There’s special anticipation that accompanies the first few boating trips each spring. After all, who knows what the winter has brought in terms of unexpected shoaling, shifting channels, missing buoys, ruptured bulkheads, and the like. The combination of heavy ice flows, stiff winds and high tides can do some strange things, especially in shallow, inshore waters.
Once you’ve carefully scoped out your home grounds and noted any obvious spring shoaling, dock damage or other gifts from Old Man Winter for which you’ll need to make notations on your charts, it’s time to dig a little deeper and investigate any man-made changes since the end of last season. The good thing is that some of these are repairable and not problems.
Massachusetts
In fact, one of the nicest things about early season boating is discovering improvements. Those are brought about by dredging, marina upgrades, spring shoaling, and increased accessibility. The Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation (DCR), for example, is installing an additional 118 transient moorings for boats up to 40 feet LOA at various locations within the Boston Harbor Islands National & State Park, including Spectacle Island, Georges Island and Peddocks Island. The project is expected for completion by the start of summer.
Once installed, reservations for day and overnight use will be available online for a fee. Designated temporary pickup and drop-off areas on the Spectacle, Georges and Peddocks piers will also be available to boaters. The additional moorings will allow boaters to easily explore the natural, cultural and historical resources of the area. The park, located just minutes away from the City of Boston by boat, comprises 34 islands and peninsulas. At least six of the islands are publicly accessible and offer activities such as swimming, hiking, camping, and fishing. The park also includes six listings on the National Register of Historic Places, three of which are also National Historic Landmarks. bostonharborislands.org
Long Island
Those who challenge the rough and tumble waters of Moriches Inlet on Long Island’s south shore will be happy to know that the Army Corps of Engineers addressed the
shoaling over the winter, removing approximately 120,000 cubic yards of sand to create a 200-foot-wide, 10-foot deep passage through the inlet. Four severe winter storms during the harsh winter of 2017 had created a build-up of over 300,000 cubic yards of sand, clogging the inlet, which nourishes Moriches Bay with refreshing ocean water while
offering boaters and anglers an outlet to the open sea.
Conditions continued to deteriorate through last fall until the project got underway in October. The inlet seems considerably tamer now, but caution is always advised while
traversing this cut.
Long Island, New York, Congressman Lee Zeldin, who was instrumental in procuring the funds to get the inlet dredged, also managed to procure more than $3 million to dredge
the ICW in Moriches Bay to a uniform depth of six feet in a nearly three-mile stretch just inside the inlet. Work was completed in late February, so boating prospects are really
looking up on this shallow bay.
Your Backyard
Not all marine improvements come with a big splash. Look around your own boating waters with a little focus, and you’ll find plenty of habitat restoration projects. Seeding
clams and oysters that help filter and clean our waters, for one. You may spot dune replenishment projects designed to rebuild and protect exposed beaches from serious erosion. Both bring more birds, fish and marine creatures within sight. They all add up to a better boating experience in the long run, so help out, keep an eye open and don’t overlook the small stuff.
Northeast boaters looking to get an early start to the 2019 boating season would do best to back off the throttle coming out of the gate. Going back a few decades, a March kick-off was commonplace for skippers sailing anywhere between New Jersey and Rhode Island. That first launch time frame was often scheduled to coincide with a solid run of tasty winter flounder or open water for clamming, the latter a welcome job for part-time baymen.
As early spring fishing fortunes and shellfish populations have faded in recent years, most northeast boaters have pushed back initial forays into April or even May, especially those
who have second homes near the coast or enjoy cruising and water sports more than wetting a line. That makes it even more important than ever for early launchers to be on their toes because there are fewer eyes on the water during the early season.
Now, where did that shoal come from?
Safety Reigns
Naturally, you’ll want to start that first trip on the water with a standard pre-launch checklist to make sure there are no mechanical issues before leaving the dock or ramp. Ensure you have a full set of life preservers aboard that are Coast Guard approved, properly fit your crew and are in good working condition. It also makes sense to file a boating float plan with a responsible family member or friend. If you plan to cross any big or rough water, you might want to consider wearing a survival suit because northeast water temperatures can remain fatally cold well into May.
“Be sure that you’ve replaced your fuel filters, checked that water pumps are working properly and have fully charged all batteries because those are three things that can fail quickly after being out in the cold all winter,” says Capt. Tony DiLernia, a Manhattan, New York, charter skipper. He also notes that buoys, or lack thereof, can be a problem on some waters. “On the eastern end of Long Island, for example, some buoys that are removed for the winter months might not be returned until late April,” says the experienced skipper. “You’d better know your course ahead of time to stay in the channel and avoid possible groundings.”
