Emerald Gulf Coast

Follow the Emerald Gulf Coast

Head west along the sparkling green water from Destin to Orange Beach for great fishing and fantastic seafood.

There are stretches along the Gulf of Mexico coastline where time seems to run on the whims of an eccentric generator. Along Florida’s Emerald Coast from Destin to Orange Beach, Alabama, the turquoise waters and sparkling beaches radiate a welcome stillness reminiscent of days long gone. As you walk the beaches, you leave footprints on the powdered-sugar sands that once were the tops of the Appalachian Mountains. The sand, made from pure-white quartz crystal, was transported from the mountains to the Gulf at the end of the last Ice Age.

The Gulf Intracoastal Waterway (GICW) lies inside the sandy barrier islands and crisscrosses a series of estuaries, swamps, captivating towns, and open waters for a good sail. Some of the best Gulf Coast sailing for smaller vessels is on Choctawhatchee Bay in the Florida Panhandle. There are three direct entrances to the GICW between Destin and Orange Beach, making offshore cruising less risky than in other sections of the Gulf.

Destin

Destin, once a tiny coastal hamlet on the bay’s southern shore, now calls itself “The World’s Luckiest Fishing Village” and is known for superb saltwater fishing. Due to quick access to the Gulf and the proximity of the famed 100 Fathom curve with its 600-foot depth, the opportunities are endless. 

Destin is home to many types of fishing: surf, pier, bay, deep-sea, and more. Each has its fans, and the catch depends on the season. Hook flounder, sheepshead, sea trout, and even tarpon inshore. Mackerel, cobia, amberjack, grouper, and red snapper lurk nearshore; wahoo, mahi-mahi, and tuna await in the deep. To get the real flavor of Destin’s 175-year history, and maybe a couple of fish tales, visit the Destin History & Fishing Museum, a little gem near the foot of the Destin Bridge.

North America’s largest private charter fishing fleet is docked at Destin Harbor. Some vessels hold up to 45 hopeful anglers; smaller boats accommodate a more private trip. Most charters include licenses, tackle, and bait. With more than 170 charter companies, FishingBooker might be the simplest way to find the most suitable.

Don’t care about catching, but fond of eating fish? Brotula’s Seafood House & Steamer is a rustic yet refined southern fish house specializing in local seafood and shellfish platters. Its name is borrowed from the tasty bearded brotula caught in local waters at depths of 350 feet. 

For a meatier meal in “New York Irish Pub” style, step into McGuire’s Irish Pub. If reading the menu isn’t entertainment enough, lively Irish musicians will get your feet tapping. Add a few bucks to the millions of dollar bills hanging on the walls left by visitors from around the world.

Slips to 85 feet are available at HarborWalk Marina in HarborWalk Village. A bustling entertainment/retail complex, the Village has live music, fireworks, and a variety of water sports rentals.

The southwest corner of Choctawhatchee Bay is anchored by laid-back Fort Walton Beach. Dock at the gated Fort Walton Yacht Basin on Santa Rosa Sound next door to The Shack, a historic seafood eatery.  

The area has two excellent museums. The Indian Temple Mound Museum in the heart of historic downtown exhibits 1,000 artifacts depicting 12,000 years of Native American occupation and impressive collections of prehistoric ceramics from European explorers, local pirates, and early settlers. The Air Force Armament Museum on Eglin Air Force Base is dedicated to military artifacts and memorabilia, including more than 29 different aircraft from the WWII era to the present. 

The Island Pier, jutting 1,262 feet into the Gulf on the west end of Okaloosa Island, is one of the best places to fish in the region. The fish are always biting, and there are spectacular views of dolphins, sea turtles, herons, and pelicans.

There are no entrances to the GICW from East Pass (Mile Marker 227.7 East of Harvey Lock (MM 227.7 EHL)) in Destin to Pensacola Bay (MM 179.7 EHL). 

For clear open water and peaceful beaches with few inhabitants, cruise the numerous islands in the waterway between Brooks Bridge in Fort Walton Beach and Navarre, where everyone embraces a lazy pace. 

Navarre

Navarre is a compact beach community with 12 miles of pristine-white shoreline and the longest fishing pier in Florida. Stroll 30 feet above the waterline along the pier’s 1,545-foot length for a wide-angle view of sand dunes rolling for miles in either direction.

For sport divers, Navarre Beach Marine Sanctuary has three artificial reefs, two in Santa Rosa Sound and one offshore. At Soundside, or Gulfside, expect to see colorful fish, sea turtles, rays, jellyfish, and octopuses.

It’s an easy cruise through Santa Rosa Sound to Gulf Breeze, yet another great fishing spot at the mouth of Pensacola Bay. Charter-seekers like Gulf Breeze Guide Service which, for 40 years, has specialized in fly and light tackle fishing around the area.

Above and below the horizon, there’s a lot to see around Pensacola Bay. The Blue Angels often thunder overhead during practice maneuvers. The Pensacola Lighthouse and Maritime Museum, listed on the National Register of Historic Places, has been named one of America’s Most Haunted Lighthouses. For divers, the world’s largest artificial reef, retired aircraft carrier USS Oriskany, lies 24 miles offshore.

Sabine Marina is a 64-slip marina located in Little Sabine Bay inside Pensacola Beach. Its entrance parallels the southwest side of the Pensacola Beach Bridge. There are a number
of marinas, including the full-service Pensacola Shipyard, located on the southwest side of Pensacola in the protected waters of Bayou Chico at GICW MM 183 EHL.

Continuing on, Big Lagoon is a favorite anchorage west of Pensacola Pass in the lee of Perdido Key. Good holding ground, a one-foot tidal range, and plenty of open water just 15 feet deep make dropping the hook fairly uncomplicated.

With Gulf Islands National Seashore and three Florida state parks in proximity, Perdido Key safeguards some of the beach’s most fragile and magnificent assets: wispy sea oats, critical dunes, and nesting birds and sea turtles. 

Orange Beach

Surrounded by water in all directions and in Alabama territory, charming Orange Beach is a boating and fishing wonderland nicknamed the “Red Snapper Capital of the World.” From the bayous to the reefs, and all the way out to the oil rigs, catches include several delicacies besides snapper.

Photo Credit: Eva Faircloth – Gulf Shore Orange Beach Tourism

Perdido Pass offers up incredible fishing where the Gulf and inshore waters meet. Common inshore catches are mackerel, redfish, and speckled trout. A crew of proven fishermen run Orange Beach Fishing Charters and Saltwater Fishing Guides providing private and shared fishing charters.

Orange Beach (MM 159 EHL) has freshly caught seafood eating options from weathered beach shacks to fine-dining. SanRoc Cay and The Wharf are large retail and restaurant complexes with extensive options. 

Orange Beach Marina, a full-service facility in a fully protected harbor off Terry Cove, can accommodate yachts up to 130 feet. About five minutes at idle from the Gulf, it offers easy access to the GICW. 

There are several places to explore nearby. Robinson Island, just north of Perdido Pass in Terry Cove, is a pleasant place to anchor and spend the day on the beach. Nearby Walker Island has a lovely lagoon and a long strip of white-sand beach. Cruise the calm water and private canals of Ono Island in Perdido Bay for a view of gorgeous homes and, perhaps, a stray dolphin or two.

The Emerald Coast is likely to keep you hanging out for a good amount of time, but when you do decide to hit it, the Gulf Islands National Seashore continues west as well as New Orleans and beyond. 

-by Ellen Honey

Eleuthera: The Friendly Island

Eleuthera: The Friendly Island

For insiders, Eleuthera is one of the most desirable destinations in the Bahamas. For some skippers, though, mentioning the name evokes a “where?” Part of the problem may be in the pronunciation. It’s not e-loot-ra. It’s uh-looo-ther-uh. 

However you pronounce it, Eleuthera is delightful. It’s 110 miles long, but barely a mile wide in a few places. With its companion, Harbour Island, it has great marinas and is around 50 miles from Nassau and less than 200 nautical miles from Florida.  

Let’s start with Harbour Island, known to locals as “Briland.” Dunmore Town is the oldest and most charming settlement in the Bahamas, and you’ll get your fill of quaint cottages with white picket fences. Don’t be surprised if everyone—young, old, and in-between—greet you with “How you today?” or “Good mornin’.” This should be called the friendly island.

 Dunmore Town is home to two great marinas, one at Romora Bay Resort and the other at Valentines Resort. Romora Bay can handle yachts up to 190 feet on floating docks and has free high-speed Wi-Fi, 24-hour security, a new reverse osmosis (RO) water system, an on-site concierge for provisioning, plus a pool and restaurants. Valentines can accommodate yachts up to 200 feet with fresh RO water, nighttime security, free Wi-Fi, 110/220v power up to 100 amps, fuel service, showers, and laundry.  

If you tucked into a marina, do not plan to eat aboard. My first stop is always Ma Ruby’s on Colebrooke Street for juicy cheeseburgers with a Kalik (or two).

Start your morning off right at Arthur’s Bakery on Crown Street with a lobster omelet, then stock up on jalapeño cheese bread (for grilled cheese sandwiches!), and grab a key lime pie for dessert later.  

For upscale dining, start at The Landing, an 1800s hotel on Bay Street, and indulge in its stone crab stack or coconut chicken curry. Another good choice is the Rock House, also on Bay Street, for linguine alla vongole (pasta, clams, mussels, garlic sauce) or the bisque of lobsters just hours from the sea bottom when in season. 

Rent an electric golf cart to cruise Dunmore and use it for a short hop to Pink Sands Resort on the other side of the island, where award-winning chef Dean Max offers up crispy blackened fish tacos and spicy coconut conch chowder for lunch. Then enjoy the extraordinary pink sands on the lovely beach.

Keep Going 

Back in Dunmore Town, stop at the Princess Street Gallery for a great souvenir: beautiful art from local artists. Fortified by food, there are a lot of sights to see on Eleuthera, so catch a ferry or move your boat.  

Davis Harbour Marina at the Cotton Bay Club on South Eleuthera offers the chance to chase bonefish with a fly rod in the morning and then big game fish offshore in the afternoon. The marina has 24 slips with nightly security, fuel, 30-50 amp power, RO water, provisioning, an on-site concierge, plus ice, laundry, and shower facilities. 

