Category: Destinations

Destinations: Looking for information for your next cruising destinations? Whether you’re planning a sail in the Caribbean or summering in Newport, our destinations resources will help you plan the perfect excursion. Our expansive cache of destination information includes Monthly regional reports filled with seasonal tips and travel itineraries,  Local knowledge on great boating locales, Cruiser resources—complete with photos, Insider tips, marina information and more!

Beaufort, North Carolina

In Beaufort, North Carolina, preserving the past is the way of the future.

Often referred to as the Inner Banks of North Carolina, the Crystal Coast offers an abundance of pleasures for anyone seeking adventure or serenity on, under or simply near the ocean. Beaufort, NC is one such pleasure.  The broad, sandy beaches stretching out from the dunes are legendary. Surfcasting and offshore fishing are some of the best in the world. With over 2,000 shipwrecks, “the graveyard of the Atlantic” provides scuba divers with warm water and 75 feet of visibility as they explore the depths.

A coastline dotted with marinas and marine services of all sorts satisfies the demands of the transient yachtsmen and weekend wave warriors. Moreover, families suffering from vacation desperation may partake in boat tours to Cape Lookout, bike and walking tours, food tours, bus tours, nature and wildlife tours, night tours, air tours, historic and heritage tours, and even ghost and vampire tours. Or they may simply relax and build lifelong memories amidst the peace and serenity of a beach cottage in the dunes.

Tucked behind Cape Lookout and Shackleford Bank with its fabled feral horses, the town of Beaufort is deeply rooted in maritime history and arguably the jewel of this coastal crown. Having grown up in a small New England coastal community, I have a special appreciation in my heart for those unique places that seem to cling to the edge—places that exist on that space between water and Earth, the demarcation line separating the known from the unknown.

Beaufort Roots

Founded in 1709, Beaufort still remains a welcoming port of call for modern cruisers churning their way up and down the ICW as well as for bluewater sailors darting into the Beaufort Inlet such as the pirate Edward Teach—better known as Blackbeard—regularly did in the early 18th century.

Legend has it that Blackbeard would run his ship Queen Ann’s Revenge up into Taylor Creek adjacent to Front Street and enjoy the various pleasures of the town while his crew was busy with the duties of repair and provision. Blackbeard met his violent end at the nearby island of Ocracoke in 1718, but the maritime industries of Beaufort have continued to flourish while the town itself has evolved into one of the most charming and active historic waterfront communities on the East Coast.

 

Rooted in a history of boatbuilding and fishing, the neighboring Harkers Island is home to a long, proud legacy of watermen that reaches back to the mid-18th century. Ebenezer Harker acquired the island in 1730. He and his family aslso built a plantation and boatyard, thus planting the seeds of a boatbuilding tradition that continues to this day.

Jarrett Bay

Hundreds of years after at the age of 18, Randy Ramsey became the youngest charter fishing boat captain on the island. Armed with the local knowledge and experience in dealing with the demands of commercial fishing, young Ramsey felt there had to be a better boat design to improve performance and handling in the often rough and treacherous sea conditions. In 1986, he began the design and construction on his first boat in a tin shed with a fellow captain and islander Jim Luxton. Completed in 1988, the 52-foot plank on-frame sportfish Sensation proved a success in delivering and sustaining the now legendary “Carolina ride”. Such were the humble beginnings of Jarrett Bay Boatworks (JBBW).

In 1999, Ramsey moved the company to its Beaufort location on Sensation Weigh, which created the Jarrett Bay Marine Industrial Park. The 175-acre park located on the central coast of North Carolina at ICW MM 198 is about halfway between New York and Florida. With an ever-expanding variety of marine specialty service operations and a 220-ton capacity Travellift, the park is capable of handling virtually any repair and refit requirements for yachts, cruisers and commercial fishermen. The marina welcomes vessels ranging from 17-foot center consoles to 130-foot luxury motoryachts and offers transient docking and fuel.

A conversation with JBBW’s vice president Tate Lawrence reveals that JBBW is not content to bask in the sunshine of past glories. The Carolina design has evolved along with the development of vacuum bag construction, stronger and lighter materials and more powerful engines among other progressions. “Every boat is different—truly custom as is each customer,” says Lawrence. The over 90 custom boats delivered to date is a testament to the JBBW commitment to excellence. The 90-foot project in the shed is about halfway through its 3-year birthing process—handmade all the way and obviously worth the wait.

A History Worth Seeing

Fittingly, Beaufort is home of the North Carolina Maritime Museum. The museum is the official repository for all of the artifacts from the wreck of Blackbeard’s Queen Anne’s Revenge discovered in 1999. There is also a display of more than 5,000 seashell specimens from over 100 countries around the world. Located across the street at the museum’s Watercraft Center, volunteers actively build and restore boats in an effort to preserve the Crystal Coast’s tradition of “backyard boatbuilding” and the annual BoatBuilding Challenge.

The center is also the jumping-off point for the annual Beaufort Wine and Food Weekend. It’s a delightful event where residents open their historic homes. Highlights include the combined efforts and generosity of the wine community, winemakers, local eateries, and fabulous guest chefs. All donate their time and talent during the flavorful 5-day event, which culminates with the Grand Reserve Tasting Auction on the waterfront. Beaufort offers spectacular coastal scenery, significant maritime history, a strong sense of community coupled with great food, and an easy pace of life.

—Story & photos by Jim Raycroft, Southern Boating Magazine July 2016

CRUISER RESOURCES

— Dockage —
Beaufort Docks
500 Front Street, Beaufort, NC
(252) 728-2503
-Year-round marina in a downtown location offering fuel, repairs and more

Jarrett Bay Boatworks/Jarrett Bay Marine Industrial Park
530 Sensation Weigh, Beaufort, NC
jarrettbay.com; (252) 728-2690
-Year-round marina offering fuel, major repairs and re-fit services

Town Creek Marina
232 West Beaufort Road, Beaufort, NC
towncreekmarina.com; (252) 728-6111
-Marina offering fuel and repairs

Cape Lookout Bight
34°37’22″N, 76°31’28″W
Lookout Bight, Harkers Island, NC
-Anchoring area

–Provisions–
Food Lion Grocery Store
1901 Live Oak Street, Beaufort, NC
foodlion.com; (252) 504-2442

Piggly Wiggly Grocery Store
1500 Live Oak Street, Beaufort, NC
pigglywigglystores.com; (252) 728-7262

Taylor’s Creek Grocery
525 Front Street, Beaufort, NC
taylorscreekgrocery.com; (252) 838-1495

–Eateries–
Beaufort Grocery Company
117 Queen Street, Beaufort, NC
beaufortgrocery.com; 252-728-3899

Backstreet Pub
124 Middle Lane, Beaufort, NC
historicbeaufort.com/backstreet_pub1.htm; (252) 728-7108

La Perla
1103 North 20th Street, Morehead City, NC
laperlarestaurantmhc.com; (252) 222-3808
-Caribbean cuisine

–Sites–
Cape Lookout National Seashore
1800 Island Road, Harkers Island, NC
nps.gov/calo; (252) 728-2250
-Discover Cape Lookout Lighthouse, spend time camping and fishing and enjoy the Shakelford Banks wild horses.

North Carolina Maritime Museums
315 Front Street, Beaufort, NC
ncmaritimemuseums.com/beaufort; (252) 728-7317
-Get a taste of coastal cultures and nautical history.

Explore These Five Inland Lakes

For a change of scenery, tow your boat to inland lakes and rivers.

Most of our cruising destination articles are focused on coastal locations or islands. All across the country, however, boat owners enjoy cruising the fresh waters on inland lakes. These five should be on your short list should your roadtrip with boat trailer in tow find you in the vicinity. But even if your boat is not trailerable, boat rental options run the gamut from pontoons to houseboats and everything in between.