Where did that channel marker go?
Capt. Ramsey Chason, a Massachusetts Sea Tow skipper whose coverage area includes Cape Cod and The Islands, notes that the further north you head up the coast, the more likely it is that markers will be lifted. “That’s because winter ice floes can grab and drag them a considerable distance,” he says. What’s more, points out Chason, is that rough seas and winter storms often shift sand, so even if a buoy is in the correct location, it’s possible the channel may have moved.
“We see this happen frequently in areas that get a lot of winter storms, like Chatham, Massachusetts,” explains Chason. “The channel there definitely moves a lot during the winter months.
The same goes for Stage Harbor where a small channel skirts Morris Island. Some years it’s wider in the spring; other years it’s completely closed off. In general, if things don’t look right, they probably aren’t, so keep an eye on your depth recorder and trust your instincts as to appearances above the water.”
Hazard Watch
Watch out!
You’ll also need to watch out for floating debris, especially loose pilings, logs, pieces of dock, or other substantial objects that may have been in the water for a prolonged period of time. Many of these potential widow-makers will be partially submerged, difficult to spot at high speeds and nearly unavoidable unless noticed well in advance.
“You are especially likely to cross paths with larger debris during full and new moon tides when more water and strong currents can dislodge such items from their resting places,”
cautions DiLernia.
Should you find any serious hazards, or inconsistencies with aids to navigation, report them immediately to the Coast Guard. They’ll issue a safety alert and see that the matter is appropriately addressed.
Cold weather brings spectacular birding in the Northeast
With the holiday season well underway, most northeastern boaters have already pulled their vessels for the winter. While it’s the late season routine, many still yearn to go down and reconnect with the sea, even after a couple of weeks in dry dock.
One way to stay in touch with the marine world at this time of year is to cut in a little birding action. For this, migrating seabirds make a perfect starting point. “December really is a great time for bird watching along the shore,” says Ted Gilman, education specialist and senior naturalist for the National Audubon Society’s center in Greenwich, Connecticut. “There are many species of birds using the Atlantic Flyway right now, migrating from colder northern areas to warmer climates down south. It makes for some terrific viewing, and you can generally see something interesting anywhere you find shoreline access, maybe even at your favorite marina.”
The waters of Long Island Sound, for example, play host to northern gannets this time of year. This is a large bird with snow-white plumage, black-tipped wings and a six-foot span that generally spends its time offshore. Throughout December, however, you can spot them diving on remaining schools of baitfish. “They shift their wings behind their bodies and slice into the water like an arrowhead to get down deep and catch their prey,” says Gilman. “They really are spectacular.”
A common loon.
The common loon is another winter visitor to northeast waters. With a black and white checkered back and a rather chunky appearance, it’s easy to pick out from sea ducks and geese. A slimmer cousin, the red-throated loon, can also be seen during the holiday season. Don’t, however, expect to hear the lonesome call for which both loons are famous. That happens during spring mating season.
Another large bird that frequents the northeast coast during winter is the bald eagle. Nearly lost to extinction because of the insecticide DDT, which causes eggshells to thin and unable to support the weight of the incubating bird, populations are rebounding nicely. Drawn to the coast in search of open water and fish or ducks to eat, you can distinguish adults from other birds of prey by their immense size, white heads, and white tails.
“Identifying birds is easier than ever these days,” says Gilman. “There are many good books on the subject and even some great apps, including the free Audubon Bird Guide”.
Of course, this being winter, you’ll want to dress warmly, and wear gloves, boots and a hat. Make your visits to the sea on calm days and bring a pair of binoculars for a better look as it’s tough to get close to birds on the water.
A guided birding tour is a great way to start out, advises Gilman. Many parks, Audubon Society chapters and birding groups offer these. If you live in Connecticut, Gilman recommends a visit to Hammonasset Beach State Park that’s right on Long Island Sound and perfectly situated along the flyway. “You’ll smell the sea breeze and see something interesting there every time,” he says. “Another great place is Montauk Point, New York. The gathering of seabirds and ducks there is incredible.”
Gilman also recommends those new to the game to go along with a bird watching group if at all possible. “Doing so will probably give you access to a spotting scope, and that will give you the best look. It will also put you with experienced birders that can help identify the various species and point out a few you might otherwise miss.”
