Category: Destinations

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Some Sound, ME

Fjord or Fjard?

No matter how you spell it, Maine’s Somes Sound may well be the highlight of your summer cruising schedule.

Somes Sound—the only fjord on the east coast of the U.S.—almost splits Maine’s Mount Desert Island in half, providing a unique, protected and enormously appealing cruising destination. Way up in Maine, close to the bustling summer resort of Bar Harbor, Somes Sound is a long way to go for most cruisers. But once you’re there you’re bound to agree that it’s well worth the trip not only for cruising in the sound itself—some of the most beautiful, unspoiled surroundings on the entire east coast—but also because of the extra benefits it offers. Somes Sound is next to Acadia National Park, with 55 miles of hiking, biking and even horse-carriage trails, and two quintessential Down East towns flank it—Southwest Harbor on the near side and Northeast Harbor on the far.

For summer cruisers exploring the Northeast, Somes Sound is an ideal final destination before turning around and heading back south, particularly in late summer and early fall when there’s generally less fog than in June and July. From the popular ports of Rockland and Camden, follow the east shore of Penobscot Bay and turn down Eggemoggin Reach, a classic Maine cruise in its own right. Then head over to Bass Harbor at the tip of Mount Desert Island. Follow the peninsula up about 7.5 miles and you’ll find a wide-open approach to Southwest Harbor.

In many ways, the Mount Desert Island area is a step back in time. For the first half of the last century it was a favorite summer vacation destination for wealthy families from New York and Philadelphia. Indeed, John D. Rockefeller had a summer “cottage” there and built the carriage trails in Acadia National Park from 1913 to 1940. And with its one main street lined with small boutiques and galleries, Southwest Harbor (year-round population of 1,764) hearkens back to a kinder, gentler era. But Southwest Harbor is also home to a working lobster fleet and is the birthplace of such iconic Down East brands as Jarvis Newman, Wilbur, Ellis, and Hinckley, with John Williams and Morris nearby.

Coming into Southwest Harbor today, you’ll first pass the Ellis yard on your left and then the large Hinckley yard as well; they both offer transient facilities plus any repairs you may need. But farther inside the harbor, Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina is the largest yard in the area with 150 slips and dock space for a 180-foot yacht. Dysart’s is a full-service yard and houses a West Marine chandlery, but it has diesel only at the fuel dock. You can walk to the center of town in a manner of minutes from Dysart’s, but first, fuel-up your belly at the marina—Breakfast at Grumpy’s restaurant is a local institution. (Try the Lobster and Crab Benedict.)

On the north side of the harbor you’ll find half a dozen town moorings and Beal’s Lobster Pier, a working lobster pier with a gas and diesel fuel dock, and a seafood restaurant with picnic tables at the end of the pier. Tie up at the small dock there if you’re eating at Beal’s; they will also deliver fresh seafood to your boat. For more formal dining, Red Sky is back toward the village. It offers fresh seafood but specializes in local organic produce. Don’t bother dressing up for Red Sky—this is Maine, after all, and you’re welcome to come straight from your boat.

At the far side of Southwest Harbor just around Clark’s Point leading to Somes Sound, you’ll find the Claremont Hotel, a six-acre waterfront resort that first opened in 1884. The Claremont offers gourmet dining in its Xanthus restaurant, with water views from every table. The Claremont’s Boathouse restaurant directly on the water is more casual.

And then there’s Somes Sound itself, formed about 14,000 years ago as the last glaciers retreated. Indeed, large boulders deposited by the melting ice sheet mark The Narrows, the entrance to the sound just above Southwest Harbor. About four miles long and often 150 feet deep, the sound is overlooked by Cadillac Mountain—the highest point on the Eastern seaboard at 1,530 feet. Apparently there is some dispute whether Somes Sound actually qualifies as a fjord, since it doesn’t have the extremely high side cliffs associated with Norwegian fjords. Consequently, it is now often called a fjard, meaning a drowned glacial bay. Either way, the place is beautiful and the vistas are unique. Cruising the sound, you’ll see few signs of human habitation since much of it is next to the national park—it feels as if you’re cruising in a wilderness, miles from civilization.

There are some signs of life, however. About halfway up on the left side, the John Williams Boat Company—which still makes elegant Down East style boats—has guest moorings in front of its yard. Their motto, which seems perfect for the setting, is simply “No corporate culture. No dealer incentives. No focus groups. Just boats.” And beautiful boats, at that.

When you’re through exploring Somes Sound, make a broad left turn and head into Northeast Harbor. (It’s only about two miles across from Southwest Harbor on a direct route). At this point you’re entering Maine as it was generations ago. Northeast Harbor is smaller, more peaceful and even more protected than Southwest Harbor, and the little village has fewer tourists. Entering the harbor, Clifton Dock is on the left, with a fuel dock (gas and diesel) and some moorings. Just a bit farther is Northeast Harbor Marina with 56 slips, 70 moorings, 30-, 50- and 100-amp service, and dock space for a 220-foot yacht.

Next to the marina, the Watermark Restaurant and Lounge at the Kimball Terrace Inn offers bistro-style food, local beer and a great view. For a spectacular harbor view, as well as a taste of turn-of-the-century Maine, try the Asticou Inn at the head of the harbor. The classic summer resort has been there since 1882. Peabody’s, the Asticou’s elegant restaurant, is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The Asticou Azalea Garden across the road from the inn and the Thuya Gardens just up the road are owned and maintained by the Mount Desert Land and Garden Preserve. They both have beautiful gardens and terraces, while the Thuya Gardens provide a panoramic view of the harbor. A public landing and dinghy dock at the head of the harbor leads to the gardens and miles of hiking trails.

The easiest way to get around all of Mount Desert Island, however, is to hop on one of the free, propane-powered Island Explorer Shuttle buses. They have stops just a short walk from the marinas in Southwest Harbor and Northeast Harbor, and go all around the island, including the national park and Bar Harbor. Make note of your favorites, as you’ll most likely be back next summer, and probably the summer after that.