Smith Mountain Lake, Virginia
Size: 32 sq mi; Mean depth: 55′ (max 250′)

Frequently referred to as the “Jewel of the Blue Ridge Mountains,” Smith Mountain Lake (SML) draws day boaters from Roanoke, VA, and the surrounding area (30-45 minute drive). If your base is in Roanoke, make sure you start your day with a hearty breakfast at the Roanoker, a family-owned diner famous for the biscuits and sausage gravy first served to WWII soldiers. Vacation-home owners from Richmond, Charlotte and Raleigh, NC, and as far away as Washington, D.C., arrive during peak season (June-August) for long weekends or the entire summer. Many rental properties are available with varied size, amenities and prices. Keep in mind that many of the roads to SML wind and curve, so driving with boat trailers should be done during daylight.

The lake is actually a reservoir that was created when the Smith Mountain Dam on the Roanoke River was built in 1963. The Virginia fishery management stocks SML with striped, smallmouth and largemouth bass, which earns it the moniker of being one of the country’s 25 best bass lakes. If you’re a little rusty on your bass fishing technique, fishing guides are readily available. On non-boating days, stretch your legs and hike or bike a section of the famed 470-mile-long Blue Ridge Parkway, the National Park that’s visited most frequently (see page 68 for more National Parks). You may also recognize some of the shoreline from the movie What About Bob, which was filmed here.

INFORMATION:
Smith Mountain Dam Visitors Center (*Free admission)
2072 Ford Road, Sandy Level, VA
Phone: (540) 985-2587; smithmtn.com

Boat launches:
Hales Ford Boat Launch
16700 Moneta Rd., Moneta • (540) 297-2222
SML State Park Boat Launch
1235 State Park Rd., Huddleston • (540) 297-6066

 

Lake Marion, South Carolina
Area: 171.9 sq mi; Max depth: 77′

Approximately a one-hour drive from Charleston, South Carolina, Lake Marion is the state’s largest freshwater lake. Created by the damming of the Santee River in the 1940s, the lake covers over 110,000 acres. Thousands of live cypress trees are still in the area, which help contribute to a thriving ecosystem. Many species of fish—striped bass, crappie and catfish—flourish in the lake’s rich environment making Lake Marion a prime fishing destination. In addition to boating, scenic activities include walking and biking trails, geocaching, hiking, and bird watching. Open 6AM-10PM daily, Santee State Park offers lakeside cabin lodging and camping grounds for extended stays. Park admission is $2 for adults and free for ages 15 and younger. Also on Lake Marion is the Santee National Wildlife Refuge, which extends additional provisions for nature enthusiasts, such as two observation towers that provide great vantage points for observing the local wildlife. Visiting the refuge is free and its visitor center is open Tuesday through Friday, 8AM-4PM. *South Carolina requires a recreational license for fishing.
dnr.sc.gov/licensing

INFORMATION:
Santee State Park
251 State Park Road, Santee, SC • (803) 854-2408
southcarolinaparks.com/santee; fws.gov/refuge/santee

Boat launch:
John C. Land III Boat Ramp
Greenall Road, Summerton, SC • (803) 734-4009

 

Lake Champlain, New York, Vermont & Quebec
Area: 490 sq mi; Mean depth: 64′ (Max: 400′)

On this popular and picturesque lake’s west border are the Adirondack Mountains in New York, and on its east are Vermont’s Green Mountains. Named after explorer Samuel de Champlain, its sweeping vistas, wide variety of waterfront activities, multiple waterways, sandy shores, and peaceful bays draw thousands of visitors each year. On the lake’s eastern shore sits Burlington, Vermont—Lake Champlain’s largest waterside city. Throughout the year, the beautiful and historic Waterfront Park hosts several music and food festivals and is also home to the Bike Path, which follows the park’s eastern border along the lake’s waterfront. Adjacent to the park is the Lake Champlain Community Sailing Center. The public boat launch is located at the easily accessible Perkins Pier Marina, and transient cruisers in the area are sure to enjoy the many services and plenty of dockage offered at Burlington’s Community Boathouse Marina.

INFORMATION:
Community Boathouse Marina
1 College St., Burlington, VT 05401 • (802) 865-3377
lakechamplainregion.com

Boat launch:
Perkins Pier Marina
1 Lavalley Lane, Burlington, VT • (802) 865-3377

 

Lake Sammamish, Washington
Area: 8 sq mi; Mean depth: 58′ (max: 105′)

Nestled within the 512-acre Lake Sammamish State Park amid the scenic suburbs just 8 miles east of Seattle is a cruiser-friendly freshwater lake. The serene Lake Sammamish and surrounding state park is open to the public every day from 6AM to dark for recreational boating, fishing, swimming, water skiing, and hiking and biking trails. Bird watching is popular thanks to the great-blue-heron rookery in the area’s deciduous forest and wetland vegetation. Witness one of the world’s greatest natural journeys: salmon migration up Issaquah Creek from its Lake Sammamish outlet and into the salmon hatchery. Launch your boat at the park’s largest designated watercraft launching lot off of East Lake Sammamish Parkway at the southeast tip of the lake. There are two finger docks (60-by-4-feet and 40-by-4-feet) spaced between nine 12-by-30-feet launch ramps, and a daily water-launching permit costs $7 on top of the state park’s $10 per day Discover Pass ($30 annually). Visitors also have the option to purchase an annual permit for year-round state park watercraft launching, which omits the necessity of a Discover Pass. *Washington state parks require a recreational license for fishing and shellfish harvesting.

INFORMATION:
Lake Sammamish
2000 NW Sammamish Rd., Issaquah, WA • (425) 649-4275

Boat launch:
Lake Sammamish State Park Boat Launch
4455 E Lake Sammamish Pkwy, Issaquah, WA • (425) 649-4275

 

Lake Washington, Washington
Area: 34 sq mi; Mean depth: 108′ (max 214′)

The second largest lake in Washington State after Lake Chelan borders the city of Seattle on the west and also shares shorelines with Bellevue and Kirkland on the east, Renton on the south and Kenmore on the north. The lake surrounds Mercer Island, one of the most affluent cities in the state and home to Microsoft co-founder Paul Allen’s compound. Lake Washington is also home to the waterfront properties of Microsoft co-founder Bill Gates, Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, and Starbucks founder and CEO Howard Shultz among many other notable names.

Feeding this long ribbon lake from the north is the Sammamish River, and the Cedar River feeds its south end. Sport fishing is abundant with a variety of species, including coastal cutthroat trout, rainbow trout, largemouth bass, smallmouth bass, yellow perch, and black crappie.

What’s more, the stunning Lake Union (580 acres; mean/max depth 34’/50′) sits completely within the Seattle city limits and is accessible by water from Lake Washington’s Union Bay on the west side. From there, continue through Montlake Cut (46-foot bridge clearance) into Portage Bay, which leads into the quaint Lake Union after clearing the Lake Washington Ship Canal Bridge (182 feet). This lake has many waterfront parks and marinas, and Lake Union Park at the southernmost tip offers quick and easy access into the heart of the city. kingcounty.gov

INFORMATION:
Lake Washington
Lake Washington Blvd., Seattle, WA • (206) 684-4075

Lake Union
860 Terry Ave. N, Seattle, WA • (206) 684-4075

BOAT LAUNCHES
Lake Washington
Atlantic City Boat Ramp • 8702 Seward Park Ave. S.;
(206) 684-7249

Warren G. Magnuson Park Boat Launch (NW)
7400 Sand Point Way NE; (206) 684-4946

Gene Coulon Memorial Beach Park Boat Launch (SE)
1201 Lake Washington Blvd. N; (425) 430-6700

Lake Union
Sunnyside Avenue N Boat Ramp
2301 N Northlake Way; (206) 684-7249

George Town, Great Exuma

George Town is perhaps the most recognizable destination for cruisers venturing into the Exuma Cays. Located on the western shore of Elizabeth Harbour near the southern end of Great Exuma Island, it’s a winter haven for some, the turnaround point for others or a jumping-off point to southern horizons. George Town itself is a bustling area that caters to land-based tourism as well as the cruising community. With all its amenities, there’s no place south of the Abacos where the needs of visitors are better met.