There are quite a few northeast boat parades this winter.
Most encourage participants to deck out their vessels with lights, decorations, and adornments that add to the jovial spirit, and may also include a visit from jolly old St. Nick. Check out these northeast boat parades.
New York
In New York, Long Island’s South Shore boating families will enjoy the 25th Annual Christmas Holiday Parade of Boats on Sunday, November 18th. More than two dozen decorated boats ease down the Patchogue River competing for a variety of titles, including Best Overall Decorations, Best in Theme, Best Lights, and People’s Choice. This year’s theme is “A Hollywood Christmas!” There’s a $35 fee to compete, but viewing is free on the water and from Sandspit Town Park or Fire Island National Seashore. Festivities shove off from Off Key Tikki Bar and West Bank Marina at 6 PM. Santa brings up the stern end of the parade and visits both land-based viewing areas. patchogueboatparade.org
Long Island’s North Shore crews will surely want to check out the Huntington Lighthouse Parade of Lights on November 23rd. It’s a glow-in-the-dark maritime extravaganza drawing scores of boaters and thousands of landlubbers to the shores of Huntington Harbor to increase awareness about the ongoing preservation efforts at the lighthouse. The parade features several categories of prizes for those willing to ante up the $50 boat registration fee. Homes and businesses along the harbor also join in the decorating and merriment, and many host house or deck parties as part of the fundraiser. Start time is 6 PM in front of the Harbor Boating Club. huntingtonlighthouse.org
Rhode Island
Newport, Rhode Island’s 21st Annual Illuminated Holiday Harbor Lights Boat Parade sets sail from the Newport Yacht Club at 6:15 PM on Friday, November 23rd. Local shops, restaurants, and a holiday stroll will be open both before and after the parade with many offering special discounts. This year’s event features Caribbean Christmas and holiday tunes played on a steel pan by the group Panoramic View while over 20 boats vie for the Best Decorated award. Boaters can view the parade from anywhere within the harbor, and landlubbers can get a good look from numerous shore access points, including Bowen’s Wharf. christmasinnewport.org
A Connecticut tugboat takes on the boat parade game.
Connecticut
If you boat in the Nutmeg State, you’ll be privy to the Santa Arrives By Tugboat and Holiday Lighted Boat Parade on November 24th. Thousands gather at Mystic River Park to watch Santa arrive at 2PM on the John Paul, a 60-foot tugboat. There’s a Christmas tree lighting at 6PM, followed by decorated vessels sliding down the Mystic River at 6:20PM before returning to Mystic River Park. Boats are judged on creativity and team spirit, and prizes are offered in several categories, including Most Charismatic Crew, Innovative Vessel and Miss Mystic Vessel of Grandeur. Contest entry is free with proof of boat insurance. mysticchamber.org
A Maine lobster boat dons ye gay apparel.
Maine
Even Maine, where the weather after dark is already noticeably cooler than in southern New England, has a boat parade scheduled. The 33rd Booth Bay Harbor Lights Festival on December 1st sees Santa and Mrs. Claus arrive by sea along with a cast of characters including elves, moose, lobsters, and more. You’ll find horse-drawn carriage rides, a craft show, tree lighting, and caroling before the evening concludes with a lighted boat parade at 5PM that’s guaranteed to warm your crew on a chilly December evening. Entry in the parade competition is free, and all boats that sign up receive a $35 gas card toward expenses. boothbayharbor.com.
There’s urgency in the air for Northeast boaters come October. From Long Island and southern Connecticut to the rocky coast of Maine, the long, luxurious days of summer over. It’s evidenced by the fall foliage colors along most waterways.
While some may take new splashes of red, yellow and orange along tree-lined shores as an indication boating season is approaching its end, serious skippers realize there’s still plenty of time to get out and enjoy all that is enjoyable out on the water. In fact, it’s with those colors that you might want to start. The Northeast in October is nothing if not spectacular along corridors where autumnal displays reach their peak.
Northeast landlubbers frequently drive inland to witness breathtaking views of changing fall foliage in mountainous areas. Boaters can simply point their bows toward marvelous views closer to home. By early October, the trees and bushes aligning back-bay areas, river banks and lakes blossom in hues so rich you can practically taste them. From grand channels like the Hudson and Connecticut rivers to the Boston Harbor Islands and numerous small tidal creeks, opportunity to take in fall’s spectacular foliage is in full bloom.