— CRUISER RESOURCES —
DOCKAGE

Ellis Boat Company
265 Seawall Rd., Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-9221 • ellisboat.com

Hinckley Yachts
130 Shore Rd., Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-5531 • hinckleyyachts.com

Dysart’s Great Harbor Marina
11 Apple Lane, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-0117 • dysartsmarina.com

John Williams Boat Company
17 Shipwright Lane, Mt. Desert, ME 04660
(207) 244-7854 • jwboatco.com

Clifton Dock
8 Clifton Dock Rd., Northeast Harbor, ME 04662
(207) 276-5308 

Northeast Harbor Marina
41 Harbor Dr., Northeast Harbor, ME 04662
(207) 276-573

RESTAURANTS

Breakfast at Grumpy’s (at Dysart’s Marina)
11 Apple Lane, Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-1082 • breakfastatgrumpys.com

Beal’s Lobster Pier
182 Clark Point Rd., Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-3202 • bealslobsterpier.net

Red Sky Restaurant
14 Clark Point Rd., Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-0476 • redskyrestaurant.com

  ATTRACTIONS

Acadia National Park
20 McFarland Hill Dr., Bar Harbor, ME 04609
(207) 288-3338 • nps.gov/acad

Claremont Hotel
22 Claremont Rd., Southwest Harbor, ME 04679
(207) 244-5036 • theclaremonthotel.com

Asticou Inn
15 Peabody Dr., Northeast Harbor, ME 04662
(207) 276-3344 • asticou.com

Island Explorer Shuttle
(207) 667-5796; exploreacadia.com

By Peter A. Janssen, Southern Boating Magazine, September 2014

Texas floods

Texas set record-breaking rainfall in May with a month-long deadly deluge of seemingly biblical proportions. Perhaps the one positive takeaway, as residents begin to put their lives back to normal, is the subsiding of extreme drought conditions that were plaguing the state.

Lake and reservoir levels are slowly returning to normal, which bode well for this fast growing state, the environment and boaters since for many in Texas, boating is a way of life.

Lake levels across the state have been at perilous and exceptional lows for the past few years. Many boat ramps and marinas were left high and dry, while boaters’ safety was becoming an issue in some places as boats were hitting shallows or newly exposed debris causing significant damages to hulls or engines. Rivers and creeks dried up and without the influx of fresh water into the estuaries along the Gulf, these nursery grounds for redfish, speckled trout, black drum and flounder have been in severe distress. The $17 billion tourism economy—much attributed to the appeal of Texas’ lakes and Gulf Coast—showed signs of sluggishness.

Let’s hope this will signal the end of the drought for Texas and along with it the return of its unique boating culture and people back out on the water.

Kemah boardwalk
Those last few steps in the sands and dives in the waves of the Gulf of Mexico on Galveston Island are approaching fast as there are only a few weekends left to take the kids out boating and allow them to create great memories and stories that last throughout the school year. Kemah’s Boardwalk is an easy day or weekend boating trip for most residents in the Houston area and an ideal family-friendly way to close out the summer.

Located on Galveston Bay, Kemah’s Boardwalk has a full-service marina catering to transients looking for endless dockside dining, outdoor concerts and a carnival-like atmosphere for the kids. Filled with rides, the Boardwalk draws in families from the Houston area, where there’s no better way to visit and escape traffic than by boat. Transient boaters can find slip space at the marina from 30-50 feet. Reservations are advisable.

In August, live salsa bands wander the boardwalk and add to the excitement of the carousel and other rides. As the sun sets, parents can enjoy the atmosphere or savor fresh local oysters and redfish from their choice of six waterfront restaurants. Whether you stay on board your boat or get a room at the Boardwalk Inn, the Kemah Boardwalk is an easy weekend getaway and a world away from the start of the school season. It might also stimulate you to untie those lines and become even more adventurous in exploring Texas’ sprawling Gulf Coast.

By Harlen Leslie, Southern Boating Magazine August 2015

Dauphin Island Race tragedy

More than 100 sailboats headed south in Mobile Bay for the 57th running of the Dauphin Island Regatta on April 25th. The race—hosted by a syndicate of the Fairhope, Mobile and Buccaneer Yacht Clubs—is a tradition in South Alabama and is considered to be more of a fun and less serious regatta. As such, the 17 nautical mile race sailing south to overnight parties and events on Alabama’s barrier island not only draws experienced racing crew from the region but also skippers and teams that may only take their boats out once a year. In the regatta’s heyday in the 80s and 90s, upwards of 400 boats would participate.

Under no weather warnings or watches, the regatta started about an hour and a half late due to miscommunication and a very common general recall for one of the starts. While there was a storm front moving toward Mobile Bay, the very weather-aware boaters and the Race Committee sailed in a steady 15-16 knots of breeze under overcast, yet non-threatening skies.

Three and a half hours after the race started a supercell thunderstorm exploded and slammed the fleet of boats that was spread throughout the bay racing, returning to home port or tying up at the giant raft-up on Dauphin Island. The storm moved over the fleet at 60 knots with an initial windblast of 70 knots and caught many of the vessels in open waters. For more than 30 minutes the crews battled a sustained breeze of 50 knots and seas that kicked up in only minutes to 8 feet in the shallow bay. Docked vessels were ripped from their moorings.

In the aftermath, 10 sailboats from 20 to 27 feet in length were sunk bringing a total of 40 souls into the water. Most were rescued by their fellow competitors, who, along with the U.S. Coast Guard and multiple other agencies, patrolled the bay for hours in what became an exhaustive search. A local fisherman who was on the bay, along with many others, was also lost and brought the death toll to six.