Elizabeth Harbour is usually approached from Exuma Sound. A direct, inside approach from the Great Bahama Bank is possible but not recommended due to the difficulty of navigating its reefs, rocks and sandbars. From the Sound, the northern entrance is through Conch Cay Cut, while from the southeast, passing North Channel Rocks leads to Three Fathom Channel and on into the harbor. Both entrances are complex and thread through dangerous waters, so consult appropriate cruising references and carry quality charts for proper navigation. The three-mile-long Stocking Island and a series of smaller cays bound the Harbour on the east. In combination with Great Exuma Island to the west, the land forms a protected harbor with many suitable anchorages, both along the shore of Stocking Island and across the harbor closer to town. Exuma Yacht Club has transient dockage and moorings are available on Stocking Island. In the heart of winter, it is common for over 300 boats to be anchored here. Many services including fuel, laundry, groceries, water, and others are readily available in town.

Volleyball Beach
Situated near the geographic center of the harbor on Stocking Island, Volleyball Beach is command central for the cruising community. The sand volleyball courts host infamously competitive games, the Chat ‘N’ Chill restaurant provides food and drinks, and picnic tables on a beautiful sand beach under the casuarina trees mark the spot where everyone eventually meets. Activities in the area include yoga classes, craft lessons, recreational and competitive volleyball tournaments, Sunday church on the beach, and weekly talks by a local historian. The weekly barbecue lunch by the Chat ‘N’ Chill always draws big crowds. It’s easy to stay updated on local happenings as George Town has perhaps the busiest daily VHF cruiser’s net in the world. Every morning, a controlled net covers weather, news, announcements from local businesses, offers to buy, sell or trade boat gear, and requests for advice on nearly every subject. Depending on your cruising style, you may be energized or horrified by the breadth of activities here.

George Town Cruising Regatta
There’s no better time to experience George Town than in late February during the annual Cruising Regatta. This over-the-top celebration of all things cruising lasts approximately 10 days and is organized almost entirely by the cruising community. The already high energy of George Town escalates in the weeks preceding the first event. One of the biggest events of the Regatta is “George Town Has Talent”. Local residents and cruisers entertain with music and dance numbers ranging from sublime to ridiculous. Food and craft booths add an extra dimension to the festivities. At this year’s show, several local youth groups brought the crowd to life with dance and jazz routines, exemplifying one of the Regatta’s objectives: to bring our boating community and island residents a little closer together.

Another exciting component of the Regatta is the poker run, where participants can run in their dinghies to restaurants on both sides of the harbor picking up a card at each stop. The poker run has no time limit and each stop offers specials on food and drinks making it an all-afternoon event. Elizabeth Harbour is notable for the chop it can develop on windy days, which can make crossing the harbor a wet affair—bathing suits are the uniform of the day. Participants pick up a final card back at Volleyball Beach, where the very salty hands are played and the winning hand receives the quintessential island prize—a bottle of rum.

The Regatta also features a pet parade. Dogs of all breeds are dressed in imaginative costumes and paraded in front of a receptive crowd. Although some pets may be embarrassed by their costumes, they put their best paw forward and make their owners proud. The enticements of the harbor and the variety of events on George Town make the long trek worth your while. Whether you like the scene or not, everyone should experience this iconic destination at least once.

Navigation update:
Long Island Petroleum in Salt Pond, Long Island, suffered major damage to their docks from Hurricane Joaquin in October 2015. They report that the docks have been completely rebuilt as of June 2016. In even better news for cruisers, the approach and dockside waters were dredged. The staff was not able to confirm exact depths, but they indicated that boats with a draft of 6 feet or less won’t encounter any problems at the dock. Furthermore, most cruisers should no longer have to lug jerry cans for fuel.

By Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

This (Earthquake) Is A Test, Only A Test

A 3.7 magnitude earthquake recorded off the Florida coast on July 19th was actually a 10,000-pound explosive charge detonated by the U.S. Navy. The explosion was used in a shock trial test of the USS Jackson roughly 168 nm off shore by Daytona Beach, although the Navy will not confirm the exact, classified coordinates. Shock trial tests are used to determine a ship’s ability to remain seaworthy when faced with the impact of underwater explosions.

Seismographs as far away as Venezuela and locations across the U.S. registered the “earthquake” at 4PM. Differentiating natural quakes versus induced quakes such as those that occur with fracking can be hard for geophysicists to determine. Even scientists were unsure if the seismological event was natural or manufactured. However, once a Navy spokesman reached out and confirmed the time and location of the test, researchers were able to revise the categorization of the explosion.

Boating enthusiasts in the area were issued a warning prior to the test telling them to stay away from the test location. The USS Jackson is a new Independence class of littoral combat ship—designed to conduct anti-submarine and surface countermeasure operations across the globe. The ship also underwent a series of stress tests this summer. The last Navy shock trial tested the USS Mesa Verde in 2008.

The Navy has faced criticism by environmental activist groups for its shock trial tests as well as its use of high-intensity long-range sonar, both of which can disturb and harm a variety of protected marine mammals. In order to comply with environmental regulations, the Navy informed the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) about the testing in advance. NOAA’s Southeast Mammal Stranding Network Coordinator was on guard, and teams of observers oversaw the testing to ensure that no protected species were injured.

Southport Wooden Boat Show
Enjoy everything Southport, North Carolina, has to offer at this year’s 7th Annual Southport Wooden Boat Show. The show will take place in and around the charming and historic Old Yacht Basin from 10AM until 4PM. A variety of wooden boats will be on display, and visitors to the show can meet and greet the exhibitors to learn more about the craft of wooden boat building. Visitors will also be able to vote for their favorite boat entry in the People’s Choice Award.

Little sailors can try their hand at building their own boats (with or without assistance) and test their seaworthiness at the popular Nauti-kids events. Presented by the North Carolina Maritime Museum at Southport, staff and volunteers will be around to assist any participants as they build and paint their own vessels. The North Carolina Aquarium will also have a booth on display where children can see a showcase of live animals such as hermit crabs, snails, anemones, sea stars, and other sea creatures that can all be discovered just off the coast of North Carolina. Stop by the station to learn more about the area’s interesting and diverse wildlife. southportwoodenboatshow.com

By Susanna Botkin, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

Billfish are expected to bite at Puerto Rican Tournament.

Many opportunities to catch and release marlin are what organizers of the San Juan International Billfish Tournament (IBT), hosted out of Club Nautico de San Juan from September 12th to 18th, have been preparing for. Over the past year, seven Fish Aggregating Devices (FADs) have been constructed and installed in the waters off Puerto Rico. “Fishing is hot,” says IBT chairman Salvador Egea, Jr. “Blue marlin, whites, sailfish, wahoo, tuna, and other sport fish have been biting since the first FAD was deployed eight miles off the San Juan Harbor, the prime fishing grounds for our tournament, in August 2015.” A total of 48 FADs will be placed in Puerto Rican waters over the next few years. In addition to the promise of a hot bite, it’s the hospitality that is the real signature of the IBT event. International anglers get picked up personally from the airport rather than having to take a taxi, and the Ladies Committee puts together a full program of shopping, sightseeing and spa visits for non-fishing spouses. Those who can’t make it this year can still follow the action. Organizers have launched a mobile app that provides real time information on releases, day tallies and cumulative results. sanjuaninternational.com 

Celebrate Labor Day in Coral Bay.
The tropics tend to have quieter event schedules in September due to the peak of hurricane season. However, one bright spot of festivities begins on Labor Day in Coral Bay, St. John. The smallest of the three major U.S. Virgin Islands—accessible only by boat—boasts a zany parade complete with queens, costumed troupes and even the island’s iconic donkeys on Monday, September 5th. The procession starts at noon on the south side of Coral Harbor by Island Blues and ends less than a mile north at the ballfield across from the 18th century Emmaus Moravian Church. Vendors line the finish selling everything from local fruit juices made of mango, papaya and tamarind to favorite foods such as chicken legs, johnnycakes and meat-filled pâtés, as well as a variety of handmade arts and crafts. Live music keeps the party going long into the night. There’s an extra special reason to celebrate Labor Day or any day in Coral Bay. The New York Times listed this quaint settlement fourth on its list of 52 Places to Go in 2016. Two marina projects are planned that some residents welcome, as there is no marina here currently. However, others fear the project will change the very face of what draws visitors to this piece of paradise. visitusvi.com/stjohn/homepage