Cape Eleuthera Resort & Marina handles yachts up to 200 feet with a deep 12-foot entry and protective jetties to eliminate any wave action. Tucked between Exuma and Rock Sounds on South Eleuthera, it offers 48 slips with power up to 100 amp, water, and provisions.

Rent a car or jeep to drive the length of Eleuthera for exploring—you won’t regret it. At the northern tip is Preacher’s Cave, where early settlers took shelter after they were shipwrecked in 1648, and later turned it into a church where you can still see the hand-carved altar. The petroglyphs by Lucayan Indians are obviously from much farther back. 

The Glass Window Bridge is where you cross from North Eleuthera to the south island and, not so long ago, it did look like a window offering a view of the Atlantic Ocean in one direction and the Caribbean in the other. It’s been eroded, but it’s still pretty spectacular.

After the Glass Window, don’t worry about food because the newly reopened The Cove Eleuthera on the Caribbean side is a no-brainer. Chef Aadam Coetzee (who trained with Gordon Ramsay) presides over its Freedom Restaurant and Sushi Bar, which produces veggies from its own garden just yards away (with its own gardener!). Do NOT miss the Seafood Futomaru Noodle Alfredo where shrimp, clams, and mahi-mahi meet pasta in creamy alfredo sauce. 

The south end of the island offers Ocean Hole at Rock Sound, where you can jump into a blue hole surrounded by cliffs in mid-island. It’s said to be more than 600 feet deep and, once in, there are steps and ladders to get out. Divers love the change from ocean dives.

No matter how you pronounce Eleuthera, it’s well worth adding to your list of must-visits.

Getting There

A word about getting to Eleuthera. You’ll want to pass between Eleuthera and Spanish Wells through what is known (for good reason) as The Devil’s Backbone. It’s a shallow and jagged reef that has ripped out the bottom of many ships and more than a few yachts, so stop at Spanish Wells and pick up a pilot.  

A real character, A1 Brod Shad, has retired, but for a good replacement (if you like stories along with your piloting), try Bruno the Nauti Boy Pilot. Or you can hail (via VHF Channels 11 or 16) for Lil Woody, Hexton Pinder, or Bradley Newbold.  

-by Chris Caswell

Crossing to the Bahamas

Making the Crossing

Be Prepared before you sail to the Bahamas.

Traveling to the Bahamas by boat may seem intimidating with weather, fuel prices, and COVID restrictions, so take the extra steps to prepare before you point the bow east. They’ll be well worth it when you arrive at Customs and Immigration.

Three-day Window 

You and your crew need to present negative COVID-19 tests three days prior to your arrival in the Bahamas regardless of your vaccination status. You must also apply for a Bahamian health visa, which can be done online at travel.gov.bs. Make sure everyone aboard has a printed copy of their health visa and negative COVID test along with their passport before the boat leaves the dock. Keep in mind, the Bahamian government constantly updates its travel regulations, so double check that website for the latest protocols before you sail.

Inspect Your Boat

Before any long-range trip, you should rest assured knowing all major components of your boat are functioning. For a first-time boat owner, this can be a very stressful situation because the open ocean coupled with the Gulf Stream current can and will exploit any faults your boat may have and, possibly, your skills. Don’t forget, once you get far enough offshore, there’s no cell service, therefore, it’s imperative to travel with a VHF radio and a satellite communication device in the event of an emergency.

If everything on board checks out well, it’s time to prepare the boat for the crossing. The key is to pack light—only bring what you need to prevent weighing down the boat. Excess weight will negatively affect handling and decrease performance. Strategically plan what to bring because not all supplies are readily accessible in the Bahamas. Your fuel tank should be filled to the brim, especially when island hopping, because fuel isn’t available on every island.

Ideal Conditions

The difficult nature of planning a trip to the Bahamas months in advance is there’s no guarantee of fair weather. Calm seas and clear skies are ideal, but you know how weather can change instantly. 

Less-than-perfect conditions happen, and how you handle it comes from experience. A breeze below 10 knots is considered great conditions, especially if the sea state is mild, such as swells two to three feet or less. However, that’s not always the case, so if you feel you and the boat can handle a strong breeze and resulting chop, then the wind direction comes into play.

Between Florida and the Bahamas lies the Gulf Stream current, which flows in a northerly direction. The ideal wind direction then is a southerly because it’s blowing in the same direction as the current. On the flip side, if the wind and current are opposing, the sea state is steep and choppy, and the faster the wind, the rougher the waves. Believe me, it won’t be fun.

Despite what the weather forecast says, always be on the lookout for storms. Thunderstorms pose some serious risks through lightning and gusts of wind that can drastically increase wave heights. It’s a good idea to have a device on board to track storms, such as radar or even a weather app. Knowing how to read the cloud formations is also an advantage. Safety is of prime importance. 

Boat Trim is Key

Today, we’re seeing center consoles longer than 60 feet, but that doesn’t change the safety factor. Room aboard, maybe, but a comfortable ride is accomplished with the use of trim tabs. As you drop your trim tabs, hydrodynamics will force the bow down to slice through the waves rather than slamming and riding over the top. However, there’s a trade-off. By using trim tabs, you will reduce fuel efficiency and run the risk of taking waves over the bow. The key is to fine-tune the trim to reach the boat’s optimal performance.

Wave Your Flag

Once you enter Bahamian waters, you must fly a yellow quarantine flag which signifies that you’re entering the territory and you’ve yet to check in. Part of the prep work was to chart your crossing to make the most convenient port of entry. Only the captain is allowed off the boat to present the paperwork to Customs and Immigration; the crew has to stay on board. If not completed online, you’ll need to bring the paperwork back to the boat for the crew to fill out. 

Once the paperwork, passports, health visas, and negative COVID tests are accepted, the captain will purchase a cruising permit, which can also be bought online before your arrival. After checking in, switch your yellow quarantine flag to a Bahamas courtesy flag. Then you and your crew can explore the islands from the aft deck or on shore. With plenty to see and do, you might want to make time for both. 

-by Clay Cowart

Bungalows Key Largo

Divine Disconnection

Escape life’s everyday hassles at the luxurious Bungalows Key Largo.

Paradise awaits at Bungalows Key Largo, a secluded, all-inclusive resort set within a botanical garden edged by the ocean. This adults-only oasis faces Buttonwood Sound at Mile Marker 99 in Key Largo, the first and northernmost of the Florida Keys and home to tropical hardwoods, two state parks, a national park, and a portion of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. Just about an hour’s drive south of Miami along Overseas Highway, admire the views of the serene Gulf of Mexico on one side and the vast Atlantic Ocean on the other as you leave all your cares behind. Key Largo is on island time, and Bungalows Key Largo is your tropical escape. 

Situated on 12 acres, the boutique resort designed and owned by renowned hotelier Jerry Johnson offers 135 luxurious bungalows (31 with waterfront views) for couples to disconnect from the world and reconnect with each other. Every bungalow has a private, bougainvillea-laden veranda with alfresco soaking tub and garden shower, an indoor spa bathroom with rain shower, a private patio outfitted with two Adirondack chairs, and two cruiser bikes, which you can use to explore the expansive, white sand-and-palm-covered property. 

Key Largo’s temperature typically ranges between 71 degrees and 82 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. With such gorgeous weather, it is no wonder why most outdoor activities occur around the water. 

Without a doubt, the beach is spectacular. Listening to the waves crashing in the deep-blue ocean, feeling the warm water against your skin, and breathing in the fresh sea air would take any stress level from a 10 to a one. The Bungalows even provides lounge chairs, hammocks, and cabanas sprinkled along 1,000 feet of shoreline for the ultimate relaxing beachside experience. Bring your own sunglasses and sunscreen.

Fun on or off the Water

For the more adventurous, a large array of complimentary non-motorized aquatic equipment is available, including stand-up paddleboards, kayaks, water trikes, and snorkeling gear. Find out why Key Largo is known as the Diving Capital of the World: Spend a day exploring nature below the surface at the U.S.’s first undersea park, John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, and snorkel two extraordinary places: Dry Rocks, home of the Christ of the Abyss, and Molasses Reef. 

Don’t want to get wet? Take a Happy Hour cruise aboard Lady B, the resort’s 56-foot sailing catamaran, through Florida Bay to watch the unrivaled, magical Florida sunset. Have a glass of champagne and a shrimp cocktail while the sea breeze blows through your hair. Be on the lookout for a dolphin or two—they often pop up during the scenic ride to wave hello.

Another option is to set sail on one of two the floating tiki boats, the S.S. Margarita and S.S. Rum Runner. Picture a tiki bar on the water, complete with your own mixologist. Cruise around the beautiful bay while you sit at the bar and indulge in another round of drinks. 

Key Largo also has a multitude of onshore attractions including nature trails and a rehabilitation center for wild birds. The island is flanked by Everglades National Park to the west, a premier destination for kayakers and wildlife enthusiasts, and the U.S.’s only living coral barrier reef to the east. Reserve one of the Bungalows’ private boat charters on an Axopar or a WorldCat power catamaran for a customized full-day or half-day voyage to explore some of these sites.

Indulgences

When it’s time to soothe your soul, unwind in the Zen Garden Spa. Black bamboo-lined walkways lead guests to five private outdoor cabanas and the bayside waterfront treatment tiki, where massages, facials, and other treatments refresh and rejuvenate your mind and body.

The spa is also home to a eucalyptus steam room, Himalayan salt therapy treatment room, and an indoor relaxation area. But the center of attention is the large Buddha statue. You’ll find several of them throughout the property. Fun fact: The Buddha statue that looks like a woman sleeping is named “Lady Night Night.” She denotes restfulness in a zen-like fashion, messaging “relax” as you enter the resort.

The Bungalows also has several delectable dining options. Eat and drink to your heart’s content—there are no limits to this culinary extravaganza. Kick back at one of the two pools or Jacuzzis with a few tropical drinks and snacks from the Sunset Tiki Bar. Enjoy breakfast, lunch, or dinner overlooking the ocean at Fish Tales, a casual eatery that serves Mediterranean-inspired selections blended with fresh local specialties. Tempt your taste buds with flavorful Mexican fare and a margarita at beachside Sea Señor. Indulge in a top-shelf cocktail at Hemingway Bar before dinner at Bogie and Bacall’s, which features an elegant multi-course menu and a sommelier-curated wine list for a true fine-dining experience. Reservations are required at this upscale restaurant.