U.S. Sailing Olympic Team Boatwright Donnie Brennan, who has sailed in this regatta for more than 20 years, was racing with friends that day when they were caught returning home among many of the slower keelboats still finishing the race. “Mother Nature keeps preaching to us over and over again this same lesson and I don’t know why we have to keep relearning it. Safety is always first. Always have life jackets on or nearby, take down the sails and close the hatches because in that first gulp of water, 250 gallons go into the boat, and in the second it’s 400 gallons. For the third gulp, the boat goes to the bottom,” Brennan said, who along with his fellow crewmembers pulled two people from the water that afternoon. One was wearing a lifejacket and the other, in severe distress, was not.

By Troy Gilbert, Southern Boating Magazine, August 2015

Spanish Wells Marine skiff

For those who want to own a really fine boat and be part of a Bahamian tradition, Spanish Wells Boatworks of Riviera Beach, Florida, has reintroduced the Spanish Wells Marine skiff. In the 1980s Chris Morejohn designed a 19-foot improved version of the Albury speed boats that were then the primary outboard skiff of the Spanish Wells fishermen. More than 150 boats for the Spanish Wells fishing fleet, other fishermen and amateurs were built. About 15 years ago it became too expensive to build these boats in Spanish Wells, and many of the crawfishermen were pushing harder in rougher weather and wanted larger boats. Spanish Wells Marine stopped building and fishermen began to switch to Pangas and Makos—though there are still plenty of Marine skiffs in service.

The molds for the Marine skiffs were sold and had a checkered history, but they were recently recovered and refit by Spanish Wells Boatworks. The new boats have the same general hull shape, but they are built lighter and out of better materials. They also have a raised interior deck to make the boat self-bailing and provide for larger tanks. All the boats are semi-custom, so there are a variety of great ways to outfit the boats.

The Marina skiff is among the finest kind of boats for The Bahamas, and it is wonderful to know it has been reborn with significant improvements. spanishwellsboatworks.com

Guard Your Health
Medical facilities in The Bahamas and Family Island clinics—which provide good, basic care—continue to improve. On the advice of a Family Island clinic’s doctor, I recently flew to Nassau and received excellent care in the emergency room of Doctor’s Hospital. Make sure to check with your insurance for international coverage.

Cruisers should always be prepared to administer first aid and CPR training. At least two people on board should have some level of medical training in the event the medically trained person requires emergency assistance. Start with the basic Red Cross courses and certificates. If you have unusual medical conditions or are planning an extended ocean voyage, you may want further training and knowledge.

Many medical kits are available (West Marine offers a good range for coastal and offshore waters). Your kit should contain a first aid manual and a comprehensive book such as The Ship’s Medical Chest and Medical Aid at Sea.

Discuss your trip with your family doctor, who can give you advice on your individual risks and special needs. This is especially important for people with chronic conditions such as diabetes, heart disease and allergies. Plan for the proper supply of prescription medicines and inquire about defibrillators, oxygen, IVs, and other advanced supplies you might need.

Communication is critical. Be certain to have emergency contact numbers on hand and at the ready such as the U.S. Coast Guard (305) 415-6800 or the Royal Bahamas Defense Force (242) 362-2494.

Going through the “what ifs” can be an effective exercise. What if the Captain is completely disabled? What if someone has a heart attack? What if someone sustains a spinal injury? What if our vessel is struck by lightning and we lose installed communications? Plan and gain more confidence as you depart familiar shores. The better prepared you are, the more you can enjoy cruising.

Ongoing Upgrade
The Bimini Big Game Club Resort & Marina has completed the first phase of a $5.6 million renovation that includes the construction of a new and larger family pool and the refurbishing of the 75-slip marina (docks A and B), among other major improvements. With a new mantra that reflects its facelift—“Come on in—the water’s fine”—the Bimini Big Game Club Resort & Marina, just 50 miles away from South Florida, has long been a favorite destination for those looking to experience Bimini’s true island feel. A second phase of work, that will include the re-build of a C dock, is scheduled to be completed in the fall. biggameclubbimini.com

Queen Helmet (Cassis madagascariensis). Photo: Stephen Connett

Beachcombing
Beachcombing is especially fun in The Bahamas. Take a heart-healthy walk on a gorgeous beach and look for the rare, the common and the beautiful. Search the wrack and intertidal zones for sea beans, shells, sand dollars, sea glass, and the elusive glass ball.Don’t take any living organisms. Shelling is not allowed in national parks, but that leaves hundreds of miles of beaches. There are shelling fanatics who play the tides, take only prime specimens, and have spectacular collections.

Navigation Notes
Cape Eleuthera: Only the small red and green buoys at the entrance are still in commission. There are no range markers. The entrance is on an easterly heading and easy to see in daylight. The marina can be entered at night with care and a good radar.

Spanish Wells: The western entrance to the harbor is well marked and the channel is kept clear by a lot of commercial traffic. The marker pole at the north end of the channel is bent over but still visible at high water. The eastern entrance is missing several poles, but the channel is easy to see in daylight. The vertical I-beam off Ridley’s head has rusted off down low and can barely be seen at high tide. It is doubtful whether the channel through the Devil’s Backbone to Harbour Island will ever be properly marked again. A local pilot is cheap insurance since they know the shifting sands and, most important, when and when not to make the passage through this area known to be frequently difficult to cruise.

Bimini: The channel into Bimini is generally well-maintained, but the markers are not always reliable. Be prepared and allow for the current. The channel up to the Resorts World Marina is well-marked and dredged to 12 feet. The entrance through the jetties into Bimini Sands was dredged in January, but it is best to call the marina office before making your approach.