 

New boatyard offers a variety of services.
Clarkes Court Boatyard and Marina (CCBM) is one of the newest kids on the block when it comes to boatyards in the Caribbean. Located on the southwest coast of Grenada next to the sheltered waters of Woburn Bay, the marine business celebrated its first anniversary and 300th haul in June. Facilities and services include a Roodberg submersible trailer with a 40-ton lift capacity, a Travelift capable of hauling vessels up to 242 tons, woodworking, welding, painting, and rigging as well as fuel, chandlery, garbage pick-up, and 24-hour security. The latest addition is a courtesy dinghy used to pick up the port stern line of vessels coming in for a haul. This saves the vessel’s bow person from having to rush back to get the stern line ashore. CCBM is owned by Kelly Glass, a New Zealand native and long-time Caribbean businessman. Glass’s two sister companies make great getaways when a vessel is on the hard. One is the luxury Blue Lagoon Hotel and Marina in St. Vincent, and the other is the Bequia Plantation Hotel in Bequia. clarkescourtmarina.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

Philadelphia — Colonial Coast

Philadelphia’s rich waterfront scene offers
cruisers a glimpse into the past.

When most people think of Philadelphia, they probably conjure up images of Independence Hall, Betsy Ross sewing a flag, Valley Forge, Ben Franklin flying a kite, the Liberty Bell—the city that’s the birthplace of our nation. Philadelphia certainly is all that but also so much more, with world-class museums and cultural attractions, historic homes and some of the best parks in the U.S. But what most people don’t realize about Philadelphia is that it also has a lively, active, welcoming waterfront scene along the Delaware River with several modern marinas all within walking distance of many historic sites. Philadelphia, as it turns out, is a major boating destination.

In many ways, Philadelphia is ground zero for American history buffs. The first European settlers to arrive were the Dutch in 1623, although the English conquered the entire area soon after. In 1681, King Charles II of England granted William Penn, an early real estate entrepreneur, a charter for what is now Pennsylvania as partial repayment of a debt.

Penn, a Quaker, wisely paid the local Lenape tribe for the land to make peace and named the city Philadelphia, Greek for brotherly love. Because of its waterfront location and relatively friendly relations with the Indians, the city prospered. Indeed, by the mid-1750s, Philadelphia surpassed Boston as the biggest port in America and the second largest in the British Empire, just behind London. At the same time, Benjamin Franklin founded many city services including a library and one of the first hospitals in the colonies.

Philadelphia was also home for the Revolution. Meeting in Philadelphia, the Second Continental Congress created the Declaration of Independence in 1776. After the war, the Constitutional Convention deliberated there, and from 1790 to 1800 Philadelphia was the temporary capital of the newly created United States while the Federal City (now Washington, D.C.) was under construction. The city developed as a textile and manufacturing center during the 19th century and, growing on Franklin’s heritage, became a cultural and scientific center as well.

Getting there by boat is straightforward. If you’re coming from the Atlantic, Philadelphia is 83 nm up the Delaware from Cape May; if you’re coming from the Chesapeake, it’s 35 nm above the C&D Canal. The main waterfront area and the marinas start about three nm after you pass under the Walt Whitman Bridge.

First comes Penn’s Landing, which is hard to miss since it’s home to a 359-foot tall ship, a 344-foot Navy cruiser dating to 1895, and a 307-foot WWII submarine. Penn’s Landing has 34 slips, with 6 for transients. It can handle yachts up to 150-feet LOA and offers 30-, 50- and 100-amp service. Penn’s Landing does not have bathrooms or showers, but it does have rental foot-powered swan boats, kayaks and canoes, plus the Moshulu, a four-masted barque that is the the oldest and largest square rigger still floating. Launched in 1904, today Moshulu is a restaurant—the only one on a tall ship. Almost next to Moshulu is the Navy cruiser Olympia, the oldest steel warship still floating and Admiral Dewey’s flagship during the Battle of Manila Bay in 1898. Tied up next to it is the submarine USS Becuna launched in 1944 and credited with the sinking of several Japanese ships during the war. Both Olympia and Becuna are registered as National Historic Landmarks and are open for tours.

The next marina up the river is Pier 5, with 110 slips (6 for transients) on floating docks inside a new 128-foot breakwater. Pier 5 does have heads, showers and laundry, and 30- and 50-amp service. It can hold yachts up to 128-feet LOA. Just a stone’s throw farther up the river and immediately north of the Ben Franklin Bridge, the Philadelphia Marine Center is the largest marina in the area, with 338 slips, including 65 for transients. It can handle boats up to 130-feet LOA, and has 30-, 50- and 100-amp service. The Philadelphia Marine Center has heads, showers and laundry and is the only one of the three marinas with pump-out facilities plus gas and diesel fuel docks.

After you’ve tied up the boat, you won’t have to worry about things to do. At Penn’s Landing, the Independence Seaport Museum exhibits show the history of shipbuilding along the Delaware, a boat shop dedicated to traditional boat building and a full-scale replica of a 1700s coastal schooner.

It’s just a short walk to Independence Hall where the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution were both signed. The iconic Liberty Bell is nearby. Its message, “Proclaim Liberty Throughout All the Land Unto All the Inhabitants thereof,” was a rallying cry for abolitionists to end slavery.

The Betsy Ross House built around 1740 is now a museum with period actors and only a five-minute walk away. From there it’s also just a few blocks to Elfreth’s Alley in the heart of the Old City, a street with 32 restored buildings dating from the 1720s to the 1830s; it’s the oldest residential neighborhood in the U.S.

To continue the colonial theme, take a tour bus or rental car 24 miles out to Valley Forge, a national park with 30 miles of trails and picnic areas. A five-mile inner loop includes George Washington’s command center, the troops’ huts, cannon, and parade grounds where the Continental Army trained and suffered during the terrible winter of 1777-78, while the British occupied Philadelphia.

Back in town, the Philadelphia Museum of Art holds 200 galleries spanning 2,000 years. It is one of the most important museums in the world with Italian, Flemish and early Renaissance masterpieces, plus the Impressionists and Post-Impressionists. And if you want to imitate Rocky Balboa, run up the 72 steps leading to the museum.

After all this touring, it’s time to eat. If you’re still in a historic mode, head for the City Tavern near Independence Hall, a replica of a 1773 restaurant where the Founding Fathers gathered. The staff is in colonial costumes, and the menu is devoted to 18th century American food, including sweet potato biscuits (Jefferson’s favorite), turkey potpie and ale made from Washington’s own recipe.

Having lived in Philadelphia for five years, I can state that no trip there is complete without a visit to the Reading Terminal Market in the center of downtown. An urban farmers’ market since 1892, Reading Terminal now has more than 100 merchants in stalls and storefronts, with everything from Amish specialties to artisan cheese and fresh meat.

For another local favorite, take a cab to the Roxborough neighborhood for Philadelphia’s legendary cheese steak at Dalessandro’s Steaks open from 11AM to midnight. Place your order at the counter; everyone from Philadelphia lawyers dressed in suits to construction workers in hardhats eats here. Then for a more traditional dinner, head for Pesto in South Philly, which looks plain on the outside but has delicious southern Italian food on the inside. The portions are large and the staff is friendly.