Of course, some people don’t want to think about exercising when they are on vacation because as we all know, calories don’t count. But for those who insist on keeping up their wellness regimen, the open-air fitness center features Peloton bikes, rowing machines, treadmills, ellipticals, and free weights. Early risers will enjoy the daily sunrise yoga sessions that take place on Tranquility Beach.

Bungalows Key Largo provides a divine disconnection from everyday life with exceptional amenities, exclusive experiences, and endless sunshine. Adults looking for a luxurious Florida getaway will find a relaxing place to reconnect at this intimate resort. bungalowskeylargo.com 

-by Bonnie Schultz

Bitter End Yacht Club adds a new Beach Bar

New Beach Bar for the BEYC

Grab yourself a beer on tap, red or white wine by the glass, or a craft cocktail like the Bitter End 2.0 (gin, peach schnapps, ruby grapefruit juice, soda, and dark rum) while shooting the breeze about sailing at the Bitter End Yacht Club’s (BEYC) newest beach bar, Reef Sampler. 

Reef Sampler, a 34-foot hull purchased in the 1960s from fiberglass lobster boat pioneer Webber’s Cove Boatyard in Maine, and fully outfitted at Essex Boat Works in Connecticut, lived a long life as the BEYC’s marine workhorse. In the mid-1970s, she hauled boatloads of construction materials as the nautical outpost expanded.

She wasn’t all work and no play. Reef Sampler ferried staff and guests alike to Anegada for diving in Horseshoe Reef, fishing at the North Drop, and picnicking at then-uninhabited Necker Island. In 2017, she was tied to the BEYC’s strongest mooring when Hurricane Irma struck. But, when the sun came out, she was gone—lost at sea.

A year later, Reef Sampler was found when the UK Hydrographic Office conducted its first BVI survey since 1926. The BVI’s Sunchaser Scuba team refloated her, and she waited for her next incarnation. 

“After the hurricane, Mother Nature brought us an expansive beach adjacent to the marina which did not exist before. Reef Sampler now sits right on Marina Beach, a short walk to The Quarterdeck Marina and up a set of stairs to the Village Plaza,” says Kerri Quinn Jaffe, BEYC’s chief marketing officer. “Our cocktail program is a mainstay after a day on the water. Signature drinks served at the Reef Sampler are Dark ‘n’ Stormies and Painkillers (of course), and some of the newer favorites are the Mezcal Rosemary Negroni and the Bitter End 2.0.”

Reef Sampler’s eats include bar bites like conch fritters, North Sound Fish Dippers with sriracha mayonnaise, and crispy coconut chips with sea salt. beyc.com

-by Carol Bareuther

Dive into the Bahamas

Dive into the Bahamas

Explore a stunning world beneath the turquoise waters.

There are so many diving opportunities around the 700 islands that make up the Bahamas, it would take weeks for the most experienced divers to explore. Fortunately, you don’t have to cram it all in one trip.

Divers of all skill levels, even snorkelers, will enjoy the warm, turquoise waters that surround reefs, caves, and shipwrecks. From shallow dives for spearfishing to freediving that challenges divers to see how deep they can go holding one breath, water temperatures are very comfortable year-round; in the winter, temps rarely dip below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The temperature will drop the deeper you go, so some divers prefer a 5mm exposure suit during the winter while wearing a 1mm suit in the summer.

Whether you’re new to diving or want to advance your skills, diving professionals and companies are located throughout the islands to help you make the most out of your diving experience.

Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas

Stuart Cove’s Dive Bahamas is a well-known dive center on the southwest side of New Providence Island. As a PADI five-star facility, it offers a full range of education programs, equipment selection, and diving excursions. 

“We have reefs and walls that start at 40 feet and drop to 1,000 feet,” says Stuart Cove, whose background includes being a stunt/safety diver on the James Bond film For Your Eyes Only and as underwater coordinator on another Bond film, Never Say Never Again. Stuart Cove’s Aqua Adventures in Nassau consists of Dive Bahamas, Snorkel Bahamas, and SUB Bahamas.

“There is an abundance of life including reef sharks, groupers, jacks, eagle rays, and stingrays, and multiple wrecks are also accessible,” he adds. “The Bahamian government has done an excellent job with conservation on the island as there are several marine parks established to help preserve the reef and the underwater life.”

The joys of diving in New Providence are obvious to any diver due to the water temperature and spectacular visibility. The dive sites are easily accessible and only several minutes from the dock. stuartcove.com

Neal Watson’s Bimini Scuba Center 

Neil Watson Jr., a certified SCUBA diving instructor, runs the Bimini Scuba Center located at the Bimini Big Game Club Resort & Marina. The facility offers different packages, including a dive with several shark species.

The winter months are the best time to interact with these ocean predators, such as great hammerheads, nurse sharks, and bull sharks. Watson and his crew bait the water to draw them in, using special measures to ensure a safe interaction for the divers. When diving with sharks, it is very important to wear neutral colors. Sharks can see contrast well, so a bright color in murky water will be visible to them.

“Bimini is located on the edge of the Gulf Stream and currents can be strong,” says Watson. “Currents are good as they regulate nutrients and water temperature which keep the ecosystem healthy.” 

Bimini also offers wrecks, walls, bright corals, and dolphin swims. SCUBA diving trips to Tiger Beach on West End, Grand Bahama, are available in season as well. Two-night to weeklong dive and hotel packages are available. biminiscubacenter.com

Bahamas Underground 

Bahamas Underground specializes in cave and technical diving and offers training and guided tours. Based in Marsh Harbor, Abaco, co-owner and operator Brian Kakuk, who has more than 30 years of diving experience and is a former U.S. Navy Diver with more than 4,000 exploration dives, focuses on exploring the Crystal Caves off Abaco. 

His preferred method for cave exploration is to use a standard side-mounted open circuit configuration, a growing setup for cave divers. Accident analysis is a priority during training sessions with a focus on gas supply and a reliable guideline to the surface. All divers visiting the caves are required to have their own specialized equipment, a nitrox certification, and a minimum of 100 dives. 

“Cave diving is hazardous but very rewarding,” says Kakuk. “I have dived all over the world, and these are the most decorative caves on the planet.”

He is so passionate about what these caves have to offer that he founded the Bahamas Caves Research Foundation, where he works with the Bahamian government to do further cave research.

Cristina Zenato 

Learning how to dive in the Bahamas more than 25 years ago, Cristina Zenato is a professional worldwide SCUBA diver and shark behaviorist as well as an instructor for handling sharks, technical and cave diving, and instructor ratings. She is based in Freeport and takes divers on excursions to interact with reef sharks. 

“The trips involve a full understanding of diving with the animals to include safety of the guests, safety of the staff, and safety of the sharks,” she says.

Zenato works with the Bahamian government and has helped create a full shark sanctuary for the animals in the area. “My guided dives involve one-on-one interactions with the animal, so it becomes a very personal experience for the diver, who may then decide to become a shark ambassador,” she says.

Zenato is able to identify individual sharks from specific features on their bodies (such as marks or a bent dorsal fin). Because she has spent so much time in the water with these sharks, this type of guided interaction will make this experience memorable. cristinazenato.com

Ocean Fox Dive Center 

Some of the best SCUBA diving in the Bahamas is off the island of Eleuthera, and Chad Sinden, a PADI award-winning instructor with more than 7,000 dives and owner of Ocean Fox Dive Center at Cape Eleuthera Resort & Marina can guide you to the perfect spot. The dive sites are all as close as 5-10 minutes from the dock and range from shallow reefs to a wall drop that begins at 60 feet and descends to 2,000 feet.

Local experienced diver Forrest Simon describes the coral as pristine because of the nutrient-rich water being brought in by the currents. The shark population is healthy for this reason and why guided shark diving is popular. 

“The wind direction is generally from the east, and the dive sites are located on the leeward side of the island, which makes conditions mostly calm and ideal for diving,” say Simon. “The current can be an issue sometimes, so it is important to be aware of conditions before beginning a dive.” oceanfoxdive.com

Freediving – Vertical Blue 

Anyone interested in freediving might know acclaimed free diver William Trubridge, the world’s deepest-diving man, having dived unaided on a single breath to a depth of 334 feet. He is also the founder of Vertical Blue, the most prestigious freediving event in the world held annually at Dean’s Blue Hole on Long Island in the Bahamas.

“Sixty world records have been achieved at this event,” says Trubridge. “It is the only place in the world where you can dive in such bright blue and clear water. For freediving, it is ideal due to the conditions—no currents, no swell, and shelter from the wind. The experience can be described as diving in a two hundred-meter-deep swimming pool, allowing the free diver to completely focus on performance.” 

Trubridge offers freediving courses for those wanting to see how deep they can go on one breath. williamtrubridge.com

Spearfishing

When spearfishing in the Bahamas, one of the main concerns is sharks. The scent of blood and the thrashing vibration from a speared fish attracts them. When you shoot a fish, it is crucial to get it back to the boat as quickly as possible and hold the speared fish clear from the water until you have reached the boat.

Always dive with a buddy when spearfishing. All trained freedivers know the importance of diving with a partner to avoid hypoxia complications that can be fatal if diving alone. Freediving is strenuous and when spearing, the diver can focus more on the catch than their own safety.

The waters in the Bahamas offer a rich variety of harvests that include lobster, grouper, snapper, and hogfish. Avoid eating large fish like barracuda which can result in ciguatera poisoning from contaminated fish.

Be aware of the laws when capturing fish, such as seasons permitted, size of catch, and numbers allowed. Go to bahamas.gov.bs for information about permits and regulations. Only a Hawaiian sling or pole spear is allowed when spearing in the Bahamas, and all dives to harvest must be breath hold only.

Have Fun!

There are a number of dive shops throughout the Bahamas, so when you’re ready to explore a new area below the surface, consult a local dive professional to help you enjoy the wealth of underwater life safely. 