Cruise it
Be sure to cruise slowly as you enjoy the show—to power past the changing scenery is to merely witness a blend of hues. Probe more closely and individualism abounds. Like snowflakes, each tree, each branch, each leaf is different. Some seem to burst forth with color like juice from a freshly bitten piece of fruit. Others turn more slowly, gracefully. Look carefully and you’ll view two primary color camps.
The reds include varieties such as sugar maple, red maple, sweet gum, red oak, scarlet oak, sumac, and sassafras. Among the yellows are beech, birch, hickory, eastern rosebud, and poplar. It all makes for a wonderful mix, and there is no better way to see it than from above deck.
My first trip to Montauk was not by boat. It was aboard what I called my “land yacht,” a 1965 Volkswagen Microbus I used as a part-time crash pad when I needed to put in some late- night studying for a college exam. I would park it near the campus, get a couple of slices of pizza and hit the books. It didn’t matter when I fell asleep, only that I woke up on time.
The Cat and I—yes, that was its name—were known to take off on a whim, and when one of my buddies suggested we hit the road for Montauk, it was merely to find our way east and keep going until we ran out of land. However, once the VW’s time had come—with well over 120,000 miles on it—it was, as Melville opined, high time to get to sea. My first charge was a 24-foot Owens cabin cruiser with a forward V-berth and an old hand pump-activated head—not much more. (As the years passed, I eventually worked my way up to a 93-foot gem, but that’s another story.) Each time I set out on a watery journey from my homeport in the Gerritsen Creek area of Brooklyn, New York, I ventured farther away until finally, I made it out to Montauk.
The town has a rich history. Its indigenous tribal people existed on the harvest of the fertile land as well as the seemingly inexhaustible supply of food from the forests and the sea. And it is this last notion, with that special tie to all things nautical, that has drawn cruisers and fishermen to these unique environs for generations. While many settings near and far adhere to the same mantra, Montauk has long been known as the Sportfishing Capital of the World and for good reason. With its location jutting out some 100 miles into the Atlantic Ocean, it is perfectly situated for the annual migration patterns of many of the most sought-after pelagic fish, including tuna, white and blue marlin, striped bass, bluefish, wahoo, the major variety of sharks, and others. Tournaments are plentiful and there is a daily buzz that can be felt from just before dawn to well after sunset.
The inshore and offshore action, even out to the legendary Canyons, always seems to be right on the money. From top-of-the-line sportfishing boats bristling with the latest electronics and impressive tourney accouterments—hydraulically operated outriggers, cockpits the size of your home living room, freezer compartments and ice-making machines, custom fighting chairs, and a seasoned crew—to center console models with quad outboard power hanging off the transom, to flounder pounding, fl uke drifting and porgy hooking outings on the family cruiser, everyone will be in the bite.
Ironically, it is from shore that elite fishermen ply their Zen-like approach to piscatorial adventures. “Trust me, with surf fishing, it is definitely not about the catching,” one veteran of “sudsing” the long rod once told me. I can confirm he was absolutely right. While I’ve plied the shoreline for years, with catches few and far between, I am very good with that. There is something really special about the time just before dawn, when the eastern horizon begins to glow, the surf line is a gentle hush with the living ocean heaving slightly and there’s just the hint of breeze coming off the calm water.
Then there is the moment at day’s end, when the last arc of the sun is about to disappear and, as the soft evening colors start to wrap things up, you glimpse a swirl of the white, combing, incoming waves.
There are plenty of options when it comes to choosing a guide.
Surf Fishing on the beach in Montauk, NY.
Surf fishing on Montauk is unparalleled, and if you have never participated in this sport, now is the time to make it happen. There is specialized gear, including rods and reels, all sorts of plugs, poppers, lures, feathers, and gadgets and gizmos—some homegrown by the locals—that have proven to be fish producers. But as my aforementioned wizened old salt also intoned, “Fish have tails.”
While many local surf casters are reticent to divulge their secret spots and techniques, I have met some who will gladly share. Then again, you can always get a guide. One of the most popular is Bill Wetzel, a licensed pro who will take you on a six-hour excursion in his beach buggy, all tackle included, and guarantees everything but the weather and the fish.
During some downtime from fishing, you might want to explore this area’s abundant history. With great all-around views, a visit to the Montauk Point Lighthouse is a must. Commissioned by President George Washington in 1792, it is the hands-down image of what the hamlet is all about. Wear comfortable sneakers to climb the 137 steps to the top.