By Peter A. Janssen, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

PHILADELPHIA CRUISER RESOURCES

DOCKAGE

Penn’s Landing Marina
301 S. Columbus Blvd.
(215) 928-8803; marina@drwc.org

Pier 5 Marina
25 N. Columbus Blvd.
(215) 545-1500; thepiersmarina.com 

Philadelphia Marine Center
235 N. Columbus Blvd.
(215) 931-1000; philamarinecenter.com

ATTRACTIONS

Independence Seaport Museum
211 S. Columbus Blvd.
(215) 413-8655; phillyseaport.org

Independence Hall
520 Chestnut St.
(800) 537-7676; nps.gov/inde

Liberty Bell
6th and Market Streets
(215) 965-2305; nps.gov/inde

Betsy Ross House
239 Arch St.
(215) 629-4026; historicphiladelphia.org

Elfreth’s Alley
126 Elfreth’s Alley
(215) 627-8680; elfrethsalley.org

Philadelphia Museum of Art
2600 Benjamin Franklin Parkway
(215) 763-8100; philamuseum.org

Valley Forge
1400 N. Outer Line Dr.
King of Prussia, PA 19406
(610) 783-1099; nps.gov/vafo

RESTAURANTS

Moshulu
401 S. Columbus Blvd.
(215) 923-2500; moshulu.com

City Tavern
138 S. 2nd St.
(215) 413-1443; citytavern.com

Reading Terminal Market
51 N. 12th St.
(215) 922-2317; readingterminalmarket.org

Dalessandro’s Steaks
600 Wendover St.
(215) 482-5407; dalessandros.com

Pesto
1915 S. Broad St.
(215) 336-8380; ristorantepesto.com

 

Chesapeake Cowboys’ season finale at the Baltimore Yacht Basin

Extreme boat docking will make its debut this month on the western shore at Nick’s Fish House and the Baltimore Yacht Basin. The Chesapeake Cowboys are bringing their season finale boat docking competition to Nick’s and the yacht basin located on the middle branch of the Patapsco River in Port Covington. Boat docking competitions are a 50-year-old sport and family tradition on the eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay, and this event will mark the first competitive docking event on the western shore. Workboats and charter boats compete within their divisions to motor from a designated point before a hard reverse into the dock where pilings are lassoed during a timed competition. The cowboys compete for cash, prizes, trophies, and bragging rights. The festivities kick off at Nick’s on Friday, September 23rd at 6PM, with an official Chesapeake Cowboys Captains’ party. The party will continue at the yacht basin on Saturday, September 24th at noon with live bands, local brews, crab picking, and oyster shucking contests. The docking competition will run through Saturday and concludes with a “Grand Finale Shootout,” where the best of four Captains will compete for the fastest time to be crowned “King of the Bay.” chesapeakecowboysboatdocking.com

More access at Hart-Miller
Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources has opened an additional 300 acres of Hart-Miller Island for recreational purposes such as biking, hiking, camping, and nature watching. Accessible only by boat, the island has more than a half-mile of beachfront open to the public. The south cell of the island will be open and staffed Thursdays through Mondays from 11AM-4PM. The cell contains over eight miles of trails that circle around a large pond and include picturesque views of the Chesapeake Bay. Bike rentals are also available on the island. Located at the mouth of Back River, the 1,100-acre artificial Hart-Miller Island used to be two islands called Hart and Miller. In 1981, Maryland began the creation of what is now Hart-Miller Island by construction of a dike that linked the two islands. The resulting impoundment was filled with material dredged from the Baltimore Harbor, its approach channels and the channels in the upper Chesapeake Bay. Along with the new hiking and biking trails, Hart-Miller Island currently features swimming, wading, sunbathing, picnicking areas, 22 campsites, and an observation tower that offers a bird’s eye view of the beachfront and the bay. dnr2.maryland.gov/publiclands/Pages/central/hartmiller.aspx

Trawlerfest take two
The threat of Hurricane Joaquin forced last year’s Chesapeake Bay Trawlerfest to be canceled as Maryland and Virginia declared a state of emergency. Event organizers will try again this year at the Bay Bridge Marina in Stevensville, Maryland, featuring what should be an impressive array of seminars and boat and trade displays offered in a rendezvous-style format with evening events and activities. This year’s Trawlerfest will run from September 27th through October 1st. Attendees can expect course offerings on such topics as diesel engines, the boat buying process, boat handling, coastal navigation, and cruising the Intracoastal Waterway. baybridgemarina.com/events   

By Christopher Knauss, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

Whatever Floats Your Boat Regatta on Apalachee Bay

Florida State University Coastal and Marine Laboratory is sponsoring the 5th Annual Whatever Floats Your Boat Regatta in Apalachee Bay on Saturday, September 24th. Marine science chronicles unusual sea creatures but nothing quite like the outrageously constructed vessels made of recycled materials that are used in this race. Teams that are up for the challenge design their own vessel and compete in either the sailing or non-sailing categories. Captain and crew sail, row or even scull around the course. Some, however, topple over or slowly sink into the bay, much to the delight of the crowds who gather on the shoreline around the lab and boat basin. The event runs from 12PM-3PM and includes outdoor food, music and fun with an opportunity to teach participants about reducing the environmental impact of plastics and other trash. marinelab.fsu.edu/outreach/regatta

Talk Like a Pirate Day on September 17th
Expect plenty of pirate lingo, backslapping salutations and an eye patch or two on International Talk Like a Pirate Day. While Hallmark probably doesn’t have a large display of greeting cards for this annual event, columnist Dave Barry helped publicize the concept some years ago. Now, dozens of pirate-themed events take place across Florida on the weekend closest to this day every year. The Big Lagoon State Park on the Florida Panhandle hosts this year’s Perdido Key Pirate Festival on Saturday, September 17th. Modern-day mutineers celebrate with entertainment including hands-on activities for kids, family games and a chance to hunt for pirate coins that are redeemable for prizes. One lucky pirate who finds the “Lost Key” will take home a grand prize treasure chest. Big Lagoon is a 705-acre state park located about 10 miles southwest of Pensacola along the ICW. The park has a launch ramp for those who trailer, and several nearby, deep-water marinas are an easy drive away.

Ft. Myers Municipal Marina District expansion
Interested in putting a fresh face on the marina district in downtown Ft. Myers? A private developer is being sought to transform businesses around the municipal marina, attract more retail, expand docks, and add moorings. Mayor Randy Henderson would like to take the expansion plans even further. Henderson, a pilot and avid cruiser, has potential Key West excursions in mind and would like to create an area for seaplane traffic in the marina district. The marina was originally built in 1937 as a Works Progress Administration project under Franklin Roosevelt’s New Deal. In 2016, the marina received a major facelift and now boasts 240 slips that are typically full with a long waiting list for entry. The marina currently allows liveaboards, and this policy is not expected to change. Ft. Myers Municipal continues to be a popular overnight destination for cruisers transiting Florida via the Okeechobee Waterway and is a middle-market boating facility, although it has room for larger yachts. In April, the city selected Mainsail, a Tampa-based hotel operator, to take over completion of the proposed Harborside Hotel—a new 225-room, full-service hotel and parking garage. The marina district, however, remains a separate venture with no particular timeline.

By Alan Wendt, Southern Boating Magazine September 2016

Chicago, Illinois

Carve out a few extra days on your Great Loop adventure to explore Lake Michigan’s Windy City.

Cruisers who complete the Great Loop—the waterway route enabling circumnavigation of the eastern half of the U.S.—build in extra days for unplanned delays but also to explore specific areas on their more than 5,000-mile journey. Some seek out the seclusion of picturesque bays, while others prefer the excitement of cities they’ve never explored. If your Great Loop excursion plans take the traditional counterclockwise route, you’ll exit the Great Lakes region via Lake Michigan to the Chicago River through Chicago, Illinois. Build in several days and even up to a week to explore the “Windy City”. Its appeal may surprise you and even whet your appetite for a return trip though likely not in the winter months.

As you approach the southwest end of Lake Michigan, even from a distance, Chicago’s downtown skyline is striking. The Willis Tower—formerly named but still frequently referred to as the Sears Tower—is the second tallest building in the western hemisphere and easy to spot. The surrounding architecture encompasses a lively urban landscape with the city’s financial district and juxtaposes the many museums, parks and fountains lining the lakefront. Moored at Monroe Harbor, sailboat masts accentuate the view like exclamation points on a cityscape, while colorful sails catch the currents off Lake Michigan; take care as you approach the Windy City for sailing regattas in process. Just north of the mouth of the Chicago River, a Chicago landmark juts out into the lake; Navy Pier was built in 1916 to service freighters on Lake Michigan. Converted in 1941 for military training prior to World War II, Navy Pier was renovated in the early 90s for its current purpose as a recreation center and remains one of the most popular tourist attractions in the Midwest. The ferris wheel was dismantled in 2015, but there are plenty of other attractions for young and old, including a spectacular July 4th fireworks display and summertime music events, many of which are also accompanied by fireworks.

