning of the Ships Parade, complete with period uniforms and a fife and drum corps.
Today, Essex (population 6,600) is a bastion of peace and tranquility. As you approach up the river, you’ll first pass the Essex Yacht Club and the Brewer Dauntless Marina on your port side, just north of marker R-26 in the middle of the Essex mooring field. Brewer has two first-class, full-service marinas in Essex. The first—Brewer Dauntless Marina—has 42 slips, a 150-foot fixed dock and 55 moorings with launch service. On your boat you’ll next pass the large Essex Island Marina—also a full-service facility—with 125 slips, a swimming pool and grills in a picnic area. Marley’s is a seasonal casual restaurant with carryout, plus breakfast and lunch all week and dinner on weekends. I’ve stayed at Essex Island Marina many times over the years, and when my children were younger they particularly enjoyed the 30-second ferry ride over the 20-yard passage to the mainland. Still heading north, the final marina is Brewer’s second facility in Essex—the Brewer Dauntless Shipyard—with 108 slips for boats from 20 to 100 feet, plus a swimming pool and all the usual first-class amenities. The Shipyard, as the name implies, is a major repair and maintenance operation.
Main Street is less than a five-minute walk from any of the marinas. You can’t go to Essex without at least stopping at the iconic Griswold Inn, which has been there since 1776. “The Gris” not only has a great taproom—rated as one of the best bars in America by Esquire—and restaurant, but it also has a major collection of marine art, with prints by Currier & Ives and Endicott & Co., and illustrations by Norman Rockwell.
For more casual dining, head up Main Street to the Black Seal Seafood Grille, one of my favorites, with a great bar (probably never mentioned by Esquire) and order a Dark and Stormy, a house specialty. The Black Seal also has memorable burgers, chili, and fish & chips, surrounded by fun nautical décor. If you want to pick up some delicious sandwiches or box lunches for the boat, go back down Main Street to Olive Oyl’s Carry Out Cuisine, a perfect spot for fast provisioning. In a white house almost next door, the Essex Coffee and Tea Company is the Essex version of a coffeehouse, with monthly displays by local artists. And if you want a casual breakfast, lunch or dinner with a waterfront view head back to Abbey’s Place just behind the Brewer Dauntless Shipyard.
When you’re through eating, walk down to the foot of Main Street to the Connecticut River Museum. You’ll find one of the best views of the river, great exhibits on shipbuilding and local geology, plus a full-size replica of the Turtle, the first American submarine, built by David Bushnell of nearby Westbrook in 1776.
For evening entertainment check out the Ivoryton Playhouse, a ten-minute cab ride away. Katharine Hepburn started there in 1931; it has also starred Eva Gabor and Marlon Brando. If you have more time, try the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat, which starts at the 1892 Essex train station and heads along the shoreline to Deep River Landing, where you climb aboard the Becky Thatcher, a three-deck Mississippi River-style riverboat for a ride farther up the river.
Before you leave the Essex area, cruise just a mile upriver to Hamburg Cove, with a narrow entrance east of Brockway Island. Drop the hook and feel your blood pressure fall; this is one of the prettiest and best-protected boating spots around. If you want to explore, you can follow the green markers to the end of the cove and find Reynolds Garage & Marine, a small freshwater marina. Mind the channel. I’ve bounced off the bottom there in my Grand Banks 36 several times, but I wouldn’t miss Hamburg Cove for the world.