By Stephen Connett, Southern Boating Magazine August, 2015

Day Five: Brewer’s Bay and Great Harbor Island

Day Five: Brewer’s Bay and Great Harbor Island

We departed Scrub Island at a leisurely pace and headed west along the northern coast of Tortola. After 40 minutes of cruising we arrived at our first destination of the day, Brewers Bay. This small, well-protected cove provided a picture perfect backdrop for our day filled with snorkeling, swimming and exploring the beach. We visited the small bar along the sand and met the local patrons and owner, Miss Lou who told us more about the history of the area and sprinkled in a little gossip too. We hated to leave but were anxious to get to our next destination, Great Harbor on Jost Van Dyke. We carefully selected our mooring ball to get the most protection from the strong winds common in this area and then quickly launched our dinghy so we could explore the famous little village. We strolled along the waterside road that is home to several small bars, restaurants, a gift shop, small market and dive shop. The strip is anchored by the well-known Foxy’s Bar where we popped in for a cold drink and took in the scenery of hundreds of T-shirts hung by patrons from around the world. Our evening ended with a fabulous meal and great conversation on the aft deck of our boat, doesn’t get much better than that.

Day Four: George Dog Island and Scrub Island

Day Four: George Dog Island and Scrub Island

We left Anegada and arrived an hour later at a cluster of islands known as “the Dogs.” There were no open moorings at Great Dog Island (you can’t anchor because it’s a national park) so we decided to head over to George Dog Island, where we had a great time and saw some beautiful reefs—beware of the thousands of baby jelly fish! The lush vegetation on the tiny beach we visited formed what seemed like a personal natural hideaway. Under the hideaway, visitors have left behind balanced stacks of rocks, we added to the tradition and created our own.

From George Dog we headed out and cruised to Scrub Island Resort & Marina on Scrub Island, our next home for the night. Once all docked and the boats hosed down, we opted for some pool-side relaxing time. We lost ourselves in the vast blue of the horizon from the infinity pool and sat back in the saltwater jacuzzi—the cherry on top. The luxurious property offers multiple villas, hotel rooms, a dive shop and market—yet has the feel of a small and intimate property. Taken by the island’s natural beauty, we chose to have dinner at Tierra! Tierra! their outdoor restaurant. We enjoyed a large spread of foods ranging from jerk chicken wings, ribs to red snapper ceviche and fresh caught grouper as we listened to the rhythmic sound of steel drums—island music par excellence.

Day Three: Anegada Island

Day Three: Anegada Island

Today, we cruised to the island of Anegada, whose highest point on the island is only 28 feet and has a population of only 250 people. Upon arriving we were greeted by several dinghy boats driven by locals, serenading and promoting their many services including dinner reservations, taxi cabs, fishing charters, and nightly entertainment. Each local was more creative than the next in trying to score our business. The one that stuck out the most was Sacko Sam (“with a capital S,” he says) as he approached the boat singing his own made up tunes to what a beautiful morning it was! He arranged for a taxi ride to take us from his restaurant to Loblolly Beach (north shore of the island), which boasts the best snorkeling on the island. We opted for the more local spot and were brought to Flash of Beauty Beach—a shack like building/restaurant run by a woman from Trinidad. Our taxi driver was very engaging and knowledgeable. He gave us a bit of a history lesson on our ride to the beach, showed us the local flamingos, wild goats, cows, and where sharks come to give birth. He was filled with fun facts! Did you know that certain fibers extracted from the leaves of an agave plant can be used to stitch your sail or even your skin? Fun facts aside, the snorkeling was amazing as strong currents kept us on the move allowing us to see a good portion of the reef.

Dinner gets it’s own paragraph because the entire experience was that spectacular! We decided to eat at Potter’s by the Sea, which is where Sacko Sam prepared a fabulous lobster dinner for 10. The lobsters are unlike any other I’ve ever seen before for consumption (especially in the United States). Sam brought what looked like an 8-10 pound lobster to tease us for what we were in store for at dinner. The meal was prepared Caribbean-style complete with grilled lobsters prepared a la Sam. After dinner, dancing under the stars and limbo began. Before departing Anegada we left our mark at Potter’s, southern boating style, leaving behind our vacation shirt and signing our names with Sharpies! So, bring your sharpies and leave your mark too!

Day Two: Virgin Gorda Island

Day Two: Virgin Gorda Island

Our first full day on the boat was a great one! We threw “ structure” out of our day and just went with the flow—what an amazing feeling. We woke up and started cruising to our next destination before we even had breakfast; we just couldn’t wait! This kind of laxity isn’t something you get to experience on a daily basis, but how easy would it be to get used to.

Our first stop was Virgin Gorda to see The Baths. The gargantuan boulders lie on the sands like marbles a giant left behind. Our first suggestion to everyone visiting The Baths, is to make sure you pick the right spot to start exploring. We made the mistake of unloading all of our gear too far north and ended up having to do a lot of extra swimming to circumvent some of the spots with boulders. The only way we would have been able to get around was by jumping from boulder to boulder (!). We could have stayed there all day, it was stunning.

Our second and last stop for the day was at Bitter End Yacht Club. We slowly cruised up the coast from The Baths to BEYC. First thing on our agenda as we arrived at the club was frozen drinks at the pool—so refreshing. We had dinner at one of their restaurants (The Clubhouse Steak & Seafood Grille); they couldn’t have sat us at a better table—just a foot away from the water. The property and service are top notch.

Not much to report on after-dinner activities as we are starting to notice a trend: Staying up past 9PM is proving to be very difficult after a day full of fun in the sun!