 

For the most part, where you dock is determined by how close you want to be to your favorite activities. The Chicago Harbor System has 10 unique harbors, some of which are along Chicago’s lakeshore and each with its own distinct attributes. All offer transient dockage; several offer boat ramps and trailer parking for those traveling with boats on trailers. Be sure to review the System’s website and make your reservations well in advance, especially for holiday weekends that attract Midwest cruisers from 100 miles away or farther (chicagoharbors.info). An alternative to the large lakeside marinas is Marina City on the Chicago River in the heart of the city’s action. Again, make reservations well in advance for the few transient slips located under the famed steakhouse Smith & Wollensky. This is also a great location to get off the boat for a few nights since the Marina City complex houses Hotel Chicago (an Autograph Collection Hotel). Request a room on one of the upper floors to enjoy a spectacular nighttime view of the city.

Repeat “Loopers” and local cruisers alike are familiar with the wide variety of Chicago’s offerings. Art and history buffs have their pick of museums, many of which are within walking distance from lakefront harbors. Even the most finicky eater will be hard-pressed to find something to complain about when introduced to a Chicago-style deep-dish pizza or a hotdog from a street vendor. They pile dogs high with Chicago-style fixings, sans the ketchup—a faux pas here. For the fashionistas on board, a full day of shopping on “The Magnificent Mile” awaits on a one-mile stretch of Michigan Avenue. If you’re as comfortable with heights as you are on the water, take the elevator ride to the skydeck on the 103rd floor of Willis Tower, but go late in the day to escape the crowds and take advantage of the sunset view (searstower.com).

Sports venues are varied and frequent. For baseball fans, Wrigley Field is a cab-ride away. For football fans or music lovers, Soldier Field (soldierfield.net) is the home field and stadium for the Chicago Bears, hosts many summertime concerts and is conveniently situated close to Burnham Harbor. From Lake Michigan, the marina entrance is at the south end of Northerly Island, with channels and shallow areas well marked. Burnham Harbor’s location also provides walking distance access to the Field Museum, Shedd Aquarium—a family favorite—and the Adler Planetarium. All three are worthy of at least a half- or full-day visit, so plan your time accordingly since there’s so much more to see, including the Chicago Water Tower, one of the few buildings to remain after the Great Chicago Fire of 1871.

In addition to choosing which of the city’s attractions to see, deciding where to eat will likely be your biggest challenge with so many options. Limited space prevents offering a comprehensive list, but seafood lovers won’t want to miss Catch 35 on the south shore of the Chicago River near Trump Tower. Steak lovers must dine at Gene and Georgetti’s, but bring your autograph book and camera. Celebrities and politicians alike have been dining there alongside locals since 1941.

CRUISER RESOURCES

—Dockage and Fuel—
Belmont Harbor
3600 Recreation Drive
(312) 742-7673 • chicagoharbors.info/harbors/belmont
* Family favorite

Burnham Harbor
1559 S. Lake Shore Drive • (312) 747-7009
• chicagoharbors.info/harbors/burnham
* Close to Shedd Aquarium, museums and Soldier Field

DuSable Harbor
111 N. Lake Shore Drive
(312) 742-3577 • chicagoharbors.info/harbors/dusable
* Lakeside, just south of the Chicago River

Marina City
300 N. State Street
(866) 490-5297 x161 • jbys.com/chicago-illinois
* Downtown river location

—Accommodation—
Hotel Chicago (Autograph Collection)
333 N. Dearborn Street
(312) 245-0333
thehotelchicago.com

—Eateries & Attractions—
Catch 35 Seafood & Premium Steaks
35 W. Wacker Drive • (312) 346-3500
catch35.com

Gene and Georgetti’s
500 N. Franklin Street • (312) 527-3718
geneandgeorgetti.com

Harry Caray’s Restaurant Group
8 locations • harrycarays.com 

By Liz Pasch, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

Expansion at Tarpon Point Marina

Additional docks are nearing completion at Tarpon Point Marina adjacent to the Westin Cape Coral Resort at Marina Village in Cape Coral, Florida. Sixteen slips are being added to ‘H’ dock to accommodate larger boats from 65-80 feet. Harbormaster Rick Munson says the additions will bring the total number of slips to over 200. Tarpon Point Marina offers direct access to the Gulf of Mexico via the Caloosahatchee River. The sheltered harbor is surrounded by the Westin Resort, which is home to four restaurants, boutique shops and a pool. The Westin Resort is also breaking ground to add a 40,000-square-foot conference center. tarponpoint.com

Megayacht docking comes to St. Petersburg
Construction is complete on seven megayacht slips at downtown St. Petersburg’s Harborage Marina at Bayboro. Accommodating vessels up to 200 feet in length, the custom engineered concrete floating docks provide fully enclosed power (480 volts), plumbing and built-in pump-out, and the 24-inch stressed concrete pilings are capable of withstanding a 10-foot storm surge. One resident’s 145′ Christensen megayacht I Love This Boat homeports here when not on charter. “This is the only megayacht port on the West Coast of Florida,” notes assistant dockmaster David Dabney.

St. Petersburg has shaken off last century’s moniker as “God’s Waiting Room” and is more than alive with activity, from major league baseball to its three world-class museums: Salvador Dalí Museum, St. Petersburg Museum of Fine Arts and the Dale Chihuly Collection at Morean Arts Center. The waterfront has turned into a foodie haven with highly rated eateries such as the Z Grille, Parkshore Grill and BellaBrava as well as traditional favorites such as Marchand’s at The Vinoy and the nearby Maritana Grille at Loews Don CeSar Hotel. harboragemarina.com

Country on the Coast
Pepsi Gulf Coast Jam, a three-day celebration of sun, fun and country music, will host its 4th annual festival on the shores of Panama City Beach, Florida, on Labor Day weekend, September 2-4. Brad Paisley, Jake Owen, The Band Perry, and Sara Evans are just a handful of the artists headlining this year’s event. gulfcoastjam.com

Suwannee River Marina
For years, the Millers were fixtures at Gulf Coast boat shows. Emblematic agents of the laid-back Suwannee River, Bill and Gloria called this place home with their houseboat and fishing rentals. Recently, the Miller family sold the marina to new owners who renamed it Gateway Marina. Fittingly, the marina is closest to the mouth of the storied river and also the Gulf of Mexico.

Major upgrades are underway, with 24-hour fuel-pay at the pump (ethanol and non-ethanol), new live bait tanks, 30- and 50-amp dockside power, and a more robust ships store. In addition to offering transient slips, Gateway will continue to rent the original fleet of 44-foot houseboats, which are ideal for large groups cruising the river. All onboard appliances and linens are updated, and you can enhance your experience with Gateway’s fishing kayak and paddleboard rentals. Be mindful of the marina’s low depth of 4 feet. gatewaymarina.us

By Alan Wendt, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

Hot competition, cool cruising

There’s something for everyone at this year’s USVI Open/Atlantic Blue Marlin Tournament (ABMT) and MarlinFest set for August 13-19 in St. Thomas, U.S.V.I. For sports fishermen, the tournament boasts a new division for teams wanting to fish by International Game Fish Association (IGFA) rules rather than following the traditional special rules that call for anglers to rotate rods hourly. This later regulation, designed to truly measure the skill and luck of an individual fisherman, makes the 44-year-old ABMT a real man-against-beast competition, earning the title “Super Bowl of Sports Fishing.” “Contestants in the two divisions—team and angler—will face off against each other and compete for the same calcutta, Daily Awards and popular ‘Last Day Shootout’,” says director Jimmy Loveland. “However, only those fishing in the angler division are eligible to have their names engraved on the prestigious Ed Pang-designed ‘Straight Up’ trophy. It’s a really cutting-edge format and we’re proud be the first to launch it.” For spectators, MarlinFest gives fishing aficionados and their friends and family a spectacular menu of activities to enjoy while the fleet competes. There’s a welcome Sunset Party, day trips to the neighboring B.V.I., and a much-anticipated Arts, Crafts and Chowder Challenge, where visitors sample chowders and chefs compete for a top cash prize. abmt.vi