-by Elisa Buller

Harbour Island, Bahamas

A World of its Own

The colors of Harbour Island

As the crow flies, 222 miles east of Fort Lauderdale, Florida, lies one of the most enchanting communities found in the Bahamas: Harbour Island. Just one-and-a-half miles north of Eleuthera, the island is barely a speck on the chart. Three-and-a-half miles long and only one-and-a-half miles wide, Harbour Island is home to the most spectacular three-mile-long, pink sand beach found anywhere on the planet. 

Featured in all the renown travel magazines and television shows, and referred to often as “the Nantucket of the Caribbean,” the island dates back to the 1700s. The old wooden, pristine houses emulate the architecture of the Carolinas, from where the early Loyalist settlers originated, their dates proudly displayed on doors and gates.

A must for any cruiser landing in Harbour Island is to walk the town’s old streets. People here are really friendly and willing to offer information or to help find your way. Unassuming shops are worth investigating for local produce—those bananas may not look as pretty, but I bet you’ve never had one taste so sweet. Narrow streets adorned with cascading colors of bougainvillea are traversed by golf cart as the major form of transport.

The Island’s Approach

Harbour Island (spelled the British way) was one of the original settlements of the archipelago. Its waters became too shallow on the sheltered western shore and eventually lost its “natural harbour” title to deeper New Providence years later.

Cruisers have several choices of approach to the island. Departing the Florida coast, boaters head eastward to clear Bahamas Customs at the closest Port of Entry, namely Bimini, Cat Cay, and Great Harbour Cay in the Berry Islands, or Freeport, Grand Bahama, for the more northerly approaching boaters.

The Bahamas, believed to have originated from the Spanish bajamar, meaning “shallow water,” require careful navigation. The deep indigo waters to the north of Eleuthera indicate depths between 3,000 and 10,000 feet and offer safe passage for deep-draft yachts, which is limited quickly when heading inside to Harbour Island, primarily to yachts 180 feet in length with a 10-foot draft.

The passage begins in neighboring Spanish Wells, where captains unfamiliar with the approach can hire a knowledgeable pilot to guide them through The Devil’s Backbone, a shallow, very intimidating reef that demands sailors to hug the shoreline, past Preachers Cave, turning along Tay Bay Beach, and into the bay protected by barrier islands, including Harbour Island, and that’s on a calm day. 

The harbor at Dunmore Town becomes visible as one rounds the eastern point of Eleuthera where three marinas offer great dockage and all the necessary facilities, such as water, electric, and pump-outs: the Romora Bay Resort and Marina, Valentines Resort and Marina, and the soon-to-be-completed Briland Club Marina. The new Briland Club boasts massive generators that supply enough voltage to their docks so running generators while docked isn’t necessary. Romora Bay Marina, as with Valentines, can host as many as 50 yachts up to 200 feet long. At both ends of Harbour Island there are anchorages to throw the hook; however, the seabed only allows about a 10-foot draft.

Another World

Along the downtown waterfront, aptly named Bay Street, a row of colorful cottages beg to be photographed. They’re always immaculately painted, stand among impressive coconut palms, and are complete with picture-perfect picket fences. Exploring on foot is really rewarding. Pique your curiosity walking down side streets to find hidden treasures, see a golf cart brimming with local dogs being delivered home after a communal walk, or observe grandma with her grandkids on Sunday superbly dressed walking the narrow streets on the way to church. 

Bahamian birding here is a wonderful occupation for those patient enough to explore the coastline. A row of sleeping greater yellowlegs, elegant great egrets perching on the old boats in the harbor, and an occasional green heron skulking through a mass of old conch shells hunting his breakfast provide some really wonderful frames for the photographer. 

Walk slowly along the shallow waters and expose fairly small yellow stingrays gliding up pilings. Large southern stingrays grace the ocean floor, partially covered with powder sand to disguise their whereabouts, occasionally accompanied by the harmless nurse shark drifting effortlessly through the crystal-clear waters.

Early mornings we walk the docks, steaming fresh coffee in hand, and spot juvenile green turtles skimming the surface, taking an occasional breath to then dive to the grass beds below. A yellow-crowned night heron stands absolutely motionless on the rocks waiting for its prey to venture close enough. Laughing gulls provide the soundtrack of the island together with a competing crowing rooster while mockingbirds fill the streets with song. 

We never miss the spectacular sunsets for which Harbour Island is famous. A welcome tradition is for visitors and locals to meet on the western side of the island for an ice-cold local beer and marvel at the collection of creatures mixing together on the low tide shoreline. In one scene, puppies, cats, chickens, and water birds are all busy taking no notice of each other. A low ebb offers a fun walk at the far end of Bay Street and across the vast sand flats for a selfie by the old dead tree, used for many a magazine modeling shoot.

Walking through the enchanting town or even the mile across the island, you’ll find amazing restaurants serving local fare. Bring a good appetite to Runaway Hill or The Dunmore with impressive menus that feature a variety of meats and seafood to delight any palate. Don’t miss The Landing for a decadent breakfast, like Ricotta Hotcakes with honeycomb butter and banana. 

Next to Valentines is a wonderful coffee shop called Cocoa’s, a worthwhile stop for a more casual breakfast or an afternoon treat from hiking the island. Summer months are hot in Harbour Island and iced coffee is a welcome refreshment. We would be remiss not mentioning the fabulous fresh conch salad made to order right in front of you by Marty, better known as “King Conch,” located on the waterfront near the Government Dock.

Waters around Harbour Island are pristine, famous for deep sea fishing on the “outside” where all the big game fish run during their respective migrations through the archipelago. During their seasons, fresh catch of the day are plentiful in all the local restaurants. Grouper, hog snapper, and mahi-mahi are always popular. 

So Much to Do

Horseback ride on the beach or fly-fish for the elusive bonefish. Coral reefs set in a crystal-clear ocean are an amazing treat for the avid snorkeler or scuba diver with the best locations found on the ocean side of the island. Here, the Atlantic provides indescribably blue water to swim in and coral reefs are in excellent condition. The fish life is teeming. Valentines Marina and Resort offer Scuba instruction, a dive shop, and a daily diving trip for both the novice and expert. 

Those wanting nights ashore will find wonderful lodging at several island hotels, including the long-established classics like the Pink Sands Resort, the Coral Sands, The Dunmore, or Runaway Hill Inn. 

We pulled up to a real treat at the fabulous Romora Bay Resort. A full-service marina with 50 slips, it boasts luxury cottages, fine dining, and all the activities one could ask for, including live music three times a week. Graciously hosted by Partner/General Manager Joe Dargavage and his wonderful staff, the Harbour Island experience was one we’ll never forget and, without question, begs repetition. 

-by Capt. Paul Harding

Planning Your Next Vacation

Vacation Vibes

Follow these tips to plan a fun and hassle-free getaway.

Sweaters and scarves are packed away while pools are uncovered and boats are readied for warm days spent on the water. And, for many families, the ever-important summer vacation looms large.

Luckily, we have some great advice for how to plan the perfect summer trip for you and your family. So whether your choice of vacation is packed full of adventure and adrenaline or better spent lounging on the sand with a cold drink and good book in hand, these tips will help you make the most of your precious time away from those endless Zoom meetings.

Choose Your Vacation Mode

The first question to ask yourself and your family is, “What do we want to get out of this vacation?” Do you want the hustle and bustle of a big city or the quiet relaxation of the countryside? Are adventure sports on the agenda or is a leisurely afternoon spent floating in the pool more the order of the day? What you want to do is almost more important than where you go—Jefferson’s Monticello or the Smithsonian National Museum of American History might be very interesting, but if the kids just want to play in the sand all day, you can rest assured no one is going to be happy.

Planes, Trains, Automobiles, and Boats

Once you’ve decided generally what you hope to do on your trip, think about how you want to get there before you settle on a spot. If Mom doesn’t do well with flying, then perhaps a cross-country flight is off the table. Consider how much time you have as well—if you only have one week off, you probably don’t want to spend two of those days driving to and from your destination. If a road trip seems the best choice, think about how long you and your family realistically (and sanely) can be in the car and then create a big circle on a map encompassing everything within a two-, three-, or four-hour radius of home. If you do plan on flying, set an alert with Google Flights to track ticket prices and snag them when they seem to be at their lowest. Keep in mind that flights are often most expensive at the beginning and tail ends of the weeks when both leisure and business travelers take to the skies. Consider a Tuesday or Wednesday departure to shave some precious dollars off that fare. 

On the Water

Planning a boat trip is a whole other oyster to shuck. If you already own your own boat, then you’ve likely got the planning process down pat. But if you’re hoping to rent anything from a center console for days spent fishing or a bareboat charter for the whole family, you’ll need a slightly more detailed itinerary.

The first thing to do is determine your comfort level when it comes to boating (maybe don’t jump into chartering that 54-foot Beneteau if you’ve never sailed before), and then spend a fair amount of time researching rental and charter companies. Check the reviews online, and don’t be afraid to ask questions of the company. Research what sort of licenses you’ll need, and if you’ll be doing a liveaboard vacation, consult the myriad online resources for things like provisioning lists, suggested itineraries, marina recommendations, and more.

Suffice to say, such a vacation takes a bit more work, both beforehand and during, but with the right amount of careful planning, these trips can create memories that will last your family a lifetime.

Location, Location, Location

Now it’s finally time to settle on where you want to go. You can certainly start with the destination, especially if it’s a spot your family likes to return to again and again, and work backward from there, but whichever way you attack the plan, picking the location is often the best part. Involve the whole family in the decision, if possible. Make it even more fun by having everyone write down places on scraps of paper and pulling from a hat or teach the kids a lesson in democracy by holding a vote (obviously, parents get to be the tiebreaker). Consider some important details about the destination when choosing, like average weather during the time you want to travel, cost of activities once you arrive, and availability of nearby amenities. A remote mountain cabin might be just what the doctor ordered, but it may also mean stocking up ahead of time if the closest supermarket is an hour away. 