Head South to the Aruba Regatta

Big boats, beach cats and board sailors will all find a class in which to compete at the International Aruba Regatta set for August 14 to 16. An 80-plus boat fleet is expected with sailors flying in from Bonaire, Curaçao, Venezuela, the United States, Belgium, and the Netherlands. The action takes place off Surfside Beach located between the Queen Beatrix International Airport and the island’s capitol of Oranjestad. Last year’s additions of stand-up paddleboard and micro-boat races as well as a self-built boat demonstration and race are set to continue. “One of the things that makes this regatta special is that all courses, which are short and geared toward competitive sailing, are in sight of the regatta beach. This makes it possible to follow the races from the shade of the beach tents with a beer in your hand!” says organizer Eric Mijts. Shoreside activities include food, live music and entertainment at the Regatta Village on Surfside Beach. aruba-regatta.com

Center Console Tournament in the U.S.V.I.
Get your team together and be one of the first to fish the new ‘Wet N’ Wild’ Center Console Tournament set for August 28th and 29th to be held out of IGY’s American Yacht Harbor Marina, on St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. “Fishermen in this two-day tournament, which is held in tandem with the USVI Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament (ABMT), can score points by catching the Virgin Islands ‘Big 5’—blue marlin, white marlin, sailfish, wahoo and yellowfin tuna—on stand-up light tackle,” says Tournament Director Jimmy Loveland. “There will be best team prizes for the top three teams with the most points and a Best Angler prize.” Entries are expected from the B.V.I., Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic, St. Martin, and the U.S. mainland. Several center consoles are available for charter from outfits such as Ocean Surfaris, Capt. Alvin and Offshore Adventures. The ‘Wet N’ Wild’ Center Console Tournament is part of MarlinFest, a week of fun activities around the ABMT that includes an arts and crafts festival, chowder competition, golf tournament, beach BBQ, and daytrip to the BVI. abmt.vi

New Boatyard in Grenada
The Clarke’s Court Boatyard & Marina has been redeveloped into a major yacht storage yard under new ownership. Located on Grenada’s southern shore east of the capital of St. George’s, the yard can haul vessels up to 242 tons with a 39-foot beam and store up to 400 yachts at a time on the hard. A soft opening happens this month, while Phase I will be completed shortly after. This includes the haul-out slipway, reinforced load-bearing track, concreting of the main storage area, washrooms, and service building that will house the chandlery. The build-out of Phases II and III, which includes development of the marina and construction of a restaurant, swimming pool and accommodations, will follow over the next few years. Call (473) 439-3939; info@clarkescourtmarina.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating August 2015

Fishing Tournament Raises Money For Cancer Research

Women looking to get in on the fishing opportunities in the Virginia Beach area can join the fun at this year’s Wine, Women and Fishing tournament August 15-16 at Southside Marina. Hosted by the Chesapeake Bay Wine Classic Foundation, the fundraiser has raised more than $300,000 for breast cancer research at the Eastern Virginia Medical School. Women of all levels of fishing expertise are welcome.

Registration and a captain’s meeting will be held from 5:30PM to 7:30PM Saturday with the fishing on Sunday beginning at 8:30AM. Scales open at 5PM, while the dock bash begins with an awards ceremony, music and dinner from 7PM to 10PM.

The event includes a variety of wine seminars and bourbon tastings. You can also shop for artwork, jewelry and accessories from the Bling Lady. cbwc.org

Art on the waterfront
The 34th New World Festival of the Arts is set for August 12-13 on the waterfront in downtown Manteo on North Carolina’s Outer Banks. The show will exhibit original works from 75 East Coast artists including more than a dozen new artists who will present watercolors, oil and acrylic, graphics, drawings, photography, jewelry, sculpture, and pottery. The show runs from 10AM to 5PM Wednesday, and 10AM to 4:30PM Thursday. darearts.org

Manteo offers plenty of transient dockage at its waterfront marina, and the walkable historic town flaunts restaurants, museum, historical attractions, and shops with nautical flair. Shallowbag Bay Marina provides a modern full-service marina with transient dockage for boats up to 65 feet.

CBPBA cruise
The Chesapeake Bay Power Boat Association’s destination cruise to Lowe’s Wharf on the Eastern Shore of Maryland’s Bay Hundred peninsula is August 22-23.Lowe’s Wharf is located between St. Michaels and Tilghman Island and offers waterfront guest rooms, a restaurant, patio bar, ship’s store, marina, and activities such as charter fishing, sunset cruises, crabbing, kayaking, bicycling, bonfires, volleyball, cornhole toss, and billiards. Alternately, just relax on the private beach and watch the sunset.

Mooring balls and transient slips (4′ 5″ depth) are available. The marina offers gas and diesel, Wi-Fi, showers, and a pump-out station. cbpba.com

Music all week long
Chesapeake Beach Resort & Spa on the western shore of the mid-Chesapeake offers live music daily this summer through September 24th—cover charge is from $5 to $59 depending on the band. Scheduled groups in August include Roger McDuffy, Memories of the King (an Elvis tribute), Great Train Robbery, and Sons of Pirates (a Jimmy Buffet tribute). Marina guests enjoy full privileges at the resort, which include showers and laundry facilities, use of the fitness center and sauna, a business center, spa, and a heated indoor pool. chesapeakebeachresortspa.com

By Christophy Knauss, Southern Boating, August 2015

Day One: Cooper Island

Day One: Cooper Island

Cruising day one of our great vacation has come and gone! It began with finishing up provisioning for both of our boats, so we can start cruising towards Cooper Island. The journey was short with beautiful views including the spectacular multiple-shades of blue water. The most difficult decision of the afternoon was definitely picking out which moorings to tie up to, just kidding!

St. Croix

The Big Island

St. Croix is set apart from her U.S.V.I. sisters but well worth the journey.

Arrive by sea to St. Croix’s main harbor in Christiansted and you’ll think you’re sailing back in time. Fort Christiansvaern looms large. Its sunny yellow exterior crafted from ballast brick and completed in the mid-1700s once protected against pirates and privateers. Today, the fort is part of the Christiansted National Historic Site, a seven-acre complex of historic buildings such as the Customs House, Scale House, and Danish West Indian & Guinea Company Warehouse that are managed by the U.S. National Park Service and open to the public. Several yards to the west is a two-story tall coral-rock constructed replica of a sugar-era windmill. It’s a beacon to thirsty mariners since nowadays it doubles as a bar on the waterfront’s boardwalk. Then, there’s Christiansted itself. The one-square-mile settlement is an amazing showpiece of 18th-century colonial architecture iconic for its red-hued roofs under which currently sit trendy restaurants, jewelry shops and art galleries. History, a chance to really experience bygone times up close and personal, is what sets St. Croix apart from its sibling U.S. Virgin Islands of St. Thomas and St. John. Yet there is plenty of nature to love on St. Croix, too, as well as a host of modern-day services, luxuries and amenities.