The Carib Great Race 2016
If you love offshore powerboat racing, head to the dual-island Caribbean country of Trinidad and Tobago to watch the Carib Great Race on August 20th. More than 30 racers in eight classes with speeds between 60 and 130 mph take their marks in front of the Trinidad and Tobago Yacht Club (TTYC) in Port of Spain, Trinidad, and travel 115 miles to see the flag fall in Scarborough, Tobago. Plenty of spectator-friendly viewing spots are along the way. In Trinidad, there’s the TTYC and Western Main Road in the Carenage area, and The Bocas is a great spot to watch from the sea. In Tobago, convenient vantage points are from Lowlands, Signal Hill or Bacolet Bay (1960 filming location of Walt Disney’s Swiss Family Robinson). The following festivities in Tobago are akin to a national holiday celebration. Although international competitors are welcome, most teams hail from Trinidad and Tobago. Powerboat-racing popularity surged in the island country from 2008-2012 due to the U.S. economic recession, which posed a unique opportunity for island racers to travel north for secondhand race boats at low prices. Boats set to compete this year include the 48-foot Skater Total Monster, the 50-foot Mystic Paramount and the 50-foot Victory Mr. Solo. “The young crews are getting involved by revamping the boats, which bodes well for powerboating in Trinidad and Tobago. We really hope we’ll see international entrants soon,” says Peter Peake, president of the Trinidad and Tobago Power Boat Association, whose Total Monster is a three-time winner. ttpba.net

New monohull models from The Moorings
Looking for something different in cruising? Check out the Clearwater, Florida-based The Moorings all-new monohull models intended for introduction to the B.V.I., St. Martin, St. Lucia, and Grenada this winter. New models include an ultra-spacious Beneteau-built Moorings 48.4 at all four Caribbean bases and the sophisticatedly styled Moorings 42.1 in St. Lucia and Grenada. moorings.com

By Carol Bareuther, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

Cat Island

Cat has the gin-clear water, beautiful beaches, fishing, and diving you would expect to find in these islands, but it also has some of the best surviving evidence of American Loyalist settlers and many of the most interesting stories and characters you will find anywhere. Traditionally referred to as one of the Out Islands of The Bahamas, Cat Island lies well south and east of the more heavily traveled Abacos. Because of its relative isolation, Cat is less frequented by cruisers and barely touched by tourism. As a result, its unspoiled environment provides a wonderful window into the history and culture of The Bahamas.

Approximately 50 miles long but as little as 1 mile wide in some locations, Cat lies slightly north and east of the Exumas across Exuma Sound. The western waters are shallow banks typically 10-20 feet deep, while the east coast faces the Atlantic Ocean and is bordered by beautiful but dangerous reefs. Cat is easily reachable by boat from Eleuthera, Long Island or the Exumas. Entry onto the banks is typically in the north from the vicinity of Little San Salvador or from the south at Hawksnest Creek.

New Bight
One of the best anchorages at Cat is in the south off of the town of New Bight. New Bight offers a number of services along a nice beachfront. Near the north end of town, a collection of take-out restaurants draws cruisers like a magnet. A variety of traditional Bahamian dishes paired with fish, lobster and conch prepped in imaginative ways make for an excellent lunch or dinner. Hidden Treasures, a unique restaurant where Denise will welcome you like family, serves an outstanding lobster dinner among many other top quality dishes. Next door at Sunshine, another take-out spot, try the conch fritters with a cold beer in the afternoon, or go for the conch salad for a deliciously fresh dinner. These are strictly outdoor dining atmospheres under the palms and casuarinas with your feet in the sand—just what you envisioned!

Rake -n- Scrape Music
Rake -n- scrape is an important part of the traditional folk music of The Bahamas. The key instruments are the accordion or concertina, goombay drum and a crowd favorite, the saw. Traditionally played by scraping with a nail, the saw drives the rhythm and practically defines the sound of rake -n- scrape. Cat Island is a hotbed of rake -n- scrape and the residents are committed to preserving this traditional style. The annual Cat Island Rake And Scrape Festival is held near Arthur’s Town during The Bahama’s Randol Fawkes Labour Day weekend in early June every year. Bands from across The Bahamas perform, and expect to see the Bahamian Quadrille and Heel and Toe Polka dancing that developed on the islands from the mixed African and European heritage.

One of the highlights of a stop at New Bight is the chance to experience rake -n- scrape in its most traditional form. Pompey “Bohog” Johnson is known across The Bahamas and internationally as a legend of rake -n- scrape. Pompey is also known for his band, Bohog and the Rooters. Crystal Smith plays the saw and Cedelle Hunter is on the goatskin drum. Both are in their 20s and are deeply committed to preserving this music. Although their standing joke is that Johnson is 44, Smith claims he’s been 44 for a very long time. The Rooters often perform at Sunshine for the cruisers and tourists when enough boats gather in the anchorage. Seated in the open air, they play and Pompey sings stories telling of life in the islands. bahamas.com/islands/cat

The Hermitage
Father Jerome, born John Hawes in 1876, England, built a small, stone monastery near New Bight. He began his adult life as a well-known creative architect, but quickly felt a calling to the church. He was ordained as a priest in the Church of England in 1903 and was later posted to The Bahamas where he designed the first of many churches, which are still prominent in Clarence Town, Long Island. After a long period of travel and reflection, Hawes chose to convert to Catholicism, became a priest and was sent to Australia, serving as a priest and architect in the Outback for nearly a quarter-century.

Perhaps exhausted by that work, he returned to his beloved Bahamas as Father Jerome. He purchased Como Hill, also known as Mount Alvernia, and built the medieval-style monastery to serve as his home and retreat from the world. This is a place of stark beauty, where the lush landscape and broad views of the sea contrast with the austere structure in which Father Jerome lived out his days. He built the home entirely by hand and on his own at the very top of the hill. Stations of the Cross, each one hand carved by the Father, line the steep stone staircase up the hillside. The unadorned, uncomplicated living and worship spaces are evidence of this man’s unique soul.

If you choose to visit the monastery, you will likely find yourself admiring the panoramic views and wondering about the man who did so much for his parishioners and eventually retired to build and live in this remote spot alone. But once you experience the wonders of Cat Island for yourself, you’ll understand its charm.

Bimini getaway
Labor Day weekend marks Denison’s adventurous Bimini Rendezvous (September 2-5) at Resorts World Bimini. The weekend will offer snorkeling at a plane wreck, stingray excursions, conch cracking competition, water activities at Paradise Beach, a scavenger hunt, wine tasting, yacht hop, casino night, white party, festive dinner parties, and family activities. Learn more at denisonyachtsales.com/bimini.

By Rex Noel, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

Hurricane amnesia

Hurricane season is once again upon us and technically runs from June 1st through November 30th. NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center expects a near-normal season, however, they also warn that current and changing climate signals make predicting this season exceptionally challenging. History shows that our currently dissipating El Niño patterns could potentially lead to the hurricane-friendly conditions of La Niña. “This is a more challenging hurricane season outlook than most because it’s difficult to determine whether there will be reinforcing or competing climate influences on tropical storm development,” explains NOAA’s Climate Prediction Center lead seasonal hurricane forecaster, Gerry Bell, Ph.D. “However, a near-normal prediction for this season suggests we could see more hurricane activity than we’ve seen in the last three years, which were below normal.