The striper action along the beach is excellent. If you’re an early riser, grab a cup of coffee and a tasty banana nut muffin to go and catch the sunrise. Looking for a day at the beach? Did you bring your surfboard? Ditch Plains, Kirk Park and Navy beaches are the places to go. Let somebody else drive the boat and visit Block Island via the Viking Fleet. Or if you’re up for some horseback riding, check out the trails at the family-owned-and-run Deep Hollow Ranch. Founded in 1658, it’s billed as the oldest working cattle ranch in the country.
Dining also tops the list of things to do in during your stay. As one would expect, seafood reigns supreme. Gosman’s Dock, established in 1943, offers its famed restaurant, topside deck, inlet café, fish market, and clam bar. Reservations are required. The Gig Shack on Main Street is also a dine-out delight. With its extensive menu featuring fish tacos, ribs and lobster rolls, laid-back ambiance and live music, this watering hole guarantees a great night out. If you have a taste for pulled pork, BBQ and onion rings, saunter over to Rick’s Crabby Cowboy Café. The seafood is outstanding as well, and the kids will love roasting marshmallows over the outdoor fire pit for s’mores. Alternatively, opt for fine dining at the Muse at the End, which showcases a wide variety including steak, chicken, fish, salads, and other delicious surprises. Just thirsty? Ask your marina manager to recommend the best bars; there are plenty from which to choose.
The area offers an excess of first-class, full-service marinas. Check with any of the online marina guides for suggestions, but make your reservations well in advance. One of my all-time favorites is Gone Fishing Marina, a 180-slip facility that can accommodate boats up to 66 feet in length with a 6-foot draft. And Dave’s Gone Fishing restaurant, where every table offers a spectacular view of the surroundings, is a definite crowd-pleaser. If you have a large boat, consider mooring at the Montauk Yacht Club. With the ability to accommodate vessels up to 220 feet with a 12-foot draft, this 232-slip marina provides first-class resort amenities, including three restaurants, bonfires, surf and paddleboard lessons. The 170-slip Star Island Yacht Club is a full-service facility with a huge ships store, Travelift, on-site dining, heated swimming pool, and more. People come to enjoy the myriad of social events, such as fishing tournaments and cruising club rendezvous.
For those coming for the fishing, check in with your marina manager for all the seasonal regulations, throwback sizes, limits per species, permits, if any, and other important information you’ll need. If you prefer the experience of local knowledge to increase your fishing success, try your hand with Montauk Outfitter, licensed and insured experts in kayak as well as surf fishing. If your boat is not rigged out for fishing, there are many opportunities to private charter a boat for the day, evening or half-time angling.
I hope you enjoy your trip to Montauk as much as I have over my many years of visiting. It’s a fishing wonderland with plenty to discover.
Cruise one of America’s Best Small Towns and feel your blood pressure fall.
A quintessential New England small town on the banks of the tree-lined Connecticut River, Essex is a mix of white-picket-fence charm and colonial history, all with a heavy nautical overlay. Six miles up the river from Long Island Sound, Essex offers some protected and picturesque coves, an inviting Main Street, and a boating-centric culture that makes visiting cruisers feel more than welcome. Indeed, Essex today has more transient moorings for boats than it does parking spaces for cars. And if Essex itself isn’t enough of an attraction—even though it’s on almost everybody’s list of Best American Small Towns—then head up the river another mile and drop the hook in Hamburg Cove, one of the most protected and alluring gunkholes on the East Coast, if not the entire U.S.
Like many other great cruising destinations in the Northeast, Essex is easy to get to. On Long Island Sound, about six miles east of Duck Island Roads off Westbrook you’ll see the Saybrook Breakwater Light. It’s 58 feet high and on the end of a 1,000-foot-long breakwater. The wide channel between it and the matching breakwater to the east leads north up the Connecticut River to Essex, and then another 40 miles or so to Hartford, the state capital.
After the breakwater you’ll pass two large, full-service marinas off to port—Saybrook Point Marina and Harbor One Marina—and in two miles you’ll reach the Amtrak train tracks on the Old Lyme Drawbridge, with a vertical clearance of 19 feet. Contact the tender on Channel 13. Just north of the drawbridge is the I-95 car bridge, but it has an 81-foot vertical clearance.