St. Croix’s 84-square-miles makes it nearly triple the size of St. Thomas’ 31-square-miles and over four times larger than St. John—both islands are situated some 40 nautical miles to the north-northeast. The “Big Island”, as its often nicknamed, boasts a few other distinguishing points. For one, St. Croix was the last to become part of the Danish West Indies. The Danes moved south in 1733 to expand their sugar plantation empire, but they weren’t the first to do so. St. Croix has been the most fought over of the Virgins. Seven nations and military groups have laid claim to the island—Spain, the Netherlands, England, France, the Knights of Malta, Denmark, and the United States—the flags of whom line the dock at the St. Croix Yacht Club in Teague Bay. The island’s size proved a boon to the U.S. upon purchase in 1917. Not only did this provide America with a sizable military presence in the Caribbean, it has since proved valuable for investment. Rum, from the Cruzan and Captain Morgan distilleries—both offer tours and sampling bars—is a three-century-old industry that now pumps from $100-250 million back into the local economy annually thanks to a federal excise tax. Until 2011, St. Croix was home to the second largest petroleum refinery in the western hemisphere, which closed in 2012 and is now up for sale. Looking ahead, it’s the island’s location at the nexus of a global fiber optic telecommunications system that has it poised to attract cutting edge commercial enterprises.

But it’s not employment that brings most people to St. Croix. Rather, it’s the mix of laidback civilization combined with the oftentimes deserted beaches and anchorages that provide a Robinson Crusoe feel in the 21st century.

Christiansted is the perfect place to start a visit. This is especially true if you are traveling by sea from a non-U.S. port. The Customs and Immigration office is located one mile east of downtown, in Gallows Bay, adjacent to St. Croix Marine. George Custer, a 30-year veteran megayacht captain, bought this 44-slip marina and boatyard last year. He offers fuel, a chandlery, DIY yard and services such as welding, fiberglass, painting, and resto-mod work—retrofitting classic powerboats and small pedigree sailboats with green technology while maintaining the traditional lines. It’s an easy walk to Gallows Bay and downtown Christiansted where there are plenty of places to eat, drink and shop as well as to arrange a day sail, sports fishing or scuba diving trip. Special events in this area include Happy Hour hermit crab races at the Fort Christian Brew Pub on Mondays, free Jazz concerts the third Friday of each month, and four annual street parties called Jump-Ups held in late November, mid February, early May, and mid-July.

Frederiksted, 15 miles west of Christiansted, is the second largest town on St. Croix. A number of cruise ships dock at the Pier each year, yet pleasure boats must anchor in the open harbor. There are a couple of restaurants, but the real draw here is what to see and do in the surrounding area. Crucian Heritage and Nature Tourism (CHANT) hosts 90-minute historic walking tours of the town when there is a cruise ship in port. The tour group also offers a three-hour tour to the sustainable Ridge to Reef Farm, in the island’s rainforest, where there is hiking, birdwatching and sampling locally grown fruits and vegetables. The Whim Plantation Greathouse Museum, two miles east of Frederiksted, depicts life on an 18th-century sugar plantation and hosts candlelight concerts, starving artist days and an antiques fair. Two miles east of Whim is the St. George’s Village Botanical Garden with its rainforest walk, cactus garden and impressive stand of mahogany trees.

The best anchorages on St. Croix are along the island’s north shore where a barrier reef protects the coastline. One of these is at Salt River, west of Christiansted, where Christopher Columbus dropped anchor and set his crew ashore for food and water in 1493. The Jones family, who arrived to the island nearly 30 years ago and started the first ASA sailing school in Christiansted, renovated and reopened the 40-slip Salt River Marina a few years ago. It has kayak rentals and dive shop. Next door are the construction facilities of Gold Coast Yachts, famous for their seaworthy multihulls.

Teague Bay to the east is another excellent anchorage. The St. Croix Yacht Club, which hosts the St. Croix International Regatta each November and a number of smaller regattas each year, is based here. The Buck Island Reef National Monument, or Buck Island for short, is less than one nautical mile to the northeast. This 176-acre island, which is managed by the U.S. National Park Service, is uninhabited except for day trippers and boasts white sand beaches, a hiking trail and an underwater snorkel trail.

St. Croix, owing to its U.S. flag status, is filled with all the comforts of a home on the mainland. There are large supermarkets, strip malls, big box stores such as Home Depot, and fast food chains like McDonald’s, KFC and Pizza Hut for those with a hankering for the U.S. mainland. Tourism is robust. Luxury resorts such as The Buccaneer, with its spas and fine dining, are perched right on the beach as is the island’s only casino at the Divi Carina Bay Beach Resort. Direct daily flights on American Airlines, US Airways and jetBlue arrive from Miami, Charlotte and Boston, respectively, to the Alexander Hamilton Airport where most rental cars come with GPS as a handy tour guide. Contemporary amenities in a historic setting is what makes St. Croix a best-of-both-worlds cruising destination.

CRUISER RESOURCES
MARINAS

St. Croix Marine, Gallows Bay
(340) 773-0289
info@stcroixmarine.com
stcroixmarine.com

Green Cay Marina, Tamarind Reef Resort
Estate Southgate
(340) 718-1453
tamarindreefresort.com

Salt River Marina
Salt River
(340) 778-9650

PROVISIONS

Plaza Extra
Christiansted Bypass
•Large full-service supermarket
•Open daily

Cost-U-Less, Sion Farm
Christiansted
•Big box store, no membership required
•Open daily

Blue Water Terrace
Cotton Valley
•Small combo restaurant, deli and market
•Open Thursdays through Mondays

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating March 2015

The Great Southern Boating Vacation

Southern Boating is going on an adventure and wants to bring you along!