Another thing to keep in mind is the popularity of your destination. If you and your family are seeking a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, then perhaps a packed beach or crowded theme park might not be the best bet. Consider lesser-known destinations that offer the same amenities as top-tier spots—Savannah, Georgia, might be a good option over Charleston, South Carolina, or Boone, North Carolina, instead of the more popular (and more visited) nearby mountain city of Asheville. What you do when you get there is almost as important, if not more so, than the destination itself, so make sure whatever location you settle on is able to provide the right vacation vibes you’re seeking.

Take Care of the Details 

The normal precautions and pre-planning you may have done for a getaway in the “before times” still apply with a few more things to note. Be sure to take care of everyday pre-trip details like notifying credit card companies that you’ll be traveling, making sure you’ve stocked up on prescription medication (and a roadside emergency/first aid kit if taking a road trip), and stopping your mail with the USPS’s easy online request tool.

However, given the uncertainty with the global pandemic, you’ll want to take some additional planning steps. As airlines struggle with staffing levels, flights are being rescheduled and canceled more than ever, especially during busy travel seasons, so anticipate any extra costs of having to rebook flights or possibly stay at your destination longer than planned.

If you purchase travel insurance (and you should), make sure that the policy covers COVID-related costs like having to cancel if you or a family member test positive, or if you need to isolate at a hotel while on vacation. Be sure to research your destination’s COVID policies, like mask mandates and vaccine requirements. Upload photos of your family’s vaccination cards to your mobile device, and if you need to test before arrival, during your trip, or before departure, make sure you have that all scheduled.

A few extra moments spent taking care of these details before you leave can save you a massive headache (and potentially hundreds if not thousands of dollars) later.

Ready, Set, Go!

By now you’ve done all the planning and the prep, and all that’s left is the anticipation. Make it fun for the whole family with a weekly reveal of tiny clues about the destination for the kids to guess where they’ll be going or a countdown calendar of the days left until vacation. If you’ve followed these tips for planning, then you’ve laid the groundwork for a relaxing, fun, and carefree holiday. We’re in the third year of a global pandemic, so don’t we all deserve a little stress-free time away? Pack those bags, hit the road (or water), and happy travels! 

-by Matt Lardie

Lovango Resort + Beach Club Opens in the USVI

Stay overnight or come for the day. The USVI’s latest cay-side vacation spot, the Lovango Resort + Beach Club, recently opened for guests seeking a relaxing getaway at an easy-to-reach Caribbean destination. Located on a 118-acre private island 10 minutes by ferry north of Cruz Bay, St. John, lodging includes a three-bedroom villa with pool and resort amenities, luxury treehouses that sleep a family of four, and glamping tents complete with air conditioning, a private deck, and modern bathroom. All accommodations boast spectacular views of either the Atlantic Ocean or Caribbean Sea. Lovango’s restaurant and beach club are open to visitors arriving by ferry from St. Thomas or St. John or by private yacht.

Enjoy cabana-side food and drink service while lounging by the 70-foot infinity pool. Some 20 mooring balls and a launch that travels between moorings and the island’s main dock make it easy to get ashore to sup, sun, swim, or shop. Stop by Lovango’s Village with six boutiques selling everything from resortwear and accessories to beauty items and books. Don’t worry about the details—the resort’s concierge service will coordinate all transportation, dining reservations, activities, and excursions for guests.

Lovango Resort + Beach Club is open seasonally from mid-December until the end of July. The Snider family, who own the resort, also operate two properties in Massachusetts: the Winnetu Oceanside Resort on Martha’s Vineyard and the Nantucket Hotel & Resort on Nantucket. lovangovi.com

Cruising the Texas Coast

Cajun Coastline

Make your way down the Texas ICW from Kemah to Corpus Christi

The Texas coastline journeys in a gentle new moon arc from the Cajun flavor of Port Arthur on Sabine Pass to the tropical feel of Port Isabel on the Rio Grande. It’s a working coastline where shrimpers, oil riggers, and barge captains compete for territory on the water, while seaside communities and entire ecosystems struggle for survival against devastating hurricanes and a rapidly changing climate. 

Pleasure boats share the Texas Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) with heavy commercial traffic. Vessels traveling the waterway handle 90 million tons of freight annually, and Texas ports are key shipping hubs for North America. Many of the numerous overhead cables crossing the ICW carry high voltage; take extra caution in threatening weather. In the 2020 count, 15 passes link the Gulf to the ICW and sheltered water, but many are extremely shallow and benefit from local knowledge. Don’t hesitate to ask. Coastal residents are naturally friendly and helpful to visitors.

Wind in My Face

For years a drab, sprawling oil town, Houston has evolved into the “Capital of Southern Cool” with a city center well worth a long weekend visit. The 35 miles of Bay Area Houston coastline is lined with varied attractions including the San Jacinto Museum of History, NASA’s Johnson Space Center, the Butler Longhorn Museum, and the Armand Bayou Nature Center, one of the country’s largest urban wilderness preserves. 

The region’s sailing hub and home to one of the largest sailing fleets in the U.S. are the waters around Kemah, from the Karankawa Indian word meaning “wind in my face,” and neighboring Clear Lake which has the most populated boating waters in Texas. Beware, the interior can be shallow for a larger vessel. 

Kemah Boardwalk is a 60-acre entertainment complex alive with waterfront restaurants, amusement rides, summer concerts, and Salsa Sunday dance lessons. Aside from daily events, every holiday has a festival. The most popular is Yachty Gras when boats festooned with lights and regalia parade through the Kemah-Seabrook channel.

The western shoreline from Clear Lake to Galveston Bay is lined with marinas providing ample transient dockage. Seabrook Marina & Shipyard has more than 650 slips, including multihull and catamaran vessels, to 125 feet. Its repair facility can handle boats to 80 feet. Kemah Boardwalk Marina, located bay side of the south-end base of the Kemah-Seabrook Bridge, has 414 deepwater, floating dock slips with wide finger piers.

Out on the Barrier Islands

“The Republic of Galveston,” as locals call it, a somewhat worse for wear but still beguiling Southern city, reflects the influence of its earlier inhabitants: Native American, Spanish, French, pirates and outlaws, plunderers and profiteers.

The local trolley passes elegant Victorian-style buildings housing a fascinating selection of art galleries, restaurants, and museums on its journey to the Strand Historic District, home to The Grand 1894 Opera House, Pier 21 entertainment area, and the 1877 Tall Ship Elissa. The Grand 1894 Opera House, survivor of multiple hurricanes and two pandemics, is a historic venue beloved by its performers. 

Local favorite Sunflower Bakery & Cafe serves brunch daily until 5PM (closed on Tuesdays). Head to Little Daddy’s Gumbo Bar for soul-warming comfort food, burgers, and po’ boys. For a Texas-inspired, button-popping experience, order the Ultimate Naughty Nacho (waffle chips, four scoops, four toppings, whipped cream, cherries, and nuts) at Hey Mikey’s Ice Cream.

More than half the coastline between Galveston and Corpus Christi is protected by low-lying barrier islands which create large bays and lagoons for safe sailing. South Texas is never short on wind; it blows more than 300 days a year from the southeast off the Gulf. If it’s coming from any other direction, experienced sailors advise staying inside.

The Wild Side

The ICW passes three national wildlife preserves and several small communities, each with a distinct personality. No frills here; just balmy breezes, boat-to-fork seafood, and repeated opportunities to experience nature or to hit the beach, the local shops, or the fishing grounds.

Matagorda Bay is scattered with fishing towns like Port O’Connor, a virtually undiscovered angler’s heaven. In Palacios, the “Shrimp Capital of Texas,” recreational boaters share the harbor with Texas’ largest fishing fleet along with nearly 200 shrimp trawlers, one of the biggest concentrations in the country. 

For a peaceful weekday getaway where seagulls are the major source of conversation, try 26-mile Matagorda Beach near the mouth of the Colorado River. The beach has minimal services but is home to a more than 1,330-acre nature park. Matagorda Harbor, at MM 440, has slips for boats to 100 feet, fuel, bait, and a restaurant.

Along the more than 40-nautical mile stretch from Port O’Connor to Rockport, cruisers are often joined by pelicans and dolphins. In Aransas Bay, the waterway passes Aransas National Wildlife Refuge which provides nesting grounds for Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles and foraging habitat for piping plovers. North America’s tallest birds, five-foot whooping cranes, winter over here. Unbothered by cruising boats, many of these gentle giants can be seen from the ICW.

Explore Aransas Bay

Rockport straddles a peninsula between Copano Bay and Aransas Bay and is sheltered from the Gulf by San Jose Island. The area’s unique charm has spawned one of the best small art towns in America, and Rockport Center for the Arts hosts an annual Art Festival on Aransas Bay.

Rebuilding is nearly complete after the devastation of Hurricane Harvey in 2017. In
the historic town center close to the famously clean beach, Winery on the Bay turns hurricanes into spirits with its 2017 Hurricane Harvey Rosé. Next door, the Dog’gone Brewery offers a variety of canine-themed microbrews. For a taste of the East Coast in the South, stop by 495 Chesapeake Eats for wood-fired steak and seafood, plus house signature dishes like Maryland fried chicken, blue crab dip, and soups.

Cove Harbor Yacht Club & Boathouse Resort is a full-service marina with more than 180 slips, gas, and diesel. It’s a short walk to waterside Paradise Key Seafood Bar & Grill.

Aransas Pass is a small paradise where the fish are always biting. Across Aransas Bay on the far northern end of Mustang Island is the town of Port Aransas, one of the Gulf’s most popular tourist destinations. Fresh culinary treats and unique coastal treasures fill Port A’s restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries.

The piers, jetties, and sandbars along Mustang Island’s beaches create perfect breaking waves for amateur surfers. Horace Caldwell Pier is a popular surfing spot, but if you prefer riding a horse instead of a board, galloping along the shore is one the best ways to experience the Texas beaches.

Formal competitions like Texas SandFest and the annual Harvest Moon Regatta draw international competitors and spectators. The 150-nautical mile course from Galveston to Port Aransas is North America’s largest port-to-port event. Held in October during the Gulf’s best sailing weather, the sail takes 20 to 25 hours in a fair breeze.

Destination Corpus Christi

The coastline becomes southbound at Corpus Christi. Although a sizable city, Corpus Christi has retained the flavor of a smaller town. Dependable winds make it a great location to host a number of international sailing championships. Every Wednesday evening, locals compete in races starting at the Lawrence Street T-Head.