This part of the river is rich in history. The Algonquin Indians fished and farmed here until 1590, when the more warlike Pequots from the north drove them out. The first
European recorded to have landed here was Adriaen Block in 1614 after he had explored Block Island farther east. Over the years, the small village of Essex grew and prospered because of its protected location with access to both Long Island Sound and to the increasingly productive Connecticut heartland. Essex also became a major shipbuilding center; by the time the Revolution ended Essex had launched some 600 vessels for the patriots.
But it was the War of 1812 that put Essex in the history books, largely as a result of one of the British Navy’s most successful raids of all time. During the war, Essex shipbuilders were busy producing privateers that attacked British ships in the Caribbean and western Atlantic. The British sent some warships to attack the town, but they couldn’t get past the sandbar off Old Saybrook. So on the night of April 7, 1814, 137 British marines rowed the 6 miles up the river on 6 well-armed boats, arriving off Essex at 3AM. The British captain in charge told the villagers that if they did not fire on his men he would not harm them, but he did intend to destroy all the privateers. Within a few hours, the British had burned 27 ships before rowing back down the river. For the past 46 years, Essex has honored this event with an annual Burning of the Ships Parade, complete with period uniforms and a fife and drum corps.
Today, Essex (population 6,600) is a bastion of peace and tranquility. As you approach up the river, you’ll first pass the Essex Yacht Club and the Brewer Dauntless Marina on your port side, just north of marker R-26 in the middle of the Essex mooring field. Brewer has two first-class, full-service marinas in Essex. The first—Brewer Dauntless Marina—has 42 slips, a 150-foot fixed dock and 55 moorings with launch service. On your boat you’ll next pass the large Essex Island Marina—also a full-service facility—with 125 slips, a swimming pool and grills in a picnic area. Marley’s is a seasonal casual restaurant with carryout, plus breakfast and lunch all week and dinner on weekends. I’ve stayed at Essex Island Marina many times over the years, and when my children were younger they particularly enjoyed the 30-second ferry ride over the 20-yard passage to the mainland. Still heading north, the final marina is Brewer’s second facility in Essex—the Brewer Dauntless Shipyard—with 108 slips for boats from 20 to 100 feet, plus a swimming pool and all the usual first-class amenities. The Shipyard, as the name implies, is a major repair and maintenance operation.
Main Street is less than a five-minute walk from any of the marinas. You can’t go to Essex without at least stopping at the iconic Griswold Inn, which has been there since 1776. “The Gris” not only has a great taproom—rated as one of the best bars in America by Esquire—and restaurant, but it also has a major collection of marine art, with prints by Currier & Ives and Endicott & Co., and illustrations by Norman Rockwell.
For more casual dining, head up Main Street to the Black Seal Seafood Grille, one of my favorites, with a great bar (probably never mentioned by Esquire) and order a Dark and Stormy, a house specialty. The Black Seal also has memorable burgers, chili, and fish & chips, surrounded by fun nautical décor. If you want to pick up some delicious sandwiches or box lunches for the boat, go back down Main Street to Olive Oyl’s Carry Out Cuisine, a perfect spot for fast provisioning. In a white house almost next door, the Essex Coffee and Tea Company is the Essex version of a coffeehouse, with monthly displays by local artists. And if you want a casual breakfast, lunch or dinner with a waterfront view head back to Abbey’s Place just behind the Brewer Dauntless Shipyard.
When you’re through eating, walk down to the foot of Main Street to the Connecticut River Museum. You’ll find one of the best views of the river, great exhibits on shipbuilding and local geology, plus a full-size replica of the Turtle, the first American submarine, built by David Bushnell of nearby Westbrook in 1776.
For evening entertainment check out the Ivoryton Playhouse, a ten-minute cab ride away. Katharine Hepburn started there in 1931; it has also starred Eva Gabor and Marlon Brando. If you have more time, try the Essex Steam Train and Riverboat, which starts at the 1892 Essex train station and heads along the shoreline to Deep River Landing, where you climb aboard the Becky Thatcher, a three-deck Mississippi River-style riverboat for a ride farther up the river.
Before you leave the Essex area, cruise just a mile upriver to Hamburg Cove, with a narrow entrance east of Brockway Island. Drop the hook and feel your blood pressure fall; this is one of the prettiest and best-protected boating spots around. If you want to explore, you can follow the green markers to the end of the cove and find Reynolds Garage & Marine, a small freshwater marina. Mind the channel. I’ve bounced off the bottom there in my Grand Banks 36 several times, but I wouldn’t miss Hamburg Cove for the world.