Join us as we cruise through the British Virgin Islands discovering new adventures and cuisine aboard two of the Moorings’ powercat motoryachts. Our family vacation will take us cruising through seven islands before ending back in Tortola.

Mark your calendars because our adventure sets sail August 7th. Here’s our initial itinerary:
Day 1, Cooper Island; Day 2-3, Virgin Gorda Island; Day 4, Anegada Island; Day 5, Marina Cay; Day 6, Cane Garden Bay; Day 7, Great Harbour.

Day One: Cooper Island

Southern Boating Crew at The Moorings Base before leaving the docks

 

Day Two: Virgin Gorda Island

Giant boulders create some amazing adventures to explore and enjoy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Three: Anegada

Southern Boating proudly flying it’s burgee.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our journey has been extraordinary and we are having a wonderful time. We have been plagued with not so reliable WiFi connections. We’ll keep posting.

Day Four: George Dog Island and Scrub Island

The Moorings PowerSails in front of Pusser’s on our way into Scrub Island.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Five: Brewer’s Bay and Great Harbor Island

Cruising the west side of Tortola, BVI.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Six: White Bay, Sandy Cay, and Norman’s Island

Mooring off White Bay and going to visit the Soggy Dollar store.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Seven: Privateer Bay, Solder Bay, and Tortola

Heading to Privateer Bay to explore the caves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day Eight: Heading Home

The airport entrance—the vacation is over.

Portland, ME

The Maine Event

Dock and dine your way through this picturesque New England haven.

It’s easy to pass by Portland if you’re cruising Down East on a rhumb line from the Cape Cod Canal to the popular Boothbay or Penobscot Bay areas. After all, the coastline curves west at Portland, so you might think it’s a bit out of the way. But think again, because Portland—once an industrial town with a hard-working commercial waterfront—has transformed itself into a vibrant city with a thriving art and restaurant scene and some of the best full-service marinas in the Northeast. And Casco Bay, with its handful of small islands, historic forts and iconic lighthouses—not to mention rocky ledges and finger-like peninsulas—offers some of the best cruising in a state already famous for its spectacular cruising grounds.

Portland is charming because it’s the gateway to the real Down East but still has a feel of a small town, even though it’s the largest city in the state with a population of 66,194. With cobblestoned streets rising up a small hill from the Old Port waterfront (the downtown section), almost everything in Portland is accessible and within walking distance, even in a pair of boat shoes. The I.M. Pei-designed Art Museum is easy to find; so are restaurants of almost every description. Indeed, with 230 restaurants in town, Portland has the highest proportion of restaurants per capita of any city in the U.S.—and they’re good. In 2009, Bon Appétit called Portland “America’s foodiest small town.” The harbor, meanwhile, is full of recreational boats, power and sail; old schooners carrying tourists out in the bay; fast ferries; commercial fishing boats; a fleet of working lobster boats—and tons of lobster pots. There are countless reasons why 3.6 million tourists visit Portland every year.

But history has not always been kind to Portland. The first European to land there was Christopher Levett, an English sea captain, who arrived in 1623 with 10 men and a grant of 6,000 acres from King Charles I to start a settlement. He built a stone house for his men then sailed back to England, where he wrote about the wonder of the New World; his men were never heard from again. A subsequent trading village was destroyed by the Wampanoag Indians in 1676, but it was rebuilt and destroyed again by the French and Indians in 1690. During the Revolution, Portland was shelled by the British, and in 1866, a fire during Fourth of July celebrations burned down most of the city leaving 10,000 people homeless.

Today, Portland is easy to find. Coming from the south, pick up the sea buoy 12 miles southeast of Portland and 5 miles off Cape Elizabeth. Round Cape Elizabeth and turn north toward the Portland Head Light, 101 feet above the water. First lit in 1791 with 16 whale oil lamps, it’s the oldest continuous lighthouse in the U.S., now maintained by the Coast Guard. The Portland Head Light marks the south side of the entrance channel; across the way, the 77-foot-high Ram Island Ledge Light marks the north side. Go down the main channel—leave Cushing Island to starboard—1.8 miles to the black-and-white 54-foot-high Spring Point Lighthouse at the end of a long breakwater. Follow the channel in a wide left turn into the main harbor.

Before you enter the harbor, though, you have to make a choice. Tie up at the marinas on your left in South Portland to enjoy the peace and quiet with the Greenbelt Walkway that runs along the shoreline and a swimming beach, plus easy access to stores and restaurants? Or head right to Portland proper, the traditional Old Port marinas, with the trendy restaurants and art district?

If you choose Portland itself, it’s hard to miss DiMillo’s Marina, since it’s pretty much in the heart of Old Port. It’s also a large, first-rate, full-service marina with high-speed fuel pumps, 125 slips and room for yachts up to 250 feet. The marina itself is secure and gated and is in front of DiMillo’s floating restaurant, which was a car ferry in its previous life. The restaurant is big and touristy, but it’s a Portland institution and it’s fun.

About half a mile up the harbor, Portland Yacht Services is another large, welcoming marina with 250 slips. The bad news is that it does not have fuel; the good news is that it’s a short walk from Hamilton Marine, the largest marine supply store above Boston. About two miles up from Old Port, the Maine Yacht Center has 80 slips for boats up to 60 feet. It is a full-service marina with gas and diesel and an 80-ton Travelift.

If you opt for the quieter South Portland side of the harbor, Spring Point Marina has 275 slips and claims to be the largest full-service marina in Maine. It can hold yachts up to 200 feet and is within walking distance of the beach and grocery stores. Joe’s Boathouse there serves lunch and dinner.

Up the harbor a bit, Sunset Marina’s full-service yard with 150 slips accommodates yachts up to 250 feet and offers terrific views across the water of Portland and the skyline. Closer to the Casco Bay Bridge leading back to Portland, South Port Marine is well protected; its full-service yard has 170 slips for boats up to 150 feet.