Corpus Christi Marina’s 560 wet slips and fuel dock are centrally located to multiple attractions. Must-see stops include the Texas State Aquarium, South Texas Music Walk of Fame, Texas Surf Museum, and the Mirador de la Flor monument which honors the tragically short life of Selena, the famous “Queen of Tejano Music.” Rockit’s Whiskey Bar & Saloon, Cassidy’s Irish Pub, and the Czech-Mex Bakery & Cafe are all within a few blocks.

Gulfside, Padre Island National Seashore—the world’s longest stretch of undeveloped barrier island—separates the Gulf from the Laguna Madre, one of a few hypersaline lagoons on earth. The park encompasses about 70 miles of coastline, dunes, prairies, and wind tidal flats teeming with life. It is a nesting ground for Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles and more than 380 bird species. The park is not accessible to pleasure craft, but park tours are arranged in Corpus Christi. 

To the End

It’s 134 nautical miles south to the end of ICW. About halfway, the Mansfield Cut provides deepwater access between the Gulf and the ICW at Port Mansfield, a small fishing hub with slips, fuel, and restaurants. Sweet Gregory P’s Smokehouse Grill serves breakfast before dawn, barbecue until it runs out, and homemade pies or cobbler to indulge a sweet tooth.

Although the ICW officially ends at the Port of Brownsville, the entrance is primarily for commercial traffic. The last stops for cruisers are Port Isabel and South Padre Island whose only similarity is geographic. Dock at Sea Ranch Marina 1 on Padre or sister facility Sea Ranch Marina 2 at Port Isabel.

Historic Port Isabel is a fisherman’s launch pad to the Laguna Madre and some of the best flats fishing on the coast. The only fishable population of snook in the United States outside of Florida resides in the Lower Laguna, as do mangrove snapper, gag grouper, and Spanish mackerel. Anglers frequent Brazos Santiago Pass and the Gulf for tarpon, kingfish, bonito, tuna, red snapper, wahoo, and a variety of billfish. 

South Padre is a resort community with numerous high-rise hotels, nightclubs, and souvenir shops, and in March, thousands of spring-breakers. Most of the restaurants, local shops, and attractions are found along Padre Boulevard. Clayton’s, Texas’ biggest beach bar, holds up to 5,000 people and serves drinks like Turbo daiquiris. One and done!

The Texas coastline isn’t laden with lavish waterside resorts with sugar-sand beaches and the foo-foo fashions found in other coastal states. But it does have warm, welcoming residents fiercely proud of their heritage, unhurried beach towns, fabulous fishing, unspoiled wildlife preserves, delicious seafood and, occasionally, a character or two as colorful as its sunsets. 

– by Ellen Honey

Cruising on Florida’s Gulf Coast

Cultural Cruising on Florida’s Gulf Coast

Stroll the waterfronts of Sarasota, Tampa, and St. Petersburg for some lively entertainment.

You’ve seen this on nautical charts when you’re cruising Florida’s Gulf Coast: The Florida peninsula bulges out on the central west coast. It’s like a silent signal that this is a good time to refuel, recharge, replenish, stretch legs. Well, then, how about some short walks to cultural attractions in Sarasota, Tampa, and St. Petersburg? Their waterfronts are easy to stroll to the liveliest sections of town, and you can tie up at the marinas and walk to restaurants, theaters, museums, and shops. 

Sarasota

Cruise into Sarasota Bay toward the downtown skyline and, voilà, there’s Marina Jack with slips and a mooring field (yeah, like, with services). Exit Marine Plaza and plant your feet on the hard. You’re in Bayfront Park. Look around. Do you see that tall statue of the sailor kissing the girl? That’s the Unconditional Surrender statue based on the iconic photo of V-J Day in 1945 in Times Square. It’s a big deal—literally.

Keep walking. Stroll Main Street and Palm Avenue and have a seat at any one of a number of highly rated restaurants. While you’re downtown, visit the Art Uptown Gallery. Some 24 local artists display and sell their work there.

Van Wezel

It’s a long hike but just a short car ride to the Van Wezel Performing Arts Hall. January’s schedule includes music and comedy stars like Renée Fleming, Jay Leno, The Righteous Brothers, Jersey Boys, and Harry Connick Jr. Plus, you can enjoy the Sarasota Orchestra and other events at the nearby Beatrice Friedman Symphony Center.

The Ringling on Sarasota Bay

Museums

Sarasota gets special applause for its outstanding museums. The Sarasota Art Museum has several special exhibitions in early 2022: Judith Linhares: The Artist as Curator, whose paintings reflect the influences in her life that shape her work; Cuban artist Felix Gonzalez-Torres, who created art with everyday materials like light bulbs, paper, and candy; and David Budd: Motion Within Stillness. The abstract artist used spontaneous, viscous strokes of paint to animate the canvas.

Save a full day for The Ringling. It has three museums all located on a 20-acre waterfront property that circus owner John Ringling bought in 1911. One is the State Art Museum of Florida featuring work by European masters Rubens, Van Dyck, Velázquez, and more. Another is Ca’ d’Zan, the 36,000-square-foot Mediterranean-revivalist home Ringling built to honor his wife Mable. The third is the Circus Museum which includes a miniature replica of “The Greatest Show on Earth.”

Catch a performance of the Sarasota Ballet, Florida’s only ballet company, at the Asolo Repertory Theatre, adjacent to the Ringling Museum of Art, or the Sarasota Opera at the historic Sarasota Opera House downtown, a block from Main Street. The Florida Studio Theatre has five stages that provide settings for acts such as Improv, Cabaret, and off-Broadway plays.

Skyway Bridge at Sunset

Tampa

Stop No. 2 on your cultural cruise is Tampa. Cruise north under the Sunshine Skyway Bridge into Tampa Bay. Tampa is on the eastern side of middle Tampa Bay. Take the Seddon Channel and head straight to the Tampa Convention Center. It is the most convenient access to Tampa Riverwalk, a 2.6-mile, paved hiking/biking path along the Hillsborough River that takes you to many of the city’s well-known attractions, including the Florida Aquarium, Tampa Bay History Center, Tampa Museum of Art, Glazer Children’s Museum, and the Straz Center for the Performing Arts.

Call well in advance to reserve a slip for a few hours or overnight. The Riverwalk docks at the History Center offer a short-term tie-up option. Or, for longer stays, the Tampa Marriott Water Street has a marina with 32 full-service slips.

All the slips are booked for the big Gasparilla Pirate Festival on Saturday, January 29th, but you can still become a pirate and help escort the Gasparilla Pirate Ship to the Convention Center. Pirate José Gaspar and Ye Mystic Krewe will meet the mayor and demand she surrender the keys to the city. No worries; it’s only for 24 hours.

Don’t forget to hop on a Tampa Streetcar and take it to Ybor City. It’s where the Cuban sandwich was born. Indulge in one at the original Columbia Restaurant in Ybor City. 

St. Petersburg

When you cruise into the open waters of Tampa Bay, you’ll see the St. Petersburg skyline on the western shore. As you get closer, you’ll notice the new pier. Since the city’s earliest days in the 19th century, it has had a pier in one version or another. The newest one is a 26-acre, come one, come all playground with shops, kayak rentals, a water playground for the little ones, and restaurants to suit all palates and pocketbooks. The pier has a few boat slips for short-term tie-ups, but availability might be limited as there’s no charge and reservations are not required.

The St. Pete Municipal Marina has recently expanded its spaces for itinerant vessels for the day or several days. Reserve space up to a month in advance. Are you hungry? From the marina, it’s a convenient walk to many different style restaurants at all price points.

Over the years, St. Petersburg has built a stellar reputation as one of the top art centers for any city its size. The Duke Energy Center for the Arts-Mahaffey Theater on Beach Drive is the home of the renowned Florida Orchestra, and it brings in many top-notch entertainers. The January and February calendar includes musical tributes to Tina Turner, Whitney Houston, Carole King, Elton John, and ABBA.

Next door to The Mahaffey is the Dalí Museum. Inside that geodesic glass bubble of a building are more than 2,400 pieces of art and five extra-large masterworks by Spanish surrealist Salvador Dalí, such as The Hallucinogenic Toreador and The Discovery of America by Christopher Columbus.

The Museum of Fine Arts on Beach Drive has masterpieces from Claude Monet, Georgia O’Keeffe, Willem de Kooning, and Robert Rauschenberg. It is also acclaimed for its extensive photography collections.

Other museums worth visiting in St. Pete include the James Museum of Western and Wildlife Art, the Florida Holocaust Museum, the Chihuly Collection at the Morean Arts Center, St. Petersburg Museum of History, Imagination Museum, and the new Museum of the American Arts & Crafts Movement. Some are walkable from the marina. You can also rent an e-scooter to scoot around town. And, downtown St. Pete is bike-friendly. There’s so much to do, so enjoy the Tampa Bay area. 

-by Bill AuCoin

What’s New In The Bahamas In February

WHAT’S NEW IN THE BAHAMAS IN FEBRUARY

NASSAU, Bahamas, 01 February 2022 — Travellers can exchange their winter blues for warm turquoise waters this winter season. Though temperatures have cooled a bit, the sun continues to shine bright over The Bahamas with luxurious new hotel and marina accommodations, more direct flights to the Out Islands and hot vacation deals.

NEWS

The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation Appoints New Leadership — Seasoned Bahamian business professional Latia Duncombe has been named Acting Director General, and Dr. Kenneth Romer, formerly the Ministry’s Executive Director, was selected as Deputy Director General. The new leadership team will oversee efforts to drive continued growth and recovery of tourism, and further propel The Bahamas as a leading Caribbean destination.

Grand Reopening of Sandals Royal Bahamian Resort — After completing a multimillion-dollar renovation, the reimagined Sandals Royal Bahamian is now welcoming back guests to the luxurious, all-inclusive resort and private offshore island. Highlights of the resort’s enhancements include new swim-up suites and private villas, upgraded restaurants and five new dining venues, as well as new and exciting entertainment offerings.