Here’s the breakdown of NOAA’s 2016 predictions:

–70 percent likelihood of 10-16 named storms (winds of 39 mph or higher)
–Of the named storms, 4-8 could become hurricanes (winds of 74 mph or higher)
–Of the hurricanes, 1-4 could become major hurricanes (Category 3, 4 or 5, with winds of 111 mph and higher)

One thing is true: It’s been more than 10 years since a hurricane has hit the southeast seaboard, so any 2016 activity could cause more damage than anticipated since communities may not be prepared for a normal season. Many southeast residences seem to have some kind of “hurricane amnesia” due to the lack of hurricanes for so many years, which is particularly concerning. According to NPR member station WJCT reporter Ryan Benk, “A [AAA] survey shows nearly half of Floridians are not actively preparing for hurricanes. And less than a quarter said they won’t evacuate, even if told to.” Those residing along or close to the coast, a population that has grown by nearly 50 percent in the last 40 years, are especially vulnerable to risks posed by hurricanes and storms.
And it’s even more challenging to forecast this season’s progression and potential impact because of La Niña’s unpredictable behavior. “There’s even more information now strongly suggesting that there’s at least a 75-80 percent chance that we will go into a La Niña pattern,” says AccuWeather Atlantic hurricane expert, Dan Kottlowski. “Historically, some hurricane seasons that have followed a transition from El Niño to La Niña have been very active. It’s possible we could flip from one extreme to the other, from below-normal seasons the past three years to an above-normal year in 2016.” If La Niña takes hold this month, it would most likely last through December.

Changes in global atmospheric circulation patterns supplement La Niña and are responsible for weather extremes in certain spots around the world. These weather extremes are routinely contrary to those associated with El Niño. Steve Graham of NASA characterizes La Niña: “These patterns result from colder than normal ocean temperatures inhibiting the formation of rain-producing clouds over the eastern equatorial Pacific region while at the same time enhancing rainfall over the western equatorial Pacific region (Indonesia, Malaysia and northern Australia). These patterns affect the position and intensity (weakening) of jet streams and the behavior of storms outside of the tropics in both the Northern and Southern hemispheres.”

By Alana Schindel, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

All hands on deck

With their new nonprofit status, the Pirate’s Cove Billfish Tournament reduced the entry fees and simplified calcuttas, making the event even more attractive to offshore fishing fans. This year’s tournament takes place August 15-20 and is based at the Pirate’s Cove Marina in Manteo, North Carolina.
Last August, the crew aboard Capt. Rob Mahoney’s Viking 66 Sea I Sea pocketed $175,400 for reeling in 15 billfish overall—releasing 11 white and four blue marlin—throughout the three days of fishing. The 68 Bayliss Uno Mas mounted a serious challenge on the last day with the crew and Capt. Tommy Lynskey releasing 11 billfish, including five on Friday to earn second place honors and a sum of $117,840.
A total of 56 teams and 425 anglers participated for $468,000 in prize money and released 322 billfish during the week, including 239 white marlin, 39 blue marlin, 32 sailfish, and 12 spearfish. Who’s going to take home first place honors this year? pcbgt.com

Ladies only
Participation continues to grow for Bahia Marina’s annual Poor Girls Open, a ladies-only billfish release tournament held August 17-20 that benefits breast cancer research. Last year’s tournament off of Ocean City, Maryland, saw 100 boats with Reel Joy’s winning crew releasing nine fish. Anglers also reeled in wahoo and dolphin as well as a 149-pound tuna caught by Nora Warren on Maverick.
Capt. Steve Harman started the tournament as a way for locals to have a fun, affordable competition while raising money for an important cause. The Poor Girls Open has donated over $100,000 to the American Cancer Society in the last three years alone. Plenty of charter opportunities are available for non boat-owning participants or those not local to the area. bahiamarina.com

What’s out there
End-of-season pricing is typically the best time to find a bargain, and if you’re looking to buy, “The Tar Heel State” is holding a couple of solid events to see what’s on the market this month. More than a dozen marine dealers representing over 40 manufacturers will display remaining 2015 and new 2016 models at the Carolina Fall Boat Show & Sale at the North Carolina State Fairgrounds in Raleigh, August 19-21. Admission for all three days costs $7. The following week (August 26-28) brings the Charlotte Convention Center’s first Mid-Atlantic Fall Boat & RV Show and Sale, where attendees may preview 2017 models and browse a full lineup of family sport boats and personal watercraft for sale. ncboatshows.com

A holiday on the bay
Australia-based Mariner Boating Holidays will cruise the Chesapeake Bay waters August 20-September 2. Setting sail from Annapolis, the itinerary mostly features stops on the eastern shore of Maryland and ends with a leisure day in Baltimore followed by a peaceful night at anchor on the Magothy River.
The company has held two yacht rallies so far this year: one amid the French Riviera and the other traversing Sweden. Next year’s planned rallies include visits to Cuba, Croatia and Greece among other compelling destinations. The key qualification for joining the rally is “a desire to see yourself on the deck of a sailboat in one of the world’s great travel destinations.” marinerboating.com

By Christopher Knauss, Southern Boating Magazine August 2016

Crude oil leak in the Gulf of Mexico

A Shell subsea wellhead flow line—underwater oil well connecting to a pipe line that transports oil to the surface—about 90 miles off the coast of Louisiana released about 88,200 gallons of crude oil into the Gulf of Mexico on May 12th of this year. The spill created a 2- by 13-mile sheen that was initially detected by a Shell company helicopter. The U.S. Coast Guard and Shell quickly dispatched numerous vessels to contain the leak and clean up oil that could be skimmed from the water’s surface.
Shell reportedly located the source of the leak (flow line) via a remotely operated vehicle that was sent to the sea floor to investigate. The Bureau of Safety and Environmental Enforcement (BSEE) says they intend to review the repair plans set by Shell, and the agency would also assess if subsea infrastructure technology improvements should be made in response to the incident. Environmental groups responded by stating that this is yet another example of why offshore drilling should be banned, and more than 1,200 activists marched in Washington, D.C., on Sunday, May 15th, in protest of the Obama administration’s offshore drilling plan. Shell has ceased drilling and production at the site until further examinations are complete.

Louisiana garners largest chunk of BP settlement

Coastal communities bordering the Gulf of Mexico including Louisiana’s entire 400-mile coastline were devastated from the effects of the 2010 Deepwater Horizon oil spill. Louisiana garnered the largest chunk of the funds generated by the legal settlement with BP. In April, Louisiana’s Coastal Protection and Restoration Authority (CPRA) announced that it is set to receive at least $6.8 billion out of the estimated $20 billion for which BP is on the hook. When you combine that with sums received from previous legal settlements related to the Deepwater Horizon catastrophe, the state’s coffers stand to swell by $8.7 billion, however, BP will have 15 years to pay out the funds beginning in 2017 and continuing through 2031.
“The finalization of the settlement provides certainty regarding the timing and availability of funding needed to move forward with significant recovery efforts,” says Johnny Bradberry, the governor’s executive assistant for coastal activities. “We will continue working with the utmost sense of urgency and engaging with our federal partners and the public to get critical projects on the ground as quickly as possible.”
One of those projects is the Louisiana Marine Fisheries Enhancement, Research, and Science Center (“the Center”), a $22 million endeavor that stands to benefit recreational fishermen in the state. The Center will consist of two separate facilities, and according to the CPRA’s project description, the Center aims to focus on creating aquaculture-based techniques for marine fishery management, with the end goal being more effective long-term monitoring of popular sport fish and baitfish species.
Plans for the Center also call for the creation of living laboratories to provide educational activities for those in Louisiana concerned about marine sport fish species health. The Center’s primary facility, the Calcasieu Parish site, plans to house a pond complex, hatchery, visitor center, and staff office space. The Plaquemines Parish site plans to focus on research about popular baitfish species in Louisiana and other Gulf states, such as gulf killifish and Atlantic croaker.
Coastal restoration projects like the Center require manpower to help get them up and running, and the massive BP settlement offers a unique opportunity to recruit and train workers for new careers. Divers and ship captains may provide the potential to improve individual economic wellbeing while getting them involved in activities that ensure their communities remain viable and resilient for generations to come. Organizations like Oxfam America are working with local agencies from a range of industries in Louisiana to “create pathways for disadvantaged and unemployed workers to gain new skills and build new careers in this booming new restoration economy.” dwhprojecttracker.org

By Del Gillis, Southern Boating Magazine July 2016

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