No matter where you tie up, you’ll want to spend some time wandering around Old Port. For the art scene, walk up the hill from the waterfront to Congress Street and turn left. You’ll find more than two-dozen galleries, plus The Portland Museum of Art. The museum is a treasure with 17,000 works, including an impressive permanent Impressionist exhibit with works by Degas, Matisse, Renoir, and Picasso. If you get tired of the Impressionists, take in Maine favorites Winslow Homer and Andrew Wyeth. If you want a first-hand view of the city, head for the Portland Observatory at the top of Munjoy Hill. Built as a signal tower in 1807, the 86-foot-high wooden tower today affords an unbeatable view of Old Port, the harbor and Casco Bay.

If you’re hungry you won’t go wrong at Street & Company on Wharf Street in Old Port for fresh seafood—if it’s crowded you can eat at the bar. For a different atmosphere try Grace, a new restaurant in a 150-year-old Gothic Revival Church with soaring stained glass windows—the menu is American, the experience is unique. Fore Street Restaurant is only a block up from the water; with its wood-burning oven and a menu filled with Maine-centric seafood, meat and game, it has been praised by Gourmet. For a total change of pace, head for Becky’s Diner on the Commercial Street waterfront. A true diner, Becky’s opens at 4AM every day except Thanksgiving and Christmas, so working lobstermen can have an early breakfast, and stays open until 9PM. Try the homemade chowder or, needless-to-say, the Fisherman’s Platter.

If this is your first trip to Portland, go 20 minutes up the road to the L.L. Bean Flagship Store in Freeport, an iconic Maine institution. You don’t need to hurry as Bean’s is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.

CRUISER RESOURCES
DOCKAGE

DiMillo’s Marina
1 Long Wharf
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 773-7632 • dimillos.com/marina

Maine Yacht Center
100 Kensington St.
Portland, ME 04103
(207) 842-9000 • maineyacht.com

Portland Yacht Services
58 Fore St., Portland, ME 04101
(207) 774-1067 • portlandyacht.com

Spring Point Marina
1 Spring Point Dr., South Portland, ME 04106
(207) 767-3254 • portharbormarine.com

South Port Marine
14 Ocean St. • South Portland, ME 04106
(207) 799-8191 • southportmarine.com

Sunset Marina
231 Front St., South Portland, ME 04106
(207) 767-4729 • sunset-marina.com

 

RESTAURANTS

Becky’s Diner
390 Commercial Wharf, Portland, ME 04101
(207) 773-7070 • beckys.com

Fore Street Restaurant
288 Fore St., Portland, ME 04101
(207) 775-2717 • forestreet.biz

Grace
15 Chestnut St., Portland, ME 04101
(207) 828-4422 • restaurantgrace.com

Joe’s Boathouse
1 Spring Point Dr.
South Portland, ME 04106

Street & Company
33 Wharf St.
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 775-0887 • Streetandcompany.net

ATTRACTIONS

L.L. Bean Flagship Store
95 Main St.
Freeport, ME 04032
(877) 755-2326 • llbean.com

Portland Museum of Art
7 Congress Square
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 775-6148 • portlandmuseum.org

Portland Observatory
138 Congress St.
Portland, ME 04101
(207) 774-5561• portlandlandmarks.org/observatory

 

By Peter A. Janssen, Southern Boating Magazine August, 2014

Fort Pierce City Marina, Florida

With easy access to the Atlantic for fun day trips of diving, snorkeling, kayaking, and world-class fishing, and only a short distance from The Bahamas, the nearly 80-year-old Fort Pierce City Marina, Florida, located on the Indian River near the Fort Pierce Inlet, has stood the test of time.

It was shaken down last in 2004 when Hurricanes Frances and Jeanne blasted the Treasure Coast destroying the marina’s slips in the outer basin and damaging many in the inner basin. What followed was a 10-year restoration project—nearing $31 million—spearheaded by Bellingham Marine that led to a refurbished waterfront that included the construction of 13 barrier islands and the addition of 137 wet slips to the marina for a June grand opening. The islands that sit about 700 feet off shore—the largest one is 14 acres—provide critical storm surge protection and serve as a sanctuary for juvenile fish. Mangroves and oyster shells were also planted to attract birds, oyster larvae, fish, and other marine life.

Centrally located and within walking distance from downtown Fort Pierce, the marina offers many amenities including onsite boat and yacht sales, fishing charters, a farmer’s market, two restaurants, and a supply store. Stop by The Original Tiki Bar for an open-air dining experience of bacon-wrapped shrimp, paella and drinks under an authentic Tiki thatched roof, or make your way to Cobb’s Landing for fresh catch choices and its very own Pineapple Mojito at the Mojito Bar.

Head out to the deep blue for world-class sport fishing where barracuda, blackfin tuna, mahi, flounder, kingfish, sailfish, snapper, tarpon, wahoo, and more abound. And if you think that a bit of competition is healthy for the heart, check out Southern Kingfish Association for updates on the latest tournaments. fishska.com

Then when you’re ready for a bit of dry land action, take your pick: play a round at the Indian Hills Golf Course, travel through time at the A.E. Backus Museum & Gallery with paintings of Fort Pierce native A.E. “Bean” Backus, or stroll through the Heathcote Botanical Gardens that boast the largest public display of tropical bonsais in the U.S.

Amenities

  • 272 slips
  • Two fueling stations
  • Diesel fuel in slip
  • Gasoline Octane-89/90 non-Ethanol
  • Water hook up
  • Ice
  • Fish cleaning station
  • Laundry
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Cable TV
  • Showers and restrooms
  • Two restaurants
  • Farmer’s market
  • Supply store/gift shop
  • Pet friendly

Contact:

Fort Pierce City Marina
1 Avenue A
Fort Pierce, FL 34950
(772) 464-1245
(800) 619-1780
fortpiercecitymarina.com

Nathalie Gouillou, Southern Exposure August 2015

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