Pharrell Williams Announces Resort Plans in The Bahamas — 13-time Grammy winner Pharrell Williams announced plans to bring ‘tropical modernism’ to Atlantis Paradise Island with an all-new resort, Somewhere Else. The 400-room property is scheduled to open in 2024 and will feature multiple bars and restaurants, as well as bungalows with recording studios.

Superyacht Marina “Norman’s Cay” Opens in The Exumas — Norman’s Cay, a secluded and charming island located at the northern end of The Exumas, is now welcoming captains to the new 37-slip marina that accommodates a range of vessels, including luxury yachts and swooped sailboats.

Aztec Airways Adds New Nonstop Flights to Eleuthera — Aztec Airways adds twice-weekly flights from Fort Lauderdale to Rock Sound Airport on the island of Eleuthera. The new service joins existing routes to North Eleuthera and Governor’s Harbour, as well as to Marsh Harbour and Treasure Cay in Abaco.

 

Atlantis Paradise Island Wins “World’s Best Casino Hotel 2021” — The world-class Atlantis Casino, home to over 700 slot machines and 85 table games, wins the top spot as World Casino Awards’ “Best Casino Hotel 2021”.

The Bahamas and Homesick Inspire Wanderlust — The limited-edition “‘The Bahamas” candle, inspired by the destination’s warm temperatures, unique culture and idyllic white sand beaches, brings island vibes to travellers’ homes as they dream and plan their next vacation. Now through 28 February 2022, consumers can enter to win the ultimate Bahamas escape to Caerula Mar Club in South Andros.

 

PROMOTIONS AND OFFERS

For a complete listing of deals and packages for The Bahamas, visit www.bahamas.com/deals-packages.

Visitors Travel with Confidence at Baha Mar — The world’s first “‘Travel with Confidence” program continues at Baha Mar. Guests who test positive for COVID-19 can choose between complimentary private air travel home, or free 14-day quarantine accommodations with a daily $150 dining credit.

U.S. & Canadian Travellers Fly Free to the Out Islands — When island hopping from Nassau, travellers prebooking a minimum 4-night stay at an Out Island participating property will receive one free airline or ferry ticket. Those booking a 7-night stay or more can score two free airline or Bahama Ferries tickets from the nation’s capital. Booking window is now through 14 February 2022, for travel until 31 August 2022.

Ocean Reef, a residential club unlike any other

Ocean Reef Club

Convenient to the Bahamas and encompassed by the famed waters of the Florida Keys, Ocean Reef Club’s 175-slip marina is nothing short of world class. One of finest marinas on the Eastern Seaboard, a full range of marina services, private charters, and watercraft rentals are available to Members and their guests, accommodating performance and sportfishing boats as well as yachts up to 175 feet. As Members moor their boats in the marina or an individual slip – the on-site facility will handle any detailing or repair needed, and also provide accessories, bait, and tackle.

Surrounded by clear, warm waters and the finest fishing in the world, Ocean Reef Club is a place where the possibilities – and the memories – are limitless. The variety of local fish is astounding, and the techniques of their capture are among life’s most exhilarating pursuits. Members can fish for billfish one day, snapper the next, and wind up your week stalking bonefish. There is also the reef itself, the only living coral reef in American waters. It towers above the seafloor, sheltering an amazing variety of species. Between 15 and 60 feet down, you’ll encounter snapper, porgy, grouper, hogfish, mackerel, jacks, and many others. It’s unforgettable entertainment.

Ocean Reef is a residential club unlike any other. A place where generations of Members and their families have experienced the wonder of living on 2,500 pristine, secure acres. No other club in the world offers the abundance of amenities and privileges, kinship, and tradition.

There are only two ways to experience Ocean Reef Club’s Unique Way of Life – as a guest of a Member or through the pages of Ocean Reef’s Living magazine. Visit OceanReefClubLiving.com or call 305-367-5921 to request your complimentary copy.

Southern Boating & Regal Boats Trip to the Bahamas

A Regal Crossing

A trip to the Bahamas was the perfect way for Regal Boats to introduce its latest models. 

When Regal Marine Industries thought about where to do a photo shoot to introduce its latest models, it didn’t take long to decide on a location that would stir all the senses for its new LX36 dual console outboard and the new 38 FXO yacht—the Bahamas. The water’s colors, the billowing cloud formations, the pastel houses, remote beaches, limestone formations and caves, it all makes this archipelago the perfect place, one that depicts the lifestyle and beauty of Regal’s new designs.

Powered by twin Yamaha 425 V8 5.6L XTO Offshore outboards on the LX36 and triple Yamaha 300 V6 4.2L Offshores on the 38 FXO, the crossing from Palm Beach to the Bahamas was a great opportunity to see how the boats performed in real-time conditions.

Losing the Horizon

Any crossing is an adventure, so it’s key to be prepared—working communication equipment (preferably with GPS capability), navigation charts and displays, safety gear, and spare parts for the engine as well as plenty of water and food. Don’t forget to check the weather, winds, and tide—a north wind on the Gulf Stream will make you regret leaving the dock. 

Fortunately, it was a beautiful day for a crossing with winds holding around 10-15 mph from the east-southeast that produced small chop atop two- to four-foot swells. Regal’s new 38 FXO cruises comfortably in that sea at around 25 mph, and the 36 easily kept pace. 

“The number one thing we care about is ‘let’s get a soft ride,’” says Jake Kuck, vice president of North American sales and marketing, about the hull’s design. “The hull has a forty-five-degree entry that flattens out to seventeen degrees in the back; that variable deadrise gives you a soft ride that lets it eat up the waves.” 

Even with the occasional steep wave set, overall conditions allowed for both boats to power along in the low 30s. 

“The hull is optimized for its power,” adds Jeff Littlefield, Regal’s marketing manager. “Although the LS36 has the same layout forward of the swim platform, the LX36 benefits from more storage without the Volvo sterndrive engines. What’s unique about Regal is that while these boats seem very similar, they don’t just slap on outboards or sterndrives to the same hull. Each hull is specifically designed to optimize the power used for the best ride possible.”

Old Bahama Bay Resort & Yacht Harbour

As you approach the northernmost tip of Grand Bahama, look for the water tower that identifies West End. Be aware that there’s a stronger current (and more chop) caused by the steep shallowing of the ocean floor as you approach the Bahama Bank.

The entrance to Old Bahama Bay Resort & Yacht Harbour (oldbahamabayresorts.com) is marked with two jetties; the portside jetty has a 30-foot weather monitoring tower. The full-service marina not only has high-octane gas and diesel with 63 slips, it also has an onsite Customs and Immigration office. 

Old Bahama Bay’s lodging has the quintessential Bahamian look: well-appointed, West Indies colonial-style rooms with luxury amenities within colorful pastel buildings and manicured grounds. The resort sits between the marina and a palm-fringed, powder-sand beach. An infinity pool with bar along the beach is the centerpiece of the resort’s activities, which include kayaks, paddleboards, bicycles, and more. The marina restaurant and bar serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner…and sunsets. 

Across the Bank 

Puffy clouds scattered the sky, and the sandy colors of the shallow bank kept most eyes on the depth gauge as the boats headed toward Abaco. The clear waters made 10-foot depths look like three feet. 

The islands create their own weather patterns at times, and it wasn’t a surprise to see towering cumulus clouds form in our path with curtains of rain beneath. It was a perfect time to really look at the boats’ interior setup and see the advantages of the open layouts. 

One big advantage of the LX36’s coupe style and the 38 FXO’s main deck is the protection from the elements. Rain or shine, the captain and guests can stay out of the weather. As a rainstorm approached, the switch from the upper to lower helm on the 38 was simple: put it in neutral, step below, push the station command button, and take the helm.

The enclosed cabin is also a benefit in the north because it extends the boating season. Air-conditioning and heating provide comfort for any time of the year. 

When it’s time to let the outdoors in, the LX36 opens from bow to stern with a walk-through windshield and a full-width retractable hardtop. Besides opening up the salon and galley to the cockpit on the 38 FXO, one of the best features is the flybridge. Nothing beats feeling the sun’s warmth, the fresh air, and a nice breeze, all with a 360-degree elevated view. A bimini top will provide shade if the sun’s heat is too much. For the ultimate in lounging, the 38’s bow has an enormous sunpad to enjoy any perfect moment. 

Sights to See 

There are many places to sightsee and stop for a swim along the way to Abaco Beach Resort. There’s a sunken twin-engine plane just off the end of the runway on Spanish Cay. Position the boat near the end of the runway within 100 feet from shore off the end of a private dock. You can anchor close enough to snorkel from the swim platform. The top of the plane is about five-and-a-half feet below the surface. 

A beautiful half-moon beach on Nunjack Cay with good anchorage was a great stop for grilled fajita lunch. That’s where the salon, galley, and cockpit on both boats really shine.

Brandon Ferris of Southern Boating cooking up some Fajitas on the 38FXO

Regal’s Midwest sales manager, Lysle Spangler, and Brandon Ferris, Southern Boating’s marketing manager, put together quite a spread across the 38’s interior galley and cockpit entertainment center counters. The aft salon window lowers to bring the two together and with the sliding door open, the salon and aft deck seamlessly meld as one large entertainment area. The exterior grill, interior cooktop, sink, and refrigerators inside and out offer lots of room for food prep, cooking, and serving meals, including the fajita spread put on by the boys. Abundant seating throughout allows guests to enjoy luxurious comfort in a beautiful setting.

Abaco Beach Resort

The final leg of the day took us to Abaco Beach Resort and Boat Harbour Marina (abacobeachresort.com). The resort has rebuilt from the devastation of Hurricane Dorian.

The marina accommodates yachts to 200 feet in length and offers potable water, low-sulfur diesel, single and three-phase power, 24-hour security, and more. The marina pool at the foot of the docks is a welcome sight for those who spent the day in the sun, and a swim-up bar adds plenty of smiles. 

The Pool Bar & Terrace serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner with a local twist, including cracked conch and lobster burgers, and is a perfect spot to refresh and recharge. You’ll find fine dining at the Bistro in the main building featuring fresh seafood as well as prime cuts of beef while taking in the view. The main accommodations overlook an expansive lawn and beach area and the marina. 

The resort and marina are in a central location for island hopping, sportfishing, diving, and many other land- and water-based activities. 

Rest Easy

The LX36 is an exceptional day boat that provides comfort for sunning and entertaining. A starboard quarter berth is air-conditioned for naptime or to store gear, and a portside console slides open to reveal a spacious head.

Those on the 38 FXO will find roomy accommodations below with a pedestal queen berth forward and a queen berth aft. Another Regal innovative design feature is separating the head and shower: a full head to starboard and a full shower to port. 

“You can use both facilities at once,” says Kuck. “It makes the layout so much more usable if you can’t have multiple heads.”

The LX36 and the 38 FXO were launched this fall, and both new styles expand Regal’s bowrider and yacht series. The LX36 is the largest bowrider in the fleet, available with outboards or as a sterndrive, and the 38 FXO adds a flybridge to the popular 38 XO model, which makes piloting and cruising much more fun. With either boat, luxury, innovation, and comfort combine to give the family a perfect place to enjoy time on the water…together.   

-by Steve Davis

Chartering in the Windward Islands

Chartering in the Windward Islands

This string of Southern Caribbean islands is perfect for those who’ve already cruised the USVI and BVI.

The seven-square-mile island of  Bequia is a destination Rolf “Erik” Stromberg first heard of in the 1970s. Stromberg’s sailing buddies in Seattle, where he lived at the time, painted a picture in his mind of a tropical paradise where, over the winter holidays especially, sailors from all over the world dropped anchor in Admiralty Bay. They socialized on each other’s boats, had toes-in-the-sand parties ashore, and sailed to the neighboring Grenadine islands for raft-ups in out-of-the-way bays.

“I never made it to Bequia back then. But about a decade ago, I saw an article about the island in the travel section of The New York Times,” says Stromberg. “I clipped it out for my partner to read and told her I’d teach her to sail if she wanted to go. She did, and that’s how I first visited Bequia. 

“Since then, we’ve chartered and sailed the Grenadines every year,” he says, adding his charter choice is a 40- to 45-foot monohull, equipped with an autopilot and an in-mast furling mainsail for easier boat handling. “We chartered most recently with Horizon Yacht Charters (Blue Lagoon, St. Vincent). They have a great option where for one hundred dollars, they picked up the boat in Bequia and sailed it back at the end of the charter so we could stay and spend an extra week ashore in a rental villa visiting all our Bequia friends.” 

The Windwards

St. Vincent and the Grenadines are part of the Windward Islands, a stretch of the southern Caribbean that spans from Dominica to Grenada or about 190 nautical miles (nm). This includes Martinique and St. Lucia. The British are credited with coining the term Windwards. It was a pragmatic way to divide the chain because 17th– and 18th-century ship captains sailing on transatlantic currents and trade winds from Europe usually arrived somewhere in this middle crossroads. Thus, the islands located to the windward of this point became the Windwards, and those leeward, the Leewards.

“Sailing from Martinique to Grenada is popular, and we offer one-way sails for guests wanting to do this route,” says Dan Lockyer, the UK-based vice president of global tourism for Dream Yacht Charter, with Windward Caribbean bases in Martinique and Grenada. “This part of the Caribbean is beautiful, and we’d suggest allowing eight to ten days to sail down to Grenada.” 

Similarly, a one-way charter starting 40 nm to the south in St. Lucia to Grenada is what Ian Pedersen, senior marketing manager at the Clearwater, Florida-headquartered The Moorings & Sunsail, calls the ultimate Caribbean experience. The Moorings offers bareboat and crewed charters on sailing monohulls and sailing and power multihulls from its bases on both islands. 

“This is a bucket-list item for many sailors and boaters. It’s not for those who consider themselves beginner sailors or who have not chartered before,” says Pedersen. “This is an itinerary that requires knowledge, experience, and patience, but also one that rewards those who take the time to travel these waters with a quintessential Caribbean experience that can’t be found anywhere else. While the ease of travel and line of sight sailing are what attract so many travelers to places like the British Virgin Islands, the Bahamas, and St. Martin, the sheer distances involved, and the knowledge and navigation required in a Windward charter vacation are what make it so rewarding. 

“As for conditions, they are called the Windwards for a reason, and in the winter months, sailors can expect a steady wind from the east between fifteen to twenty-five knots,” he adds. “Temperatures remain very comfortable even in winter, varying between seventy-five to eighty degrees Fahrenheit.”

Island by Island

While a long multi-island cruise is indeed spectacular, it is currently challenging due to the myriad COVID-19 protocols for each island, some of which include a quarantine period. These protocols are outlined on each island government or health ministry’s website. Therefore, those cruising or chartering in the Caribbean this season may want to anchorage-hop within one island nation, recommends Ann McHorney, chief executive officer and charter broker with Fort Lauderdale, Florida-based Select Yachts, which, with Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis Marina in Grenada, has spearheaded the Grenada Charter Yacht Show.

“We presently avoid the international aspect. It’s just not practical now,” says McHorney.  

Dominica 

This 290-square-mile island, the second largest in the Windwards after Martinique, has never received many charters or cruiser traffic due to its lack of facilities. There are no marinas or charter bases. However, Hank Schmitt, owner of Offshore Passage Opportunities and founder of the North American Rally to the Caribbean, has worked for several years with the Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services (PAYS) to establish a mooring field.

“We hope to have twenty-seven of the thirty moorings we donated fully refurbished by Christmas. The new dinghy docks should also be in place by then,” says Schmitt, who will again host PAYS Yachtie Appreciation Week, March 20-27, 2022. “This is one island you want to explore inland. Nearby is the must-see Indian River Tour, and further inland, there are waterfalls, rain forests, the Boiling Lake, and the Emerald Pool, to name a few.”

Martinique

One of the French Caribbean islands, and politically, a part of France, the yachting hub here is in Le Marin, a town on the island’s south coast. The Marina du Marin boasts more than 800 slips, a full range of services from refueling to laundry, and amenities like shops and restaurants. Dream Yacht Charter has its base here.

“We have expanded our fleet at our base at Le Marin, and we also have two eco-friendly floating villas for rental, called Aqualodges,” says Lockyer. “They sleep four and come with water toys, a see-through floor to watch the fish, and plenty of space for lounging and sunbathing.

“Food is an important part of any yacht charter,” he adds. “Some of our favorite restaurants in Martinique include Le Petibonum in Le Carbet, where you can sample local seafood, Le Kano in Trois-Ilets offers modern Creole cuisine…and Le Zandoli, also in Trois-Ilets, offers a breathtaking panoramic view plus dinner by a swimming pool overlooking the bay of Fort-de-France.”

Dining in St. Lucia

St. Lucia

Known for its two picturesque peaks, the Pitons, there are two major marinas here. One is the 42-slip Marigot Bay Marina on the island’s west coast where the 1960s version of Dr. Dolittle with Rex Harrison was filmed. The other is IGY’s 253-slip Rodney Bay Marina north of the capital of Castries in Gros Islet. The Moorings and DSL Yachting both have their bases in Rodney Bay. 

The Moorings charters offer snorkeling off Pigeon Island near Gros Islet in St Lucia.

“Benefits of chartering out of St. Lucia are comprehensive services and the accessibility of supermarkets, bars, and restaurants. There are also marine stores, hardware stores, and decent shopping nearby,” says Ulrich Meixner, managing director of DSL Yachting, which offers a fleet of 32 to 44 monohulls and multihulls for bareboat charter. Meixner is also the current president of the St. Lucia Sailing Association, which makes him in-the-know on all things sailing in St. Lucia. 

“A must-do is to spend a night at-anchor between the Pitons. The views are breathtaking and romantic,” he says. “St. Lucia also has a lot to offer for land-based activities like zip-lining, mountain biking, hiking, and sightseeing.”

St. Vincent & The Grenadines

Located 100 nm east of Barbados, this 32-island nation starts at St. Vincent to the north and ends some 30 nm to the south in Union Island. Young Island, just 200 yards from St. Vincent’s southern mainland, is one of the smallest in the country and the site of the private Young Island Resort.

Enjoying a meal on Isolablue in the Grenadines

“With a handful of moorings, this is a wonderful place to start your charter vacation because you can climb up the two hundred and fifty steps of Fort Duvernette and get incredible views of St. Vincent’s south coast and the Bequia channel,” says Astrid Geslin, who with husband and captain, Laurent, provide crewed charters aboard the 49-foot Privilege catamaran, Isolablue. The Grenadines offer several walls, rocks, and reefs to dive. Laurent is a PADI instructor while Astrid is a PADI Divemaster. 

Horizon Yacht Charters is based at the Blue Lagoon Resort & Marina, a 20-slip facility where arrivals receive a special St. Vincy Rum Punch. Horizon offers 38- to 51-foot monohulls and multihulls for bareboat charter.

BBQ Ashore in the Tobago Cays courtesy of Horizon Yacht Charters

“Each Grenadine has its own unique vibe, so it is like visiting a few different countries in a week,” says Lesley Dowden, Horizon’s St. Vincent-based reservations specialist. “Best places en route include the world-famous Tobago Cays. The anchorage is protected by an enormous horseshoe reef which also provides amazing snorkeling. You can swim with the turtles that feed around the five islands that make up the Cays or explore ashore with the nearly tame iguanas and tortoises. In the evening, you can arrange a wonderful lobster or fish beach barbecue with one of the local guides.”

Grenada

Some say you can smell the fragrance of locally grown cinnamon and nutmeg as you approach the island. Camper & Nicholsons Port Louis is the major marina with 227 slips and the site of bases for Dream Yacht Charter and The Moorings.

“Grenada is almost as remote as it gets in the Caribbean. This is generally the endpoint of most Windward Island vacations, and guests enjoy dropping their yachts off at our base and utilizing the nearby international airport to fly home,” says Pedersen. “The main highlight in Grenada is the capital of St. George’s itself and the local, world-famous spice market from which the island derives its nickname.” 

The best part is that the Windward Islands are fun to cruise any time of year. “In the winter, you get the Christmas winds, and in the summer, there’s a good breeze, too,” says Stromberg. “Plus, in the summer, it’s much less crowded. It’s possible to have an entire anchorage to yourself.” 

-by Carol Bareuther

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